Startup delay with new HDD

I cracked my late 2006 iMac 24" open and replaced the stock drive with a Velociraptor. It's been working great, except for the fact that it has introduced a 30 second delay at system startup. This is a delay at the grey screen stage, before the apple logo appears. There doesn't seem to be any drive activity during this delay. I've repaired permissions, fsck'ed, and eliminated all peripherals except for the keyboard and mouse.
Any ideas on how to fix this?

Check the setting in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
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Replace HDD w/ Win 8 with new HDD w/Win 7

Just bought a HP Pavilion 17-e067cl Notebook PC from COSTCO. I want to remove the factory installed HDD with Win 8 and the factory load on it and replace it with a new HDD and load Win 7 on it
Is there anything in the BIOS that would prevent me from doing this? If so, can the settings be modded to accomplish my plan?
I intend to use an identical bare drive and load Win 7 on it.
Will a new, retail copy of Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64bit Full System Builder License and Media, GFC 020250 (1 machine, 1 license) be the correct version of the OS install. I want Home Prem.
My intention is to keep the original HDD with Win 8 in case warranty issues arise in the future or will the motherboard marriage be a problem?
details for the laptop:
prod #: F9L64UA#ABA
HDD: ST750LM0 22 HN-M750MBB SATA (Samsung)
BIOS: F.22
Sys Board: 1984 01.13
Memory: 8GB SODIMM Samsung 1600MHz
CPU: AMD A8-5550M APU with Radeon(tm) HD Graphics
disclaimer: my last cert was on Win XP, so I am way behind the curve on Win 8.
Thanks in advance!
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View Solution.

****Disclaimer*****
HP doesn't recommend the installation of Windows 7 on a computer shipped with Windows 8, nor will it support the installation of Windows 7. HP will not provide Windows 7 drivers and suitable drivers may not be available for the hardware in the computer. Also, Windows 7 may not support some of the hardware or software features designed for the computer.
Make sure you create your HP Recovery Discs or USB Flash Recovery media before modifying or changing ANYTHING... even if you are going to swap in a new HDD.
You will need to DISABLE "Secure Boot" and maybe ENABLE "Legacy Support" in the "BIOS Secure Boot cofiguration" on the settings page shown below, before you can attempt to install Windows 7;
or
Some of the information below will vary depending on the HDD being partitioned as MBR or GPT, and/or booting the Windows 7 installation media as Legacy or UEFI.
Additionally, as the hard drive may be partitioned as GPT, you may have to boot the computer using the "UEFI - CD/DVD drive" or "UEFI - USB Flash drive" options in the "F9" boot menu. If "UEFI - CD/DVD drive", "UEFI - USB Flash drive" or something to that effect doesn't exist in the boot menu, please post a screen shot and/or descibe the listed boot options.
I suggest using Windows 7 SP1 for the best intallation experience. If you need Windows SP1, please see "How to Install Windows 7 Without the Disc" to download and create your own Windows 7 SP1 disc. If the DVD refuses to boot as UEFI, you may need to use a USB Flash drive (may require DISABLING "Fast Boot" in the BIOS) as the installation media. Please download the Windows 7 USB/DVD download tool to create a Windows 7 SP1 USB Flash drive. Please note that some computers may not recognize a valid UEFI enabled USB Flash drive if it is formated as NTFS and may require a FAT32 formatted USB Flash drive. You should be able to make a FAT32 formatted Windows 7 installation USB Flash drive using Rufus, UNetbootin, Universal USB Installer, or WiNToBootic. I like Rufus, as it has options for "GPT partition scheme for UEFI computer" and "FAT32".
Most of the Windows 7 drivers from the HP Pavilion g7z-2100 CTO Notebook PC Drivers page should work on your computer, however you may need to source some drivers directly from the chipset manufacturers's support sites.
Please post the Windows Device Manager's "Hardware Ids" for any additional missing or unknown devices as shown in the example below;
If you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
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Two startup quirks with new Mac Pro

Just upgraded from an aging Power Mac G5 to a Mac Pro (with new 24" Cinema Display replacing my old ADC Cinema Display).
So far so good overall. But two odd startup quirks have popped up.
First, with my old setup, when I restarted the Mac, the startup chimes would sound through my external speakers. Now, the sound (barely audible) comes from the Mac Pro itself. Not a big problem. But I'd rather hear the sound through the speakers. I am wondering if there is any way to get the Pro to do this.
Second, I have a second display (connected via the DVI port). When I turn on the Mac, the DVI display comes up first and shows the startup gray and blue screens. The Cinema Display (even though it is the monitor with the menubar) does not come on until the Desktop background appears. With my old Power Mac G5 setup, the Cinema Display came on immediately and showed the startup screens. Again, not a big deal. But I am wondering why the shift and if it can be shifted back.
As I write this, it occurs to me that these two matters may have essentially the same cause (e.g., components not coming on as soon as expected). Just a thought.

Hi mfiman,
I can only answer your first question, since I don't have a two-display setup.
With the introduction of the very first Mac Pro in 2006 Apple seems to have changed the behaviour of the startup chime to only come from the internal speaker.
To my knowledge this can not be changed (have it too !).
Regards
Stefan

Best way to manage new library with new hdd. Need Advice.

I am new to this whole aperture thing. i've been reading about aperture for a few months now. there's just so much to soak in at this moment. i'm about to put in a 320gb hdd in my 1st gen mbp and i would like the best or really just the most efficient way to managing my images. what i am trying to do is import all my images (20gbs right now just family/friend stuff) into my mbp on the new hdd. i am also in the process of getting a 30d or 40d for my photo work.
should i partition out the new hdd for aperture or just keeping it one partition. one of my partitions will be for bootcamp. i just dont want to partition it and run out of space in the partition. i also have 2 externals (300gb and 400gb) that i will use one of them for vault?, external backup. im also trying to scan all my film stuff and put it in there and manage that too. i also want to use iphoto too so is there a way to use one library for both without one or the other making doubles?
i read about the manage and referenced masters methods, but i'm still a little confused on it. i would like to know how you guys manage your libraries and how u organized your folders. i read about people setting up raids on their mac pros but i would like to know more about people who doing the managing on their mbps. i running on leopard but are not using time machine. i currently have my folders setup in this way, i.e. 20080224-vacation pics day 1. there's prolly more to ask but i cant think of any right now. any help is appreciated.

On a laptop generally you do want to manage by Referencing image Masters. Hard drives slow as they fill, so at some point - perhaps immediately - you will want your Masters on one or more external Firewire 800 hard drives. OWC <http://www.owcomputing.com/> "Mercury to go" FW800/USB2 drives are a good external solution if you need portable.
A good rule of thumb is not to fill any drive more than 70%, and for best speed keep important drives no more than 50% full.
With Referenced Masters, simply Finder-copy each batch of images to the external hard drive and eject the camera card. Then (after backup of images) from within Aperture Import the images by Reference (when you go to import, on the right hand side of the import window select "Store files in their current location").
Existing images on your hard drive can similarly be imported selecting "Store files in their current location" however personally I would move the originals to an external drive prior to importing into Aperture because trying to keep originals on a laptop drive will sooner or later overfill the drive.
During the import process is a good time to assign all manner of keywords, so take some time in advance thinking about keywording.
Also, I recommend the US$35 tutorial CD Apple Pro Training Series: Aperture 2 (Apple Pro Training Series) by Ben Long, Richard Harrington, and Orlando Luna (Paperback - May 8, 2008), Amazon.com. Note that the value is in the tutorial, not in using the book as a manual.
Good luck!
-Allen Wicks

Problem with New HDD and installation of Qosmio Player

Hi All,
Hope someone can help, I have had my Qosmio for 2 1/2 years now and recently had a problem with the hard disk. I decided to replace the hard disk as this was the quickest solution. The problem I have now is that I cannot receive TV on media center. I was trying to install qosmio player on the HDD to see if it made any difference but when I run the recovery disk supplied the software tells me that there is not enough disk space!!. The laptop came with a 60G hard disk and the new HDD made by the same manufacturer is a 150GB, can anyone help me out with this one would be appreciated.
Thanks
ED.

Qosimo F10.
Sorry my previous entry was garbled. I upgraded the HDD to 120, could not get the Qosimo player to reload, same error, No space on HDD.
I then upgraded to Vista and downloaded the new Vista Qosimo drivers, created the ISO image and booted from it. Still did not work.

Qosmio F10 - cannot install WXP with new HDD

My F10 doesn`t start from hard disk anymore and because of the obvious sound from the hard disk it is certainly broken. I have changed the build in Toshiba hard disk with 80GB for a Toshiba hard disk with 60GB.
I put a Windows XP Installation disc into the drive and pressed C at the start for booting from the CD. It doesn`t start the installation but instead it says that I have to remove the hard disc.
Why? Is it only possible ti install an identical hard disc because there is no bios?
PLZ HELP!!!

Hi
Is your new HDD recognized in BIOS properly?
Check this!!
Furthermore when you get exactly the message from Windows installation and what will be displayed exactly?
Can you try it with Toshiba recovery disk, please?

Problem with new HDD for Imac

I have installed a new HDD on my Imac power PC (!0.4.7) On powering up the disk utility can see the new HDD, but it says it is unmounted and it is not visible in list of volumes available for installing the OS. How can I wake it up?

You need to format it as Mac OS Extended (Journaled) in Dick Utility.
You do this by selecting Erase from the options at the top of the window.

Office 2013 Startup Problem with NEW Win 8.1 Install and no prior Office Version

Although I have seen similar threads on the forum, they all seem to address a different scenario.
My environment is as follows:
Intel MotherBoard with I07 max processor
64GB RAM
512 GB SSD Boot drive on which Windows 8.1 was installed as first and only O/S. It was validated
4TB HDD on which User directory and programs installed (those which permit drive selection in startup)
4TB data drive.
Machine was built from scratch with Win 8.1 Pro plus Media Center
Office 2013 Pro Plus was installed and validated
Machine is running in an MS AD Domain whose PDC is running on Win Server 2008 R2
User is a member of Enterpise and Domain Admin group
HERE'S THE PROBLEM,
Any Office 2013 Pro Plus application (Not Just Oulook) goes through the configuration step EACH time it is launched.

Hi,
Try repairing Office in Control Panel -> Programs and Features, check the result.
You can also try this:
Go to the install folder, such as C:\Program Files\Microsoft Office 15\root\office15, find the .exe file for the application, let's take Word for example, WINWORD.EXE, right click on it, send the shortcut to Desktop, right click the
shortcut -> Properties -> Shortcut -> Advanced -> Check "Run as administrator" -> OK -> OK.
Start Word from the shortcut, you may need to go through the process again, reboot the computer, check if it will show up again when you start Word. If the problem doesn't exist any more, do the same to other Office applications.
Regards,
Melon Chen
TechNet Community Support

Startup keys with new Apple Keyboard and MacBook Pro

Upon powering up my Rev. A MBP, I hold down the OPTION key on the new Apple Keyboard to select my startup disk. Strangely, the startup went straight into the default startup disk that I have chosen previously. I didn't get to selection stage.
I tried with the old/white Apple Keyboard and my MBP keyboard and startup disk selector is A-Okay.
I hooked up the new keyboard to my new Mac mini and did the same thing and no problem.
Haven't tried with the rest of the startup keys like C or X yet with the MBP. Wonder is this a software bug between the MBP and keyboard.
Anyone with similar experience?

Actually, startup keys sequences do work with the Apple Wireless Keyboard (the old white one). I know because I have been using it that way with my Macs, PPC and Intel ones.
I tried Command-V, Command-S, Option, T, C and Shift on the new keyboard with my Rev. A MBP and it goes go straight into the Apple logo.
Swapped back to the old Apple Keyboard with my MBP and tried the keys above and no problems whatever so.
Hooked up the new Apple Keyboard to my new Mac mini and did the same keys without problems.
So, my conclusion is there something between the new keyboard and Rev. A MBP. Maybe someone with similar setup should try wha I did and see if they face the same issues.

Freezes on startup screen with new Battery

laptop works fine with old Battery just battery will no longer hold a charge installed a new Battery freezes on startup screen ran battery test ok got a 2nd new Battery using the numbers off the old one same thing followed hp noteboook pcs testing and calibrating the battery everytime the first part says battery ok the 2nd part says na. reinstall old battery laptop works fine

Thank you for visiting the HP Support Forums and Welcome. I have read about your Compaq-Presario and having an issue with the New battery. Here is a link to test and calibrate the battery.
Plug the power adapter directly into a functioning wall outlet. Do not plug it into a power strip, surge protector, or secondary power source as this could cause and issue.
If that does not help try the Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery is basically the driver that communicates between the computer and the battery. There is a chance that it is corrupted. It is reading the battery level wrong, so the computer thinks the battery level is higher then what is actually is, so when it runs out of juice it shuts down.
Step 1. Go to Device Manager
Step 2. Select Batteries
Step 3. Right click the "Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery" that is listed there
Step 4. Click Uninstall
Step 5. At the prompt put a check in the box to remove the current driver
Step 6. Shutdown the computer
Step 7: Remove the battery for minute and then put it back in
When the computer comes back up it should automatically find the driver.
Step 8. Go to Device Manager
Step 9. Select Batteries
Step 10. Right click the "Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Control Method Battery" that is listed there
Step 11. Click "Search automatically for updated driver software"
Do the same thing with Microsoft ACPI-Compliant Embedded Controller.
Hope this helps.
Thanks.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom to say “Thanks” for helping!

Randon startup failures with new rig

I have just bought an MSI K8T board with Athlon64 and 512MB RAM as a package deal, to replace my PIII/600, Abit-BH6 rig which went belly up. After assembly I discovered that my PSU didn't have the JPW 12V connector for the PSU, so I hustled out and bought a new one.
I get start-up problems. I've stripped right back to the following:
mobo, cpu, ram, video. I've connected front panel LEDs & switches, keyboard, monitor, PSU & d-bracket.
When I boot I get a whole range of failures. Out of ten attempts I get...
7 at processor init
1 at early chipset init
1 at the AMI BIOS System Configuration Screen display
1 at faiing to boot of network (which actually had all four green LEDs on the d-bracket! woo-hoo.
Once I had it try to boot off floppy when the drive was connected.
Any suggestions..? It's driving me mad actually!
Spec of what i'm using ought to be right here on my sig....

Thanks for the comments on the PSU, not at all suprised I bought a piece of junk. I'm now running on the (borrowed) Antec listed below, indeed I am writing this post on the new rig, booted into Knoppix off CD.
However, startup is still very hit and miss, it doesn't seem any different. The fact I booted an OS is only really because I connected the CD drive. Is it possible that I still don't have enough power..? Can on get Mr Fusion (powered the DeLorean time machine in Back To The Future if you recall) for ATX cases.. ;-)
When it does start, it runs just fine - at this point it's been going for 20 minutes.
If only Counter-Strike was pre-installed on Knoppix, i'd be just about ok!
Has anyone else seen this wierd startup problem..?
I'm going to look at memory timings next, just for something to try...

Recovery on Sat Pro C660-2KM with new HDD with restored Recovery partition

Hey Folks,
I had a problem with a virus on that sat pro, so I decided to totally erase the hdd to get rid of that virus. Bevor I did that, I saved everything from partiton D including the recovery path and after erasing of course I copied everything back at it's place (second partition).
Now trying to recover and don't know how to do it. F11, F10 and F8 seems not to work. Do I need the Recovery media created with recovery media creator or can I still use the recovery path on the new D: partition?
Thanks for your help in advance,
Stefan

Hi
> Do I need the Recovery media created with recovery media creator or can I still use the recovery path on the new D: partition?
Toshiba recovery media creator can be used ONLY if the HDD and the partition table has not been modified. In your case the recovery media creator would not work anymore since you delete everything from the HDD and lost the recovery marks.
The only solution: you need the recovery disk and this can be ordered here:
http://backupmedia.toshiba.eu/landing.aspx

Tecra a3 won't boot with new hdd

hi
tecra a3 model no PTA30E-02G008EN
i have a new 250gb hdd that has a clone of my previous (when working ok) hdd using EASEUS.
but it will not boot. after the BIOS it has a blank screen with a flashing white cursor top left.
the hdd appears ok using a usb caddy.
are there any obvious problems such as a maximum hdd size, or a BIOS update i need? Might it work if a split the 250Gb hdd into two partitions?
thanks for your help
mark

Mark, it's possible (but very unlikely) that your BIOS does not support 48-bit LBA. If that were the case, the partition would need to be less than about 137 GB. The information is in here.
   How to enable 48-bit Logical Block Addressing support for ATAPI disk drives in Windows XP
Notice that large HDDs are offered for the Tecra A3.
   250gb hard tecra a3
Sorry, I don't know why the restored disk doesn't work. You could try to restore it to its original out-of-the-box contents using Toshiba recovery media. I'm guessing that would work.
   Toshiba Europe Backup Media Online Shop
-Jerry

Extremely slow performance with NEW hdd

Ok guys, this is pretty frustrating. Today I bought 2 new external hdd's, same manufacturer, same model. One of them seems to work great, but the other one.. well look at this:
/dev/sdk1:
Timing buffered disk reads: 96 MB in 3.04 seconds = 31.53 MB/sec
bash-3.2# hdparm -t /dev/sdj1
/dev/sdj1:
Timing buffered disk reads: 4 MB in 4.30 seconds = 951.52 kB/sec
As you can see, my sdj is extremely slow - what could possibly be wrong here?

fukawi2 wrote:Is DMA enabled in the BIOS?
Probably - If it wasn't the other drive shouldnt behave like normal.
By the way:
bash-3.2# dmesg | grep -i ata.*dma
ata1: SATA max UDMA/133 abar m1024@0xfe02f000 port 0xfe02f100 irq 22
ata2: SATA max UDMA/133 abar m1024@0xfe02f000 port 0xfe02f180 irq 22
ata3: SATA max UDMA/133 abar m1024@0xfe02f000 port 0xfe02f200 irq 22
ata4: SATA max UDMA/133 abar m1024@0xfe02f000 port 0xfe02f280 irq 22
ata1.00: ATA-8: SAMSUNG HD501LJ, CR100-11, max UDMA7
ata1.00: configured for UDMA/133
ata2.00: ATA-7: ST3320820AS, 3.AAD, max UDMA/133
ata2.00: configured for UDMA/133
ata3.00: ATA-8: SAMSUNG HD501LJ, CR100-12, max UDMA7
ata3.00: configured for UDMA/133
bash-3.2#

Computer doesn't get past login screen with new HDD

I recently purchased a new Seagate (750GB Momentus) hard drive for my 2010 Macbook Pro. The first one didn't work well so I sent it in for a replacement, but now the replacement one is having the same issue. When I boot the computer, it doesn't get past the boot screen half the time. When it does, however, I can't get past the login screen; when I click login it flashes white and then goes back to the login screen. Disk utility claims to repair the drive each time that it is run, but always comes up with the same errors after booting. I am totally out of ideas.
Thanks in advance!

Drive Preparation
1. Boot from your Recovery HD. When the menu appears select Disk Utility and click on the Continue button.
2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area. If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing. SMART info will not be reported on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID (for Intel Macs) or APM (for PPC Macs) then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
4. Select the volume you just created (this is the sub-entry under the drive entry) from the left side list. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window.
5. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Security button, check the button for Zero Data and click on OK to return to the Erase window.
6. Click on the Erase button. The format process can take up to several hours depending upon the drive size.
To boot to the Recovery HD restart the computer. After the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and "R" keys until you see the spinning gear.

Startup delay with new HDD

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