Photoshop workflow

i do simple daily tasks with adobe photoshop cs and i was hoping automator would make this easier.
let's say i have a folder full of images. what i want automator to do for all of the images is...
1) open with photoshop
2) select-->all
3) edit-->stroke. my settings are always the same when this comes up, so all i do is press ok.
4) file-->save
any help would be appreciated.

Hi,
I'm no photoshop expert, but these photoshop actions might be able to help you:
http://www.completedigitalphotography.com/?p=339
Hope it helps!

Similar Messages

TIP: Photoshop Workflow that WORKS (for me)

Been thinking about this for a while and have figured out a workflow that integrates photoshop(PS) editing quite well with Lightroom (LR).
My goals.
*Export to PS in TIF PSD or jpg.
*Autoimport back to library for stacking with original once edited
*Avoid excessive browsing while exporting and importing.
Solution involves use of Autoimport to a 'SORT' folder.
It is mainly for use with single images that I want to pay extra attention to.
Here are the steps.
1. Create 2 new empty folders somewhere accessible. This can be done with the '+' key in the Folders panel. I have mine in my root photo directory. Call them Develops and 1ASORTBOX (the 1A means your sortbox will be at the top of your folder list in LR).
D:\Develops
D:\1A SORTBOX
2. File>Auto Import>Auto Import Settings...
- Set Watched folder to D:\Develops
- Set Destination to D:\1A SORTBOX
- Set Subfolder to Misc
- File naming :filename
3. Find a RAW file that needs photoshopping. Develop.
4. Export to destination D:\Develops
- choose format etc. FILENAME can remain the same!
- EXPORT
You will now see your file appear in the 1A sortbox/misc foler at the top of the list. Develops folder stays empty.
I created the Misc subfolder so that I can specify subfolders in the future if I want. In the meantime, they all go to misc, but I view them by selecting the top level 1Asortbox folder (all subfolder items remain visible) and sort from there.
5. select the image in the sortbox - then ctrl-E to edit in PS.
you can also automatically open the file in PS by selecting that option during export - but you end up with 2 files when you save - this works because PS tries to save the file in the develops folder which is then autoimported)
- edit the original.
- Edit in PS and save.
6. Drag the edited file to the same directory as it's parent RAW and stack it there. (I keep my edited one on the top of the stack becuase that is the one that will be exported when I do a batch export) It can be the same filename as the original. (I wish we could stack across subfolders)
This method speeds things up a bit for me.
I avoid having to select an output directory every time I want to export a PSD for editing. The export directory is always set on D:\Develops. It is so handy to have the file autoimported with all metadata intact (including heirarchical keywords). Much easier to drag the images from the sortbox folder destingation folder than to find and reimport single images manually.
I then use the Ctrl-E edit in PS function if I want to edit these files further. Choose edit original - save will overwrite your PS edits. If you want to keep the original edit, then edit as a copy or create a virtual copy first.
Hope this helps those struggling with the whole PS integration thing. Sorry its so long - it find it hard to explain these things.
Any suggestions to improve this would be fantastic.
Cheers
KEv
PS still trying to get my serial email. Grrr.

I have used this workflow for developing a few shoots and it has been working a treat. Makes lightroom a pleasure to use for me now.
The automation results in a RAW and jpg in the same folder with same name. Good for stacking and keeping a clean reference system.
I discovered a bug that occurs with the samename RAW/jpg in the same folder. Posted a thread here:
http://www.adobeforums.com/cgi-bin/webx/.3bc3493d
Basically if you rename the jpg, the RAW gets renamed too. And you can move the jpg around in grid mode properly. If you don't need to rename or move the jpgs around then the workflow is fine.
So I've made a slight adjustment to the workflow which auto renames the developed jpg.
The steps are now:
1. Export from LR to watched folder d:\develops
- in the export dialog, make sure you select 'open in photoshop' in the dropdown menu.
After this step you get a jpg (or whatever format you choose) in the sortbox with same name as the RAW, and the file open in PS.
2. Edit and ctrl-S in Photoshop
- photoshop will save the edited image to the develops folder (because this is where it opened the image from). LR then auto imports to the SORTBOX folder. Because there is already a jpg with the same name in the sortbox, LR will automantically rename the jpg with filename_2.
3. Delete the original export jpg from the sortbox and move the edited filename_2.jpg to the destination RAW folder for stacking.
The filename will be different and not be affected by the bug described. Still very quick and easy, possibly better if you don't mind the changed filename.
Kev

Please help me Automate an Aperture/Photoshop workflow

I'm trying to streamline the process of exporting a RAW file from Aperture to Photoshop for editing and then re-importing it into Aperture. I have zero experience with Automator, but someone else on the Discussions site was kind enough to share hte Automator process he uses for this.
Problem is, I can't get mine to work (or I don't know how to make it work).
I created a folder called "Photoshop-IN" where I would export the RAW files from Aperture that need editing. Then I created a folder called "Aperture-IN" where the completed Photoshop files would be exported for re-import into Aperture. Then I created this workflow:
http://homepage.mac.com/chriskresser/PhotoAlbum16.html
I think the workflows are correct, but I don't know what to do at this point. The original poster said something about making them "watched folders", but I have no idea what that means or how to do that.
To test the workflows, I tried exporting a RAW photo from Aperture to a "Photoshop-IN" folder. Then I opened Automator and clicked the play button for the designated workflow. It tells me it executed properly, but nothing happens. The CR2 file wasn't opened in Photoshop, is still in the folder, and didn't get moved to the trash.
I also tested the other workflow (getting PSD file back into Aperture), and that doesn't seem to be working either. With this workflow, I get the following message. "Aperture got an error. Some parameter wasn't understood. (-1715)".
What am I doing wrong? I realize that this might be pretty far off topic, as it is more a question of how to use Automator and possibly AppleScript. But any help would be appreciated, including direction to some resources where I could learn more about Automator (the help section is woefully inadequate!)
Thanks again,
Chris
G5 2.0 dual-core Mac OS X (10.4.3) 17" Apple LCD, iSight, Bluetooth Keyboard & Logitech Cordless Laser Mouse

Your PS-in workflow is too complex, all it needs is a Finder action to open in PS:
http://www.azurevision.co.uk/aperture/open-in-ps-action.jpg
Then File>Save as Plug-in..., choose 'Folder Actions' and then where it asks what folder to attach it to, navigate to your folder. Now, every file that is copied, moved or saved into that folder will be opened in PS.
The import into Aperture workflow is mostly OK, but you are passing a folder from the first action, not files. Try adding a 'Get Folder Contents' action just after the first action. With a bit of jiggling around and using the two actions of that workflow you should be able to save it as a folder action.
A couple more threads using a slightly different approach:
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1292903
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=1372571
Basically these export a RAW file out to a watched folder (as you are trying to do), but instead of saving it out and re-importing into Aperture, a duplicate file is made in Aperture by using 'Open in external editor' and saving the converted file into that.
Ian

Screen-caps - A Photoshop Workflow

Users often ask how to do screen-caps, to show what is happening with their program. Below are possible workflows for creating the screen-caps, and then there are instructions on how to "attach" the screen-caps to a Reply in the Adobe Forums, but only if one is accessing them via a Web browser - with e-mail access, you cannot attach a screen-cap, or other image file. There are first several utilities that will help you do this, but I will outline the steps using Adobe Photoshop and the Windows Clipboard. One can substitute their image editing program of choice, such as Photoshop Elements, PaintShop Pro, or other.
Windows has a Clipboard feature, and one can use the Print Screen key (often seen as Prt Sc, etc., and depending on their computer, might have to also use a modifier key, such as the Ctrl key).
First, set up your program, so that the necessary items are shown. This might be zooming in on the Timeline, even expanding it vertically, moving the CTI (Current Time Indicator with the red Edit Line attached), and perhaps selecting a problem Clip. Often, the Program Monitor will also need to be seen, and perhaps the Project Panel showing the proper Asset, or maybe the Effects Control Panel. Get these setup, so that they are visible, and where you want them. Now, hit the Print Screen key (see above for comments). The screen will now be an image in Clipboard.
Open your image editing program. Here, I’m using Photoshop. Create a New Image. Photoshop will first look in the Clipboard, and if there is an image there, will even set up your New Image to match that w/ the proper pixel x pixel size. Here, I name that New Image with a name that means something to me, like, “PrE_Audio_Mixer_01.” I use the underscore, in lieu of spaces, as the forum software sometimes has problems with file names containing spaces. Yes, I know that this is so Windows 98, but it works well for me.
Hit Ctrl+V to Paste the image from the Clipboard into this New Image. If my full screen-cap has captured more image area, than I need, I Crop to the important parts.
Next, if I need to do call outs, or annotate the image, I use the Text Too, and maybe will draw boxes, or circles, to make sure that the viewer knows exactly where I want them to look and what to look for. To draw arrows, or lines, I use the Shape Tool, and/or the Pen Tool, and Stroke, or Fill these Paths, as is necessary.
At this point, I have a Layered file with drawings and text, overlaying my screen image. I will do a Save_As and choose .PSD to keep my Layers handy for any additional editing, if necessary. The one problem is that the Adobe forum will NOT attach a .PSD file. Here, one has several choices. One is to do a Save_for_Web, and let PS Flatten the Layers, and merge them into one Layer. That will also remove any Alpha Channels, and/or Paths. Two popular formats are .PNG, or JPEG, and Save_for_Web allows for either of these. The choice is yours, but I normally just use JPEG with a Quality of about 9, in Photoshop to compress the image, but still leave it sharp enough for others to read. Again, PNG is a good choice as well, and will yield slightly better quality for the file size. Only possible issue is that many older browsers (what the viewers will be using to view the screen-cap) do not handle PNG. All newer browsers do, and do so very well. I have begun using PNG, instead of any compression of JPEG, and the results are better, and sharper.
With the screen-cap image Saved to our HDD, I use the little “camera” icon, in the lower-middle of the Adobe Forum editing screen’s Toolbar, to actually attach the image:
Here is an example of a screen-cap with the program setup as I needed, call outs and annotations:
Hope that this helps. Note: other image editing programs will differ, as will various screen-cap utilities.
Good luck,
Hunt

Neale,
Thanks for that. I had never used Alt+Prt Scr on my Sager, and did not know of the specifics of that modifier key. On my laptop, I need to do Ctrl+Prt Scr, rather than the more common Prt Scr (no modifier key), but that is fairly specific to my Sager on the Clevo MoBo, with its keyboard. On many computers, just plain Prt Scr is all that's needed.
I'll experiment with Alt+Prt Scr, as that might actually save me a Crop in PS, when doing a screen-cap.
Thanks,
Hunt

How do I integrate SpeedGrade into my Photoshop workflow?

This will likely sound insane, since SpeedGrade is obviously geared toward video projects, and Photoshop toward processing of still photos, but please hear me out.
I love Photosop CS6, and my absolute favorite new feature is the Color Lookup adjustment layer. So far, I've been extremely happy with the effects I've been able to pull off by combining that with other adjustment layers, channel work, etc.
However, I've gotten to the point where I realize that my next step -- much like a user who graduates up from using actions he/she downloads off of DeviantArt -- is to make my own color lookup tables. The only tool at my disposal for this is SpeedGrade. (I have a CS6 cloud membership -- off topic, but way to go, Adobe, that made it feasible for me to "graduate" from only having Photoshop CS5.1 to having the full suite at a very reasonable price!)
I've used SpeedGrade on video clips I've shot with my Canon 5D MkII to great effect. Nothing I'd post publicly yet (I'm still learning how to shoot motion), but I considered the results to be very positive. I've managed to save several test .look files, as well, both on video footage and still images (JPGs, to be specific).
I always shoot RAW, and my usual workflow is to start in Aperture (I'm a Mac user), do some basic RAW adjustments, then export a 16-bit PSD and get down to the real work in Photoshop. SpeedGrade doesn't yet seem to support PSDs natively, so in order to create a .look which is appropriate for my image, it currently looks like I need to export a JPG (down to 8-bit sRGB, ugh) from Photoshop, then open THAT in SpeedGrade, do my work, save my .look, go BACK into Photoshop, and use the .look file there.
I could live with that if -- IF -- the .look file actually gave me my expected results. However, the only time the .look behaves exactly the same in Photoshop as it does in SpeedGrade seems to be if I open the image as a JPG -- thus losing all my layers, adjustments, smart objects, etc. When I apply any of my .look files to a PSD, they come entirely too dark, every time. Many of them have simply turned an image into a large 22 megapixel black rectangle.
So my question is this: How do I make a SpeedGrade .look file behave predictably in Photoshop, in a 16-bit-per-channel PSD file? I'm OK with changing the color space if I have to (even if it's to sRGB, the bane of my existence) -- but I need to see the same thing in SG that I do in PS. Is this possible today, or am I waiting on the next SG release? Or, and I assume this to be the case -- as I'm a software engineer by trade, and know that this is almost always the case! -- is this a case of user error? And if so, what can I do to correct my user error?
Or, sacriligious as it may seem since I have all of Adobe's tools, are there other Mac-based products I can use to create color lookup files compatible with Photoshop?
In case it matters, here's my platform:
Canon 5D MkII, latest firmware, always shoot RAW
Apple Aperture 3.2.3 (sorry, Adobe, but ... y'know.)
Mac OS 10.7 (late 2011 MacBook Pro 17", 16 GB RAM)
Adobe Creative Suite 6 Cloud Subscription (photo, illustration, video tools installed; no Flash nor web tools)

Speedgrade does some funny things converting the image encoding with video, jpegs, exr files, etc.
Unfortunately, I never found documentation of exact what they do with each input format.
Sometimes they seem to convert the image data to linear (gamma 1.0) before processing, and sometimes they leave it alone.
So, it is possible, if you can figure out the rules that SpeedGrade is using, and if you can figure out all the controls in SpeedGrade.
As you may have noticed, that is not an application for a casual user :-)
Also, Photoshop only uses the color part of the .look - not the blurring or vignetting stuff that SpeedGrade can also do.
Now, I'd keep at it -- it took me about a week to learn the basics of SpeedGrade (even if I didn't figure it all out).
But in the end, I wrote my own tools to create most of the color lookup presets that ship with Photoshop CS6 (because it was easier in some cases, and because no tool existed to do what I wanted in a few cases).
Yes, before you ask, I'm trying to figure out ways to make my tools more user friendly so we could include them in Photoshop.

Best way to configure Photoshop workflow settings when source photos are shot in AdobeRGB, edited using a wide gamut display, and output to sRGB?

Being able to quickly produce finished photos is of importance with the majority of my photography work. Therefore I shoot, process, and deliver JPEG files. For this time sensitive workflow there is no benefit to my clients by my shooting RAW. I do want to be able to accommodate any possible future uses of the photos, so I shoot using the Adobe RGB color space. The output for my clients are JPEG images for use on the Web, therefore sRGB. I currently used a wide gamut display (NEC PA302W) with a 24-bit graphics card. (I plan on upgrading to a 30-bit card sometime in the future.)
I've noticed that in Internet Explorer the reds in my finished photos are overly intense on my display. My photos look fine in other web browsers on my display. This situation has me concerned as I do not know exactly why it is happening since my photos have the sRBG color profile embedded and IE supports embedded color profiles. If anything, I would think the reds would be overly intense in other applications that do not support embedded color profiles.
Please let me know if my workflow can be improved, outside of shooting RAW and using a 30-bit display:
Shoot JPEG photos in Adobe RBG color space
Edit photos in Photoshop using wide gamut display, 24-bit
Color Settings: Monitor Color (Monitor RGB - PA302W, calibrated)
Save for Web, JPEG, Embed Color Profile, Convert to sRGB
While working in Photoshop the reds appear fine. When saving for the Web and previewing 'Monitor Color' the reds are intense, when previewing 'Internet Standard RGB (No Color Management)' the reds appear fine. The final saved images look fine with the exception of when displayed in IE, which supports embedded color profiles- Color Management.

You're rapidly making a mess out of this. Stop, sit back, and stop thinking there's a "problem" to "fix". There isn't - you just need to use software that is color managed. That disqualifies IE right off. Stop using it, throw it away. It's useless with wide gamut displays. Use Firefox, which has proper color management.
OK. Save For Web in sRGB, embed profile. So far so good. But:
Don't ! set your working space to Monitor Color!. That turns off display color management which is the very last thing you want with a wide gamut monitor. You could sort of get away with that with a standard gamut monitor, because it's not all that different from sRGB anyway. So you wouldn't notice the difference (but it's there). The fact that your Adobe RGB files look right in Photoshop is purely coincidental. Any other profile will look wrong.
With a wide gamut display you absolutely and unconditionally need a fully color managed pipeline. That means 1. an embedded document profile, 2. a valid display profile (Spectraview or other calibrator), and 3. an application that reads both profiles and does the conversion from one to the other as the image is sent to the display.
See, it's not just the document profile. That's half of it. The other half is the display profile. IE doesn't use the display profile, instead substituting sRGB. And that's very wrong with that monitor. Firefox is fully color managed if there is an embedded document profile. But it can be configured to color manage even if the image is untagged (and a lot of material on the web is untagged). It does this by assigning sRGB to the image.
To configure this - and you really need that with a wide gamut monitor - type "about:config" without the quotes in the address bar and hit reload. Scroll down to gfx.color_management.mode, and change it from 2 to 1. Relaunch. All web material will now appear correctly regardless.

Aperture to Photoshop Workflow

I am a novice at Photoshop, but will start a beginners course in a couple of weeks. I would like my workflow to be : camera to Aperture (Nikon RAW) and to edit select images in Photoshop. Is thee a good source for learning more about the Aperture / Photoshop interface?
Thanks.

A key point to remember is to make all of your Aperture adjustments first, then go to Photoshop last for any remaining work. Aperture will take all of your adjustments and create a TIF or JPG for you to work on in Photoshop. If you make any Aperture adjustments to a file that has already gone to Photoshop, a brand new TIF or JPG will be created.
Here is a link to more info on working with Photoshop:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=302820

Aperture 3 and Photoshop workflow

I have recently been opening a lot of my RAW files in Photoshop (via external editor). However when I do so Aperture comes becomes quite sluggish when viewing the newly saved 256MB PSD with the context of Aperture.
I am just wondering what people use as a general workflow when combining the two applications...specifically to get around the speed issue.
Flatten the PSD that is linked to Aperture, and save a copy of the layered PSD elsewhere?
Export from Aperture and import into PSD manually?

Ernie: I should have been -- and need to be -- clearer. Thanks for sticking with this.
there is no "send as is" command. No image can be SENT to the external editor except a New Version created as either PSD or TIFF file, which will be flattened.
I realize there is no "send as is" command. The commands in question are (each from the context menu):
. "Edit with +{Name of External Editor}+, and
. "Edit with Plug-in"
The treatment of the image files for each of these commands is, afaict, the same. In an effort to indicate either of the two commands, I confusingly shortened it to "send as is".
I just tested this. I believe that there has been an important change since Ap3.0. The situation is improved, but still murky.
Here is what currently happens:
Adjust an image.
Send it to an external editor (a new Master is created, stacked with your original Master, and sent out)
Edit it
Save it
It comes back as a (sometimes layered) file. So far so good.
If you want to open that file again in the same plug-in, you can, and you can access all your layers.
But if you make adjustments to that file, and then send it using the exact same command as you sent it before, instead of (as before) creating a new Master with your adjustments baked-in, Aperture sends out +the current Master with NONE of your subsequent adjustments+.
You can edit this Master. When you save your changes, the new (now third Master) replaces the second Master, and your adjustments are applied to it.
The first time you use one of the external edit commands on an image, a new Master is created and all your adjustments are saved (by being baked into the image format file created).
The second time you use the +exact same command+, the Master is sent out for editing without your adjustments, and the edited Master ends up replacing the Master you sent out. +_That Master is, afaict, lost -- unrecoverable -- gone forever._+
That the same command does two different things is totally wrong. That it is possible to overwrite one of your Aperture Masters, is also wrong.
In practice, the commands to edit with an external editor, when applied to +an image+ which has already been edited with an external editor, is equal to "Edit Master". This might end up being slick, but currently it is very un-Aperturish.
Or -- and this is not unlikely -- there's something I'm missing.
Two additional anomalies I noticed when testing this today:
. After an image has been edited with an external editor, the Aperture command "New Version from Master" is unavailable for that image. This makes no sense. You can create a new Version from the Master by duplicating the Version and "Reset all Adjustments".
. Aperture makes no distinction which plug-in or external editor has been used. A file edited in PS can be then edited with Nik tools. The Master will the image and file format of whatever was the last external editor used. (IOW, invoking a second plug-in or external editor does not force Aperture to create and stack a new Master. It just creates a new Master and disappears the old one.)
I want to keep this as clear as our terms allow. Your statement:
No image can be SENT to the external editor except a New Version created as either PSD or TIFF file, which will be flattened.
is (sorry) doubly wrong. When you +"do a repeat open in Photoshop"+ you are in fact not creating a new Version. So in that case it CAN be sent NOT as a new Version. And the new file which is created by Aperture when it does create a new file prior to sending it out is not a Version -- It's a Master which is stacked with the original Master. (Versions are text files. Masters are image format files.)

Adobe Camera Raw to Photoshop Workflow

Hi
Can someone please tell me those edits which should/Must be done in Adobe Camera raw on a Raw image prior to importing and editing with Photoshop.
I believe its the following.
-White Balance
-Crop
-Exposure to recover blown highlights
-Tone adjustments to contrast and Brightness
-Lens Chromatic and vignetting
-Renaming and 16bit exporting
Every thing else can be carried out ion the Tif in PS
Thanks
Carlo

Most Camera Raw-oriented people say do as much as possible in the plug-in, but I tend to think that Photoshop (the main app) isn't all washed up just yet.
I do pretty much what you listed, myself.
When CS5 was first released with Camera Raw and the new 2010 process, I did quite a bit of experimentation to find out just what seemed to give the best results with regard to delivering the best detail in my images. It turns out doing upsampling in Camera Raw to the highest or next to highest pixel count gives slightly better, more natural looking detail IMO. Of course you need a good computer to handle the extra image size.
Converting to 16 bits/channel seems prudent.
Also note that if you convert to anything other than the ProPhoto RGB color space you chance getting channel clipping, where values for one of the color channels come up solid black, even though the camera may have measured above-0 luminance in those parts of the image.
-Noel

Lightroom/photoshop workflow question

I have a scenario that I can't seem to get working the way I want.
Scenario: I edit a file in photoshop with multiple layers (.tiff or .psd). I then add that file to my lightroom catalog and would like to have it automatically updated in lightroom when making changes in photoshop. I know this is possible when using the "Edit in Photoshop" option but I can't seem to get it working when I had the file in photoshop first.
If I import the file into lightroom and then make changes in photoshop the changes are not applied in lightroom. If, in lightroom, I choose "edit in photoshop" then I get a flat image generated from the lightroom file that does not have all my previously created photoshop layers.

If you have an image imported into LR then any changes to that image in, for example, PS will automatically be reflected in LR. Aside from being able to see previews in Library, all your Develop adjustments will still apply to the updated image too.
There are two concepts that need to be understood here. Firstly, LR does not support editing in layers, it was never designed to do this, but neither does it destroy them if they exist. It simply processes whatever Develop adjustments you have to the whole image as if it were flat. Secondly, it is a non-destructive editing platform, which means that all adjustments made in LR stay in LR unless you export the image. Then the adjustments are used to create a new file and, bringing in concept one, this file would not have layers.
So if you Edit In > Photoshop > Edit a copy with Lightroom Adjustments, then you’ll end up losing your layers.
If you can put up with not having your Lightroom adjustments when you need to make pixel-level edits, then simply Edit In > Photoshop > Edit Original. Once you have finished your editing, save and overwrite the file and when you go back to LR, you will automatically have your new pixel-level edits + all your existing LR develop adjustments all in a file that retains its layers
What’s more, there’s no reason why you can’t edit the file outside of LR. Because it’s already linked in the LR catalog, when you next open LR it will recognise that the image has changed and update the preview automatically. Using this method invariably means that some metadata changes. LR does not update externally modified metadata automatically but instead prompts you with an arrow in the top right of the grid and filmstrip previews. Clicking on this give you options on how to manage the metadata conflict.

Photoshop workflow question

I read somewhere that using <ALT> + Click you can use to load alpha channels could someone verify what is the correct method ? And clipping only applies to the background layer when you apply a change to the canvas I was told but I'm unclear about this.

You mean to use guides? that's probably just to get reproduceable
effects so instead of dragging around until it "looks good", you drag
out a guide and then modify until your object hits that guide or
something like that. You'll probably see this in tutorials which want
to make sure that you're on the same page as them.
I'm probably going to have to go back and find that section of the tutorial regarding guides and the warp tool
The thing with Illustrator isn't that you need to save out .PDF files,
it's that when you save your .AI files you have to select the Create
PDF Compatible File checkbox otherwise you won't be able to open them
in Photoshop, Smart Objects or no. Just try to open such a file in
Photoshop, see what it tells you
I will do that, I'm just brushing up on some things with photoshop. Many have photoshop but many cannot call themselves advanced users

Photoshop workflow setup

Hi,
I need some help with Photoshop Scripting.
What I need to do is to avoid users to create new document or open an existing one (except the one I've loaded).
What I have done so far is to insert in the "Script Event Manager" some script for the "open document" and "new document" event.
The script simply close the activeDocument in that way:
app.activeDocument.close();
(I have also put an alert that tells the user that can not open or create new document..)
What I want to do is something more complex: I want to stop photoshop to show the default open window (or the create new file window) and, instead, shows a message or something that tells the user that this two functions will not be available.
I also want to hide the "Script Event Manager" to avoid the user to edit an action that I use in the "save document" event, to save a JPG version of the document (if and only if the document is a PSD).
Can anyone help me, please?

I agree with Paul. I don't think that kind of application control is possible with scripting.
I don't know of any way to 'hide' that there is an event handler from the user. You could of course binhex the script to hide the contents of the script itself. But the user would still be able to disable the event or replace your script with something else.

Optimizing images / lightroom - photoshop workflow.

Is it better to save your files in photoshop cs5 (save for the web and other devices) or Lightroom 4.3. through the export function? Which method would result in better optimized images.
Is it possible to initially edit images in Lightroom 4.3; them export them to photoshop cs5 to use the save for the web and other devices feature and them retreive the files thus saved in Lightroom 4.3?
Many thanks

ToeTolle wrote:
Is it better to save your files in photoshop cs5 (save for the web and other devices) or Lightroom 4.3. through the export function? Which method would result in better optimized images.
I think one is as good as the other regarding quality if the quality settings are identical.
Exporting an image as JPG in Lr is more convenient because you can check the box <Add to catalog> in the Export Dialog. Thus you always have your JPGs visible in Lr.
ToeTolle wrote:
Is it possible to initially edit images in Lightroom 4.3; them export them to photoshop cs5 to use the save for the web and other devices feature and them retreive the files thus saved in Lightroom 4.3?
Yes, it is possible but it's not as convenient. When you send an image to CS5 for editing, the direct way (right-click and select <Edit in Photoshop CS5) works only with PSDs or TIFFs, depending on your settings in Preferences. You can save the image in CS5 as JPG for web but it will not be automatically imported and visible in Lr. You would have to import it manually either via the Import Dialog or via <Synchronize Folder>.
On top of that you are left with the PSD (that is automatically re-imported in Lr) that you don't need and it would have to be deleted manually.
Therefore it's far more convenient to create the JPG via export from Lr.
You can select the quality in the Export Dialog and you can sharpen for screen in three different amounts.

Making an HDR document Aperture-Photoshop workflow experiment, any takers?

Howdy, Fellow Photographers
I tried this recently but failed and I'm trying to figure it out.
So, is anyone interested in a 32-bit HDR test using Aperture and Photoshop CS2? I think this feature is revolutionary in Photoshop CS2 and hope Aperture will have something like it in a future update/upgrade.
The takers will have to have Aperture (duh) and Photoshop CS2 (duh).
1. Take an image in Aperture.
2. Make about 8 versions of the image.
3. Make 4 that are incrementally over-exposed,
4. Now make 4 that are incrementally under-exposed.
To achieve this:
Make 8 identical Versions.
Select each image (version) and open the Adjustments Inspector , select Exposure and click up into the + range and then select the next image and do the same but up a notch to a higher over-exposed level, continue this until each image is slightly over-exposed from the previous image.
Now select the next 4 and under-expose them into the - range using the same methodology as described above.
At the end you'll have 8 images (versions) that have a wide exposure value. Utilizing the same Master image with different versions having individually different exposure values. Some very dark to some very light.
Export each version as a "PSD - Original Size (16-bit)" file and "Include Metadata" checked into a folder on your Desktop or other hard drive.
(According to this Apple document
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=302943
the only way to export and maintain the EXIF metadata the version has to be PSD and not a TIFF.)
In order for this to work Photoshop has to see and recognize the EXIF data. Open Photoshop CS2 and make a new HDR document, browse Photoshop to the folder with the images from Aperture. Make the new 32-bit HDR document.
Did Photoshop make a new 32 bit HDR document?
Let me know if this worked for you.
Many thanks
love & peace,
victor

Good Morning,
Thank you, joshua, Denny, jrg_uk and Ian
Yes, me too, I was getting the same error message about not having enough dynamic range or as you say joshua it sees the same EXIF settings for all of the shots.
Nevertheless, what I want to do is bracket the exposure levels (f-stop/aperture) and leave the shutter speed alone the way it is done with a camera and tripod but instead do the bracketing within Aperture (the application) and then send the photos (Versions) to the HDR feature in Photoshop CS2.
Thank you for your help!
Back to the drawing board...
love & peace,
victor

Photoshop wont open!

Ok now i cant figure this out. i installed the recent security update and now things are going screwy. i go to open up photoshop and it wont open. the dock icon bounces then goes away leaving me wondering whats going on. I uninstalled and re installed the whole Creative Suite but photoshop still wont budge. It was working just fine before the security update and now i duno what. is this to blame or is there something else?

Ok, I got this right from the source, so ideally it will work. OK
Follow the directions, repost and let me know
MAC OS10:
First, be sure to BackUp your data, then run Mac Software Update (located in System Preferences) to bring the Operating System (OS) and Mac firmwares up to date. And run all the Adobe Updaters adobe.com.
Ruling out the User account and routine maintenance are the first steps in troubleshooting crash freeze stability problems, including setting up clean User Account, and using Disk Utility to Repair Disk and Repair Permissions, Safe Boot, and running fsck -y.
If the problem clears logged into a new "Spare User" account, a User's account preference is corrupted. If the problem does not clear in a new "Spare User" account, the problem is likely system wide, or hardware.
Rule out RAM gballard.net is also important troubleshooting. In addition to crashing, kernel panics, Type 1 Type 2 Type 3 errors, Unexpectedly Quiting, corrupted files and disk errors, typical symptoms of bad Ram in Photoshop include rows lines patches of bad pixels on screen that also print (the actual file is being corrupted). If the bad pixel areas are on the monitor, but do not print (the actual file is not corrupted), video card or video-card drivers are prime suspects. Remember, video cards also have flash firmwares to flash update.
Test Hardware Interface gballard.net for the hardware's ability to transfer data free of corruption on hard disk drive interfaces (such as SCSI, IDE, etc.). See the bottom of the linked page and DOWNLOAD Timothy A. Seufert's dctest. Dctest assumes that your CPU and memory and disk are working fine. There are OS9 and OSX versions in the download.
Bad Damaged Hard Drives:
If running Apple's Disk Utility's FirstAid Repair Disk and Repair Permissions, and the Mac's fsck -y Unix command cannot fix any all disk problems, I would recommend running third-party disk utilities BEWARE! gballard.net only as a last resort.
Bad Blocks apple.com on the hard drive can also cause a computer to be very unstable....
"Haxies," those free/shareware, application and user hacks that modify various System features, application programs and plug-ins, including bad fonts and font management gballard.net, are also prime SUSPECTS to troubleshoot and rule out, as are flaky video–card drivers. Check your video card manufacturer web site for video card firmware updaters, new drivers and compatibility issues.
Another thing to troubleshoot for is illegal Unix characters in the file names starting from the hard drive name down. These illegal characters may include: * ~ / + ! " é ñ ; : ) ? (see Mac and Windows OS File/Folder naming rules portfoliofaq.com for complete information). If you're using any illegal characters (or extra long names or spaces) in your naming hierarchy, try renaming them.
Photoshop CS and CS2 seems to be super sensitive to bad fonts, so be sure to rule out the fonts if you are having stability issues.
Troubleshooting Photoshop won't install, from the original Adobe Install CD, try copying the 'Adobe(R) Photoshop(R) Folder' (100 to 150 MB) to the desktop - this folder contains the installer and all its files. Eject the CD, and run the installer from the desktop.
This copy-installer-folder-to-hard-drive technique works on the Adobe installers that require us to verify an original full install CD (insert the full retail install CD, when the installer asks for it point it to the CD).
For troubleshooting specific numeric Mac OS error codes, try appleerrorcodes.com.
My most decisive TroubleShooting technique — Empty = Versatile gballard.net — is to Test on an OS–Suspect Level. In less than an hour, this method effectively rules out the hardware, the install and its other third–party issues.
Ann Shelbourne offers some sage font troubleshooting advice, Ann wrote:
Have you cleaned out your AdobeFnt.lst files recently?
Do a Search for "adobefnt" and delete all that you find — except for "AdobeFnt.db".
(Don't worry, they will re-create themselves as needed).
Have you ruled out conflicts between System fonts and your other fonts? (Ann continued)
Have you ran Cocktail?:
Launch Cocktail
Choose "Pilot"
Check everything on the first dialog and set to "Automatically: Restart"
Then click Options and check everything except "Cookies"
Return to main panel and click "RUN"
It will take just a few minutes and should improve performance.
Wade Zimmerman has found a quirky FIX for Photoshop CS (8.0) not opening, crashing on launching, under Panther 10.3.2, Wade wrote:
Try changing the time zone then change it back to the correct time zone that you are in but first trash your PS Preference, if that does not work try changing the City within the time zone and then change it back. Or some kind of combination. But again, each time trash PS preferences maybe even restarting the computer.
Ann Shelbourne added, if you are in the UK, don't choose GMT but choose your nearest city by name.
This sounds goofy — but it has worked for a lot of users.
+++
Also, Photoshop> Preferences> Memory & Image Cache:
Jeff Schewe, Adobe Photoshop expert, offers us the facts on Photoshop, Jeff writes:
Read this: Photoshop CS2-How much RAM? – Fact
http://photoshopnews.com/2005/04/04/photoshop-cs2-how-much-ram-fact/
When you get done and understand it, try reading: Memory allocation and usage (Photoshop CS2)
http://www.adobe.com/support/techdocs/320005.html/
And then read:
Improve performance in Photoshop CS2 on computers with more than 1 GB RAM
http://www.adobe.com/support/techdocs/331372.html/
My two cents on the subject:
Memory: Try setting 50 percent (no higher than 75 percent) for anything less than 2 GB RAM.
Over 2.5 giga bytes of RAM: The Mac OS limits all applications to maximum of 2 giga bytes of RAM. In other words, setting Photoshop's Memory setting to 100% will provide Photoshop with up to 2 GB memory, and leave the remaining 500 MB for the Operating System and other applications.
We do need to be careful to leave a cushion of unused RAM for whatever applications we run concurrently with Photoshop.
If we get a lot of OS 10's Spinning Beachball Color Wheel while using Photoshop, we probably need to install more RAM, or assign a lesser percentage of RAM to Photoshop. Seeing the BeachBall is normal for working on very large files (over 200 mega bytes) while Photoshop's ScratchDisks gballard.net catch up.
With over 3 giga bytes of installed RAM, I would start with a 100–percent Memory setting in Photoshop.
NOTE: Adobe is recommending the Ram/Memory issues for 2.5GB-plus work stations...if 100% Memory is not working optimally, as recommended above, try reducing down to a "safer" 75%, said Adobe's Chris Cox.
Cache Levels: Adobe is recommending setting this to 4 (for now because of an OS10.3.2/PS8.0 conflict). I generally set the Cache Level to 8 on newer machines, I recall CS2 is defaulting to 6.
Trashing Preferences:
If you're trying to rule out Photoshop corruption or reset Default settings, FIRST try trashing:
HardDrive> User> Library> Preferences> Adobe Photoshop 7.0 Settings folder.
HardDrive> User> Library> Preferences> com.adobe.Photoshop.plist file.
There are several other Photoshop preferences there you may trash.
Relaunch Photoshop.
If the problem has not cleared, Mac OS 10, Trash the following (and reinstall Photoshop):
HardDrive> Applications> Adobe Photoshop 7/CS folder.
HardDrive> User> Library> Preferences> Adobe Photoshop 7.0 Settings folder.
HardDrive> User> Library> Preferences> com.adobe.Photoshop.plist file.
Reinstall Photoshop.
Run all Photoshop Updaters adobe.com.
+++++
If the problem has not cleared after purging/reinstalling/updating Photoshop, the problem is likely outside of Photoshop in third–party, bad hardware or a corrupted install. At this point we generally need to Initialize/Erase/StartFromScratch gballard.net...a good opportunity to rethink Partitioning our disks for a Photoshop workflow gballard.net and implement a BackUp strategy gballard.net.
In severe cases — to prepare a Mac for a Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP) — I follow my troubleshooting MELTDOWN procedure gballard.net. In addition to repairing any Bad Blocks, this procedure will be conclusive in a couple hours, plus the time it takes to ZeroWrite Write Zeros, if the problem is hardware or installed software or damaged hard drive....
+++++
BEFORE Initializing, Reformatting, Erasing:
SEARCH the Adobe Photoshop Mac Forum adobe.com , GoogleWeb.com, and GoogleGroups.com for key words for second opinions, known bugs, posted fixes, solutions and work arounds.
+++++

Photoshop workflow

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