SATA trouble? Lost array? read this!
Firstly thanks to the contributors to the SATA FAQ. Feel free to move/copy this to it if u think it makes sense.
After my 10th iteration of installing XP pro on the rig below , I have found a nasty bug which made me waste all this time:
Once you have installed your SATA drive(s) according to the FAQ, there is a very simple way to mess it all up: go to the system administration menu, storage administration and CHANGE THE LETTERS (E,F...)OF YOUR CD/DVD drives.
While this is "legal", at reboot, the system will lose your SATA !!!!
Instead of reinstalling, go into BIOS and have it auto-detect all the drives whether CD, DVD or HDD.
This will recover it.
I went crazy after losing all sorts of RAID arrays! Hope this helps somebody.
Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true.
Similar Messages
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Trouble shooting guide! Read this first!!!! rev 13-1-2004
(Revision 13-1-2004)
Hi there,
Follow everything on the list, even if it doesn't look like it would solve your problem, most problems are created somewhere else!
To give some examples:
CPU won't run FSB133....mostly powersupply or CPU-cooler.
Videocard won't load drivers....mostly powersupply.
Sound won't work.....mostly metal-standoff's.
Windows won't install, file read error.....mostly CPU-cooler, Bad-ram or powersupply.
That is why you need to go over the entire list and check all!
Before you start doing anything, remove the power and make sure that you have touched the metal case of your system. If you don't you could damage your system due to static discharge!
Thanks to Arioch and Dragon60 for comments on this.
There are several reasons why this happens.....to name the most commen:
CPU speeds
You have a Duron, that CPU is 100FSB!
You have a Athlon(XP) and it's showing the wrong speed, set the CPU-FSB to 133....
Or 166 when it's a FSB333 CPU....or 200 when it's a FSB400 CPU....
Some boards have a jumper to set it, other do it in the BIOS.
Check your manual for this.
Speeds must be:
Duron upto 1300MHz = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Duron from 1400MHz = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon B type = 100MHz (=200DDR)
Athlon C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - C type = 133MHz (=266DDR)
Athlon XP - D type = 166MHz (=333DDR)
Athlon XP - E type = 200MHz (=400DDR)
Use this link to see if your motherboard actually supports your CPU.
The TBred CPU's (0.13) start from XP-1700 and up, but not all boards support this CPU and they either show on the D-LED all red or don't start at all!!
The K7T266pro2 is an exception, it can be made to support the TBred CPU's, on this link you find all the info on how to make it work.
Many reports have told us that FSB333 CPU's work on KT3-Ultra boards work just fine, but it's unsupported by MSI, we don't know why....
As for mulipliers with AMD CPU's, just set them Automatic, as they are hardcoded on the CPU themselves and will allway's be correctly, even if if you think the BIOS doesn't know it.
How to recognise the CPU:
If you look on the dice, there are letters after the speed.
The last letter will tell you the FSB of the CPU.
B=100MHz (=200DDR)
C=133MHz (=266DDR)
D=166MHz (=333DDR)
E=200MHz (=400DDR)
To recognise a CPU quickly, checkout this link.
Thanks Mellops.
The MHz setting must match your setting in the BIOS for FSB value, as it translates to the correct FSB setting for the CPU.
The best way to identify a processor is by using the OPN (Ordering Part Number) which can be found on the processor (E.g. AXDA 2700 D K V 3 D).
Detailed information on the code can be found in this AMD document. (Thanks Hans)
CPU Cooling
CPU cooler not made for your CPU, check if it can handle your CPU....
CPU cooler mounted wrong!, take it off and check it as it will fit 2 way's, but only 1 is the right one, examine very carefull!
The cooler has a lower part that needs to go over the bump (higher part) of the socket, if it's not over there it won't cool the entire dice and WILL give you trouble.
Also check if it's making contact with the entire dice of the CPU...
Make sure you regrease it again, the same grease/paste can't be used twice!
YOU MAY NEVER USE A THERMALPAD OR GREASE AGAIN! APPLY NEW EVERY TIME YOU TAKE THE COOLER OFF!!
top 2 show how not to do it
Used too much silver-grease! It will shorten the bridges on the CPU, clean it and use white-paste.
(Silver-paste is not recommended in any case!)
The latest AMD XP CPU's (XP-2200 and above) require a copperbased heatsink because the dice is smaller and generates far more heat per square cm then the "old" CPU's do.
How to check the cooler before taking it off.
There is a simple way to check the cooler without taking it off.
You do this by first checking your idle temp with PCAlert, it should be below 50-55C.
Then you download a client from www.distributed.net, let this client run for about 10 minutes while monitoring the temps, after about 1 minute or so it should stabilize and your temp should have gone up about 10-15C (max).
If it still goes up or the system crashes, there is a big chance you mounted the CPU-cooler wrong.
When you can't run this check, try with FSB100, if the system does run the check then, it could be well that the cooler is mounted wrong or your powersupply doesn't have enough power.
***** YOU CAN'T CHECK THE CPU COOLER ON TEMPS OR FAN RUNNING, IT MUST BE TAKEN OFF THE CPU!!! *****
Cleaning the CPU and Cooler - thanks to Dragon60 for his addition.
An additional comments about this is what you clean the CPU with in this situation. The best thing to use is isopropyl alcohol. If this is not available then metholated spirits would do.
Make sure you allow the CPU to dry properly before you put it back in. This also means DO NOT try and clean it whilst it is still in the socket as some of the cleaning fluid, grease and dirt may get underneath and short some pins.
Last but not least. DO NOT use acetone to clean anything inside your PC. (or outside for that matter) It MAY not do any damage BUT it may disolve some parts.
Thanks Dragon60.
If you don't understand what we are talking about on this cooler matter, then read this link: AMD CPU & Cooling guide
Powersupplies
Powersupply too little, most commen cheap 300W CPU's can't handle an XP-1700 or above, try a better one to be sure.
Make sure your powersupply has about 185W combined on the 3.3+5V and that the 3.3V has 20A or above.
That should be enough for most systems.
On the latest boards the 12V has become very important too, expecialy with TBred CPU's.
Make sure yours can give 18A or more on the 12V line too.
I have found that a lot of cheap 350W will fail with modern boards and TBred CPU's.
Allway's make sure you have a decend PSU, it never fails to spent a bit more on that part!
Borrow a bigger one from a friend if you are not sure....
More info about powersupplies: Click here.
And the second you must read: Click here.
Powersupplies with these type of numbers on them or higher should be fine:
3.3V - 28A or better
5V - 30A or better
12V - 18A or better
Watch out!! Cheap PSU's like Q-Tec come nowhere near these figures!!
Do NOT trust the 300W or 400W rating on them!!!
Q-Tec is about the worst of them all!!
Metalclips
Stand-off's left between the board and the case, take the board out and check for too many of those metal-clips, they can shorten circuits and cause al sorts of problems (most of the time audio problems)
RAM
Ram problems, don't try to run with PC100 (SDram boards) when you have a 133FSB CPU, get PC133 ram of decend quality.
In any case, don't use cheap quality ram (Crucial seems decend, but give's a lot of problems, I consider these cheap quality too :P ), replace the ram with another brand to see if it fixes it....
DDR ram speeds:
Duron upto 1300/Athlon-B =100FSB=PC-1600=DDR200
Duron from 1400 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon-C/XP upto 2600 =133FSB=PC-2100=DDR266
Athlon XP D-type and above =166FSB=PC-2700=DDR333
Athlon XP E-type and above =200FSB=PC-3200=DDR400
Higher DDR speeds are only a must if you try to overclock, they have no speed gain if run at the correct speed. You may use faster ram on a slower system, the speeds given are what is needed minimum.
Perform RAM test tools, ie http://www.memtest.org if you suspect RAM is faulty, such as BSOD or data corruption. [added by Maesus]
Try your system allway's with 1 stick of ram, adding more sticks can give all the trouble too.
Some sticks just won't work in pair and a lot fail when you put 3 or more in the system.
When you want to use 3 sticks, make very sure you use the MSI tested ones, they are your best chance that they work without problems.
If still nothing, try to seat the ram in another slot, sometimes they work better in another slot.
Thanks boost
Or rise the Ram voltage a little, be carefull doing this!
Sometimes this works when you have a lot of ram in there.
BIOS
BIOS settings not right, clear the CMos and start with the default settings, if it works, try setting ONLY the FSB to 133 if needed, nothing more.....
And go further from there......
Clearing CMos
When you clear the CMos, make sure that all power is cut from the system.
This is done by takeing the wall-plug out or use the switch on the powersupply to turn it off.
On most boards, as far as I know all MSI boards, you must set the JBat1 to position 2-3 (clear position) for about 10 seconds, then set it back to 1-2 (keep data position)
After this your CMos should be cleared and you can turn the system back on.
In some rare cases it's needed to take the battery out too for a minute or so.
It can happen that the system will prompt you to set the BIOS again, go into the BIOS and set everything you need, then save the settings.
Thanks fguevara.
Harddisks
Harddisk is giving problems, most of the time with WD drive's, they are jumpered somewhat strange compared to others:
No jumper = Stand-Alone no other drive attached to the cable.
Jumper master = if you have a slave drive attached
Jumper slave = when it's slave to another drive
Harddisk is doing weird things:
Make sure you have connected the blue connector to the board, and don't let the other end of the cable unused, make sure there is a device connected to it.
The middle connector can be left into the air without problems if not needed.
IBM harddisks seem to fail a lot, try Drive-Fitness-Test on it, see if it has problems.
Click here for DFT
Other brand drives can have problems too, make sure they are ok, as harddisk failure can cause all sorts of problems.
Allway's be sure your harddisk is in tip-top shape, if not, replace it and try another to verify.
For more information read this: Click here.
To know what harddisks your motherboard support, use this link.
To enable harddisk over 137GB in Win2000 edit this registry key:
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\Atapi\Parameters]
"EnableBigLba"=dword:00000001
The KT4 raid boards only support 1 harddisk on IDE3, the rest must be SATA drive's!!
Harddisk/power led not functioning - thanks to Tweetyoost
If your HD led or power led not work try to switch(wrong + or - side) the connectors on the motherboard.
leds will work only when + or - is correct
Thanks Tweetyoost.
Floppy drive's
If your floppy drive doesn't work or the led stay's on all the time.
Make sure the floppy is set correctly in the BIOS, as the BIOS doesn't autodetect a floppy drive.
Check the cable, make sure the twist in the cable is at the floppy-drive side.
If the light stay's on, flip the connector at the floppy-drive arround.
Sometimes it happens that even after all this, they still don't work, try with another drive from another brand.
Not able to enter the BIOS or lockup
When you try to enter the BIOS it won't go in there or
lockup, but your system is running fine.
This symtom can happen when your CPU-Cooler is giving spikes on the coolerwire.
Try with another brand of cooler to test if it solves it.
Keyboard and optical mouse lights stay on after power off[/U]
Some motherboards have a jumper called JKBV1, this jumper is located (mostly) near the keyboard connector, put it in the other position.
If your board doesn't have the jumper, try to find the following BIOS settings and turn them off:
resume on KBC
resume on PS/2
resume by alarm
USB ports not working[/U]
Check in the BIOS if the ports are enabled.
USB2.0 ports are supported in Win2000+SP3 and XP+SP1, just let the OS reinstall the ports and they should work.
Thanks Stygge
Replacing parts and the system won't boot after
It's never a good idea to replace stuff like CPU and ram without taking the board out of the case.
But if you still like to do so, please support the board, because if you don't you might bent the board a little and cause other components to make bad contact.
Allways support the board when you replace stuff, no matter what!
Also make sure your system can take the replacement, it could happen for example that your powersupply can't handle your changed videocard from GF2MX to GF4Ti4600.
Test all the parts in another system
Make sure that the new part is in good working order in the first place (in particular: videocard, CPU, memory): try it in another system, or have it demonstrated by the one you bought it from if possible.
Testing might also give you a clue on what is actually wrong in your own system.
Thanks HansH.
Checking the powersupply
Don't do this if you don't know what you are doing!
Disconnect the powersupply.
Orientate the 20pin Powerconnector with the clip up.
Locate pin 4 and pin 8 top row, mostly green and black wire.
Use a wire to short them (or better a 12V test lamp).
Now connect the power and the fan inside the powersupply should start spinning.
If it doesn't your powersupply maybe dead.
Thanks HansH.
KT4 users
Please read the Un-Official KT4 guide if you have CRC errors or strange crashes.
These can be BIOS problems.
In any case !!!Only flash if the system is stable!!!
Set default-settings and FSB100 to make it stable first!!!
Motherboards making a Siren-sound
If your board is making the sound of a firetruck, BEEP-BOOP-BEEP-BOOP...
Check the folowing:
1. CPU too hot
2. chassis intrusion was enabled in the BIOS
3. PSU is below min/max allowable value
Stutter in audio
Remove your antivirus software.
We have heard a few cases where the stuttering was created by badly behaving antivirus software.
Disable cpu halt command if it's in the BIOS (Thanks Pascal16)
Windows
Windows2000/XP won't run stable, try to disable APIC and install again....
Not all drivers/devices like the APIC.
Windows2000/XP won't install USB2.0, install the latest servicepak (SP3 Win2000 or SP1 WinXP).
Let Windows rediscover the USB ports, they should work now.
If you have driver or other problems and don't know what to do anymore but Windows does function without crashing, read this: Click here.
Audio [added by Maesus, 20/2/2003]
Can't stream AC3 via SPDIF to external DD decoder? try this ac3filter [info provided by Manfred ]
Lan not working 100MBit
You could try this patch, seems to work on some boards.
The download-link is at the bottom of this post.
I think I have about covered all most commen problems....
Check those first before you ask us, as it's not fun to type the same over and over again.... :(
Another good link for trouble shooting is here: Link
If you have more issues that can solve problems, please write your thing below......
I will insert your comments in this guide, with credits, offcourse 8)
!!I will delete any attempt for discussion or problem report below this message.....!!
Please report back, in another thread, if your problem was solved and how you did it, this will help others a great deal.
It's only ment to help people as a guide to where the problem can be, start a new thread if this guide didn't solve your problem and you need more help!
This thread is only for the experts to guide you into a solution :]Dude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true. -
How to read this kind of array from a txt file?
I have been trying to read this file given below.
Please have a look at 4th line, there is a gap between 89 and 32.
I want to read a gap as a "0" value, and convert all values to integer.
I have been using split function, but I still don't know how to figure the gap problem.
Please help me, thanks.
1 60 72 88 41 58
2 50 45 37 86 13
3 44 41 99 54 24
4 12 89 32 89
5 48 97 25 85 55
6 22 46 34 90 98
7 75 85 5 1
8 86 23 39 69 52
9 42 18 75 13 72
10 24 77 27 18 30
11 34 42 5 12
12 31 87 47 75 8
13 19 16 74 55 77
14 26 57 5 63 81
15 51 7 95 100 8
16 33 93 82 85 72
17 55 21 49 25 3
18 15 29 33 18 61
19 33 42 64 66 63
20 51 36 97 39 19
21 51 60 32 25 51
22 88 34 29 76 10
23 37 93 9 38 100
-------------------------------------------scan each line with the following code
it adds each line to a new array
//scan file
try {
Scanner Filescan = new Scanner(new File("directory"));
while (Filescan.hasNextLine()) {
Array.add(Filescan.nextLine());
catch (Exception e)
System.out.println (" File has not been found");
} -
Anyone having problems 875 XP RAID install READ THIS!
I was having problems installing windows XP on my new 875P Neo FIS2R Board using a 2 disk SATA RAID 0 Array. A breif run down on my system:
MSI 875P Neo FIS2R
P4 3.0 800MHz
1.0 GB DDR400
2x Segate SATA 120GB
PNY QuadroFX 1000 AGPx8
Swiftech H20-8500PV Watercooling sys.
and misc. other crap
So, I was all ready to install XP, even got as far as the first reboot after formating and copying files, when after I rebooted I got an error mess. -
"Windows could not start because of a computer hardware disk configuration problem.
Could not read from selected boot disk. Check boot path and disk hardware.
Please check the Windows documentation about hardware disk configuration and your hardware reference manuals for additional information."
After trying numerous configurations of the HDD's and BIOS I came to the conclusion that was not the prob. After loading the XP recovery console i could see that the files were successfully copied to the Striped RAID 0 Array i had set up. Opening up the boot.ini file in the root of c:\ I saw this:
[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(1)partition(1)\WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(1)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Professional" /fastdetect
Now, having had to trouble shoot multi-boot systems i knew a little about the boot.ini file. The "rdisk(x)" field was troubling me because it points the computer to the physical disk with the os on it, and it said rdisk(1) which actually refers to the 2nd disk not the first. So I changed the boot.ini to read:
[boot loader]
timeout=30
default=multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS
[operating systems]
multi(0)disk(0)rdisk(0)partition(1)\WINDOWS="Microsoft Windows XP Professional" /fastdetect
* note i changed the rdisk field to "rdisk(0)"
Mind you that I had to first install XP to an IDE drive to be able to access the boot.ini file on the RAID Array unless you can do it in the recovery console, I was unable to. Also, you must remove the "read only" attribute on the boot.ini file to be able to save it; don't forget to change it back.
After I changed the boot.ini I shutdown the comp. and disconnected the IDE drive I had used to access the RAID Array and rebooted. Sure enough, the damn thing booted right up and continued the install!!! Woot!
Anyway, I don't exactly know where the problem is generated but this is a work around that worked for me. I know at least 6 people have posted here w/similar problems so i thought that this might help.bumpidy bump bump
-
Just a heads up for my fellow Mac users.
"How do I defrag my mac?"
"You don't need to, ever. It does it automatically."
"But it's running really slowly..."
"Repair permissions or something. Defragging is not necessary on a mac."
Techtool pro is now defragmenting my mac. Looks like the job's going to take about 4 hours. I thought I'd give everyone the truth about this while waiting (on a different computer obviously)
The truth is, Apple's defragmenting system ***** BALLS. It has two massive, massive flaws which I feel people urgently need to be made aware of.
#1: It only defragments files up to 20mb. If you're a movie producer, a songwriter, a photographer, or anything which involves working with many massive files, the built in defragmenting program WILL NOT HELP YOU IN THE SLIGHTEST.
#2: It only defragments FILES. Free space is ignored, which eventually causes absolutely hrrendous problems.
Let me give you an analogy here. Imagine your mac's hard drive is a bookcase with lots of books on it.
File fragmentation is when it can't find a gap in the bookcase big enough for the entire book, so it breaks the book into pieces and srotes them in different gaps.
Space fragmentation is when there are gaps all over the bookcase, instead of all the books being pushed to one side so there's a long gap elsewhere.
Apple's built in defragmenting program will only fix the first problem - and even then, it will ignore any book bigger than 20 pages long, if you have bigger books which are broken up, you're screwed.
Why is space fragmentation a problem? It's a problem because it directly LEADS TO file fragmentation. If there is a large block of free space all in one part of the disk, then an entire file can be written to it. However, if there is no single free block big enough for the file, it HAS NO CHOICE but to fragment it.
So basically you might have 5 GB free and want to save a 2GB imovie project. That's cool. But what you may not realize is, the biggest single area of free space is only say 600MB. Others are around 300 and 400. Therefore the file MUST be fragmented into all these different areas, which wouldn't be necessary if all the free space was in one area of the disk.
But apple's built in tools don't do anything about this, at least not in Tiger. PErhaps this has been fixed in later installations but I'm almost certain the same issues exist in leopard.
Your only option is to buy a defragmenting program. I know this ***** but believe me, this IS something you NEED to do if your activity on your laptop involves disk space - intensive projects. I'm using TechTool Pro which has been recommended to me as hands down the best. It has a number of other functions as well, right now I'm only using the defragmenting tools but it has others for repairing damages disk sectors and other mantainence tools. There are other programs such as iDefrag out there as well.
Why am I telling you this? I'm telling you because I experienced mind numbing frustration trying to get answers from the Apple community. Google it or ask the question yourself and you will most likely be whacked in the face with the intro to my post here - "You don't need to, it's not necessary, macs do it themselves, blah blah blah"
Even worse, Apple's own webpage on the subject is nothing short of a disaster. It basically says "You PROBABLY don't need to defragment, unless you work with large files." That's it. You'd expect it to have an extra section saying "If you DO happen to work with large files, here's what you do" but no such section exists. It basically says "You don't need to defrag most of the time, and on the rare occasions when you do, well, too bad, you're screwed."
I urge everyone to heed this or they will be tearing their hair out at how slow their mac has become and the fact that no one will offer any meaningful advice other than the standard, generic, "Repair permissions" - the Mac equivelant of "have you tried turning it off and on again".
My disk is at 99% fragmented free space. NINTEY NINE PERCENT. In other words, although I have 25GB of free space, there was not a single contiguous block on the entire machine. I had almost 5,000 fragmented files as well, mostly imovies. Defragmenting got this down to about 300.
The defrag job is taking more than 4 hours and will probably go on to take a lot longer than that. This machine has been slowly grinding to a halt over the last 3 years and now I know why.
Please don't listen to anyone. Get yourself a defragmenting folder, and email Apple to tell them it's just not good enough to give their customers half assed answers and inadequate basic maintainence tools. Mac OS X must literally be the only operating system out there where something as basic as defragmenting is not only almost impossible to get answers on, but actually costs money to fix once you DO get answers.
As customers, we should not accept this any longer. I intend to spread the above message far and wide.
I LOVE Apple. I've always been "a mac" and I always will be. This in no way a mac bashing post or a windows endorsing one. I wouldn't switch back to windows if you gave me a million euro.
But sometimes even the best developers can royally f*ck up. This is one of them.
There is no readon people should be forced to put up with this crap. Absolutely no reason at all. I've had 3 months of crappy performance with no official explanation whatsoever.
Apple if you're reading this: I love your products. I'm a loyal customer. People are more forgiving than you think, speak up, admit you dropped the ball, and DO something about it in your next updates to Lion and whichever versions of Leopard you are still actively maintaining.
There's no shame in admitting when you're wrong. The shame is in hiding behind false promises and walls of silence.
--Loyal customer, but feeling rather betrayed by all this.The old rule of thumb was to keep 10-12 GB free. Any lower than that and you will start to have trouble. I was very close to that for a long time and never had any complaints. Now, Lion "encourages" 20% free space (on my newer 250 GB drive) so I try to keep it with more than 50 GB free.
Do you still have the original memory in that machine too? The metal plate you have to remove in the battery compartment also provides access to the RAM. Your machine will take 2 GB of RAM, possibly 3. You definitely want to max that out too.
Regardless, you definitely need a new hard drive. When Apple switched to PC components, they had to take a quality hit. These 2.5" notebook hard drives are not very reliable. I'm surprised your hard drive hasn't died by now. I usually get a new hard drive with every major OS upgrade. A $ 50 investment every couple of years is no big deal.
Unfortunately, you (and I) suffer from being an early adopter in 2006. Those 32-bit machines only accept 2 GB RAM (maybe 3) and are only 32-bit so they can't be upgraded to Lion. Because of this limitation, you won't see as dramatic an improvement as you would with a 2007 machine. If you run more than a couple of applications, your hard drive is always going to have to be doing some VM work. My 2006 machine has even lost its bluetooth. I gave it to my brother. My very similar 2007 Macbook is still running great.
So, you must get a new hard drive because your old one is likely on death's door. If you don't have at least 2 GB - get it. If you can't afford a new machine, you might want to consider an SSD. That might help mitigate your RAM limitations. You can spend from $ 100 to $ 350 and get a dramatic speed improvement. -
Access to SATA RAID-5 array without an MSI motherboard?
I have (had) an MSI K8N Diamoond Plus motherboard, and used it to create a bootable SATA RAID-5 array of three 300Gb Western Digital disks. Two years later, the motherboard developed a serious problem with the memory access, and now it won't POST beyond the memory initialization. So it's fried. I've tried multiple memory modules in multiple configs, and nothing helps.
OK, no problem, new motherboard and I'm good to go. Only this isn't an MSI motherboard, and it's an Intel chipset. So, the RAID array isn't recognized.
Are there any software tools that can reconstruct the RAID array when running on a non-nvidia chipset motherboard? Is there any other solution besides buy a new MSI motherboard?
And, if I have to get a new MSI motherboard to solve this, what's the cheapest currently available motherboard that would be compatible with the RAID established on the original K8N Diamond Plus?Quote from: cameradv on 23-January-08, 00:07:27
Well, I'm not 100% sure which controller was doing the RAID. I'm thinking the SIL, but I beleive it was nvidia software drivers in windows that re-constructed the RAID-5 once when I replaced a drive. Can you buy a standalone nVidia RAID controller, anyway?
You were using Nvidia RAID, with Silicon can't do RAID5. -
I am working with a network analyzer. I have arrays made of 5 columns the first consisting of an integer and the next four consisting of complex numbers. I am converting the array into a spreadsheet string and then saving the file using the write characters to a file VI. That seems to work well as when I open the file in Excel all the data is there. However when I try to reverse the process, open file and convert back to array, I loose some of the data. Specifically the imaginary parts of my complex numbers are all going to zero. I have narrowed down the problem to be in the conversion from spreadsheet string to array and vice versa. I
think the problem may be with the 'format' input to the VI. I do not have an adequate resource for this so I am not sure what to put in to accomplish my task. Any takers?Hi Biz
I don't think there is a direct way of converting a complex number to a
string, so when you convert the array to a spreadsheet string, the
numbers would be converted to real data.
However, you could try separating the real and imaginary parts using the
"Numeric: Complex to Re/Im" function, and then store these - either in
separate files or in adjacent columns/rows in the same file. Then, when
you read in the data again, use the "Numeric: Re/Im to Complex" function
to put the two "halves" together.
If you actually want Excel to interpret the numbers as imaginary, then
you'll probably want to create a string for each complex number of the
form "Re + Im*i" (after separating the Re and Im parts), by using
"String:Format into String" with 2 numeric inputs and the format string
"%f+%fi".
Reading the data back into Labview then would require splitting the
string into the 2 pieces by using "Stringcan from String" with 2
numeric outputs (smae precision as original numbers specified by the 2
Default Value inputs) and the same format string "%f+%fi", and then using
the above-mentioned "Numeric: Re/Im to Complex" function. It worked for
me, so if you can't follow what I am describing, send me an email and I
can email you what I did (LV 5.1.1).
Paul
Biz wrote:
> Having trouble converting array to spreadsheet string, storing the
> file and coverting back to array with complex numbers
>
> I am working with a network analyzer. I have arrays made of 5 columns
> the first consisting of an integer and the next four consisting of
> complex numbers. I am converting the array into a spreadsheet string
> and then saving the file using the write characters to a file VI. That
> seems to work well as when I open the file in Excel all the data is
> there. However when I try to reverse the process, open file and
> convert back to array, I loose some of the data. Specifically the
> imaginary parts of my complex numbers are all going to zero. I have
> narrowed down the problem to be in the conversion from spreadsheet
> string to array and vice versa. I think the problem may be with the
> 'format' input to the VI. I do not have an adequate resource for this
> so I am not sure what to put in to accomplish my task. Any takers?
Research Assistant
School of Physiotherapy, Curtin University of Technology
Selby Street, Shenton Park, Western Australia, Australia. 6008
email: [email protected]
Tel. +61 8 9266 4657 Fax. +61 8 9266 3699
"Everyone who calls on the name of the Lord will be saved." Romans 10:12
"For all have sinned and fall short of the glory of God, and are
justified freely by his grace through the redemption that came by Christ
Jesus." Romans 3:23-4 -
APPLE/DEVS Read this! Windows 7 CAN'T detect the iPhone 5s but iTunes CAN detect it! WEIRD, huh?!..
just a summary...
i have a iphone 3G which i have been using for a long time and now i got an iphone 5s.. troubleshooting this kind of stuff is not new to me from computers to smartphones.. the internet has a vast majority of information and all you need to do is type in the right "KEYWORD".. i'm that kind of guy that looks for the answer before i try to look on it on my own.. i'm a DIY kind of guy as long as there is an instruction on how to do it..
now, back to the topic..
so i was trying to copy some of my pictures on my iphone 5s to my PC for backup purposes and to see the quality of the images but the portable device doesn't show up unlike my iphone 3G which is f***ing WEIRD.. been tinkering with this over the past 5 days since i have nothing to do and testing the new features of this phone but to no avail.. searched all over the internet but still none..
so last night, i was really determined since i can't sleep and also connected my iphone 3G to my PC while the iphone 5s is connected.. so here is what shows up on my devices and printers and device manager..
i can totally see the pics on my iphone 3G but not on my iphone 5s.. totally amazing.. good job apple!
the picture under devices shows my iphone 3G and the other 2 on unspecified is my iphone 5s.. the iPhone under there is being used as my source of internet since this is tethered so i can have access and post this in here so that APPLE will know how f***ed up their SOFTWARE is is..
so i downloaded itunes a couple of times, and i can't remember how many already, i think 5 times or more and then uninstalled all apple softwares (itunes, apple application support, apple mobile device support and etc as long as there is apple in it) and then reinstalled itunes but still none..
so i went on device manager removed my iphone 3G and the only one that would show there is the Apple Mobile Device USB driver under USB controllers..
and then i uninstalled the driver, looked for the driver myself by just it doesn't show up in here where you are directed to look for the driver and oh im using 64 bit just so everyone knows and i already found out that my system is using the usbaapl64.sys file in windows>system32>drivers..
so last night i installed, reinstalled itunes and then suddenly my drive D: was gone and i received an error or a "!" on my drive and my drive is not being detected.
Error: windows cannot start this hardware device because its configuration information (in the registry) is incomplete or damage. (code 19).
i unstalled the driver in device manager and then scan hardware changes, updated the driver automatically and manually and it is saying that i have the latest hardware but i can't use my DVD drive with the error on it..
so today i searched for that e-fing error and found this http://pcsupport.about.com/od/findbyerrormessage/a/code-19-error.htm
"4. Uninstall Apple iTunes. While that may sound a little drastic, iTunes is the cause of enough Code 19 errors to make it into this troubleshooting.
If removing iTunes works, you might try installing it again from scratch, which doesn't always reintroduce the problem. See How to Properly Reinstall a Software Program for general advice."
so i then uninstalled my itunes, uninstalled my driver and then updated it and "walla!". i can see my DVD drive again. i am using iTunes64Setup v12.0.1.26 just so everyone knows and this setup can detect both my iphones and my iphone 5s is using the latest version which is iOS 8.1.2..
after reinstallation of itunes my DVD drive can be seen and just noticed how APPLE SOFTWARES are so ****** up.. CAUSING A LOT OF TROUBLE AND DAMAGES..
so going back to the topic..
i was able to find a way (AFTER HOW MANY HOURS of TROUBLESHOOTING) on how my iphone 5s was able to detect the portable device or should i say the images on my iphone 5s where the autoplay pops up and everything..
so i went on device manager, uninstalled apple mobile device USB driver, disconnected my iphone 5s, UNLOCKED my iphone 5s, connected it to my PC, clicked on TRUST this PC, on my PC the sound for a USB being connected sounded, and at the bottom right, automatically installed the drivers and then the autoplay popped up with the matching PORTABLE DEVICES on COMPUTER where i can browse the internal storage and the pictures..
so now i opened iTunes and BOOOM!
iTunes doesn't detect my iphone 5s but i can browse on the images on my phone..
so again i went to device manager, uninstalled the driver for apple iphone under portable devices, scanned for hardware changes, updated the driver manually by selecting drive C: so it would automatically find the correct drive..
so now, my iphone can be detected by itunes but not on my COMPUTER.. see how ****** UP this is?!.. JEEEEEEEEEZ!!
Now i finally found the SOLUTION on how to do this and vice versa.. UNTIL APPLE decides to FIX their SOFTWARE/DRIVER issues..
if you want to scan or browse the images on your iphone 5s on your computer all you need to do is do this:
[for those who don't know how to reach this part, here is a GUIDE on how to open this is: click on the device > click on update driver software > browse my computer for driver software > let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer]
and then you will see the screen below
click on MTP USB Device and then click on Next, after it finishes installing the drivers, your PC will automatically detect a new portable device but in order for you to access the images you need to go back on your phone, unlock it if it lock automatically and then click on "TRUST" and then you can now see the images..
BUT the problem here is that your iPhone can't be detected on iTunes...
now, if you want to go back to where your phone can be detected on itunes, just follow these steps:
click on apple mobile device USB driver, click on Next and then wait for your computer to finish the installation and then you will hear the beeping sound. check your phone, unlock it, then click on "TRUST", and then go to iTunes and you will now see your iPhone there but not on your PC where you can browse for the images..
SEE HOW THIS DRIVERS are so ****** up.. i wish i hadn't started using this ****** UP OS with all the BUGS and GLITCHES.. JEEEZ! and to think, these DEVICES are not CHEAP compared to Android devices on the market.. it's just because of how these people go with the trend that they purchase these kind of stuff and the only thing they use it for is calling or texting.. i, for once use this not for calling or texting but also for the apps that it has like the games, ebooks and etc when im bored..
i HOPE the Apple DEVS read this and find the solution on the drivers which is so ****** UP and so LAME!!
PS: i hope a lot of people who are having the same issue as what i had find this and help them with their concern even though this is not a permanent solution.. it is just a work around for folks that are looking for answers and solution.
Have a Great Day Folks and it is the start of a New Year and want to contribute something even though i don't usually posts my work around.Hi LSGZ,
If you are having issues updating or restoring your iPhone, you may find the following article helpful:
iOS: Unable to update or restore
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1808
Regards,
- Brenden -
How can I use a 1 double array for this
I would like to use one double array where I am using 2 single arrays, can this be done?
thanks
import java.text.NumberFormat;
import java.util.Locale;
class Mortgage3
public static void main(String[]argv)
//Variables
//allows for currency format
NumberFormat formatter = NumberFormat.getCurrencyInstance(Locale.US);
double prin;
double month_payments;
double monthlyinterest;
//standard integer
int months;
//array for the different interest rates
double[] interest = {0.0535,0.055,0.0575};
//array for the different terms
int[] term = {7, 15, 30};
for (int i = 0; i < 3; i++)
//values for the variables
prin = 200000; //principle amount of the mortgage
monthlyinterest = (interest[i] / 12); //monthly interest
months = (term[i] * 12); //total amount of months in the 30 yr term
//monthly payment calculation
month_payments = (prin * monthlyinterest) / (1-Math.pow(1 + monthlyinterest, - months));
System.out.println("\n\n\t For a loan amount of " + formatter.format(prin));
System.out.println("\t With an annual interest rate of " +interest[i] * 100+ "%,");
System.out.println("\t your payments will be " +formatter.format(month_payments)+ " per month");
System.out.println("\t for a term of "+term[i]+ " years or " +months+" months.");
}I would like to use one double array where I am using 2 single arrays, can this be done?It can, but why not write a Rate class or other data structure more suited to the purpose?
-
Error : There was a problem reading this document (15)
Hi All,
I created a PDF using a code which I had. But when I open in Adobe reader, I am getting this message "there was a problem reading this document (15)". If I do control+Enter for this message, I get the message "Expected an array object". Can anyone please help me in understanding what in the PDF file has one wrong. I opened the PDF in binary editor and everything seems to be fine for me. I have uploaded the PDF. Link is
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/35847649/out.pdf
Thanks,
ShamCan you guys please tell me when reader is expected to give this error message?
"There was a problem reading this document (15)"
Thanks,
Sham -
Read this if you can't hear callers or voicemail o...
If you can no longer hear callers, cannot hear your voicemail, and are tearing your hair out trying to get any help from the obvious sources (your service provider, Nokia, your local store) - do not panic.
Call 121, as if you are making a vm call. While it is connecting, adjust the volume control button on the right of the phone. You will find that this volume control button operates on a 1-10 scale and is completely different from the one that is normally adjustable from the main screen, which operates on a 1-30 scale. Hopefully you will start to hear the recorded voice and all will be well.
This is not mentioned anywhere in the handbook or any of the online resources. I eventually found a clue via a different help site - but couldn't find where the 2nd volume control was. Thank goodness I eventually stumbled upon it by accident.
I know I am not the only one to have lost connection with a caller half-way through a conversation. It must be a design fault of some sort. I am just relieved that I did not follow the Nokia diagnostics advice to reset my phone to factory settings (after backing up etc etc), or pay out vast ££s for the privilege of sending off my phone for a non-existent repair.
I am not techy - but I am posting this in the hope that it will save others the frustration, expense and time I have wasted over the past 3 days trying to get any sense out of Vodafone and Nokia. (I am sorry if that breaches some form of discussion board protocol - but it is a fact.)
If anyone from Nokia is reading this will you PLEASE update your handbooks to include this information, and take account of it within your online diagnostics page, which told me to restore factory settings. (Fortunately I have no idea how to backup data on my phone, and the advice didn't tell me either.)
If anyone from Vodafone is reading this, will you PLEASE train your sales staff and helpdesk staff to understand this problem.
Feeling calmer now ... off to make a large mug of coffee.This is normal an also the same with other phone brands and OS. Even on android and IOS the call volume is different from the general volume of the phone. If you have a non-lumia nokia phone, it is also the same.
-
Having trouble installing Adobe Reader 8, know it's outdated, job requires it. System is Windows 7
having trouble installing Adobe Reader 8, know it's outdated, job requires it. System is Windows 7 Home Premium. Thank you.
You may see if there are solutions in this old thread: http://forums.adobe.com/message/3063830
Although that combination isn't supported, many people have made it work.
Why would a job require Reader 8? All older files are compatible with newer versions. Or at least they should be. -
Hi-
I got a new PC laptop, retrieved all old HD contents from my external HD, installed LR 5.6 (5.4 on previous PC) and when I tried to open up my old Lightroom catalog it has an error saying "Lightroom has encountered problems reading this photo. You will not be able to make adjustments to this photo". I tried to open the catalog straight from my external HD with the same error message. I've read about four billion forum threads to try to figure it out- files do not seem to be missing as most threads indicate. The other threads suggest there is a corruption with the file, but I don't THINK that is the case. Are there any other suggestions? If the file is corrupted, how do I find out for sure? Have I lost all my edits??
Thanks for your help and time!
sarahHi-
I got a new PC laptop, retrieved all old HD contents from my external HD, installed LR 5.6 (5.4 on previous PC) and when I tried to open up my old Lightroom catalog it has an error saying "Lightroom has encountered problems reading this photo. You will not be able to make adjustments to this photo". I tried to open the catalog straight from my external HD with the same error message. I've read about four billion forum threads to try to figure it out- files do not seem to be missing as most threads indicate. The other threads suggest there is a corruption with the file, but I don't THINK that is the case. Are there any other suggestions? If the file is corrupted, how do I find out for sure? Have I lost all my edits??
Thanks for your help and time!
sarah -
What's the best way for reading this binary file?
I've written a program that acquires data from a DAQmx card and writes it on a binary file (attached file and picture). The data that I'm acquiring comes from 8 channels, at 2.5MS/s for, at least, 5 seconds. What's the best way of reading this binary file, knowing that:
-I'll need it also on graphics (only after acquiring)
-I also need to see these values and use them later in Matlab.
I've tried the "Array to Spreadsheet String", but LabView goes out of memory (even if I don't use all of the 8 channels, but only 1).
LabView 8.6
Solved!
Go to Solution.
Attachments:
AcquireWrite02.vi 15 KB
myvi.jpg 55 KBBut my real problem, at least now, is how can I divide the information to get not only one graphic but eight?
I can read the file, but I get this (with only two channels):
So what I tried was, using a for loop, saving 250 elements in different arrays and then writing it to the .txt file. But it doesn't come right... I used 250 because that's what I got from the graphic: at each 250 points it plots the other channel.
Am I missing something here? How should I treat the information coming from the binary file, if not the way I'm doing?
(attached are the .vi files I'm using to save in the .txt format)
(EDITED. I just saw that I was dividing my graph's data in 4 just before plotting it... so It isn't 250 but 1000 elements for each channel... Still, the problem has not been solved)
Message Edited by Danigno on 11-17-2008 08:47 AM
Attachments:
mygraph.jpg 280 KB
Read Binary File and Save as txt - 2 channels - with SetFilePosition.vi 14 KB
Read Binary File and Save as txt - with SetFilePosition_b_save2files_with_array.vi 14 KB -
READ THIS FIRST: Check out the Developer Guide, other forums and Wikis
The Portal Content Development forum is one of the most-active forums on SDN, and many, many experts read it and can answer your questions.
Before posting, please check out the following sources of information:<ul><li><b><a href=http://help.sap.com/saphelp_nw04/helpdata/en/19/4554426dd13555e10000000a1550b0/frameset.htm target="_blank">Portal Developer Guide</a> (2004) </b>and<b> <a href=http://help.sap.com/saphelp_nw2004s/helpdata/en/19/4554426dd13555e10000000a1550b0/frameset.htm target="_blank">Running an Enterprise Portal (developer guide)</a> (2004s):</b> This is THE source for information on portal APIs. All of the public APIs are documented here. </li>
<li><b><a href=https://wiki.sdn.sap.com:/wiki/display/EP>Portal Wiki</a>:</b> See below.</li>
<li><b>This Forum:</b> Someone probably has already asked your question. Before adding another post, check if you can find a similar post that has sufficient information to help you. </li></ul>
<h3>Other forums</h3>
<li>Employee self service questions: https://forums.sdn.sap.com/forum.jspa?forumID=267</li>
<li>Visual Composer questions: https://forums.sdn.sap.com/forum.jspa?forumID=58</li>
<li>Web Dynpro for Java questions: https://forums.sdn.sap.com/forum.jspa?forumID=52</li>
<h3>More on Wikis</h3>The recently announced Wiki functions of SDN will, over time, be a great start for getting information about portal development and implementation...
The main wiki portal page is <a href="https://wiki.sdn.sap.com:/wiki/display/HOME/Portal">here</a>.
Please read this before asking a question in the forum - believe me, there are not many new questions being asked!
There is quite a bit of repetition in forum questions, and maybe if people are directed to the wiki page as a first step, it may make it easier to watch this forum.
The Wiki concept is all about sharing within a community, so feel free to modify the content - more accurately 'our' content - and maybe start some other pages, such as one about modifying logon pages - a fairly consistent topic in this forum
Edited by: Michael Nicholls on Feb 18, 2009 9:48 AM
Edited by: Michael Nicholls on Feb 18, 2009 9:49 AMDude thank-you for your wonder detailed knowldge, I have descovered that lets say xp 1700 in a ultra 2 can only handle at the most 143fsb mult at 12.
Given the settings" irq's are a major",part of directing traffic and power? example:
Sound blaster Live , uses two irq's most common at"Auto" is, irq 10, or 5, and Sound blaster 16 emulation usually takes irq 5,. I have found that the sound card in slot3 works great , but to do this I had to change the Bio's and assign slot 3 irq 7 . and make sure printer port has share irq enabled
Problems that accure with bad traffic are like this. Start a dedicated server. minimize than start your game?":censored: no sound what could be wrong"? Shoot another problem Connection problem?. The computer nerd is getting trouble over the ordeal. ANSWER! IRQ can fix the problem, Study the irq and make changes as you go. "what would it be like with no stop signs,,,that is the same as a irq. with the same knowldge this topic brings IRQ need to be clearly understood.
I can honestly say my system is error free and running like a dream.
xp 2500 barton 333
creative sound 5.1gamers.
512 mb kingston ram 400 mhz
boadband either onboard.
MSI 5700 128 mb ddr
Setting are:
163 fsb
mult of 11
ddr 333
video memory clock down to 450mhz
3d clock to 390mhz
The delta is a smooth running board also I want to mention to the person with crackling sounds, change the irq like I did, that fix the problem and the power is totaly too good to be true. -
Powerbook Operates Only When Plugged In? Battery Seems Dead? READ THIS
I posted this several days ago for Powebook G4 17'. I thought this could help others...
I just saved several hundred $$$$, thanks to another Apple customer who had posted this tip somewhere in Discussions.
My Powerbook suddenly crashed a couple of days ago, due do a faulty Apple Firewire cable. It would not immediately start, and my first thought was that the logic board was fried. Remembering that I should try to set the PRAM and then possibly the PMU, but forgetting what keys to press, I frantically searched for my users manual. 15 minutes later, I found it, I followed the instructions, and my PB successfully booted. My troubles were far from over. I soon realized that the battery now appeared to be completely drained. The PB would only work with the power cable plugged in, despite the battery showing 98% charged. When the cable was removed or wiggled, the computer would promptly shut down. I reset the PRAM and PMU several times, reset permissions, cleaned caches, checked preference files and other regular maintenance procedures.... No improvement. I then ran the hardware test that's on my original PB software disk. Everything, including the logic board, tested fine. I then used TechTool Deluxe, and everything tested OK as well. I reset the PRAM, PMU again, but the Powerbook still would not operate on battery power only.
Yesterday, somewhere on this discussion board, I read this tip:
With the battery still in, start up the computer, log in if necessary, and get to your desktop. Close the lid so the PB goes to sleep and walk away. Don't touch it for at least 3 hours. Open the lid so it wakes from sleep, then unplug the power cord.
IT WORKED! I was completely shocked.
I've been using my Powerbook on battery power for more than an hour. The menu bar shows the current battery charge as 40%. I thought it may be a good idea to recalibrate the battery, so I'm letting the battery drain completely.
I'd like to thank the kind person who posted this suggestion. You saved me a few hundred bucks, and I appreciate it.
PowerBook G4 17 Mac OS X (10.4.8)Power Issues Galore!! I purchased (against my better judgement) an overpriced Powerbook G4 in March 2005 (when Apple claimed that the G4 processor was "faster than Intel", which is the exactly the opposite of what they claim now that they use Intel) and alas, recently purchased an iMac for same college student who is quite the Apple fan, and basically required to have Apple products due to college policies and curriculum. The Powerbook power supply has been a constant problem, which we temporarily resolved by purchasing 3rd party products. Now the plug on the unit itself is loose! Could have bought 4 PC laptops for purchase price of the Powerbook! Time will tell about the iMac.
My opinion, based on personal experiences, is that Apple fans are delusional about the quality of Apple products. Given this, since I have spent a lot of money purchasing Apples, I guess I am a little confused myself!!
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