P7N RIP Finally, BUT...

Hi Guys,
My P7N Platinum finally died, I think.
Please read this and guide me.
I bought the motherboard 1 year ago, in Feb 2008.
Few months back, I changed the Graphic Cards and Shaved its Audio CD in Port to make room for GTX260x SLi.
Ran fine but after few days it stopped posting, the fans will run and the LEDs will be on BUT there will be no post. I changed the RAM to First (Green ones) and the PC started, So I was running in Single channel.
Later I changed from 650W Antec to Corsair HX1000W. All running well.
I decided to change the processor from E8400 to E8500 E0 (Stupid me) the PC started fine and well, no problem. Ran few tests with the processor all was well.
Then I went into the BIOS to OC it, FSB set to 450, and Volts to Max but White for CPU only (dont remmeber exact, but no Red color Volts), rest was left as it is. The PC booted BUT during Vista mid it stopped and shut down. (I use Thermalright Ultra 120)
NOW what happened that I press the Power Button the fans and LEDs of fan will start for a Fraction of a sec and then it will die. The Red LED of the board was On.
I tried again and again but in vain, I changed to old processor, same results.
I changed the Power supply (PC Power and cooling 750W) Same.
Then once I pressed the Power Button, immediately all fans started BUT there was smoke and this part (Pic) burned out  and there was Electric Current runining through the PC giving me tingling sensations   
I removed everything power cords etc etc but there was current STILL. I removed PSU took it out too. After sometime PC was Quiet. AT that time there was no processor in the Socket as I was testing for Beeps or anything.
Anyways I tested the PSU (Both) with that Shorting Jumper technique and they are powering up fine. I bought a Multimeter and tested volts in various leads and the PSUs are working fine.
PLEASE HELP and guide me what happened.
RIG;
MSI 750i Platinum,
E8400/E8500,
Thermalright120-Ultra Extreme,
Corsair TWIN2X4096-6400C4DHX,
GTX260 Core216 SC x SLi,
Xi-Fi Xtreme Gamer,
Maxtor500GB,WD Ext500GB, Seagate320GB/200GB/80GB,
Samsung LCD22" 2232GW,
Corsair1000W PSU,
This what Bunt out;

Thanks for the replies guys.
Quote from: kourosh on 04-April-09, 03:46:07
your board may be still under warranty. msi should change it.
As I told that I shaved the Audio Port, and reading at the MSI site they do not accept if any modification made 
And I am in middle east now, so sending it to USA will cost me a LOT and off course getting it back will too.
Quote from: Henry on 04-April-09, 03:46:58
It appears to be a fried voltage regulator. I don't know exactly what it's for but a short circuit or serious overload caused it.
When this thing burnt the Board was NOT connected to anything, No Hard Drives, No CPU or FAN, only 1 Case Fan 
I would or am wishing to know what happened?
I opened up the casing and saw the Motherboard and Tray, there is a lot of space between the Board and Plate, only thing that is touching the Tray is the Screw place. When I put the Mobo on the Tray, No screws, there is a continuation (checked with Multimeter, it says thats continuity) when touching the Board and the Plate?
Although when this happened the back Plate was touching the top of the Ports (audio, USB etc at the back, but its been like this ever since)
Thanks again, I would love to hear the reason, IF it was motherboards fault i can move on, IF the casing caused it I need to make changes, I dont think it should have been the PSU, Hard disks or DVD etc.
I havent checked my processor or RAM I am HOPING that they are ok, otherwise its gonna be a big screw up     

Similar Messages

  • P7N Diamond finally here

    MSI P7N Diamond available at Newegg: $299.00: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813130158
    Official page up here: http://www.msicomputer.com/product/p_spec.asp?model=P7N_Diamond&class=mb
    Paul

    I just don't see the point in upgrading right now.  I mean only the highest end cards will support tri sli.  And I'm not sure that the performance boost is worth the cost of that yet.  Right now, I haven't found anything that has slowed down my single 8800gtx Ultra.  And man, the manual says to run tri-sli you need atleast 1000w power supply.  Thank god I don't live very far from TMI, just run a direct line from the power plant to my computer.
    And PCI2.0?  How many cards are around that are designed for it?  Will legacy cards see any bost from it?
    Really, the 780 is a minor upgrade.  I have seen boards from Gigabyte that support both ddr2 and ddr3.  If the 780i would have this option I might upgrade, but that's still a long shot.
    The only major improvement that I can see is that it actually has an X-Fi PCI-Express card which I would assume would be directly supported by Creative directly.  This is a huge improvement over the onboard chip which Creative will not support.
    Another nice improvement is the back pannel cmos clear button.  Looking at the layout of the headers, they finally added more fan headers, 4 system fans plus the cpu.  However, the floppy and ide headers are in a very odd place, at the bottom of the board.  Looks like they also added another external sata port and dropped the internal hardware raid (probably because it didn't work).  Another note is looking at the board layout, there are led lights everywhere.  I'm not sure why you would need a light on each card slot, but it has one, along with each memory slot.  If I'm pulling memory or cards, I don't think I'd have the power on to light them.
    So anyway, that's my quick review of this board.  I think I'll just wait until nVidia comes out with a true major upgrade.
    Interestingly, MSI has not updated the supported cpu yet so while I would think this board would support the new yorkfields, it's hard to say for sure yet.

  • I am having trouble with my iphone5. I finally had SFR after 2 hours or more waiting to switch the service of the sim card. The phone worked finally but after upgrading my itunes, the iphone 5 will not even let me sign in nor give password.

    I was so happy to receive my iphone5 today but, happiness turned into frustration. The new sim card was unlocked etc... The phone finally worked after 2 hrs or more and since I upgraded my itunes, the phone is blocked. It will only let me after being turned on unlock the phone. Once I get to ID apple and password, I can put it in but, then it says it has timed out. It also says I cannot connect to the server. What is going on???
    I am in France and there is no Apple Store open on Sunday, my phone service is closed as well.
    I hope somone can help me asap.
    Thanks

    I think you can solve your problems by removing your AppleID email address from BOTH the Messages setting on your iPhone and the iMessages settings on your Mac.
    On iPhone:
    Settings > Messages > iMessage > Dissabled
    Settings > Messages > Send & Receive > touch the "(i)" < touch "Remove This Email"
    On Mac:
    Open "Messages" application
    Click "Messages menu > Preferences
    Click "Accounts"
    Select your AppleID account
    Under the "You can be reached for messages at" settings, uncheck your AppleID email address and your phone number
    Then uncheck the "Enable this account" setting
    And lastly, ask all of your friends with iPhones to delete all iMessage conversations (blue bubbles) in their entirety.
    To test, send a friend a new text using their phone number (not their email address) and watch the color of the bubble.  If it's green then you are using SMS.

  • Hi I am a new iMac user. I got my iTunes on here finally, but now it is telling me I haven't authorized my computer? When I ask @ the app. store- no answers... What did I miss?

    Hi, I am a new iMac user and I finally got my itunes to recognize  my music to the iMac, but now it says my computer is not authorized?! When I ask at the App. store about this- they have nothing, but that is where the iMac sends me? So what did I miss?

    TARDISvt wrote:
    When I click on the apple in the left cornor I get App. Store- but I do not get the choice to authorize?...
    You need to Open iTunes and then click on Store in the Menu Bar.
    See this Discussion...
    https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4631735?tstart=0

  • HT1567 hey there just trying to rip cds but with no luck,, error 50 keeps being displayed , any ideas

    hi there just trying to rip Goa Head cds to i tunes but have an error 50 ???please help

    It's brand new and should be working. Take it and you CDs to an Apple genius and have them take a look.

  • IMessage activated finally, but what about all those iMessages I couldn't receive for days. Where are they?!

    I had the problem of not receiving messages after updating to IOS 7. I was finally able to reactivate iMessages after restoring my phone. BUT, is there anyway to receive those iMessages that I couldn't receive for the last 5 days, or are they forever lost in the abyss?
    Help! I know there were some important messages I COULDN'T receive while iMessage was messed up!
    Anyway to catch those from outer space?

    The alignment page is for the printer to "look" at.  It has cyan and black lines only, the lines are read by a sensor in the printer to align and calibrate the printhead.
    The diagnostic page is what you generally would use to diagnose issues.  The document here has a sample of the page, as well as common defects and how to address them.  See solution six.
    Bob Headrick,  HP Expert
    I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
    If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
    If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

  • IMovie "finalized" but audio is different than project view - Why?

    I have just "finalized" my iMovie Project.  I am happy with the sound levels and audio ducking in project view.  Now after I have finalized the project the audio levels are too loud and ducking is not recognized when I view it full screen.  But when I go back to review the project and play it back in project mode it sounds fine.  What am I doing wrong?

    Hey, have you found a solution to this?

  • Deleted Frame, never closed iMovie, nor finalized, but cannot get it back....

    Help!!
    My wife was editing a project on iMove '11, and deleted the last frame, which was a picture, rolling credits and music, along with a dozen or so other frames, beginning with this, the last frame, and working back towards the beginning.  She never closed the program, not finalized anything, but when doing control Z to undo each detetion, they all came back, with the excepion of the very first one deleted, which would have been the last frame of the imovie project.
    How can we get that back?
    We have not closed iMovie, not done anything overtly to finalize the project.
    Please advise as to how to recover the rest of the movie, or if there is some way to quit the whole thing, such that it will revert back to the unedited complete version.
    Thank you!!

    I realize that, however, that would not solve, nor explain the fault found with iMovie, and would require one to basically keep an external drive attached to my macbook pro 24/7, while doing continuous and instan time machine backups.  There are many easier ways to prepare oneself in advance of these issues happening, which would be much less cumbersome than the above, however, my post was not about this, but about the functionality, or lac thereof, of iMovie, in this situation, and my attempt to see if I was missing some other avenue to recover (or undo) these changes.
    Clearly, had I made a copy of the project, and then worked with the copy, this issue would not have been anything more thn a minor inconvenience, so it's really our "fault" for being in this situation.
    What troubles me more than our own foolishness is Apple's continued stance that their products, be it hardware or software, never fail, and never have issues or bugs.  And that whatever is found on the internet, no matter how prevelant, is BS, most likely a "conspiracy" by some nefarious folks looking to sully the good name of Apple, and even more amazng is that none of the sr. technical advisors have "never heard of this", so I guess Apple must filter out anything negative on the internet, nor let them view these very forums.
    As are seemingly most photo and movie professionals I work with in California, I am so fed up with Apple that I am looking at going back to PC based systems, and Microsoft based software, to process our workflow.  Apple has clearly thrown the professionals under the bus, at least in my opinion.
    If anyone else has anything to offer, other than to use a back up copy of the project, in order to allow us to recover the deleted frame, I would appreciate it.  In the intermin, we will simply have to recreate it.
    Thank you to all who take the time to read and attempt to help us.
    And good luck in all your Apple related endeavors.....I hope your such problems are few and far between!

  • Sync now works (finally) but toolbar icons out of order every time: new info at end.

    EDIT: THis part was solved; see last post.
    Hi, I'm running FF 27.0.1 on a Win 8.1 desktop; and a Vista Laptop; plus the latest FF mobile on my Android phone (S4)
    Suddenly, nothing syncs. Now, the Win 8.1 desktop is new. I set it up. I migrated all my settings by pairing with my laptop. All was well. It worked! Suddenly, it just sort of stopped working.
    As a test, I created a bookmark for Time Magazine on my Laptop. It does not appear on the desktop nor the phone, no matter how many times that I sync. The desktop, indeed, says it hasn't sync'd since 2-15, even though I keep telling it to sync. I then created a bookmark for a YouTube video on the desktop. That doesn't appear on either of the other devices. I checked the phone--and somehow sync was turned OFF. I turned it back on. And sync'd. No change.
    --I unpaired the laptop and went through the pairing sequence again, using the desktop as the master. No change
    --I "reset" sync on each machine by choosing to "merge sync" data. No change.
    I saw another recent thread on this recommending some file deletions. I'm reluctant to start deleting things without knowing the consequence of what is lost, and also, of course, that solution may not apply to me.
    So, any help appreciated.

    Ok, I give up....if anyone has any ideas, please advise.
    At this point, FF seems to take it as its mission in life to constantly rearrange my toolbar bookmark icons.
    I don't know what else I can possibly do.
    First, I deleted my sync account entirely. Started again with my new desktop and gradually added my other devices (laptop, tablet, android phone.)
    Every time I go to the laptop, things are out of order. I don't much care because that's what used to happen in the past, too. I could never solve it.
    But I rearrange things anyway, hoping sync will be right on the desktop. It never is. I wake up the next morning, open the desktop and all the icons are rearranged in random order yet again.
    Next, I figured maybe it was the phone causing a problem. I deleted sync account from the phone!
    Next, I made sure to rearrange all toolbar icons properly on the desktop and the "reset sync" so that desktop data replaces ALL OTHER DEVICES.
    I reestablished a sync account on the phone and let the phone sync. I watched the desktop toolbar icons rearrange themselves out of order as I watched.
    I give up. What can be done about this problem? THere's not much point having a toolbar of bookmarks if a 5-7 of them are always (the same 5-7, btw...if that's significant) scattered about at random with no alphabetical order and I can never find them.
    This has been a long standing problem. Now that it is screwing up my desktop constantly, I just am ready to throw it through the window.

  • Looking to upgrade (finally), but first...(about port forwardig)

    I've got a (fairly) old Airport Extreme (Snow) base station. Most of the computers around the house are new enough to have the "n" airport cards in them, so I'm looking to upgrade to a new base station that support this.
    One of the pet peeves I've had for a while is that the base station that I currently have (snow) gives you extremely limited possibilities for forwarding public ports to specific machines. It limits you to 20. If you try to enter in 21 ports to forward to any particular machine, it gives an error and will not let you reboot the station.
    Does the current Airport Extreme Base Stations have this same limitation? If not, I'll just buy a different wireless router that does and pay the couple of bucks Apple charges to unlock the wireless card instead.
    Has anyone been able to forward more than 20 ports to their computer using the current base station?

    I've got a (fairly) old Airport Extreme (Snow) base station.
    You either have a 802.11b dual-Ethernet (aka snow) AirPort base station (ABS) OR an 802.11b/g round AirPort Extreme base station (AEBS). The snow ABS and AEBS are totally different animals.
    KB 107908, Identifying AirPort hardware
    The new AEBS allows ranges of ports to be forwarded which makes life simpler. I also believe that the limit of 20 no longer exists.

  • N96 firmware update. . . FINALLY but. ..

    The update just will not start. It get's to the point with 15mins remaining i.e. the start and then asks me to go through with the recovery process. Remove charger/battery etc.
    Has anyone else experienced this?

    Sorry peeps just found the proper place for this question and would you believe it, someones asked it already.

  • Does the computer lock me after a certain amount of failed password attmepts, even when i finally have the correct password? recently changed root account password, but then forgot today and when tried again didn't work.  if so, how long does lock last?

    Ok. So I just changed my ADMINISTRATIVE ROOT PASSWORD the other day and when I tried to log in today I forgot it.  I tried different variations of
    the password I had set, because I wasn't sure if i had maybe set it in Caps Lock or used a different number in the sequence.  I got the message several times
    about "too many attempts, try again later".  Does the computer lock me from signing in even with the correct password after a certain amount of failed
    attempts?  If so, how long does this lock last for?  When can I try again?  Or is there something I need to do to remove that lock now?  I'm pretty sure I
    had the right password finally but it still wouldn't accept it. 
    Also, I don't have any other administrative users set up on my macbook pro.  I'm the only one who uses it, so I've always just used that original User from my
    original setup.

    giselafromclongriffin wrote:
    Ok. So I just changed my ADMINISTRATIVE ROOT PASSWORD the other day and when I tried to log in today I forgot it.  I tried different variations of
    the password I had set, because I wasn't sure if i had maybe set it in Caps Lock or used a different number in the sequence.  I got the message several times
    about "too many attempts, try again later".  Does the computer lock me from signing in even with the correct password after a certain amount of failed
    attempts?  If so, how long does this lock last for?  When can I try again?  Or is there something I need to do to remove that lock now?  I'm pretty sure I
    had the right password finally but it still wouldn't accept it. 
    Also, I don't have any other administrative users set up on my macbook pro.  I'm the only one who uses it, so I've always just used that original User from my
    original setup.
    Do this:
    1. Reboot
    2. Hold apple key + s key down after you hear the chime. (command + s on newer Macs)
    3. When you get text prompt enter in these terminal commands to create a brand new admin account (hitting return after each line):
    (Type these commands very carefully)
    mount -uw /
    rm /var/db/.AppleSetupDone
    shutdown -h now
    4. After rebooting you should have a brand new admin account. When you login as the new admin you can change the passord on the old one.

  • Disconnecting Line and Final Bill

    I had been a loyal Verizon Wireless customer since 2008. I
    was on a share plan with my wife and my brother, and I would pay the bill each
    month which was about $160 for the three of us each month. I never missed one
    single payment. Well the 3 of us decided to switch to
    US Cellular. My brother’s wife had already been there, and they had these new
    phones for a penny and it was time as we’ve had these same phones for 5 years
    almost now, we were out of contract, and I had a work discount through US Cellular. So.......
    February 22, 2014 the three of us went over to US cellular
    and started a new plan with new phones. My phone number and my brother’s phone
    number switched without a problem. However, my wife, who’s number was from a
    different region could not be switched, we needed to get her a new number.
    After we switched, US Cellular told me to call Verizon the very next day (which
    was February 23rd) and disconnect/deactivate my wife’s line because
    that one would not happen automatically as they didn’t transfer her old number.
    So on February 23rd, I did
    just that. I called Verizon and they said we were disconnecting it and I’d get
    the next bill and would have to pay that and should be done.
    Well sure enough around March 1st, the next bill
    came, and on it is the full balance of $160 due March 10th. I question this and
    call Verizon again admitting I thought it would be a lesser amount. They instructed
    me to look at the billing date. The cycle was from January 15th to
    February 15th on the bill that is due by March 10th. Well
    we switched phones on February 22nd, so it made sense to me that
    this bill didn’t reflect the few days of February 16- 22nd but
    rather the previous full month from January 15th up until February 15th.
    So far so good, I just misunderstood the bill cycle date.
    So I asked if I could just pay off the remaining amount and
    be done with it all. I mean we’re in the beginning of March now and haven’t used
    the phones since February 22nd, and they’re all disconnected now,
    why not? They told me unfortunately no, I had to pay this whole bill first and
    then wait for the next bill cycle to come available which wouldn’t happen until after
    March 10th for that last billing cycle which would  reflect those few days of, Feb 16- Feb. 22nd.
    The rep ensures me it will probably only be a few bucks per line for those 6-7
    days or so.  I said that’s too bad I can’t
    just pay the whole thing now but oh well; we’ll do it your way. I guess I’ll just
    go online in a few days and pay it  and
    then come the next bill cycle (which doesn’t go out until March 10th)
    we’ll go online about that and pay the rest; just a few dollars per line.
    The rep butts in, “yeah, about that sir, once you disconnect
    the line, as you've done, you lose service to your online bill pay and accounts online so you
    will have to call us to pay. I’m thinking aww man, another inconvenience, but
    oh well, I’ll do what I have to do and call back twice to get these bills paid.
    Well, a week later a couple days before March 10th
    when the full $160 is due, I call and pay it (which took me forever on hold as
    one of their centers was down). She apologized for the delay, took my payment,
    and said when that last bill gets generated here in a few days (March 11th that shows usage from Feb 15th to March 15th, but will only reflect the few days I used the phones in that cycle which would be to the 22nd) I can just push pound
    something something and pay the last bill through the automated phone system and be
    done. I said okay
    Come now to March 22nd I get that final bill in
    the mail. I expect it to be a few bucks per line as is it would only reflect
    from February 15th to Feb 22nd when we disconnected our
    lines.  But no, the bill is $120. That's almost
    3/4 of the price of all three of our phones for an entire month.  I was thinking something must be wrong, unless they didn't prorate the bill in which case the whole month (which would be a rip off) would be $160 like usual but why all this confusion? I was hoping to just use the automated bill
    pay via phone to pay for those 6 days in the last cycle and be done with it forever but no, now I have to call the
    company AGAIN to figure out all of this. What happened next was a nightmare!
    I called and spoke with a rep asking why the outrageous
    price for just a few days of service on those lines. She puts me on hold and
    looks into it. She comes back and says my wife’s line was never disconnected. I
    said you have to be kidding me; I’ve called in to disconnect it initially and
    then even called back w/ questions on how the last bill works and everything
    after we disconnect the lines. You can even see that no data or minutes were ever used on
    any of those 3 lines since Feb. 22nd. She answers, yes sir I see
    that, let me place you back on hold. Okay I figure she’s going to check this
    out.  She comes back again, well sir I
    see you called a couple times  but I don’t see that you requested to disconnect your wife’s
    line. WHAT?! I thought. Why else would I originally call? US Cellular was right and told me specifically told me to do this the very next day and I did! AND THEN I ALSO EVEN CALLED BACK LATER AFTER THE NEXT BILL CAME CONFIRMING ALL THE LINES WERE DISCONNECTED AND HAD QUESTIONS ON HOW I LEAVE VERIZON AND WHAT MY FINAL PAYMENT WOULD BE!   And why was my
    account access to pay my bill online turned off (I did try to go online to see
    if I could pay the last bill and I was no longer to go online) if my wife's line was never disconnected? This is getting
    nuts. She placed me on hold again and returns, okay sir, this is what I’m going
    to do. I’m going to suspend her line today and then you can call back tomorrow
    to disconnect it.  Then you can pay off the last payment on the next bill cycle.
    At this point my blood is boiling, was this a joke. I should
    not have to call back again, this should have been disconnected weeks ago! and
    you can see nothing has been used on those phones. I told her this is the last bill cycle and  I’m not calling
    back and we need to get this disconnected today and that bill lowered to its
    fair amount.  She places me on hold again
    and comes back and tells me she had overridden something and got the line disconnected
    today and she was going to take $40 off my phone bill.
    At this point I’m like finally, but an hour later and now my
    phone bill is $70 for the three phones that we used for 6 days!!  I said 6 days is about 1/5th of the
    month. If our final bill is reflecting only the days of the month we used it
    should be more like 1/5 the price of our original monthly bill which was $160. which would be more like $32, not $70. I had to explain some of the simple math to her and she
    goes on to push about how the line was active and such, and I said but that
    wasn’t my fault you didn’t disconnect it and this is not a fair final bill for
    6 days of usage!!  She put me on hold yet
    again and finally came back and said I’m going to take off another $40 from the
    bill but it will need approval from my supervisor which will take 2 business
    days. If and when she approves it, you will get the final bill in the mail for
    the $120 minus an $85 credit. FINALLY!!!
    I wasn’t even looking for something free, I just wanted a
    fair final bill after I’ve taken the time to call to disconnect my wife’s line
    and understand how the final bill works and everything. No one should have to
    go through this and spend hours on the phone trying to understand how the
    process works so you don’t get duped and then end up getting duped anyway and
    having to spend more time to fix that. It was a big rip-off and extremely frustrating.
    Telling me the line’s not disconnected but taking away online bill pay, and the
    final bill itself was not only wrong, but it outright lied in certain spots.
    Almost as though they were making up dollar amounts and dates. The bill cycle on the last bill said Feb 15th to March 15th but then under then under my wife's name there was the charge of $120 and the dates next to that said March 15th - April 15th!?!?! The phones haven't been used since Feb 22nd! Not simple at all and very confusing.  Make sure you’re carefully monitoring your
    bills when leaving Verizon Wireless. Needless to say, I’m never going back to
    them so I won’t have to worry about this again. I just hope this new paper bill that shows the credit gets to my mail box before it's due date of 04/10 so I don't get a late charge. I was assured it would. I hope the CSR is telling the truth this time for once. I have faith in the last one I spoke with. I'm hoping she doesn't let me down too like everyone before her so far has.

    Leaving is quite simple via porting out. As you noted when two of the lines ported successfully. However I can see no valid reason why the wifes number could not be ported out. There are porting laws in place. But on to the rest.
    If your monthly service runs as you are saying "The cycle was from January 15th to February 15th on the bill that is due by March 10th".
    That would be incorrect. If your monthly bill is from lets say January 15 through February 14 then your payment on the account is always that last day. (February 14th.) The next new billing cycle is now February 15th through March 14 again the bill closing date is the day the invoice must be paid. All three lines since they were ported on February 22nd. still must be paid in full (2 ported & 1 not ported). There is no prorating in this case. Now in regards to the bill closing date again would next be March 15, 2014 through April 14, 2014. Since the wife's phone was not closed the only device should be just that line and no other. The other lines are paid up through March 14, 2014 so there should be no further charges.
    Some where along the line folks must remember to terminate service (port) a few days BEFORE the next bill comes due. remember we pay in advance.
    Good Luck

  • ITunes ripping certain CDs slow and creating distorted tracks

    I have just recently swicthed to iTunes after getting my new laptop and ripped my entire CD collection using it (iTunes 9.1.1 I believe).
    Anyway, out of probably 200 CDs I've found 5 that just won't rip properly and I can't, no matter what I look for figure out why?
    If anyone could help, the problem is that iTunes claims to be ripping at speeds of on average x0.4 to x0.6 (Where as all other CDs I get about x13) and estimating a rip time, but the estimation only goes down by 2 seconds every 40/50 seconds. After I finally gave in and let it rip an entire track (which took around an hour) the song was broken and distorted almost beyond recognition. I then decided to rip the track using Windows Media Player and it did it just fine.
    The Albums are;
    Muse -Showbiz
    Muse -Absolution
    Muse -HAARP
    Muse -Hullabloo Soundtrack
    Death Cab For Cutie -Plans
    If that makes any difference to the problem
    The CDs are clean and just about brand new since I only ever rip my CDs and then reserve them to the shelf, does anyone have any idea what's going wrong at all.
    Thankyou

    You might be able to see if Gracenote is responsible for the slow-down by using the script Disable Gracenote
    Hope this helps.
    M
    17' iMac fp 800 MHz 768 MB RAM   Mac OS X (10.3.9)   Several ext. HD (backup and data)

  • Problem ripping CD's that have "CD Extras" (extra media files, like videos, for

    Can anyone figure this out?
    I've been having this very annoying problem while ripping CD's onto my Zen Sleek using the Media Explorer. Occationally, it will rip all but the LAST SONG. The progress bar shows 00% completion, but instead of finishing off by transfering the final song to the player, it goes back to the initial screen (showing all but the last song as ripped; all but the last are in fact ripped and on my player).
    It MAY be that these discs have CD extras (i.e. extra media files for your PC). Has anyone been having this or any problems with CDs that that have extras?
    I have had this identical problem on two machines, both using XP.
    Please help if you can!

    First thing, I would see if WMP can rip a CD in MP3 format.
    That would tell us whether it's a general drive problem, or something specific to itunes.

Maybe you are looking for