Multiple Take Edits & Trouble Shooting

I have a few problems with Logic's take use.
For starters, I recorded drums on multiple takes using multiple mics and tracks. I would like to edit all the tracks for the drums at the same time. I cant figure it out, as right now I have to do one track at a time for a 12 track drum kit.
Next on the list is that sometimes I will randomly, without pattern, loose comp folders. First they will turn into a little blip, and then I loose them completely. In order to get them back, I would have to drag the audio files back from the library. However, I can't or don't know how to create take folders from already recorded audio.
Its all quite annoying for me and have stopped mixing because of it. Can anyone please help me with my troubles?
Thanks,
David

Hi David,
You need to enable the group function on those 12 tracks of drums. Drag your mouse across all 12 tracks in the mixer, and then in the group window, select a new group. Then, while clicking and holding over the group window, open "group settings", and make sure "Region Selection (Edit)" is enabled.
Now, whenever you select and edit any region in a track, assigned to that group, all other tracks assigned to that group will follow.
I've never created a take folder after the fact, but I believe it's a simple matter of selecting the tracks you wish to include, and then under the Arrange pages mini "Regions" menu, select "Pack Take Folder". If I'm wrong on that, someone please correct me...
Hope that helps.

Similar Messages

Hi I have had my Mac for 4 years and I have taken a lot of Mac training which have been great now I wonder is there a site or course I can take to trouble shoot my computer I am not a computer geek unfortunately.

So, Is there something I can take on-line or a quick tutorial for the Mac Operating system for Lion version. Thanks

Hey MacTrekki,
Thanks for the question. Our website has a great support page for OS X Lion, you may want to check it out:
Apple - Support - Lion
http://www.apple.com/support/lion/
Furthermore, if you live in an area with a local Apple Retail Store, there are a lot of great workshops and one-to-one opportunities:
Apple Retail Store - Workshops
http://www.apple.com/retail/learn/
Thanks,
Matt M.

Clip Management - Difficult To Manage Multiple Clips of Multiple "Takes"

I just switched from iMovie and am editing multiple "takes" from a shoot I did for a commercial. I am finding it very difficult to keep track of which shots I like best. I am using detailed naming, but that is not the issue. When I drop a clip from the Project section into the Timeline I am finding it very tedious to determine which clips in the Project section have already been dropped into the Timeline. Did I use it already; didn't I? Other than Labels, or the checkbox for the Good collumn, is there a less tedious way for me to clearly see what is already used from the Project section? Is there a way to have them disappear from the Project section once I drop them into the Timeline? I guess I could drag everything into the Timeline and then just do all the edits by deleting what I don't want, but that seems to defeat the purpose of the Source section.
Thanks,
Eric

> Did I use it already; didn't I
There are a number of ways. Right click on a clip and say "Reveal in project" it will show you where the clip is in a bin.
More importantly each clip in a bin shows you on the top left if it is in use. Video clips will display a film strip and audio files display a little speaker.
Very easy.
Or you could click on "remove unused clips".

Editing multiple takes

Does anyone know of a tutorial on working with multiple takes? I can't seem to find anything in the manual or here in the discussion group.
I have several takes that I would like to pick and choose from, but I can only get one of them to play at a time. I thought this was a simple process with the marquee tool. But am having no luck.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.

Hi,
I guess you mean Help > Logic Express 8 User Manual, page 391 (Creating Comps).
Here you'll find the explanantion of how you can take the best parts out of multiple takes.
Note that this only works on takes you recorded on one track. So, if you recorded your different takes on different tracks, they won't appear in this way, and you'll need to things the old fashioned way.
Regards,
Jaap

Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004

(Revision 13-1-2004)
Hi there,
Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
To give some examples:
CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
CPU speeds
You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
Check your manual for this.
Speeds must be:
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
How to recognise the CPU:
If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
B=100MHz (=200DDR)
C=133MHz (=266DDR)
D=166MHz (=333DDR)
E=200MHz (=400DDR)
To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
Thanks Mellops.
The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
CPU Cooling
CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!
top 2 show how not to do it
Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
(Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
How to check the cooler before taking it off.
There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****
Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
Thanks Dragon60.
If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
Powersupplies
Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
That should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
More info about powersupplies: Click here.
And the second you must read: Click here.
Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
3.3V - 28A or better
5V - 30A or better
12V - 18A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
Metalclips
Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
RAM
Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
DDR ram speeds:
Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
BIOS
BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
And go further from there......
Clearing CMos
When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
On most boards, as far as I know all MSI boards, you must set the JBat1 to position 2-3 (clear position) for about 10 seconds, then set it back to 1-2 (keep data position)
After this your CMos should be cleared and you can turn the system back on.
In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
Thanks fguevara.
Harddisks
Harddisk is giving problems, most of the time with WD drive's, they are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
Harddisk is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the blue connector to the board, and don't let the other end of the cable unused, make sure there is a device connected to it.
The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Click here for DFT
Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
For more information read this: Click here.
To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
leds will work only when + or - is correct
Thanks Tweetyoost.
Floppy drive's
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup
When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
lockup, but your system is running fine.
This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
resume on KBC
resume on PS/2
resume by alarm
USB ports not working[/U]
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
Thanks Stygge
Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
Test all the parts in another system
Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
Thanks HansH.
Checking the powersupply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
Disconnect the powersupply.
Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
Thanks HansH.
KT4 users
Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
These can be BIOS problems.
In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
Motherboards making a Siren-sound
If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
Check the folowing:
1. CPU too hot
2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
Stutter in audio
Remove your antivirus software.
We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
Windows
Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
Lan not working 100MBit
You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
!!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]

Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true.

My router is out of warranty, how do i trouble shoot it?

I called Linksys and they told me that I need to pay like 32 bucks so they can troubleshoot my router. I backed off and told them I'll see if i can trouble shoot it myself.The thing is how do I troubleshoot it now that it's out of warranty? Router: Linksys BEFW11S4 Windows: Windows XP

First of all, get a copy of the User Guide for your router. It should be on the original software CD that came with the router. Or you can download it from Linksys.com. Copy the Guide to your computer and/or print a copy.
The User Guide explains all the settings in the router.
Look over the User Guide. You do not need to understand everything in it. But you do need to be generally familiar with how the tabs will take you to various router settings.
Note that the router will work fine with 95% to 100% of the router settings at their default values. So, you will likely need to change none, or only a few settings to get your router to work.
Next, login to your router at 192.168.1.1 , and click on the tabs and see what settings are available.
Finally, for answers to your questions, that won't cost $32, come here to the support forum.
If you are currently having a problem with your router, please explain the problem in detail. Please include your router's version number.
Message Edited by toomanydonuts on 03-06-2008 05:08 AM

TS4268 Ever since I uploaded i0s7 I haven't been able to receive I messages or face time. I have took it to the apple store and they couldn't figure it out. I have also followed the trouble shooting from I tunes and still can't get it working

Ever since I uploaded i0s7 I haven't been able to receive I messages or face time. I have took it to the apple store and they couldn't figure it out. I have also followed the trouble shooting from I tunes and still can't get it working

Hi,
Strikes -
Go into compositionReady and have 3 variables you will be able to set them like this
strike1 = 0;
strike2 = 0;
strike3 = 0;
So on the wrong item click have
if(strike1 == 0) {
PLAY STRIKE1 ANIMATION
strike1 = 1;
else if(strike2 == 0) {
PLAY STRIKE2 ANIMATION
strike2 = 1;
else if(strike3 == 0) {
PLAY STRIKE2 ANIMATION
strike3 = 1;
So this will make it so when the wrong item is clicked each strike will be played in order.
Random Scrolling -
You should look into the Math.Random function to make things random in edge.
This is an example of the Random function. It will generate a random number up to 100.
var random = Math.floor (Math.random () * 100);
Lose Screen Score -
So we can create another variable in compositionReady for the lose score.
score = 0;
Now when the user gains a point to add to the score you could do this code on the click
score++;
which would add 1 to the score, However you can add however much you like to the score doing "score + 2" and so on.
To edit a text with the score at the end which I'm assuming you will want to do you will use .html
so $("Text").html("You score is " + score);
I hope this helps!

I can't log into my iTunes account. I logger out a few days ago to trouble shoot because I was trying to redeem some iTunes cards but when i pressed redeem nothing happened. Now when i press sign in and then choose existing Apple ID, nothing happens

I can't log into my iTunes account on my iPhone 5s. I logged out a few days ago to trouble shoot because I was trying to redeem some iTunes cards but when i pressed redeem nothing happened. I then tried to log back in immediately afterwards. I was unable to do so. After clicking "sign in" at the bottom of the apps main page, it brought up another menu where I clicked "Choose existing Apple ID". After pressing this the menu disappeared and nothing happened. I tried this multiple times and received the same result each time. I tried the other available option of creating a new AP ID to log in with and that one worked perfectly fine. I am clueless as to why the log in for me is either not able to load or just completely blocking me from getting back into my iTunes account on my phone. Not only can I not listen to the music I currently have, but I cannot log in to purchase the new music that I wanted to with my unused iTunes gift cards

I have the same problem too and tried alot of things like time zone , restarting or changing DNS of wifi connection to 8.8.8.8 still nothing happens .. !!
iPhone 5s, iOS 8.3

Kisight: How do I get my iSight working ? Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera. (Version 3)

Replacement for the second draft of this Thread   (To be removed if Published as Tip)
kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?
Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera. (Version 3)
Hi,     On many subjects Apple has Articles and Documents that can help.
In some case they are written by an Engineer or similar and can miss the mark for the average user.
In other cases they are crafted, detailed responses to an issue that has popped up many times in the Apple Discussions and take the best from many responses in those User-to-User Discussions, creating something that can not be surpassed.
This is the case of the Apple Article HT2090 on Trouble Shooting an iSight.
It lists steps and processes to go through for both Internal iSights and External ones.
However as with most things it does sometime pay to reword things differently so that people grasp the points in language they understand.
The info here is a reworking itself of two pages at ralphjohns.co.uk/EZ Jim pages namely EZ JIm's page 2 Where can I Find Help With My iSight ? and his page 4, How Can I Test My iSight is Completely Functional ? which were written several years ago and predate the Apple Article, being aimed at the External iSight. They have been updated since to address the Internal iSight as well but some of the comments are useful between the two types.
External First. For Internal iSights Start at 2b) (you will need to adjust some options/steps as the Internal is USB)
Steps
1) Pre Purchase
If buying an External iSight you should if you an get to see it in action.Apple no longer sells the External iSight so you will be buying it second hand.If you cannot get to see the device plugged in and working on Mac then check the smaller print of the seller and selling site as to nature of Returns and Faulty Goods.
2) Does it work ?
a) First of all Plug it in. It should come with a suitable mount (although there are variants on this) and a 6 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable.
Ideally it should have it's own Firewire port/socket on your computer. Connecting it "DaisyChained" to other devices can be a problem as they do not all use Firewire at the same Data speed.
It will then go through some checks as the OS powers it up and checks it's firmware.
Do not be concerned that the little green indicator light atop your iSight illuminates for a few seconds and then goes dark when you first connect your iSight or power on your Mac. Do not be concerned if you hear a soft whir as iSight attempt to focus either. Both these occurrences are normal. If your iSight passes the following tests, do not worry about this sound or the status of the green light.
There is no ON switch as such. It does have an iris mechanism that can be controlled by the User. The iris should be turned so you can see the Lens for the iSight to send pictures to an application.
b) Pick an Application to see the picture the iSight produces.iChat is one application you can use. Photobooth is another. iMovie (Version 4 or above for external iSight -- Version 6 or above for in-built iSight) and Comic Book (if bundled on your Mac) are yet more.
See this Users Tip for more applications Or this page for yet more.
Photo Booth is probably the simplest as it has no Preferences to choose a camera in the original version and is done from the Menu items in later versions (nor is there any setting in the OS) and Photo Booth will default to the External Camera if one is plugged in before the application is started.     If you see your self or what the camera is pointing at, It Works !!
3) If it does Not Work
a) Check Cables/leads. Re-seat the cable at both ends. DO this carefully as although Firewire cables are keyed to fit the right way it has been known to force them the wrong way.
Try another 6 pin to 6 pin firewire cable.
b) Unplug the cable from any other FireWire device and give the iSight it's Own FireWire port/socket on the Mac (exclude issues with other FireWire devices). It is important that this be a port/socket on your computer and that you know that it works. Do not use a port in a FireWire hub or another FireWire device or a FireWire port in an Apple Display for testing. (Also see d below if you have an 800 FIreWIre Computer)
c) Check System Profiler (Apple Icon menu top Left > About this Mac. > More Info Button)Open the Reveal Triangles to see the list and go to Hardware > FireWire. (Use USB for Internal Cameras)
If it appears here try booting or Logging in as another user on the Mac (Create a Test account if you don't have one) and try item 2b) above again.
d) With FireWire 800 computers you may have to change your FireWire 400 to 800 Adaptor or Cable to get full Audio functionality with Lion Apps
If it is not in the System Profiler you are almost certainly going to need the Trouble Shooting Article from Apple at this point. This Article may also be of help (number HT1317 What to do if your computer won't recognise a FireWire or USB device).
If you have not resolved things at this stage it is going to be time for an Engineer with Apple credentials.There are no user serviceable parts inside any iSight.
Other Items
Audio.
The External Camera has two mics inside.The volume it records at or plays through for iChat is controlled in System Preferences > Sound > Input tab (select device) and this should be set to get the blue response bar to at least half way (preferably three quarters) when you talk.The same applies to any other Mic, even the Internal one on laptops and some other Macs.
Firmware.
The System Profiler as detailed above should tell you the Firmware the iSight has. The current version is 1.0.3 and was updated in Panther. (Essentially it is an Audio compatibility update but does seem to help in other situations)
If your computer is running Panther (10.2.x) then use this Updater
If running Tiger (10.4.x) or Leopard (10.5.x) then navigate manually to your Hard Drive/System/Library/Core Services/iSight Updater and run the updater found there.
If an iSight is Plugged in on the Computer when you do an OS update and the firmware needs updating on the iSight this app is supposed to be triggered but it seem it may need a hand at times.
Focusing on the External iSight
Essentially the External iSight is self or Autofocusing.
If in doubt then try better lighting and strong colours as opposes to light or pastels.
(All built-in iSights are fixed focus. Therefore, unless a built-in iSight lens cover is dirty or smudged, any built-in iSight whose image is blurry needs service by an Engineer with Apple credentials.)
EZ Jim has these more specific recommendations for piece of mind.
Make a cross whose lines are about one-half inch or more wide on a plain background to use as a focus target. (I have even used black electrical tape.)
Turn on plenty of light and hold the target very still at about two or three feet from the lens. Watch iSight focus. (You may need to use a tripod or brace yourself to hold the target still enough.)
Then quickly move the target and hold it very still at about one foot away from the lens. Watch iSight focus.
Finally, move in to about six inches from iSight, and check focus there, too. (Holding the target still is more important as you get closer to iSight.)
This Users Tip by Ian Bickerstaff can give you clues for any application really "Look and sound good in iChat"
Other Info and Links
iSight Support info at Apple Links to Users Guide, Manual and many other topics on the External iSight.
Apple's iSight Firewire Connectivity FAQs
Apple's iSight Service FAQs
If you feel you have not understood or think you have not grasped something here or in the links so far try the iSight Discussion Forum
1:13 PM      Saturday; October 8, 2011
Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"
 G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
 MacBookPro 2Gb( 10.6.8)
 Mac OS X (10.6.8),
"Limit the Logs to the Bits above Binary Images."  No, Seriously

Replacement for the second draft of this Thread   (To be removed if Published as Tip)
kisight: How do I get my iSight working ?
Trouble Shooting an iSight Camera. (Version 3)
Hi,     On many subjects Apple has Articles and Documents that can help.
In some case they are written by an Engineer or similar and can miss the mark for the average user.
In other cases they are crafted, detailed responses to an issue that has popped up many times in the Apple Discussions and take the best from many responses in those User-to-User Discussions, creating something that can not be surpassed.
This is the case of the Apple Article HT2090 on Trouble Shooting an iSight.
It lists steps and processes to go through for both Internal iSights and External ones.
However as with most things it does sometime pay to reword things differently so that people grasp the points in language they understand.
The info here is a reworking itself of two pages at ralphjohns.co.uk/EZ Jim pages namely EZ JIm's page 2 Where can I Find Help With My iSight ? and his page 4, How Can I Test My iSight is Completely Functional ? which were written several years ago and predate the Apple Article, being aimed at the External iSight. They have been updated since to address the Internal iSight as well but some of the comments are useful between the two types.
External First. For Internal iSights Start at 2b) (you will need to adjust some options/steps as the Internal is USB)
Steps
1) Pre Purchase
If buying an External iSight you should if you an get to see it in action.Apple no longer sells the External iSight so you will be buying it second hand.If you cannot get to see the device plugged in and working on Mac then check the smaller print of the seller and selling site as to nature of Returns and Faulty Goods.
2) Does it work ?
a) First of all Plug it in. It should come with a suitable mount (although there are variants on this) and a 6 pin to 6 pin Firewire cable.
Ideally it should have it's own Firewire port/socket on your computer. Connecting it "DaisyChained" to other devices can be a problem as they do not all use Firewire at the same Data speed.
It will then go through some checks as the OS powers it up and checks it's firmware.
Do not be concerned that the little green indicator light atop your iSight illuminates for a few seconds and then goes dark when you first connect your iSight or power on your Mac. Do not be concerned if you hear a soft whir as iSight attempt to focus either. Both these occurrences are normal. If your iSight passes the following tests, do not worry about this sound or the status of the green light.
There is no ON switch as such. It does have an iris mechanism that can be controlled by the User. The iris should be turned so you can see the Lens for the iSight to send pictures to an application.
b) Pick an Application to see the picture the iSight produces.iChat is one application you can use. Photobooth is another. iMovie (Version 4 or above for external iSight -- Version 6 or above for in-built iSight) and Comic Book (if bundled on your Mac) are yet more.
See this Users Tip for more applications Or this page for yet more.
Photo Booth is probably the simplest as it has no Preferences to choose a camera in the original version and is done from the Menu items in later versions (nor is there any setting in the OS) and Photo Booth will default to the External Camera if one is plugged in before the application is started.     If you see your self or what the camera is pointing at, It Works !!
3) If it does Not Work
a) Check Cables/leads. Re-seat the cable at both ends. DO this carefully as although Firewire cables are keyed to fit the right way it has been known to force them the wrong way.
Try another 6 pin to 6 pin firewire cable.
b) Unplug the cable from any other FireWire device and give the iSight it's Own FireWire port/socket on the Mac (exclude issues with other FireWire devices). It is important that this be a port/socket on your computer and that you know that it works. Do not use a port in a FireWire hub or another FireWire device or a FireWire port in an Apple Display for testing. (Also see d below if you have an 800 FIreWIre Computer)
c) Check System Profiler (Apple Icon menu top Left > About this Mac. > More Info Button)Open the Reveal Triangles to see the list and go to Hardware > FireWire. (Use USB for Internal Cameras)
If it appears here try booting or Logging in as another user on the Mac (Create a Test account if you don't have one) and try item 2b) above again.
d) With FireWire 800 computers you may have to change your FireWire 400 to 800 Adaptor or Cable to get full Audio functionality with Lion Apps
If it is not in the System Profiler you are almost certainly going to need the Trouble Shooting Article from Apple at this point. This Article may also be of help (number HT1317 What to do if your computer won't recognise a FireWire or USB device).
If you have not resolved things at this stage it is going to be time for an Engineer with Apple credentials.There are no user serviceable parts inside any iSight.
Other Items
Audio.
The External Camera has two mics inside.The volume it records at or plays through for iChat is controlled in System Preferences > Sound > Input tab (select device) and this should be set to get the blue response bar to at least half way (preferably three quarters) when you talk.The same applies to any other Mic, even the Internal one on laptops and some other Macs.
Firmware.
The System Profiler as detailed above should tell you the Firmware the iSight has. The current version is 1.0.3 and was updated in Panther. (Essentially it is an Audio compatibility update but does seem to help in other situations)
If your computer is running Panther (10.2.x) then use this Updater
If running Tiger (10.4.x) or Leopard (10.5.x) then navigate manually to your Hard Drive/System/Library/Core Services/iSight Updater and run the updater found there.
If an iSight is Plugged in on the Computer when you do an OS update and the firmware needs updating on the iSight this app is supposed to be triggered but it seem it may need a hand at times.
Focusing on the External iSight
Essentially the External iSight is self or Autofocusing.
If in doubt then try better lighting and strong colours as opposes to light or pastels.
(All built-in iSights are fixed focus. Therefore, unless a built-in iSight lens cover is dirty or smudged, any built-in iSight whose image is blurry needs service by an Engineer with Apple credentials.)
EZ Jim has these more specific recommendations for piece of mind.
Make a cross whose lines are about one-half inch or more wide on a plain background to use as a focus target. (I have even used black electrical tape.)
Turn on plenty of light and hold the target very still at about two or three feet from the lens. Watch iSight focus. (You may need to use a tripod or brace yourself to hold the target still enough.)
Then quickly move the target and hold it very still at about one foot away from the lens. Watch iSight focus.
Finally, move in to about six inches from iSight, and check focus there, too. (Holding the target still is more important as you get closer to iSight.)
This Users Tip by Ian Bickerstaff can give you clues for any application really "Look and sound good in iChat"
Other Info and Links
iSight Support info at Apple Links to Users Guide, Manual and many other topics on the External iSight.
Apple's iSight Firewire Connectivity FAQs
Apple's iSight Service FAQs
If you feel you have not understood or think you have not grasped something here or in the links so far try the iSight Discussion Forum
1:13 PM      Saturday; October 8, 2011
Please, if posting Logs, do not post any Log info after the line "Binary Images for iChat"
 G4/1GhzDual MDD (Leopard 10.5.8)
 MacBookPro 2Gb( 10.6.8)
 Mac OS X (10.6.8),
"Limit the Logs to the Bits above Binary Images."  No, Seriously

How do I find missing/lost bookmarks I tried the trouble shooting section i just couldn't figure it out

I had a bookmark folder & decided to add two more. When I went to my folders I could only find one new folder. When I clicked on it, it brought me to the second new folder. I couldn't get all three to appear under the bookmarks section. I retitled them because two of the three bookmarks had the wrong bookmarked items & then I lost the third, which had all the original bookmarks.
I've tried your trouble shooting section, I don't understand all of the information. I have been through the trouble shooting section several times trying different options. I've gotten myself so frustrated & confused :( I'm hoping for a little one on one help.
Thank you so much

First steps read the articles & do the following
# manually backup your current bookmarks (as they are now) see [[Restore bookmarks from backup or move them to another computer]]
#locate your profile, backup your bookmarks backups folder and the files it contains. See [[Profiles - Where Firefox stores your bookmarks, passwords and other user data#w_how-do-i-find-my-profile]]'''_how-do-i-find-my-profile'''
*also see http://kb.mozillazine.org/Profile_folder_-_Firefox#Folders
* put the new backups somewhere safe; outside any Firefox or profile paths
Now look at what you have and keep the best ones 
There are limits to what may be restored, depending on what you have done and deleted, but once you have taken the action above you have preserved whatever is there.
You can now try restoring any of the automated backups that Firefox has made for you (By default each of the last ten days). But take CARE any restore overwrites and destroys existing ones (unless it is from an HTML file then it is appended ). Always backup by exporting before you do a restore.
You may restore from any backup you have made by exporting the current state, you are not limited to just the automated backups.
Post back with how you get on and with any further questions.

My iPhone is stuck in recovery mode, I can't restore/update my device. I keep getting error 2001. I've tried basically every trouble shooting step out there. Any suggestions?

I have tried every trouble shooting step there is. restarting my computer amd restarting my device. It died while i was at work and when i went to plug it into my car charger all i saw was the apple logo coming and going. so when i got home i put it in recovery mode and tried to restore and I got Error 2001. I have no idea what to do.

Visit an Authorized Apple Service Provider or Apple Store to get it checked. If they can't fix this, you'll have to pay the Out-Of-Warranty-Service fee to get a new replacement for a reduced price:
Out-of-warranty repair service
If your repair isn’t covered by Apple’s One Year Limited Warranty, AppleCare+, or AppleCare Protection Plan, your iPhone might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. For example, liquid damage isn’t covered by warranty but might be eligible for out-of-warranty service. Some damage isn’t eligible at all, for example if your device has been broken into multiple pieces. See Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions for complete details.
Read Apple’s Repair Terms and Conditions
Model
Out-of-warranty service fee
Battery service*
iPhone 6 Plus
$329
$79
*available only if battery
fails Apple’s diagnostic test
iPhone 6
$299
iPhone 5s, iPhone 5c, iPhone 5
$269
iPhone 4s
$199
iPhone 4, iPhone 3GS, iPhone 3G,
Original iPhone
$149
Plus a $6.95 shipping fee, if required. Fees are in USD and exclude local tax. Pricing is for service through Apple. The final service fee we charge will be determined during testing and may be less than the service fee listed above. Pricing and terms vary for service through an Apple Authorized Service Provider.
copied from Service Answer Center - iPhone

The file is not compatible with this version of photoshop / CS2 error -- Same File : CS6 no error / CS2 error , I need trouble shooting method, Please

the file is not compatible with this version of photoshop / CS2 error -- Same File : CS6 no error / CS2 error , I need trouble shooting method, Please

Save with Maximize Compatibility in CS6.
Choose Edit > Preferences > File Handling (Windows) or Photoshop > Preferences > File Handling (Mac OS).
From the Maximize PSD and PSB File Compatibility menu, choose any of the following:
Always
Then re-save your file so it can open in CS2

Trouble shooting the export function

I am a new user to CS4 Premiere 4.1.0 as part of my master suite program bought 2 weeks ago. I can't find any trouble shooting help or explanation of error messages in the program's help section; I have tried most of the trouble shooting steps (other than reinstalling the entire suite) from the knowledge base on the Adobe site without any success; and finally would like someone on this forum to rescue my newly installed Premiere from disaster. Here is my problem:
---- when exporting utilizing the media encoder; after exporting and clicking on the encoder to start , the program would come back with the following error message " PProheadless has encountered an error. [..\..\Src\Remote Import Module. Cpp-250]". I can't find any reference to this error code and how to fix it on the Adobe website. I have tried to fix it for days now without any results. Without being able to fix this my programs are useless to me.
Not finding any reference on the Adobe manual to the error code or how to trouble shoot the program is really demoralizing and disappointing to me. You can see PProHeadless as a program on the computer's hard drive but you won't find any reference to this program throughout the Adobe website.
For reference my hardware specs. are: i7 920 CPU, 6 G DDR3, Asus P6T professional work station main board, 160 G SSD SATA C-Drive, 1 tera byte SATA D and E drives, the GPU is nvidia GTX 285 with 1 GB ram, 1000 Watt power supply in a mini tower, plus Sony Blue ray, OS is Vista 64 premium. The computer is dedicated to editing video. All programs are loaded on C; the D drive is used as working space and virtual ram. E drive is for storage. The only other program running is Avast anti-virus program. The file exporting problem stays even when Avast is uninstalled. All the devise drivers are Vista 64 compatible. The computer is brand new; dedicated to Premiere - not even Microsoft word is loaded.
In addition to the above exporting problem, every time I switch between loaded programs such as between Premiere and Firefox, the cursor would stay in the "wait" mode, i.e. in a spinning circle, for about a minute before turning into an arrow in Premiere. It almost feels like Premiere has to reload the ram all over again; this is really annoying and time wasting.
If I have known of these issues, I would have bought a Mac Pro with Mac software in the first place.
I would really appreciate some help from friends and experts on this forum. Thank you.

Do you have a dynamic or fixed dimension table?
Looks like you have a fixed dimension table here...
Using -> [*] is to specify each instances of that object inside the subform specified... Here if you have more than one PSI into Row5 it would work... But as I understand you have to write only Avg(Row3.PSI, Row4.PSI, Row4.PSI)
If you have a dynamic table and your row is only named Row1... each instances of the row would be Row1[0], Row1[1], Row1[2]
So in your Average function you would only write :
Avg(Row1[*].PSI) and it would return the average of each rows

Iphone 4 not recognized and will not sync after latest itunes update. I have done all trouble shooting and uninstalled and reinstalled itunes to no avail.

iphone 4 not recognized and will not sync after latest itunes update. I have done recommendedl trouble shooting and uninstalled and reinstalled itunes to no avail. Can I go back to earlier version of itunes or restore computer to fix?

'The installer has insufficient privileges to modify this file C:\Program Files (x86)\Common Files\Apple\Apple Application Support\Web kit.resources\inspector\Images\Spinner Inactive Selected.gif.'
That one's consistent with disk/file damage. The first thing I'd try with that is running a disk check (chkdsk) over your C drive.
XP instructions in the following document: How to perform disk error checking in Windows XP
Vista instructions in the following document: Check your hard disk for errors
Windows 7 instructions in the following document: How to use CHKDSK (Check Disk)
Select both Automatically fix file system errors and Scan for and attempt recovery of bad sectors, or use chkdsk /r (depending on which way you decide to go about doing this). You'll almost certainly have to schedule the chkdsk to run on startup. The scan should take quite a while ... if it quits after a few minutes or seconds, something's interfering with the scan.
Does the chkdsk find/repair any damage? If so, can you get an install to go through properly afterwards?

I wanted to trouble shoot, put comupter in safe mode , now its stuck , closed FF 3 times, re-started computer, still in safe mode.how do i get out of safe mode

i wanted to do trouble shooting, i put computer in safe mode & now i can not get out of safe mode. I've closed FF & re-started computer 3 times, even shut down computer, still in safe mode. What do i need to do to get out of safe mode?

Hi,
Please see this article: [[Firefox is stuck in Safe Mode]]
I hope that helps. Post back if not.
--Edward
EDIT: Just noticed that you already rebooted. You say that you "put computer in safe mode". Is firefox in safe mode or your whole computer?
If '''Firefox''' is stuck in safe mode despite reboot
* Check that the shift keys on your keyboard are not stuck down.
* Uninstall firefox and install again (your settings will not be lost as they are stored in your profile folder).
Let me know if neither of those works.

Multiple Take Edits & Trouble Shooting

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