Technically Better 24"LED or 30" Cinema?

Could an expert offer some advice? Which is technically better the 24" LED Cinema Display or the 30" Cinema Display? Regardless of what I use it for...
1. What type of panel do each use?
2. In regards to lifetime, will the 24" LED Display outlast the 30" simply because of the LED backlighting vs the CCFL?
3. Can the LED display suffer from ghosting?
Thanks!

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Whats is better to buy today? Cinema display 30" or the new cinema LED 27"?

Hy friends, I'm new in the apple world. I bought macbook air 13", 2.13Ghz, 4GB, 256 SSD. i'd like to buy a big screen to use with it. I don't know if is better buy the new one 27" or one used 30" from my friend. What you think about it? I will use for use trade programs. You know if i can run at max resolution with macbook air? Thanks for all
Mac

I agree with Rodrigo, I too was torn between the 27" and the 30". What really swayed me was going to the Apple store where they had both monitors side by side. I stood there for a while playing with both loading similar applications and evaluating which was easier on my eyes, etc. Even though the color on the 27" may not be as accurate (mostly a concern for photography professionals), it does make photos look rich and amazing. If you are going to watch movies on the display I'd say the 27" is definitely your best bet.
There are some discussions about the glare of the 27". They are right, the glossy screen does reflect quite a bit if you have a light source (like your window) behind you. I say pull the drapes if it's really a big issue and enjoy the benefits of a richer, crisper picture as well as all the other features (built in iSight, speakers, etc.) the 27" has to offer. It's no different than the screen on your laptop and you manage to live with that just fine.
For my Graphic Design work at the office I do still run two 23" Cinemas with matte screens as color accuracy is important. Having over-saturated blacks and richer colors can be an issue. For home use I'd much rather the 27" LED.
If you do go with the 27" LED there is one issue that seems to affect quite a few people (including myself). There is a problem with the sound going out requiring that you unplug the monitor and plug it back in to get the sound back. Apple has recently released a firmware update for the monitor which from my experience has solved the issue. So if you have sound issues just run Software Update and get the new firmware update for the monitor.
Lastly, I don't think I'd want to buy a used display. From my experience the cinema displays do degrade over time. The two I have side by side at work don't even match. One has a bit of a yellow cast and images seem to burn in quicker (not permanently, but it's irritating). They were bought at the same time but one was used more than the other. I tried calibrating both monitors but there's no way to make them match. One more reason to avoid a used monitor. If you really have to have the extra 3" I'd suggest saving up and trying to buy one of the last few "new" 30" Displays out there with a warranty.
Hope that all helps. Good luck in your decision, let us know what you decided on!

Power on light (led) with 23" cinema hd ?

hi, i am used to the "old" apple monitors where there is always a power on light visible.
my new cinema 23" display has only - for a small second - light on when starting up and shutting down. is this normal behaviour ?
tia

Yes. See:
<http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=301944>

23" CFL Apple Cinema Display or 24" LED Cinema Display?

The 24" has some great advantages: LED backlighting (no dimming over time!), speakers, power for a MacBook Pro, a built-in iSight camera.
The big advantage of the 23" display: the matte display. The big disadvantage: it's a significant source of heat, noticeable in the Austin, TX summers.
I'm not a graphics professional, but I worry about the reflections on the 24" Cinema Display. To make matters worse, I have a window directly behind me and my office isn't really reconfigurable.
Am I really better off with the 23" Cinema display?

Unless you really need only the features of one of them. *get both* so you have the right tool for the job. When you need the other's advantage, the changeover is simple.
Of course, if you only need one feature set, buy that one.
If you are concerned about dimming over time, you can buy another 23 if it becomes necessary.
My five-year-old 20 inch LCD is still doing fine and it runs every day (although I have set it to sleep it when it is not used for longer than 3 minutes.) It has dimmed a bit, but certainly not to the point that I ever need to run its brightness anywhere near maximum.
Moreover, in another five years, you may have moved on to the boss's office and the worries will be different!
G5 DP 1.8GHz w/Mac OS X (10.5.7) PowerBook 1.67GHz (10.4.11) iBookSE 366MHz (10.3.9) External iSight

How can I connect my 24" cinema display to a mac book pro retina HDMI output?

Hi folks,
I would like to have a macbook pro retina running three external displays (this is technically feasable):
2 times a 27" Cinema displays through thunderbold ones (connecting them to the Thunderbold output, daysy chaining them)
1 time a 24" Cinema display through mini display port (connecting it to the HDMI output as the resolution matches on both ends 1920 x 1200)
Any idea which adaptor I would need as most of them are only working one way (the wrong way!..)?
Thanks for you numerous inputs ;-)

<http://www.kanexlive.com/xd>
<http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=508267>
<http://www.atlona.com/Atlona-Dual-Link-DVI-to-Mini-DisplayPort-Converter-USB-Pow ered.html>
if you add a HDMI to DVI adapter.

Help! MacBook Air with Cinema Display or iMac?

I've recently been getting much more into Photography, and I would like to do more editing. The only problem is that I'm finding the screen size of my 11" MacBook Air a little too small for it. It's fast enough, but it has quite a small screen, not a lot of storage space....
So my question is, would it be better to add an Apple Cinema Display to it (not necessarily one of the latest ones, I don't mind the older 20" or 23" Aluminium models), or should I get myself an iMac?
I am a student so obviously I will be doing word processing and internet browsing quite frequently, but in all honest my MacBook Air does not move from my desk that much. Any advice would be appreciated! Is having a MacBook in addition to an iMac being greedy?
Thanks!

I'm currently sitting in my office using my MBP and looking at a 24" Samsung display. At home I replaced my 4 year old iMac with a 2 year old 13" MBP which is connected to a similar display. That should be tell you all you need to know!

CS5 and Cineform Converted Files

I have been having trouble trying to Import files into a new CS5 Project Panel. The files in question are my original digitized (from Mini-DV) .mp4 video tapes. The problem is that when I choose to Import and select the original digitized file, the progress bar at the lower right corner of the Premier Pro screen flashes by quickly to completion before disappearing, giving the impression that the file has imported. However, the file (which shows up in the Project Panel) is not there at all. There is just an alias of the imported file remaining. There is also no progress bar as the file is indexed (I'm sorry, I forget the technical term) which led me to believe there was a problem.
I know the person who originally digitized these tapes used Cineform conversion. I believe the reason at the time was to better work with After Effects? I really can't say, however.
So my question is this: Could the problem of not being able to Import these .mp4 files (a RAID drive inside my computer) into the Project Panel be because of the Cineform conversion done at the time? If not, are there any other suggestions as to why these files wouldn't Import? Everything I've found tells me that PP CS5 should be able to Import and edit .mp4 file types without any issues.
I would appreciate any advice on this as I am left with no alternative but to rent a Sony deck and redigitize all of my tapes in order to solve what I hope is the problem. Naturally, this deck rental will be quite expensive and I don't want to spend that money if in fact, there is another reason for the .mp4 file rejection and I might still be able to use those original digitized files.
Thanks much.
Tom

>files in question are my original digitized (from Mini-DV)
The usual process with Mini-DV tape cameras is to connect via Firewire and then you simply transfer the ALREADY DIGITIAL data from tape to computer (Firewire is nothing but a glorified serial port for file transfers)
In any event, you now need to find out what is really inside the files you have that will not import
Read Bill Hunt on a file type as WRAPPER http://forums.adobe.com/thread/440037
What is a CODEC... a Primer http://forums.adobe.com/thread/546811
What CODEC is INSIDE that file? http://forums.adobe.com/thread/440037
Report back with the codec details of your file, use the programs below... a screen shot works well to SHOW people what you are doing
For PC http://www.headbands.com/gspot/ or http://mediainfo.sourceforge.net/en
For Mac http://mediainspector.massanti.com/
http://blogs.adobe.com/premiereprotraining/2011/02/red-yellow-and-green-render-bars.html
If you have a red line over the timeline after importing a video and before adding any effects... your project is wrong for your video... read above about codecs
Once you know exactly what it is you are editing, report back with that information... and your project setting, and if there is a red line above the video in the timeline, which indicates a mismatch between video and project
H.264 will NOT work inside an AVI wrapper http://forums.adobe.com/thread/854115
More information needed for someone to help... click these links and provided the requested information
-http://forums.adobe.com/message/4200840
-http://forums.adobe.com/thread/416679
For CS5 and later, the easy way to insure that your video and your project match
See 2nd post for picture of NEW ITEM process http://forums.adobe.com/thread/872666

After OSX.4.11 update external monitor unresponsive+problems w/sleep etc

I've read some of the recent display problems. Here is my problem and what I've tried, my problem just started 6 hrs ago. I updated to OSX.4.11 a few days ago - eveything worked fine, yesterday I reinstalled epson printer driver as it was crashing and also yesterday I worked for several hours in iMovie 08. Nothing else unusual. This is STRANGE!
Today went to wake my MBP, 2.4 GHZ, 4GB ram, Cinema display 20", wireless keyboard/mouse up from sleep to check mail. Cinema display flickered and then changed to dark blue solid - and unresponsive. Couldn't get external display to function. Never had any problems with it. Tried to restart everything, unplug all cords, etc. Everything started up I got the log in password screen on my external cinema display - typed in my password - then saw my desktop photo for a second and the cinema display flickered to dark blue again and wouldn't change. It was unable to mount the desktop.
I went to my MPB while still connected got the screen on the MBP and saw the desktop but there were sort of black lines through the names of my folder files on my desktop. I then disconnected the cinema display, restarted just the MBP and the screen (of the MBP) that mounted was perfectly normal - no black lines through file folder names.
Then I tried various things. I assumed my cinema display was broken (almost 3 years old). But then I hooked my MBP up to an old 20" cinema display (they kind with 4:5 ratio and plastic all around), I think it uses some kind of converter to the DVI port anyway my MPB worked with that old display fine, desktop fine, but it would not stay asleep - no matter what I tried. I've never had that problem ever before.
Then I took the "newer" 3 year old cinema display (aluminum one) that I use all the time I I suspected was busted and hooked it up to my old Powerbook G4. And it mounted the desktop and worked fine!! The G4 just got updated to 10.4.11. Interesting thing is though when I closed the lid which usually made the G4 PB sleep it shut it down instead of making it sleep. Very odd.
Then I ran down to Apple store and bought new version of Disk Warrior and ran it on my MBP. I've never had anything Disk Warrior couldn't fix. It rebuilt my directory. I then hooked the MBP back up to the cinema display (aluminum) and the same thing happened I got my log in screen after startup, logged in password saw the photo desktop for a second then the cinema display went back to a dark blue screen that was unresponsive. I then ran Disk Warrior again with the cinema display attached to see what would happen. Disk Warrior mounted and I saw the whole process on the cinema display. The cinema display will mount disk warrior but it will not mount the MBP desktop as of 6 hours ago.
I then read these recent posts and tried a "safe" boot. I got my MBP desktop on the cinema display (aluminum) but as soon as I clicked on system prefs the cinema display went to dark blue unresponsive screen.
But the same cinema display (aluminum) works fine with the Powerbook G4 except for some issue with sleep
And the MBP works with an old plastic cinema display except again, it won't stay asleep.
But the MBP and the aluminum cinema display that I've been using together for my photo/video editing for 4 months straight now and I've never had any problems with - they won't work together as of 6 hours ago. That is when I get the dark blue unresponsive screen on the cinema display (aluminum).
Upshot is:
1) Something is up with sleep mode and the OS X.4.11 update on 2 different machines (G4 PB and MBP)
2) Something is affecting the way both the MBP and the Powerbook react with both my cinema displays. The MBP and the 20" aluminum Cinema display are the ones I need to work with and the ones that as of 6 hours ago just lock up in cinema display dark blue screen (almost black but not quite).
Is this a problem with sleep, startup or DVI output and OS X.4.11?
What can I do about it? I need to use my 20" aluminum cinema display it is clearly the better one of my 2 cinema displays. And even if I switch to my 20" older plastic apple cinema display the computer won't stay asleep any longer?
Please, Please I need some help.
Also since this is happening on 2 separate machines and 2 separate monitors there is something odd going on.
Apple tech people, is there a major problem with .11 and sleep and external displays?
Sincere Thanks, Carol
PS Note, I tried all this numerous times with both bluetooth and regular wired keyboards/mice along with MBP and PB keypads.
Message was edited by: oceangrant
Message was edited by: oceangrant

Sorry please forgive me, I'm so exhausted I posted this in MacBook instead of MacBook Pro, I'll try to move it but if I can't I'll try to copy it and post in MacBook Pro, regardless I think there is a problem with the .11 update.
Thanks, C

What the actual bug is in the iPhone 2.0 ActiveSync implementation

There is a serious bug in the ActiveSync client implementation in the iPhone 2.0 software. I'm pretty aware of this as I'm a Sr. Engineering type for another major cellular handset OEM and went through the same issues debugging/QAing development of another client on another handset. Note that I haven't gotten around to picking up a 3G iPhone yet, but updated my existing EDGE 1.0 handset in a 6 hour to the minute iPocalyptic ordeal.
First of all there are some pre-existing conditions in your MS-Exchange server set up that might negate your ability to access Exchange mail with any client, first, OWA services have to be "turned on". If you cannot access Outlook Web Access from the browser on your desktop/laptop, you're SOL, it'll never work. If your Exchange server is behind a corporate firewall, i.e., you have to be on your home network or VPN in to access OWA services, you would be again SOL on using the iPhone.
The implementation bugs would indicate that whomever was in charge of testing it did not have a clue about what they are doing, and/or did not test the client on a wide enough variety of MS-Exchange installations.
A very common setup, like my corporate Exchange servers, involve multiple servers with unmatched security certs, i.e., OWA address is https:/webmail.corpname.com, but actual server name is https://mail.corpname.com, requiring response to a security cert Accept/Deny/View certificate type message that will popup when accessing via a web browser or a PROPERLY implemented ActiveSync client. When you attempt to access a setup like this, which is not uncommon, the response back to the proffered credentials is unexpected, and in the case of iPhone 2.0 you just get an immediate "Exchange acct. verification failed" error message in very fine print at the top of the display (which apparently from the verbiage in a number of posts some people aren't noticing) instead of the security cert popup. This issue should be easily fixable, but will require a software update to the existing 2.0 software ActiveSync client. There are potentially other issues with forms based authentication, but due to the cert issue I can't tell at this point if they exist as well.
The above is referenced specifically to an MS Exchange 2003 server, can apply to some older Exchange versions as well. I don't want to even get into MS-Exchange Server 2007; I can't connect to that either, but there can be a lot of issues further then the multiple server or security cert issue; since there hasn't been an SP2 release for it, it is still technically beta software IMHO. There ARE additional issues, especially if "CAPTCHA" validation is invoked, don't want to even go there...
The general implementation of the MS-Exchange looks distinctly "last gen" and flawed. The first attempt to attempt to garner setup/authentication using only reply address and domain/username input will probably not work on most MS-Exchange installations, and has to fail before you get prompted to input the server URL address. Another potential issue is that there is NO SSL On/Off control even on the extended setup page; and you do not see that the setting is defaulted to SSL "On" until after the entire setup fails and you go back through Settings - Mail - Acct details; SSL "On' is the default setting from Microsoft when setting ActiveSync on WinMobile devices, but as often as not should be set to "Off" for many MS-Exchange server installations/setups.
So hopefully 2.0.1 will be released shortly and we will all be able to get ActiveSync connectivity back to our MS-Exchange servers.... I'm not going to bother to pick up an iPhone 3G until this is rectified, what would be the point?
Note to Steve Jobs: If you didn't have an aneurysm/heart attack in the WarRoom today I would be available to ensure embarrassing f*ckups like this don't happen on future launches, and if you move me to the Bay Area will work for short money despite the fact I have 22 years experience in computers/telecommunications 8 1/2 of which bring successful cellular handsets to market, I just need to be two steps above a cardboard box on the corner of 9th and Howard, have your people all/email mine...

After almost 1 week of sheer frustrations, I have been unable to connect my Iphone 3G to my exchange server at work.
I have tried probably every method discussed here, including restoring my iphone 3G several times. My issue has been elevated all the way up to apple engineering, and still no solution.
It appears that the issue is that I cannot connect because my company is using Exchange server 2003 with SP1.
I can connect any Windows Smartphone or Pocket PC and it will sync in what seems seconds….very fast. I have used windows phones connected to our server for more than 4 years, never an issue.
My company has the attitude of we “We don’t want you to connect, you are lucky to be able to use active sync on windows phones!!” So their change is not probable.
Has anyone found a way to connect Iphone 3G to an Exchange Server 2003, SP1?

External Monitor (Dell u2711) problems

Hi all,
I'm an editor and just bought a Dell u2711 to hook up to my MacBook Pro (2.53 GHz, 4GB Ram, NVIDIA GeForce 9400M). The DVI would only support up to 1920x1280 so I bought a mini DisplayPort to DisplayPort adapter and that got me up to my full resolution for the monitor.
HOWEVER... my computer seems to be too slow or the graphics card isn't good enough to support such a monitor. Is this true? When I use the external monitor as extra desk space and put all my FCP windows in it I get this banding on my subjects when they move. It just looks like very slight glitches and the movement isn't displayed so smoothly. I'm working with 1080p ProRes 422.
When I try and use the Dell u2711 as an external video monitor (display all frames) it lags pretty bad and the motion is stuttery and not showing in smooth motion.
Please help. Would I have been better off with the 27" Cinema display? I thought they were pretty similar monitors. Is my laptop or graphics card not up to the task? Just last Nov. or so I got this laptop with what I thought was the best available graphics card Apple had at the time for this laptop.

Go to your Audio / Video Settings >> A/V Devices tab and turn of "Mirror on desktop" for Playback ... this will reduce the load on your system as it will not be trying to decode the video for two separate (and different) playback streams simultaneously ie when using Digital Cinema Desktop Preview to display All Frames then you will not see playback in the Canvas window as well, just on the external preview monitor.
And/Or you could also try setting FCP's System Preferences >> Playback Control >> Gamma Correction to "Approximate" ... according to the manual this can offer a little performance boost (but to be honest I haven't ever tested this).
Choosing Real-Time Playback Gamma Correction Options
Whenever you watch your video on a computer display (such as video displayed in the Canvas, the Viewer, or via Digital Cinema Desktop Preview), Final Cut Pro applies gamma correction to the video to more closely approximate the way it would appear on a video monitor.
Note: Gamma correction is not applied to external video outputs such as DV or third-party interfaces because this correction is inherently applied by external video monitors.
If your computer’s graphics card supports gamma correction, Final Cut Pro automatically uses the card for accurate gamma correction. If your computer has an older graphics card that does not support gamma correction, you have two gamma correction options in the Playback Control tab of the System Settings window.
Accurate: High-quality gamma correction. This option is the most accurate but also requires the most processing power.
Approximate: Lower-quality gamma correction. This option leaves more processing power available for real-time effects but results in less accurate color and brightness rendition.
Tip: If your real-time performance is limited, try changing the gamma correction setting to Approximate (if available).
Hope it helps
Andy

Resolution Problems with 30-inch Apple Display and my new iMac

I'm not very good at computers, so I could use some help. I just bought a new iMac 24-inch, 3.06 Duo and I have an Apple 30-inch display I had connected to my MacBook Pro. Now I can't get a resolution better than 1280x800 and the cinema screen flickers a bit. I bought a mini-DVI to Dvi Adaptor. What else am I doing wrong? The display is enormous on the cinema display and I need to use that for my photography. Help anyone, please?

i'm not sure if you area sking this... but it seems like the info about the iMac is not to do with the problem, but your problem is with the 30 inch screen and the macbookPro?
If you are asking about a macbookPro plugging into the 30 inch screen, these should be able to run full resolution from what i remember,
you need to check that you are NOT trying to run mirrored desktop as this will limit the resolution to the maximum possible of the smaller display (your macbookpro) which will mean you can only go up to 1280x800 but if you uncheck the 'mirror display' option you should be able to set independent settings for each screen.

Extending the 24" iMac G5

Have any professional designers (or anyone) paired the 24" iMac with a 24" LED Cinema display?
I'd like to know if this is possible - I know it is not possible to extend the 24" iMac with a 30" Cinema Display.
Are the graphic rendering capabilities of the 24" LED comparable to the 30"?

You probably don't have a "G5" because there are no 24-inch iMac G5 models. You probably have an Intel-based iMac (which is not a PowerPC "G5"). If it is a 20-inch iMac G5, you cannot connect the 24-inch LED-backlit LCD (Cinema Display) from Apple.
If it is a 2009 Intel iMac model, it has a Mini DisplayPort. The LED Cinema Display connects via Mini DisplayPort, so you can connect it with no adapter. You can also connect the 30-inch Cinema Display, if you get this special dual-link DVI adapter.
http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A
If it is a 2008 or earlier Intel iMac model, it has a mini-DVI port. I do not know of any mini-DVI to Mini DisplayPort adapters, so you will not be able to connect the 24-inch LED Cinema Display (unless there is such an adapter now or in the future). You also cannot connect a dual-link DVI display (30-inch display) to the mini-DVI port. You can, however, connect any standard regular DVI (or VGA) displays to the mini-DVI port with the appropriate adapter. The max resolution for a digital (DVI) display is 1920x1200 (typical 23/24-inch display).
So the real question is, what iMac model to you really have? This might help with the ID.
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/index-imac.html

Nokia Lumia 620 or 520?

I'm stuck between the two. I'm not able to decide which one of the two should i go for! Being excited the additional features of 620, I wana snap this one. But the battery in 620 is smaller than 520. And they say the battery life is mediocre!
Please help me in making a final decision..!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

620 has compass, better screen, (led) flash, front facing camera
520 has a slightly larger screen
My 620 runs well over a day easy on a charge..
Click on the blue Star Icon below if my advice has helped you or press the 'Accept As Solution' link if I solved your problem..

Sony Bravia KDL-52S5100 LCD Picture?

My husband just hooked up our new Sony Bravia KDL-52S5100 LCD with an HD cable box from Comcast. I have seen several Sony LCD's in other people's homes and somehow the picture looked sharper than what I see on ours. Do we have to do any type of tuning to get it to look sharper. It is not grainy but it just doesnt seem as sharp as other HD picutures I have seen.
I dont want to have a fight with my husband who thinks it looks fine but I am wondering if there is anything we can do to make the picture sharper. Thank you for any help with this.

How a tv "looks" is very subjective actually. And many things can effect how a tv looks to a certain person. One person might like one setting and another person something different. Most of the high definition tvs I have seen all look pretty equal if they have the same settings and are fed the same source. They all use the same amount of lines of resolution so the picture should look the same if set up correctly. The differences in prices normally have to do with other features the tvs may or may not have, not the actual display in the tv.
Here are some of the things that can make a tv look different than another:
Screen size and viewing distance. How big a screen is and how far away you are from it can effect how the picture looks. Smaller screens at the correct viewing distance tend to look more "crisp" since the pixels are smaller. A larger tv up close will tend to not look as crisp, especially with a less than perfect source.
Which brings us to source material. What you put into a tv has a large impact on what it looks like. Like said above not all HD content is equal. The person shooting the video has many artistic choices as to how he/she wants to shoot or light the material. Some go for a softer film like look, while other stuff has a very detailed live video look to it. The video always looks more sharp and crisp, but some times looks "too real" for the person directing the film or tv show. The original CSI show on CBS is a good demonstration of this. When they first started shooting in high def it had more of a video feel to it and was very detailed and crisp. Then in later seasons they switched to a softer film like quality which was not quit as impressive on a high def tv. Its still high def, just an artistic choice the director and producer decided to make is all.
Also not everything you see on your hi def cable box is hi def material. A lot of it started out as 480i analog and was converted at some point to a higher resolution. Either by the cable company or your tv. Anytime you do this it effects how the picure looks. When a tv has to convert 480i to its native resolution it can look pretty good to down right crappy depending on how good it looked to start with. And the bigger the tv or higher the resolution the worse it can look. This is why many opt for a 720P instead of a 1080P tv.
Also the tv settings themselves have a huge impact on how the tv "looks" to you. Changing the brightness, contrast and other settings have a big impact on how much detail and "punch" the tv will have when viewed. Does not alway mean its better though. Most tvs on the showroom floor or out of the box are calibrated very poorly with the contrast and brightness set way to high and the colors and saturation are off. They do this to make one tv stand out more when its next to 20 others in a brightly lit store.
Ambient room light makes a difference too. The more ambient light there is or light on the screen can tend to "wash out" the picture. It will not look as crisp and will lose some color and detail to your eyes.
Also how the tv is hooked up to its source matters. In order of quality it goes: HDMI, Component (three cables just for the video), composite ( the cheesy little yellow rca cable for video) and RF (the coaxial cable that screws into the tv's attenna jack). HDMI and component will look pretty close to the same and both will pass high definition signals, HDMI is technically better though. Composite will not look as good and RF will look the worst unless its a digital over the air hi def signal.
So its very possible the TVs you saw that looked "better" may have been hooked up different, may have had better source material, may have had a different screen size and a farther viewing distance. Or they may have had different picture settings with more controled lighting in the room. Its also a possibility the tvs that you thought looked better were actually set up wrong and you just like the brighter picture and over saturated colors.
Something else to consider is to some a properly adjusted or calibrated tv doesn't look "as good" as a stock tv. Simply because its not as bright and the colors have less punch to them because the saturation and tint is set correctly. So the calibrated tv tends to look dim and more subdued compared to a tv that has all its settings ramped up. However the properly adjusted tv will be more accurate, closer to what the director wanted you to see and will last longer. And sometimes the "sharper" tv is actually adding video noise to the picture to make it look more crisp. When in reality its adding things to the picture that should not be there.
So its possible that your husband may have adjusted your tv more correctly or is using a pre set that is closer to what it should be. Normally the "movie" setting is fairly close to what a tv should be.
Without actually putting your tv next to another one and feeding it the same signal its nearly impossible for the average person to tell.
Paul

Will the 24" LCD work on the last version iMac

Hello, I have a 24" iMac (previous generation) with a mini-DVI. How would I go about connecting it a 24" LCD Apple Display?

You're likely referring to the new LED-backlit 24" Cinema Display. I'm not aware of any adapter that allows you to connect a computer with DVI or Mini-DVI (as is the case with your previous gen iMac) to the new 24" Cinema Display's Mini-DisplayPort connector.
They make adapters to use new Macs with their old monitors (mini-DP to DVI), but not adapters to use old Macs with their new monitors (DVI or Mini-DVI to mini-DP).
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Technically Better 24"LED or 30" Cinema?

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