Question a about apple notebooks
My son is a highschool junior and i might want to get him an apple notebook...would the standard Ibook the one for 999$ be enough for him....he does about 4 hours of homework a night, has 1 AP class and 3 honors...and ofcourse he will be using the internet and other features on his offtime like instant messaging and so on.
Thanks in advance
What ARE you talking about, Kirk? The two iBooks listed at the online Apple Store are the 12-inch at $999 and the 14-inch at $1299. The difference between a 1.33 and a 1.42 GHz processor is hardly worth mentioning.
Personally, I wouldn't care to go to the 14-inch unless I absolutely needed the DVD-burning SuperDrive. I like the compactness of the 12-inch model. I would consider bumping up the hard drive on the 12-inch model to at least 60 gigs (adding $50 to the price).
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HT5312 HOW TO KNOW THE SECURITY QUESTIONS ABOUT APPLE ID?
HOW TO KNOW THE SECURITY QUESTIONS ABOUT APPLE ID?HOW TO KNOW THE SECURITY QUESTIONS ABOUT APPLE ID?
If you have a rescue email address (which is not the same thing as an alternate email address) set up on your account then steps 1 to 5 on the page that you posted from should let you reset them : go to https://appleid.apple.com/ and click 'Manage your Apple ID' on the right-hand side of that page and log into your account, then click on 'Password and Security' on the left-hand side of that page and on the right-hand side you should see an option to send security question reset info to your rescue email address.
If you don't have a rescue email address (you won't be able to add one until you can answer 2 of your questions) then you won't get the reset option - you will need to contact iTunes Support / Apple to get the questions reset.
Contacting Apple about account security : http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5699
When they've been reset (and if you don't already have a rescue email address) you can then use the steps half-way down the page that you posted from to add a rescue email address for potential future use
For future info typing all in capitals is considered shouting and makes posts difficult to read, and may mean that people don't reply -
I had bought iPhone 4 from OLX. When i had deleted iCloud account and restored my iPhone it is still asking me about Apple I.D to activate my Phone.. Why is it so..?? Suggest me a possible reason for my Question so that i may continue using my iPhone...
I dont have any contact detail of that person whom i had bought this phone..If you are trying to activate an iPad or iPhone and it is asking for a previous owners Apple ID and password, you have encountered the Activation Lock. This is a security feature that prevents thieves from setting up and using a stolen or lost iPad or iPhone. You have no alternative. You must contact the previous owner to get permission to use the device. If you cannot contact the previous owner return the device to where you bought it and get a refund. You will never be able to activate the device and no one can help you do it.
-
Two questions about apple mail
hey everyone. i'm getting to learn a little more about apple mail these days; smoothing out Gmail IMAP synching and whatnaught. i've stumbled into the mail directory on my macbook and had some questions.
1. the "mail downloads" folder (home/library/mail downloads). what is the significance of this folder? in the preferences, i have my default downloads saved to the main "downloads" folder. yet there is a random number of files in there; i don't think they constiute the totality of every message i've received that has a file to download, so what is the logic of those files? if i delete them will the downloads not be available from individual mail messages any longer?
2. i see some older IMAP mailboxes for two accounts that i don't even have access to any more. they don't, however, show up on the mail app itself. is there some way to reintegrate these mailboxes (just for archival purposes, and the ability to see their messages) into the mail program?
thanks so much!
quinAaron,
The Mail Downloads folder contents are redundant to what is kept with the messages. The most typical ways that content results in that folder are:
1) quickly clicking the Save button on a message, rather than using a click-hold to then have the option to choose a target location of the Save;
2) you open an attachment with another application. There Mail Downloads is only meant to be a temporary storage location. Attachments are kept as originally received with the message itself. Also, in the more recent version of Mail, it is redundantly kept in a folder within the INBOX.mbox folder named Attachments -- this is a behind the scenes behavior. It first appeared only for IMAP mailboxes, but more recently in Mail 4.x is also the case with a POP account. If unedited, then depending how you have your preference set up, attachments may be removed when Mail is quit, etc.;
3) Mail in 10.5.x and 10.6.x seems to require the Mail Downloads folder to be created, rather than use the Downloads folder. The latter is mostly used as the location of items you click to load from a remote server, whether in a Browser or in Mail.
With respect to your old IMAP account folders or mailboxes, where have you found them? I would assume any old IMAP accounts have been deactivated in Mail Preferences/Accounts/Advanced if in the Mail folder, but not showing in the Sidebar to Mail? It would problematic to activate an IMAP account if it can no longer contact the IMAP server. Any xxxx.imapmbox folder can be dragged from the Mail folder (after quitting Mail) to say the Desktop, renamed as xxxx.mbox folder, and then back in Mail imported to be an On My Mac mailbox for archival.
More info, please.
Ernie -
Flashing Question Mark & Sad Apple Logo
I had my Mac for quite some time and everything seem to be going well until yesterday, when I pressed the power key all it showed was a white screen and the apple logo, I had called Tech and they said i was out of warrenty, but informed me that it would best to load the Mac OS X cd when I loaded and reached the select a destination part I saw my hard drive with an explanation point. she stated this was bad and that i would need to compeltely whipe the hard drive which didnt bother me. I went to Disk Utilities and chose my hards drive clicked options and choose to zero all data, also clicked download OS 9 drives. After waiting for about an hr it was completed, and i gave it a volume and went on with the installation i choose the volume and all seemed well. yet, after the computer rebooted and all i saw was a Flashing Question Mark & Sad Apple Logo. not quite sure what this means but checked other threads and followed some of the advised given to repair this, yet for me it doesn't work, as of now i tried erasing all data again but now it seems i can't set a volume. Not 100% percent sure which OS cd i have i will double check and reply later, I have a powerbook G4. any help would be great.
Mac OS X (10.4.2)Hi Richard,
I was hoping you'd respond Thanks to the link to S.M.A.R.T reporter, but things have deteriorated since my last post and now it won't boot up at all.
I hit the power button, hear the start-up chime, then nothing but eerie silence and a gray screen.
The lack of noise usually created by a HD spinning up should be obvious that this is indeed a hard drive issue, but I want to make sure I can sound intelligent when throw myself at the guy who replaced the drive.
I tried booting from a 10.3 install cd (holding down 'c' at startup) to run Disc Utility but it won't even do that. I can hear the cd-rom spinning, reading the disc, but after a while it just gives up. In fact, I think if I listen hard enough, I can hear the faintest sound of mocking laughter....
Is this painfully, obviously, a hard drive gone bad?
It's not the end of the world, just very aggravating. -
I want to reset my privacy questions for my apple i.d. But when i request to do so it sends it to a email address that isnt on my file can anyone tell me why its not working?
1) Apple ID: All about Apple ID security questions
Torrifromny wrote:
I want to reset my privacy questions for my apple i.d. But when i request to do so it sends it to a email address that isnt on my file ?
2) See Here. Apple ID: Contacting Apple for help with Apple ID account security
Ask to speak with the Account Security Team...
3) Or Email Here > Apple Support iTunes Store Contact -
Question on the Apple Policy Payment
Hello all,
i'm iphone apps dummy. i really don't know about the terms and condition from apple.
A company I work with is considering to create a e-commerce service apps for iPhone users. My concerns are apple/itunes will charges us when customer buy our product? it's there anyway to avoid the charges 30% payment from apple?
If i use web based 3rd party payment gateway direct to our own website, will apple remove our itunes apps?
Another Issue is will apple allow top up via Iphone apps, don't want to get into the complications with Iphone Apps policy payment? Example, customer will top up as credit on our website, then customer buy our product using our credit on iphone apps? will that legal?
Please send me the link apple policy regarding on the e-commerce payment. thanks so much... i'm dying to look for the policy in apple site.Why cant I post my question on the apple website?
Uh, you did just post a question on the Apple website...
Is this a regular credit card you get a bill for?
Not a prepaid card?
Did you recently get a new card?
See this -> https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203208 -
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Apple notebook computers use lithium-polymer (MacBooks and MacBook Pros) or lithium-ion (PowerBooks and iBooks) batteries as a portable power source. The newest members of the MacBook Pro lineup have built-in (non-removable) batteries, which are physically larger and use a modified charging scheme for a longer lifespan – you can read more about them on this linked page. The following tips should help you get the most use out of your battery, and help with troubleshooting if you are experiencing problems. A short list of do’s and don’ts is followed by more detailed information, for those who want the details.
*Do’s & Don’ts*
DO use your battery frequently and lightly, ideally completing 1-2 charge cycles per week (minimum one charge cycle per month).
DO properly calibrate your battery when new and approximately every 2-3 months thereafter.
DON’T fully discharge your battery frequently (the infrequent, periodic calibration is an exception).
DON’T store your battery (or your computer) in a high temperature environment, such as the trunk of a car, especially a fully-charged battery.
DON’T run your MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed.
*Usage Pattern*
Lithium-based batteries function best when used fairly frequently but lightly. Apple states +"An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her MacBook Pro on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing."+ Note that there is no "memory effect" for lithium-based batteries, unlike nickel-based batteries (NiCd, NiMH) which perform best when fully discharged then fully charged. It is best not to completely discharge your battery, with the exception of calibrating it (see below). It is also not a good idea to run on AC power all the time. Note that when you are running on AC power, there is no danger of "overcharging" your battery – the Mac will not initiate charging of the battery if the current charge is 95% or higher, as described in this kbase article. Basically, a good rule to thumb is to run on AC power much of the time, but run on battery power for a while a few times per week. Using the battery for 2 full charge cycles per week equates to 300 cycles in 3 years, which is the optimal use. An explanation of a "full charge cycle" can be found on this page. Note that for Apple portables with a removable battery, you _should not_ run a MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed - Apple strongly recommends against this for two reasons: first, the risk of lost data and damage to the hard disk directory structure if the MagSafe plug is accidentally disconnected, and second, the computer will reduce the CPU processor speed. The latter is due to the fact that the CPU will sometimes (for brief periods) require more power than the AC adapter can provide, and the additional power is drawn from the battery; the OS throttles back the CPU to avoid this situation.
Calibration
The battery has an integrated microchip that acts as a "fuel gauge." Calibration resets this gauge, which allows the OS to better determine times to charge and discharge the battery. Calibration should be done approximately every two months. Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced. For Apple portables with removable batteries, note that Apple specifies, +"A _properly maintained_ Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles."+ For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, the battery should maintain 80% of it’s original capacity for 1000 cycles. Calibration is considered part of proper maintenance.
*Battery Life and Battery Lifespan*
Battery life is how long the battery will power the computer on a full charge. To maximize battery life, consider turning down the brightness of the display, which is one of the major power consumers in a notebook computer, and if you don’t need Bluetooth and/or Airport connectivity, consider turning those off as well. Apple offers these suggestions for maximizing notebook battery life. In practice, battery life is usually somewhat less that stated in the specifications for the various Apple notebook computer models – Apple’s testing of ‘wireless productivity’ is likely limited to browsing simple websites and basic word processing. During ‘real world’ use, battery life will normally be in the range of 1-3 hours less than the specified battery life, depending on model, usage and activity. If life is shorter than expected, see the Health and Troubleshooting sections below. Battery lifespan is how many cycles/years the battery will hold sufficient charge to power the computer for a reasonable time. For Apple portables with removable batteries, a properly maintained lithium-based battery will last approximately 400-500 charge cycles or 3-4 years, +whichever comes first+. Note that this means even an unused battery loses capacity, due to the continuous nature of the chemical reaction and the buildup of oxidation in the cells. For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, Apple’s ‘adaptive charging’ results in a significantly longer battery lifespan.
*Battery Health*
You can check the condition of your battery using System Profiler (Apple menu > About this Mac > More Info > Power section). The relevant numbers are Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count. Mac OS 10.5 Leopard also provides a readout of battery Condition (not available in 10.4 Tiger), based on those parameters. “Health” refers to the full charge capacity of a battery relative to the nominal full charge capacity of a new battery, expressed as a percentage. Programs such iStat and CoconutBattery report the health, or you can calculate it manually: full charge capacity from System Profiler / nominal new full charge capacity * 100. For Intel-based Mac portables, nominal new full charge capacities are:
MacBook (Original, removable battery) - 5093 mAh
MacBook (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4167 mAh
13” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 5478 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Original, removable battery) - 5556 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4630 mAh
15” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 6665 mAh
17" MacBook Pro (Original, , removable battery) - 6296 mAh
17” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 13015 mAh
Note that health-reporting widgets (iStat Pro, CoconutBattery) use rounded values for the denominator of ‘health’. The above values are calculated from the wattage of the batteries (45 Wh to 95 Wh, see the specifications for each model, which can be found here or here) and their voltage (10.8 V for all removable batteries, 10.95 V for the 13” and 15” built-ins, and 7.3 V for the 17” built-in; those values are printed on the batteries); these capacities are nominal, and in practice new batteries will have full charge capacities that are slightly higher or lower than those values. PowerBooks and iBooks have batteries ranging from 45 Wh to 61 Wh - specs for individual models can be found here or here); these Li-ion batteries are all 10.8 V, so nominal new full charge capacity can be calculated by multiplying battery Wh x 92.6. (For the curious or algebraically-inclined, 92.6=1000/10.8, which converts Wh to mWh and divides by voltage to yield mAh, based on I=P/V derived from Ohm’s law). When Apple specifies, +"A properly maintained Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles,"+ they are referring to 80% health. Please note that health fluctuates from cycle to cycle, depending on factors such as the pattern of charging within recent cycles, ambient temperatures during use, and time since last calibration. It is normal for health to move up and down within a range of ~10% (e.g. between 86% and 96% over time).
*Troubleshooting – short battery life and sudden shutdowns*
If battery life is unacceptably short, it may be due to a background process that is running a high percentage of CPU activity. Check Utilities > Activity Monitor > CPU tab, set the pop-up menu to Active Processes, click on the CPU column to sort, and see if anything is using a high amount of CPU capacity. Short life and sudden shutdowns may also be due to a defective or an old battery - check the battery health and cycle count. If the cycle count is in the 400-500 range (or higher) for removable batteries, the battery has exceeded its useful life, and needs to be replaced. This does not indicate a defective battery - batteries are considered a consumable part, and need to be replaced at the end of their useful life. If the cycle count is less than 300, and the health is less than 80%, the battery may be defective - this applies primarily to the newer, Intel-based Mac portables. For a certain period of time (a rather long period, in fact), Sony produced defective batteries (both Li-polymer and Li-ion) - this issue affected many laptops (Apple, Toshiba, Dell, etc.) that use batteries manufactured by Sony. Apple officially acknowledged these defects for Intel-based notebook computers, as stated on this page, and extended the battery warranty to two years from date purchase for all Core Duo machines bought between February 2006 and April 2007. Battery Update 1.2 was designed to test batteries and expose defects. Note that there were actually two battery replacement programs from Apple concerning Intel-based Macs – both programs are _now officially closed_. One was an exchange/recall for specific serial numbers, and applied only to a relatively small number of 15” MacBook Pros; the other was the more general replacement program for the defective Sony batteries. There was also an exchange/recall for battteries in the 12" iBook G4 and 12"/15" PowerBook G4, also due to manufacturing problems at Sony (these were the batteries with a safety risk).
Following the above steps should ensure a long and useful life for the battery in your Apple notebook computer. Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd version of this tip. It was submitted on July 13, 2009 by neuroanatomist.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Apple notebook batteries – maintenance and troubleshooting
Apple notebook computers use lithium-polymer (MacBooks and MacBook Pros) or lithium-ion (PowerBooks and iBooks) batteries as a portable power source. The newest members of the MacBook Pro lineup have built-in (non-removable) batteries, which are physically larger and use a modified charging scheme for a longer lifespan – you can read more about them on this linked page. The following tips should help you get the most use out of your battery, and help with troubleshooting if you are experiencing problems. A short list of do’s and don’ts is followed by more detailed information, for those who want the details.
*Do’s & Don’ts*
DO use your battery frequently and lightly, ideally completing 1-2 charge cycles per week (minimum one charge cycle per month).
DO properly calibrate your battery when new and approximately every 2-3 months thereafter.
DON’T fully discharge your battery frequently (the infrequent, periodic calibration is an exception).
DON’T store your battery (or your computer) in a high temperature environment, such as the trunk of a car, especially a fully-charged battery.
DON’T run your MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed.
*Usage Pattern*
Lithium-based batteries function best when used fairly frequently but lightly. Apple states +"An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her MacBook Pro on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing."+ Note that there is no "memory effect" for lithium-based batteries, unlike nickel-based batteries (NiCd, NiMH) which perform best when fully discharged then fully charged. It is best not to completely discharge your battery, with the exception of calibrating it (see below). It is also not a good idea to run on AC power all the time. Note that when you are running on AC power, there is no danger of "overcharging" your battery – the Mac will not initiate charging of the battery if the current charge is 95% or higher, as described in this kbase article. Basically, a good rule to thumb is to run on AC power much of the time, but run on battery power for a while a few times per week. Using the battery for 2 full charge cycles per week equates to 300 cycles in 3 years, which is the optimal use. An explanation of a "full charge cycle" can be found on this page. Note that for Apple portables with a removable battery, you _should not_ run a MacBook or MacBook Pro on AC power with the battery removed - Apple strongly recommends against this for two reasons: first, the risk of lost data and damage to the hard disk directory structure if the MagSafe plug is accidentally disconnected, and second, the computer will reduce the CPU processor speed. The latter is due to the fact that the CPU will sometimes (for brief periods) require more power than the AC adapter can provide, and the additional power is drawn from the battery; the OS throttles back the CPU to avoid this situation.
Calibration
The battery has an integrated microchip that acts as a "fuel gauge." Calibration resets this gauge, which allows the OS to better determine times to charge and discharge the battery. Calibration should be done approximately every two months. Failure to do so for a long period of time can result in the microchip "fuel gauge" in the battery losing the ability to accurately determine the remaining charge, and it will report that there is more charge in the battery than is actually present. As a result, the computer will not initiate Safe Sleep at the proper time, and instead undergo a hard shut down, one of the main causes of hard drive directory damage. Once the battery is in the state resulting from a failure to calibrate, it is not possible to calibrate the battery, and it will need to be replaced. For Apple portables with removable batteries, note that Apple specifies, +"A _properly maintained_ Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles."+ For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, the battery should maintain 80% of it’s original capacity for 1000 cycles. Calibration is considered part of proper maintenance.
*Battery Life and Battery Lifespan*
Battery life is how long the battery will power the computer on a full charge. To maximize battery life, consider turning down the brightness of the display, which is one of the major power consumers in a notebook computer, and if you don’t need Bluetooth and/or Airport connectivity, consider turning those off as well. Apple offers these suggestions for maximizing notebook battery life. In practice, battery life is usually somewhat less that stated in the specifications for the various Apple notebook computer models – Apple’s testing of ‘wireless productivity’ is likely limited to browsing simple websites and basic word processing. During ‘real world’ use, battery life will normally be in the range of 1-3 hours less than the specified battery life, depending on model, usage and activity. If life is shorter than expected, see the Health and Troubleshooting sections below. Battery lifespan is how many cycles/years the battery will hold sufficient charge to power the computer for a reasonable time. For Apple portables with removable batteries, a properly maintained lithium-based battery will last approximately 400-500 charge cycles or 3-4 years, +whichever comes first+. Note that this means even an unused battery loses capacity, due to the continuous nature of the chemical reaction and the buildup of oxidation in the cells. For MacBook Pros with built-in batteries, Apple’s ‘adaptive charging’ results in a significantly longer battery lifespan.
*Battery Health*
You can check the condition of your battery using System Profiler (Apple menu > About this Mac > More Info > Power section). The relevant numbers are Full Charge Capacity and Cycle Count. Mac OS 10.5 Leopard also provides a readout of battery Condition (not available in 10.4 Tiger), based on those parameters. “Health” refers to the full charge capacity of a battery relative to the nominal full charge capacity of a new battery, expressed as a percentage. Programs such iStat and CoconutBattery report the health, or you can calculate it manually: full charge capacity from System Profiler / nominal new full charge capacity * 100. For Intel-based Mac portables, nominal new full charge capacities are:
MacBook (Original, removable battery) - 5093 mAh
MacBook (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4167 mAh
13” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 5478 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Original, removable battery) - 5556 mAh
15" MacBook Pro (Late 2008, removable battery) - 4630 mAh
15” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 6665 mAh
17" MacBook Pro (Original, , removable battery) - 6296 mAh
17” Macbook Pro (Mid-2009, built-in battery) - 13015 mAh
Note that health-reporting widgets (iStat Pro, CoconutBattery) use rounded values for the denominator of ‘health’. The above values are calculated from the wattage of the batteries (45 Wh to 95 Wh, see the specifications for each model, which can be found here or here) and their voltage (10.8 V for all removable batteries, 10.95 V for the 13” and 15” built-ins, and 7.3 V for the 17” built-in; those values are printed on the batteries); these capacities are nominal, and in practice new batteries will have full charge capacities that are slightly higher or lower than those values. PowerBooks and iBooks have batteries ranging from 45 Wh to 61 Wh - specs for individual models can be found here or here); these Li-ion batteries are all 10.8 V, so nominal new full charge capacity can be calculated by multiplying battery Wh x 92.6. (For the curious or algebraically-inclined, 92.6=1000/10.8, which converts Wh to mWh and divides by voltage to yield mAh, based on I=P/V derived from Ohm’s law). When Apple specifies, +"A properly maintained Apple notebook battery is designed to retain up to 80% of its original capacity at 300 full charge and discharge cycles,"+ they are referring to 80% health. Please note that health fluctuates from cycle to cycle, depending on factors such as the pattern of charging within recent cycles, ambient temperatures during use, and time since last calibration. It is normal for health to move up and down within a range of ~10% (e.g. between 86% and 96% over time).
*Troubleshooting – short battery life and sudden shutdowns*
If battery life is unacceptably short, it may be due to a background process that is running a high percentage of CPU activity. Check Utilities > Activity Monitor > CPU tab, set the pop-up menu to Active Processes, click on the CPU column to sort, and see if anything is using a high amount of CPU capacity. Short life and sudden shutdowns may also be due to a defective or an old battery - check the battery health and cycle count. If the cycle count is in the 400-500 range (or higher) for removable batteries, the battery has exceeded its useful life, and needs to be replaced. This does not indicate a defective battery - batteries are considered a consumable part, and need to be replaced at the end of their useful life. If the cycle count is less than 300, and the health is less than 80%, the battery may be defective - this applies primarily to the newer, Intel-based Mac portables. For a certain period of time (a rather long period, in fact), Sony produced defective batteries (both Li-polymer and Li-ion) - this issue affected many laptops (Apple, Toshiba, Dell, etc.) that use batteries manufactured by Sony. Apple officially acknowledged these defects for Intel-based notebook computers, as stated on this page, and extended the battery warranty to two years from date purchase for all Core Duo machines bought between February 2006 and April 2007. Battery Update 1.2 was designed to test batteries and expose defects. Note that there were actually two battery replacement programs from Apple concerning Intel-based Macs – both programs are _now officially closed_. One was an exchange/recall for specific serial numbers, and applied only to a relatively small number of 15” MacBook Pros; the other was the more general replacement program for the defective Sony batteries. There was also an exchange/recall for battteries in the 12" iBook G4 and 12"/15" PowerBook G4, also due to manufacturing problems at Sony (these were the batteries with a safety risk).
Following the above steps should ensure a long and useful life for the battery in your Apple notebook computer. Hope this helps...
This is the 2nd version of this tip. It was submitted on July 13, 2009 by neuroanatomist.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information. -
I never put security questions on mt apple I'd and now it won't let me buy anything with my Money I need help A.S.A.P
Reset Security Questions
Frequently asked questions about Apple ID
Manage My Apple ID
Or you can email iTunes Support at iTunes Store Support.
If all else fails:
1. Go to: Apple Express Lane;
2. Under Product Categories choose iTunes;
3. Then choose iTunes Store;
4. Then choose Account Management;
5. Now choose iTunes Store Security and answer the bullet questions, then click
Continue;
6. Sign in with your Apple ID and press Continue;
7. Under Contact Options fill out the information and advise iTunes that you would
like your security/challenge questions reset;
8. Click Send/Continue.
You should get a response within 24 hours by email.
In the event you are unsuccessful then contact AppleCare - Contacting Apple for support and service.
Another user had success doing the following:
I got some help from an apple assistant on the phone. It is kind of round about way to get in.
Here is what he said to do and it is working for me...
a. on the device that is asking you for the security questions go to "settings", > "store" >
tap the Apple ID and choose view"Apple ID" and sign in.
b. Tap on payment information and add a credit/debit card of your preference then select
"done", in the upper right corner
c. sign out and back into iTunes on the device by going to "settings"> "store" > tap the
Apple ID and choose "sign-out" > Tap "sign -in" > "use existing Apple ID" and you
should be asked to verify your security code for the credit /debit card and NOT the
security questions.
d. At this time you can remove the card by going back in to edit the payment info and
selecting "none" as the card type then saving the changes by selecting "done". You
should now be able to use your iTunes store credit without answering the security
questions.
It's working for me ...I just have to put in my 3 digit security pin from the credit card I am using.
Good Luck friends! -
I went to purchase an app from the app store and it said because I nev purchase them I just get the free one that I have to answer some security questions that I would of answered when I first signed up - well silly me cant even remember the answered. So I was just wonder if anyone knows how or where I can go to change my security question answers so I can start purchasing apps!
Thankyou (:1. See my User Tip for some help: Some Solutions for Resetting Forgotten Security Questions: Apple Support Communities.
2. Here are two different but direct methods:
a. Send Apple an email request at: Apple - Support - iTunes Store - Contact Us.
b. Call Apple Support in your country: Customer Service: Contacting Apple for support
and service.
3. For other queries about Apple ID see Frequently asked questions about Apple ID.
4. Rescue email address and how to reset Apple ID security questions
5. For online assistance use Apple - Support - Express Lane -
Help please, anyone?
Hello Livi4321,
Thanks for the question. If you do not remember the answers to your security questions please refer to the following article:
Apple ID: All about Apple ID security questions
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5665
What should I do if I don't remember the answers to my Apple ID security questions?
Try answering them at least once to see if you can get them right, even if you are not sure you remember the answers to your security questions.
If you are confident you can't remember them, try one of the following:
If you have three security questions and a rescue email address
- sign in to My Apple ID and select the Password and Security tab to send an email to your rescue email address to reset your security questions and answers.
If you have one security question and you know your Apple ID password
- sign in to My Apple ID and select the Password and Security tab to reset your security question.
If you have one security question, but don't remember your Apple ID password
- contact Apple Support for assistance. Learn more about creating a temporary support PIN to help Apple confirm your identity when you contact Apple Support.
If you continue to have issues, please contact our Account Security Team as outlined in this article:
Apple ID: Contacting Apple for help with Apple ID account security
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5699
Thanks,
Matt M. -
I realize that this question may not belong in this discussion forum and if someone knows about any other forum that is more suitable for this types of questions I would be very grateful if you could give me the name/link to the forum.
I am currently doing research for an article regarding brands and customer loyalty and after reading through a great number of articles, news releases, blogs, etc. I realize that the customers of Apple are not like other customers. They are probably some of the most loyal people I've ever read about. No matter what mistakes Apple may make, the customers are always there to support them and every time someone says something bad about the company, there are always one or more Apple-enthusiasts that steps forward to defend the brand. As a person who do not own any Apple products, I'm having a hard time understanding this extreme loyalty and I therefore need to ask: what is it about Apple that is so great? Is it just the great products that make the customers so loyal or is it something more than that?
I'd be extremely grateful for any replies I may get.Ckristof wrote:
...what is it about Apple that is so great? Is it just the great products that make the customers so loyal or is it something more than that?
Ckristof ~ In this _1995 interview_, Steve Jobs explains the type of creative people behind the original Mac. And at the end of the quote below, Jobs reveals something special those people put into Apple's products — and presumably still do. ...Could it be that which is the +"something more"+ ? ... Could it be that which indirectly makes Apple's customers so loyal without them really understanding why?
Interviewer:
And the artistry is in the elegance of the solution, like chess playing or mathematics?
Steve Jobs:
No. I think the artistry is in having an insight into what one sees around them. Generally putting things together in a way no one else has before and finding a way to express that to other people who don't have that insight so they can get some of the advantage of that insight that makes them feel a certain way or allows them to do a certain thing. I think that a lot of the folks on the Macintosh team were capable of doing that and did exactly that.
If you study these people a little bit more what you'll find is that in this particular time, in the 70's and the 80's the best people in computers would have normally been poets and writers and musicians. Almost all of them were musicians. Alot of them were poets on the side. They went into computers because it was so compelling. It was fresh and new. It was a new medium of expression for their creative talents. The feelings and the passion that people put into it were completely indistinguishable from a poet or a painter. Many of the people were introspective, inward people who expressed how they felt about other people or the rest of humanity in general into their work, work that other people would use. People put a lot of love into these products, and a lot of expression of their appreciation came to these things. It's hard to explain. -
I am being prompted for the questions for my apple ID. I have put what I think are the answers and it is still not letting me purchase games from my account. I try to send the answers to my e-mail and I am not getting them. I had account issues about a year ago where my id was spelled wrong. Could this be associated with that?
<Email Edited by Host>Hi gymdad1959,
This article has instructions for resetting security questions:
Rescue email address and how to reset Apple ID security questions
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5312
Cheers!
- Ari -
I never set up any security questions for my apple ID and I was asked on the app store to sign in and answer my security questions, I never made any in the first place and it came up with questions that I didn't know. I've already been in support and tried to reset them, but I have to answer the security questions in order to change them. Is there any way to find out what they are?
From a Kappy post
The Best Alternatives for Security Questions and Rescue Mail
1. Send Apple an email request at: Apple - Support - iTunes Store - Contact Us.
2. Call Apple Support in your country: Customer Service: Contact Apple support.
3. Rescue email address and how to reset Apple ID security questions.
An alternative to using the security questions is to use 2-step verification:
Two-step verification FAQ Get answers to frequently asked questions about two-step verification for Apple ID. -
Apple Notebooks: Operating Temperature
I see Apple has updated article# 30612 (Apple Notebooks: Operating Temperature) to include the MacBook Pro. The most interesting part of the document is the first paragraph:
"The bottom surface and some areas between the keyboard and LCD hinge of your Apple notebook computer can become hot after extended periods of use. This is normal operating behavior. With processor and bus speeds in portable computers often matching, if not exceeding, those of desktop systems, increased operating temperatures in portable computing products are common throughout the industry."
So it seems Apple is knowledging that this extreme heat is normal above the F keys and on the bottom surface (mainly at the back).
MacBook Pro 2.16GHz/2GB RAM/100GB 7200rpm hard drive Mac OS X (10.4.6)Hi Brad,
"extreme heat"
All of the Apple computers are like this. Same with all laptops that I have ever seen. The back of the computer near the hinge is where the fan is, so there should be some heat coming of there. I am glad some heat comes out of the keyboard (barely); its better then the logic board.
Jon
Quick question; where did you see extreme heat?
Mac Mini 1.42Ghz, iPod (All), Airport (Graphite & Express), G4 1.33Ghz iBook, G4 iMac 1Ghz, G3 500Mhz, iBook iMac 233Mhz, eMate, Power Mac 5400 LC, PowerBook 540c, Macintosh 128K, Apple //e, Apple //, and some more... Mac OS X (10.4.5) Moto Razr, iLife '06, SmartDisk 160Gb, Apple BT Mouse, Sight..
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