More Matshita 857 Madness

I've never had luck with my MB with Matshita UJ-857. I've destroyed about 25 DVD-R's and even when I do have a good burn, the verify always says that it has failed verification. Now that was for a DVD video, so maybe the errors are just blips on the TV.
Most of the time, my MB just spits the disc back out. I've tried three or four different brands with the same results. 1800 APL CARE. Told me to reinstall my OS. Eventually I did - to no avail. I've been putting up with this crap drive for 9 months and I'm finally tired of it. Does anyone know anything about this?

Go here if it doesn't show up in your software update.
Please let us know if the software update solves/reduces your problem. I'm very curious to see how effective it is, since many people I know are having the same problem.

Similar Messages

I cannot send emails, only receive, after upgrade to Yosemite today, Apple should resolve this issue. Any help more than welcome. Thanks in response to Pita Fito I have contacted three more people that made the upgrade and they have the same problem

I cannot send emails, only receive, after upgrade to Yosemite today, Apple should resolve this issue. Any help more than welcome. Thanks
in response to Pita Fito
I have contacted three more people that made the upgrade and they have the same problem. My advise is not to upgrade until Apple solves the serious issue, I would hate to have to re-install Outlook...

I can send e-mails just fine with apple mail on yosemite...
Might not be a generic problem but rather a personal problem..
You should try find a fix rather than waiting on apple.
Hopefully somebody can help you out.
More than happy to help with your settings/preference pain... And compare mine with yours...
If you send some screenshots... I can send you my equivalent... So maybe you can figure it out.
Is it a gmail or icloud email acount? Can be of more help if it is.

No more need for "Made with Macromedia"!

I noticed on the macromedia site that the "Made with
Macromedia" program does not apply to Director MX 2004. (
See
Here) Have I been using it this whole time when I didn't have
to?
Also, what is in store with Adobe now? Are they going to
treat this differently in any way?
Thanks.
Shane

>>Have I been using it this whole time when I didn't
have to?
Yup. Though it's always nice to promote Director.
As for Adobe changing anything... who knows.
Dave -
Adobe Community Expert
www.blurredistinction.com
www.macromedia.com/support/forums/team_macromedia/

More Media Mgr Madness (semi-long non-rant)

I have a 2 minute DV project that contains six nested sequences.
Each of the nests is 12 seconds.
The upstream nests themselves are a bit longer, 30 seconds, but each is marked with in and out points.
The nests are complicated sequences but they are edited and rendered. (I have not exported reference copies of the nests because that completely destroys the ability to make upstream changes.)
The entire project has about 20 gigs of source media but the finished 2-minute piece points directly to less than 1 gig of trimmed media, including the AE and Motion Animation media.
I want to use Media Mgr to make a protection copy of the media used by this project. I want to only copy the actual, trimmed media in use. No matter what I do with MM, the copy is more than 10 gigs. The MM folder contains every complete piece of media included in all of the nests. There are even several clips that are not used anywhere. They are older versions of AE and Motion clips that have been revised and replaced but they still are seen by MM.
I have tried setting up MM in every way I can imagine, And I've been at this for a couple of days. I end up merely and meekly accepting the obese copy.
Rhetorical Question: "Is there no way to get what I want out of MM?"
bogiesan

David,
Like Brian, I don't use MM very much. I've been lucky with my limited use, probably because I have avoided using it whenever I have speed changes or nests, which of course is most of the time. <grin> <sigh>
I have a sledgehammer back up stategy, which you will probably hate, and probably already thought of while gritting your teeth and staring at the ten GB figure in MM.
Duplicate your two minute piece.
Delete the transitions on your duplicate.
Trim each transition, adding handles of whatever length you want to the front and back of each clip or nest.
Export the result as a self-contained Quicktime.
As I said, it is the sledgehammer approach. Its only merits are that it will do what you need and avoid the MM.
Tom

Podcast app doesn't work with iTunes this made me want back to 5.1.1

Apple may want to make podcast more popout. they made a NEW app "podcasts"
but I start to hate apple to do this just like the iOS 6 maps.
the new Podcasts app is desinged to be work alone (without iTunes)
it can download subscribe find, ok that's cool but it just won't work with iTunes. maybe apple have data shows more people are iDevice centered.
But I'm an iTunes centered user. I use iTunes to search subscribe download and DELETE Podcast that I've watched. and I LOVE THIS WAY! I DON"T WANT MY PHONE TO Manage or store podcasts!
back to iOS 5. every moming, I sync my iPhone with my iTunes, 1 new unplayed podcasts from every show was synced to my iPhone. and I play them on the way to my company.
at night I watch some other shows on my mac. them sync with iPhone. all played podcasts will not remain on iPhone, and marked as played in iTunes and ready to be deleted. iTunes only keep 4 episodes. all things is automatic. but iOS 6 Changes everything. It won't works with iTunes, and music can't play podcasts anymore. I have to Manually subscribe on iPhone again! and Manualy delete on iPhone and Manualy delete on iTunes.
THIS IS TOTOALLY Unacceptable... for me. My phone or iPad have very limited spaces, and 3G data plan.
Use iTunes means, no 3G needed, download only once!
Use Podcast app and sync over iCould means 3G data and download as the same number as yours devices. for me I have to download a same show for 3 times.
I Hope there is some way that can make the old music app back.

I agree, i tried to do what i always do at my office today on my ipod touch, connect to the wifi at the end of the day to download new podcast episodes for my subway ride home, and instead, iTunes with the ios6 update installed yesterday won't let me do that, it tells me i need the new Podcasts app, fine, i go install it, and then when i go back to music, it tells me my podcasts are moved, i go to the new app, so over i go. The new app is slow, crashes twice trying to get into it, i can't see any way to make a playlist, i managed to download some new episodes, but can't see how to make a playlist still. I found out how to delete it (and doing so brought back Podcasts and my podcast playlist to the music app, huzzah!!)
The Podcasts app is not the quality i want from Apple. I like my ipod, i really do, but it seems Apple is convinced that whenever they make a change they think will make things better, they delete old ways of doing things that work for us, the real people in the world using their devices. I like the notion of a stand alone app for finding and downloading podcasts, but why does that necessitate removing them from the music app to play since primarily i download all my new podcasts at night, listen to some on my computer while working at home, put them in an itunes playlist in the order i want to listen to them, then sync each morning with my PC to have whatever i haven't listened to in a playlist so it can play all day at work while i'm there.
Hopefully Apple can learn from this and the ongoing Maps debacle to maybe not be so quick to tell their users how we have to use the devices, and instead spend some time listening to how we use the devices to make our experience better rather than enforcing how they want it used on us.

Numbers Line Graph is more annoying than Miley Cyrus

Hello and thanks for taking time to read and answer my question. So I have a science fair project coming up and numbers is being very annoying. My experiment is testing the affect of temperature on the effectiveness of magnets. My table looks like this:
Magnet 1
Magnet 2
Magnet 3
Magnet 4
Magnet 5
Average
74 Degrees
40g
42g
50g
27g
38g
39.4
200 Degrees
28g
25g
35g
46g
38g
34.4
250 Degrees
62g
39g
10g
53g
29g
38.6
300 Degrees
34g
19g
36g
23g
41g
30.6
350 Degrees
26g
21g
17g
36g
37g
27.4
All I want to do is make a simple line graph that will show the correlation (or lack of one) However, when I try to make it into a graph, I keep either getting no lines at all or only the line for the average. Why is this? What am I doing wrong? Help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much,
Colton
I'm using numbers 3.1 by the way.

Hi Colton,
"I keep either getting no lines at all or only the line for the average. Why is this? "
It's because the column labeled Average is the only one containing numbers. Appending the g or " Degrees" forces Numbers to regard the values in the other columns as Text, which has no numerical value, and can't be graphed.
With the text stripped from those numerical values you can produce either of these two graphs. See the notes below regrding the major differences.
Scatter chart with connected points
Line chart
Cosmetically, the line graph appears with thicker lines connecting the data points, and with all symbols set to open circles. I thickened the connecting lines on the scatter chart to make them more visible, and made the Average line about 40% thicker than the others. No changes were made to the lines on the line chart.
The legend for both (Magnet 1, Magnet 2, etc.) appears as a horizontal line (or lines) of text. Selecting the box, then dragging either handle toward the other forces the labels into a vertical stack, which can then be moved to a visually better position.
The main functional difference between the two types is in the purpose of the X axis.
In the scatter chart, both X and Y axes are Value axes—the position of each data point is determined vertically by its Y value and horizontally by its X value.
The Line chart is a Category chart. Category charts have one Value axis (here the Y axis) and one Category axis (here the X axis). Categories are equally spaced along the Category axis, and the data points' vertical position(in this example) is determined by the Y value of the point.
In your case, the difference can be seen in the (horizontal) distance between the first two samples in each series compared to the (horizontal) distance between other ajacent pairs in the same series. In the Line chart, these distances are all the same. In the Scatter chart the first pair (74° and 200°) are more widely separated than the others (each 50° higher than the temperature before it).
In cases where you are trying to show a relationship (or lack of relationship) between two sets of values (speed vs braking distance, temperature vs volume, etc.) a scatter chart usually gives a better representation.
Practical note: Values must be placed in non-Header rows and columns. Labels, including Category labels, must be placed in Header Rows or Header columns to be picked up by the chart. The formatting of the pasted data in your initial post indicates the temperatures are in a Header column. The column labels are (and should be) in a Header row.
Good luck with your project!
Regards,
Barry
PS: You might want to check the meanings of "affect" and "effect" before commiting yourself to either on your display and in your report.
PPS to Yellowbox: HI Ian. Looks like you got started earlier and/or wrote faster thn I did! Something odd happened in the example in your first post. The category labels have been offset one cata set to the right, and there's no 350.
B

Where's the savings or more date for Shared Everthing Plans

I see today Verizon started the Everything More Plans and made this big deal about customers are suppose to receive a plan discount or extra data usage. As of today I have not seen any changes to my account and I'm just wondering do we not fall into a category to receive these discount? I have the Share Everything with 2 lines of service,so I'm guess i don't qualify or do I? I hope this is not Verizon's answer to Att and T-Moblie if so this is bad.

It is an answer to the other Networks, and to the good number of customers who left for cheaper pastures.
For me is will be a good deal, but I have to ask for it to change and so will you.
If you go to Verizon's home page and explore the new plan you may find it is a good deal, or no big deal for you.
In my case, I have 4 smart phones and one basic using 10 gb of data. By moving to the more everything plan with Edge, I save $100 a month, $20 on each line.
I need to upgrade one phone at $29 a month, but it's still a good deal.
If I move to AT& T I would have to buy all new phones and the plan is about the same price as Verizon's more everything plan.

IPod Classic screen-more durable?

The reviews I'm reading seem to contradict each other. Some say that the new Classic screens are made of the same kind of glass (durability-wise) as the iPhone, and some are saying they're just as scratch-prone as the 5th gens were. Anyone know for sure? Obviously I am NOT going to test this, after dropping $335 bucks on this thing. (Thank goodness for the iPod recycling program! 10% discount ftw!)
Sure would be nice not to have to get a case for this new 160GB Classic. I love iSkin, but a) they don't have a skin specifically for the new Classics yet, and b) I want my new silvery iPod to be shown in all its glory!
Message was edited by: Daniel Skatter

I see. Not bad, the deal you got then. Not bad at all. And if you'd rather not put anything on your iPod, then you'd rather only keep it until the next generation, I'm assuming? It will surely, with normal use, take some lumps. I'd say the screen isn't made to be as durable as the iPod touch or iPhone simply understanding the way Apple thinks. First, the screen on the iPone is made to withstand a lot of traffic, what with it being a touch screen and all. Second, the screen is the big deal with the iPhone, it's bigger, and is made to display. The iPod Classic is more or less made to play your music. Therefore, Apple could cut costs by simply only using an adequate screen. It won't have the traffic of the iPhone because, theoretically, there's no need to actually ever touch it, right? Also, the screen is smaller and the video and photo capabilities is, for the most part, just a novelty. Anyways, I'd be very careful with the carefree liberties you intend on taking with your new device. I can understand the intention to not put anything on it, and I can understand that in a couple months, you probably wouldn't even care about the scratches it has anyways. Eh, it's all relative, actually. I'd say there's no way you'll keep this thing for the duration of its life (say 3 years) without scratching the screen if you don't protect it with a film. My opinion.

More than one iphoto account

how can I open a different iphoto account on my Mac? I need to order more photo books made from the other account.

your question is not clear - there is no such thing as an "iPhoto account"
Do you have multiple iPhoto libraries? If so you switch iPhoto libraries by depressing the option key and launching iPhoto and using the select library command
Or are you talking about accounts on your Mac? If so you log off of one and onto the other and use it.
What exactly are you trying to do?
LN

Which Superdrive is more reliable?

I'm having my defective Pioneer superdrive replaced in my new iMac. I have a choice of two drives according to AppleCare. I'm guessing it's between the Pioneer and Matshita. Does anyone know which is likely to be more reliable? Thanks,
Bill

No idea which is more reliable, but the Pioneer is relatively new,
and there are far more Matshitas in the iMac installed base. So,
the Matshita might be a little safer WRT potential driver "issues."
BTW, Matshita is short for Matsushita Electric Industrial Co. Ltd.,
also known as Matsushita-Kotobuki Electronics Industries Ltd...
...a.k.a. [Panasonic|http://www.panasonic.com/industrial/computer/storage/optical/models/UJ85JB.asp] !
[_''It's spelt +Raymond Luxury Yacht+, but pronounced +Throatwarbler Mangrove+.''_|http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tyQvjKqXA0Y]
Looby

Extra Channels - constant "You have lost connectio...

The Extra Channels are now driving me and my Mrs (her more than me) mad. From getting a very rare and occasional "you have lost connection" message and frozen screen, I am now getting this error cropping up almost every 10 minutes.
My setup (now) is:
Infinity 2, 76 down, 17 up. Has been like this and 100% stable since installation in March.
Vision box connected by long ethernet cable (about 20m) to port 1 on the HH3
8-port Gigabit Switch connected to port 4 on the HH3
Wifi not enabled on HH3 - using Apple Airport Extreme/Time Capsule to use 5Ghz
TV/DVD in lounge and TV/WD box in bedroom connected to the Gigabit switch via Netgear Powerline
I originally had my Vision+ box connected to the switch via Powerline, but about 3 weeks ago (when this issue really raised its ugly head) my vision+ box threw up a message saying it was no longer connected to the internet, check connections, blah blah. Checking on the HH3 showed that the box indeed wasn't connected. Power cycling the box, HH3 and the Powerlines wouldn't remedy the situation, even though everything else was working 100% - TV would connect and stream Netflix, BBC iPlayer etc. So in desperation, I laid in a 20m ethernet from the Vision+ to the HH3. Initially, it still wouldn't connect, but after another couple of HH3 and Vision+ reboots, it connected and all was well - well, sort of.
From that point on, the "You've lost connection to this channel (VMC011) errors have been getting worse, until yesterday, you could barely watch a programme without the damned thing dropping out.
So, contacted Vision+ support in India - do all the usual stuff off his script, but it still hasn't resolved, so he said he'd escallate to 2nd line and they'd phone me today. No call (real surprise there).
So, call back, again have to do all the usual - power off the VDSL modem, HH3, Vision+, back on etc. He then claimed he'd 'reset' the service from his end and 99.9% sure that would 'cure' the problem. Well, guess what - it hasn't.
Since my call to India at 2pm, I have had disconnections at 14:26, 14:51, 15:16, 15:34 and now just at 16:06.
No amount of 'force resync' gets it working, nor does changing channel. The only thing I can do is to wait for the stream to restart, and it usually does with lots of pixellated/garbage picture for about 10 seconds or so before it clears and is watchable again. This 'outage' lasts between 2 minutes and 8 minutes.
Whilst this is happening, there is no continual stream of data on the LAN1 led on the VDSL modem - just the occasional short burst of data, which is coming from the Vision+ box as if I unplug it from port 1, this 'polling' stops.
This is going to be a nightmare once the sport starts - but I'm now getting aggro from my Mrs (who is recovering from Cancer treatment so tends to watch quite a bit of 'her' telly) as she quite rightly feels we are paying for a service we are barely getting. Because of the long and unweildy cable, I'm stumping up £120 or whatever to have my master socket/VDSL modem/HH3 moved adjacent to the TV as this was initially suggested as a fix, and BT are coming out Monday (supposedly) to do this work. But I can't believe this will effect a cure as I can happily watch Netflix or iPlayer without any issues whilst the Vision+ box is dropping it's stream.
I cannot believe this is the 'standard' of service that most subscribers are getting - and I believe this is an exchange or equipment issue, but all India seem capable of doing is reading dummy instructions from their script and 'resetting' the service (whatever that means) - it needs an engineer in the exchange with a data monitor to see what is going on.
Problem as I see it is that on our FTTC cab, there are not many subscribers (yet - I was No. 2 and an Openreach engineer was No. 1) and from what I understand, no other Vision+ subscribers, though that will probably change when Sport is activated. So because of this I doubt that BT are getting any other complaints.
The cynic in me thinks that the new HH4 is being released to cater for all the 'new' BT Sport subscribers as there is an issue with the HH3. Wonder if the HH3 is just not up to handling the multicast stream properly?
Anyone got any sure fire methods of escallating this?

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I bought an Apple TV two days ago for a lg tv. We had a blue ray player on one HDTV connection. It was working fine. Unhooked that plugged in the apple and ... Nothing. No Signal. The on light illuminates all cords tight. Do I take it back to store?

I bought an Apple TV two days ago. Followed instructions to hook up and light is on on box. Unplugged working HDTV connection on tv -it has two more unused - and made final Apple TV HDTV connect to tv tight. Flip over from cable and... no signal! Everything else fine blue ray back to same port and works fine. Do I take this back to store for replacement? Might be new cord or Apple TV,
. Tried other ports on tv with no success. Thanks for any suggestions. Oh yes, mountain lion on air up to date on iPad and iPad min...

I would test it with the tv of friends and or relatives to verify it was broken
(I would do that with all such devices before taking them back)

Best way to organize photos and home video

Looking for the optimum way to organize photos and home videos. Goal is to have all devices have equal access to all the media. Just as important is for this to be as easy as possible to maintain and use.
Have an iMac with iTunes and iPhoto
Have multiple iOS devices with different family members each of whom take photos and videos with their devices
Have multiple Apple TVs
iMac will be the hub with wifi synching
Right now about 30,000 files probably 1000 are videos (and growing)
I don't do any editing of photos or videos
Current set up is through iPhoto. I am importing all images not using the reference option. This worked fine until we started taking more videos which made for a large 200gb iPhoto library which barely loads even with 16gb ram.
I want to use iPhoto not iTunes because I keep everything organized by event, that includes photos and videos. And I don't want 2 separate organizing options to keep track of.
Most of my library is also available outside of iPhoto, I have a back up so I could use the reference feature of iPhoto which would mean a smaller library. However we use photostream on all iOS devices which has the feature that automatically imports into iPhoto. So I don't have to worry about those photos - it's easy. But then i would have some media copied into the library and some referenced. This doesn't work for videos so I will need to copy them.
I have a copy of iPhoto library manager software which could solve the excessive library size. That's cumbersome because I have to sync the correct library with the iOS devices and also make sure photostream is In the right library. I have only used this software a little so I could be wrong about this solution.
I appreciate any ideas that might work. Of course let me know if I am missing something, I am sure I am.
Would Aperture be a better solution? Some other software?

1 - do not change to a referenced library with iPhoto - it has many problems and should not be done - if you switch to Aperture it is ok - Aperture handles referenced libraries fine
2 - iPhoto does not load your entire library and while 200 GB is large it is not giant and is not causing you an problems - if you ave problems please describe them and will try to help with thme -it is not libary size - My library is 263 GB and I have 8GB of RAM and there are no issues
3 - not sure what your constraints are but for me having all IOS devices logged into iCoud using the same Apple ID work best - the downside is that we all see the same things - which is our desire and I think yours
LN

I REGRET OVERCLOCKING!

Today is the saddest day in my life.
My Barton 3000+ processor has died on me yesterday night when I was trying to overclock it.
This is what I did:
1) I set the multi at 11 and raised the FSB to 200MHz, saved settings and exit.
--System didn't post at all--
2) Cleared the Cmos.
3) Repeated step one but I increased the Vcore to 1.75. Saved changes and exit.
--System won't post again--
4) Cleared Cmos.
5) System won't post (bad sign).
6) I've swaped memory modules and it work.
7) Set modules to dual channel mode again before attempting any overclock.
8) I set the multi at its default speed (13). Set the FSB to 166MHz. Saved changes.
--System worked well--
9) I increased the FSB by a factor of two increments (e.g: 166-168-170...). Maximum overclock achieved was 182MHz without increasing the Vcore. Save changes.
10) --System worked well at @2366MHz.
10) Increasing the FSB to more than 184MHz made system unstable.
11) Cleared Cmos.
12) I've set the FSB to 184MHz and increased the Vcore to 1.75. Saved changes.
13) --System won't post--
14) cleared Cmos.
14) --System still won't post--
15) I swapped the memory modules and only used one stick in ALL banks.
16) --System still won't post--
17) I'm starting to get desperate.
18) After playing around with the memory modules, in a sudden the system is working.
19) I've started to suspect that the mobo was damage.
20) Went to BIOS and this time I've set the multi at 10 and the FSB at 200 (I wanted to make the processor run synchronously with ram). saved changes.
21) --System won't post.--
22) Cleared Cmos.
21) System is working, but the weird thing of all is that after setting the multi at 10 and the FSB at 166MHz (Processor's default FSB). I saved the changes to Cmos but the mobo reports the processor speed at 2166MHz instead of "1660" (10x166).
22) I increased the FSB to 170MHz and the mobo is reporting processor speed at @2210MHz instead of @1700MHz.
23) I'm suspecting that the multi is not working on the processor or the the mobo is faulty.
23) Did the same steps from above but using 11 multi instead of 10.
24) Same damn problem.
25) I've set the multi at 11, increased the FSB to 200MHz and increased the Vcore from from its default 1.65v to 1.80v. Saved changes.
26) --System won't post--
27) cleared Cmos.
28) System won't post.
29) I'm starting to pray asking the Lord to help me on this one.
30) --System still won't post--
31) I'm getting desperate. Don't know what to do since I've swapped memory modules to see if the trick worked but it didn't.
32) Went to sleep. (I couldn't)
33) Next day I went to a retail shop to test the machine with a next processor.
34) Their processor works flawlessly in my mobo.
35) Now, I'm f*cked up.
I used a good power supply, a good pair of memory modules .
Some one suggested me to increase the FSB to 200 and lower the multi at 11 just to start with. The problem I found is that system won't post even decreasing the multi at 10.
If any one is asking which type of cooler I had, well, I was using a Thermal Take Volcano with good silver-based thermal paste (is not AS-5, but it does the work well).
What went wrong????
Can any one give me a clue???

Quote
did you monitor the temp?
Yes I did. In deed, processor temp never went beyond 47ºc.
Quote
18)=Check your ram.
Ram is OK. I tested both on another mobo and they're fine.
Now I have to live with a burned-up processor for the rest of my life.
Next time I won't overclock in my life no matter if the processor has unlocked multipliers. I'm traumatized for life.

SOLVED! HP Officejet 6500A E710 will not stay connected to the network. scanner not connected

After 5 hours of live remote HP tech support, and 10 more hours of web searching, I am happy to say I have solved the wireless network connection issue with scanning and printing using the HP Officejet 6500A E710n-z. I notice that there are a lot of people with similar issues with no common, successful fix. Here is what worked for me.
Background Info:
Upgraded internet service from 9Mbps to 27Mbps...Provider brought out new Arris DG860 modem/router. Configured network and connected all clients (smart phones, PCs, Tablets, etc) successfully accept the printer. With this new router/modem the printer/scanner/fax would not connect to my PC at all (Windows 7 64-bit). The Officejet was always connected to the network, however, anytime I tried to print I would get an error "Unable to connect to the printer...", and when I made an attempt to scan.."Scanner not connected, make sure it is connected to the network..." blah blah blah.
Process:
After searching the web for solutions with no success, I finally made my first call to HP tech support. Tech tried numerous fixes: many network changes (channel, static IP, etc.), made changes to Windows system settings and registry, installed new software and drivers, ran the scan doctor, partial, semi, and full reset on the printer. He changed my wifi channel to 6 (or 11) from AUTO and whola. That seemed to fix the problem. After hanging up the phone 10 minutes later "No connection" errors again. Made a second call to HP Tech Support, and this new tech basically tried all the same fixes as the first tech. Worked again for 10-15 minutes then disconnected. Made third call to tech and this individual tried the same fixes as the previous two, but to no avail. He said he would have to direct me to a more Advanced Technician and would call back tomorrow. They called back the next day, and this new tech fixed the issue within 20 minutes.
Problem/Solution:
The fourth "more advanced" tech made one change in my network configuration settings. He changed my network mode from B/G/N to B/G and now the printer/scanner/fax stays connected and works like brand new. The only problem is that all my devices (including the Officejet) are 802.11N capable. Setting my network to the old B/G mixed mode slows my speed down just a bit. Using B/G/N mode or N, my download speed is 27 Mbps. On B/G mixed my speed is 25Mbps. Not too big of a deal, though. All the HP Support Techs were very nice and helpfull. They refunded my $25 Tech fee [fee charged when product is out of warranty] because the problem is not "technically" solved, even though it does work. Conclusio: This seems to be an issue with my the modem/router provided by my ISP. Could also be that it is an older Officejet and need to upgrade. To Fix Follow the Steps Below:
Step 1: Find your default gateway IP...usuall 192.168.0.1 or 192.168.1.1 or similar. Type this IP into your web address bar and hit enter.
Step 2: Enter the username and password. This is normally set at factory default --> username: admin ....passowrd: password .... or .... admin
Step 3: Go to the "Wireless Setup" tab and under the "Advanced Options" and "Wireless Network Settings" change the "Wireless Mode" to "B/G mixed".
Step 4: Click "Apply" then close the browser.
You may, or may not, lose your wifi connection for a short period while the new settings are applied and you may, or may not, have to power cycle your modem/router. That's it. Worked for me and I hope it works for you too. If you have any questions or comments please feel free to post.

OK, that all sounds right. Here are a few more router config ideas:
1. Make sure that 802.11g mode is available, along with others is OK, but 'g' must be present.
2. Change the channel to 11.
3. Use WPA or WPA/WPA2 encryption, not WPA2 only.
Say thanks by clicking "Kudos" "thumbs up" in the post that helped you.
I am employed by HP

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