Obsolete Power supply circuit diagram

Hello everyone
I have 2 G4 gigabit ethernet (1 DP 450 and 1 SP 400 that I use as spare parts for the first one) and both power supplies have failed. Since these are obsolete, it gets harder to find parts for them, so I'm trying to repair the power supplies myself. I found some resistors that heated a lot, and a broken capacitor. I manage to replace them although I'm not sure of the resistor values and brought one psu back to life, but the other refuses to do anything. It would be easier to troubleshoot if I had the circuit diagram of the psu. Does anyone know where I might get it? The manufacturer (AcBel) sent me to Apple, but they don't seem to have support for this kind of request... The model number is : API-9841-291. Both have rev. B hardware.
Thanks in advance

Hi BDAqua,
Thanks for the help, I think it will be hard to find the circuit diagram... The problem is that buying a used psu means it could fail at any time and refurb one are not cheap...
Seeing the ATX conversion got me thinking. Although the diode trick is a good idea, the forward voltage drop of the diodes means the mb gets 4V in sleep and 11V when On, explaining the problems with deep sleep and firewire. Then I found this for 35$ on Digikey :
http://us.tdk-lambda.com/lp/ftp/Specs/zpsa40-60.pdf
I will use this psu to provide always on 28Vdc and an ATX psu salvaged from a defective PC at work to provide the other voltages. The best part is that the holes on that board will likely align with the holes on the empty HD rack on the left! A couple of screw and extenders should do the trick.
However, this 28V psu can only output 2.14A, so powering an ADC monitor is excluded, but should be enough to use the firewire ports.
I'll keep you posted on how it turns out.

Similar Messages

Power supply buzz on only one circuit

I am experiencing a slight but annoying buzz from what seems to be the power supply on my iMac G5 Rev B computer but I have already determined that it only occurs when using certain outlets (ones that share the same circuit). I have disconnected all devices on that circuit to no avail and I also purchased a radio shack single surge protector with 40dB noise filter which also did not work. While troubleshooting, I tried outlets on different circuits and the buzz disappears. Any recommendations on a better filter or maybe another solution. Murphy's law is that there is one perfect place for my computer in our kitchen and the outlets I can use are on that "bad" circuit.
Thanks in advance for nay help.
Mike
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.9)

Latest news...this is really driving me crazy. To make sure that no other circuit was causing interference, I turned off ALL the other circuits but the buzz still kept buzzing. I borrowed a voltage meter from my dad to make sure that the outlet wasnt too low or high and it came in 122V, so no problem there.
I started thinking about anything else that might be on that circuit and decided that maybe it could be the 24 hour address light, or my low voltage landscape lighting timer, or my doorbell, or my thermostats or my irrigation timer and none of them were on that circuit.
Finally, the only thing that was left was turn off the main breaker and look at the actual panel...there is one thing that seemed weird but I would be surprised if that was the culprit....the wire that they used for that circuit is a 3 wire (2 hots)...one hot (black) goes to the circuit in question and the other hot (red) goes to a circuit listed as "micro" which I assumed was the microwave (BTW is it common to use a 3 wire line and split the hots between circuits and share the ground and neutral?)
Anyway, the weird thing is that the microwave is on the oven circuit and is not connected to that "micro" breaker...I guess that micro circuit is not connected to anything. I'm thinking that they made 2 circuits available, one for the conventional oven and one for the microwave, but it ended up that the unit we chose was a combination conventional oven and microwave.
Well, pretty crazy problem but at least I'm starting to think that it is only some weird intereference and not a fire hazard or causing damage to my iMac...although I would LOVE to solve it!
Help any electricians out there!

Sending command strings to a Sorensen (Ametek / Xantrex) power supply model XDL 35-5TP

Hi all,
I am using the above mentioned power suply to control test units during end of line tests. I can do all the normal funtions through the manufacturers supplied library of vi's. The problem is, I need to make sure the voltage being seen by the unit under test is correct and therefor am using the remote sense function on the power supply. Essentially this runs a pair of sense leads to the point of measurement and allows the power supply to compensate for any voltage drop that is seen in the circuit.
As I am on the downstream side of a solid state relay with the sense leads, I need to cycle the remote sense function so that it is not trying to compensate when the SSR is off (sense would read zero volts and try to run the voltage up to compensate for what it sees as a loss)
The attached diagram shows how I am trying to send the command using the supplied Write Data vi but the power supply never responds to the command. I have tried different commands with no success and am hoping there is someone that has run across this to give me a hint as to what I am doing wrong.
Any assistance is much appeciated
Doug
Doug
"My only wish is that I am capable of learning each and every day until my last breath."
Attachments:
Powersupplyvi.pdf ‏102 KB

Code is attached including the TQLP library. The manual states that white space (spaces) are ignored so it does not matter if they are present or not. I will include that section of the manual as well and near the end of that it shows the syntax for the SENSE command that I am trying to use.
Doug
"My only wish is that I am capable of learning each and every day until my last breath."
Attachments:
Xantrex XDL Driver.vi ‏28 KB
TQLP.LLB ‏761 KB
Pages 39-42 from M370293-01_XDL_35-5-triple.pdf ‏110 KB

Designing variable output power supply

hi
could anyone help me out in designing variable output power supply ?
as i am new to this please post the circuit and also the step by step procedures in developing the circuit.

Hi rckz,
The link below has an example of a variable power supply.
http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http://howcircuits.com/downloads/circuits-and-diagrams/power-supp...
You can try to find the components in Multisim by right-clicking and going to Place Component. You can look through the database and place them on the schematic and then wire them as shown in the schematic.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Tayyab R,
National Instruments.

Compaq PDP124P Power Supply

Hello. I have a few computers HP Compaq DC5000 HP Compaq D530, they all got burnt power supply. Could you send block circuit diagram so that I could repair these power supplies and computers to bring them into working condition. Model unit Compaq PDP124P.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

I have posted my final versions of the schematics of the power supply.
I may add a block diagram later this year.
You may find my drawings on my Dropbox public folder by clicking on the following link.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/bamvvcypfego3sm/AADVSj5NLXpoi7sSjkeF_vs0a?dl=0
I do not offer repair services.

Power switch circuit for 13" MacBook

I replaced the water damaged keyboard on my white 13" MacBook 6.1, which now works except for the power switch and Keycaps light. I think what happened when troubleshooting, I jumpered the 2 MLB contacts to bypass the power switch and may have made contact with another trace that may have damaged a diode or transistor in that circuit. Plus, I think that the fact that the Keycaps light doesn't work indicates that supply voltage going to the power switch in missing, if that is where the Keycaps LED gets its power. Jumpering the contacts is still the only way to power it up. If anyone has the circuit diagram of this part of the MLB or knows the solution I would appreciate the information. My last resort is to wire an external switch to the contacts and mount it somewhere on the side of the laptop. Thanks for any help.

The magsafe adaptor does have its own circuitboard, so it could be an isolated failure of the DC board.
iFixit has the instructions to replace the board.
powerbookmedic.com has the parts, generally less than $50 but depends on your model. Make sure you get the right model!
http://www.powerbookmedic.com/Magsafe-DC-IN-Board-for-MacBook-Pro-15-Unibody-p-1 7273.html
Personally, I would take it to the Apple store and try out one of their power supplies, just to make sure that your AC adaptor is not the cause.

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Power Supply Temperatures Running Hot! Mac Pro shuts down.

Hello,
First I will give machine/hardware specs of interest:
2 x 3 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon (pre 2009)
8 GB 800 MHz DDR2 FB-DIMM
NVIDIA Quadro FX 5600 (running 2 displays)
Apple RAID Card/Controller
SMC Version: 1.25f4
*venting dimensions around computer: top=18", left side=3", right side=3" and back=18".
Software of interest currently running:
OS X 10.5.8
iStat Menu
SMC Fan Control
My machine has been shutting down spontaneously and I suspect either CPU or power supply overheating. In the 5 instances this has occurred, the room was very warm (AC was not on) and I was running HandBrake with CPU at full and an iStat reading of 145 F. Ambient was 77 F and I was not reading power supply temps at the time. I figured for sure this must be a CPU overheating issue. However, just a few hours ago I had another shutdown. The room was warm again but I was not running Handbrake, but StarCraft II. I have played a lot of Starcraft II with no problems until tonight.
I decided, this time, to check the temps on my power supplies. Power supply 1 = 147 F, and #2 is at 178 F. After many hours of searching forums I have concluded that these are crazy hot temps! I immediately installed SMC Fan Control to attempt to increase the fan speeds. I was successful in increasing all fans except the power supply (stuck at 599rpm). I have now turned the AC on in the house and the Ambient is down to 70, PS #1 145 and PS #2 169. All of these temps are a result of and idle machine running a browser.
The following may or may not be an issue, however, leave no stone unturned. I currently have 12 external devices running on USB. 4 WD passport drives, 1 DVD writer, 5 WD powered drives plus the keyboard and mouse. Also, the Mac Pro is plugged into a small UPS.
In all my forum searches, I just can't seem to answer some basic questions:
1. Can an overheated power supply shut the system down?
2. What are optimal (normal) running temps for Mac Pro's? (everyone seems to have opinions, but there doesn't appear to be a technical specification anywhere).
3. I thought the fans, especially CPU fans, were supposed to kick in when the heat rises. Why are mine staying at minimal rpm's?
Finally, does it look like I need new power supplies? Fans?
This machine was put into service in March of 2008 and has done very intensive rendering for the film industry...long nights...rendering for days sometimes. It has been retired for over a year now and is used at a lesser degree.
Thanks for reading this long post! I appreciate any input you can provide!
Other iStat reading of interest:
Power Supply 1 voltage = 12.28 V
Power Supply 1 current = 26.44 A
Power Supply 1 power = 316.75 W

Also, the Mac Pro is plugged into a small UPS.
Put your peripherals on that.
Don't share the same circuit for A/C as the Mac Pro, and put the Mac on 1300VA UPS at least.
As for all those external drives.... I'd consolidate into a good SATA case or two.
And yes in summer run with 3 of the fans up around 900 rpm.

Power supply fan dead - help? (400mhz AGP G4)

Hello!
Unfortunately, my PowerMac G4, a 400mhz, AGP Sawtooth model, has a dead fan.
Over the last few weeks, I've noticed that my G4 has been running quite hot. I figured it was due to the hot dorm room that it's being used in. Then, I noticed that when it booted up, it would occasionally make a vibrating, or rattling noise - I figured the fan was wobbling. Since air was comming out of the fan opening at the top, I didn't worry about it.
Today, I used the "Temperature Monitor" widget to check the temperature of my SMART Hard drive (the G4 itself is not sensed). It was 133 degrees!!! This is the bay on the back-right, just under the CPU fan. I looked at the fan again - not much airflow. I pulled out a flashlight and pointed it in, and the Fan that's inside the power supply unit is dead.
So, how can I fix it? It's far far too hot, so it's not usable until I can cool it off. The first idea I had was to take a particularly powerful desk fan, and make a paper "tube" that connects both to the G4 and back of the fan - so it'll pull the hot air out. Needless to say, this is not a good log-term plan as it's easy to fall apart and will have leaks, but it works for now. I realize you can buy power supplies, but for ~$100, it's far too much for the old G4.
Second idea: The fan is inside the "non-user servicable" power supply, but it's also next to the back of the G4 - right inside what appears to be a panel that holds the power supply in. At the very least, I'd like to make sure that the cable is attached and not loose, but I have to open the back. Is that possible or safe? If so, can I replace the fan?
My third idea was to attach an extra fan to the inside of the G4, on the outside of the power supply - pushing in. Unfortunately, the IDE cable from the DVD drive is in the way, and there's not much room for a fan. Plus, there's no fan power supply. Is it possible to convert an ATA power plug (there are 7!) to a fan-power supply? I'd require a small circuit and a lot of resistors, obviously! If so, what would I need to do to convert it?
Thanks a bunch,
-Dan
15" 1.67 Powerbook G4 (Jan 2005), 400 mhz AGP Sawtooth G4 Mac OS X (10.4.8) 4G Clickwheel and 5G Vid iPods, 2G iPod shuffle

Thanks!
Interesting, this "Piggy back power adapter" will allow me to plug the fan into one of the ATA/IDE cables? Or do you mean the extra port on the power supply? (it has one plug for the outlet>G4, then another to support something like a monitor or similar) The G4 has a DVD burner, but no ZIP drive, so this is quite do-able if it uses the ATA power.
When you say "lower rear", do you mean at the bottom? Below the power supply, to the right of the PCI slots? If so, this is the inflow for the CPU fan! I can understand mounting it outside the current outflow-vent for the dead power supply fan, although I'm not sure the best way to proceed with attaching the fan.
Another question: what tools and supplies will I need? I may need to remove the plastic cover on the back of the G4 - the one that is outside the power supply - as there's a gap between the gray plastic and metal chassis that lets air from outside the machine come in. The screws for this cover use a funky, hexagonal screwdriver. If I need to take this cover off, what kind of screwdriver will I need? Also, should the fan not include screws/etc, what's the best method to attach it? Glue?
Secondly, to cut a hole in the G4, will I need some variety of drill? I don't have one, so i'll have to borrow one... Since there's nothing in the ZIP slot, I can run a cable out through here (assuming it's long enough), and make a new bezel to keep the airflow inside intact.
Ah! One other (somewhat related) question: my USB 2 card includes a power adapter, for use when several un-powered devices (flash drives) are attached. It works just fine with a flash drive and a small media reader, but it's slow to sense the drives - I think it's low on power. Unfortunately, this power plug uses the same variety of plug as the floppy disk drives found on many win-boxes - of which the G4 possesses none. Is there an adapter/cable for this purpose?
Thanks, this is a HUGE help, I appreciate it.
-Dan

Can I install a G3 Blue & White power supply unit in a G4 AGP?

I have a G3 and a G4. The G4s power supply unit (PSU) short circuited a while back and I got a G3 as a replacement. I've tried to find a replacement power supply unit for the G4 and have been using the G3 in its place. Sometimes they appear on ebay but I usually lose the auction. But the G3 has upgrade issues that involve spending money on it. It's a Blue and White 300 MHz Yosemite while the G4 is the Graphite AGP 400MHz Sawtooth. RAM isn't an issue, processing speed is, the G3 is harder to upgrade. Plus I can put up to 3 hard drives in the G4. 2 ATAs and a SCSI. the G3 only holds 1 ATA hard drive. With 2 SCSI bays.
Anyway I'm leaning towrds retiring the G3 and rebuilding the G4 starting with the PSU. And I've seen on auction sites that these units are compatible with both Macs, the Blue and White G3 and the AGP and PCI G4. It is essentially the same 240 watt unit made by Delta Electronics or ATX..
However as I spent part of the yesterday dismantleing and cleaning dust out the Sawtooth's innards, and removing the broken PSU, I also noticed on the G3 that the PSUs cables are slightly different. There is one cable that is connected to the start button. On the G4 this isn't the set up. The start button's cable is linked directly to the motherboard.
To get to the point. Is this cable arrangement a potential problem that I should avoid by not tinkering with it? Or can I ignore this and install the G3 PSU in my G4? I'm preceding with caution and will check back here later in the day.
Thanks.
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Thanks, Grant
Interesting opinion.. and funny too.
On close inpsection of the fron panel you're right the cable is a hard drive cable, and without a number. Whereas the connector for the DVD and Zip drive are numbered P7 and P6.
And in the G4 there is a slot for where this old connector went, but there's nothing to connect, no pins. It's as if this slot was evolutionary rump on its spine end where the tail ended, that the G4 designers left in or else they used left over parts from the G3 to save money.. This early G4, introduced in 1999-2000 is one evolutionary step above the G3 which was discontinued in early 1999. The G4 front panel has a slim grey ribbon cable leading under the chassis directly to the motherboard, along witha thin wire and small pin connector leading from the speaker.
There's nothing like a beakdown to learn how to rebuild your PowerMac. And I think most of the repairs are DIY doable. It just takes a few good screwdrivers, a little know how, some patience and a lot of spare time. All that and the correct replacement parts, if you can find them.
So I've finished installing the G3 PSU in the G4. It fits perfectly in and amazingly all the cables were long enough, including the cable to the ATA hard drive bay P2 and P3. Hard drive is connected, RAM installed, ready to go. All I have to do is plug the power cable into a power strip socket and hope for the familiar whirr and chime and breatha sigh of relief. If nothing happens then it prolly means the motherboard is kaputt. Or that it isn't compatible with the G4 architecture and it's back in the G3. I'll let the board know what's happened tomorrow. I'm off to Slumberland. ZZZZZzzzzz. rob
G3 B&W 300MHz 6GB 512MB + iMac G3 400MHz 10GB 320MB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

FP-1000and FP-AI-110 power supply

Hello there,
I just set up my first FieldPoint unit and have a question concerning the recommended Power Supply:
When I read the FP-1000 QuickStartGuide , page 16, I thougt , there is no other way supplying the FP-AI-110 module but
by another external power supply .
But It seems , that the FP-AI-110 module is supplied by the internal bus, wihtout cascading power by the terminal. (See attached picture, where only the network module is connected to
an external Power supply )
So which way is recommended by NI ? Input Voltages at the analog module are limitede to max 5V.
Greetings
Beethoven
Attachments:
2008-07-15 002.JPG ‏158 KB

Hi!
I have in my lab FP-DI-301 and FP-DO-401. All works, even if I don't cascade V-C terminals, except the output module don't drive their outputs! I mean, V-C are used from output module to actually feed the output current/voltage. The power/Ready leds lights also with V-C not cascaded because the "logic" part of the modules derive power from backplane. Also the I/O interfacing circuits work, in fact I can see inputs even without V-C connected. This holds when the whole system has the same power supply.
Taking a look at FP-AI-110 manual, "Voltage and current inputs are referenced to the COM terminals, which are internally connected to each other and to the C terminals. All eight VSUP terminals are internally connected to each other and to the V terminals." and "The [c]FP-AI-110 has eight single-ended input channels. All eight channels share a common ground reference that is isolated from other modules in the FieldPoint system.". So, I guess, you may refer your inputs to another system, with separated commons. That's why you are told to connect V-C.
graziano

Imac G5, Can I use a power supply from a G4 Q-silver (rewired connector)?

I've got a G5 Imac with a blown PS, and I'm thinking of modifying a G4 Quicksilver power supply for use as the power source for a 20" Imac G5. Yeah, I know it sounds a bit weird, but hey, I was given this Imac G5 (1st Gen. 1.8GHz) for free. It's missing the back cover, and the PS is shot. So if I blow it up it no major loss. It's a project!
I have determined that the original PS is shot and needs to be replaced. I don't really want to drop $140 for a replacement PS, as I would also have purchase the back cover for another $40 + shipping. Go figure, right? It appears that most of those power suppies tend to fail early, anyway.
During my checks of the Imac internals, I also noted that during the "power on" tests, using the old power supply, I would get the second indicator light on the motherboard to flash for just a moment. According to Apple, this indicates that the motherboard is probably good, and that the power supply is bad as it's only providing a momentary voltage spike during the start up faze, before the power drains from the PS. Then it quits. So I thought, is it possible to use the QS power supply, only modifying (rewire) the main 22 pin connector voltages so they match the Imac's pinout? Both connectors are 22 pin and most of the pinout voltages match up the same. There would appear to be only two major connectors that would need to be rewired. So can I use a modified QS power supply to power my Imac?
A couple of extra notes about this Imac:
1) There is no back or stand with this Imac, it just the main guts. So I would need to build a suitable enclosure to maintain proper air flow, and use the QS power supply outside the Imac. That wouldn't appear to be a big problem.
2) My biggest concern is this. The QS power supply uses 28v for the start circuits, versus 24v for the G5 Imac PS. Would this make a significant difference, and if so, why? I'm assuming it will, but it an area I'm unsure of with the Imac. Any thoughts or experiance in this area here would be greatly appreciated.
3) Hey, if worse comes to worse, I can always purchase the extra parts and rebuild the Imac for around $200-$300 US, and it would still be a deal (at least I think so). However, at present this is just a pet project, and if it goes south (doesn't work), it's not like I'm out some major $$$$.
Thanks in advance!

I have no idea whether your ideas would work, but go to xlr8yourmac.com for some ideas. If you decide to purchase parts, try [http://www.synaptech.com/catalog> and also look at [http://www.jimwarholic.com/2008/07/how-to-repair-apple-imac-g5.php] for tips.
Let us know what you end up doing,

Help : Simple Power Supply Filter

First , thanks to everyone who answered my question on "time step too small".
I am in the filter stage of a very simple power supply. However, when I connect a capacitor to the output of my rectified signal, the output signal of the load is not what I expect to see.
I expect it to be fairly constant, and located at the peak of the input voltage.
Any help will be deeply appreciated.
I have attached the circuit to it.
Thank you.
Attachments:
Bridge Rectifier.ms9 ‏945 KB

O.K. Here's a picture of your circuit with the PI Filter attached to it. I just arbitrarily selected the components to use. I used low value caps so you can still see a slight ripple on it. A larger capacitor at the end of the bridge will filter this ripple almost completely out. Most circuits I have seen usually have this cap set somewhere in the 100uF-300uF range and the output capcitor in the range of 10uf-50uf range.
I can't remember the formylas for designing a PI Filter, but I am sure if you search the internet there are resources that can help you with that. I think I may refreshen my memeory on this subject as well.
Here's the picture and I hope this works for you.
Kittmaster's Component Database
http://ni.kittmaster.com
Have a Nice Day
Attachments:
Bridge Rectifier PI Filter.JPG ‏147 KB

Power supply spark...fried mobo?

Hey my frieed with a K8N Neo is having a problem..everything was working fine in his pc for 11 months...one day his powersupply sparked and the computer would not boot. No lights, no fans, nothing.
So he set in a replacement for a power supply and recived a new one. After plugging in everything the computer would still do nothing, no lights fans etc. Do you think the motherboard is fried? I've checked all the jumpers and they are fine.
His specs are:
Athlon 64 3200
MSI K8N Platinum
X-Infinity case
512 Geil Ram
Thermaltake 420W purepower (W0009R)
120 GB Hard drive
Thanks

Gildan,
You asked the following:
btw, how do u do (4)? (which was how to read voltages on motherboard with voltage multimeter (VMM).
Fiirst thing to do is to read and understand following thoroughly:
VMM USAGE INFORMATION
Many troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage.
Usually, each system-unit measurement setting has several ranges of operation. DC voltage, for example, usually can be read in several scales, to a maximum of 200 millivolts (mv), 2v, 20v, 200v, and 1,000v. Because computers use both +5 and +12v for various operations, you should use the 20v maximum scale for making your measurements. Making these measurements on the 200mv or 2v scale could "peg the meter" and possibly damage it because the voltage would be much higher than expected. Using the 200v or 1,000v scale works, but the readings at 5v and 12v are so small in proportion to the maximum that accuracy is low.
If you are taking a measurement and are unsure of the actual voltage, start at the highest scale and work your way down. Most of the better meters have autoranging capability: The meter automatically selects the best range for any measurement. This type of meter is much easier to operate. You just set the meter to the type of reading you want, such as DC volts, and attach the probes to the signal source. The meter selects the correct voltage range and displays the value. Because of their design, these types of meters always have a digital display rather than a meter needle.
CAUTION: Whenever using a multimeter to test any voltage that could potentially be 110v or above, always use one hand to do the testing, not two. Either clip one lead to one of the sources and probe with the other, or hold both leads in one hand.
If you are holding a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When the power is flowing from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. Hearts have a tendency to quit working when subjected to high voltages. They're funny that way.
I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate, as well as much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit (made for Radio Shack by Beckman) in the $25 price range; the meter is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, PC troubleshooting and test uses.
CAUTION: You should be aware that many analog meters can be dangerous to digital circuits. These meters use a 9v battery to power the meter for resistance measurements. If you use this type of meter to measure resistance on some digital circuits, you can damage the electronics, because you essentially are injecting 9v into the circuit. The digital meters universally run on 3 to 5v or less.
Now that you have a nice shiny DIGITAL VMM make sure that you read its manual to understand out it works. Practice taking reading on household batteires and the likes first. Once you are confident and have confirmed that you have the proper lead in the neg/pos connector of your multimeter you are now ready to take some reading from your motherboard. Remember to always ground yourself first to dissipate static electricity, Put the black lead sensor against the case and then use the red lead sensor to carefully probe various points on your motherboard. Be very careful to only touch one point (soldering point, chipset leg, or a motherboard trace) at a time. You want to absolutely avoid short circuiting two such points. As long as you only touch one single point at a time you will be safe and get good reading were voltage is present. I usually use a gator clip connector to affix the black lead to the case, leaving me one hand for flashlight or magnifying glass and other to handle red VMM lead.
Here is how to get a Vddr reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=583463
(Put red lead sensor on green dot)
Here is how to get a Vcore reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23902&stc=1
Your Board layout may be slightly different but just keep looking for something similar near your RAM and CPU. Remember to always use only the red lead sensor while being extremely careful to only touch only one spot at a time.
Have fun,

Dead power supply fan

The power supply fan on my 2002 Quicksilver Dual 1gig G4 just quit and I am obviously concerned about the ramifications. I've read a few posts in different places about fan replacements but not sure I am up to that. Does anyone have any advice / cautions about power supply replacement?
Unfortunately this is my only computer and I can't really afford the downtime if I take it somewhere. I have reasonable confidence in my ability to do the work (I've added hard drives, replaced the cd drive, ram etc.). Any tips and especially a lead on a good (inexpensive) hardware source would be appreciated.
Thanks,
John
2002 Quicksilver dual 1g G4

You'll need to remove the power supply from the computer and open it up to access the fan. Installing the new fan may involve splicing its leads to the existing ones attached to the circuit board. Beyond the fan's physical size, you need to match its voltage rating and output (measured in CFM), so that you buy a suitable replacement. The fan's noise level (dBA) should also be considered, so compare the specs on that. According to the info on this page, the fan's specs are:
Protechnic 80x80x25mm MAGIC (made by Sechang Micro)
12 Volt, 0.24 Amp
38.27 CFM, 3000 RPM (max), 29 dBA
P/N:MGA8012HS

Obsolete Power supply circuit diagram

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