OT (Slightly): Printing fluorescent garments in CMYK

Apart from using a spot colour what is the best practise? Where can I go to find this sort if thing? Google just thinks you're trying to print with fluorescent inks on an actual garment, I'm looking for tips on how to print an image of one.

Apart from using a spot color, there are no alternatives
A lot of spot colors fall outside the printable CMYK gamut, and fluorescent inks doubly do so! Metallic inks such as "gold" and "silver" also cannot be approximated with CMYK.

Similar Messages

Printing a .pdf in CMYK not working??

Hello!
I need to create a pdf of an advert that I am having printed in a magazine. The Ad is about 10cm X 10cm so can fit onto and A4. The magazine say they need it with full printer marks inlcuding density bars and registration marks.
As far as I can see, the only way to get these marks on a colour advert is to go to Advanced Print Settings > Separations > Output: Composite CMYK. Then go to Page Setting and check all the Printer Marks.
I then put the name of the printer as Adobe PDF (with property setting "Press Quality" preset chosen) and then click print. It seems to print but then nothing happens! It doesnt come up with a dialog box to chose a file name or anything, even though I have selected "Prompt for Adobe PDF filename".
If I do the exact same thing with composite greycale chose, or composite RGB chosen it works fine! Why wont composite CMYK work?
Any ideas?
Liz

Hi,
Thank-you for answering!
I realise I wasnt very clear (probably because of my frustration!), but I am actually making the advert using Microsoft Publisher (not very hi-tech I know, I wish I could afford InDesign!).
I tried to add the printer marks using Acrobat X Pro after printing the .pdf from the publisher file, however the printer marks are not aligned with the advert, which sits in the middle of the A4 page. I tried to change the Crop Box to fit it, but it wasnt very accurate and was difficult to use.
I think the problem is to do my postscript options but I just dont understand it.
I dont understand why it is just the 'Composite CMYK' that it struggles with, and not any of the other options.
Any other ideas...?
Thanks,
Liz

Separate into print colours other than cmyk

Hello.
Here's somthing I'd like to try in various printing procedures that don't necessarily provide their own rip (silkscreen, risograph), so my question in general and in theory: Is there a way to seperate a colour image (rgb, lab, or even cmyk) into a combination of something like some Pantone 3945 C, 300 C, 192 C, 7407 C, 806 C and some intense Black? Knowing of course that with such a combination, the resulting colours wouldn't be quite true to the orginal, and that both mentionend printing techniques will result in somewhat unexpected results particularly when in need of a raster for six colours. But the same question goes for simpler combinations. (And of course, with the inention to have something at least remotely similar to the original, converting a greyscale image to doutone (tritone quadtone) is not really an option.) An additional question would be where and how to rasterize (would those producing the films for the silkscreen know how to? What if they don't? And what about the risogaph?)
Thanks for any idea

Please let me correct myself:
From ProfileMaker 5 Professional help:
Creating a MultiColor Profile
With the MultiColor Module you can create MultiColor ICC profiles for output processes
with up to 10 colors.
Two different modes are available and will determine which profiles you can generate:
– CMYK+N for MultiColor profiles with CMYK and up to 6 additional spot colors (MultiColor Module)
– N-color for MultiColor profiles with up to 10 spot colors even without CMYK.
Best regards --Gernot Hoffmann

RGB or CMYK colour formatting for iPhoto Albums printing.

Hi.
I'm putting my first iPhoto Album together. Info given from Apple about what colour format to use for your photos, says to use RGB. While this is corrcet for digital monitors and screens. Mass printing uses CMYK. Any images supplied to a printers in RGB will colour shift when printed in CMYK. No matter what a printer tells you, these colour shifts can be very noticable. I'm an Advertsing Art Director and I've seen the shift that happens.
I will be checking/colour correting all photos submitted to the iPhoto Album with Adobe Photoshop. And many will very probably undergo some corrections. Be it through levels, curves, hue/saturation, etc. Nothing to anything near an excessive level, but enough to make obvious improvements.
So I will then be faced with the choice of whether to save the images out in RGB or CMYK.
Can someone with some technique knowledge, from the iPhoto team, tell me/reasure me why RGB has been specified? And if CMYK wouldn't actually be a preferable colour format to supply in, considering you'll be printing them in CMYK.
Many Thanks, Jim.

You're absolutely correct. I was referring to notes make a number of years ago in regards to iPhoto 5 and that RGB was recommended for both books and prints.
I was confusing CMYK with Grayscale with Dot Gain 20% profile when stating iPhoto didn't support it which it didn't fully support until iPhoto 9.
In fact I just ran a test with iPhoto 6, 7 and 8 with a CMYK AND GrayScale files with the following results:
iPhoto 6 (06): wouldn't import CMYK but did GrayScale. The grayscale file would only display as a black thumbnail and negative full image. If the DotGain 20% profile was stipped from it the iamge would dispaly normally.
iPhoto 7 (08): wouldn't import CMYK but did GrayScale. The grayscale file would only display as a black thumbnail and negative full image. If the DotGain 20% profile was stipped from it the iamge would dispaly normally.
iPhoto 8 (09): neither file would import which is surprising:
iPhoto 9.2.3 (11): both imported and viewed normally.
iPhoto 9.4 (11): both imported and viewed normally.
In Oct, 2007 I got an email from Apple support with the following:
Also as iphoto makes a pdf of the book and then uploads it to keep the size down, it doesn't matter if the pics are RGB or CMYK as a pdf is a closed file. But since it is going through prinergy it has an RGB checker so this most be switched off. It is how the software in prinergy handle's it that causes the washed out affect as it takes the Red Green Blue colours and tries to convert to Cyan Magenta Yellow Black. Now the colour spectrum in printing between rgb and cmyk is quite different looking at a colour wheel will show you. The best way i can describe it is if you have a pantone book which has spot on one side and process on the other you can see a colour difference. Or if you use quark open up the colours and again switch between process and spot.
BUT ONLY CONVERT PICS TO CMYK IF YOU ONLY INTEND TO ORDER BOOKS. IF YOU INTEND TO ORDER PRINTS IT WILL NEED TO BE RGB.
Here's how i see it:
1. Apple doesn't want 2 different versions of the pics floating about as running CMYK through a photomachine (as prints you would order in the high street) will not print correctly.
2. RGb's going through a CMYK press using prinergy will attempt to convert and produce the washed out effect, or yellowing effect BUT will still print.
So it will use the 2nd option as it will still produce prints normally and books with a slightly washed out effect. Now to most people in the high street, who will notice a difference?
I have just received my latest book saved as CMYK pics in tiff format and no washed out effect. What i will say is The quality if still not as good as a print. Now we use a docucolour 5252 at work and the colour quality is better. I wonder how often the machine is calibrated and what colour curve it is set to?
However, I am unable to import a CMYK file in any iPhoto version until iPhoto 9. Go figure.
Thanks for the feedback. Hadn't addressed this particular subject in quite a long time.

Help with Cool Gray printing in CMYK

Setting up a corporate guideline book and not sure how to specify the two Cool Grays they use when used as CMYK.
Cool Gray 8 (0, 1, 0, 43)
Cool Gray 10 (0, 2, 0, 60).
When using the Cool Gray 10 as bodycopy, wouln't it be better to just use a screen of black? I don't think the 2% magenta would even print, but if it would, there would be the chance for ghosting is slightly out of registration.
I can see using these builds above for larger areas of color, but not for copy. Or are the 1% and 2% not even worth worring about becuase they wouldn't even show up?
Thanks

I took a look at those 2 Spot colors in one of Pantone's printed reference guides. Those guides are printed using industry standard printing processes, including Heidelberg printing presses. Small percentages like 1-2% does not mean they will not print. But, for argument's sake, if they did land outside the Black in an out-of-register scenario like you've outlined, the 1-2% Magenta even off kilter by 1/32" would be hard to detect without a loupe. But, by looking at the printed reference guide, you can clearly see the subtle difference the Magenta plays on the color. That said, I would retain the industry standard of the full CMYK equivalents rather than a stand alone screen tint of the Black.
One more thing. Pantone and the entire print industry use those CMYK numbers to match as closely as possible on-press to the Spot color. If you are building a standards guide for your company, stick to the industry standards rather than deviate into your own subjective opnion about what or if a color will print. It's already been determined to print. If your company wanted a Spot Gray that, when converted to CMYK would equal 60% Black, then they'd be using that instead.

How to export a CMYK document to a black/white or greyscale pdf for print?

Hello, I have some knowledge in graphics design, but very little about color management.
Currently I need to convert an instruction manual I made to black and white output only. We'd prefer to keep the indesign (.indd) and it's source images in their respective colors, but when exporting the document to a pdf my printer can use, we'd like to make that document a black and white pdf, as it's a black/white manual anyway. A little color conversion isn't to bad, as long as it's reasonable. all images that might give trouble are in greyscale anyway.
So how do I export a full color indesign document to a black&white/greyscale pdf?
ps:
very newb question, but if you don't ask, you never learn:
When do you use the colours "registration", and when do you use "paper"?

I am also trying desperately to convert my CMYK colors into a grayscale so that when I print the document the printer only uses K (and C=0 M=0 Y=0)
And I saw this bit of info you wrote a few months ago. I am working working with photoshop CS4. I tried to follow it but I found the following difficulties. Hope you don't mind me writing over your text.
RGB image --> Grayscale
New doc --> CMYK image,same size, empty
Copy Grayscale and paste into the K-channel of the CMYK image. - (It only allows me to copy onto the CMYK layer but not onto the Black so I had to Drag layer onto channel delete the black layer and rename my new layer as black but then the document changes from CMYK to Multichannel and I have to re-change the mode again to CMYK but this already prints CMYK...)
Place image in InDesign doc.
Everything else (vector, text) by K-only.
(...then when I placet that CMYK file into InDesign, and PDF it, on the output preview still separates the grayscale image into CMYK and when I print, the printer still prints CMYK instead of only K)
So then I say OK so.. let's use the Multichannel document instead, which it actually seems to print on K only (while CMY=0), it only allows me to save as PSD. and when I try to place it on Indesign... I have a message saying that this file is using an unsupported colour space, only RGB,CMYK, lab, indexed, and bitmap are supported by the photoshop filter
On top of that I have been asked for a Jpeg image in black and white which prints only K (while CMY=0). I have tried with channel mixed presets and even though the info on screen is now C=0, M=0, Y=0 and K= various values, when I send it to print. The printer still prints with all the CMYK colours
Any advice would be so much appreciated!
Thank you

How to convert CMYK files to K only (C=0 M=0 Y=0) for print, PDF and JPGE

I have a Jpeg image in grayscale and I need to print it in K only (while CMY=0) instead of CMYK. I have tried with channel mixed presets and even though the info on screen is now C=0, M=0, Y=0 and K= various values, when I send it to print. The printer still prints with all the CMYK colours so instead of a clean monochrome colour I get yellows reds and blues.
Any advice would be so much appreciated!
M

Hi Gustavo,
Thank you for your email. My non-human printer is a cannon CLC 5151 and the funny thing is that it does print in black sometimes.
I have a psd document with C=0 M=0 Y=0 K=various which I have created with the channel mixer presets. - I sent it to print and = 4 coloured grey result
I open an indesign document and place this very same file (plus others with the same presets with which I create my composition) - I send it to print and = black only
Then, I say great it's printing on black so now I just need to export this composition as a JPEG
So I export it and when I send to print = 4 coloured grey
The is when I realise that the C=0 M=0 Y=0 and various K pressets I originally created have been lost again on this JPEG.
I come back to indesign and export a PDF and I find that my original presets to black only are now divided into CMYK colour again.
Perhaps the channel mixer presets are only a guide and they are not preserved when I import the document anywhere else, but I wonder How come this psd document prints in 4 colured grey despite what you can see on the info?
I have tried to paste the image into the black channel of a new document but I can't save it as a JPGE nor I can place onto an indesign either because it doesn't recognize the colour mode.
I agree with you in that it's nicer to get a greyscale with 4 colour ink but only if the printer is properly calibrated and ours isn't at all. and I need to present both indesign and JPEG prints and they should be looking the same.
M
Saludos desde Londres

CMYK and RGB with a laser printer

I'm using ID CS2 and a Konica Minolta bizhub C353P printer.
I was supplied with a pdf artwork file by a customer. I believe it's CMYK, but am not sure, as Document Properties in Acrobat doesn't give that information. Firstly, is there a simple way of checking whether a pdf file is CMYK or RGB?
I placed the pdf artwork into ID and printed the indd file, but found that the colours were not quite correct. So I imported the original pdf file into Photoshop and changed it from CMYK to RGB. I then saved it as a tiff file and placed it back in the indd file. The colours now printed correctly. Next question - is there a better way of converting a pdf file from CMYK to RGB and vice versa?
When I printed the indd file the print driver would only allow me to print in Composite RGB - Composite CMYK and all the other options were greyed out. However, if I printed to Acrobat, Composite CMYK and the other options were available. Now as I'm printing to a CMYK laser printer, I would have thought it better to print in Composite CMYK. Am I correct?
And can anyone suggest why the printer driver won't allow it?

Edward
here are some useful operations by Professional Acrobat 7:
How to analyze image color spaces in a PDF:
Tools > Print Production > Preflight > Digital Press (Color) >
Execute > Overview > Images.
How to convert images in a PDF (here DeviceCMYK to sRGB):
Tools > Print Production > Convert Colors > Device CMYK:
Convert > Profile > sRGB > Embed as Output Profile > Execute
IMO there is no choice for an input CMYK profile.
I don't know whether embedded profiles (not to be expected
for CMYK) or a global Output Intent are honoured.
How to edit images without loading the whole PDF in
Photoshop (which would rasterize everything):
Tools > Advanced Editing > TouchUp Object Tool > Right Mouse
Click on Image > Edit Image > (Opens Image in PhS) >
Edit here > Save > Close (Shows PDF with modified Image) >
Save As by new name.
Best regards --Gernot Hoffmann

Question about preparing CMYK colours for print

hey guys, Im preparing some artwork in CMYK to go on a CD cover
on the printers site they say that if you have up to 400% colour (so 100% in C,M,Y, and K) it can get too thick and start cracking and falling off.
"We recommend that you stick to a total of 230% wherever possible for any colour (i.e. the combined % of C, M, Y, and K add up to less than 230%)."
now I notice in my image the black areas are indeed up to 400% ink, is there a way I can reduce the colours correctly so nothing goes over 230%, without losing my lighter colours or blacks? thankyou

But black ink by it self should suffice.
Mainly for text and cartain graphic elements, in my opinion, or in completely b&w compositions.
Additionally it might cause registration issues when black objects overlap colored elements.
Spaciousmind, please provide a screenshot or lores of your layout, so that we can provide relevant advice.
And how did you arrive at 400% Total Area Coverage (TAC) in the first place?
Basically I would recommend
• to edit photographic and painterly images in their original RGB-spaces (which can be contained as Smart Objects in CMYK-files) and
• create only graphical and text elements in the seprataed CMYK-file.
230% TAC seems very low, as for example newspaper print requires that low a number (and probably some other processes that are not offset-print).
Please ask your printer to specify their CMYK-space by way of an ICC-profile.
Edit: By the way, even if the printer should provide an ICC-profile simply converting your CMYK-file to that will probably not be the best way to go.

Printing CMYK using InDesign CS3

I am currently using an Epson SX200 to print CMYK from Adobe CS3 InDesign but it comes out in RGB.
The trouble is when I select the 'Output' folder I cannot choose the Composite CMYK selector as it is 'greyed out'! Only the RGB is available.
To test this I attempted to print a 100% Cyan box but when it printed it had Magenta in it.
Please, how can I get my InDesign to print in CMYK.
I have gone through many Preferences but all the CMYK options appear to be 'greyed out'!
Thanks,

merton69 wrote:
…I presumed that because my Epson is a CYMK printer…
No, it is NOT. Your printer is not a "CMYK printer" but an RGB printer that happens to use a combination of various cyan, magenta, yellow and black ink cartridges to print your RGB images.
The printer expects to receive RGB images, and anytime anyone sends it a CMYK image, the printer driver converts it to RGB of the fly. Always.
merton69 wrote:
…With most of my printing the colour never seems to match what is intended?…
No, not if you're sending it CMY images. Your output will NEVER match your images that way.
Start learning about color management here:
http://www.gballard.net/psd/cmstheory.html
And keep this in mind:
The printer driver converts your CMYK images to RGB of the fly. Always.
Wo Tai Lao Le
我太老了

Photo book print quality: large vs. medium (both softcover)

hello all,
I just wanted to share my experience about the difference in print quality between the medium softcover and large (in my case, softcover) books from iPhoto, something I wondered about before I took the plunge and ordered them.
I recently received copies of both, ordered a week apart, both using the 300 dpi hack, but unfortunately of diff't photos in each, so the comparison won't be too scientific.
First impressions: the photos in the large softcover seemed to me better than the medium. You can detect some very fine dots with the naked eye, in the places where a color shades into white. Overall, not objectionable at all, especially at a reasonable viewing distance. Akin to a decent/average inkjet photo. Meanwhile, the medium format struck me as having a worse print resolution, like a photo in a newspaper or cheaply printed magazine. The halftone pattern seemed more noticeable.
However, on closer inspection, side by side, I can see the halftone dots in each, and I wonder if they're actually printed at the same resolution. I think it was partly the bigger size of the average photo in the large book that convinced me it had a better resolution, and the smaller photos in a medium book can make the whole thing look bad. Also, I can definitely detect banding from the halftone pattern in the medium book that I don't notice in the large; but could this be due to the subject matter in the medium (blurred washes of muted color) more than a print resolution difference? Perhaps.
My conclusion: while it could be that the print resolution on the large is slightly better, I suspect my perception of the quality difference is based more on photo size and subject matter (sharp focus w/patterns, texture, moderate detail rather than empty color looks best). Still, despite my suspicion that the print resolution is the same, I can't shake the sense the large looks a little better.
Which is too bad in a way, as I think the medium has a lot going for it: it's cheaper than the large, and I actually much prefer to have a series of single, full-bleed images at 6x8 than two or three or more cluttered together on a bigger page for the same price. Plus I find the peek-a-boo cutout on the cover of the large book a bit cheesy.
So if you're going to go medium, I would definitely stay away from those six-photos-a-page layouts, especially if you have people in your small photos: their features will be degraded enough they start to look a little funny/unrecognizable. Bigger is better.
And if anyone has the same photo at the same size in two differently sized books to compare, that would settle things.
Also, I had a number of grayscale scans that I converted to rgb before adding to iPhoto, and the b&w photos printed in the book look great. While I would describe them as 'cool', I don't detect a noticeable color cast, and the blacks are decent.
Overall, as an amateur whose expectations were aimed a bit low, I'm pleased with both for the price, and will look to large for special occasions, medium for everyday photosets.

You're confusing two similar though technically different things.
You have the dpi (dot's per inch in the raster file) resolution of the images (assuming the image will not be reduced or enlarged) of 300 dpi - that is a static resolution and it one of two resolution settings that affect the quality of a printed image.
I was told the books are printed cmyk with screening so the other resolution that you have no control over is the "LPI" or "Lines per Inch" of the printing process. The CMYK separations are each printed at a different angle to achieve the full color effect.
The soft cover books appear to be printed at a lesser lpi than the hard cover books which would give the images a courser look to them.
I have not compared the books under a loop so this is going on what I was told.

Creating PDF brochure for printing: Black color adjustment

Hi guys,
I created a brochure in Idesign which has a black background color and in addition also some pictures with black backgrounds.
In order to print the brochure I want to create a PDF (with the right order of pages, e.g. page 1 next to page 8, 2 next to 7 etc.) via the "print function".
The page order is not a problem, but the black background color is rather gray instead of black - so there is quite a difference between the black background color of the pictures and of the whole background.
(When using the normal "export function" of Indesign I know how to solve the color problem, but then I cannot create a PDF with the right page order for printing...)
Has anyone an idea how to solve this?
Thanks for your help in advance!
Best,
Chris

Your images all use some form of Rich Black for the background, and that prints using all 4 CMYK inks. Your 100%K background will almost always seem gray next to that because it is, in fact, lighter. This will be true even if you use a profile conversion to make it also a 4-color black.
You can make your own rich black swatch and use it as the background (sample a few of the images to get some idea of a good mix), but in truth your images are still probably not going to match all that well. Images tend to have color variations across the background, and your ID background is a flat color, so even a slight mismatch can cause the edges to be obvious. There can also be differences in color on some printers caused by differences in the way raster and vector content are processesd.
I prefer to embrace that, or at least admit it is going to happen, and either use a completely different color for the background so the mismatch always shows, and looks deliberate rather than like a mismatch, or I add a stroke to the image frames, often paper, to break the continuity and disguise the mismatch.
As far as imposing the file and exporting, there are a number of free scripts, and an actual plugin, IDimposer which is also currently free, that can impose your file for you before you export. You can learn more about the plugin at Overview | IDImposer

What is the best colour to use for a 'Gold' effect (for printing)

I've had a look on the colour tab and (maybe I'm looking too hard!) but I can't find the best shade of yellow to use for a gold effect when printing - anybody got a CMYK or RGB code???
Thanks very much,
Mark

Shunith,
I apologize for the woolly way.
C: 0,
M: 9 (very pale) - 24 or 15 - 24,
Y: 100,
K: 0.
Here is an image quickly made for old thread, showing a slightly slanting gradient from 0/24/100/0 to 0/0/0/0 and back, created with a few intermediate steps to make it steeper in the pale part, to make it more radiant:

Is there a serious flaw in LRs Print Module?

I have been having no end of difficulty getting a decent print from LR. The more I search for answers the more I find that others have the same issue. It seems to be related mostly to Canon and HP printers. Most Epson users indicate they are getting great prints.
Multiple combinations of settings have been suggested (all from very helpful folks, thks!) but all attempts have not produced anything remotely close to whats on the screen. PSE3 prints perfectly for me, and other comments indicate that CS2&3 and PSE4&5 also deliver superior results to LR.
It seems that there a serious problem with LRs Print Module whereby it cannot interpret and convert profiles properly? Has this been officially addressed by Adobe? If so, please direct to where I can find that information, please.
Dont misunderstand me, LR is a fantastic program and a very powerful RAW workflow tool. Even the Print Module has some really cool stuff, but not so cool when the colours dont come out close to the original.
Where does one go from here to find a solution to this problem?

Hi Dave
I posted this earlier in this thread about CS3 printing problems that Adobe has addressed and I just reviewed it again and noticed some common problems under the "Issues Fixed in this Release" as follows:
"Color matching is now correct on BPE printers (notably the Epson 3800) when Photoshop is set to handle color management."
"BPE Printers expect a Profile to be passed when Photoshop manages color. Photoshop now passes the Profile."
"Epson 2400 driver no longer does double color profiling when PS is handling the color management and we explicitly turn off Epson color management in the Print dialog."
"Color management will now produce identical results on Intel and PowerPC-based Macs."
"Correct Page Setup now comes up in the Print dialog when you change printers to print different documents."
"Page Setup would sometimes show the preferences for a previously selected printer."
"RGB to CMYK conversion with a specific ICC profile and Adobe(ACE) engine is fixed."
"Specific types of ICC profiles were being incorrectly converted. Converted images would appear close to black, if not entirely black."
These appear to be the same issues that are happening in LR that require a similar fix that CS3 required.
Here's the link again:
http://www.adobe.com/support/photoshop/ts/documents/kb402846/PhotoshopPrintingNotes.pdf

Why do I need to use a CMYK profile?

Hi all,
I am new to these forums, but have some theoretical and a bit of practical knowledge on Color Management. I know what a dot gain, color space, true black vs composite black, etc are, yet I struggle to build the big picture of the whole thing. I am actually doing design work, where we are going to print a brochure. I have done the Illustrator artwork, it has an embedded image and I am trying to make it ready for a good precise print.
My question is, why do I need a CMYK profile at all??
As I understand it, my document IS CMYK already, i.e. it uses component C, M, Y and K numbers for artwork primitives, and as far as I can understand the whole point of working with CMYK instead of RGB (which is for additive colorimetry - i.e electron guns and LCDs) is the fact that it is suitable for printers. If Cyan, Magenta, Yellow and BlacK inks get input from the CMYK numbers, then the print should look the same on all ink-utilizing devices, should it not?
That said, I understand the point of RGB-to-CMYK conversion and vice versa, since obviously i have to preview my art on my monitor before it gets into printing. But since CMYK profiles exist, does it mean printers printing the same CMYK values get different results? (disregarding issues of different paper weights and dot gains)
Thanks. This has been bugging me, and I am not THAT much into printing yet as to buy the Real World Color Management book i ve been hearing so much about.

If I may add,
The ONLY times most of us need to embed an ICC profile in a CMYK file are:
1) We want to PROOF it faithfully on a hardware-calibrated monitor (Photoshop reads the embedded profile and Converts it to Monitor RGB).
2) We want to PROOF it faithfully on any other hardware-calibrated printer that uses a different Target color space (Photoshop reads the embedded profile and Converts it to the specific target profile). (Or the workflow ignores my Source Profile and Converts to target proofing space based on the wrong working space).
3) We need to CONVERT it to another profile (Photoshop reads the embedded profile and Converts it to a new target space/profile).
PERSONALLY, when I deliver CMYK it is already Converted to the correct CMYK (directly from my 16-bit Adobe RGB file), and I do not want anyone downstream dinking around with My Color.
The old Quark did this task nicely -- simple place the tif and print the job.
Today's pdf and color-managed layout programs make understanding and implementing this instruction much more confusing and hazardous (how to send 'the numbers' straight through).
If I trust the print shop 100%, I will hand them my 8-bit Adobe RGB and let them do the Conversion to their press CMYK.
Otherwise, send [my] CMYK 'numbers' straight through. Period.
+++++++
The problems with people who do not understand HOW ICC profile work is they will strip my profile (knowingly or unknowingly) and Assign-Apply-Assume their own profile -- effectively -- hosing my color.
This problem is easy to see in Photoshop by Assign profile.
The classic real-world example is the old-school print shop's clueless "color expert" who ignores our embedded profile, because he says, he has turned "color management off" and "doesn't use profiles." He tells us our file is bad because his print is bad, and he will try to correct our bad color and print another round of proofs.
Does this sound familiar?
What the cave man actually did was strip our embedded file of its profile, and/or he Applied-Assumed-Assigned his own working space to our file then he takes a sledgehammer and beats our color up into his closed workflow (and he is probably working on an uncalibrated monitor to boot).

OT (Slightly): Printing fluorescent garments in CMYK

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