SmcFanControl settings for 2009 iMac 24" with burn-in

I have a 2009 24" iMac with burn-in on the screen. I downloaded smcFanControl, as it's supposed to fix the problem. I have 2 questions. First, can someone tell me what settings I should be using for the ODD, the HDD and the CPU? Second, Since I didn't know what settings to use, I temporarilly set all 3 of them well above the Apple minimums. What I don't understand is that when I look at the current RPM's that the fans are using, they're all below the minimum speeds that I set on the smcFanControl. In other words, when I open up the program at the top of the screen, all of the RPM's that it displays, are significantly lower than the minimums that I set under preferences in the smcFanControl program. In addition, I don't hear any fans at all, the computer is dead silent. Can someone please help me with these 2 issues above. Thanks.

Bringing this up from the almost dead....
...to setup a Hot Corner to sleep the display go to: System Preference > Expose & Spaces > Expose and in the Active Screen Corners section setup any corner you would like to sleep the display. Then any time you leave with a job running, just park the mouse pointer in that corner and sleep the display until you return.
That's fine and dandy for most things, but does not address the issue brought up by the initial poster. When running iDVD the screen will not blank nor will the screen saver start. If you have a hot corner to blank the screen and you move your mouse to the hot corner the screen will stay blanked for maybe 10 seconds before it unblanks. This is true using the iDVD that came with iLife '08. I haven't tried any others.
It seems that iDVD overrides the users sleep/blanking preference. That makes sense if you are watching something. It makes no sense during the 3+ hours it takes me to render a DVD disk image (I'm not burning a disk at this time).

Similar Messages

Best smcFanControl settings for me

Hey guys!
Could someone help out with the best smcFanControl settings to use on my 27" iMac i7 , now keep in mind i am from the uk! lol, the best outside temp i get is 28 degress on a good day! lol , oh and its coming into winter! i will post a link of what i am using at the moment.
WZZZ i had a look at your thread and the only difference i see is that the mazimum CPU speed smcFanControl will allow me is 2100 , i just want to keep it that extra bit cool . Any help would be great!
I am using
ODD - 1229
HDD - 1340
CPU - 1109
my temps surfing the net for say 30 min are
HD 34
CPU 28
Ambient 12
GPU diode 40
GPU heatsink 37
MEM Controller 33
optical drive 30
Power Supply 41

I agree with Lex. With those temps, which are quite low, you can probably stay at the defaults. At least experiment using the defaults to see if the temps remain in that low range. No need to go above the defaults if things remain that cool. I hardly ever run higher than my "minimum" setting. This increases the drive fan, for example, by 292 rpms above the defaults. Occasionally, if it's really hot here, I might go up to the "hot" setting, which is about 400 rpms above the default for the drive. During the winter, I'm usually at the defaults or, possibly, at my "minimum minus" setting, which is 227 rpms above the defaults, for the drive.
I constantly monitor the HD and CPU temps from iStat Menus, which displays them directly in the Menubar.
My settings are based, starting with the defaults, on raising all three fan rpms incrementally by approx 15-20%. These are based on the defaults of my 21.5, which has faster defaults than the 27, I believe. The 27, with bigger fan blades, idles the fans a bit lower to get the same air flow. I don't know what the exact idling rpms are for the 27, but your first setting should be about 15-20% above whatever those are, for each of the three fans. Next setting is approx 15-20% of the previous setting and so on.
You will find it's impossible to set the sliders for an exact figure.
My "hottest" setting is at approx 2K, but I never need to use it or the "hotter" setting. If it gets that hot, as it did during a searing heat wave we had a few weeks ago -- it was 110F outside and in the low 90s inside -- I just sleep the computer. No amount of blowing air around is going to help much when it's like that.
When I feel the back of the computer getting kind of warm -- and I often run without it during the winter -- I turn on the fan behind. It is a small clip-on fan mounted to the wall on a bracket to avoid vibration, with the blades only about 6" away from the back. It is aimed upwards, mainly at the upper left corner, as you face the screen, where it gets the hottest. The aiming upwards is to minimize the air flow under the computer, so as to reduce dust collecting at the bottom air intake. If it were not aimed upwards, most of the air flow would be striking around the middle of the back.

Best Render Settings for my iMac?

I am running Motion 5 on a 20-inch Early 2009 iMac (the model right before the screen was made edge-to-edge).
Here are my specs:
Processor: 2.66 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
Memory: 4 GB 1067 MHz DDR3
Graphics: NVIDIA GeForce 9400 256 MB
I am not familiar with the render settings in Motion and was wondering what settings I should use to get the best performance.

hi,
it depends on what you have going on in your project as well. Use the render settings that give you the most fliudity for your current project. And / or you can select a play range and only render view that part as you work on. Its more dependant on your RAM anyway, since a rendered project is loaded into RAM to play.
adam

Which airport card do i need for a imac g3 with mac os x 10.1?

I have a imac g3 with mac os x 10.1.What airport card will i need?

Hello puckey12345. Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
I have a imac g3 with mac os x 10.1.What airport card will i need?
The iMac G3s with a clock speed of 400 MHz or faster, has an internal slot for the original AirPort card. The AirPort card adapter is also required to use the card in an iMac G3. The AirPort Extreme card is NOT compatible.
(ref: Apple Support - Specifications)

Does Apple have a trade-in program for 2009 iMac (to purchase a brand new iMac or Mac Pro?

I have an Apple iMac11,1 with 16Gb memory, 2 Tb drive, Superdrive, QuadCore 2.8 I7 processor, ATIU Radeon HD 4850 Graphics board with 512 VRam. I'm considering a new computer (either a new i7 iMac or the MacPro desktop) and was wondering if there is a used market within this community or if Apple has a trade-in program for older iMac's. Does anyone know?

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
There's no a trade-in program, but if you recycle it, you will get an Apple Gift Card with the value of the iMac that you can use to buy a new Mac at an Apple Retail Store or the Apple Online Store > http://www.apple.com/recycling

I have 2009 IMAC installed with latest OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion. But I don't have Ilife ,I can't find from my system.OS X 10.8 normally coming with Ilife ? It's true. Then how can I find Ilife?

I have 2009 early Imac installed with latest OS X Mountain Lion. But I can't find Ilife from my system. Normally Mountain Lion coming with Ilife loaded, it's true? But I can't find Ilife applications. Pls, advice me.

It is my understanding that iLife is not included with Mountain Lion, but with a new Mac... You only get it pre-installed as part of a hardware purchase.
I am not an expert, but hopefully someone else will be able to confirm this, and if correct it means you wil have to purchase iLife seperately from the Mac App Store.
Sorry!
Update: If you visit the online Apple store and start to order a new Mac, you will see that iLife is not included and can be added as an extra purchase.
You will have to purchase this seperatley.
Message was edited by: Ben Yafai

Best settings for Green Screen Video with Canon Mark iii

HI
What are the ideal camera settings for Green screen video.
Iso?
aperature?
Depth of field settings (best to have the green screen a bit out of focus?)
Any other camera settings would be helpful.
Thanks
Rowby

Hi Rowby!
Thanks so much for writing in about green screen shooting with the EOS 5D Mark III camera. Green screen shooting can come down to some crucial elements and how well you handle the camera and the lighting.
Arguably the most important thing is to have excellent lighting on the screen. Without this, the keys used to replace the green screen will not be accurate. So hopefully you have a good set of lights you will be using to actually light the physical screen.
With regards to ISO, shoot as low as possible. We suggest that you stick in the ISO 200-400 range where possible. With good, high key, proper lighting on the screen this shouldn't be an issue.
Aperture should actually be in the higher end of the range, you would want to stick to apertures around f/8 and above. Again, with adequate lighting this shouldn't be out of reach. This is so the green screen is more in focus, versus having it out of focus, which would not yield successful results.
Use an appropriate lens to the subject, for example if you are doing wide shots- use only the focal length needed for the shoot and no wider. For head shots, close ups- use a lens that will get you close.
Following these suggestions should give you some pretty good results. Remember, if this is your first attempt don't be discouraged, green screen shooting can be difficult to accomplish.
We wish you the best of luck in your endeavor!
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

Is there a Replacement Program for 2009 iMacs with MXM Graphics Cards?

I have an iMac 24" Early 2009 with the Nvidia GeForce GT 120 256MB MXM graphics card that is freezing and crashing over-and-over, especially when I'm away and it's not connected to my 2nd display! Odd. I've done the usual (cleaned the iMac inside, run fsck, SMC reset, PRAM reset, repair permissions from boot USB, disconnected all peripherals, changed mice and keyboards, changed the HD, reinstalled the OS, run Onyx and so on) and finally decided that it's a faulty graphics card that only a replacement will fix. When I'm home it's more stable when connected via a Displayport DVI adapter to DVI cable to a 24" Dell display. When standalone (like when traveling with my iMac for long stints out of town) it's unusable. It won't run for longer than 30 minutes, often not even 10 minutes, then I get screen artifacts and freezes and then have to fsck to repair the drive before running it again. Only running it in Safe Mode will allow it to run reliably.
However, I believe that I found a stopgap solution. I installed a program which I downloaded after installing XCode called Quartz Debug which has apparently allowed me to disable Quartz Extreme, 2D Acceleration and Quartz GL.
Turning off all Quartz graphics enhancements makes this machine stable if not exactly completely "mac-like" in its performance, but it's at least usable under most conditions for long periods of time. I know of people who have replaced the MXM graphics card on this machine with good effect, but it's an expensive proposition and these cards are apparently few and far between. Has anyone done this?
Based on the large number of nearly identical complaints about this model, both here and elsewhere, it seems like this MXM graphics card is defective or Apple's drivers are defective . . . well maybe, but it very, very predictably crashes when the computer gets hotter and not even _extremely_ hot, but well within what would be normal operating temps for other machines.
I've disassembled and completely cleaned the inside and have replaced the HD with an SSD and removed the optical drive entirely so if anything I've reduced heat-producing devices from the interior of the device installed a fan control and keep the graphics card features mostly turned off.
I've looked for but have yet to see a recall or warranty replacement program for this device and no, I don't have Applecare. I've owned several Apple products in the last two decades and with the issues with Apple products in recent years, it seems like Applecare must be figured as part of any Apple purchase if reliability and ongoing support is desired.
Ironically, I have an Apple IIc and a Power Computing Power Tower 166 that still work just fine, thank you!
JoeL
Atlanta, GA

This cropped up on my wife's late 2009 model 27" iMac, too. Random freezes were encountered, unable to identify cause for months, then one day it started to become unable to complete a normal boot. Tech Tool Deluxe was the only direct indication as far as diagnostics are concerned. I've NEVER been abvle to get Apple's hardware diagnostic to run from the cloud, and we fianlly got it on a Techs' bench, AHT showed nothing wrong. As you said, Safe boot is the only way to get into the system, and performance under 10.8.5 is glacial.
Now the kicker - we DID have AppleCare, and this phase of the MXM graphics demise hit within 4 or 5 months of AppleCare expiration. There's no longer a flat-rate repair option, Apple doesn't have any stock of the video board to sell as a replacement part (was $169, or $179 w/no exchange) and even refurbs of this paltry (512MB VRAM) board can hit $300. I know Mac users have become 2nd-class citizens in Apple's business universe, but we're now looking at sub-42 month lifespans for hardware? At $2k for a machine that lacks touchscreen option, that's out of line.

Read this for CD/DVD Drive with burning, missing drives, not seeing discs

Seeing lots of the same posts with the same solutions being applied (mostly upper/lower control filters/MS Fixit)... so I thought I'd put this up for everyone.
*Update* If this helps, please click the kudos to the right as I'm trying to gauge how effective this is. If you have the time to help the community, please reply stating what did or did not work.
There are some helpful HP support articles that you may want to try before posting:
If your drive cannot burn discs... or you can burn CDs but not DVDs (or vise/versa)... read this...
Drive Cannot Write to Writable Discs (Windows 7)
Drive Cannot Write to Writable Discs (Windows Vista)
Drive Cannot Write to Writable Discs (Windows 98, ME, XP)
Summary:
1) Try different discs! Cheap discs can be hit or miss. Find a disc brand and type that works best.
2) Try burning at a slower speed (not the best option, but can often get the job done if the laser is fading).
3) Remove drive from Device Manager and remove upper/lower filters (see below).
4) Use MS System Restore to go back to a time when it was working.
5) Use PC-Doctor/HP Hardware Diagnostic software to check for a bad drive.
6) If the drive is not bad - save your files and use HP Recovery to put the system back to the beginning.
If your drive cannot read discs; CDs or DVDs or both...
Drive Cannot Read Discs in Windows 7
Drive Cannot Read Discs in Windows Vista
Drive Cannot Read Discs in Windows 98, ME, and XP
Summary:
{restart the PC at least once to see if the drive shows up on boot}
1) See if the drive is listed in Device Manager (look for problems if it is).
2) Check autoplay (skip if you don't use).
3) Make sure a bad disc isn't knocking out the drive (an operating system mounts discs as drives and things can get screwed up).
4) Try reading the disc from a command prompt environment (outside of Windows).
5) Reinstall drive from Device Manager (if drive is listed). {I'd replace this with bigger process of remove upper/lower filters (see below)}.
6) Use MS System Restore to go back to a time when it was working.
7) Use PC-Doctor/HP Hardware Diagnostic software to check for a bad drive.
CD/DVD drive is missing (not in Windows Explorer or My Computer or in burning software)...
CD/DVD Drive is not Detected (Windows 7)
CD/DVD Drive is not Detected (Windows Vista)
CD or DVD Drive is not Detected (Windows 98, ME, or XP)
Summary:
1) See if the drive is listed in Device Manager (troubleshoot based on what you see).
2) Reset Power: Unplug power cord, press Power button for 10 seconds.
3) Check power and data cables attached to the drive and look in the BIOS for the drive name.
4) Remove upper/lower filters (see below).
5) Reinstall burning software
6) Get and CD/DVD drive firmware updates if available (to prevent missing drives in the future (I assume)).
7) Use MS System Restore to go back to a time when it was working.
Stuck Drawer...
Opening a Stuck CD or DVD Drive Tray
Summary:
1) Press eject button on case, on drive, button on keyboard (if exists).
2) Right-click drive icon in Windows and select Eject.
3) Turn off PC and inert a straightened paper clip into the manual release hole on the drive.
4) Check the power cord on the back of the drive.
MS FIXit, Resetting Upper and lower Filters (XP, Vista and 7)
First... try to use the MS Fixit (for Vista) if you are on the computer having the problem)...
Microsoft Fix it Solution
Otherwise, here are the manual steps (overview):
1) Uninstall the CD/DVD drive in Device Manager and DO NOT RESTART the computer.
2) Uninstall your CD burning software (make sure you have the installation disc or you can resinstall from Start, Programs, PC Help and Tools, Recovery Manager (or Driver/Application Recovery). If you don't have the installation discs, skip this step - it might still work).
3) Open the registry editor (Start -> Run -> enter Regedit) ... might want to make a backup of the registry at this point.
4) Open the following keys:
+ HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE
+ SYSTEM
+ CurrentControlSet (or the current control set with lowest number if that is all that is listed)
+ Control
+ Class
5) Select 4D36E965-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318. It has to be this exact key - make sure you can see the last numbers!!!
6) Delete the UpperFilter and or the LowerFilters value in the right window if either exists.
7) RESTART the computer - this step is important. Wait for Windows to find and install the CD/DVD drive you removed earlier.
8) Reinstall your burning software and restart the computer again.
Message Edited by GarenT on 10-07-2009 06:32 PM
Message Edited by RasterBlaster on 11-30-2009 03:51 PM
... an HP employee expressing his own opinion.
Please post rather than send me a Message. It's good for the community and I might not be able to get back quickly. - Thank you.

That's why you want to make a backup of the registry. If you didn't make a backup, use MS system restore to go back. The only values you should remove are UpperFilter or LowerFilter - one or both may be in there and can be removed. If neither value exists, then that is probably why you can't burn and Windows is not recognizing your drive as a writable drive.
... an HP employee expressing his own opinion.
Please post rather than send me a Message. It's good for the community and I might not be able to get back quickly. - Thank you.

Possible reason for the iMac G5 with 10.4.3 Sleep Problems

Ok first off let me say that I got this new iMac G5 20" about 4 days ago. It's wonderful. If anyone out there is holding out for the intel machines, don't wait, get a G5. It's a fantastic machine. Now on to the meat of the subject. The story goes like this; I hooked up my Plextor PVR with eyeTV to my iMac to see how well it would do (been using it with a P4 Windoze XP machine and my iBook G4 14" with no problems). It worked just great. No problems with the iMac, the PVR or any of my other addons (including the boatload of software I migrated over from the iBook). So I set up EyeTV to record some stuff while I was asleep. It's supposed to wake up the Mac, record the shows then the Mac goes back to sleep. Easy huh? Well the wakeup, record part went just fine but the Mac wouldn't go back to sleep. Perplexed (actually thrilled, this is where I have my most fun with new machines, figuring out why they aren't working correctly) I did all the standard "I can't get my Mac to sleep automatically" things. You know, blow away all the plist files that have anything to do with powermanagement and autowake, reset NVRAM from OF, reset the PRAM (3 times just like the old days), reset the SMU, blow away all the Bluetooth plist files, etc, etc. Did them all, don't suggest any, I did them all I swear, really. I've been through this kind of thing before. One big difference with this iMac. Nothing and I mean nothing would work to fix the problem. The only way the bad boy would sleep is by hitting the Power button for a second or selecting "Sleep" from the Apple menu. Hmmmm. Spent the better part of a morning reading every thread here about peoples problems like mine. One post and I mean exactly one had something I hadn't tried. I rebooted the Mac in Safe Mode (hold the shift key down while it boots until you get the login screen with the red text "Safe Mode".) I forgot that OSX even did that. Logged in as myself (normal login but still in safe mode) and low and behold the thing would sleep automatically! I repeated this (boot in normal mode, boot in safe mode) many times. Every single time the Mac would sleep from safe mode but not from normal mode. Tells me it's software not hardware. In each mode I run "Activity Monitor" and save a list of the running processes to a text file. Now compare them and shutdown each process that is different one at a time. To make this story somewhat shorter (heh) I finally found that I could consistantly make the machine sleep or not sleep by killing the "mdimport" process and restarting it. This has to do with Spotlight. To be exact, it's the process that imports Metadata into Spotlights data list (I'm no expert, have a basic understanding of this). So on a hunch I ran the terminal and entered the command to delete then rebuild Spotlights databases, "mdutil -E /". Then I let Spotlight rebuild that databases and rebooted. Guess what? The iMac sleeps perfectly now, go figure. I did this once so far and the Mac has been working correctly now for about 5 hours. I've got a feeling that the problem will come back. Especially if it's an inherent problem in Spotlight and the 10.4.3 upgrade. I don't seem to have this problem with 10.4 or earlier. Long post I know but I thought it could help someone out. Please post any comments. I'd like to know if what I did is coincidence (I really don't think so since I reproduced it many times) or not.
-joe-
iBook G4 1Gig, iMac G5 2.1 Gig, iMac 266 Mac OS X (10.4.3) iMac 266 running 10.3.6, been using Macs since the '80s

Right guy's i to have researched this problem
concerning my auto sleep problem.I started off by
following Joeaux's original post by safe
booting,noting what was running in the activity
monitor,booting normaly and again noting what was
running now.I eliminated the same processes that were
running from both boots, and then started quiting one
by one, the extra processes, from the normal boot, in
activity monitor.Once you quit a process, allow the
computer to try to go to sleep i.e set energy saver
to 1minute and wait to see what happens.I tried the "
mdimport"as of Joeaux but this was not my problem.In
my case the sleep problem was down to two
applications called N67U_ButtonManager and
N124U_ButtonManager.These are for use with my Canon
scanner.I also noted that if i left the scanner
connected to the computer this would also stop it
going to sleep,even after deleting the two
applications.Hope this helps!
Thank you now i know that those login items are for my scanner, and not logic audio i am a little less angry(Logic is now an apple application but the version I run was from the emagic days and i presumed that the button managers were from this app as it was the oldest bit of software running on my machine) By the way any apps that may cause a problem like this are more than likely simply residing in your user login items and can be disabled from there permanently as far as i can see.

2009 iMac 27in - screen burn visible (Pics)

Hey everyone, I have an i5 that I bought back in 2009 that has started developing screen issues. There seems to be a ripple on the right side of my screen internally, that is visible only on flat colored backgrounds. I use my iMac for a couple of hours a day, put it to sleep at night, and have been using my Belfan adapter to use a display for my 360 as well.
Has anyone had any similar issues? I think my warranty has run out...should I haul it to the Apple store for help? Thanks in advance.

unless you have AppleCare your warranty is long gone. You need to bring that to Apple to have it fixed (new screen). I have no idea how much it costs.

Security Settings for two admin groups with shared service

Hi all,
I use Essbase Administration Services 11.1.2 and Hyperion Shared Services Console 11.1.2.0.73 (Drop 17)
Access Rights are granted via Groups in Hyperion Shared Service Console.
We have two admin groups.
AccessGroup 1: admin rights on some cubes (A) and read rights on all others (B).
AccessGroup 2: admin rights on (B) and read rights on (A).
If someone of AccessGroup 1 copies a cube of (A) – Fin_rep for example – wether AccessGroup 1 nor AccessGroup 2 can even see the cube (and i dont even mention admin rights) execpt the one who copied it.
Settings in Shared Services Console:
- Both groups have role "Create/delete application" and "AccessManager" (or something like that - german word is "Zugriffsberechtigungsmanager") on Essbase Cluster (our essbase server).
- AccessGroup 1 has role "ApplicationManager" and "AccessManager" for all cubes which they should administrate (A)
and role "Read" for all cubes with read only (B)
- AccessGroup 2 has role "ApplicationManager" and "AccessManager" for all cubes which they should administrate (B)
and role "Read" for all cubes with read only (A)
I hope i can get some help with this topic.
Thank you in advance,
Best regards
Bernd
Edited by: 907705 on 07.02.2012 02:52

Security will not copy over when you create new cube from old cube. You have to grant security to required groups using shared services or Maxl.

Early 2009 MacPro Black with burns inside

I have been following a thread since I got my MP last year, they replaced the whole unit last year for me and it was exactly the same, turd bluetooth. so last year I decided to wait for a fix, thinking there might be one soon how wrong was I. "STILL WAITING APPLE"
So recently I came back to the thread ( bluetooth issue ) to see if we were any closer to a fix. some guys are getting things fixed some aren't. Id read if you open the side door the bluetooth works great. So I decided to open the door and have a look inside. yep my Magic mouse is much improved while the door is open.
While it was open I had a look about inside the machine. I could see black marks under the graphics card. so decided to shut the machine down and have a look at it. so while the machine was off, I removed the graphics card and nearly started crying LOL. I have no where to post these images but this machine is defo getting too hot or as been at some point. the plastic matt that sits under the graphics card (Radeon 4870) is black in places also the aluminium is black too, now this is not dust as it does not rub off. Its charred Black.
So I decided to call apple myself and explain.
After I did they where not so interested in the bluetooth problem but more interested in getting some images of this blackening issue, after they did, he was certain this is an unusual problem but may be linked to the bluetooth issue as the bluetooth module is in the same area. (Not The Cause) he had me do some capturing of system logs and such, sent that back also attached the images, and i am now waiting for the engineers to analyse the data I sent.
Jesus apple I have been complaining about my 2500 pound machine since i got it what the heck. I wanna throw 2500 bad apples at jobs head. (not really)
So I have posted this here too see if anyone else with the radeon 4870 is experiencing the same issues iv explained here as this graphics card could be the cause of all our bluetooth issues or maybe not but this card is deffo getting way too hot, and who knows what kind of poison this thing is pumping out. Also ive been told not to use the machine as it could pose some sort of health risk to me. I really cant believe this as this is the most expensive machine apple make an iv had nothing but trouble.
Anyone remember the heat issue with the audio. maybe thats some link to where this heat came from.
god knows all i want is a fix to this
If anyone wants to see the pics send me an email and ill forward them too you.
higlo20 (at) hotmail (dot) com
Cheers for any input
Ste

Rather than wait for "a fix", you really need to contact AppleCare and ask to speak to customer relations if AppleCare won't listen to you. If your machine was experiencing these issues under AppleCare, or under the 1 year warranty, you'd have ample justification to request a repair under it, unless you spilled something inside the machine. This is a user to user board, and all we can do is suggest you contact Apple directly regarding your issue. If you are out of AppleCare, you may still be able to get it repaired this way if the Mac Pros ever show up there:
http://www.apple.com/support/exchange_repair/
If you under AppleCare, you can get more justification for repair under it, by running the hardware test here:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=303081
If you aren't using a UPS, or if you haven't had an electrician look at your outlet to make sure it isn't giving the machine dirty power, now is the time to look at that. Make sure the machine's and peripheral's manual/specs listed ampere is not above what your circuit is putting out.
If you have put in third party RAM, and still have the original RAM, and are out of AppleCare, it may be time to see if getting an original graphics card and replacement high quality RAM*:
http://www.macmaps.com/badram.html
fixes issues. Because RAM can go bad at any time, and without warning, frequently overheating machines when it does go bad, and is often the least expensive repair.
If none of those fix it, and you are using some heat diagnosis software, stop. Those software can actually cause more trouble than help, because Apple hasn't published the specs of the internal heat requirements of the machine. And if you force cooling to shut off with some system level commands, that might be a contributing factor in why you got burn marks. If the cost to repair it excedes what you can afford, I suggest moving to another Mac, and this time, be more prepared to get AppleCare before your machine is over a year old.
As for others facing similar issues, they should look at what are possible contributing causes that I've listed here above.
- * Links to my pages may give me compensation.

What is the best version of Safari for an iMac G5 with Tiger?

I upgraded an iMac G5 to Tiger. Safari crashes often and does not support many new web sites, particularly those requiring Flash. Any suggestions? I have tried Opera and Camino both of which have problems when Flash is required.

The final version of Safari for Tiger was 4.1.3.
Safari 4.1.3 for Tiger can be downloaded here:
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1069
As regards Flash:
You can check here what version of Flash player you actually have installed: http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/155/tn_15507.html
You can check here: http://www.adobe.com/products/flash/about/ to see which version you should install for your Mac and OS. Note that version 10,1,102,64 is the last version available to PPC Mac users*. The latest version, 10.2.152.25, 10.3.x beta, or later, is for Intel Macs only, as Adobe no longer support the PPC platform. Version 11.0.1.152 is for Lion.
* Unhelpfully, if you want the last version for PPC Macs, you need to go here: http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/142/tn_14266.html and scroll down to 'Archived Versions/Older Archives'. Flash Player 10.1.102.64 is the one you download. More information here: http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/838/cpsid_83808.html
You should first uninstall any previous version of Flash Player, using the uninstaller from here (make sure you use the correct one!):
http://kb2.adobe.com/cps/909/cpsid_90906.html
and also that you follow the instructions closely, such as closing ALL applications first before installing. You must also carry out a permission repair after installing anything from Adobe.
(If you are running a PPC Mac with Flash Player 10.1.102.64 and are having problems with watching videos on FaceBook or other sites, contributor Texas Mac Man suggests the following solution which fools the site into thinking that you are running the latest version:)
Download this http://www.steelbin.com/FPforFBPPC.zip to your desktop, unzip it, and replace the current Flash Player plug-in which is in your main/Library/Internet Plug-Ins folder, (not the user Library). Save the old one just in case this one doesn't work.

Settings for 24p advanced mode with a Panasonic AG-DVX100B?

I recently bought a Panasonic AG-DVX100B to shoot a docu and a low-budget feature. I have shot some test footage (and am going to be shooting) in 24P advanced mode. Can anyone tell me what FCP settings I need to change (or be concerned about) since I'll be changing from a mid-level consumer miniDV camera to the DVX?
Also, so I don't have to keep bugging people in here, does anyone know of any reputable tutorial sites for using FCP with the DVX? Or even any site(s) or book(s) that explain FCP in more detail than the manual? I've perused Ken Stone's site, and it looks pretty helpful but, the more, the merrier!
I'm using FCP 4.5 on a dual 2GHz PowerMac running 10.4.9, with 1.5GB of RAM, a 400GB internal drive, and a 140GB Firewire drive.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you,
Lloyd

Lloyd... as a DVX lover, I must say you made a great choice.
The DV/NTSC (or PAL) 2.3.3.2 Advanced Pulldown Removal option for capture works great... IF *I'll get to that IF in a second.
I copied that default and made one that also includes the anamorphic button checked (as the default doesn't.)
Ok... the IF - make sure you:
1) NEVER turn off the camera while recording (use the RED stop button first, then turn off (of course))
2) NEVER when shooting 24pA review your shot material. SOMETIMES if you use the find last frame feature on the camera (in VCR mode) it will be ok, but NEVER just rewind and start recording willy-nilly... this will for sure disrupt the cadence and you'll get a quit capture when you try to capture the footage.
3) NEVER switch the scene setup on the camera in the middle of a tape. Put some duck-tape over that scene wheel so you don't hit it with your thumb!! (the B model is better about this as it is recessed a bit.)
If all else fails, capture using the 29.97 setting without the cadence removal and then chop it up into bits and use the TOOLS menu feature to remove the cadence after you've captured it.
As for the sequence (after you've got it captured...) use the 23.97 DV/NTSC (pal) sequence - use the anamorphic as needed.
Good luck... feel free to check out the DVX site (if you like skateboard videos), there are some VERY knowledgeable folks over there - or email me anytime also.
CaptM

SmcFanControl settings for 2009 iMac 24" with burn-in

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