Shadows/ dark streaks on my 23"

My 23" Cinema Display is out of warranty but has a dark streak down the left side of the screen. It's just annoying and looks 'dirty"
Does anyone know if this can be 'repaired'? Or do I need a new display?

I had the same problem but my AppleCare Protection Plan was still in effect. I took it to the Genius Bar and they sent it out for repair. A week later it came back as good as new. Apparently they had replaced the LCD panel within the unit since it was my still old frame.

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IPhoto imported from iPhone has dark streaks

When I attach my iPhone and iPhoto launches and imports the photos, they all have dark streaks, as shown in the examples below. The photo is not damaged when I e-mail it from the iPhone. Any ideas?
EMAILED PHOTO /___sbsstatic___/migration-images/573/5733046-1.jpg
IMPORTED PHOTO /___sbsstatic___/migration-images/573/5733046-2.jpg
Thanks!
dON.

Wow, no idea what's going on there. Here's another way to import the camera photos to your Mac:
1) Download the iPhoneDrive demo.
2) Choose "Advanced Mode" from the iPhoneDrive preferences.
3) You will see your photos in the "DCIM" folder. You should be able to drag them right out.
It would be interesting to know if this also results in streaks.

Please help! Parametric Shadow Split adjustment

Hello! Need your help !!!
I have an exif info of picture that was edited in Lightroom.
So i can see all parameters there and aslo i can adjust them at other photo in Lightroom. But there are few parameters that i can not see/find in lightroom:
Parametric Shadow Split 25
Parametric Midtone Split 50
Parametric Highlight Split 76
Where i can ajust that parameters in Lighroom ?
Thank you! p.s. sorry for my english.

those are the parametric curve adjustment split points, you edit them by dragging the small arrows that divide shadows, darks, lights, highlights in the curve graph ( parametric, not point, of course..)

Went snorkeling... phone was dried, disassembled and still gets calls and txts but screen does not turn on... HELP??

Hey Guys,
So my phone was my snorkeling buddy last week for a few minutes... I wasn't out in the water for longer than like 5ish minutes. It is a Verizon 32gb iPhone 4. I've had a few problems with it before as the previous owner dropped it in some water which has not only fried both the wifi and bluetooth, but also caused the home button to work sporadically and the LED flash to stay on like a 1/3 of its power 24/7 even if the phone dies...
Anyways,
about half an hour later of discovering 4 ft of water the phone was stuck in white rice (had to go on a rice hunt) and dried for several hours before I soaked and drowned it again in fresh water to try to get the salt out... One omen that I saw was that the eternal flashlight was finally, off.. after this, I stuck it back in rice for another day and a half and then stuck it on my ihome... the apple icon flickered and then went away. I plugged it in a few more times and finally got to the lock screen and started to hear txts and alerts come in. however, the screen was unresponsive and i couldn't unlock it. not sure if it was just me but each time i plugged it in to try to get to the lock screen, the screen itself went from ok condition to having dark streaks diagonally across the screen. After this I stuck it back in the bag of rice before finishing off by letting it sit in the hot desert sun for a few hours..
Several days after this the phone was taken apart and there appeared to be little to no moisture. however, there was some rust. a newer battery was popped in and the phone itself was able to receive txts and calls (you can call it and swipe the bottom of the black screen to answer and talk through it).
is there anything i can do to fix the black screen or am I doomed to get another phone and loose all my pics and videos?????????? as i haven't backed up the media...
Thanks

Apple won't touch it. It was opened by an unauthorized party. It is not eligible for an out of warranty replacement. Your only option is to buy a new phone.
Apple does not sell iPhone parts at all. If you want to take your chances with a 3rd party repair service or try to fix it yourself, the only parts available are counterfeit parts, stolen parts, or salvaged parts.

Are there any connection settings for using rtsp:...

In my effort to get access in 'YouTube" steaming videos, I tried to find the scope available in Nokia 3110C handset. After going through the Menu icons, I identified one Menu Item in the path : MAIN MANU>MEDIA>MEDIA PLAYER>GO TO ADDRESS. It is...rtsp://. The help message states ...'Lets you manually enter Web Address...'. I entered : ' rtsp//m.youtube.com. The response was a Note which reads - Check Connection Settings... Again I followed the above path : MAIN MANU>MEDIA>MEDIA PLAYER>STREAM SETT. I click the Stream Settings. The nesponsing note : 'No Settings found. Contact your Service Provider'. So, from the above discussion the net learning I got is I must have the Stream Settings to get YouTube going in my Set. My querry is : Whare those settings and what is the source in getting those settings ? I understood the rtsp (Real Time Stream Protocol) is more versatile than HTTP and MMS in getting Streaming data (numerical, photograph/radio). Please suggest.

I experienced same problem with my 3110c handset. At first the STREAMING SETT was shadowed dark with a restriction to get access there. Later I got contact with BSNL (my SP). After downloading the settings I discovered that the shadowy patch over Streaming Sett. has gone. It now shows an entry ..."bsnlstream."
So far an attempt was made to activate the Youtube, a message reminds me that the software of 3110C is not supporting such application.

IMac Display failing after 1 year of average use.

I have a mid 2011 27" iMac (the one with thunderbolt) and the display is starting to fail after 1 year of average use (an hour of use every day on average). The display is now much dimmer on the left half of the display (the GPU sits underneath that portion) and also flickers the whole display now and then to a lower brightness.
I am about 45 days out of warranty and basically will have to cough up $500 to have it fixed by Apple. My questions are... Has anyone else ever had this happen to them? The genius bar employee thought that it was something he has seen happen to displays when exposed to heat over long periods of time. So basically playing starcraft 2 and doing video encoding killed my display if you believe that to be the cause.
Are there any conditions in which apple would recognize this as a manufacturing defect and fix it free of charge? Otherwise it looks like im writing a check for $500 next week.

Today a dark streak showed up on my display right in the middle. It is shaped like a zebra stripe but is dark grey and wont go away.
I too have a mid 2011 27" 3.4GHz i7 iMac with a 2GB Graphics card . Im about 50 days out of warranty.
Seems like its perfect coincidence for apple that 50 days after my warranty runs out, the most expensive thing to repair breaks.
After doing some research it seems like there is a lot of people with this model experiencing this problem.
Pretty sad that my 2005 iMac is holding up better than my brand new iMac.
Been saving up for it for like 4 years and I dont have the money to repair it.
I tried everything, I knew none of the stuff i tried would work but i still tried resetting the PRAM repairing disk permissions all that good stuff. I even have an air purifer/dehumidifier in my room so i dont know what caused it.
I didnt think i needed applcare because ive had my other imac since 2005 without a hiccup.
Ive rendered out 3d animations using the cpu at 100% for days and it still runs fine.
Havent even used my new imac for anything that would put stress on it.
What i do notice is that it runs hot all the time. ever since I got it. Sometimes just doing basic stuff such as browsing safari it can get so hot where i cant touch it. my GPU normally stays at around 70C and the hottest its been was 80C which is still safe. The alluminum is supposed to transfer heat better but all it does is retain heat more and get super hot. the old plastic one i have is 10x cooler.
What i did notice today tho when my screen problem happened, is that the GPU temperatue is at 50C and wont go above it. I monitor the temperature with istat and never have seen it at 50C and below unless i am just doing a fresh boot.
What really concerns me tho is how the screen went out so close to when my warranty expired.

2010 27in imac screen failure

my 2010 27 in imac screen has failed, right half of screen grey shadow, dark, i note that this has been a problem in the past, seems that apple ireland are not concerned? any opinions or suggestions? seems that there are major reliability issues with imac
extremely disappointed with product and apple support.

Your are missing the point. Yes, there will be the occasional Mac that has a display failure.. Yes, there will be a number of LCD displays that fail out of the millions of Macs that are assembled with LCD displays. And yes, techs will be seeing those occasional display failures over the wide array of Mac models upon which they work. But there are a number of companies that make LCD displays for Apple with the various Mac models that exist. And sometimes there are different companies making the displays for the same Mac model. These are the random, occasional display failures that can be expected with every computer manufacturer who assembles massive numbers of computers; Apple, Toshiba, Dell, Sony and on and on.
But the point is that the link that I gave you points to a consistent mass failure of displays on the same iMac model, assembled in the same factory, over the same time period with displays from the same manufacturer. That doesn't exist for your iMac. If it did we would see folks posting about it here in large numbers, just as we did back in 2006 and 2007, which we are not.

Cleaning scrollball on a mighty mouse -EUREKA! i've found an easy solution

gotta hand it to a clerk at my local apple store, this tip is right on the money.
i had problems with the mighty mouse scrollball sticking...not wanting to scroll down. i tried lots of tips i'd read online. i flipped it over, blew on it, wet the ball with a damp rag, ran it upside down on a piece of paper, and could never manage to keep it fixed for more than a few minutes. until this.
take a paper towel and fold it lengthwise one or two times. apply a line of basic rubbing alcohol to the paper towel. unplug the mouse and hold it upside down. using a moderate pressure, roll the scrollball along the moisened area of the paper towel - back and forth and then side to side. in my case, i could see dark streaks of dirt appear on the paper towel. after drying the scrollball off with a clean paper towel, it was good as new. it hasn't scrolled so effortlessly since it was first new.
i'm told any computer-type alcohol wipes will do the trick. this was cheap, easy and for me, effective.
just wanted to pass it along

Hello drandall
Most likely that Apple Store clerk found that trick here in the Discussion Forum! I not trying to crash your party, but the ol' Rubbing Alcohol Trick® has been around here a long time!
Have a look at the Forum Search below:
http://discussions.apple.com/search.jspa?threadID=&q=rubbingalcohol+to+clean+scrollball&objID=c189&dateRange=all&userID=&numResults=15
Dennis

Exposure Control setting for HDR

I know RAW can contain multiple exposures within the format, but when taking RAW images, when shooting for HDR what should the exposure range be set to 3 photos or 5 photos and;
-0.5 to + 0.5 EV ?
- 1EV to +1 EV ?
-2 EV to +2 EV ?

Depends also if you are using the new Adobe Camera RAW or the new Lightroom (6) or CC2015.
The newest software has some fantastic new ways of combining for HDR. With the new ACR and Lightroom, I have found that 2 to 4 images depending on the dynamic range of the scene, will work well. I have gotten fantastic results with 2 images in the new software, compared to doing the same HDR in the older versions of Photoshop. Just make sure that YOU expose for the highlights in one image and then for the shadows in the other. If you are letting your camera do the AEB, auto exposure bracketing, then try 2 stops. However if you see your three images either too dark or too light (highlights blown in both or shadows dark in both, then try adjusting the settings. Hope that makes sense

Screen Madness

I'm experiencing a couple of very frustrating problems with my Playbook 32GB.
Problem 1: After almost a year of use, when I try to wake it via bezel swipe or power button I most often get dark streaked lines; not the crisp beautiful screen. I can tell the screen is on as the lines shift with the orientation of the tablet and you can see the lines move in response to the screens color shifting during startup. Most of the time I have to hit the power button 4 to 5 times or more before the screen comes on like it should showing its fantastic display.
Problem 2: Now that I have the screen on and displaying like it should, after about 2-3 seconds of color I can only keep the screen lit by applying a slight pressure using fingers on my left hand to press on the Playbook's case just to the side of the Blackberry logo. As long as I'm pressing, I have a bright screen. If I release it, the screen darkens. You can barely see the icons but they are still there.
Anyone else having this same issue and is it repairable!

Fixed my display problem on my own.
Now the proud owner of a 64GB PlayBook as my "work around". Figured it was cheaper than enduring the physical or mental therapy I was on track for using the Goldilocks "just right" pressure method!
Anyway, once i prove to RIM its a hardware issue on the 32GB unit, I'm gonna be sportin two PB's. Now if I could only make them work together to make Sheets to Go worth a d@M^!
Seriously though, I am happy with 2.0 and look forward to more from RIM.

HELP! Black showing up blue in cam raw

I need some help- my blacks are showing up bright blue when I open in camera raw. As I adjust the black, it just gets worse. Is this my color setting on my computer or does anyone have suggestions?
If I need to uninstall/reinstall photoshop, am I going to have any trouble with my serial number being used again?
These are hopefully simple answers, but I just want to get it working right. Thanks!
Katie

You probably have the clipping indicators activated. In the histogram, there are two little icons in the upper corners. The one on the left activates the shadow/dark clipping, and the one on the right activates the highlight clipping. If you click on those little icons you can toggle between having them activated or inactive. That bright blue that you are seeing indicates that the shadows are being clipped. If there are highlights being clipped they will be displayed as a bright red.

Tiny little tone curve idea

In the tone curve one has the three sliders on the bottom splitting the curve into shadows, darks, lights and highlights. The initial settings for the "tone curve regions" are 0-25, 25-50, 50-75 and 75-100.
What I would like to see, is an option to change this initial setting to be relative to the image tonality, not absolute 25/50/75 slider positions, but relative to the amount of different tones in the image. For example in a dark low key image the shadow region could initially be set to something like 0-15 - whatever amounts to 25% of the pixels in the image, and if there were only very little highlights, the righthandmost slider would be probably close to the middle initially, covering the lightest 25% of the pixels in the image.
Sure, I can do this now manually, but an automated option would be nice as I often want to start tweaking the curve with the "splitters" dividing the curve into regions each with roughly the same amount of pixels.

Extremely extremely MONEY for the flat film scans I bring over from VueScan.
All the image data is bunched up on the left side, and Tone Curve is useless until I start varying the split point sliders.
An automated feature for this would be extremely useful.
-Rishi

Cant' update site using macromedia dreamweaver

I use macromedia dreamwaver CS3 for my website pages. I had to dump my computer and start from scratch again, but I did keep all my files on a backup drive, so everything got put back as such afterwards, I can connect and it says putting files, but when I check my website to see if it updated, it doesn't, I've tried several times. Can't figure it out especially since it connects and says it is putting the files. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
Jan Drummond
CLPI
www.darkshadowsweb.com

I have cleared my internet files, I don' keep any history, it is set up to delete the
same day. My info is as follows:
Local Info:
Site Name: darkshadowsweb
local root folder: C:\Dark Shadows\
Default images folder: C:\Dark Shadows\Dark Shadows\Pics 1\
Remote Info:
Access: FTP
FTP Host: ftp darkshadowsweb.com
Host directory: public_html/
Checked off boxes are use passive FTP and Maintain syncronization information. (These two boxes are checked).
Thanks so much for your help.
Jan D

Backup Applications Folder, too?

I'm good about backing up. Usually just drag the USERS folder over to my LaCie, and let it do it's thing. (The other day I tried EXT HD software's, which basically did the same thing.)
But I wonder, why can't I easily also back up my Applications Folder? Wouldn't that make sense, too? Of course, I'm sure I could drag it over to my External Hard Drive and let it copy that, too. What's the thinking on this? Thanks.

Wow man... that was a great post!
I dl'd and ran Applejack and it found a lot of things. I wasn't sure if I was supposed to wack my user cache and prefs or not, but I did anyway. I figure it couldn't hurt. Since the user acct is what has the most action, I thought that perhaps that might be where some of the problem is.
Also, I think I understand backing up now with superduper or anything else. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think what you are saying is that if I clone my current hard drive to another drive (I have a FW drive I can use, instead of USB), that is basically takes all the info on my current drive, and copy's it all to another location, except in a nice and neat order? If it's copying the drive, how does it know what's in or out of order, and what is perhaps not right? In my mind, cloning something doesn't mean making improvements. But perhaps you're saying that it takes all those system files, and puts them in a nice neat arrangement, rather than spread out across the disk. If that is the case, then I can understand that.
I guess I still don't understand why I should clone my current HD? What do I do with the old? Totally wipe it and start over with a fresh install? So then what do I do with the clone? Take things of my choosing, like applications and their pref's and move it over to the new install? That way I don't have to reinstall certain things?
And once I do this, what should I do with that clone? Overwrite it with the nice new reinstall of my OS, along with the app's that I want? And from there, use that clone as my guinnea pig for things before installing them for real? I like that idea.
So, if I install an OS to a FW drive, and boot to it, I can run that OS no problem, and any application on it. Let me ask you this... since I run an iMac, what if my internal HD started to fail? In theory, could I run my OS from the FW indefinitely? Would it be just as fast? Slower? Not a good idea? Just curious.
FWIW, I have Cocktail, TTP, and Disk Warrior, and I have ran them on this machine regularly. I actually figured that maybe TTP actually screwed something up, which is why I wanted to wipe and start over.
The reason why I think something is weird, is because very little will cause my CPU to max out. I dl'd and installed an update to Webkit, and my CPU MAXED while dl'ing and installing it. You can imagine how slow my machine gets when I run something that is really CPU intensive like an Audio application for recording. It's beach ball central, and so sluggish that I can't stand using it. I even added another 2gigs of ram, to max myself out at 2.5 (I have 3gigs installed, but this machine will only recognize 2.5), and it didn't really seem to improve by much.
At my office I use a 2.33 Core Duo iMac G5, and that thing is always fast. Granted, it's supposed to be MUCH faster than this machine. But even so, this machine shouldn't be all THAT frustrating to use should it? It's not far off from one of the older Mini's. Stink-o! I bought it new, and it's still covered under Applecare. But I'm not sure why I would want to take it in? It's a refurb from Apple. And ever since I bought it, I noticed that they musta had the machine apart at one time, and they wiped the inside of the monitor off, and left dark streaks!! I can't clean it off without taking the machine apart, which I'm not going to do. So, right there is a reason to take it to Apple. So they can fix that, and maybe run it thru it's paces. I don't know. I need to do that before my Applecare runs out. I'm wanting to sell this machine soon, so I can get a faster Intel machine, and I don't want to sell it with these streaks, even though you really don't see them unless yer on a white background.
Oh, one more thing, when I booted to Single User mode to run Applejack, my machine had all it's fans CRANKING, and for at least 20 min. The fans stopped immediately when I selected to fix my pref's, and before I hit enter. Isn't that strange? Also, the log on my screen, when I logged in to Single User Mode, indicated strange things that appeared to be "problems" with certain things. I took a pic with my phone, and can send them to you if you want to see.
Thanks for the help! Sorry this is so wordy!
J

Question about ACR sliders: What exactly do they do?

Hello forum, my first post here. I have been using PS off and on for many years for very basic things, cropping, color adjustments, cloning with layers, ect. While I tend to dislike adjusting my tones too much, I have grown interested in knowing exactly how the sliders affect the image. I understand EXPOSURE essentially raises the exposure of everything, and I heard HIGHLIGHTS and SHADOWS affect only the extremes of either end. But is the above true, and, what do BLACKS and WHITES do? FYI I have CC and am up to date. Just wondering if anybody can offer some technical explanation to the sliders. Thanks in advance!

Hi Amanda. Best advice I can give is to closely watch the Histogram as you adjust the sliders.
Black is where all three channels have a value of zero, and white is were all three channels have a value of 255
Shadows will affect tonal values between zero, and something like 50,50,50
Highlights will affect values between something like 200,200,200 and 255,255,255
Note I am gestimating those figures.
Contrast will reinforce the shadow end making shadows darker, and do the reverse at the highlight end. If you understand Curves. it is like add an S shaped curve to am image.
Clarity works similar to Contrast, but whereas Contrast will block up the blacks pushing low tonal values further towards full black, and do the opposite at the other end of the histogram, Clarity reinforces the low tonal values without moving them towards full black, and the revers for highlights. Clarity is one best seen visually by watching the histogram.

Shadows/ dark streaks on my 23"

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