New iMac too slow to use Word - can it be fixed or should I get my money back ?

Just bought an iMac to replace my PC and find that it cannot run Word 2011.
Even the most basic things -such as transforming key strokes into text on screen take seconds. Formatting takes an age.
I see numerous other postings with the same problem - but no solutions - only other 'users' saying that they have no problem.
It seems to me that this is such a serious defect that the computer is not actually fit for purpose. Before I take it back to the shop and ask for it to be replaced has anyone out there got a solution. ?
thanks in advance
Charlesß

The only sultion is to Wipe the drive and reinstall Mt Lion as sometimes the factory install isn't right.
But in the end you should not have to do that on a NEW system. So If it were me I'd take it back for a refund and either get another or something else.

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How can I complaint about an App and get my money back?

First Contact the Developer of the App.
If necessary...Contact iTunes Customer Service and request assistance
Use this Link > Apple Support iTunes Store Contact

Can i return my ipod touch and get my money back

can i return my ipod touch and get my money back?

Maybe:
If you want to return an item, you can ship the item back to Apple, or bring it to any U.S. Apple Store for a full refund. For eligible Mac, iPad, iPod, and third-party products, you have up to 14 calendar days from the time you receive your item(s) to initiate a return.
Items ineligible for a return include:
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Apple Gift Cards
Apple Gift Packaging (origami style gift box with ribbon and greeting card)
Apple Developer Connection Products (Membership and Technical Support)
* You may return software after rejecting the licensing terms, provided the software is not installed on a computer. However, software that contains a printed software license may not be returned if the seal or sticker on the software media packaging is broken.
http://store.apple.com/us/help/returns_refund

Payed twice for the same App. How can this be and how do I get my money back?

Hello!
I had a MBP and downloaded Adobe Photoshop. I paid for it. Then I had to set up the whole MBP again and Adobe was gone of course.
I downloaded it again. Thinking, I wouldn't have to pay this time.
But I had to!!
Now that I would need the Photoshop again to have on MBA. Afraid to download because I might have to pay...again....
How can something like this happen und how do I get the money back?
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If you bought a download of Photoshop, you bought it from Adobe because Photoshop is not sold in the Mac App Store (MAS). You need to talk directly with Adobe about this issue.
However, if what you actually bought was Adobe Photoshop Elements from the MAS, whenever you need to redownload the app, you do so by opening the MAS, signing into your account (Store menu), going to the Purchases pane and redownloading from your list of purchases.
You might want to learn more about using a Mac and OS X.
http://www.apple.com/support/macbasics/

HT202853 I have many project made in move HD that are not updating to the new iMovie 10 on my new iMac. Why is this not working as stated? How do I get my projects back from backup after old iMac crashed?

I have many projects made in imovie HD that are not updating to iMovie 10 on my new iMac. Why is this not working as stated on the article HT202853? How do I get my projects back from backup after old iMac crashed?

According to:
Update projects and events from previous versions of iMovie in iMovie (2014) - Apple Support
you can update from iMovie versions 7, 8 and 9, but iMovie HD is iMovie 6.
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Geoff.

This does not accept Raw, which I did not know at the time of purchase. I use a DSLR with Magic Lantern firmware so can take Raw vids. Is there a work round our should I get my money back and find a version that does?

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Timing
I am not sure what is going on behind the scenes with this web site in the past few days. One day I could not post in your thread at all. Another day
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in my Inbox email notifications. I was waiting for the problem to disappear on its own. If not, we can post in the Adobe Comments Forum to find out what
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https://forums.adobe.com/community/general/forum_comments
Yours has not been the only thread where I have had these problems.
ATR

Mauled by Lion: all my MS Office apps now UNUSEABLE. Can I get my money back from Apple, who didn't bother telling me before I purchased?

Apple NEVER BOTHERED TO SAY THAT ALL POWERPC APPS DO NOT WORK ON LION.
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HOW DO I GET MY MONEY BACK?

Hello:
From your post, you must be using Office 2004 (I was) and the version is only supported under OS X 10.6 and earlier. The reason is that Rosetta is not included in OS X 10.7. Out of curiosity, why do you blame Apple for the fact that a seven year old MICROSOFT software release does not work on Apple's new operating system? Microsoft's later releases (Office 2008 and 2011) do run, I understand, under OS X 10.7. I decided to not buy the pricey software and am using Apple's iWork instead.
Barry
Message was edited by: Barry Hemphill

If I can't buy apps with ituned card in Canada - how do I get my money back

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your out of luck
use them to buy Music, Movies, TV, or audio books
it is well covered on the net and in the TOU for iTunes Canada and in Apple online store (iTunes section).

Can you delete an item from itunes and get your money back???

hi!!! can u please tell me if you can delete an item from itunes and get your money back???
Thanks XD

You can certainly delete it, but you won't get your money back.
Stedman

I'm trying to set up a dual monitor for my new iMac. I'm using a second display I used with my old G5. My iMac recognizes the second monitor but the monitor won't turn on. Power button doesn't do anything on the monitor itself.

I'm trying to set up a dual monitor for my new iMac. I'm using a second display I used with my old G5. My iMac recognizes the second monitor but the monitor won't turn on. Power button doesn't do anything on the monitor itself.

If it won't turn on then the monitor is dead (power supply?, video circuits?). Not worth repairing.
If you have a new iMac then it has thunderbolt. So exactly what is that monitor you are trying to connect? For TB you can connect a mini-displayport monitor. Probably (not 100% sure with TB) can use dvi or vga too if you have the appropriate adapter.

Lightroom 2.4 Is Too Slow To Use As A Professional Product

Hello -
I would like to know how to get Lightroom to respond in less than 4-8 seconds for almost any task.
From returning to Grid mode (4.5 seconds) to adjusting a routine crop and angle (5-7 seconds per move, 60-90 seconds total) to simply shift-selecting three to fifty photos (4-9 seconds) no matter what I do in Lightroom, it is worse that Photoshop 1.0 on a Mac Plus. Really.
Returning to Lightroom from another app - 7 seconds.
Getting the menus to drop down - 4 seconds.
My lightroom settings:
standard preview size: 1680
Quality: High
Discard 1:1: Never
write changes to XMP: off
Catalog: 127 mb on F drive (24 gig free)
Catalog: 13.5k photos, 95 gig on F drive
Cache: 6 gig on F drive
NVIDIA settings: performance over quality
My computer:
HP 8730 elitebook
4 gig ram
XP Pro, SP2
Proc: Core 2 Duo T9400, 2666 MHz (10 x 267)
DirectX 4.09.00.0904 (DirectX 9.0c)
Chipset: Cantiga PM45
Video: NVIDIA Quadro FX 3700M (1024 MB)
(2x) 250 gig 7200 rmp HD
Before anyone says to export to a new catalog and re-import, etc, use a smaller catalog, etc, be advised that I have done all of that. I have imported only 250 images to a new catalog, on a newly installed OS, with Lightroom as the ONLY application. Still it acts this sluggish.
I have scoured the boards for solutions, and having tried all the varied fixes to no avail, I really quite strongly feel that a person should not EVER be in the position or running some of the most powerful available hardware and STILL have to wait interminable seconds for Lightroom to respond.
This software, as it stands now on the PC platform (unless I am missing something quite obvous) is absolutely unusable in its present state.
Can someone from Adobe or a board guru please respond in kind to my request for help?

Photo_op8 wrote:
BradKaye wrote:
I'd have to agree with the subject of this 100%, even though I'm not experiencing anywhere near the levels of lag ellsworth is on any of my primary workhorses.
1st-Gen 17" MacBook Pro 2.4Ghz Intel Core 2 Duo with Hi-Rez Screen (about 2 years old)
1st-Gen MacPro (Dual Twin-Core 3Ghz, 3x, 10k-RPM 150GB Raptor RAID-0, partitioned to System/Scratch/Files (in that order) 16GB RAM...blah blah (about 2.2 years old)
3 week old MacPro 2x2.66 Quad-Core MacPro, 16GB RAM, Multiple Partitioned (System/Scratch/Files) Internal 4x-1.5TB RAID-0, 4x 1.5TB eSATA RAID-0, 2x NVIDIA GT 120's, 30" NEC 3090WQXi, 26" LaCie 526, 24" Apple LED Display
OS 10.5.8 on all machines.
Let me repeat-
Partitioning ONE drive to contain system files, application, cache, catalog and photos=SLOW.
It really doesn't matter that the drive is 7200 or 10k rpm if ALL items reside on the same drive. The MacPro has four bays. One drive for system and catalog, second for cache, third for photos=FAST.
Wow, I'm glad you repeated that, and used capitalized text so that I would be sure to understand.
Clearly, the benchmarks I have off of the various evolutions of my last 3, $10k computers must be in error. (single system disk, RAID-0 system disk, 10k RPM system disk, RAID-0 3x -10K rpm system disks, multiple scratch volumes on different drives, singular scratch volumes on RAIDed drives, tested via benchmark programs and application specific batch tests, etc.etc.)
More importantly as an issue of forum protocol, you didn't actually read my post.
Brad Kaye wrote:
I partition about 10% of the outside of a drive as separate and put the information I need to get to most quickly which tends to be the system folder then scratch disk in a another separate partition and then I leave the rest on that drive as gobs of 'B' space for media and other crap files, reserving the first 10%-30% of the outside of a different drive (or RAID-0 sets) for my files and Lightroom catalogs.
I'm throwing 370 mb/sec between two individual sets of 4 drive RAID-0 sets. Single 7200rpm drives sling about 80 mb/sec. My drive arrangement isn't the reason Lightroom IS TOO SLOW TO USE AS A PROFESSIONAL PRODUCT.
Also, since I referenced and linked the former software engineer turned photo FREAK in my post, whose blog I started reading last year corroborating the decisions I've made in my previous system setups with immaculate documentation and testing procedure your response even more seems like the entire reason I rarely bother posting in community forums. You seem to be here to spout, not to contribute and learn.
Take a look at all of the info contained here: (I've already read it, all of it, and more)
Diglloyd Mac Performance Guide
and if you still think I'm wrong, lets have an informed debate about it. Really.
Otherwise, lets please keep this topic moving forward with the issues Adobe needs to address next to make Lightroom a better product for professional photographers, and specifically, help out ellsworth999 who started this topic, who seems to have a big helping of problems on his plate. I can't speak to him directly of his problems since I'm not using the Windows version of the software.

Mac pro too slow to use, spinning ball, no finder response, only hard power off, installing system stalls at 18 minutes left.

mac pro too slow to use, spinning ball, no finder response, only hard power off, installing system stalls at 18 minutes left.
It is taking an hour to power up and mac apple logo appear onscreen. No finder controls or "clicks" are being recognized. Spinning beachball all the time.
Using hard power off and holding the mouse down, I was able to open the optical drive and then restart with "c" and ask the dvd to reinstall the system, but it has stalled before finishing the installation.
This happened about 4 days ago, first it started responding slowly, and then it just keeps spinning the beachball. I can't find hardware test. I did run etrecheck, it did not have any error messages, but I can't copy or move the data anywhere.... I am not able to access the mac pro with another machine, and now I am stuck in install freeze, so I can't copy etrecheck by hand onto a piece of paper.
Without being able to finish a reinstall, what can I try?
After it got bad, and before it got REALLY bad, I managed to repair permissions, but it took a long time. Most of a day. When I restarted from that, things were only worse.
Mac Pro 1,1 , 11 GB ram, 7300, 5TB hard drives, OS 10.6.8, the drive containing the system folder is/was 700 used, 290 free. While I could get commands to respond, I put Activity monitor on the desktop and watched it. System memory was 3.31 GB used, about 7 free, and some wired. No app was using a huge amount.
what should I try next? I put a bid on a new/old machine so that I could move the 4 hard drives over.

Thank you for all your suggestions. Please correct me as I articulate this.
I have three versions( 5, 6, CC) of the Adobe Master Collection which I keep active for different clients. I have final cut and motion. I have Office 365. I have a collection of graphic apps that are individually not too big but in all, my app folder is 65GB and my bootcamp partition is 61GB. I can't fit all this on 120 ssd and a 256 will be full once I install, correct? drives should be half open?
Somehow I did not make it clear enough that I was trying to copy onto a 2TB drive I had just initiallized in order to try and save files from my startup drive. I don't use time machine. I take a day or a few days worth of documents and physically move them to another drive at night. If a series is finished I make two dvd's as well. The second black drive that was failing was the drive I moved my backup documents onto. At no point was I trying to backup onto the failing drives. I was trying to copy off both of them onto the other two drives, a third aux backup that has been there for a while, and a newish 2 TB which I designated as the startup drive when all this trouble started.
I wondered if there were any good techniques for trying to get the data off the failing drive. Thanks for the suggestion of Data Rescue 3. I don't have it yet, but I will try it as soon as I get it. I was never trying to repair in place.
I am very interested in getting a pci bracket and an ssd, but I may wait until I can afford the larger one. If I get an older bracket that is compatible with my old mac pro 1,1 , I'd like to be able to move it to a mac pro 3,1 if I get one. Will the larger ssd drives be compatible with the sata in a pci bracket that can work in my mac pro 1,1 ? sata 2 versus something else? If 240 or 256 is my size limit, how much more than my 65 and 61 GB partitions can I put on there? How much of a scratch disc can I make if I leave another 39 GB of headroom on my bootcamp partition? I'm filling 165 GB without making any allowance for temp files.
You have said that 120 is enough for any system. I think I must be misunderstanding something. Are you saying that assuming that most people run office and photoshop and maybe lightroom?
I have and use 4 HDD in this machine, mostly for document storage in two places.
I took out all but the group of 2GB ram chips I bought a year and a half ago. The old ram had passed the hardware test the last time I had access to the hardware test. Two black drives failed, one was a year old and one was a year and a half old, and that it may have been exacerbated by the heat wave. I don't know why the video and the monitor were affected save that the startup drive was failing. I am trying to replace the card.
With all this said, I am also looking at a used mac pro 3,1 with a better video card since a newer machine will likley be compatible through another OS upgrade. If a machine costs only a little more than a new card, it might be a better way to go.
I don't have any sources that offer an ssd for 100. ( of a size that is useful)
How large is your application folder?

4 to 4.1 - too slow to use.

Since upgrading to 4.1 LR has become too slow to use.
The problem lies primarily, but not restricted to, the noise reduction sliders. The luminance slider specifically.
Unless I can fix something I will have to return to an older version, Im actually thinking of going back to 3.6 which worked fine on my machine - AMD E2, Dual Core graphics, 4gm RAM.
Please help.

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Another example...at application startup, we load all of the metadata (columns, primary key segments and index segments) into memory using the standard odbc api calls...SQLColumns, SQLPrimaryKeys and SQLStatistics. SQL Server loads this in maybe 8-10 seconds while Oracle loads in 15 minutes at best. These queries we don't control and it is still unbelievably slow. Again, using the ODBCTEST utility, the results for these api's come back pretty quick.
If it is our application causing the problem in some way then it should be equally slow across all platforms, right?
By the way, we had one of your Oracle Consultants in house trying to solve the metadata problem and he was unable to find any problem in our application and had no answers for us.
Thanks for the quick response.
Lon Diehl

HT1766 I have an ipad3(wifi +cellular). Now i want to upgrade my iOS5.1 to ios 7. But download speed in our country is too slow(100kbps). It can be disconnected anytime. Is there any problem if net connection get disconnected while upgrading ios? Please a

I have an ipad3(wifi +cellular). Now i want to upgrade my iOS5.1 to ios 7. But download speed in our country is too slow(100kbps). It can be disconnected anytime. Is there any problem if net connection get disconnected while upgrading ios? Please ans me.

There is something Definitely wrong with iOS 7 regarding DATA USAGE being logged to wireless carrier in for WIFI instead.
I read all the previous replies and same issue.
I rarely use my mac to sync....its all wifi sync for the last 2 years....never had this issue before... and i know it began with iOS7.... here is why....
My iPhone was at home when I updated to iOS7 connected to wifi...but it logged Data Usage to Rogers Wireless (700MB approx)...data will never do an update over 50mb in app store (it gives the warning to use wifi) I play a lot of games and pay for them so I always update through App Store. 2 weeks later, simposons halloween update (650mb)...at home, using wifi.
Rogers told me there was 700+mb data usage on the day of update and 650+mb data on oct 1.st (tapped out).
Went over my 6GB plan and paid the fees.
This has never happened before...It must come to apples attention by now...

I have a new IMAC with a Maverick platform (I can update to Yosemite). I did all graphics on a G5 Power PC (very old), in Freehand (very old)... How can I open old Freehand files on this new Mac? Can I still open and work in Freehand on this new Mac?

I have a new IMAC with a Maverick platform (I can update to Yosemite). I did all graphics on a G5 Power PC (very old), in Freehand (very old)...
How can I open old Freehand files on this new Mac?
Can I still open and work in Freehand on this new Mac?

Let me see if I've gotten this right! You want to remove an account from BOTH machines? Do this for your new machine first, then for the other.
Click the Apple logo on the top left of the screen, System Preferences, Users and Groups (under Systems), unlock the lock in the window if its locked (you need to know the password), select the user that you wish to remove, and click the - sign next to the + sign for Login options. A window will pop up with some options. Select Delete this user and securely, and click 'Delete user'.
After this, do an update from the App Store.
Thats all there is to it.
For the other machine repeat the process except for one thing. Before you delete the user in this case YOU, you will have to give Administrator priviledges to your son bu checking the box 'Allow user to administer this computer'.
Do NOT do anything from Finder ... if you dont know how to fix the consequences of the problems caused.
There is no need to unauthorize your iTunes account on your new machine. Do it on the old machine though.

New iMac too slow to use Word - can it be fixed or should I get my money back ?

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