Power supply specs

there are so many power supply to choose from ranging to a cheap 30 dollars with high watts 480 to as much as 150 dollars with same watts, what makes them difference? will having high watt make computer boot up faster and run program faster? I need help!

A power supply won't make your computer run or start any faster but a cheapie can make your system run like crap or not run at all.
The more expensive units typically supply more power, or are more efficient at maintaining power as the computer generates heat. Some are even silent using heat pipe technologies in place of high speed fans. Some even have redundant rails to maintain power in a situation where one rail may fail.
With A64 systems we usually want to look at PSU's that have high amps (24+a) on the 12v rail. More is better here as our systems eat mostly 12v. Some units today are 30+ amps on the 12v rail and while they are not cheap they are desirable as they allow for growth and provide stable power when we need it.
Hope that helps

Similar Messages

Replacement Sawtooth G4 power supply - Specs?

Hello!
Well, a couple of months back, I discovered that the power supply fan in my 400mhz AGP (Sawtooth) G4 had stopped running. My interim fix? A powerful case fan, attached via Velcro to the outside of the case (sucking air out of the G4) with the power cable running through an empty PCI slot door. The open door and edges of this fan are sealed with strips of duct tape...
Needless to say, this is not an optimal way to run the G4. After some looking online, I discovered that it's possible to buy refurbished/used G4 power supplies for around $90, but I'd rather not spend that much on a used power supply, particularly since this is actually the second power supply fan failure on this G4 - the first when the G4 was only a year old - so I'm not thrilled about buying the same model Apple PSU!
On a visit to my local Fry's store, I noticed they had a large assortment of power supplies, and that they seem to be pretty much the same as the one inside the G4 now - makes sense.
-My basic question is, can I use one of these basic PC power supplies in the G4? What, specifically, do I need to check to ensure that I don't blow anything out?
-Also, is the "power plug" on the G4's logic board a standard configuration, or is it wired differently than the ports on other PC logic/mother boards?
-The PSU inside the G4 says that it has a maximum output of 237 Watts and 32 Amps. I assume I need to purchase one that's very similar in output - how large of a difference between this PSU's power rating and the new PSU's rating is too large?
-Finally, what kind of screwdriver do I need to pull the existing PSU out of the G4?
Again, I have a 400 mhz "Sawtooth" PowerMac G4 from 1999, with a 16 MB AGP Rage 128 video card, and many upgrades. (DVD burner, more RAM, new HDDs, USB 2 card)
Thanks a bunch,
-Dan

According to the linked Forum Topic, the SilenX brand fan (80mm x 25mm = 80mm square x 25mm thick) plugged directly into the power supply's circuit board without splicing wires. Even if you need to splice wires, you just leave enough of the original fan's wires intact by cutting them off close to the fan itself, then joining them to the identical wires on the new ones. Any store having electronic supplies will probably have the mini-wire connectors, that you slide over the spliced wires and crimp in place. Electrical tape doesn't hold up as well in hot environments. Don't leave any excess wire length laying about inside the power supply, touching some of the hot components. Use a small nylon wire tie to gather the excess wire together, and hold away from the circuit board's components. The power supply housing has two halves, that can be separated enough to access the fan, after removing some phillips machine screws. A Google search may provide a page with photos of the procedure. The case fan is 120mm square x 25mm thick. If you want to use the same connection point as the original, you may need to cut the wires close to the original fan and splice them to the new ones. Otherwise, those fans typically have a standard molex power connector, that readily plugs into an available power lead. When buying replacement fans, be sure to get ones that provide a high airflow (CFM rating) for the given speed (RPM) and noise level (db rating). The noise level is important, because even a new fan can be loud.

Power Supply Concern

I am about to order a new desktop direct from HP. A 300 watt power supply is included in the base price. It has a Radeon HD 7570 card included. When researching the card on its' product website, it states a 400 watt or greater supply is recommended. Can I trust HP's packaging or do I go with the recommendation from the card's site? A 460 watt supply is optional for an additional $30. It's only $30 but is it necessary?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

You can trust what HP says. The reccomendation is based on a specific configuration and not what you are going to buy. You can look up real world power usage specs for just about any graphics card and they will tell you whether or not your PC can handle it with the power supply specs it has. I have a 500 watt PSU and my system usage only hovers around 160-180 with all the stuff I have in there. It's the 12v capabilities that are key in having the right PSU. Some can provide a lot at any given wattage and others can't.

N560GTX-Ti power supply amps?

Did a search and didn't see this being asked.
The manual for this card states : "Minimum 500W or greater system power supply (with a minimum 12V current rating of 30A) is
recommended"
Mine is a 600W with 12V or 24A. Since there are two 12V plugs and all three of my 12V power connectors are 24A; would that give me 48A ?
Or do I need two at 30+A?

I have:
hec XPOWER780 600W(780W Peak) ATX12V v2.3 / EPS12V v2.91 SLI NVIDIA HYBRID-SLI Certified CrossFire Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Specs:
600W(780W Peak)
+3.3V@24A, +5V@17A, +12V1@24A, +12V2@24A, +12V3@24A, [email protected], [email protected]
Triple independent and stable +12V rails promote the best performance to gamers
Thanks

[GeForce 6] should I upgrade my power supply

I'm currently running a MSI gforce NX6600GT 128megs AGP with 15 amps on the 12 volt rail. Should I replace my power supply

Here are the specs for my system.
Operating System
Windows XP Professional Service Pack 2 (build 2600)
mother board
MSI MS-6741 1.0
1.80 gigahertz AMD 2800 Athlon 64
128 kilobyte primary memory cache
512 kilobyte secondary memory cache
hard drives
Maxtor 2F040J0 [Hard drive] (41.11 GB) -- drive 1, s/n
Maxtor 6E020L0 [Hard drive] (20.85 GB) -- drive 0, s/n
bios
BIOS: American Megatrends Inc. Version 07.00T 04/02/01
Memory Modules
both of them are kingston hyper X
Slot '0' has 512 MB
Slot '1' has 256 MB
audio
Realtek AC'97 Audio for VIA (R) Audio Controller
power supply specs
voltage
3.3 v 28amps
5v 30amps
12 v15amps
current
3.3v 0.3a amps
5v 2.0a amps
12v 0.8a amps
If you need anymore specs let me know.

How to remove and detailed specs of Power Supply?

I was trying to remove the power supply you know just as curiosity and also I would like to know the tecnical specs of this PSU, Watts, maximum Amperes in 12V, if this has 8 or 6 PCIe connectors, etc.

pullman wrote:
Welcome to discussions.
From http://www.apple.com/macpro/specs.html:
# Line voltage: 100-120V AC or 200-240V AC (wide-range power supply input voltage)
# Frequency: 50Hz to 60Hz single phase
# Current: Maximum of 12A (low-voltage range) or 6A (high-voltage range).
Here's Apple's article on the power consumption of the early 2008 Mac Pro: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=307495.
I don't understand what you mean by remove the power supply.
Here's Apple's article on the PCIe on Mac Pro: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2838.
/p
I got more information with the "Catch Them Document" but I still don't know the specs, according to your links mac pros consume 155 W on idle and 318 W on load but what's the maximum power of the PSU.

I get power cuts in France. I need a ups emergency power supply. What spec do I need and what is the best manufacturer?

I get power cuts in France. I need a ups emergency power supply. What spec do I need and what is the best manufacturer? I have a Mac Pro from 2007 2 x 3 ghz dual core intel xeon. I would like a machine which will work with a replacement Mac Pro which I will be getting in the next few months. Alan Boyle

1500VA 865Watt
APC in some/most countries
Cyberpower - what I used to replace APC
You do not need pure sine-wave or SMART series which are top price but considered besr may be over-kill

What are the dimensions and specs of the 3000 Series H210 Power Supply? Can I upgrade it?

Power Supply Specs

Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

Power Supply Temperatures Running Hot! Mac Pro shuts down.

Hello,
First I will give machine/hardware specs of interest:
2 x 3 GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon (pre 2009)
8 GB 800 MHz DDR2 FB-DIMM
NVIDIA Quadro FX 5600 (running 2 displays)
Apple RAID Card/Controller
SMC Version: 1.25f4
*venting dimensions around computer: top=18", left side=3", right side=3" and back=18".
Software of interest currently running:
OS X 10.5.8
iStat Menu
SMC Fan Control
My machine has been shutting down spontaneously and I suspect either CPU or power supply overheating. In the 5 instances this has occurred, the room was very warm (AC was not on) and I was running HandBrake with CPU at full and an iStat reading of 145 F. Ambient was 77 F and I was not reading power supply temps at the time. I figured for sure this must be a CPU overheating issue. However, just a few hours ago I had another shutdown. The room was warm again but I was not running Handbrake, but StarCraft II. I have played a lot of Starcraft II with no problems until tonight.
I decided, this time, to check the temps on my power supplies. Power supply 1 = 147 F, and #2 is at 178 F. After many hours of searching forums I have concluded that these are crazy hot temps! I immediately installed SMC Fan Control to attempt to increase the fan speeds. I was successful in increasing all fans except the power supply (stuck at 599rpm). I have now turned the AC on in the house and the Ambient is down to 70, PS #1 145 and PS #2 169. All of these temps are a result of and idle machine running a browser.
The following may or may not be an issue, however, leave no stone unturned. I currently have 12 external devices running on USB. 4 WD passport drives, 1 DVD writer, 5 WD powered drives plus the keyboard and mouse. Also, the Mac Pro is plugged into a small UPS.
In all my forum searches, I just can't seem to answer some basic questions:
1. Can an overheated power supply shut the system down?
2. What are optimal (normal) running temps for Mac Pro's? (everyone seems to have opinions, but there doesn't appear to be a technical specification anywhere).
3. I thought the fans, especially CPU fans, were supposed to kick in when the heat rises. Why are mine staying at minimal rpm's?
Finally, does it look like I need new power supplies? Fans?
This machine was put into service in March of 2008 and has done very intensive rendering for the film industry...long nights...rendering for days sometimes. It has been retired for over a year now and is used at a lesser degree.
Thanks for reading this long post! I appreciate any input you can provide!
Other iStat reading of interest:
Power Supply 1 voltage = 12.28 V
Power Supply 1 current = 26.44 A
Power Supply 1 power = 316.75 W

Also, the Mac Pro is plugged into a small UPS.
Put your peripherals on that.
Don't share the same circuit for A/C as the Mac Pro, and put the Mac on 1300VA UPS at least.
As for all those external drives.... I'd consolidate into a good SATA case or two.
And yes in summer run with 3 of the fans up around 900 rpm.

HP Z400 Workstation Power Supply not Supported

Good Day All,
I would like to seek help on the issue that i am currently facing.
Currently, I am using an HP Z400 Workstation and decided to switch to a bigger casing. I Bought a Full tower and casing and just realized that i am unable to move the power supply (425 Watts) as well due to the cables are too short to reach the CPU main Powers.
So I bought a separate Power Supply (Cooler Master M2 Silent Pro 850 Watts).The cables are perfectly enough to reach the CPU main power source. After putting everything the pc won’t turn on……
I thought my newly power supply was defective and got a replacement at the same day. I tried the new Power supply and simply does not want to turn on… this is getting frustrating as I am unable to figure out what is really causing the issue.
I also tried to just plugging the cables at the Main power and removed all the additional devices just to test but still no luck….
I started checking forums… there is only one post regarding about unable to change any other third party Power Supply for this HP Z400 Workstation. I guess it apply to all HP Branded as well as Dell.
Guys I need your help as I don’t want to make a mistake again on considering to build another machine just because this one was not working… Maybe there is one there that manages to bypass or have a resolution on how I can successfully upgrade my Power supply using the same HP Motherboard.
Here is my Current Specs..
Processor
Intel® Xeon® Quad-Core Processor W3565 (3.20 GHz, 8 MB cache, 1066 MHz memory)
Chipset Intel® X58 Express
Here is the link for the full details of the specs
http://www8.hp.com/sg/en/products/workstations/product-detail.html?oid=3718668
Here is the power supply I want to replace http://h20464.www2.hp.com/results.htm?SID=3718668&MEID=368CA2BE-30F2-40AE-8929-DBF4AF2ADC21
Will wait for your kind reply,
Thanks

The reason it won't turn on is because pins 21 and 23 are not in the standard ATX PSU configuration. Your motherboard works with an HP configured ground on pin 21 and +12 VDC instead of the ATX (ATX12V v2.01)standard unused pin and +5VDC respectively.
Z400 PSU connector
Standard ATX PSU connector
I have not seen a non HP PSU available that would work without modification.
Not all HP's are built with propietary PSU connections most newer, non-business models use the standard ATX PSU configuration.
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

Need Help with power supply reccomendations for my graphics card

hi
i have a MSI GeForce GTX 780 Graphics card... i built my own system, i also got a rosewill rx750 power supply in it which i think is causing me problems, the computer works great until i get into games like titan fall and try and get into a game then it restarts the computer on its own.. has done this with a few games, but it works fine when surfing the net and so forth, i have read its to do with the power supply being week and also read my chosen power supply isnt that good... anyone got any recommendations for me that i should look at or am i looking in the wrong direction with whats wrong with my pc... any help would be great thanks

yes the PSU is the most important choice out there and corsair and seasonic are the best out there! (never buy cheap PSU's as like abvolt said a cheap one can easily kill your more expensive parts)
Cheap PSU = made of the most cheap parts they could get "think cheap shanghai parts are used that may be of any quality good or awful as its just what they could get for the lowest price" (ever bought anything that was super cheap they break very easily)
Quality PSU = the use of good quality well made parts and will have very good testing done on them to make sure they are stable and pass very tight regulations and conform to specs for 10-30 different factors each.
a cheap low quality PSU I class as a paper weight as it will never go near a computer (maybe i would use one as a basic bench PSU for things i do not care if they die or just for testing a fan or something that rubbish dirty power is not really a major problem but silicon is not tolerant to dirty power and will kill parts)

Upgrade video card and power supply or upgrade my pc?

I have a :
HP
Series Pavilion Model M8530F(KT334AA) Type Media Center / HTPC Processor AMD Phenom X4 9550(2.2GHz) Processor Main Features 64 bit Quad-Core Processor Cache Per Processor 4 x 512KB L2 Cache Memory 5GB DDR2 800 Hard Drive 750GB 7200RPM SATA Optical Drive 1 SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology Graphics NVIDIA GeForce 9300GE with Hybrid SLI Technology with 256MB dedicated video memory, DVI and HDMI capabilities, and support for Microsoft DirectX 10. Up to 1919MB Total Available Graphics Memory as allocated by Windows Vista Audio High Definition audio Ethernet Integrated 10/100/1000Mbps network interface Keyboard HP multimedia keyboard Mouse HP optical mouse Operating System Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit Software Included Photo and Video
muvee autoProducer Basic: Automatically create professional looking home videos and burn to DVD
Entertainment
Cyberlink DVD Suite Deluxe: Automatically fix and edit videos and create CDs and DVDs. Edit, burn and archive data to discs.
Productivity
Microsoft Works 9: Includes a word processor, spreadsheet, database and calendar
Microsoft Office Home and Student Edition 2007 Trial: 60-day trial version
Adobe Reader 8: Read and print PDF file
PC Security
Norton Internet Security 2008: Protect your PC out of the box (60 days of complimentary live updates)
Online Services
Easy sign-up to major dial-up and broadband Internet Service Providers:
- MSN dial-up (offer included)
- NetZero Dial-Up (offer included)
- NetZero Accelerated Dial-Up (offer included)
- Juno Turbo Dial-Up (offer included)
- High Speed Internet Services Comparison Shopping
Motherboard Chipset NVIDIA GeForce 8200 Chipset
CPU CPU Type Phenom X4 Installed Qty 1 CPU Speed 9550(2.2GHz) L2 Cache Per CPU 4 x 512KB CPU Socket Type AM2+ CPU Main Features 64 bit Quad-Core Processor
Graphics GPU/VPU Type NVIDIA GeForce 9300 GE Graphics Interface PCI Express x16
Memory Memory Capacity 5GB DDR2 Memory Speed DDR2 800 Form Factor DIMM 240-pin Memory Spec 2GB x 1 & 1GB x 3 Memory Slots (Available/Total) 0/4 Maximum Memory Supported 8GB
Hard Drive HDD Capacity 750GB HDD Interface SATA HDD RPM 7200rpm
Optical Drive Optical Drive Type DVD Super Multi Optical Drive Spec SuperMulti DVD Burner with LightScribe Technology
16x DVD±R, 8x DVD+RW, 6x DVD-RW, 8x DVD+R DL, 4x DVD-R DL, 5x DVD-RAM, 16x DVD-ROM, 40x CDR, 32x CDRW, 40x CD-ROM
Audio Audio Chipset Integrated
Communications Modem 56K LAN Chipset Integrated LAN Speed 10/100/1000Mbps
Front Panel Ports Front USB 2 Front IEEE 1394 1 Front Audio Ports 2 Card Reader Front panel 15-in-1 memory card reader: supports SmartMedia, xD, MultiMedia Card, Secure Digital (SD), Mini Secure Digital, Compact Flash I, Compact Flash II, IBM Microdrive, Memory Stick, Memory Stick Pro, Memory Stick Duo, Memory Stick Pro Duo, RSMMC, MMC Mobile, MMC+
Back Panel Ports PS/2 2 Video Ports 1 DVI, 1 HDMI Rear USB 4 Rear IEEE 1394 1 RJ45 1 port Rear Audio Ports 6 ports S/P DIF 1 port
Expansion PCI Slots (Available/Total) (2/3) PCI-E x1 slots
(0/1) PCI-E x16 slot
Mouse Mouse Type HP optical mouse
Keyboard Keyboard Type HP multimedia keyboard
Physical Spec Dimensions 16.54" x 15.16" x 7.60" Weight 32.00 lbs.
Manufacturer Warranty Parts 1 year limited Labor 1 year limited
Sorry for the long copy and paste. I read that I can upgrade the video card and power supply. But atm when I play world of warcraft at ultra settings, I tend to lag really bad in the new instances with the new cat expansion that came out. I wanted to know if I should upgrade the video card and power supply for better performance or just upgrade my whole pc tower. Fyi, I am running a Acer X243w lcd flat panel monitor if that helps too.

My brother has a high end laptop with a built in, high end gaming video card (I forget which one). He's able to run the game on full-on Ultra.
I have an integrated video card which games the game on.. 'cartoon'.. mode. It's lower then low. When someone shoots a powerful spell at me, I go into a DOS Prompt. (not really, but it's pretty bad).
Funny thing is, I can still kick my brother's butt in any PVP match he wants to set up.
But I guess his graphics are pretty....
As for which video card works best, I'd have to do some research. After that graphics update they did with CAT, it's kind of a toss up again.
I am a Bestbuy employee who volunteers on these boards on my own time. I am not paid for posting here, and you should understand that my opinions are exactly that - opinions. I do not represent Bestbuy in any way.
: Open Mailbox

Power Supply Help

Hey,
I'm building a new computer. The specs are as follows:
CASE: Aero Cool Jetmaster Mid Tower ATX
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte GA-K8NF-9 NVIDIA nForce4 4X (Socket 939)
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 3000 (Socket 939)
MEMORY: PC3200 400MHz 1 Gig (2x512 Meg) 184pin DDR SDRam
VIDEO CARD: eVGA e-geForce 6800 GT PCI-E 16x 256 Megs GDDR3
HARD DRIVES: Western Digital 80 Gig HD @ 7200RPM + Maxtor 40 Gig HD @ 7200RPM
OPTICAL DRIVE 1: Creative 52X CD-ROM Drive
OPTICAL DRIVE 2: DVD-RW
OPTICAL DRIVE 3: CD-RW
+ a Floppy Drive
I will be looking to do a lot of high end games on this machine and I am looking for a power supply to suit my needs. So far I am looking at a COOLMAX 450W SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY (model CT-450) vs. the Enermax Whisper 431W Power Supply (model EG465P-VE)
The thing is that your Enermax power supply is going to cost me a bit more than the Coolmax power supply. However, I am willing to pay the extra cast IF its needed, but ONLY if its needed. So what do you guys think. Can anyone here give me an opinion as to which power supply is better suited for my needs
Also, if you think that none of these power supplies are good for me and I should go in a whole new directions completely... let me know what power supply you think I should go with instead, thnx

Quote from: zero260 on 23-May-05, 08:15:26
Hey,
I'm building a new computer. The specs are as follows:
CASE: Aero Cool Jetmaster Mid Tower ATX
MOTHERBOARD: Gigabyte GA-K8NF-9 NVIDIA nForce4 4X (Socket 939)
CPU: AMD Athlon 64 3000 (Socket 939)
MEMORY: PC3200 400MHz 1 Gig (2x512 Meg) 184pin DDR SDRam
VIDEO CARD: eVGA e-geForce 6800 GT PCI-E 16x 256 Megs GDDR3
HARD DRIVES: Western Digital 80 Gig HD @ 7200RPM + Maxtor 40 Gig HD @ 7200RPM
OPTICAL DRIVE 1: Creative 52X CD-ROM Drive
OPTICAL DRIVE 2: DVD-RW
OPTICAL DRIVE 3: CD-RW
+ a Floppy Drive
I will be looking to do a lot of high end games on this machine and I am looking for a power supply to suit my needs. So far I am looking at a COOLMAX 450W SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY (model CT-450) vs. the Enermax Whisper 431W Power Supply (model EG465P-VE)
The thing is that your Enermax power supply is going to cost me a bit more than the Coolmax power supply. However, I am willing to pay the extra cast IF its needed, but ONLY if its needed. So what do you guys think. Can anyone here give me an opinion as to which power supply is better suited for my needs
Also, if you think that none of these power supplies are good for me and I should go in a whole new directions completely... let me know what power supply you think I should go with instead, thnx
Not to sound like an a$$hole, but in what way does this post fit into 'MSI'????

Where can I get an EU power supply for my late 2009 mac mini

I have a late 2009 mac mini. The power supply is good for US voltage only. The new mac mini specs say they can accept 110 - 220 VAC, 50-60 Hz. Will one of these new power supplies work with my older mini? Where can I get one, can't seem to locate on the Apple online store. Moving to France and don't want to leave my mac behind!
Thanks,
JSP

you could get something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-XP18000-Universal-External-Netbooks/dp/B002K8M9H C
it's about the same cost as an extra battery used to be. there's a range of similiar products at Amazon, i'd check reviews.

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