More on split-toning

Hi all,
I understand the use of the split tone (ST) controls in LR (1.3.1) but need some assistance with finding appropriate starting points for the hues. The reason is that I am colour blind and find it difficult to see the colour I am selecting on the narrow little sliders.
I suppose part of this is that rather than using ST hues that appeal to my senses I am trying to emulate more conventional darkroom based things. Yes I do understand that this is fraught with all sorts of hazards and depends very much on the chemicals, immersion times, paper etc used. (One only has to pick up Tim Rudman's
i The Photographer's Master Printing Course
to appreciate that.
What I am looking for is some starting H&S values.
I am aware that sepia, selenium, platinum are available (supplied by Adobe and from Lightroom Extra), but to my eyes the LR supplied selenium tone is nothing like selenium darkroom prints I have seen in the above book or elsewhere.
While I am talking about the selenium preset, I notice that it also changes the white balance and grey scale mixes along with the tone curve. I can understand why it does so but how does one choose where to start when one's colour discrimination is stuffed (that's a technical term by the way,
I have tried matching some of the effects using the ST panel and the colour-picker tool on my Mac but then have to battle with differing device colour profiles etc.
I also have PSElements so perhaps this may be a better place to do it, but I was hoping to stick to LR if possible.
So any suggestions gladly accepted.
Andrew.

One hint, would be to hold the Alt key while adjusting the sliders. This allows you to see the effects you are making to the whole image, rather than trying to view the tiny hint in the slider.
I do not do split toning, so I cannot speak further or more intelligently on this subject.
Steve

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            'com.robcole.lightroom.metadata.DevMeta.brushes',
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            {"com.adobe.label", label="RC Exif Meta" },
            'com.robcole.develop.ExifMeta.lastUpdate',
            'com.adobe.separator',
            { 'com.adobe.label', label = 'SubIFD1' },
            'com.robcole.develop.ExifMeta.SubIFD1_BitsPerSample',
            'com.adobe.separator',
            { formatter = 'com.robcole.develop.ExifMeta.bigBlock', topLabel=true },
            --   N X   T O O
            'com.adobe.separator',
            -- { "com.adobe.label", label = "RC Nx Too" }, -- The label is automatic when * is used.
            'com.robcole.lightroom.NxToo.*',
    PS - Lemmeno if you want more details...
    Rob

  • Strange colour cast in LR3 with Canon G11 RAW

    Hi all,
    I recently bought Lightroom 3 to work with the RAW output from my Canon G11. The majority of the shots want to process are taken underwater around the UK coast. I'm having an issue with colour casts which I hope someone may be able to shed some light on.
    With these underwater shots LR3 seems to import them with a very strong green colour cast, even though, when diving, I set the manual white balance at regular intervals. By comparison, Canon DPP imports the RAW files correctly (what I consider correct), and I get the same correct results with Raw Therapee, GIMP and Capture 1. PhotoShop Elements gives the same results as LR3, but I assume they both use ACR 6.1.
    I would expect Canon DPP to be correct as it is processing it's own RAW files, but as the other RAW converters match the Canon output, I get the feeling that my problem is with LR3, or possibly ACR. I've scanned both the Adobe LR forum and ACR forum, but can not see any posts where people are having similar issues to me. I did find several post's saying that LR3's support of the Canon G11 was now finished, maybe it has just been tuned for land based shots, not underwater.
    I have tried using Adobe DNG Converter, to no avail, and I have also tried all the white balance pre-sets within LR3. Even the custom white balance picker does not give sensible results, it just changes the shots to a slightly different shade of green.
    Playing around with other setting in LR3 can make slight improvements, but it's a slow, shot by shot process, and still does not produce a usable finished product, or even a reasonable starting point for fine tuning.
    I have found that I can use Canon DPP to output to TIF, which LR3 then opens correctly, but I feel that as I'm not then working with the RAW file, I'm not going to get the best out of LR3's features.
    Is there some particular setting within LR3 or ACR that I have missed ? If not, am I actually loosing detail by converting to TIF before opening LR3 ?
    I've attached example output from LR3 and DPP. Both use white balance of 'As Shot', and neither have had any processing done on them. The LR3 shot looks lees green that it does in LR3, I assume thats because I've saved it as a low res JPG.
    Thanks for any advise people can give.
    LR3 output
    DPP output

    Thanks for that answer, it shows that I may have some settings which need tweaking.
    All the LR3 settings are as standard when first loaded, playing with this bunch of shots (about 20 in all) was the first thing I ever tried in it. I wouldn't even know how to apply split toning even if I wanted to (you probably guessed by now that I'm a new user to this software). All the on land shots I've messed around with import correctly, so it's definitly only the underwater ones.
    One thing that I've just remembered, may be important, when I select shots to import in to LR3, the thumbnails look fine. It's only when the import process has finished the green colour cast appears. It's almost as if something is being applied right at the last minute.
    I haven't tried to white balance the JPEG. I assumed it wouldn't work with the RAW, it would be the same with the JPEG.
    I did process some shots using PS Elements a while ago, and don't remember any stong colour casts in that. They were from shallow fresh water rather than deeper salt water, may make a differeence. I believe the ACR plug in with PSE 8 at the time was in the 5.x range. I did manually upgrade the ACR plug in for PSE 8 to 6.1 after loading LR3. I can try backing that out and seeing if I still get the colour cast.
    Hmmm, it's looking more and more like a problem with ACR 6.1. At a guess I'd say it's not interpreting the 'as shot' information correctly, or completly ignoring it.
    I'll have a go with white balancing the JPEG when I get home. If you can do it, but I can't, it points directly with a setting on my system. I'll also have a look at uploading the RAW file somewhere.
    Cheers

  • E-pl1 yellow/green colour blotches at high iso

    Hello to all members and Adobe Team.
    i use lightroom 3.3 and i have made a comparison between my 2 cameras with the same sensor , e-p1 and e-pl1 and e-p1, and while they have identical grain like pattern and rendering at high iso (which is what i was expecting since they have the same sensor and only the Anti-Aliasing filter is lighter in e-pl1), colour rendering at high iso is very different (at low iso its different but i have profiles with colorchecker and the differences are minor).
    So i will post raw files in tungsten lighting (the most demanding for high iso-.-- 1600 i mean and even at 800 i can clearly see the problems i am describing).
    Olympus e-pL1 white balance is really, but really bad.. everything turns green (its really bothering to adjust and affects low iso images too... i spent so much time correcting the green cast but there is something that i can never get right).
    There are green/yellow/orange and purple/blue blotches at high iso.... it happens in tungsten lighting and fluorescent (less so at fluorescent, but still), those green/yellow blotches appear in uniform color areas that are in shadows its like a tint and there is nothing of this sort in e-p1 at iso1600 and even much higher isos have this kind of noise well distributed by all colour channels (they are usually small blotches/spots a little to the irregular round shap but sometimes have big size and very irregular shape).
    I believe its something in the blue channel but in the green channel also!
    Reds and colours at high iso are much more saturated in e-pl1 than in e-p1 (and from imaging-resource samples and dpreview e-pl1 its one of the cameras which has more saturated colours at high iso which sometimes it looks they are clipping channels).
    By the way this is not something just related to these testfiles it happens in almost all high iso files i believe different colour rendereing/demosaic would do much better.
    Here are the raw files, the first one is Olympus e-pl1:
    http://hotfile.com/dl/117408120/41b0f01/P5109784.ORF.html
    The second one is Olympus e-p1:
    http://hotfile.com/dl/117408591/5eab708/P5107466.ORF.html
    Notice in the blue trip Samsonite bag there are much more blue blotches with the chroma noise slider at 0 (even at 25 there is a difference in Dynamic range between e-p1 and e-pl1, when all review sites clearly say that e-pl1 is a little better at high iso even in raw, and its not just because it has more detail that you can use to kill a little grain and make things equal).
    Please dont post or use this photos as examples as they are not flattering... they are just for Adobe engineers or private testing by users not for posting in other forums.
    So Olympus cameras and Panasonic camera sensors all exibiht this problem but i have never seen something like this.... the cameras are quite good at iso1600 except all shadows have that tint even with chroma noise sliders at 40 they never disappear ... is it possible to solve the colour demosaicing and left intact the luminance one?
    Please be kind to m43 cameras since they are selling very well and i think they dont have proper support... ( i bet if this was a problem with Canon or Nikon it would be corrected in a time... we dont have coustum profiles but there is a solution for that... although for this problem we dont have better solution since its too selective and only in shadows).
    By the way in Rawtherapee i have made adjustments in channel mixer (the levels of green that the blue channel has are very high; so i took a little green (and just a tiny bit of red) and the shadow areas start getting rid of the green dots, so here it is a HINT) and there were many improvements almost making them disappear... however i want to use lightroom not rawtherapee with AMAZE demosaicing.
    Oh by the way look at Rawtherapee way of removing colour moiré with AMAze algorithm its fantastic it gives you detail back and no colour moire which shows a lot with e-pl1 in lightroom (but i know its because of lighter AA filter and its not a priority).
    Thanks for your help!

    Well if you search in the middle of the image you will see at 100% that the open bag has those green spots where it should be gray! and near the door at bottom left of the image you will see those green spots that are very distracting because they happen in shadow areas... (and by the way the red cloth is not the same red as the e-p1 image and its noticeable even at small size).
    What white balance did you use?
    I know these are just test shots but they appear in people shots too..
    Im going to prove that ACR interpretation of olympus auto white balance in olympus e-pl1 is just horrenduos with this raw file (by the way i use this one since its one of the ones with less publicity and with the most straight forward uploading, if you know one that is better to upload tell me please).
    http://hotfile.com/dl/117520711/fceaefb/P4248867.ORF.html
    Now try white balance at 2850 and tint at 0 (things improve).
    Now look at the clock.. it has a contour with the wall that is green/yellow its that kind of problem (i have noise reduction in teh color at 50 and in the detail at 25 to try to mitigate its effect but still not much luck).
    Next i will go to the HSL tools in lightroom and select yellow color and select saturation tab and dial in -30 for yellow and voilá! it has reached the kind of performance that i see with e-p1 (a little worse but almost unnoticeable),.. adobe should correct this problem in lightroom 3.5 please.
    then i used the split toning slider and in the shadows i dial in hue at 340 and saturation at 10 and there was a bigger reduction in the yellow spots so its the default rendering that is a mess (by the way sometimes if i reduce saturation in the green and in the blue channel it helps a little too like -30 in each) so try to correct these please, if possible by not dessaturate the channels but with an algorithm that detects only those kinds of spots and not all yellow info like you do in the red channel so well!!
    Thanks

  • Pink hue with RAW?

    Just loading some photos from a gig last night and I notice that as I load the picture, it initially looks good, but then when it's finished loading the final picture has a pinkish hue that wasn't there initially and is quite unpleasant. This seems to only happen when I load RAW images. What is it and what's your suggested way of removing it?

    The initial “look” is from the camera-embedded JPG.  Once the image is fully “loaded” you are seeing the Adobe-rendering. 
    Some setting in LR could be non-neutral accidentally, either by applying a preset during develop or a LR default being set strangely.  Things that affect color would be in the HSL area, the tone curve with separate RGB adjustments, the split toning, or the camera calibration area.  Look for non-zero sliders in all of those areas.
    If the image is very high-ISO, it is perhaps just a preponderance of noise that is showing through which can sometimes be pinkish because there are half-as-many red and blue photosites as there are green ones so the noise tends to be in the red and blue, more.
    Another thing could be a bad monitor profile.  You can experiment by setting the monitor profile to sRGB-whatever if it is currently something that came from the manufacturer.

  • Boring images with raw...

    When I shoot in raw with my EOS 600D an import them to lightroom, the images gets a bit boring, darker and less colorful then they were in camera. If i take the exact same picture in jpeg an import it to lightroom, the image is as it were in camera. Why? And is there something I can do too keep my images light, clear and colorful in raw as well?

    MrKjetilDale wrote:
    darker
    Often due to settings like Nikon's Active D-Lighting which reduce real exposure in the interest of preserving highlights, followed by a subsequent boost to exposure by camera software/firmware which Lightroom does not do (I call this "ETTL" (expose to the left) for when highlights/clipping is critical). Consider turning intelli-contrast settings off in camera, or just bump exposure when photos come in dark.
    MrKjetilDale wrote:
    less colorful
    Mostly a camera profile issue. e.g. if you shoot with neutral in camera, and import with vivid, the opposite will be true (they will be more colorful in Lr than they were in camera). But also, Lr/Adobe-Standard tends to have (brighter and) less saturated highlights than some camera company software, which I think is sometimes good, and sometimes not. The brightness part can be controlled using basics and/or tone curve and/or (custom?) camera profile, but the color part of this requires split toning and/or RGB curves - can NOT be controlled via HSL sliders, nor DNG Profile Editor (since you can't set control points which depend on luminance - you can set HSL based on H & S, but not 'L' ).
    Tip: this tone curve can be used in conjunction with Adobe Standard for toning which more closely matches camera emulation profiles, but with Adobe Standard color:
    <x:xmpmeta xmlns:x="adobe:ns:meta/" x:xmptk="Adobe XMP Core 5.5-c002 1.148022, 2012/07/15-18:06:45">
    <rdf:RDF xmlns:rdf="http://www.w3.org/1999/02/22-rdf-syntax-ns#">
    <rdf:Description rdf:about=""
    xmlns:crs="http://ns.adobe.com/camera-raw-settings/1.0/"
    crs:Version="8.1"
    crs:ToneCurveName="Custom"
    crs:UprightVersion="134217728"
    crs:UprightCenterMode="0"
    crs:UprightCenterNormX="0.5"
    crs:UprightCenterNormY="0.5"
    crs:UprightFocalMode="0"
    crs:UprightFocalLength35mm="35"
    crs:UprightPreview="False"
    crs:UprightTransformCount="0"
    crs:HasSettings="True">
    <crs:ToneCurve>
    <rdf:Seq>
    <rdf:li>0, 0</rdf:li>
    <rdf:li>99, 92</rdf:li>
    <rdf:li>166, 156</rdf:li>
    <rdf:li>231, 223</rdf:li>
    <rdf:li>255, 255</rdf:li>
    </rdf:Seq>
    </crs:ToneCurve>
    <crs:ToneCurveRed>
    <rdf:Seq>
    <rdf:li>0, 0</rdf:li>
    <rdf:li>255, 255</rdf:li>
    </rdf:Seq>
    </crs:ToneCurveRed>
    <crs:ToneCurveGreen>
    <rdf:Seq>
    <rdf:li>0, 0</rdf:li>
    <rdf:li>255, 255</rdf:li>
    </rdf:Seq>
    </crs:ToneCurveGreen>
    <crs:ToneCurveBlue>
    <rdf:Seq>
    <rdf:li>0, 0</rdf:li>
    <rdf:li>255, 255</rdf:li>
    </rdf:Seq>
    </crs:ToneCurveBlue>
    </rdf:Description>
    </rdf:RDF>
    </x:xmpmeta>
    Instructions:
    * save in file named "rc Standard Debright.xmp" (or any other filename you prefer, as long as it ends with ".xmp") in the correct folder, which for me is:
    C:\Users\Me\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\Curves
    (for you, it will be different, but similar...).
    Then, restart Lightroom. - you'll find it in the "Point Curve" drop-down menu.
    (it can also be "imported" in DNG Profile Editor, although you may have to reformat - I can't remember...)
    Warning: in my opinion, it is great for lower key highlights (e.g. to debrighten over-bright sunsets), but not so great if you prefer a contrastier (brighter highlights) image.
    Consider bumping exposure a notch when using it.
    Acknowledgement: I got this tone curve from Mark Sirota (sp?).
    Rob

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