Remove water spot on lens in Post Production

I've looked around but haven't seen this question yet.
Can I remove a spot that was on my your lens while I was shooting and remove it in post production?
I have CS4 and FCS 2 to work with.

Yes, very nice. Thank you.
But, do I have to go get footage of a grey card? Reason I ask, is because I only rent cameras and don't own a nice one to begin with. Plus, this is only for the board of directors over at Virgin America. Is there a way to add a gray matte instead? Nob questions, sorry.
It was a raining day on the 14th in the early morning. My camera had a bag but water still got in.
Ughh, its also in too many shots to fix it.
I'll post it here when I'm done.
Oh Les, I was gonna add you on Facebook but couldn't find your profile. Do you have Facebook or LinkedIn by chance?
Thanks for you help.
Jesse Dean (facebook)

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Help removing sun spots

Please help! I am very new to using Photoshop Elements. I heard from a friend that I might be able to use it to remove sun spots from a few pictures that I have. There are a total of 4 pictures that I am trying to correct. Any help/suggestions you have would be great.
Thanks!

I cropped out the green spot and just concentrated on the brown spot. Not perfect but here is what I have...
http://www.pixentral.com/show.php?picture=1YXwkdKBQrYbZD8PSQDJIxJSBkvUi5
I probably went way overboard on the number of steps I took...brown spot itself can be taken care of in the first four steps. I went a bit overboard and ended up with 23 steps. (More than one of these probably wouldn't be necessary if I hadn't been experimenting the entire way.)
Anyway...Here's all 23 steps I took...feel free to stop at step 4 if happy or deviate and do your own way after step 4...and of course you don't need to do step 1 which I have listed as cropping the image.
Remove Lens Flair from kids…
1. I cropped out the first one but could have copied over some material to cover the green spot.
2. Hue/Saturation Blues -95 saturation...Layer: Normal;100%...masked so only shirt effected.
3. Levels clipped to the Hue/Saturation layer….levels setting: RGB channel 59/.078/240.…Layer: Normal; 58%.
4. Gradient map clipped to Hue/Saturation layer…Layer: color; 78% (Gradient to taste...I can post a screen shot of the one I used if you want.)
5. Add blank layer…Layer: Normal 100%…clone with stamp in color blend mode.
6. Add blank layer…make composite (press ctrl + shift + alt + E)…Layer: Overlay blend mode 70%…masked.
7. Brought up copy of original…shifted original copy horizontally (shift + move tool so new leaves are the correct size)…Layer: Normal 70%
8.Brightness Contrast…Brightness -103/Contrast+29...Layer: Multiply 100%
9. Brought up another copy of the original to top of stack…Layer: screen blend mode 100%.
10. Add blank layer…make composite (press ctrl + shift + alt + E)...Layer: Normal; 100%
11. Copied the composite layer and smart sharpened it...Layer: Normal; 100%
12. Created a blank layer…added some white paint and used motion blur to streak it…added a touch of Gaussian blur to soften a bit….Layer: Overlay blend mode;100%…masked to effect only kids.
13. Bring up copy of composite layer from step 10...before smart sharpened…Layer: Normal; 100%…masked so kids partially effected.
14. Added a warming photo filter…(Warming 85) Density 44%; preserve luminosity checked…Layer: color; 100%…masked out the clothing as it made the jeans too purple.
15. Felt his shirt was too saturated so added a Hue/saturation layer to top of stack…masked it so only shirt would be effected….blues -25 saturation…Normal;100%
16. Lighting effects filter with my own personal preset….Layer: Color; 100%...masked out skin areas as I wanted to hit the clothing. (It's a pale yellow lighting effect. I can post a screen shot of the settings if you want.)
17. Add blank layer…make composite (press ctrl + shift + alt + E)...Layer: Normal; 100%
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19. Whitened teeth...optional
20. Make a composite of everything...Layer: Normal 100%
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22. Created new blank layer…Clone stamp normal…masked fix couple light rings…
23 Created new blank layers…clone stamp normal…fixed couple more items…also clone stamp used

Can´t remove UV filter from lens

I am using a UV filter made by Zeikos on my Canon lens, but I cannot remove this (it has become stuck on the lens). I am worried about forcing it due to the risk to the lens. Can you recommend a product that can be used to help loosen the UV filter? I currently live in the Peruvian Amazon so mail order of a product is not possible, rather I need to know what can be used so I don´t put anything on the lens that could damage it. Many thanks!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Very hot water and a lens? Very bad idea.
Get a set of filter wrenches and don't screw the filter on so tight next time.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

How can I remove flash spots from silver colored objects?

Hello guys,
I have attached some pictures, you can notice the flash spots due to reflection on silver color. What's the best way to remove these spots and improve the photo quality. (I understand the best way is to shoot the photos in a specific environment to disallow this effect, but I am asking if there is away to edit it using Lightroom and remove the flash effect).
http://s21.postimg.org/fln8wpjdj/image.jpg
http://s8.postimg.org/5m5hshaid/image.jpg
http://s17.postimg.org/4fe0pnhj3/image.jpg
http://s18.postimg.org/golicld9l/image.jpg
http://s11.postimg.org/6hg3tx8qr/image.jpg

Please post images on this site directly (using the camera icon).
Also: This is not the Lightroom Forum.

"water spots" in large areas of a single color

When a large area of sky is in a photograph, I see what appear to be waterspots in the area, but the glass is clean. Is this a sensor problem? It happened with my previous Canon DSLR as well. I use the 100-400L lens on a 60D. Thanks.

zedvictor1 wrote:
I should add, I think, that the spots aren't specs but are quite large and transparent--more like round smudges. I clean them up later with a clone tool, but this is less than ideal.
In principle, it could be lens flare spots, but those are pretty distinctive and not very repeatable, since they depend on the angle of the incident light. They could be actual water spots if the sensor was ever exposed to rain. A few years ago there was a particular Nikon DSLR that had a problem with oil spots; the mirror mechanism was over-lubricated and threw oil droplets onto the sensor. But I've never heard of that happening on a Canon. If a professional sensor cleaning doesn't cure the problem, it would probably be wise to send it to a Canon shop. They're not cheap (unless you're a CPS member), but they do a good job.
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

Critique my W530 Build for Post-Production Work

Hi everyone!
Please critique the following W530 build for post-production use. Primary applications in use are After Effects, Photoshop, Maya, Boujou, PFTrack, Mocha Pro. Was highly considering the Macbook Pro 15" Retina and the HP Ultrabook. But seems the Thinkpad has the best performance/price ratio in a decently portable form factor. Switching from the Mac side so guidance would be much appreciated!
Purchasing from Lenovo online store:
CPU - Intel Core i7-3820QM Processor (8M Cache, up to 3.70 GHz)
GPU - NVIDIA Quadro K2000M Graphics with 2GB DDR3 Memory
RAM - 8 GB DDR3 - 1600MHz (2 DIMM)
HDD - 500GB Hard Disk Drive, 7200rpm
Optical Drive - DVD Recordable
Total - $1,663.78
Buying separately:
512GB Samsung 830 Series SSD (Will replace with 500GB 7200rpm Drive)
Add 180GB SSD or 1TB 7200 RPM HD in Optical drive
Add 16 to 32 GB of RAM
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Can I put another SSD or a full TB with atleast 7200RPM in place of the DVD Recordable optical drive?
I want to upgrade the RAM to 16 or maybe even 32GB for excellent AE/Premiere performance. What clock freq RAM do you suggest/does it matter? If I want 32GB in total, how much should I get from Lenovo and which RAM do you suggest I add.
Any other suggestions on improving this build? Other brands you would recommend looking into?

My build and final specs I've gone with for a similair configuration (heavy VM use, some video editing, some 3D CAD/CAM work in SketchUp and older games like TF2).
As Shipped:
CPU - Intel Core i7-3720QM ($200 for less than 5% performance improvement from the 3820 isn't worth it)
GPU - K2000M (Twice the CUDA, worth it, newer video editors take full advantage)
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Bay - Blank Travel Bezel
Upgrades:
RAM - 32GB DDR3 1600Mhz PC12800 from G.Skill
HDD - 240GB Mushkin Atlas mSATA SSD main boot drive, ~200MB/second random read/write worst-case
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They've closed this loophole when I just checked, but you WERE previously able to order a W530 w/ a minimal 5400RPM low-power 320GB hard drive and NO CD/DVD drive (which but $180 off the price) by adding, then removing, the hardware RAID option.
The dual 1TB drives can push 200MB/second easily for sequential throughput when rendering or playing through video, and the SSD can keep up for random read/write as a scratch drive. I will recommend ONLY allocating 200GB of the SSD so there's extra redundancy, that's what I did at least.
But honestly, the 3820 isn't worth the $200 premium for 3.7Ghz versus 3.6Ghz CPU speed, spend that on the graphics card and/or buying the RAM and/or an SSD later.

How do I remove black spots on silver side of iPhone 5 and what is it??

How do I remove black spots on silver side of iPhone 5 and what is it?? Is it the silver rubbed off which I don't understand as I have been using a silicon case. Or is it due to trapped dirt within the silicon case somehow embedded now? I have tried to rub it off with a cloth and water but it doesn't work.

Hi no if you zoom in a bit on the photo you can see little black specks. I had to compress the photo as only a 2mb limit on here for files so it's quite hard to see. They are all along the side of it on the silver and at the top of the phone as well.

What are the benefits (if any) to transcoding to an intermediate editing format for post-production?

I have been searching for a definitive answer to this for days and cannot get anything useful.
My video camera records to AVCHD format which is 24mbps H.264 plus audio (I record audio separately so audio is not a concern). I use the Adobe CC suite on Windows. I do a lot of green-screen work.
I have read about many intermediate codecs designed for editing video. These include Avid's DNxHD, Apple's ProRes, GoPro's Cineform, MXF OP1a, among others. From what I understand, these formats provide excellent features to help video editors do their work.
I have been able to edit AVCHD files directly using Premiere Pro and After Affects.
My question is, what benefits, if any, would I get if I transcoded my content from AVCHD to one of the intermediate formats before I begin editing? Would it speed up Adobe's software? Would it provide better quality in the end? Would it make various effects function better?
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Thank you.

Like almost everything, there's tradeoffs. Transcoding to a really high-end single-file codec like Cineon or Cineform would mean that say the file size could be somewhat larger on disc ... more data to read ... however, LESS work by the other subsystems to get those io oo ii oo oo io io io oi bits changed into "video" on the monitor. There are several articles and tutorials out there on this that give really useful information. And there are a LOT of people that put something out because they personally think this or that codec is THE proper way a professional should work, and any other codec is nearly obscene in use. Right, whatever. They're all tools.
As shooternz showed ... properly shot AVCHD can be green-screened beautifully, and as there are a LOT of the "pro" cameras in use shooting that wrapper, there are a lot of people that simply process in that. There are others that automatically transcode everything to ProRes 4444 before editing because they feel that gives them the best, safest "space" for their pixels to live. Pick any major codec/wrapper, it will have adherents.
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And listening to shooternz on this isn't a bad thing at all ... his techniques are tight & fast. I've asked him for a number of things and have adopted every one of them.
Neil

Bridge not saving toning/applying post production - like 20K images to tone!!

Hi - Am desperate - have 10 weddings to do post production on and my bridge is acting up.
I am having a bridge isssue - when I apply the toning/cropping/color correction to images and press done it is not saving the work. In addition when I do the work in bridge and then choose save as it just save them as untoned JPGSs. It does not apply the raw conversion or xmp data.
In addition it is only happening in half the images in the folders not all of them. And it's not camera specific it's random.
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[email protected]

I am having a bridge isssue - when I apply the toning/cropping/color correction to images and press done it is not saving the work. In addition when I do the work in bridge and then choose save as it just save them as untoned JPGSs. It does not apply the raw conversion or xmp data.
Bridge is only a file browser without editing capacities (except the export panel but that has been discontinued in Bridge CC) and reflects the content of your folders. If you make changes in ACR using either selecting via PS or via Bridge any changes should be visible wether you have hit done or save in ACR.
If you have other results, especially random difference it looks like a cache problem to me. So point the Content panel to a problem folder and use menu tools / cache / purge cache for folder and check if this solves your problem.

How can I remove flash spots from silver color objects?

Hello guys,
I have attached some pictures, you can notice the flash spots due to reflection on silver color. What's the best way to remove these spots and improve the photo quality. (I understand the best way is to shoot the photos in a specific environment to disallow this effect, but I am asking if there is away to edit it using Lightroom and remove the flash effect).
http://s21.postimg.org/fln8wpjdj/image.jpg
http://s8.postimg.org/5m5hshaid/image.jpg
http://s17.postimg.org/4fe0pnhj3/image.jpg
http://s18.postimg.org/golicld9l/image.jpg
http://s11.postimg.org/6hg3tx8qr/image.jpg

Sorry, there is no tool in Lightroom that will edit out the hot spots. Even in Photoshop you will have a hard time. Really, you should look into a more studio like setup for your shots, with more controlled lighting.

How to White balance in post production

I am working on a project that was used by two cameras, but one of the cameras white balance is different than the other. Is it possible to match the white balance in post production in final cut express so that the video quality looks very similar (without one seeming bright orange than the other)? Thank You for any help with this topic.

FCE has a Color Corrector in Browser>Effects>Color Correction>Color Corrector.
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Hi,
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I'd appreciate any feedback.
Thanks
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How much time do you have to turn this project around? In the Peachpit Apple Training Series, there is a training book titled "Advanced Color Correction and Effects in Final Cut Pro 5" that is an excellent resource for this.
It teaches you how to color correct using the four FCP scopes to get it right.
The Auto White function in Color Corrector 3-Way will put you in the ballpark IF there is a white object in the shot. If not, then you're on your own.

Iphone 5 got wet last week. Been in rice until today. It turned on and worked fine, I could see a water spot in the middle but still worked fine, 3 hours in it shut off to black screen with apple logo. Any ideas what to do?

Iphone 5 got wet last week. Been in rice until today. It turned on and worked fine, I could see a water spot in the middle but still worked fine, 3 hours in it shut down to the black screen with apple logo. Screen stays up for 10 seconds ago and then goes black and then black screen with apple logo comes back. Any ideas what to do?

At this point it's likely that the iPhone has suffered damage and you'll have to take or send it to Apple for replacement. If you have AppleCare+ coverage on the iPhone, the cost will be US $49. Otherwise the cost will be US $229.
Regards.

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Gurus,
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Regards
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Hi Eliz,
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Hi, all,
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Remove water spot on lens in Post Production

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