My iPod Touch screen is so sensative that when I have my finger right above the screen, not touching it, it will open the app or click on the letters on the keyboard that I have not touched. How to stop this?
All of a sudden my iPod Touch 4 Gen (got for Christmas in 2012) has started behaving strangely. When I go to type on the virtual keyboard I don't even have to touch the screen and the iTouch starts acting as if it's possessed and will start typing those letters that I'm hovering my finger over ... and it's usually not the letter I want. Has anyone ever had this happen? It's very frustrating.
First make sure your fingers and screen are clean. After that all yo can do is:
Try:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.
If still problem, make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store since it appears you have a hardware problem.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar
Similar Messages
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I need help.
lynus,
The error is the message.
I guess it is one of the Pathfinder options, such as Intersect shape areas.
If you have one path or two non overlapping paths, make suree you change it.
If you have two non locked overlapping paths, something else is wrong. You may try things on the following list.
The following is a general list of things you may try when the issue is not in a specific file (you may have tried/done some of them already); 1) and 2) are the easy ones for temporary strangenesses, and 3) and 4) are specifically aimed at possibly corrupt preferences); 5) is a list in itself, and 6) is the last resort.
1) Close down Illy and open again;
2) Restart the computer (you may do that up to 3 times);
3) Close down Illy and press Ctrl+Alt+Shift/Cmd+Option+Shift during startup (easy but irreversible);
4) Move the folder (follow the link with that name) with Illy closed (more tedious but also more thorough and reversible);
5) Look through and try out the relevant among the Other options (follow the link with that name, Item 7) is a list of usual suspects among other applications that may disturb and confuse Illy, Item 15) applies to CC, CS6, and maybe CS5);
Even more seriously, you may:
6) Uninstall, run the Cleaner Tool (if you have CS3/CS4/CS5/CS6/CC), and reinstall.
http://www.adobe.com/support/contact/cscleanertool.html -
Everytime I open my laptop, Lightroom opens and tries to import photos from my external drive. Is there a default I need to change?
Thanks in advance for any help.Error -36 is, as X423424X says, a generic I/O error. It doesn't say anything about what caused the error, or indeed where it occurred (source or target).
You have to describe exactly your action when the error occurs. Is the ext'l drive you mentioned formatted as NTFS (Win default file system)? Without additional software, Mac OS X cannot write to NTFS, it can only read from it. -
RAW images in Lightroom aren't opening in camera raw in Photoshop. Instead, I have to open the image in Finder before it will open in Camera Raw in Photoshop. How can I correct that?
Your question is a little unclear. In a "normal" Lightroom/Photoshop workflow the raw images do not open from Lightroom into Camera Raw. Lightroom has all of the Camera Raw functionality in the develop module. When you choose to open an image in Photoshop, and Lightroom and Photoshop are synchronized (i.e. referencing the same version of Camera Raw) then Camera Raw is simply used to interpret the Lightroom adjustments as the image is transferred to Photoshop. If Camera Raw is an older version then Lightroom offers you the choice to open the image or create a PSD or TIF file that includes all of the Lightroom adjustments. But in either case, opening in Camera Raw is not part of the workflow. It is possible to open the image as a smart object or convert the image to the smart object in Photoshop and then open it in Camera Raw. That is done from within Photoshop or is one of the open options in Lightroom. If you choose to go the smart object route the image first has to be opened in Photoshop and then from there you can open it in Camera Raw.
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When iTunes is not connected to internet it keeps on displaying a message that "iTunes couldn't connect to the store" whenever i open it. How to stop this message being displayed?
guyz... do look into this...
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My daughter has an iphone 5s and I have her old 3GS. She receives all my imessages that I rcv or send to other people. Can anyone advise how to stop this? we have removed the 3gs from her itunes account but it hasn't stopped the issue.
There are a lot of posts in the forums today with people having problems with iMessage. There was also a published outage yesterday, so it's possible there are still some issues that may be impacting you both.
I would just wait it out - I'm sure it will be sorted out soon. -
I am concerned that my new mac screen seems to snaps a pic when I am on certain web sites,I then notice that the "preview" is tagged on. Could someone please explain let me know what may be happening and how to stop this?
Hey Dollydayle,
The steps in this link can help you with moving your music to your new computer, with several options you can choose from that best suit your needs:
iTunes: How to move your music to a new computer
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4527
Welcome to Apple Support Communities!
All the best,
Delgadoh -
I have just rceived an upgrade to an iPhone 3GS. Now, when I visit the Store all the prices are in US dollars, not a big problem but I cannot edit my card details or contact to a UK address. I cannot see how to change this.
Hi Roger
Thank you for your reply.
My original feed is: http://casa-egypt.com/feed/
However, because I modified the feed http://feeds.feedburner.com/imananddinasbroadcast and nothing changed, I redirected it to another feed and then I deleted this feed.
Is there any way to change the feed in itunes? The only feed I have now is http://feeds.feedburner.com/CasaEgyptStation
I tried to restore the feed http://feeds.feedburner.com/imananddinasbroadcast but feedburner refused.
I know that I missed things up but I still have hope in working things out.
Thanks is advance.
Dina
Message was edited by: dinadik -
Hi! I've just purchased an iPhone 5S but whenever I text people with iPhones it sends from my iCloud account. This means that my email comes up for other people not my name/number which is really frustrating! Does anyone know how to stop this?
Go into Settings>Messages>Send and Receive> Is your phone number checked there? If you do not want your email used, then tap on them and remove the checkmark. If there is no checkmark by your phone number, then turn iMessage off, perform a reset on the phone, hold the sleep/wake and home buttons together until you see the Apple logo and then release. The phone will reboot. Turn iMessage on. When it activates, check your settings again under Send and Receive and make sure the number is checked and the emails are not.
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I have a ipod 5 and its not working and i will like to get it fixed and i want to see if i still have my warranty
Check Your Service and Support Coverage: Apple - Support
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I tried to import a perfectly crisp unpixelated screen recording to iMovie and when it imported it became very pixelated and fuzzy I tried exporting it but it was still fuzzy! I looked back at the original recording that wasnt imported and it wasnt fuzzy.
I solved it. When I imported I hit the optimise large button instead just stay to the original.
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Hey Guys i have a problem with my mac since last month and it wont boot up it freezes in a grey apple logo and and spinning gear any body know how to fix this?
Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a boot failure is to secure your data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since your last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to boot. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Boot into Recovery by holding down the key combination command-R at the startup chime, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) Release the keys when you see a gray screen with a spinning dial. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in the support article linked below, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.”
How to back up and restore your files
b. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, boot the non-working Mac in target disk mode by holding down the key combination command-T at the startup chime. Connect the two Macs with a FireWire or Thunderbolt cable. The internal drive of the machine running in target mode will mount as an external drive on the other machine. Copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
How to use and troubleshoot FireWire target disk mode
c. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to boot, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can boot now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Before reconnecting an external storage device, make sure that your internal boot volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Step 3
Boot in safe mode.* The instructions provided by Apple are as follows:
Shut down your computer, wait 30 seconds, and then hold down the shift key while pressing the power button.
When you see the gray Apple logo, release the shift key.
If you are prompted to log in, type your password, and then hold down the shift key again as you click Log in.
Safe mode is much slower to boot and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
*Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the boot volume is a software RAID, you can’t boot in safe mode. Post for further instructions.
When you boot in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, your boot volume is damaged and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to step 5.
If you can boot and log in now, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on your boot volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then reboot as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the boot process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 4
Sometimes a boot failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 5
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see above for instructions.) Select your startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it produces. Look for the line "Permissions repaired successfully" at the end of the output. Then reboot as usual.
Step 6
Boot into Recovery again. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, follow the prompts to reinstall the OS. If your Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Note: You need an always-on Ethernet or Wi-Fi connection to the Internet to use Recovery. It won’t work with USB or PPPoE modems, or with proxy servers, or with networks that require a certificate for authentication.
Step 7
Repeat step 6, but this time erase the boot volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically reboot into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer your data from a backup.
Step 8
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested. -
Hi, my Ipod Schuffle (4 gen) dissapears from windows vista right after I execute Itunes, I've change the drive letter, erase temps in App data file, verified USB drivers, etc... Can someone guide on how to solve this?
If you want the shuffle to be always visible in Windows (outside of iTunes), you need to Enable disk use.
Select the shuffle in the iTunes sidebar, under DEVICES. Over to the right, select the Summary tab. You should see a checkbox that says Enable disk use. Check it and click Apply.
NOTE: If disk use is enabled, you have to Eject the shuffle in iTunes, BEFORE you physically disconnect it. If disk use is NOT enabled, you can disconnect the shuffle at any time, as long as iTunes is not doing something with it at that moment (such as syncing); the shuffle's light will then be blinking (to indicate DO NOT DISCONNECT).
So, unless you want to use the shuffle like a USB flash drive (carry random files on it), you may want to NOT Enable disk use. -
My iPad 2 only keeps a set number of emails for me to view eventually deleting from the screen. How do stop this as it syncs with my phone and mac book pro neither of which do this?
Thanks for that. Much more constructive than the last comment. It's only the restriction code I can't recall, not the access passcode. So I can currently access the device, just not age restricted content. Does that's make a difference? I also wondered if anyone knew how many attempts you get to try to get it right. Now tried 21 times and so far nothing bad has happened but I am concerned I'll eventually be completely locked out of the device. That doesn't seem in the spirit of things though. Surely it's foreseeable that a child could repeatedly try to guess the code so I can't see that it would be right to lock the device down completely in that circumstance, particularly if the access code is being typed in correctly every time.
Thanks -
I have been sampling new imported drum loops. And if I adjust region to song or time strecth it updates the audio file in the library. How to stop this? I lost the original setting to one loop. automatically doing it ??
This "original file cannot be found" thing happens if the file is no longer where iTunes expects to find it. Possible causes are that you or some third party tool has moved, renamed or deleted the file, or that the drive it lives on has had a change of drive letter. It is also possible that iTunes has changed from expecting the files to be in the pre-iTunes 9 layout to post-iTunes 9 layout,or vice-versa, and so is looking in slightly the wrong place.
Select a track with an exclamation mark, use Ctrl-I to get info, then cancel when asked to try to locate the track. Look on the summary tab for the location that iTunes thinks the file should be. Now take a look around your hard drive(s). Hopefully you can locate the track in question. If a section of your library has simply been moved, or a drive letter has changed, it should be possible to reverse the actions.
Alternatively, as long as you can find a location holding the missing files, then you should be able to use my FindTracks script to reconnect them to iTunes .
tt2
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