MOVED: problem with z77a-g45 and gtx660tf

This topic has been moved to MSI Video Cards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=170079.0

Quote from: flobelix on 22-June-13, 22:13:17
it is a hdmi issue happening with certain vga/monitor combination.
Other combinations might work well but the combination of your monitor and your vga does not. As said before use a dvi to hdmi adapter and the problem is solved.

Similar Messages

Problem with z77a-g45 and gtx660tf

Hi everyone! I've just purchased a gtx660 tf and it works fine on windows. The problem is that everything before loading the os is not fullscreen but smaller than the monitor. The mainboard splash screen almost all the time is full screen but non always. I've tried to boot gparted live and it's always not fullscreen, same as grub bootloader. The monitor is connected by hdmi and i suppose it's not a driver problem since it happens before the os, but there must be an option to set in the mainboard's bios but don't know which one.
Can someone please help me?
Thanks a lot!

Quote from: flobelix on 22-June-13, 22:13:17
it is a hdmi issue happening with certain vga/monitor combination.
Other combinations might work well but the combination of your monitor and your vga does not. As said before use a dvi to hdmi adapter and the problem is solved.

Boot problems with Z77A-G45

Quote from: CMaster on 22-June-12, 15:31:08
Processor: Intel i5-3570K retail (new)
Mainboard: MSI Z77A-G45 (new)
Memory: 2 x Corsair 4GB XMS3 DDR3-PC1600 CMXBG3N2A1600C9 (new)
Graphics card: MSI N560GTX-Ti Twin Frozr II (new, currently disconnected)
SSD: Crucial M4 512GB (new, currently disconnected)
Power supply: Antect earthwatts 500W (used, fully functional)
HDD1: WD Velociraptor 300GB (used, rather full)
HDD2: Samsung Spinpoint F3 2tb (used, currently disconnected)
Optical drive: DH-201AS DVD-+RW (used)
Once everything is all connected up, installed in the case, etc etc, upon power up, the fans all spin up, HDDs initialize etc. Then after 10 seconds or so the system powers down again, with the screen (whether on the external or internal graphics) never having been active. There are no beeps from the PC speaker whatsoever, nor do there seem to be any indicator lights as I've had on previous MSI motherboards. The manual is completely absent of any troubleshooting section. So my main question is, is there any way to tell what stage the startup is failing on? Other threads on this forum (here and here) suggest that the problem is due to lack of processor support. As the motherboard was sold as Ivy Bridge ready, I'd like soe way of confirming this as most likely cause before paying for some fix.
Hey I am actaully sharing the similar problem of yours....
I am using MSI H77MA-G43 (BIOS v1.5), and a set of DDR3-1600 4GB RAM x 2.
When i am using both 2 pcs of RAM, i am facing the same problem:
"after 10 seconds or so the system powers down again, with the screen (whether on the external or internal graphics) never having been active. There are no beeps from the PC speaker whatsoever, nor do there seem to be any indicator lights as I've had on previous MSI motherboards. "
When I use 1 pc of DDR3-1600 4GB RAM, it works again.
I just wonder if there is some RAM compatibility problem with MSI motherboard...I have tried below 2 sets of RAM:
AMD DDR3-1600 4GB x 2 (1.5V) (AE38G1609U2K-U)
Kingston HYPER-X DDR3-1600 4GB x 2 (1.65V) (KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX)
Cheers!

Please don't hijack other's topics. >>Please read and comply with the Forum Rules.<<
Your components are not the same, starting with the RAM. >>Posting Guide<<
Please supply your full system spec.
Your RAM is 1,65V overvolted DDR3-1600.
Only add one module as per the instructions. Then do a full CMOS clear with power cord removed. >>Clear CMOS Guide<<
Afterwards go into the BIOS and set that memory to 1333, (ensure that XMP is disabled for now). Set the DRAM voltage to 1,5V. Retest and advise.

Z77A-G45 and Sapphire HD 7850 OC 2go = problem with PCI-E 3

Hi !
I'm sorry for my English but I'm French and I hope that I will be understood.
Here is my problem :
I have bought a mobo Z77A-G45 and a graphic card Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC Version 2go which is compatible PCI-E 3 x16.
But when I go in the catalyst center to view the information on the hardware it says PCI-E 2 16x.
In the bios it's on AUTO.
This is not normal ??
Thanks you very much for your help

oh I'm sorry !
Board: MSI Z77A-G45
Bios: Version 2.6
VGA: Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 OC 2go
PSU: OCZ ModXStream Pro 600W
Intel Core i3-3220 Ivy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 55W
MEM: Crucial Ballistix 2x4gb DDR3 PC3-12800 CAS8
HDD: Samsung Serie 830 - 64go SSD
OS: Windows 7 64bit Ultimate
So I have an Ivy Bridge CPU... In the BIOS I just have the choice between AUTO and DISABLED. It's on AUTO.
Thank you for your help !!

Problems with itunes 8 and ipod shuffle gen 2.

Problems with itunes 8 and ipod shuffle gen 2.
I recently upgraded from itunes 7 to itunes 8 on my windows XP PC. That's when i had issues syncing my 2nd gen shuffle.
When i try to drag songs directly on it, itunes says i can't
I made a playlist and use auto fill. But when I remove it from the dock, it's either not updated, or the new songs are at the bottom of the playlist when they are supposed to be up higher. I end up having to hit auto fill twice to make it sync correctly.
Computer Specs
Windows XP SP3
384MB of Ram (works really good)
USB 1.1 connection
Pentium 4 clocked at 1.285 GHZ
IPOD Shuffle Specs
2nd Generation
1GB (964MB)
Version 1.0.4
unchecked options: open itunes when ipod is attached, Sync only checked songs, convert higher bit rate songs to 128kbps AAC, Enable sound check, Limit MAX volume, enable disk use
All those are NOT checked. Sometimes i enable disk use for seeing the IPOD_Control folder, but either way it still messes up.
Itunes Specs:
Version 8.1.1.10

This is a well-known issue. Apple changed the internal file names used with iTunes 8, which makes the ordering on 2nd generation Shuffles behave differently. There is no good workaround, apart from moving the files with a hand-crafted AppleScript program.
Apple has been silent on the issue, so nobody knows if we'll ever have a fix for it or not.

I have a problem with indesign cs6 and my epson 3880 on mac

I have a problem with indesign cs6 and my epson 3880 on mac. I need an older version of indesign but do not have a serial number....any suggestions?

I see then I believe Kglad's advice is on track with starting with updating your printer drivers. I have also moved this discussion over to the InDesign forum as the Users in this forum likely have additional suggestions.
Also if you can please turn off your e-mail signature if you want to respond via e-mail. Your responses are going to a public forum where the information is accessible by anyone. I have edited your previous response to remove the signature.

Error: There is a problem with the file and it cannot be copied

I've been trying to copy (and essentially move) the contents of an NTFS-formatted external HDD to my iMac's internal HDD so I can then format the external HDD to Mac OS Extended. However, when I simply try to drag and drop, I get an error during the transfer that states:
There is a problem with the file and it cannot be copied.
I tried a basic cp command in Terminal to copy all contents of the external HDD to a folder on my iMac's desktop, and found that while there were no errors, there were many individual files missing full chunks of data (ie. original file would be 4GB on my external HDD, but only 350MB on my desktop).
Any ideas on how I can successfully copy a large amount of data (approx. 170GB) from my external HDD to my internal HDD while avoiding this error, so I can ultimately format my external HDD to Mac OS Extended? ANY help is greatly appreciated.

That's not a good error to see. It indicates something is very wrong. Pulled out of an old programming header file:
ioErr = -36, /*I/O error (bummers)*/
If Apple labelled it "bummers," they had a good reason! Unfortunately, that doesn't bode well for you.
Try running Disk Utility again. Keep repairing over and over until one of two things happens: 1) Disk Utility says no repair was needed, or 2) Disk Utility reports the same error in two sequential repair sessions and is unable to repair it both times.
If you hit the second case, or if you hit the first but still can't copy files, then you've got two basic options:
= Buy a third-party disk utility or two and try them. Try TechTool as a first choice.
= Recover what files you can and write the rest off as gone.
= Send your drive to a data recovery service and hope they can extract more than you can.
Of course, none of this is necessary if you have a backup of the contents of that hard drive. (If you don't, this is your learning experience. Once bitten, twice shy, so they say.) Also, regardless of the outcome, once you've got your data or have decided it's gone, you're going to want to wipe that drive completely clean. Reformat the drive with Disk Utility, then when it's done, select the drive in Disk Utility and hit command-i. (Don't select the new volume you just created on that drive, select the drive itself. Mine looks like "232.9 GB Hitachi ..." with the volume name indented underneath.) Look for an item that says S.M.A.R.T. Status, and if it doesn't say Verified, you might as well throw out the drive. Don't trust any more data to it.
If all appears safe, you can start moving data back onto it. But, as always, make sure you have a backup of everything!

I am using iPhoto 11 and my library has 736.5mb on disk. I have problems with iPhoto stalling and needing to force quit. I have rebuilt my library. Can you suggest anything else?

I am using iPhoto 11 and my library has 736.5mb on disk. I have problems with iPhoto stalling and needing to force quit. I have rebuilt my library. Can you suggest anything else? Thanks, Rose

Make a temporary, backup copy (if you don't already have a backup copy) of the library and try the following:
1 - delete the iPhoto preference file, com.apple.iPhoto.plist, that resides in your
User/Home()/Library/ Preferences folder.
2 - delete iPhoto's cache file, Cache.db, that is located in your
User/Home()/Library/Caches/com.apple.iPhoto folder.
Click to view full size
3 - launch iPhoto and try again.
NOTE: If you're moved your library from its default location in your Home/Pictures folder you will have to point iPhoto to its new location when you next open iPhoto by holding down the Option key when launching iPhoto. You'll also have to reset the iPhoto's various preferences.
NOTE 2: In Lion and Mountain Lion the Library folder is now invisible. To make it permanently visible enter the following in the Terminal application window: chflags nohidden ~/Library and hit the Enter button - 10.7: Un-hide the User Library folder.
If that does'nt help log into another user account on your Mac and try iPhoto from there.

Problems with ListViews Drag and Drop

I'm surprised that there isn't an Active X control that can do this more
easily? Would
be curious to find out if there is - although we aren't really embracing the
use of
them within Forte because it locks you into the Microsoft arena.
---------------------- Forwarded by Peggy Lynn Adrian/AM/LLY on 02/03/98 01:33
PM ---------------------------
"Stokesbary, Michael" <[email protected]> on 02/03/98 12:19:52 PM
Please respond to "Stokesbary, Michael" <[email protected]>
To: "'[email protected]'" <[email protected]>
cc:
Subject: Problems with ListViews Drag and Drop
I am just curious as to other people's experiences with the ListView
widget when elements in it are set to be draggable. In particular, I am
currently trying to design an interface that looks a lot like Windows
Explorer where a TreeView resides on the left side of the window and a
ListView resides on the right side. Upon double clicking on the
ListView, if the current node that was clicked on was a folder, then the
TreeView expands this folder and the contents are then displayed in the
ListView, otherwise, it was a file and it is brought up in Microsoft
Word. All this works great if I don't have the elements in the ListView
widget set to be draggable. If they are set to be draggable, then I am
finding that the DoubleClick event seems to get registered twice along
with the ObjectDrop event. This is not good because if I double click
and the current node is a folder, then it will expand this folder in the
TreeView, display the contents in the ListView, grab the node that is
now displayed where that node used to be displayed and run the events
for that as well. What this means, is that if this is a file, then Word
is just launched and no big deal. Unfortunately, if this happens to be
another directory, then the previous directory is dropped into this
current directory and a recursive copy gets performed, giving me one
heck of a deep directory tree for that folder.
Has anybody else seen this, or am I the only lucky one to experience.
If need be, I do have this exported in a .pex file if anybody needs to
look at it more closely.
Thanks in advance.
Michael Stokesbary
Software Engineer
GTE Government Systems Corporation
tel: (650) 966-2975
e-mail: [email protected]

here is the required code....
private static class TreeDragGestureListener implements DragGestureListener {
     public void dragGestureRecognized(DragGestureEvent dragGestureEvent) {
     // Can only drag leafs
     JTree tree = (JTree) dragGestureEvent.getComponent();
     TreePath path = tree.getSelectionPath();
     if (path == null) {
          // Nothing selected, nothing to drag
          System.out.println("Nothing selected - beep");
          tree.getToolkit().beep();
     } else {
          DefaultMutableTreeNode selection = (DefaultMutableTreeNode) path
               .getLastPathComponent();
          if (selection.isLeaf()) {
          TransferableTreeNode node = new TransferableTreeNode(
               selection);
          dragGestureEvent.startDrag(DragSource.DefaultCopyDrop,
               node, new MyDragSourceListener());
          } else {
          System.out.println("Not a leaf - beep");
          tree.getToolkit().beep();
}

Problems with Customer Service AND unexplained charges!

I've been with Verizon for I-don't-know-how-many years, and through the years you are bound to have a few problems here and there but some of the problems are just ridiculous! It's also the same reocurring problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was with Alltel first, before it was bought out by Verizon. The years I was with Alltel, I didn't have near as many problems. It seems EVERY time I do the smallest change or something to my phone or bill, I get a ridiculous amount of charges that I was NOT aware of, nor told about... EVEN IF I ask "So this isn't going to change my bill, or there will not be any unexpected/unexplained charges that I don't know about?"... BUT not matter how many times I ask... and NO matter how many times I am told "no"... there always is. For example.... last year, I updated and signed a new 2 year contract and purchased the first Driod. Before, my 30 day warranty was up, I was having problems with my Driod, and decided to send it in and get a new one. Before I did this.. I called customer service to make sure there would be no interuption in my bill, and there wouldn't be any unexpect charges, and there would be no difference in anything. I was told there was not, and once I recieved my new phone, just send it in and nothing would be changed. Of course, when I get my bill.. I see I was charged $500 for the new phone. It was explained to me that my credit card was reimbursed (which I never check that card, because I never used it expect to purchase the phone) and that I was recharged for the new phone, since it was a new phone. So I had to fork out the $500 (on top of my bill) and then wait months to get the $100 rebate card. Months after that, I "assumed liablity of my line" because I was on a plan with my family. I decided to have my own line, so I "assumed liability." I was not told that when I did that, I "renewed" my contract date. So I just added 6 more months to my 2 year contract. Was NOT told about that! Then again...... I was recently having problems with my Driod (the screen went black and would not come back on.) I had to turn on an OLD motorola razor, so I would not be without a phone for two days while I was waiting on my phone to come in. As soon as my phone came in, I had my Droid turned back on. I recieved my bill recently, and my bill was $200 over what it normally should be.... so I called in... apparently, when I had my phone replaced, they dropped off my data package and when I recieved my replacement driod, they never put it back on. So I was being charged for alllll my data usage... again I was NOT told about this. I wasn't even aware that they had dropped off my data package, and when/where did they get the authority to do that??? These are just a FEW of the problems that I have had.................................
Does anyone have these reoccuring problems!?

I understand that my bill can be viewed online, and I do view it fairly regularly, so if there are any unexplained charges, I can call Verizon asap. The problem does not come from me not understanding my bill, but from customer service. I have been with Verizon for a very long time, and it is a continuing problem. Where did Verizon get the 'OK' to drop my data package off my plan? Who authorized that?
After calling Verizon and trying to find out the problem, the gentleman told me that when I activated on old phone while I was waiting on my new Droid to arrive, my data package was dropped off and I "should" have been told about that. When I reactiviated my new Droid, I "should" have called and had them restart my data package. I was not aware that when you activate an old phone that data plan is taken off your plan. In all my years of having cell phones, I never make two years with one phone. I have always, at one point, had to turn on an old phone, and my data package has NEVER changed. Why would I have my data package dropped and why would I have to call Verizon to have it restarted. I would never know to do that unless I was TOLD that my data packaged HAD to be re-added when I recieved my new phone, but I was never told of that.
All of that is beside the point, the point is, Verizon was never given the authorization to change my plan. Never. My bill was taken care of and readjusted, and I am thankful for that. It does not change the fact it is always a hassle with Verizon Customer Service and I am always the one having to PROVE that I am not at fault, or that I was NEVER told of certian things. EVERY TIME I HAVE CALLED CUSTOMER SERVICE, I AM TOLD "I'M SORRY, THEY SHOULD HAVE TOLD YOU THAT."
"they should" does not help my bill with the extra armount of charges.

Problems with dropped calls and no reception on Samsung Continuum

My mother and I both purchased a Samsung Continuum in late March 2011, and have experienced the same problems with the phone. The device drops at least 2-3 calls per day, often on the same conversation; we have not found that location or time of day makes a difference. The phone freezes up frequently, even if no apps are running in the background. We lose our 3G network reception frequently, and cannot access our texts, emails, or the internet. The screen saver kicks in even when we are actively dialing a number, or typing in a text message. The overall performance of the phone is also poor, and it is quite slow much of the time.
We have raised this issue several times with a representative at one of the Verizon stores, but he states that he can find no problem with the phone, and that these issues may not be covered under our insurance plan. None of my friends with non-Samsung phones are having the same problems with phone reception and performance. I am aggravated enough with these issues that I am considering reactivating my old Blackberry, which worked like a charm.
I am not upset that my phone has not been updated to Android 2.2. I just want the phone to perform as stated, and not fail at its primary function: making and receiving phone calls. I am not certain if these problems originate with the phone, Verizon, or Samsung, nor do I care. I just want to resolve these issues as soon as possible, or I will have to look at other alternatives.
Thank you.

If this doesn't work...now what??? I have a useless $400 plus piece of unreliable junk. My Motorola Razor was ions more reliable than this phone...very, very sad but true.
What carrier were you using with the Razor? AT&T? Same area?
Dave M.
MacOSG Founder/Ambassador  An Apple User Group  iTunes: MacOSG Podcast
Creator of 'Mac611 - Mobile Mac Support' (designed exclusively for an iPhone/iPod touch)

Problems with Mail, Safari and iTunes after updating to 10.5.6

Hi all,
after installing 10.5.6 I have problems with Mail, Safari and iTunes.
The time to open mails, websides and iTunes store is increasing dramatically since the update. If I open a webside parallel with Safari and Firefox, Safari needs minimum 15 times longer to open the complete side. Mails containing HTML-code also needs a long time to be opened. Tha same Problem with iTunes store. Connecting to the Store costs at least 30 - 40 seconds. And unfortunately for every iTunes store side I open. Its terrible
Any idea or workaroung to solve that problem?
Regards
Michael

First, run Disk Utility and repair permissions and then restart.
I installed the 10.5.6 Combo update. Sometimes things get "lost in the translation" when you use Software Update depending on your installation. Perhaps you can download 10.5.6 Combo from the website and install it from your desktop.

Problems with the richTextEditor and quotes

Hello
I'm having problems with quote chars and the richText
control's htmlText. When users enter quotes into the richTextEditor
control. The quotes breaks the HTML text, meaning it's no longer
well formatted. Is there an escape char that I need to use. Or do I
need to force some kind of refresh on the control prior to using
the htmlText string?

I have been using RTE in a content management system and
found a need to replace non-standard quote characters with proper
UTF-8 character counterparts. Curly quotes in particular are
problematic. Use a replace function to substitute non-standard for
standard characters.

Problems with .ARW files and auto toning

problems with .ARW files and auto toning
let me try to explain this because this has happened in past and never found a way to resolve but i lived with it
now that I have a Sony A7R the problem is more serious
Firstly i take pride it making the picture happen all in camera, i use DRO lvl 5 to get enough light, like when i'm shooting at dusk. DRO its like doing HDR but in a single file, it lightens the darks. in my camera i'm happy with results
but when I upload them to lightroom, they come out near black.
allow me to explain
lets say I import 100 images
i double check my preferences and everything is UNCHECKED when it comes to importing options, there is no auto toning, nothing.
as the images import i see a preview in the thumbnail which looks fine.
i double click on one to enlarge it, hence leave grid view.
for a brief 1 or 2 seconds, i see the full image in all its glory but than lightroom does something funny, it darkens the image
one by one as it inspects each image, if it was a DRO image it makes it too dark.
to make this clear, the image is perfect as it was in the beginning but after a few seconds lightroom for some reason thinks it needs to correct it.
how to prevent lightroom from doing this, i want the image exactly as it is, why must lightroom apply a correction>?
i think it has to do something with interpreting the raw file and lightroom applies its own algorithm.
but here is what i dont get.....before lightroom makes the change i'm able to witness the picture exactly as it was taken and want it unchanged..
now i have to tweak each file or find a profile for it which is added work.
any ideas how to prevent lightroom from ruining my images and just leave them as they were when first detected...
there are 2 phases...one is when it originally imports and they look fine
second is scanning each image and applying some kind of toning which darkens it too much.
thanks for the help

sorry thats the auto reply message from yahoo email.
i've disabled it now
thing is, there is no DRO jpg to download from the camera
its only ARW. so my understanding is when i use DRO setting, the camera makes changes to the ARW than lightroom somehow reads this from the ARW.
but then sadly reverts it to no DRO settings.
because i notice if i take normal picture in raw mode its dark but if i apply dro to it, it comes out brighter, yet when i d/l the image from camera to lightroom, which is an ARW - there are no jpgs. lightroom decides to mess it up
so in reality there is no point in using DRO because when i upload it lightroom removes it.
is there a way to tell lightroom to preserve the jpg preview as it first sees it.
its just lame, picture appears perfect...than lightroom does something, than bam, its ruined,.
what do i need to do to prevent lightroom from ruining the image? if it was good in the first place.

I have upgraded Apple Aperture from version 2 to version 3 and I'm having a problem with the "Highlights and Shadows" adjustment. According to the user's manual, I should have access to an advanced disclosure triangle which would allow me to adjust mid co

I have upgraded Apple Aperture from version 2 to version 3 and I'm having a problem with the "Highlights and Shadows" adjustment. According to the user's manual, I should have access to an advanced disclosure triangle which would allow me to adjust mid contrast, colour, radius, high tonal width and low tonal width.
If anyone has any suggestions as to how to access this advanced section, I'd be most grateful.

Hi David-
The advanced adjustments in the Highlights & Shadows tool were combined into the "Mid Contrast" slider in Aperture 3.3 and later. If you have any images in your library that were processed in a version of Aperture before 3.3, there will be an Upgrade button in the Highlights & Shadows tool in the upper right, and the controls you asked about under the Advanced section. Clicking the Upgrade button will re-render the photo using the new version of Highlights & Shadows, and the Advanced section will be replaced with the new Mid Contrast slider. With the new version from 3.3 you probably don't need the Advanced slider, but if you want to use the older version you can download it from this page:
http://www.apertureexpert.com/tips/2012/6/12/reclaim-the-legacy-highlights-shado ws-adjustment-in-aperture.html

MOVED: problem with z77a-g45 and gtx660tf

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