Obp stops at "Powering on Opensparc T1"

Dear all,
I try to boot 1c4t OpenSolaris from a sparc core synthesized in XST and integrated into the EDK project provided by the Design and Verification kit. However, OBP stuck at "Powering on OpenSparc T1" forever.
To run synthesis, I directly invoke xst (instead of use rxil) in the $DV_ROOT/design/sys/iop/sparc/xst directory:
xst -ifn XC5VLX110.xst
Here are some modifications I made before running xst synthesis:
-bufr is not a valid option for virtex 5 devices, so I removed it.
As I read from Xilinx data sheet, the device on XUPV505 should be packaged by ff1136 instead of ff1153, so I made the change accordingly:
-p xc5vlx110-ff1153-3 to -p xc5vlx110t-ff1136-3
And as suggested by the DV User Guide, FPGA_SYN is defined and FPGA_SYN_1THREAD is removed since I intend to synthesize a sparc core with 4 thread pipeline.
Any problem with the OpenSolaris and OBP image is ruled out, since if the FPGA is configured with the bitstream from the out-of-box SysACE, but the DDR memory is overwritten by downloading images via XMD, OpenSolaris booted normally. Anybody has the same problem? Is there any potential problem with the options in XST synthesis or XPS flow? I am wondering if the problem is only related to XST, and if synthesized with Synplicity, the design can boot Solaris normally.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
-Jin
Edited by: jouyang on Jan 27, 2009 2:14 PM
Edited by: jouyang on Jan 27, 2009 2:15 PM
Edited by: jouyang on Jan 27, 2009 5:44 PM

Hi Jin,
This will probably be a very complicated debugging problem. Here goes!
1. First, examine all the synthesis logs created by XST for any kind of warning or error. Then, examine the EDK place and route logs, and especially the timing reports for any timing violation, or other kind of error.
2. Next, I suggest running a stand-alone tests on the processor. The procedure to do this is found in the OpenSPARC T1 Design and Verification User's Guide. Start by running the core1_mini regression. All tests should pass. If so, then run core1_full. This will take a while (approx 700 tests at 30 seconds per test).
3. If all the above tests pass, then examine the software. There are four different boot PROM images, depending on whether you have a 1-thread or a 4-thread core, and whether you want to boot Solaris, or just run a program on top of Hypervisor. If you are booting a 4-thread core, the proper file should be 1c4t_obp_prom.bin Also, double-check that you are loading the prom.bin and the OpenSolaris image to the correct locations.
Good Luck!
formalGuy

Similar Messages

OpenSparc problems, debug

Hi,
we are currently working on modifying the ifu unit of the OpenSparc. However, when we map it on the XUP FPGA board, we obtain some weird results.
The first diagnostic test passed just fine but the HelloWorld test fails, looping forever and printing a weird set of characters "$k$". I attached the logs of both runs.
I am wondering about what is going on in the Sparc and if there is any way to check step by step the program execution of the Sparc.
Thanks!
-Andrea
#Running the default diag
MBFW_INFO: Running RTL diag "bypass_win"
MBFW_INFO: Microblaze firmware initialization completed.
MBFW_INFO: Powering on OpenSPARC T1
MBFW_INFO: speculative_ifill_data being returned for 0x1000144020
MBFW_INFO: received ifill request for good trap addr: 0x1000122000
MBFW_INFO: Thread 0 reached good trap.
MBFW_INFO: All threads reached good trap.
#Running Hello_world
MBFW_INFO: Uncompressing ram_disk .....
MBFW_INFO: Uncompressed ram_disk
MBFW_INFO: Initializing OpenSPARC T1 DRAM from 0x80100000 to 0x8AF00000
MBFW_INFO: Initialized OpenSPARC T1 DRAM
MBFW_INFO: XIntc interrupt controller initialized.
MBFW_INFO: Setting Temac operating speed to 100 Mbit/sec
MBFW_INFO: Ethernet controller initialization completed.
MBFW_INFO: Network controller initialized.
MBFW_INFO: Microblaze firmware initialization completed.
MBFW_INFO: Powering on OpenSPARC T1
``Alive and well ...
Strand start set = 0xf
Total physical mem = 0xac00000
Scrubbing the rest of memory
Number of strands = 0x4
membase = 0x0
memsize = 0x1000000
physmem = 0xac00000
$$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$k$k$$

Hello,
Have you tried running simulations on your modified design? Try running a full regression suite to see if that catches any design problem.
I would suggest the following experiments: First, run the entire regression on the modified design. If a test fails, it's much easier to debug a short test, than a hypervisor boot problem. Instructions for running a complete regression are found in the Design & Verification Guide.
Next, I would try mapping the original design to FPGA and verifying that the Hello World program works correctly.
formalGuy

The most systematic analysis of Lumia 800 battery ...

Hi, don’t mean to be arrogant, but I’ve read many threads, forums, posts etc. There are tons of info, someone tried a table, etc. but no one has attempted to summarise the relevant parameters. So here goes:
1.     I have a Cyan 800, bought locked at “3” UK, then unlocked. It’s beautiful and makes iApple UI look, well, jurassic or geriatric in comparison. The screen is so beautiful that I switched the thing on just to marvel at the ease of reading the glorious white on black (real black, not grey) and I am smitten by the ascetic aesthetics of the UI that put function over form (I simply can't stomach the saccharine animation of Apple, it is an eye candy for a while, then becomes bothersome, at least to me.
2.     Initially, I noticed that the battery life was not great, but it did not seem disastrous, and I read all the gleeful Apple worshipping media trying to fan the battery issue, but I thought that it was a storm in a tea cup and just the usual attempt to put-down any competition to Apple.
3.     Until a couple of days ago I noticed that I have less than ½ charge after only a few hours off the charger without really doing almost anything.
4.     I panicked, read as much I could the forums, etc. (including probably the most technical – XDA-Forums) but got there only one real advice, the “diagnostics” mode (dial ##634# - I also downloaded an App (called Diagnostics) that does bring you straight to the relevant page without the need to “dial” the ##634#).
5.     I then tried to see what was draining the battery, I stopped 3G connection and “presto”, the drainage stopped and I thought that I resolved the problem (at least for me, there were clearly problems with a certain hardware code, see below).
6.     For one day, the battery was very durable. Even though I had some reasonable With-Fi browsing and calls (GSM, not 3G), there was more than a 1/3rd of the battery left after about 20 hours of the last charge.
7.     Then, today, the morning began very well (in terms of the battery), it was losing less than a few percentage points every hour. I used it for light browsing and a bit of Bluetooth listening. Them my 7-yr old played some X-Box games for a bit, but the battery was way above 2/3rds. I then noticed that the phone was warm even though it was not on. Initially, I thought that it was warm because it was on my body, but then I noticed very fast fall in the battery level. Check:
a.      the 3G again, no it is still off
b.     wi-fi and Bluetooth off
c.      I even checked what Apps were in the background (though I know that it is NOT draining)
d.     - nothing helps, the drainage was high, even when the phone was closed (i.e., not used).
8.     There was nothing I could do, until I shut the phone down completely and switched it on again. Then, the drainage returned to the “good” level, i.e., a few percentage points per hour.
9.     So bottom line, I think that there was something going-on “in the background (that is why the device was warm even when closed) – the problem is that this seems to be intermittent/random and very difficult to put the finger on what causes this problem. I hope that Nokia resolves this problem and not only the “low” battery capacity (see below) that Nokia acknowledged.
So after this long intro, what do I see as the “hard-points” here? The most important parameters for the story seem to be in the following screens:
1.     “Diagnostics” (##634#) “Battery Status” screen;
2.     “Settings”/”Systems”/”about” screen, have to press the “more information” button;
3.     “Settings”/”Systems”/”battery saver” screen;
4.     The battery icon and its remaining capacity representation on the main screen.
The “Diagnostics” (##634#) “Battery Status” screen:
It seems to contain the following info:
·       “Charged” – seems to display ALWAYS the figure “65535%”;
·       “Voltage” – seems to show figures of between 3.700 V (i.e., volts) to 4.1 or 4.2 volts
·       “Current”, followed by “charging” or “discharging” and the current, usually between 130 mA (i.e., milliamp) and 500 mA.
·       “Full Charge Capacity” – showing different figures for different people, usually between slightly above 900 mAh (i.e., milli-Amper-hours) and slightly above 1,500 mAh. Although in this should logically be a fixed-for-ever, or at least in the short term level, the figure seems to fluctuate slightly, see below for more detail.
·       “Remaining Charge Capacity” – clearly the most important parameter, showing the remaining mAh in the battery. Although in theory, the level immediately after long charge should be equal or very near the “Full Charge Capacity”, in practice, it almost never is (remember, I take this not only from my case, but also from numerous reports that I got from the various forums), see below for more detail.
The “Settings”/”Systems”/”about” screen, the relevant info items:
·       OS version – it seems that the latest one (as of late dec 2011) should include “7740” in it. apparently, Nokia promised some respite from the battery bugs in this “7740” update, but from what I read in the forums, there was absolutely no difference.
·       Firmware revision number – interestingly, the firmware revision number includes “7720”, though I am not sure what it means.
·       Hardware revision number – this ends up with “xxx.3” or “xxx.4” – as below, I wonder if this is a different OEM factories designation, but it seems to me that it is the “xxx.4” that has one type of problem (low “Full Charge Capacity” of under 1,000 mAh).
The “Settings”/”Systems”/”battery saver” screen – what is relevant for us is under the “battery information” – you must unplug the phone from charger to see three lines:
·       “Remaining battery life”: supposed to be between 0 and 100% of course (though in this context, calling it “remaining battery life” is misleading, or at least inconsistent with the “remaining charge capacity” of “Battery Status” screen. Perhaps it would be better to call this “remaining charge”
·       “Estimated time remaining” – measured in hours, in my case, it is always under 15 houts. There is no explanation what it means, I would guess that this is “how many hours will your phone work in stand-by mode”, but then it is way way below what Nokia said – measured in hundreds of hours.
·       “Time since last charge – measured in hours.
So below I summarise my findings, but first, my unit parameters:
Color: Cyan (does not seem to make any difference to people out there – problems “cross” colours;
OS: “7.10.7740.16”
Firmware: 1600.2475.7720.11414
Hardware: 112.1402.2.3
So, in MY case:
1.     “Battery Status” screen:
·       “Charged” – seems to ALWAYS display the figure “65535%”, like all others on the forums. This must be some kind of mistake because it does not change or update and makes no sense, now that we are in this so deep, I hope that Nokia explains what the hell this means, if at all;
·       “Voltage” – seems to show figures of between 3.700 V (i.e., volts) to 4.1 or 4.2 volts. When the battery is low, the voltage seems also to fall below 4.0;
·       “Current”, followed by “charging” or “discharging” and the current, usually between 130 mA (i.e., milliamp) and 500 mA. When the battery “plays nice”, i.e., there is no “problem”, this figure is under 150 ma, usually going seesaw between 140 and 155. When 3G is on, it is above 250 towards 270 mA
·       “Full Charge Capacity” – showing for me usually above 1,500, constantly changes, though less frequently then other figures in this screen. Strangely I noticed that when it is cold (I was jogging and it was in an external pocket with about 7C outside), this number went lower, under 1,500. Perhaps the battery when colder can hold less charge? Nokia should explain. I think that in case of Hadware versions that end in “x.4” the maximum in this parameter is reported under 1,000.
·       “Remaining Charge Capacity” – in my unit this never reaches the “Full Charge Capacity” (which is usually slightly above 1,500 mAh), it stops below 1,350 mAh.
2.     “Battery Saver Screen” and the battery icon on the main screen:
In my case, because the “Remaining” charge never reaches close to the “Full Charge”, when I disconnect the phone from charger, I get straight that “Remaining Battery Life” is “94%” (1350/1500 or so) – and the icon is never 100% “full”, rather “almost” full. “Estimated time remaining” never really above 15 hrs.
So, there seem to be (at least) two major issues/problems in relation to battery/working-time:
1.     Firmware revision (probably) “x.4” may have a faulty battery that would not charge above 1,000 mAh (950 mAh is mentioned by many, or about 1/3rd less than intended by Nokia (unless it is a software bug, which will be huge relief for all, especially for nokia);
2.     Firmware revision “x.3” may have escaped the “crippled” battery of revision “x.4” guys, but from time to time it can lose battery charge at least 2 times faster than otherwise, most likely due to some background processes that can be felt as the device becomes warm even when not switched on (i.e., in stand-by mode). This seems to be intermittent or random and can be stopped by powering-down the phone and then powering-up again.
3.     In all cases, the claim that the phone can be several days in sand-by mode, must be wrong and Nokia must address and explain this.
So in summary, at least in respect of battery, there is a mess. Will be interesting if some people with other WP7 devices can chip-in and say whether it is similar in their cases, but Nokia should be open and explain and even admit mistakes, I hope that this can be rectified by software, or at least it is not a “terminal” complication for Lumia 800, which is a beautiful device.

I would like to thank all the people here who have taken the time to put all this info together for us all and hope it is of help to the folks who are having trouble with battery life. I'm not doing to bad on battery life myself as it always last me though the working part of the day when I don’t have access to a charger and I will soon be updating my car cradle to take the Lumia so will have access to a charger though the day to. Personally I have come from the N900 and that phone also had some battery issues when it first came out which where pretty much sorted over time, as for manufactures claims on battery life, I always read these figures the same way I would read expected miles per gallon that car manufactures put out, meaning that there would only be a very select few that would ever get what the manufactures say you can get the rest of us will all get a very wide variation on these figures. I know that Nokia have acknowledged that there is an issue with battery life and not all of us have this issue, at this moment in time I'm not to unhappy with the battery life, but if it improves then I will be pleased. From all the posts I have read on this site it does seem that some people do read manufactures specifications as if there are set in stone, I'm not criticizing anyone here would just like to say that they are trying to sell you something so have a good look at the figures and maybe check them with other independent sources if at all possible. My only disappointment really is that we have to rely on other people and not Nokia themselves to let us know what’s going on, I wish the manufacture would be more open and quicker to let us know what’s going on and what they are doing to sort out problems and some sort of time frame that we could expect something to come out to fix a problem. I know bugs can me very difficult to find and ever more difficult to fix sometimes but if Nokia put out a weekly report about how things where going on bug fixes or forth coming updates it would help everyone in deciding where they are going with their chosen product.
Again many thanks to all the people helping us all out and wish you all a happy bug free new year.

IMac shutting down on startup - Can't enter safe mode as wireless keyboard doesn't connect quickly enough

Hi all,
I was planning to use bootcamp to install Windows 7 on my mid-2010 21.5" iMac.
Bootcamp recommended I usk disk utility to repair the drive. I had a snow leopard install disk in the drive, (I didn't realise Lion already had it's recovery tools built in to the hard drive.)
Disk utility said it can't repair the drive and recommended I start backing up my data (because the hard drive could be about to fail). Fine, so I restarted, with the intention of backing up everything (all my work for the last 12 months). So I press the power button, grey screen comes up, then the apple logo, then a progress bar appears (found this odd at first, but later found out it has something to do with disk utility and a bad hard drive) it gets to around 20% and then all power is cut from the iMac and the hard drive stops/everything powers down.
Now, I can't seem to get my iMac to boot into recovery utilities or into safe mode because it doesn't connect to the wireless keyboard in time before it shuts down. So, if I use a wired keyboard (I have a dell USB keyboard that I can take from the office), will I be able to boot into safe mode?
Also, if the disk in drive is causing the problem, then I can't remove it because the wireless keyboard won't connect/register any keypresses.

Ok so, status report:
Wired keyboard is non responsive when I plug it in before/during boot. So i guess it needs to be plugged in before the iMac shut down. That's that out the window.
Plugged in headphones and I can't hear the startup chime so don't know when to start holding buttons.
To make matters worse, the wireless keyboard is no longer paired with the iMac, getting a green blinking light which indicates it wants to connect to a computer or device.
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Is there a single reference source for IPad 1 user problems?

I am a new IPad user and have not found using it as easy as I thought (from listening to ipad users saying how simple it is) and being used to Windows for the past 15 years.
In particular, since I did the recommended up date to 5.1 , my iPad has become very noticeably slower to respond - from connecting to the Internet to lag in typing and frequent crashes . Have tried factory reset which has improved it a little - but not enough to stop me powering up my ancient laptop which is definitely quicker!
I have tried browsing the support community but found trying to wade through a single thread of 40 pages relating to this problem overwhelming . Through google i have found some (allegedly) expert advice on solving this problem from 'non apple sources' but would prefer to trust apple sources.
Is there a single source of expert information or advice relating to specific problems such as the above exist anywhere and if so please could you point me towards it?

iPad User Guide (For iOS 5.1 Software)Mar 15, 2012 - 15 MB

My probook 4420s lap is getting shut down frequently

My probook 4420s lap is getting shut down frequently for the last two weeks. Whenever I start d lap, it gets opening normally and after few minutes, it gets power off without showing any error messages. What to do..? Once I tried d hard disk checking before the booting, but it was shown that "heard could not find or missing".

Hi,
Thank you for posting in the HP Support Forum.
In addition to what @visruth has written, you can also try to download Speccy - http://www.piriform.com/speccy
This is free software for system information and it can show/measure the temperature of some of the computer components.
In my opinion your problem looks like overheating issue. When the computer's fan is not working, it overheats (especially if the CPU/HDD are overloaded with some tasks) and stops working (powers down unexpectedly with no messages) to prevent damage. If this is the case, it would be good to monitor the temperature.
If this is the case, authorized HP Support Center should be able to help you fix this. If you are not sure where such is located, you can contact the nearest HP contact -> http://www8.hp.com/us/en/contact-hp/ww-contact-us.html
Best wishes,
IT_WinSec
Hewlett-Packard employee | HP Enterprise Services
Although I work for HP, I express my personal opinion.
Visit www.hp.com/makeitmatter
--Say "Thanks" by clicking the Kudos Thumb Up in the post that you find useful.
--Please mark the post that solves your problem as "Accepted Solution"

Sun Ultra 25 workstation not booting

Ultra 25 will not pass OBP, stopping on "Probing I/O buses, I have connected laptop as there is no video, output to ttya, have tried new keyboard and mouse, rebooted several times, left it sit overnight to see if OBP would continue. any suggestions before placing a service ticket.
Thanks
Earl
Edited by: Earl1 on May 20, 2009 12:27 PM

Problem solved, bad connection on USB

Error in running diags on fpga

hi all,
i could successfully download the opensparcT1 on ml509 board and ran all my diags ending in good trap...
i repeated the same by creating a buggy model which had given bad traps for my diags during simulation...
i could synthesise and generate the .bit file for the buggy model.. and also download the same on the board...when i run my diags i get the following error
MBFW_INFO: running RTL diag "exu_add.s"
MBFW_INFO:Microblaze firmware initialization completed
MBFW_INFO:Powering on opensparc T1
MBFW_ERROR:timed out waiting for pcx_pkt data word
MBFW_INFO:existing with status 1 error
can anyone help...

Hi Lenu,
The message "MBFW_ERROR: timed out waiting for pcx_pkt data word" indicates that the processor hasn't made a memory request in a long time. Either the processor is in a tight loop, executing code out of the I-cache, or the processor is waiting for a response to a previous memory request that somehow got lost. In that case the processor just locks up. What kind of bug did you insert?
Also, check your place and route log and make sure your buggy design met timing.
formalGuy

T410 Disco Blinking Show - Not Booting

MODEL - T410 - 2516CT0
OS - W7 PRO 64 Bit
Hello all,
was working on the laptop without any hitch (Last program was scanning using a legacy Canon Scanner 1240U via XPMODE), put it into hibernation, no issue, project complete.
Hours later on trying to switch it back on via the fingerprint sensor or power switch, all the LEDs power up including the think light for a second then off for a second, on again, repeatedly doing that with out booting into the BIOS. Sensed trouble!
I have tried some suggestions posted here like resetting via the draining the CMOS battery, removed all the RAM chips, hard
drives, checked USB pins to no avail, whilst the disco light blinking is entertaining, I really need to get back to work!
It seems I am always back here a month before my warranty peters out ! The last time was with my T61 and its NVIDIA chip issues, Lenovo? There must be a better way to prompt for purchasing an extended warranty ; )
Any ideas people will be really appreciated, my hard drives are locked and so am I untill the show ends, HELP!
PS - The laptop has in the recent past had one or two stop 000000x07 BSDs

Update for other users;
I let the light show continue for some time.
Noticed a pattern, lights blinked four times per second then paused for two seconds, all LEDs go off except power switch then cycle restarts.
Let this run continuously with out interuption for 4 cycles.
Power LED remained on, cycle stopped.
Powered off using power switch.
Powered back on using power switch and BOOT ! Thank you angels!
It still does not explain what the h*** is going on here!
In bios now unlocking my HDDs, dont want such a fright again! Still need help as to what happened here to prevent it happening again. Notwithstanding, if it was a Thinkvantage way to prompt me into purchasing an extended warranty, it has worked! Buying it now.

Microblaze mapping error

Hi,
I'm having the following output when running core1.mini regression on OpenSparc implemented with 4 threads. All the programs were doing well until the diagnostic program *"lsu_align_rand"* execute:
MBFW_INFO: Running RTL diag "lsu_align_rand"
MBFW_INFO: Microblaze firmware initialization completed.
MBFW_INFO: Powering on OpenSPARC T1
MBFW_INFO: speculative_ifill_data being returned for 0x1000144020
MBFW_ERROR: translate_addr(): Couldn't find T1 to Microblaze mapping for physic
MBFW_INFO: pcx_pkt: addr_hi_ctrl 0x28400011
MBFW_INFO: pcx_pkt: addr_lo       0x0036FFF8
MBFW_INFO: pcx_pkt: data1         0x1B1B1B1B
MBFW_INFO: pcx_pkt: data0         0x1B1B1B1B
MBFW_INFO: exiting with error status 1
It seems like a memory initialization problem. Any ideas?

Hello,
That is strange that only this test complains. Something seems to be going wrong at the end of the test.
This message:
MBFW_INFO: speculative_ifill_data being returned for 0x1000144020
indicates that at least one thread made it to the end of the test correctly.
Try creating a test list file with this test as the first test in the list. If that works, then there is still probably some uninitialized state left over from the previous test in the list.
formalGuy

G4 Tower: Doesn't power up!

I have a blue and grey G4 tower. It has sat at work for about 4 years and only been used half dozen times. So I took it home and have been happily using it for about 3 months. I got a Virgin Media broadband account and all was fine till the other day when (I believe) I shut down the mac ok but I lost the phone connection at the same time. I am getting the phone connection restored but it is possible a mains spike caused the problem as I remember shutting down the mac, switching the monitor off and then walking away. Just before i left my flat I noticed the mac was still on (it shouldn't have been) so I powered the monitor on and then shut the Mac down. now it won't start, either using the large 'power' button or the small 'reset' button. The mac IS 4 years old but has hardly been used. SOmebody suggested I clean the PSU unit but I looked and even the fans are still pretty clean. the inside of the Mac is spotless. SOmebody else suggested maybe there is a battery that has run out. I remember old Macs used to have a battery for storing time but surely this wouldn't stop it powering up?
The only other thing I noticed is that there is a small silver, braided wire with a funny 'nipple' connector on the end (in brass I think) which looks like it is disconnected from a point near the power button, but then again it could be just meant to be disconnected (ie ready for secondary media like DVD which this Mac doesn't have etc). I couldnt' see anywhere this could be connected.
Can anybody help? I have had macs for years and I have never had one just refuse to start before, especially one so little used - they usually soldier on for years. I do not have access to a manual or diagrams of what should be inside.
Oh I forgot to mention, the Monitor gets its power from the Mac and its light is on, which shows that power IS getting to the Mac)

Hi Steve!
I just bumped into your thread and I'm hoping that for now, at least, you still haven't managed todisconnect your PSU harness at the logic board. Unless you're bench testing the PSU with a resistance connected to the wiring, it's bad practice to energize it with the harness disconnected. Doing so can burn out the PSU in a very short amount of time.
Test the PSU using the link that Don kindly provided, but do so with the PSU installed and connected to the logic board. Insert the voltmeter probes into the wire side of the connector at the logic board, inserting them into the appropriate wire sockets right alongside the wires. Toward the end of each wire is a metal pin connector which you'll want to insure to make contact with. (Please note that after each test in the linked testing procedure, Apple advises to retest if you don't get a reading the first time. I take this as a double check to insure that probe to pin contact was made.)
I'd start by using the voltmeter set to AC voltage and first test for normal line voltage at the wall receptacle. If normal, connect your power cord to it and test for line voltage at the female end of the cord. If normal, connect the power cord into the Mac, switch the meter to DC voltage, open the side door, and insert the positive (red) probe into pin socket #22, which should be the white wire at the end of the connector for your Mac model. Insert the negative (black) probe alongside pin socket #11, which should be the black wire at the same end of the connector, just across from #22. This should produce a reading of +28 volts, which is the required trickle charge output for an energized power supply on a Gigabit Ethernet or Digital Audio Mac. If the reading is zero, retest to insure your probes indeed made good contact. If your probes are thick or you're unsure that you made metal to metal contact, you might use two straightened paper clips (much thinner) to insert alongside the wires, being careful not to touch them to each other or to touch both of them at the same time with a single probe, creating a short circuit. Then probe the protruding paper clips. If the reading is then still zero, the PSU is defective.
Regarding removing the connector... There's a plastic protrusion at the middle of the backside of the connector which you must press in near the top of the connector to release it from where it latches on a mating part just above the logic board. The harness connector should then pull straight up and off. If it's stubbornly stuck, then I'd first completely de-energize the Mac by unplugging the power cable, removing the internal battery, depressing the front power button for a few seconds, and then allowing the tower to sit for thirty minutes or so to insure that the logic board capacitors are discharged. Then try using a pair of pliers to grasp and carefully pull upward on the connector while depressing the top of the latch I spoke about. That should help you free it. If it still won't loosen, you might try spraying an aerosol dielectric electronics cleaner into the connector, wait a minute or so, then try the pliers again. If, instead, the problem is that the latch doesn't release at the bottom, try inserting a small tool between the connector body and the latch and gently pry the latch outward at the bottom just a tad. It only needs to move less than an eighth of an inch to release it. Then pull the connector straight upward.
Gary

G4 QS Will not boot after 9800 Pro Install

So I tried to install a 9800 Pro in my QS 733, and now it will no longer boot. I push the power button, the button lights up the drives strat to wind up and it stops and powers off. I tried replacing the card with my old ATI 64MB and it does the same thing, just as soon as the drives start up the machine shuts off.
I tried unplugging all devices even the monitor, I tried even unplugging both of the HDs but nothing worked.
-Chris

I just tried a new PRAM battery, I tried zapping the PRAM. Is there a specific way to zap it? I unplug everything, hit the button plug it all back and try to power up. I also tried with the machine unplugged. Any suggestions?

PowerMac G5 Quad, Turn Of Processor 2 3 4?

Hi all.
Just a quick query, Ive noticed this, but i've been using Xcode for about 2 years and in my System Preferences there's a new option, named Processor (under Hardware).
When I open the Processor panel, it allows me to un-tick processors 2, 3 and 4. Now, does this mean, if i disable 1 or all processors, that it completely stops and powers down the core?
Or do these option simply mean, that no instruction(s) are sent to the un-ticked core but all cores are still consuming normal amounts of energy.
Example, Go to System Preferences > Processors. If I un-tick processors 3 and 4 (but leave processors 1 and 2 ticked), that processors 3 & 4 are turned off (meaning powered down to a sleep status). And only processors 1 & 2 are running normally.
Another thing, should I decide to un-tick processors, is this a safe thing to do for a long period of time (yes a stupid question, but Im unsure).
I hope I've explained my issue clearly
Anyway friends thanks for reading and I hope someone can shed some light.
Harry.

You should take into consideration that an enabled, but idle core does not take very much energy, i.e. the difference between a disabled/off and an idle core is much less than the difference between an idle and a busy one -- the power management of the chip puts most units to sleep when idle.
The only real way to save energy is to give your computer less work, otherwise you'll simply have one core working longer, rather than four cores doing the work much faster (assuming that your workload has thread or task-level parallelism).
So if your computer is running more with one core instead of less with four cores it might even end up using more energy (because all the other components) if you don't reduce the workload... What does work well is limiting the peak power consumption by disabling cores.
Ciao, Colin
PS: My solution to the energy problem was to sell my Quad G5 and get a MacBook Pro dual 2.4 GHz

NX6800 not working on K8N Neo

I have a problem with my MSI NX6800 VGA / K8N Neo Platinum mobo. The card emits a long buzzing sound immediately after a start up and the sound does not stop. After the computer posts and starts to load up windows, the monitor goes black and the buzzing sound continues.
The card works perfectly on other computers, it just does not work on my K8N Neo Platinum mobo. Other VGAs work fine on my mobo. I am not sure whether this is a problem of the VGA or the mobo.
In addition, the card worked on the mobo without any problems in my old box. After I got a new box and reassembled the system, the card stopped working, but the system works with any other card. At the time of reassembly I also tried to mount a new cooler on the card, however, due to the problems I remounted the original cooler and the card appears to work just fine in other computers.
The other systems which worked with the VGA had much weaker PSU, so I assume the power is not the problem in my case.
Any ideas what could be the problem?
thx
pepe
MSI K8N Neo Platinum
MSI GeForce NX 6800-TD128
AMD Athlon 64 3200+
2x ADATA DDR 400 512MB
MAXTOR 160GB HDD + MAXTOR 80GB HDD
LG GSA-4081B DVD-RW
Yesico FL-420ATX +3.3V 25A/+5V 35A/+12V 18A

Ok, I did several testings during the last hours.
The first thing that suprised me was, that the NX6800LE was suddenly working in the computer with the weaker PSU I tried. Nevertheless the buzzing in the other machine (with 420W PSU) still started when putting the power plug in and still stopped when powering up the system and powering it down afterwards.
What I tried was to connect two older spare PSUs I still had to this system.
First, it was an Enermax with 350W. No problem, no buzzing! The second one was an ancient 250W Noname PSU. Still, no buzzing sound when I plugged in the cable! It even ran some benchmarks - rock stable.
It really seems that the problem is related to my specific PSU. I understand that there is some kind of current flow even when the system is not powered on. I suppose that the buzzer not only starts when there is too less power, but also if there is power "out of threshold".
In my case it would mean that there is a leakage current in the powered off state that is interpretated as "not enough power when computer is switched on".
In your case it would not necessarily mean that there is a lack of power - it could also be that one rail, e.g. +3.3V, is out of range (even too much!) or slightly defective/unstable.
I suppose that the 6800er series is extremely picky about the power it gets.
Ok, lots of assumptions, so we could really need a MSI-technician that tells us some more details about the buzzer....
I am still not sure what I should do now - RMA the NX6800LE or the power supply?! The latter could be quite difficult to RMA. It just does not work properly with this specific graphics card...

Compatible AC Adaptors for G3 PowerBook 1999

Based in U.K.
Hi,
I've recently purchased a vintage G3 Lombard PowerBook and had to purchase an AC adaptor separately.
The system would not boot up at all and I went through all the troubleshooting with reseting and powering with the main battery removed but had to stop at powering without the keyboard attached.
I contacted the seller and they happily took the system back but (un)fortunately they managed to boot up fine straight away and emailed me photos of the boot up.
The thing I'm going for now is the fact that I've been sold an AC adaptor that's not compatible. I'm using an M4328 and the seller was using an older M4896 which did work. Does anyone have a good list of compatible AC Adaptors for G3 PowerBooks, especially the 1999 pre-firewire? Teh best list I could find (and my adaptor wasn;t on there) is at this site <http://www.laptopbits.co.uk/databasefiles/AppleAdaptors.htm>.
At a very long shot, is there anyone in Edinburgh in the UK who has a working Lomabard and wouldn;t mind meeting up for an hour or so to troubleshoot.
Thanks,
G3 PowerBook Lombard Mac OS X (10.3.3)

Hi baobhanjex,
I've had problems with power adapters for my Pismo 'Book. I was given an M4402 pack, which would allow my PowerBook to boot, but wouldn't charge the battery. It was a bizarre problem, which was caused by the pack itself being faulty. It was only outputting 26 Watts and the 'Book needs 45W minimum. The eBay seller who supplied the machine replaced the adaptor and everything worked. Recently, I found an old Apple adaptor replacement program for the M4402 adaptor, which is unsafe and carries a risk of overheating. I applied, and was sent a new M7332 'yo-yo' adaptor, which is both useful and stylish.
What I'm saying is that most Apple adaptors are interchangeable. You can boot a Pismo with an old Duo adaptor as the voltage, amperage and plug are the same (usually). The best adaptors for the Lombard G3's are the M5159 or M7332, but beware - the M7332 exists in two forms, one for the pre-2001 machines and another for the G4 chipped 'Books. The key difference is the connector - the pre-2001 machines have a large plug, about the size of a phono plug, while the TiBoooks and later have a considerably smaller plug to fit the slimmer profile of the machine.
If you have no luck with the sellers, I'd recommend the following site:
http://www.pbfanatic.co.uk
The owner is Uk-based, specialises in the G3 'Books, and supplied the machine I'm typing on. They sell plenty of adaptors, new and old, for most PowerBooks. Mention my name if you require their services.
Hope this helps,
Rob Johnson

Obp stops at "Powering on Opensparc T1"

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