SNMP power supply monitoring an XR 12404

I'm trying to monitor basic health status of the Power Supply on a 12404. However, I cannot find the relevant information from the ENTITY MIB or it's Cisco extensions.

Thanks Joel. Here is the output from a walk of entPhysicalDescr:
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.1 = STRING: "Cisco 12404 80Gbps fabric"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.2 = STRING: "Line Card/RP slot "
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.3 = STRING: "Cisco 12000 Series Performance Route Processor  2"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.4 = STRING: "host__PLIM_V7_HDD_5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.5 = STRING: "host__PLIM_V6_1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.6 = STRING: "host__PLIM_V4_1.3V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.7 = STRING: "host__PLIM_V5_1.8V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.8 = STRING: "host__PLIM_V3_2.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.9 = STRING: "host__3.3V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.10 = STRING: "host__5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.11 = STRING: "host__Mbus5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.12 = STRING: "host__InletTemp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.13 = STRING: "host__HotTemp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.14 = STRING: "Line Card/RP slot "
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.15 = STRING: "Cisco 12000 Series - Multi-Service Blade "
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.16 = STRING: "host__12V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.17 = STRING: "host__0.75V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.18 = STRING: "host__1.2V_MPU"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.19 = STRING: "host__1.2V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.20 = STRING: "host__1.25V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.21 = STRING: "host__1.25V_IXP1"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.22 = STRING: "host__1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.23 = STRING: "host__MB_PLL_1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.24 = STRING: "host__1.8V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.25 = STRING: "host__2.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.26 = STRING: "host__3.3V_DB1_AUX"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.27 = STRING: "host__3.3V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.28 = STRING: "host__5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.29 = STRING: "host__Mbus5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.30 = STRING: "host__HotTemp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.31 = STRING: "host__InletTemp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.32 = STRING: "Line Card/RP slot "
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.33 = STRING: "Cisco 12000 Series - Multi-Service Blade "
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.34 = STRING: "host__12V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.35 = STRING: "host__0.75V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.36 = STRING: "host__1.2V_MPU"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.37 = STRING: "host__1.2V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.38 = STRING: "host__1.25V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.39 = STRING: "host__1.25V_IXP1"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.40 = STRING: "host__1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.41 = STRING: "host__MB_PLL_1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.42 = STRING: "host__1.8V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.43 = STRING: "host__2.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.44 = STRING: "host__3.3V_DB1_AUX"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.45 = STRING: "host__3.3V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.46 = STRING: "host__5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.47 = STRING: "host__Mbus5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.48 = STRING: "host__HotTemp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.49 = STRING: "host__InletTemp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.50 = STRING: "Line Card/RP slot "
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.51 = STRING: "Cisco 12000 Series SPA Interface Processor-  401"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.52 = STRING: "Shared Port Adapter(SPA) Bay"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.53 = STRING: "2-port Gigabit Ethernet Shared Port Adapter_V2"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.54 = STRING: "Shared Port Adapter(SPA) Port Slot"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.55 = STRING: "Shared Port Adapter(SPA) Port Slot"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.56 = STRING: "Shared Port Adapter(SPA) Bay"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.57 = STRING: "Shared Port Adapter(SPA) Bay"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.58 = STRING: "Shared Port Adapter(SPA) Bay"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.59 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_Tcam3"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.60 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_Tcam2"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.61 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_Tcam1"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.62 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_1.2Vs2"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.63 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_1.2Vs1"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.64 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_Wwolf"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.65 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_PLL"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.66 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_0.75V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.67 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.68 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_1.8V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.69 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_1.25V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.70 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_2.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.71 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_Sonet"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.72 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_3.3V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.73 = STRING: "host__DtrCard_12V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.74 = STRING: "host__MB_Tcam3"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.75 = STRING: "host__MB_Tcam2"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.76 = STRING: "host__MB_Tcam1"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.77 = STRING: "host__MB_1.2Vsupply2"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.78 = STRING: "host__MB_1.2Vsupply1"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.79 = STRING: "host__MB_CPU_1.3V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.80 = STRING: "host__MB_PLL_1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.81 = STRING: "host__MB_0.75V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.82 = STRING: "host__MB_1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.83 = STRING: "host__MB_1.8V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.84 = STRING: "host__MB_1.25V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.85 = STRING: "host__MB_2.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.86 = STRING: "host__MB_3.3V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.87 = STRING: "host__MB_12V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.88 = STRING: "host__Mbus5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.89 = STRING: "host__InletTemp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.90 = STRING: "host__HotTemp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.105 = STRING: "spa0__3.3V_AUX"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.106 = STRING: "spa0__12V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.107 = STRING: "spa0__1.2V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.108 = STRING: "spa0__1.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.109 = STRING: "spa0__2.5V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.110 = STRING: "spa0__3.3V"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.111 = STRING: "spa0__DownStream_Temp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.112 = STRING: "spa0__UpStream_Temp"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.113 = STRING: "GE SX"
SNMPv2-SMI::mib-2.47.1.1.1.1.2.114 = STRING: "GE SX"
The "sh power status power-supply" isn't available, but I do have the following:
#show env power-supply detail
                      48V       Current
R/S/I     Module      (V)           (A)
0/24/*    PEM1         52             8
          PEM2         52             8
    Total Power Supplies:                  2200W
        PEM  Description  Watts
        PEM1 Smart  AC    1100
        PEM2 Smart  AC    1100
    Redundant Power Supplies:              1100W
    Worst Case Power Used:                 1125W
     Slot Description                                        Max Watts
        0 Cisco 12000 Series Performance Route Processor            60
        1 Cisco 12000 Series - Multi-Service Blade                 250
        2 Cisco 12000 Series - Multi-Service Blade                 250
        3 Cisco 12000 Series SPA Interface Processor-              240
       17 GSR 12404 Consolidated Fabric/Alarm Card                 117
       24 Alarm Board(404)                                         208
    Worst Case Redundant Power Available:  None
    Worst Case Total Power Available:      1075W

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    I am using two Cisco C3KX-PWR-350WAC Modular Power Supply per switch.
    The OID I use to monitor the PSU are the following:
    Power Supply 1
    .1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.13.1.5.1.3 Instance: 1003
    Power Supply 2
    .1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.13.1.5.1.3 Instance: 1004
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    When I simulate a power outage on power supply 1 or 2 by unplugging the power source, the value doesn't change and is still (1).
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    As for the Fans:
    When I remove the fan module, I am able to get a notification that the fans are down, but when I plug back the fan module it is now using a different instance.
    Below is my config for SNMP:
    snmp-server community XXXXXXXXXXXXXX RO
    snmp-server location XXXXXX
    snmp-server contact XXXXXX
    snmp-server chassis-id Cisco3560X
    snmp-server enable traps snmp authentication linkdown linkup coldstart warmstart
    snmp-server enable traps transceiver all
    snmp-server enable traps tty
    snmp-server enable traps license
    snmp-server enable traps cpu threshold
    snmp-server enable traps syslog
    snmp-server enable traps vlancreate
    snmp-server enable traps vlandelete
    snmp-server enable traps port-security
    snmp-server enable traps envmon fan shutdown supply temperature status
    snmp-server enable traps errdisable
    snmp-server enable traps vlan-membership
    snmp-server host X.X.X.X version 2c XXXXXXXXXXXXXX
    Note: This problem is the same for all of my 3560X switches and 3750X switches. I am not sure if I am monitoring the wrong OID. 
    Thanks in advance

    Hi ,
    You are running an old IOS code , definitely you are hitting a BUG .
    there is no workaround or I would say unfirtunetely you will not be able to get the correct power supply status via SNMP.
    you need to use command line for this.
    I mean "show env all "
    **** if you want to know the Excat BUG that your code is hitting ,please contact TAC.
    Thanks-
    Afroz
    **Ratings Encourages Contributors ****

  • Solution for monitor power supply and raid 5 on x4150 server

    Hi everybody,
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    (i want to know if a power is down or if a disk is "dead")
    We are using Nagios, cacti and munin actually, so can we use these interfaces for that?
    if the answer is no, a script can be developed , if only i knew the command that can be used to take informations from the state of the raid5, i'll comunicate later the type of the raid card.
    what are the best solutions availables for monitor those things?
    thanks by advance

    We have some x4150s but they're running Linux. There are separate solutions for each of the 2 problems.
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    2. For the RAID card, assuming it's the standard Adaptec (rebranded as StorageTek) controller, you can install and use StorMan software (it's on the tools & drivers CD if not pre-installed). Once again you can configure email notification from the StorMan GUI, but this time it relies on OS host services to do the mail forwarding via the host NIC.
    I'm not familiar with the details of your network system admin tools, but hopefully these tips will provide pointers on what hooks are available for these tools to tie into. Presumably there's also Sun N1 management software which can probably do this in a more built-in way, but it sounds like you've already got more than enough management tools.

  • HP vs15 monitor audio power supply voltage and amps

    I have a HP vs15 monitor that I need to know the audio power supply voltage and amperage.

    HI grizspeck:
    Thank you for your inquiry.
    I am sending you a link to the specifications of he HP Pavilion vs15 monitor  click here.
    Sparkles1
    I work on behalf of HP
    Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
    Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom right to say “Thanks” for helping!

  • I need a monitor power supply for HP2711X. Where can I buy one?

    I need a monitor power supply for HP2711X. Where can I buy one?
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    Because the XP597A3 (actually any of these product numbers; XP597AA, XP597A3, XP597AS) is a HP 2011x 20" LCD/LED widescreen monitor. The OP was looking for an A/C adapter power supply for the HP 2711x 27" LCD/LED widescreen monitor, which is product # XP600AA or XP600A3. The adapter power supply I linked to, is the correct part for the 2711x monitor.... that is why not those other parts.
    Frank
    {------------ Please click the "White Kudos" Thumbs Up to say THANKS for helping.
    Please click the "Accept As Solution" on my post, if my assistance has solved your issue. ------------V
    This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I don't work for HP.
    HP 15t-j100 (on loan from HP)
    HP 13 Split x2 (on loan from HP)
    HP Slate8 Pro (on loan from HP)
    HP a1632x - Windows 7, 4GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
    HP p6130y - Windows 7, 8GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
    HP p6320y - Windows 7, 8GB RAM, NVIDIA GT 240
    HP p7-1026 - Windows 7, 6GB RAM, AMD Radeon HD 6450
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  • My PH m7160n Desktop PC the power supply make high noise no signal to the monitor

    my PH Media Center m7160n desktop PC the power supply make loud noise and no signal to the monitor I already replace the power supply but still the same, Thanks
    Davilea

    Hello @davilea,
    I understand that you are getting a loud noise from your computer and a 'No Signal' message on your HP Media Center m7160n Desktop PC's monitor. As you have already replaced the power supply I will provide you with the HP Support document: Flat Panel Monitor Displays Message about No Signal, Signal out of Range, Sleep, or Power Save, which should help you resolve the 'No Signal' message.
    Please re-post if you require additional support. Thank you for posting on the HP Forums. Have a great day!
    Please click the "Thumbs Up" on the bottom right of this post to say thank you if you appreciate the support I provide!
    Also be sure to mark my post as “Accept as Solution" if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others who face the same challenge find the same solution.
    Dunidar
    I work on behalf of HP
    Find out a bit more about me by checking out my profile!
    "Customers don’t expect you to be perfect. They do expect you to fix things when they go wrong." ~ Donald Porter

  • Power supply and ADC monitor.

    Hi everyone!
    I know my topic title is a little tricky but I am ready to explain what is going on.
    My G4 1.25 MDD stopped working today.
    I have spend whole day searching/reading to find out what is happening.
    Result....I dont have a clue.
    I have test the:
    power supply voltage.OK
    power switch. OK
    Battery. OK
    I have done all the usuall resetings.NO help.
    I have try the keyboard from my old Gigabit ethernet that haw a power switch.Didn't work.
    Then I thought to connect my old studio display...and......my mac woke up!Its alive....for now!
    It starts up only with the display connected and from its power switch.some random times it starts from its own power switch but its very rare.
    What it going on here?
    Do I have a faulty PS or something else is happening?
    Thank you very much and Happy new year!!

    Hi Allan.
    Yes the model is M2452 but it doesn't startup any of my two G4 MDDs.Maby its bad...I don't know.
    The FPB isn't bad because I have place it to my other G4 and it is working fine.
    I think that I should look at the cable from the FPB to the motherboard and the connecton on the MB.
    It is very weird that the PS is working just fine without any problems so far(crossing fingers).
    Its just that I have to power it onn from the studio Display.

  • Prime Infrastructure 2.1 - Power supply alarms on switchs

    Hi,
    How can i manage to get a email if one of my power supply on a switch die (see the attached file).
    I tried to activate all snmp traps possible on my switch and all i can get is configuration management events on PI.
    I changed the Severity Configuration on PI for Environmental monitor detects a testpoint reaching a critical state to critical.
    Any ideas?
    Sorry for grammar, english is not my native language.
    *** Prime Infrastructure 2.1, we will upgrade for 2.2 in few weeks***

    Hello,
    It's tracked by the following bug:
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    Ram

  • Prime 2.2 Power supply alarms

    doing some testing in a new data centre with Prime 2.2 and wondering if there is a way to be immediately notified in the event I lose a power supply or a fan.
    I thought I had all the monitoring turned on but when I pulled a power supply I had to re-sync the device before Prime knew about it and then it still never notfied me.

    hey
    i have issue aswell to get snmp poll working optimal so atm in pi i am working more on snmp trap and syslog as the way to get the notification.
    snmp-server trap-source [interface]
    snmp-server host [pi-ip] (vrf [vrf name]) version 2c [community string]
    snmp-server enable traps envmon supply
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  • Choosing the Right Power Supply

    First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
    If you want to know more, read on...
    Choosing The Right Power Supply
    If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
    (As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
    The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
    Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
    Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
    For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
    I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
    But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
    So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
    K7N2G-ILSR
    Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
    AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
    2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
    MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
    ATI Radeon 9600
    120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
    30GB Quantum IDE
    TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
    BTC DVD-ROM Drive
    Artec CD-R/W
    Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
    I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc.  Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
    Not yet.
    I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
    Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
    Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
    However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
    I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
    Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
    In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
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    Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
    I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
    William Hopkins
    Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
    B.A., B.S., with Honors
    The University of California, San Diego
    [email protected]
    P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
    P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

    Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
    First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
    Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
    Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
    Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
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    So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
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    http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
    i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

  • I want to remove the monitor from my 17" Macbook Pro 2008 to use as an external for my Macbook Pro 15" 2012. How can I convert lvds to Thunderbolt and power the monitor?

    I want to remove the monitor from my 17" Macbook Pro 2008 to use as an external for my Macbook Pro 15" 2012. How can I convert lvds to Thunderbolt and power the monitor?

    It's almost impossible.  The new iMacs have a Target Display Mode, but it's built to do that.  Without ripping your screen out, finding an acceptable power supply, frame, and whatever electronics to convert a Thunderbolt signal to the screen, the cost will be much larger than buying a cheaper HiDef monitor that runs with an HDMI to Thunderbolt cable to your MacBook 15.  In fact, you can sell your 17" MBP for a lot of money, unless it's broken or something, buying you a really sweet monitor.
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  • Power supply fan dead - help? (400mhz AGP G4)

    Hello!
    Unfortunately, my PowerMac G4, a 400mhz, AGP Sawtooth model, has a dead fan.
    Over the last few weeks, I've noticed that my G4 has been running quite hot. I figured it was due to the hot dorm room that it's being used in. Then, I noticed that when it booted up, it would occasionally make a vibrating, or rattling noise - I figured the fan was wobbling. Since air was comming out of the fan opening at the top, I didn't worry about it.
    Today, I used the "Temperature Monitor" widget to check the temperature of my SMART Hard drive (the G4 itself is not sensed). It was 133 degrees!!! This is the bay on the back-right, just under the CPU fan. I looked at the fan again - not much airflow. I pulled out a flashlight and pointed it in, and the Fan that's inside the power supply unit is dead.
    So, how can I fix it? It's far far too hot, so it's not usable until I can cool it off. The first idea I had was to take a particularly powerful desk fan, and make a paper "tube" that connects both to the G4 and back of the fan - so it'll pull the hot air out. Needless to say, this is not a good log-term plan as it's easy to fall apart and will have leaks, but it works for now. I realize you can buy power supplies, but for ~$100, it's far too much for the old G4.
    Second idea: The fan is inside the "non-user servicable" power supply, but it's also next to the back of the G4 - right inside what appears to be a panel that holds the power supply in. At the very least, I'd like to make sure that the cable is attached and not loose, but I have to open the back. Is that possible or safe? If so, can I replace the fan?
    My third idea was to attach an extra fan to the inside of the G4, on the outside of the power supply - pushing in. Unfortunately, the IDE cable from the DVD drive is in the way, and there's not much room for a fan. Plus, there's no fan power supply. Is it possible to convert an ATA power plug (there are 7!) to a fan-power supply? I'd require a small circuit and a lot of resistors, obviously! If so, what would I need to do to convert it?
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    15" 1.67 Powerbook G4 (Jan 2005), 400 mhz AGP Sawtooth G4   Mac OS X (10.4.8)   4G Clickwheel and 5G Vid iPods, 2G iPod shuffle

    Thanks!
    Interesting, this "Piggy back power adapter" will allow me to plug the fan into one of the ATA/IDE cables? Or do you mean the extra port on the power supply? (it has one plug for the outlet>G4, then another to support something like a monitor or similar) The G4 has a DVD burner, but no ZIP drive, so this is quite do-able if it uses the ATA power.
    When you say "lower rear", do you mean at the bottom? Below the power supply, to the right of the PCI slots? If so, this is the inflow for the CPU fan! I can understand mounting it outside the current outflow-vent for the dead power supply fan, although I'm not sure the best way to proceed with attaching the fan.
    Another question: what tools and supplies will I need? I may need to remove the plastic cover on the back of the G4 - the one that is outside the power supply - as there's a gap between the gray plastic and metal chassis that lets air from outside the machine come in. The screws for this cover use a funky, hexagonal screwdriver. If I need to take this cover off, what kind of screwdriver will I need? Also, should the fan not include screws/etc, what's the best method to attach it? Glue?
    Secondly, to cut a hole in the G4, will I need some variety of drill? I don't have one, so i'll have to borrow one... Since there's nothing in the ZIP slot, I can run a cable out through here (assuming it's long enough), and make a new bezel to keep the airflow inside intact.
    Ah! One other (somewhat related) question: my USB 2 card includes a power adapter, for use when several un-powered devices (flash drives) are attached. It works just fine with a flash drive and a small media reader, but it's slow to sense the drives - I think it's low on power. Unfortunately, this power plug uses the same variety of plug as the floppy disk drives found on many win-boxes - of which the G4 possesses none. Is there an adapter/cable for this purpose?
    Thanks, this is a HUGE help, I appreciate it.
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