New iMac 24" pixel pitch?

The new iMac puts 1920x1200 pixeles in 24". One of the cinema displays puts 1920x1200 in 23". If aspect ratio is the same, then the iMac display's pixel pitch should be not as good as the cinema display or perhaps even the 20" iMac. Is this correct? If so, 24" owners, does it make a noticeable difference? Thanks

24" vs 23" - .2692 vs .258, or a difference of 4 percent
Personal computer users will usually want a .28 pixel pitch or finer (lower number), and on that comparison, if your measurements of 23" and 24" are accurate, both displays are superior to the majority of displays in use.
Do you believe 4 percent to be noticeable? Those ratios are both within the comfortable range.
It is hard for me to believe that 23" and 24" are the exact measurements, anyway.
What are the exact measurements of the displays to which you are referring? With that infomation the pixel pitch can be more accurately calculated.
Message was edited by: myhighway
Message was edited by: myhighway

Similar Messages

  • New 2.4GHz Imac Dead Pixels

    I know dead pixels are always an issue. I purchased a PSP and went through the dead pixel exchange over 12 times. I was lucky to get an iphone with no dead pixels, but now I decided to get my first mac. Since the new iMAC came out I decided to get one. I was going to get the mac mini, but when I saw the imac and the power you get for the price I was hooked.
    Anyway I believe I have a defective screen and I think it is just going to get worse. At first the screen did not have any dead pixels, but after about 3 hours of use the first day I noticed a subpixel suddenly was now black. It looks like it is the green subpixel since that is the only color it cannot display. So I said to myself okay I can deal with one dead subpixel since it is on the dock and just placed photo booth over it and I couldn't see it and would be happy with it. Ignorance is bliss. But now the second day I was using the imac and then suddenly 4 more black pixels came near the top left area of the imac. So that is 5 dead pixels now it two days.
    Has anybody had good experiences with returning their mac with dead pixels on their screen? I hoping 5 or more dead pixels is enough, but wanted to get a feel from the forums if I will be just wasting my time or if there is good chance they will replace my imac. Of course I am worried once I return it I will be going through this 12 times like I did with the PSP. Any thoughts?

    Okay I guess the last 4 were not dead, but stuck because I was showing my fiance the dead pixels and I showed her the one on the dock, which is still black, and then I showed her the 4 at the top left. So we decided to scroll through the desktop wallpaper (I had the default blue wallpaper on when the dead pixels appeared) and suddenly the 4 at the top left area disappeared once I went back to the default blue wallpaper. Not sure if they are going to show up again, but as of right now they are not there anymore. I hope they are gone for good. Maybe I wil get lucky and eventually the one at the bottom on the dock will light up again. I will keep my fingers crossed. So I guess a suggestion to those who may experience what I just did, try chaning your wallpaper and see if that makes the pixels come back and if that doesn't work then you can try those popular pixel fixers.
    I will update if more dead or stuck pixels appear or the others come back. I am now not sure if my screen is considered defective or just a late bloomer. I don't want to be a complainer I just want higher standards when it comes to QOS.
    Message was edited by: MichaelTosh
    Message was edited by: MichaelTosh
    Message was edited by: MichaelTosh

  • New iMac plays iTunes videos with pixels, like snow on a TV

    I have a brand new iMac and all the video played via iTunes shows pixels during play, kind of like snow on a TV.  I did not experience this on my older macbook where I played the same videos.  Anyone else find this or have a suggestion to fix it?  I'm running iTunes 10.6.1 on both.

    Install OSX Restrictions
    Try a virtual machine.
    Parallels
    VirtualBox
    VM Fusion
    Snow Leopard server for use with the above. Call 1-800-692-7753 and order part number MC588Z/A. Cost is $19.99 + sales tax and shipping.
    Virtual Machine for 10.7/10.8

  • 20-inch Intel Core 2 Duo pixel pitch

    Can anyone tell me what the pixel pitch is on the new 20" iMac?
    Thanks.

    You mean pixel resolution of the iMac's display?
    17-inch - 1440x900
    20-inch - 1680x1050
    24-inch - 1920x1200
    All located on Apple's store/Tech specs for the iMac.
    -benny

  • If 1.1 froze your new iMac, dont' give up yet - try this first

    +If your aluminum iMac gave you problems before the Firmware Update v1.1, this is not the thread for you.+
    But if your new iMac was fine out of the box, and fine after Update 1.0, _but became problematic after 1.1_, read on.
    This was my case - all was well up until a few days after the 1.1 update. Then the following happened sporadically, leading to several power-button shutdowns.
    · endless blue screen on startup after the gray apple but before the login window
    · funny display artifacts - incorrect pixels, section waviness, discolored blocks
    · display freeze out of nowhere - everything but the mouse cursor "stuck" forever
    Some say to return or replace the whole iMac at the Apple Store. Others say to Archive (or Erase) & Install OS X from the original DVDs. Before doing any of that, and assuming you've completed the obvious (deleting suspect .PLIST files, reversed any recent hardware or non-Apple software changes, etc.), try the following first. You have nothing to lose except a little bit of time.
    Step "Zero" is to reboot the computer into Safe Mode and backup your important data.
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107393
    http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107392
    Step 1 is to rollback your iMac's firmware to 1.0, while still in Safe Mode, as follows.
    http://www.macfixit.com/article.php?story=20070924095738296
    (find the list numbered 1-6 under "Solution")
    Step 2 is to make sure Step 1 takes effect:
    · (still in Safe Mode) Delete the 1.1 Receipt from Macintosh HD/Library/Receipts/
    · Shutdown and reset the SMC: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303446
    · Power-on and reset PRAM: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=2238
    · Reboot from the Tiger install DVDs, run Disk Utility, and perform Repair Disk (likely needed after power-button shutdowns)
    · Quit the Installer, Restart (a normal one), login and Repair Disk Permissions using Disk Utility
    · Manually run all CRON jobs - "sudo periodic _" {daily,weekly,monthly} in Terminal
    · Shutdown, reconnect anything still disconnected, and power-on as normal
    Step 3 is to use your iMac like you used to and check to see if any problems return.
    Step 4 is to use your hopefully now-stable iMac to inform Apple and its boss about this unacceptable situation:
    http://www.apple.com/feedback/imac.html
    [email protected]
    My iMac has been good as new for 48 hours now. In that time, I have rolled over the Dock rapidly and repeatedly, played 1080p trailers in QuickTime, and extensively used iPhoto and iTunes. (Before the rollback, as little as a magnified Dock icon would cause a freeze, anywhere from 5-30 minutes after logging in, assuming I even made it to the login screen.)
    If the above still doesn't work, then you should Archive & Install OS X, and reapply all updates except 1.1. If the problems continue, Erase & Install OS X + the same drill on updates. +If there's still no luck, then+ I'm afraid you're out of luck and need to exchange your iMac.
    But I'm willing to bet it won't come to that.

    illy5603 wrote:
    Just an update to report that I ran through this whole thing and my symptoms persist, even when in safe mode. I am pretty sure my problem is hardware, it isn't the same lock up problem everyone is having, that was my first iMac, I am having the weird blue vertical line problem that is posted in the Macbook pro forum (but on my iMac).
    Wow, that's something totally different from the 1.1-freeze issue. I've not heard about that on the iMacs until now.

  • Optimizing work flow in FCP on new iMac? (dropped frames)

    Hello-
    I've recently purchased a new iMac, first in about 6 years. I'm looking for some advice about optimizing my work flow in FCP. I am largely self-taught, using FCP for hobbyist/amateur video.
    Until this new computer, I have been using FCP on other people's Macs (schools, arts institutions, etc), only resorting to my old Powerbook when absolutely necessary. So I have not had to worry about performance issues until now.
    I am shooting on a Kodak Zi8 pocket cam in 1080p HD .MOV files, 1920x1080 H.264, AAC audio.
    In my first attempts at editing the footage, I find that I am getting dropped frames on playback at every edit point - any time I cut between shots, add titles, etc.
    (I also tried editing some much smaller, compressed files (QT 854x480, H.264, AAC audio) in the timeline and had the frame drop problem.)
    Also, when I add titles, they do not preview render - I have to render them completely to be able to playback.
    When I allow FCP to change the sequence settings to match the clip, I get the following:
    1920 x 1080
    Aspect: HDTV 1080i (16:9)
    Pixel Aspect: Square
    Field Dominance: Upper (Odd)
    Editing Timebase: 29.97
    In this instance I am editing footage that is stored on the local HD, but I have also tried editing footage from a USB 2.0 external drive, and got the same dropped frame problem.
    ...its a little frustrating to get these performance issues on this new computer, so I hope that someone here can help me resolve some of my problems. Hopefully this is a work flow issue, but if its a lack of hardware, well, shame on me for not looking into it enough.
    thanks in advance.

    Hi -
    H.264 is a recording and delivery format, but as you have discovered, it is very difficult to edit. Its qualities of recording a high quality image in a small file size, which make it attractive for use in Flash based camcorders, makes it very difficult for FCP to work with. Attempting to work in H.264 makes FCP drop frames, require constant rendering, etc.
    The best solution is to convert your footage to an edit friendly file format, such a ProRes LT or AIC. There will be minimal impact on the quality of the image. This conversion will result in files that are much larger than your original files, but will work easily in FCP.
    You don't say if you have FCS or just FCP, but if you do have FCS then you can use Compressor to do the conversion.
    Hope this helps.

  • Why is Best for Display setting in new iMac with Retina 5K Display only 2560 x 1440?

    I just saw the new iMac with 5K Retina Display. It's awesome! I do have one question, though: The default (Best for Display) resolution is 2560 x 1440. That is the same as my current LED Cinema Display. Adjusting the scale in the System Preferences/Display settings maxes out at 3200 x1800, not 5120 x 2880. I'm not sure why the highest scale option isn't the full resolution of the display. Can anyone explain this or direct me to an article that does?

    That got my curiosity too. It's something about the retinas pixel density per inch being higher than other displays, such as a Cinema HD.
    The "Best (Retina)" option says "Looks like 2560 x 1440" when you roll over it, but the real pixel density is actually doubled I think, so 5120 x 2880.
    The "Looks like..." phrase seems to refer to the size of elements on the screen rather than actual pixels. Perhaps that's what some folks call virtual pixels.

  • New IMac GeForce 8800 GS Graphics card is really GeForce 8800M GTS

    After calling NVIDIA I've finally discovered what this graphics card REALLY is.
    This card is NOT the GeForce GS that was recently renamed to 9600 GSO. That card has 384 MB GDDR3 Memory with 550 Core Speed.
    The new IMac GeForce is 8800M GTS.
    Heres some specs on the new card:
    Pipelines 64 - unified
    Core Speed 500 MHz
    Memory Speed 800 MHz
    Memory Bus Width 256 Bit
    Memory Type GDDR3
    Max.Memory 512 MB
    Shared Memory No
    DirectX DirectX 10, Shader 4.0
    Power Consump 35 Watt
    Transistors Million
    Features 1250 MHz Shader clock, Pure Video technology (H.264, VC-1, MPEG2, WMV9 decoder acceleration), HDCP-capable, PowerMizer 7.0 energy management (dynamic switching between performance and energy saving), HDR (high dynamic-range lighting), designed for Windows Vista, Dual-Link DVI-D exits for resolutions from TFT up to 2560x1600, PCI-E 16x, OpenGL 2.1, Gigathread technology.
    Anyway, hope this clears up some confusion for people. I know it baffled me for a good few.

    Heres another useful link:
    http://www.techpowerup.com/gpuz/43pxg/
    Card Name: NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GS
    Owner's Comments:24 inch iMac, 3.06 Ghz C2D, 8800GS 512 DDR3, 2 Gig 800 Mhz Ram, 500 Gig HD
    GPU: G92 M Revision: A2
    Technology: 65 nm Die Size: 330 mm²
    BIOS Version: 62.92.27.00.12 Device ID: 10DE - 0609
    Bus Interface: PCI-E x16 @ x16 Subvendor: Apple Computer (106B)
    ROPs: 16 Shaders: 64 (DX 10.0)
    Pixel Fillrate: 0.0 GPixel/s Texture Fillrate: 0.0 GTexel/s
    Memory Type: GDDR3 Bus Width: 256 bit
    Memory Size: 512 MB Bandwidth: 0.0 GB/s
    Driver: nvlddmkm 7.15.11.6763 (ForceWare 167.63) / Vista
    GPU Clock: 0 MHz 0 MHz
    Default Clock: 500 MHz 799 MHz 1250 MHz
    Overclock: - - -

  • New Imac screen flicker when dimmed down

    Hi guys, I got my new Imac about a week ago, aside from the whistling and dead pixels in the isight, are any of you guys getting screens that are sort of flickering when you start to dim them down. The light dims and filckers very quickly. It's kind of looks like the old CRT's at a slow refresh rate and is becoming really annoying. I was wondering if this is normal for all the Imacs. I'll be getting a replacement because of the dead pixels in my Isight, but this will also be something to look for in the new one. So it'll be good to know if it is normal.

    Well, this is definitely a hardware defect and it appears to be wide spread. I took my iMac back to the Apple store today and the Tech saw the problem too and exchanged it for a new one (since it was within 14 days). Well, got that one home, and it had the same flicker issue. Two hours later back at the Apple Store, they saw the issue with the replacement machine too, but not with any of their floor models. So, they took that one back too and are doing a writeup to send it back to Apple so they can diagnose the problem.
    The replacement iMac they brought out for me this time we setup in the store and confirmed did not have the display flicker issue when the backlight was all the way down.
    So my suggestion is if you have this issue, take it into the Apple Store and have them replace it or repair it.

  • New iMac Display Sizes

    I'm ready to buy one of the new iMac models but when looking at the current 20", 24" monitors, I think the 24" is the largest I can comfortable accommodate on my desk.
    I note that the newly released iMac is available as a 21.5" or a 27" in a 16:9 ratio. What was the old ratio, or better yet, is the viewable screen size of a new 27" the same as the old 24" or is it larger?
    If the new sizes equal the viewable sizes of the old iMac screens then I can accommodate a 27" model on my desk. If it is larger, I'll have to get a 21.5".
    Thanks
    kayjh

    Again, the important thing is pixel count. A 50-inch HDTV may have a physically larger display, but it only has 1920x1080 pixels (the same as the 21.5-inch new iMac). Larger pixels does not let you do more with your computer, MORE pixels does.
    You can figure out the pixel density this way. Using the [Pythagorean theorem|http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_theorem],
    !http://upload.wikimedia.org/math/1/4/5/1455314a78f39a594485adbaf74d63f9.png!
    figure out how many pixels go along th diagonal. You know a (2560) and b (1440), so you can figure out c. I get 2937 pixels along the diagonal. That diagonal is 27 inches, so the pixel density (pixels per inch) is 2937 divided by 27, or about 109 ppi.
    For the 24-inch display, using the same math, it is only about 94 ppi.
    So objects on the new display will look about 10% smaller than they would look on the old display. The new display will also look more sharp for the same reason. And as I mentioned above, the new display has 60% more pixels to work with compared to the old display.

  • Comparing focus of new iMac's internal iSight video

    I have a new iMac. When I view iSight's live feed in, say, Photo Booth or iMovie, it seems like the focus is not very sharp.
    I've tried the suggestions in Apple's tech note on iSight.
    Here are a few shots (posted to Picasa) I took. This is with artificial light, as it is late at night:
    http://picasaweb.google.com/lagouyn/UntitledAlbum?feat=directlink
    Daytime/natural light results are, to me, similarly blurry.
    Maybe I'm expecting too much? Could I ask new iMac users to check out the photos above and compare with your iSight video quality.
    Could you also post examples of your built-in iSight image quality? (To capture an image, I used utilities/Grab and did Capture>Selection, then saved to disk and uploaded to Picasa.
    Thanks very much.
    -Allan

    One added thought, -Allan, if you do not already know about the following.
    (If you are an imaging pro who could be teaching me about this, please excuse my attempt to help.)
    I can see that image quality for your viewers is important to you.
    For uploads of images whose quality is particularly important to you, you may want consider using PNG format, TIFF format, or some other low/no compression image file format rather than the JPEG image format that you chose for your upload in this topic.
    You noted the "dithered/pixelated quality" of the gif format sample image I had uploaded in another thread. While highly compressed GIF images certainly suffer more quality loss than moderately compressed JPGs, PNG or TIFF can reduce compression loss even further.
    JPEG can offer control over how much compression you apply when saving your image. However, other file formats like PNG or TIFF can further reduce quality loss by not applying as much compression for those image where you consider quality to be critical in your viewed images.
    Jim
    G5 DP 1.8GHz w/Mac OS X (10.5.6) PowerBook 1.67GHz (10.4.11)   iBookSE 366MHz (10.3.9)  External iSight

  • New IMAC but Photoshop running slow

    Hi There
    Could some one help me? I just brought a brand new IMAC 21.5" the base model (NVIDIA GeForce 9400M graphics) with 4 gb RAM. I downloaded the trial version of adobe cs5 to check if it runs ok but when I am starting things from scratch like just creating things from a blank canvas it runs so slow like trying to paint stuff and render it comes up with a loading screen it just doesn’t do it straight away. But when I am working on photos it seems to run ok. Is there away to solve this issue? Do I need to updated my RAM to make it run smooth?

    The mostly likely reason Photoshop will run slow is insufficient RAM and since you downloaded the demo, you got the extended version which is a huge memory hog. I found it slow on my similarly configured notebook but the regular version runs just fine for me.
    What does seem odd though is that you say it isn't slow on photos, just when you are starting from a blank slate. So I'm thinking - check the pixel size and resolution of your default blank document and compare to a loaded photo. Is the size and resolution of your blank document larger? I'm guessing it might be. That points to RAM again but if you don't need that big a document or that resolution you can reduce it.

  • What I Learned About Transferring Stuff To A New iMac

    Just got the new 21.5" iMac with Fusion drive.  First time that I ever attempted transferring from the old to the new.  I wanted my excel/word docs and photos in particular to transfer.  That was my main goal anyhow.  But on the prompts from the new computer I transferred the whole shebang, not exactly knowing what the whole shebang would be....the only broad categories given by the system at the time were Users, Settings, Documents, and I think one more thing I cannot recall.  Had the option to check or uncheck the four boxes, they were pre-checked by apple, I assumed this was the common thing to do so I just did it.
    I was going to use Numbers this time on this computer and avoid having Microsoft Office for Mac on the computer and all of its trash program...well...all that transferred over....so now Excel 2008 works, which is a good thing, but I  know I have the undesirable files loaded too...not happy with that but it is what it is.
    Makes me wonder what other things were on old computer I could have lived without on new....on a side note, right after the computer sprung to life and said it was ready to go it gave me a message the Flipmac4 was not the right version or something.  Not sure how much it is needed or if it is outdated.  I think it has something to do with watching videos.  Perhaps I can uninstall it permanently and still watch Youtube and other vids.  Anyone know about this please pitch in.
    It is nice to have all the photos and documents transfer over seemlessly like they did I just wish there was a way to be more selective in the process maybe I would have nixed Microsoft Office for Mac and other thing...I dunno....not really complaining just expressing what I have learned today....Please respond with things I might have done better if you know of anything so next time, maybe another three years from now ha ha, I can be better at it....
    THANKS ALL!
    PS, even the passords for the internet apparently transferred....like when I went to sign on the apple communities the user ID and password were already pre-filled with my data.

    I would first go through Setup Assistant (which opens automatically) without migrating anything. Run Software Update to install the latest updates from Apple, but otherwise use the iMac +as is+ for a while. When you are satisfied that it is working 100% perfectly, you can run Migration Assistant from Applications/Utilities/. This way, if you have a problem, it will be easier to troubleshoot.
    Note: Since this is a refurb iMac, it is possible that it will have Leopard pre-installed instead of Snow Leopard. It should come with a disc for upgrading to Snow Leopard, if Leopard is pre-installed. If that is the case with this refurb, you should upgrade to Snow Leopard and test run it for a while before migrating the user data from the G5.
    In Migration Assistant, you will be asked to select the data source. You can connect the two Mac, but you can also use that external drive with the clone. If that external drive is FireWire 400, you will need a cable that goes from FireWire 800 (9-pin) to FireWire 400 (6-pin), for example
    http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/1394B96036/
    because the new iMac will only have FireWire 800 (if it's the early 2009 model). If the drive has USB 2.0, you can connect it that way to the new iMac. The option in Migration Assistant is +From Time Machine backup or other disk+. The external drive clone is the "other disk."
    Then, Migration Assistant will ask what to migrate. Here, you should select to migrate only Users. Do not select +Applications, Settings, or Other...+ This will migrate user data from the old installation and leave everything else alone.
    That is the easiest way. You can also connect the external drive clone and use Finder to copy the files over manually. That's the way I usually do it myself, so that I have more control over what gets transferred.

  • Disappointed with the new iMac 2011

    I bought a new iMac 21.5 inch 2011 model replacing my plastic iMac. When I first bought it, I was very excited because it got all the top reviews.
    Then, my first iMac had 2 dead pixels on the top of the screen, it was very annoying so I got an exchange. The second one have no screen issues, but it has very annoying buzzing sound from the top of the back panel. Then I get the third exchange, and this one still has the annoying buzzing sound from the bottom part of the panel, and a notable dust particles trapped inside the screen encasing. I went to the apple store several times, they are saying they won't do any more exchange, and the buzzing sound is not noticable and it is the part of the nature of iMac.
    I am very disappointed with this iMac model, I am wondering if any other users have similar experience with the new iMac.
    Thanks for forum administrator keeping this post.

    I am like many users who wanted a machine for media development, wow, the Mac has a reputation for being good at that. However, I'm one who has had problems. I have never actually hated a machine before now. I am unable to multi-task, I have no software available for development except for the xcode IDE which changes weekly, rendering all highly expensive books and classes obsolete and useless within a week of purchase.
    Also, if you want to multi-task, I'm unable to load multiple tabs or browser windows without this machine halting to a crawl. I've spent at least a total of 20 hours on the phone with idiots who barely speak english to help me out. I've spent at least three full Saturdays at the so-called genius bar in town. I cannot load more than one application at a time and get decent performance. OMG, apple has set me back decades.
    Many will say this is probably due to my ISP. NO. I have my trusty HP machine here and I can actually boot it up and load the browser (IE) in the time it takes for an already booted iMac with Safari with a linked clicked before. So the ISP is great. It's the iMac that *****.
    One good thing that has come from this peice of sht though. It is a true test of my restraint and tolerance for crap.
    I am actually now willing to give up apple development altogether because of the poor performance and lack of decent software for the same.
    I am now able to say good riddence APPLE! This is NOT the direction I am headed.
    That is all I have to say.

  • My brand new iMac (late 2012, 27") has a little scratch or something on the screen

    I just bought a new imac 27", later half hour of use I noticed it has a little scratch on the screen, not on the front glass but behind it. too strange to be some dead pixel. Someone can tell me what is? Do AppleCare cover this? If they do, has to be exchange the whole machine or just the display? here is some picture:

    It looks to me like a row of pixels but in any event you must return it within the 14 day period (or at least have a formally confirmed agreement that you will be doing this).   The latter applies if you live too far away from a suitable returns venue and it has to be returned by carrier.   Usually all carriage costs are covered.

Maybe you are looking for