The Eternal Vacuum

"Running VACUUM" on database.
I have 150,000 or so pics in about 400 gigs. Aperture locked up this morning, won't open. I can trash preferences and open the generic program fine. When I try to open my library, it sits on the beach ball forever "loading"
Not sure what has happened to my library.
I've figured out by reading through these forums that I can use the cmd+option to double click my library. It gave me two options, a consistency check and one other. I forget which I told it to do. It has been a couple of hours that it is vacuuming.
How long do I let it go before I have to wonder if it is locked up yet again?
Thanks

it has now been 10 hours later since my first post. Is it normal for "running VACUUM on database" to take that long?
I don't mind if it, just need to know if that is normal. If it is not normal, what to do?
Thanks

Similar Messages

The eternal log in of the spotless iMac

I have an iMac G4, this morning I got a new upgrade on Software Update, so I downloaded it and restarted. Well, I haven't been able to log in since then. I enter my password and it looks like it's going to load my desktop but it just takes me back to the login screen, again and again.
I followed these instructions: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=306840. But it didn't work.
I tried the Safe Boot trick but again I end up in the eternal loop of the log in screen.
Do you guys have any idea of what may help? Since I haven't backed up my Mac I'd prefer if the solution wasn't too radical.
TIA
A very sad Mac user

Rodney: I tried to follow those instructions, I connected the sick iMac G4 to my MacBook via firewire to delete the .plist files but it didn't work cause the G4 freezes and it doesn't show up on the MacBook.
Barry: I tried the Repair Disk thing but First Aid can't find my HD The Archive and Install doesn't work either cause when the Leopard disc asks me where I want the system installed my HD doesn't show up as an option.
I ran fsck and I get this:
** /dev/rdisk0s9
** Root file system
** Checking Journaled HFS Plus volume.
** Checking Extents Overflow file.
** Checking Catalog file.
disk0s9: I/O error.
Invalid node structure
(4, 796)
** Rebuilding Catalog B-tree.
disk0s9: I/O error.
** The volume Brian could not be repaired ***
Supposedly I gotta keep doing it until it tells me that my Mac is ok. I've done it a bunch of times but I keep getting the exact same thing.
Any ideas?

The Eternal Cycle of Rebooting and Reincarnation

Hello, I just got my MacPro back and now it works fine. I edit Canon 5d Mark II footage on it, natively, H.264, 1920.
The folks at We Fix Macs had to send my MacPro to Cupertino for the bigwigs at HQ to fix my problem.
The reason I brought it in was that it insisted on engaging in an eternal cycle of rebooting every 3 minutes or so. The machine would power on properly, complete 95% of the booting process EXCEPT for the final display of the clock and other icons on the very top.
Then it would show the beloved BSOD and commence the whole process again, in an eternal cycle of reincarnation and rebooting. Very Zen and Buddhist and all that, but impossible to get any real work done.
I got it back from Apple HQ 10 days later (yesterday) with a note that it was a "software" problem. Totally helpful.
I asked what I could do to prevent its recurrence. They said to close down your programmes properly and make sure all your software is up to date.
DUH. I do all that.
I don't want to pose an "How long is my piece of string?" type question to this forum, but I was wondering if anyone else had experienced such a philosophically profound, but extremely unhelpful (from a pragmatic view of life), problem.
I don't do video games on this computer, just the Creative Suite 5, updated and current and availing myself of the kind souls on this board via the Web. So it's pretty much just the creative suite and Apple Safari that only visits Adobe sites. Pretty much a dedicated video unit.
Thanks,
Matt Dubuque
100 Trees

Matt,
I know nothing about Mac's, except for that little logo on the top of their laptops... but when similar happens with most PC's, there is a "path," to troubleshoot. BSOD's, on a PC, are most often hardware issues, and next comes driver issues, that bork the OS. Harm Millaard has gathered a bunch of utilities for helping PC-users track down many of those hardware issues, and his tools are linked from this ARTICLE. I have zero clue, as to how much of that material would apply to a Mac - probably some, but maybe not that much.
Now, I am unplesantly surprised that you did not get more from having shipped your Mac to the Death Star, er I mean the Mother Ship...
It sounds like they are about as helpful as the Geek Squad with a PC. I would have thought it most helpful to you, had they pointed out the software conflict, and then given you a few thoughts on how to keep those conflicts from happening in the future, other than the generic, "shut things down properly." As you state, that is NOT your problem - something else is. What did they find? What did they change?
Now, when my wife's new auto does not work properly, I take it into the dealership. I do not expect them to give me a 50-page print out of exactly what was wrong (I doubt that I could understand it, and I used to do 90% of my auto maintenance), but I do want them to tell me what NOT to do, so that the problem does not surface again. That would be helpful, and they have been good at instructing me.
Good luck, and at least you got the Mac working, or at least I hope that you did.
Hunt

How can I delete U2 from my Itunes throughout the eternity?

Hi there, as you know Apple is celebrating whatever by giving some U2's stuff totally free. I don't like their music and i do not want they to appear the whole time in my library. I just wanna delete their music from my cloud. By listening to my music library at random their music always tend to spoil the party.

Go to iTunes Store on the computer you sync with, click on Purchased under the Quick Links sidebar on the right side of the window. The click on "Not in My Library", Albums, and Most Recent. Hover the mouse pointer over the album until the "x" appears, and click on the "x". This will Hide the purchase so it does not show up in iCloud. It doesn't actually remove it, but it makes it "invisible".
Cheers,
GB

Can't add printer, stuck in the eternal "searching for new drivers"

ah, the leopard upgrade mixed blessing continues....
so of course i have no printers available now that i've installed leopard. and of course i need to print TONIGHT. so i went to add the printer while it was plugged into the port - - and this is AFTER reinstalling the drivers from the cd, AND installing all the printer drivers from the leopard cd (this is an epson stylus photo 1400). And i click to add a printer, and the epson stylus does appear in the list, and proceeds to "search for new drivers" before it will let me do anything.... and it spins forever.
it doesnt help that i'm also having the internet problems that many people are having now too.... and i'm not sure if it's consistent, but i think my internet does cut out eventually after it goes into this driver search.
any help at all?
thanks in advance-----
rita

Just wanted to add another voice to this chorus of dismay. While I have properly installed Leopard; re-installed the manufacturer driver (brother HL-2040) reinstalled the Leopard Printer drivers from the optional install Leopard folder, when I go to find printer drivers (none show up initially) I end up getting a pull down menu offering Canon IJ; Epson FireWire;Epson TECP/IP/and HP IP Printing; and that's it. None of the drivers installed show up not even the one brother HL-2040 installed from the manufacturer's disc.(which is all this modest user needs.)
The bottom line: I can't print anything. I tried the reset option mentioned in one of your posts. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Mitchull

The eternal Quicktime Question Mark! Help?

Hi,
I've installed and re-installed quicktime 7.0.3 (the latest for OSX) a few times now and am able to view a single file (ie a movie trailer) once only, and then all subsequent attempts to view media with Quicktime result in the dreaded question mark. The files I am attempting to view are from Apple movie trailers so I can't imagine they're corrupted. (Or are they?)
Can anyone help me please?

Open the HD/Library/QuickTime folder and drag the QuickTime Plugin.webplugin to your desktop (so you can replace it).
Restart your browser for this change to take effect and try movie trailer again.

After downloading iTunes 11.3 for Mac, I get the eternal beach ball

I get that beach ball and I can't do anything else. I restarted several times but no change. I connected iPod but it doesn't even appear. I have Mac OS-X 10.9.4. I need help! How do uninstall 11.3 and go back to the older version?

Please read this whole message before doing anything.
This procedure is a test, not a solution. Don’t be disappointed when you find that nothing has changed after you complete it.
Step 1
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is localized to your user account.
Enable guest logins* and log in as Guest. Don't use the Safari-only “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac.”
While logged in as Guest, you won’t have access to any of your documents or settings. Applications will behave as if you were running them for the first time. Don’t be alarmed by this behavior; it’s normal. If you need any passwords or other personal data in order to complete the test, memorize, print, or write them down before you begin.
Test while logged in as Guest. Same problem?
After testing, log out of the guest account and, in your own account, disable it if you wish. Any files you created in the guest account will be deleted automatically when you log out of it.
*Note: If you’ve activated “Find My Mac” or FileVault, then you can’t enable the Guest account. The “Guest User” login created by “Find My Mac” is not the same. Create a new account in which to test, and delete it, including its home folder, after testing.
Step 2
The purpose of this step is to determine whether the problem is caused by third-party system modifications that load automatically at startup or login, by a peripheral device, by a font conflict, or by corruption of the file system or of certain system caches.
Please take this step regardless of the results of Step 1.
Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed for the test, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards, if applicable. Start up in safe mode and log in to the account with the problem. You must hold down the shift key twice: once when you turn on the computer, and again when you log in.
Note: If FileVault is enabled, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a Fusion Drive or a software RAID, you can’t do this. Ask for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start up and run than normal, with limited graphics performance, and some things won’t work at all, including sound output and Wi-Fi on certain models. The next normal startup may also be somewhat slow.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know your login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
Test while in safe mode. Same problem?
After testing, restart as usual (not in safe mode) and verify that you still have the problem. Post the results of Steps 1 and 2.

The eternal Document export question...

I've tried GroupWise Document Management Tools from cool solutions but
they crash every time on my XP system, and GW 703 backend.
I need to generate a report of library users as we are migrating off of
GW to Exchange (which is lousy BTW, but my opinion does not matter)
I've tried compatibility mode and it does not work.
The only other option I see is docrevue and $1k is out of the budget.
Any other ideas?
Tim

Not even Riva! ;-)
Aldo
"DZanre" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]..
> Dave Parkes wrote:
>
>> As the author of Docrevue, I'm obviously biased <g>, but I don't know of
>> anything else that does something similar.
>
> Indeed, I know of no other product that will do it either.
>
> --
> Danita
> Time to upgrade to GW8!
> http://www.caledonia.net/gw8upg.html

Tiger, Suitcase, the ETERNAL Font problems

I've a bunch of problems here, ALL font related. Brand new computer, kick *** machine, more font problems than ever.
First off, I have fonts I deleted off the entire computer, BUT they are ALL still showing up in all CS2 applications. As a matter of fact, the one's I NEED which I didn't delete, and still show up in FONTBOOOK, are not replacing.
So, 1. How do I get rid off these fonts? I did an entire computer search for the fonts, and they aren't anywhere. Yet they still show up in ONLY the application font menu's.
2. What is up with the font issues between FONT BOOK, OS X 10.4.8 and Suitcase 10?
I am infuriated with the horrible font "mismanagement" between these 3 pieces of software.
Anyone with any suggestions, ideas and fixits, inquire within. At this point I'm going to reinstall from the factory specs (installing all the multi-language fonts and all is a recipe for disaster!) and start anew.

Are the fonts you're putting into that folder OS 9 fonts or OS X fonts?
I haven't used Suitcase in nearly 12 years and have no idea how Suitcase Fusion works with old-style fonts in OS X. If you think SF might have altered your old OS 9 font files in any way, make sure the ones you put in your System Folder/Fonts folder are copies of the original old fonts, not ones that have been touched by Suitcase.

Can I use a mini vacuum to clean keyboard?

I've had my macbook pro for about 1.5 years and I have not cleaned it once (internally). Yesterday I upgraded my ram and it was disgusting how much dust was in there, I have a mini vacuum and 2 cans of compressed air in the mail, now this is my plans:
1. Take off the keys individually and use the mini vacuum.
2. Take off the back case and use compressed air can (mini vacuum around the edges).
Please tell me if this is acceptable, it's gonna be so dusty i think i'll need the mini vacuum for the back part?C
EDIT: Is it best I just use the vacuum whilst the keys are still on?
Advice is welcome thanks!!

Here it goes.
Don't take keys off.
Use canned air.
Use vacuum cleaner specially made for vacuuming computers/electronics.
Best.

Multiple-point Hardware And Software Failures in Two, Separate and Not-connected Computers At The Same Time...

A few days ago, I was working on a restoration of a 100-years-or-so-old Calculus book on one of my Linux based computers, while my other computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system was serving as Broadcast TV receiver with its USB HDTV tuner
in the afternoon. The weather in Los Angeles was summer-like in November, with clear skies and 90 degree Fahrenheit temperatures. All of a sudden, my Linux based computer halted in the middle of the processing it had performed hundreds of times
before in hotter days. It would not restart. The entire boot block of the disk seemed to have been garbled. This did not seem even feasible at all, so I decided to shut its power off for a while. It came back up after a while,
and everything looked normal. Then, it did the same thing again. I decided to open its cover and check on its multiple fans as there was nothing else that could go wrong.
I then noticed that the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista Operating system which had been receiving the broadcast TV, was displaying a freshly-booted log-in screen. It had "Blue-screened" while I was working on the other computer
across the large room. This again did not seem any feasible as there had been utterly no connection between these two computers. Even the AC power line circuit was different. Furthermore, this computer had the most extensive air-cooling system
I had built to have it work through 107 degree Fahrenheit temperatures indoors. Anyway, I logged back in and started the broadcast TV reception again. Sure enough, after a while it "blue-screened" one more time...
I went back to the Linux-based computer and found all of its fans operating, but with somewhat hotter disk drives. The problem was that in hotter days, the same computer had cooler disk drives with nothing different. I concluded that somehow
the 80 mm fan mounted in the front side of the case, with its side with rotating blades clamped on the perforated part of the steel case serving as the fan grill, was starting up fine. But, as the time passed the spring-loaded rotating hub was slowly
drawn toward the perforated steel case by two means: The partial vacuum formed by the suction generated by the blades of the fan, and by the magnetic attraction of the rotating hub with electro-magnets in it to the partially magnetized, perforated steel casing.
The first effect was always there, so it was not the real cause, but once something else came along, it really helped the latter. The hub was slowly drawn to the perforated steel casing due to magnetic attraction, with the holes in the casing
inducing a huge air-drag on the hub blades as there was no by-pass around to supply the extra-air needed to reduce the partial vacuum. In addition, the rotating hub with the electro-magnets now was very close to the conducting metal surface and the induced
eddy-currents in the metal by the moving electro-magnets had added even more drag on the rotating hub, causing it to come nearly to a halt. The disk drive electronics was heating up and was causing DMA access faults which in turn caused the Linux kernel
to panic and halt.
Well, this was nearly unbelievable, but true... I had not brought any magnets into the room and I still do not know how the computer case got magnetized. It has been working at the same location for years. The solution was to move the fan
away from the perforated steel casing a little so that some air could come in through the gaps on the sides of the fan (hence supplying a by-pass), reducing the partial vacuum in front of the fan. This kept the rotating hub far enough away to prevent
the massive induced eddy-current drag from slowing the fan down to a halt. The computer now works perfectly with the very same fan as it has had been doing for years.
The real solution is to saw the perforated part of the steel casing in front of the fan away, and to replace it with a better fan grill. The best fan grill material I have found is the finely perforated, thin, black aluminum sheet that is usually
used as a car audio speaker grill. In fact, I use these in my Microsoft Windows Vista based computer. The fans are quieter, with more air flow. It also keeps dust away and you can brush the collected dust off easily.
The next problem was the halting of the computer with the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system with a blue-screen. The fans in it could not be the cause of this, as it had already had the best improvements I could put in it, with even
externally powered fans that did not load the computer power supply. And, all of the fans were working well. In the meantime, the Microsoft November 2014 updates for the Microsoft Windows Vista came out, and as usual I told the computer to
load and to implement them. Sure enough, the computer again "blue-screened" in the middle of the update procedure.
That was somewhat too much, but there was nothing else I could do other than to debug it. I had not changed anything in the computer and its power supply, completely internally updated by myself a few years ago, was working perfectly. Whatever
was causing it was not in the hardware. It was not in the November 2014 software updates either as it "blue-screened" before those were announced. I brought the computer back up after several disk and other software checks and after the
completion of the updates, I gingerly turned the network modem on. I then sent the reports on the six failures (three "blue-screen" type failures and three "Anti-malware Executable" failures) to Microsoft with all of details
requested using the Microsoft Windows Vista problem reporting system. Within minutes, the Microsoft came up with a diagnosis that the USB driver code in the system had a serious bug. I had not changed this code in years. It suggested that
I should use the "Microsoft Fix-It" for this problem and it pointed to a link to download it. I did download it. It ran and the "blue-screen" problem just went away, as if it had never been there...
-- Yekta

I ordered the capacitors on Friday and they arrived on Monday, November 17, 2014. I removed the motherboard from the machine, by removing all PCI and AGP boards, drive and fan connectors and the computer power supply first. The motherboard then
simply unbolted from the case and came out with the CPU fan assembly still attached.
I wrapped the solder side of the motherboard with aluminum foil and set up a work place with the aluminum foil under the motherboard and myself electrically well grounded. Here came another surprise: There were four more capacitors of the same
kind just behind the CPU fan assembly and their tops were also deformed with one of them leaking the electrolyte inside from the the top. Luckily, I had ordered more than two capacitors to get the quantity discount and the lower rate of shipping.
I do use them in other circuits I occasionally build.
Technically, the only thing one needed to do was to unsolder the six old capacitors from the motherboard and to solder six new ones in in their place with the correct polarities. However, due to fact that the capacitors span the 3.3 V power plane and
the ground plane in the multi-layer motherboard, it is nearly impossible to unsolder these capacitors using regular, fine-tip soldering irons. The thick copper of the power and the ground planes carry the soldering iron heat away very fast, preventing
the solder from melting quickly. Continuous application of heat at this point will simply burn the internal insulating epoxy layers and cause shorts inside the motherboard which are impossible to fix in any reasonable amount of time.
The only reasonable way to remove these capacitors was to dismantle the capacitors from the top leaving their already soldered leads in place. The new capacitors were then tack soldered to these stubs using lead-free, hard solder. However, the
CPU fan assembly and the CPU itself had to be removed from the board to be able to work on these capacitors.
To dismantle the capacitors from the top, I first drilled small holes at the tops of the capacitors at the intersections of the indentations using the tip of a hobbyist's knife. I then used needle nosed pliers to peel back the triangular sections
of aluminum from the center at the tops to their bases at the top edges of the capacitors. Next, I removed the plastic layers covering the outside of the capacitors by scoring the plastic layers first from the bottom to the top using the tip of
the hobbyist's knife and peeling the plastic layers off starting at the cut. The following step was to cut the aluminum cans of the capacitors from the top to the bottom using the hobbyist's knife like a can opener. One could not use a saw like
tool here to accomplish the feat as the saws generated very fine metal chips which were very hard to remove and were certain to cause shorts in the densely populated mother board. The cans were then peeled off the rest of the capacitors starting from
the top at the cuts using needle nose pliers, revealing the spiral-wound metal-paper layers of the capacitors.
The wound layers of the capacitors were peeled off layer by layer by cutting into the layers from the top to the bottom, leaving only the two aluminum electrodes which were crimped and soldered to the leads of the capacitors. The picture below shows
the six capacitors with one of them dismantled (left) and with all of them dismantled (right):
The black disks below the aluminum electrodes are the rubber plugs covering the bottoms of the capacitors. The rubber plugs were then cut in half using the hobbyist's knife and removed using the needle nose pliers. It was not possible to
solder to the aluminum electrodes, so these were trimmed at the point they were crimped on the leads of the capacitors, leaving only the stubs of the capacitors' leads soldered to the motherboard.
The new capacitors with suitably trimmed leads were then soldered to these stubs with the correct polarities using lead-free, hard solder. The capacitors were lightly bonded together using a flexible glue to prevent them from moving. The picture
below shows the new capacitors as installed into the motherboard:
I then assembled everything back together and turned the computer on. The BIOS complained on the boot screen that the CPU was out of its socket and it needed to be reset. I set BIOS parameters correctly to their original values. The computer
came up and worked without any problems. I typed this message on my newly repaired computer running the Microsoft Windows Vista operating system.
By the way, the manufacturing date on the motherboard is 09/12/2002 and the CPU is a Socket-478, 2.4 GHz, Intel Pentium-4.
-- Yekta

Can anyone assist with a report that extracts the External ID field in the CRM

I have a membership system where the client has imported 3600+ records some of which had the Eternal ID ('Your ID field on the import file) set and some don't.
The trouble is I need to update all the CRM records and can't import the changes as I don't know what the original external id value is. Business Catalyst support advised that they can't include this field in any report (don't get me started on that...) and I am now desperately in need of some way to get that data which is on the file and is critical to any further updates via the import files. I would delete all the records and start again except that there is no bulk delete option in BC CRM - yes you can do it in products but not CRM or Web Apps...!!! The only option available in BC is to delete one screen list at a time but then I have the issue that this matter does not relate to all CRM records - only those whio are members of a secure zone.
My need is urgent so any assistance free or otherwise would be approeciated and the solution needs to be one that enables me to run such an export on an irregular basis.

OK... thanks to those who offered assistance and I now feel somewhat a goose but then not altogether.
BC in its usual style of help documentation, are not at all clear in their explanation of how the Unique Id (which is actually the field 'External ID' in th CRM under the Misc section). Below is the description extracted from the import template
The above columns represent all the available columns that can be imported using the standard contact import feature. Columns do not need to contain information but they must be present on the page, especially if a proceeding column contains information.
If your organization uses its own unique identification number to differentiate between customers then use the Your ID column. If a value is present in this column then it will serve as the unique identifier. This means if the contact was previously imported and it is being re-imported then his or her details are updated, otherwise a new contact record is created regardless of whether a similar contact already exists in the system.
If the Your ID column is not used then contacts are generally identified by their email address. The minimum requirement to import a contact into the system is that either Your ID, Email Address, Fullname, firstname or last name must be present on a single row. If these values are missing the the row is not imported and the import will move to the next row.
If you don't provide Your ID nor an email address and only a name then the contact is added each time regardless of whether a similar one already exists in the system.
Now my understanding is that if you have used the Your Id then being the unique identifier and as such all future imports would have to use that... Well no this isn't the case at all.
If you import a set of records that all use the Your Id you can simply update those same records with just the email address - you don't need to Your Id or External Id at all!!! So what is the purpose of this field at all? I have no idea myself as it can't be reported, it can't be exported, it can't be referenced - in fact the only way you will ever see it is to open the CRM record and expand the Misc details and buried at the bottom you will find it. Now that is what I call an undocumented feature !
So end of it all is - my concerns all proved baseless and you don't have to concern yourself with the External / Your Id field no matter what the customer does.
My advice - forget this field exists and don't bother trying to use it unless you might happen to be interfacing into some 3rd party system through PAI's as this seems to be the only use I can think of for it.

I'm working on my iMac PowerMac8,2 PowerPC G5 (3.1) 2 GHz machine and have been having problems with the computer shutting down unpredictably. After the problem becoming impossible to work with, I shut the machine down. Now a little better, but reoccuring

I'm working with my iMac PPC G5, PowerMac8,2, 2 GHz machine running OS X 10.4.11, and was having a problem for a while with the machine shutting down unexpectedly. There was no clear pattern to when it was shutting down as far as I could tell. For a while, it would also not restart when buttoned on.
I set the machine aside for a while, probably a month or more, and then got it back out after its rustication. It started up and runs significantly better than it had been, but I have noticed it shutting down sometimes now again, though not as frequently as before. Sometimes it runs for a good long time between active work, sleep mode, and active work again. Once in a while it does shut down when no one is working on it (while asleep). But now it always restarts when buttoned on.
I've done the thorough vacuuming of any dust from the unit vents. I wonder if there's anything else I should try. In most other ways the machine works pretty well and has become the family desktop for basic uses, so I'd like to keep it running if I can. A little frustrating to not be able to upgrade all programs (iTunes) to useable versions, but that's another story....
I would appreciate any ideas about the shut down problem.
TCC

Option 1
Reset your PRAM. Press and hold down the Command Option P R keys while starting your computer. You will hear the startup chime. continue holding down those keys until you hear the startup chime a second time. Release the keys. If the computer restarts, you will need to reset your Date and Time. It might be time to replace your PRAM battery. The G5 iMacs require a 3 volt CR2032 lithium watch/camera battery like below:
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/CR2032/
You can find these batteries at Walmart, Kmart, Target, most local drugstore chains, for between $3-$5, or at Radio Shack for $12-$20.
If you have any G5 iMac model EXCEPT the iSight version, you can probably do the battery install yourself. Watch this video on upgrading your iMac's RAM to show you how to remove the back of your iMac, if you don't already know how:
http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/imac_g5_mem_m/
While you have the back off, use a can of compressed air to blow the dust out the vents at the bottom of the iMac, the fans, and anywhere else you can. Also inspect the 28-30 capacitors on the logic board. Look for dark spots, if they look puffy or swollen, or leaks.
Option 2
Reset the SMC by removing all cables (USB, Firewire, Ethernet, Modem, Power cord) from the back of your computer. Let it sit for one minute. Press and hold the power on button on the back of the iMac while plugging in the power cord. Release the power on button. Count to five, the press the power on button again.
Option 3
Place your original, came with the iMac when purchased install disk, into the slot on the iMac, press and hold the C key while pressing the power on button on the back of the computer. (If you have upgraded your OS from when you purchased your iMac, example your iMac came with OS 10.3 installed, and you're now using OS 10.5, then use the OS 10.5 Retail Install disk that you had used to upgrade your OS instead of the original, came with the iMac disk.)
Continue holding the C key until you see the OS starting to load. DO NOT do an OS installation. At the top Menu bar, select Utilities or Utility, and pull down to Disk Utility. On the left side of the window that opens,select your normal OS drive. Click First Aid at the top middle of the window if it isn't already selected. Click Repair Disk from the lower right area of the window. When that is done, click Repair Permissions to the left of the Repair Disk button you clicked earlier.
When that is done, quit Disk Utility. From the top Menu bar (I think its under Utilities) select the Start Up Manager, and choose your normal boot volume as the startup disk. Restart the computer. If successful, and you've rebooted from your normal startup disk, eject the install DVD/CD, and you're good to go.
Good luck.

My computer is full and I need to save all my shows and movies on an external hard drive. I am on a mac book pro and I can't figure out how to drag the show in to the external hard drive

My computer is full and I need to remove movies and tv shows out of itunes and save them in an external hard drive. I cant figure out how to save them so I will be able to access them again. Or store them in the cloud

Do not store them in the Cloud. It isn't really storage. For iTunes purchases, for example, it is just re-downloading a purchase. If a label decides to no longer make the item available it will disap[pear from the cloud and that will be it for you.
You can't store items on an external drive simply by dragging them there. That's too complicated for iTunes and how it is set up to work. I know I post on this 10x a week and there's many other posts discussing this. I suggest you browse a bit first. Your options are basically to either put your whole library on the eternal drive (which is a nuisance if you don't want to drag it everywhere with you), or to copy individual items to the external drive, delete them from the internal drive, then re-add them as new items (re-adding to playlists, etc.).

How do I make an electronic drummer for the backing of a concert

I am going quietly crazy... being just an ordinary musician NOT a sound engineer! - ALL I WANT is a collection of drum tracks that I can start and stop and then go on to the next one - (I.e. an electronic drummer) for a 30 song gig. (My Live Drummer quit) NOW I have been through all sorts of tutorials for mainstage and it all seems to be ok but I CANNOT GET ANY KIND OF SETUP that does this simple task - I have a zillion drum loops and I know which ones I want to use - but.... there doesnt seem to be any simple way to set up 10 loops one after the other with a way of moving from the last one to thenext one - and have each one in the right tempo - I could do this in 1979 with a bloody drum machine so why cant I do it with a huge computer and a load of software?!!!
anybody out there with a simple 10 step recipe for this task will have the eternal gratitude of an old bluesman!!!!
VIV H
(too old to die young but no too old to play the blues)

I can hear you loud and clear Vivian.......and believe me I fully sympathise with the underlying thought of your criticism, but.......the point is this: why should we waste time moaning about trivial point of views, when we could use this time doing something more constructive? And I really mean this!
And during those early Apple days, a computer called Atari was the only usable machine for music production. That's, by the way, where Logic emerged from. Of course then it was called Notator and later it became Notator Logic. Apple computers, in those days where considered a joke when they showed up in a studio environment. Comparing all of that and more, with the present time, we must come to conclude that, from a technical/creative point of view, i'm sure you must agree, we're in paradise.
So what went wrong, why are so many musicians so frustrated and on the edge of a nervous brake down whenever they have to use computers. Well, one part of the answer lay's in that reality has not lived up to their expectations of what a computer can and can not do. Again, it seems like a waste of time, hours of work configuring and no results.......
Sometimes, while composing music, I will get stuck and there is nobody or nothing to blame. This happened too, before I started using computers helping me to do part of the job. And before that my pencil tip broke or I went out of ink and I had a broken string and no spare.
I don't mean to belittle you in any way and I'm sure you perfectly aware what to do, but I found out for myself, some time ago, that if I want change to happen and make things go my way, so to speak, I'll have to get organised, learn a few things. Now I bent and shape everything until it suits my needs perfectly. And yes, there are times, when playing music, I intentionally leave computers alone!
Cheers!

The Eternal Vacuum

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