Replacement Sawtooth G4 power supply - Specs?

Hello!
Well, a couple of months back, I discovered that the power supply fan in my 400mhz AGP (Sawtooth) G4 had stopped running. My interim fix? A powerful case fan, attached via Velcro to the outside of the case (sucking air out of the G4) with the power cable running through an empty PCI slot door. The open door and edges of this fan are sealed with strips of duct tape...
Needless to say, this is not an optimal way to run the G4. After some looking online, I discovered that it's possible to buy refurbished/used G4 power supplies for around $90, but I'd rather not spend that much on a used power supply, particularly since this is actually the second power supply fan failure on this G4 - the first when the G4 was only a year old - so I'm not thrilled about buying the same model Apple PSU!
On a visit to my local Fry's store, I noticed they had a large assortment of power supplies, and that they seem to be pretty much the same as the one inside the G4 now - makes sense.
-My basic question is, can I use one of these basic PC power supplies in the G4? What, specifically, do I need to check to ensure that I don't blow anything out?
-Also, is the "power plug" on the G4's logic board a standard configuration, or is it wired differently than the ports on other PC logic/mother boards?
-The PSU inside the G4 says that it has a maximum output of 237 Watts and 32 Amps. I assume I need to purchase one that's very similar in output - how large of a difference between this PSU's power rating and the new PSU's rating is too large?
-Finally, what kind of screwdriver do I need to pull the existing PSU out of the G4?
Again, I have a 400 mhz "Sawtooth" PowerMac G4 from 1999, with a 16 MB AGP Rage 128 video card, and many upgrades. (DVD burner, more RAM, new HDDs, USB 2 card)
Thanks a bunch,
-Dan

According to the linked Forum Topic, the SilenX brand fan (80mm x 25mm = 80mm square x 25mm thick) plugged directly into the power supply's circuit board without splicing wires. Even if you need to splice wires, you just leave enough of the original fan's wires intact by cutting them off close to the fan itself, then joining them to the identical wires on the new ones. Any store having electronic supplies will probably have the mini-wire connectors, that you slide over the spliced wires and crimp in place. Electrical tape doesn't hold up as well in hot environments. Don't leave any excess wire length laying about inside the power supply, touching some of the hot components. Use a small nylon wire tie to gather the excess wire together, and hold away from the circuit board's components. The power supply housing has two halves, that can be separated enough to access the fan, after removing some phillips machine screws. A Google search may provide a page with photos of the procedure. The case fan is 120mm square x 25mm thick. If you want to use the same connection point as the original, you may need to cut the wires close to the original fan and splice them to the new ones. Otherwise, those fans typically have a standard molex power connector, that readily plugs into an available power lead. When buying replacement fans, be sure to get ones that provide a high airflow (CFM rating) for the given speed (RPM) and noise level (db rating). The noise level is important, because even a new fan can be loud.

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Before you begin, open the computer, lay it on its side with the access side facing up, and remove
the following:
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• Optical drive carrier and optical drives
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3. Lift the power supply a short distance and rest it on the edge of the enclosure.
4. Starting with the top connector and working down, disconnect the four connectors on the
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5. Remove the power supply from the enclosure.
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1. Rest the power supply on the edge of the enclosure so that its cable can reach the media
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2. Starting with the top connector and working down, release the four power harness cable
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8. Slide the power supply toward the back of the computer as far as possible.
9. Make sure the power receptacle aligns with the opening in the enclosure’s back panel and
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I need to replace a DC power plug that plugs into the 431446-001 or 431445-001 USB/Power Connector Board.
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Well, the dimensions of that tip are 4.8 x 1.7 mm. Can't find a dimension for the length.
The tip numbers for a targus adapter are L107 and 201. The reason for the 2 different part numbers is because targus makes 2 different adapters that the plugs plug into different ways.
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Did someone help you? Pay it forward. Help someone else.
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Adding third party video card to P700 - no power connectors? New Power Supply Question...

Hello,
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Your config isn't really power hungry (and the 85W CPUs help a lot). Though technically outside of the official spec, I think you could easily go to a 225W card for graphics if you had the connectors available to support it. I'll double check the current when I get a chance, but it's probably really low risk if you want to convert your single 6-pin connector to dual 6-pin or a single 8-pin (via a dongle) to get to 225W TDP if you wanted to.
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And like I said if you're comfortable working inside the system, it's not impossible to upgrade that cable drop on your own if you want to go up to the 850W. You'd have to get the cable and PSU, but after that it would require removing the motherboard and PSU, cutting some cable ties and routing the new cable, then getting everything routed correctly such that the motherboard reinstalls cleanly.

Power supply spark...fried mobo?

Hey my frieed with a K8N Neo is having a problem..everything was working fine in his pc for 11 months...one day his powersupply sparked and the computer would not boot. No lights, no fans, nothing.
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512 Geil Ram
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Gildan,
You asked the following:
btw, how do u do (4)? (which was how to read voltages on motherboard with voltage multimeter (VMM).
Fiirst thing to do is to read and understand following thoroughly:
VMM USAGE INFORMATION
Many troubleshooting procedures require that you measure voltage and resistance. You take these measurements by using a handheld Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). The meter can be an analog device (using an actual meter) or a digital-readout device. The DMM has a pair of wires called test leads or probes. The test leads make the connections so that you can take readings. Depending on the meter's setting, the probes measure electrical resistance, direct-current (DC) voltage, or alternating-current (AC) voltage.
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If you are holding a lead in each hand and accidentally slip, you can very easily become a circuit, allowing power to conduct or flow through you. When the power is flowing from arm to arm, the path of the current is directly across the heart. Hearts have a tendency to quit working when subjected to high voltages. They're funny that way.
I prefer the small digital meters; you can buy them for only slightly more than the analog style, and they're extremely accurate, as well as much safer for digital circuits. Some of these meters are not much bigger than a cassette tape; they fit in a shirt pocket. Radio Shack sells a good unit (made for Radio Shack by Beckman) in the $25 price range; the meter is a half-inch thick, weighs 3 1/2 ounces, and is digital and autoranging as well. This type of meter works well for most, if not all, PC troubleshooting and test uses.
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Here is how to get a Vddr reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=583463
(Put red lead sensor on green dot)
Here is how to get a Vcore reading on a MS-7025 Neo2 platinum: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23902&stc=1
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Have fun,

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Hello everybody. This is my first post in this forum.
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It should be a standard size. Measure it out, then compare with other (standard size) PSUs:
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New power supply and graphic card for Compaq CQ3232L

Hi all,
I am using Compaq CQ3232L and would like to upgrade the graphic card with one of the HD 5770, Sapphire HD 5770 Vapor-X 1Gb 128Bit DDR5 to be exact.
My current power supply (Bestec Model ATX01...) specs are:
+12V/11A, peak 13A
+5V/10A, +3.3V/10A,
-12V/0.3A, 180W according the manual.
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Regards,
Eko

WSH, besides measuring the PSU, you should assure that there is sufficient space for the video card. Open the case. Measure from the edge of the case to the opposite side of the motherboard where the PCIE slot is located. This is the approximate length of the card that will fit.
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Signature:
HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
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Hi,
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it's a universal device, so will work anywhere.
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HP Power supply PPP012H-S / 384020-002 compatibility with Pavilion DV5000 (DV5196EA) notebook?

I have a Pavilion DV5000 (specifically, DV5196EA) notebook where I need to replace its original power supply.
I also have an HP power supply from some other notebook (I don't recall what kind) which shows the same output specifications (19V, slightly higher wattage than the original), but it has the wrong physical plug on the end.
The original power supply has a tip similar to this:
The other power supply that I have, from some other notebook, has a larger tip which looks like this:
(Apparent sizes are incorrect in the in-line image uploads above -- the actual tip on the PPP012H-S power supply is about twice as wide as the tip on the original power supply of my DV5000 series notebook).
I tested both power supplies using a multi-meter, and confirmed that the power output of both is 19VDC.
I clipped off the current large barrel end from the PPP012H-S power supply and stripped the wires, intending to solder on a common replacement tip which matches that of the original power supply, but I found a surprise when I stripped the wires:
There are three conductors inside the sheath of the PPP012H-S power supply. An outer heavy braided shell just inside the outermost rubber-plastic insulating coating, inside which is another smaller gauge rubber-plastic insulating coating, with innermost two more normal insulated stranded wires - one in white and the other in blue.
I had assumed that the outer braided shell was either ground or EM shielding, but in fact it's a conductor. Using the multi-meter I found a 19VDC differential between that outer braided shell and EITHER the inner white or the inner blue wire.
And one more weird thing. Switching the multi-meter now to resistance mode, I had expected (given the voltage detection above) that the large thin barrel of the PPP012H-S adapter's tip would share one electric potential both outside and inside the barrel, with the very find centre pin being the other pole ... but no. There are apparently three conductive surfaces; the outside of the barrel, the inside of the barrel, and the centre pin, none of which are connected to each other.
Not wanting to guess that the power supply might like the idea of shorting the white and blue leads together, and observing (I think?!) that the tip of the original power supply has only two conductive surfaces, and therefore guessing that even if the PPP012H-S' intended notebook might care about whether it was being fed from white or blue the DV5000 would not care, I insulated off the white lead and soldered the outer braided shell and the blue lead to the new tip. Multi-meter again confirms a steady 19VDC in the correct polarity.
But when plugged in to the DV5196EA notebook, the notebook does not detect any power being supplied.
Crap.
Is there some kind of electronics smarts in the PPP012H-S power supply which makes it detect and refuse to supply power to the DV5196EA notebook? Or some not-quite-so-smarts but which still really wanted me to use the white lead instead of the blue lead? .. or is even the simpler tip on the original adapter (which I believe has only two conductive surfaces) actually a little less simple than I think and it does have three surfaces and I do need to attach all three of the conductors from the PPP012H-S to (Something, where?) on the replacement tip?
Yes, a bit of work to go through to avoid spending $50 on a new power supply, but I've got the parts and I thought I had the smarts and I enjoy the challenge (up to a point!)
Thanks for your help!
-Jay

can anyone tell me the pinout of a ppp012h-s power supply please?

Power Supply Help for 466mhz G4 - where can i get a good deal.

I need to find a replacement for the power supply in the machine. It is an original 466mhz g4, agp graphics. The power supply says 126w max and had AC BEL on it.
Can anyone help me out in finding a cheap place to get a power supply that fits this machine perfectly? Looking for a reputable dealer (obviously).
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Hi Nelson,
You're machine is a Digital Audio (the only G4 to have shipped with 466MHz processors), and the PSU is 338W - which should be adequate for most things. Why do you need a new power supply?
If you need a new one, it won't be cheap. You can try this place:
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Hope this helps,
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Router power supply: Switch mode or linear?

I need to replace a failed power supply for a router - which model doesn't really matter but the router is a WRT54GS (12V 1000mA). Which is best - a switch mode or a linear power supply? Will either be just as good? Please only answer if you DEFINITELY know the answer. Cheers, Mike

Power adapter uses External, 12V DC, and 0.5A...

Power Supply Concern

I am about to order a new desktop direct from HP. A 300 watt power supply is included in the base price. It has a Radeon HD 7570 card included. When researching the card on its' product website, it states a 400 watt or greater supply is recommended. Can I trust HP's packaging or do I go with the recommendation from the card's site? A 460 watt supply is optional for an additional $30. It's only $30 but is it necessary?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

You can trust what HP says. The reccomendation is based on a specific configuration and not what you are going to buy. You can look up real world power usage specs for just about any graphics card and they will tell you whether or not your PC can handle it with the power supply specs it has. I have a 500 watt PSU and my system usage only hovers around 160-180 with all the stuff I have in there. It's the 12v capabilities that are key in having the right PSU. Some can provide a lot at any given wattage and others can't.

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