Thermotec Power supply Recommended?

I have been advised by other members to change my 300 Q Tec power supply before the MoBo packs up. I have found a Thermotec 420W supply for $100 on the local market. (Stuff is expensive here). Has anyone ever heard of Thermotec and can anyone recomend them as being compatible with this P4 motherboard. Also with my setup I think 420W might still be low.
I would appreciate some advice please.
Regards Chris

Hi Chris,
How done a search........ no info on this brand, not even any selling on Ebay!!!!
Also had a look for component shops in Cyprus..........guess what???? All info about holidays etc......
You could try contacting a BRAND name PSU direct and explain.....that you not able to find a supplier in Cyprus, please could they advise on where to buy in Cyprus......... (Antec, Enermax or Hiper...... I have tested these are good quality and spex..... I don't advise, if I have not tried.)
Sorry I can not be of more help too you...
Del

Similar Messages

Power Supply recommendation?

I have noticed from reading some of these posts that 12 volt rail amperage is important to the stability of this board. Even though my system now seems to be stable (after cranking up mem voltage to 2.75), my rated 12 volt amperage is only 18 amps.
What PS do you recommend for my system? Thank you!

I sure wish I had a 520W OCZ Powerstream!
http://www.anandtech.com/memory/showdoc.aspx?i=2226&p=1
Quote
In the course of testing for this review, we also stumbled upon another mild surprise. We had been using a major brand 465 watt Power Supply in one of the A64 test beds with the FX53 and an nVidia 6800 Ultra video card. We were experiencing serious problems with video corruption and we were also seeing lower overclocks on memory in the 465 watt machine. We switched to the 520 watt OCZ PowerStream power supply in the problem test bed and found that video corruption disappeared and memory overclocks reached higher levels. Out of curiosity, we switched to the ATI 9800 PRO in the same test bed. We did not experience video corruption with the ATI and the 465W power supply, but memory overclocks were still lower with the 465 than what we could achieve with the PowerStream 520W.
Based on our experience, we would recommend a quality 500 watt+ power supply if you plan to seriously overclock memory on the Socket 939 platform. The difference in performance is substantial, with higher overclocks possible with the larger quality power supply. For that reason, we have updated the specifications of our A64 memory test bed to the 520W OCZ PowerStream.

Power Supply recommendations

I have a K7n420 board with amd 1700 xp cpu and need to know which power supply will do the trick. I was looking at the Antec true 430 - at $80 I'm not really looking for anything more expensive so keep the price in mind when letting me know what else I could go for. I did buy a 300watt no name brand but the top of the case was getting too warm for my liking....Thanks for any response.

I was running a 320 watt power supply, and it worked fine on my machine (no lock ups etc). YOu can see what I'm running in my signature. I only upgraded to a antec tru430 because I plan to add a DVD-RW pretty soon. If you buy an Antec Tru series and don't plan on having a lot of other stuff you will be fine.

MSI K9N2 Platinum Power Supply Recommendations

Hi, I am looking for a new power supply as my original burned out. Come to find out that since I upgraded my 2gb Corsair RAM to 4gb, it was not enough to supply power to it. *silly me*
My specs:
MSI K9N2 Platinum SLI
AMD64 X2 4000+ 2.81Ghz OC'D
320 GB Seagate SATA ( I plan to purchase and install a new hard drive soon. Probably a 1TB Western Digital drive so will be running 2 Hard drives)
4 GB Corsair DDR2 DHX (Orginally 2GB Corsair DDR2)
EVGA 8800 GT 512MB DDR3
DVD-R/W
My original power supply was a 450 Watts PSU. Now that its burned out, I will need a new one to replace it. I use my computer mainly for gaming, web browsing, etc.
I aim to look at the Corsair PSU brand because it is a very good PSU. Can anyone suggest the amount of watts that I will need?
Thanks in advance.

With the 8800GT, you should have a PSU that's capable of 26A, or 30A if you have many HDD and ODD and PCI cards. The Corsair VX450(33A) would work, but the VX550(41A) would be better(the TX 650 even better). If you're in the USA, NewEgg has the PC P&C after MIR, mail-in-rebates, competitively priced with the Corsairs.
Now, as long as the failed PSU didn't take out any components, the new PSU should serve you well.

Nexus 5548 - PFMA-2-PS_HIGH_VIN message on device with DC power supply

Hi,
we got following message on Cisco Nexus 5548 (NX-OS 6.0(2)N2(3)):
2014 Aug 25 06:41:11 MO-BPROD-AS-N5k-1 %PFMA-2-PS_HIGH_VIN: Input Voltage 1023
exceeded maximum threshold of 250V for Power supply 2.
2014 Oct 18 14:12:10 MO-BPROD-AS-N5k-1 %PFMA-2-PS_HIGH_VIN: Input Voltage 1023
exceeded maximum threshold of 250V for Power supply 1.
Strange thing is that power supplies at Nexus are DC (48 Volts), not an AC.
I serach at Cisco Error Message decoder and didn't find anything.
At Nexus 6000 (we have Nexus 5500) System Messages document I found this:
Error Message PFMA-2-PS_HIGH_VIN: Input Voltage [dec] exceeded maximum threshold of 250V for Power supply [dec].
Explanation Input Voltage has exceeded higher threshold of 250V for Power Supply
Recommended Action Please perform a showenvironmentpower'and'showplatforminternalinfo'tocollectmoreinformation.'
But, there is no any useful info from this commands (just first command works).

Hi,
1. The connection setup looks fine to me for a single ended measurement - you may want to connect to 68 and 32 for differential measurements.
3. The example should be ready to take measurements
4. The Data Acquisition card forces the input range to a valid value - 8V is not a valid range and it will be coerced to 10V - this is expected.
5. I am not sure why its not letting you cahnge the channel but a good way to test you hardware is by opening up a test panel in Measurement and Automation Explorer - can you try that and let me know?
Hope this helps!
Abhinav T.
Applications Engineering
National Instruments India
LabVIEW Introduction Course - Six Hours
Getting Started with NI-DAQmx
Measurement Fundamentals

Looking for a new quiet power supply, what do you recommend?

the current power supply rip was an antec 480 truepower. It was ok but I'm looking for an ultra quiet supply, hope to here your recommendations. TIA.

Jason, I think he would have some trouble getting them shipped to Australia from one of those stores. Beside that it would be less from newegg, look at the additional 20% off promo and free shipping. For me it's 3 days from order to delivery from ZZf and newegg.
Yes, one of the Corsairs but not HX but as mentioned TX or VX, also PC P&C 610. Ignore watts, go by +12V amps and as FP mentioned consider future need for more power when choosing. Nowdays the VX450W (+12V~33A) would be considered minimum to get and also would be considered weak for many current systems.

MSI KT6 Delta MOBO - recommended power supply

My power supply exploded , I think, and I cannot power up the system. Hopefully this has not affected the rest of the system: chip, graphcard etc.
What voltage power supply should I have for this particular motherboard?
cheers

I'm sorry some of you are having problems with cheap power supplies. That is beside the point, however. I can only state what I know from experience, as I have never taken any classes in switching supply design. I have absolutely zero (0) problems with cheap supplies. And any motherboard that is so power hungry that it can itself overdraw a power supply is very poor design. As I said, I ran my HP Pavilion xt983 with a 200-watt cheap-o PSU with all that stuff in my previous post for over 4 years with no problems (and the PSU still works even after the mobo died from bad capacitors). I am using it to rebuild the exact same (minus HP mobo) system when the replacement mobo (crappy Chaintech) comes back this week from being repaired under warranty.
I never said wattage was the only metric - it's just a guide, as no manufacturer I know of specifies exactly how much and what type of current anything they build uses in the computer world (nor would I trust the spec if they did) - it changes under load. Most people use max figures to decide how much current they need. I just don't want people thinking they need an expensive PSU to run their good to mediocre PC. I don't use junk and my PCs last for years on end (actually never had one I built die for any reason, knock on wood). You do not need a high-wattage or even big namebrand PSU at all, unless you are building a very high-end PC (with light cathodes, water cooling, light kits, multiple every kind of drives, etc. - meaning you plan to abuse the system). The run-of-the-mill PC needs no more than a cheap (non-junky) PSU that can provide at least 17 amps on the 12V rail. That's what I use and that's what I recommend. Wattage should be at 300+ watts to "allow for expansion". Use the calculator. See what all you have to add to get up anywhere near 430 Watts. It can be done, but I would never tax a system that way. The bottom line is watts are only a limiting factor, not a design factor. If you add up all the rails on a typical 430-Watt PSU, it is way over 430 watts. However, if you use all the 12V amps it can turn out and still stay near 12 volts, most of the 5V amps, and most of the 3.3V amps by overloading the system with doodads and whatnots, the 430W limit will matter. As long as you build what I consider a normal system, you'll never use 430 Watts. All decent PSUs can supply enough 3.3V and 5V current (should be around 30-40+ amps each), but many of them are deficient on the 12V rail. Looking for a PSU that can churn out 17+ amps on the 12V rail usually means it can handle about any normal load (meaning single processor, mobo, a HDD or two, a FDD, a few sticks of RAM, and DR/DVD burner or two, and a few expansion cards with no strange mods like lights and 100 fans, water cooling, etc.) on all rails.
So, to recap: For everyday computing, watts are only a limiting factor, so don't get less than 300 in case you really want that power hungry device of the future or want to build a top-end system now. Current is critical, so don't get anything that's puny on any rail (3.3+5V = ~30-40+ amps each and 12V = 17+ amps). Ignore all the "this power supply rocks" junk you'll see in bulletin boards and on Newegg (and other retailers) and look at the specs yourself. Namebrand means as much as you think it does - some have a good rep, some have a bad rep, some have no rep.

Recommended Power supply?

Can someone tell me if the power supply I have is sufficient for my system? I continue to Machine-check-exception Errors while trying to load or install applications or gaming.
I tried reducing RAM speed but no joy
Thanks

Theres a quote that SuperShanks usually shells out (where is SuperShanks?) about A64's and power supplies. AMD themselves say that you need atleast 24a on the +12v rail. Therefore, you should get a new PSU.
I would recommend PC POWER AND COOLING or ENERMAX. The enermax listed in my signature is great. A cheaper but comparable PSU is the enermax 460/465w whisper II.
Anyway, this does not mean your PSU is the cause of your problems, as you could get by with your current PSU. This does not mean you shouldn't replace it, as expandibility and other things come to mind when considering future problems.
I'm not sure what exactly you were asking other than if you want to know whether or not your PSU can hack it, it's unlikely.
As far as the guy with the ROSEWILL is concerned, the PSU looks good as far as wattage and amperage are concerned but ROSEWILL is not a company I'm familiar with. Usually you buy good PSU's because you can trust the capacitor inside of it not to kill your whole entire computer when it fails. So if you're at all worried about your components if you were to have a PSU failure, you may want to consider the PSU i have in my signature.
Just my two cents, guys. I'm only trying to help.

Recommend Power Supply

I'm still collecting parts for my new MSI 865G Neo2-PLS with a P4 2.8C 800MHz.
I've obtained a new case and am considering the Power Supply for the system.
Would the Thermaltake 420W (W0009R) be a good choice?
Or would the Antec SL-400 be a better choice?
I'm seriously considering the Thermaltake... but it's not on Intel's List of Tested Power Supplies for the New Pentium 4 HTs.
I will soon put together a complete list of my system when I have it together with one-beep!
Thanks is advamce.
//PantherFan

Try this link to calc your needs:
http://www.adecy.com/psu/
I have the SL400. No complaints, but I haven't worked it hard. Yet.
With the fans in case, and the other components in my signature, the calculator indicates I am marginal powerwise.
I also have an SL400 I will put in my wife's AMD1800+ XP machine, MSI K7N2 DELTA-ILSR, MSI Ti4200vtd8x.
I expect it to be marginal there also. But it now has a 350W "PowerUp" PSU, Motto, "We might be cheap, but we smell HOT...."
It is common routine to see people posting problems dissing the 865, & other boards, when they are really just underpowered. Underpowered systems will give you some really wierd symptoms.
Go bigger, if you can. Enermax 465, or some of the 550W units others have recommended. Good for the long haul and upgrades to other hardware. Or if you want to overclock.
Whatever you do, HAVE FUN WITH IT!

Suspect dead power supply -- next steps, recommendations?

Hi all!
Our 17" iMac won't power on and I suspect it's the power supply (I tried different outlets and power cords). What should my next steps be? For example, while browsing I saw mention of LED indicators inside the unit. Is that the next logical step?
I don't necessarily want to continue using the iMac since I have a much newer MacBook Pro that I can use instead. However, I would like to get all my iTunes files off the iMac (I have a backup that's two months old, but I've purchased a lot of music/apps/videos since then). So if it's easier/cheaper, I'd be open to suggestions other than fixing the iMac. For example, can I pull the hard drive from the iMac and get some sort of external enclosure so that I can plug it into my MacBook Pro to copy the files off? If so, what sort of enclosure would I need for the iMac's hard drive (links?)
Thanks so much in advance!

Good old Apple forums. My iMac wouldn't start up and the first post on the list this past Thursday was this thread!
The machine had powered itself down twice and the last time I couldn't start it up. I did do a backup the night before.
I did the LED test all the way thru. Nice to learn that one. After #12 indicated my logic board needed to be replaced, I made a Genius appointment for two days later. There, Andrew at the Walnut Creek, CA store opened up the machine, saw that the condensers were fine and sent the machine upstairs for a new power supply. He said that sometimes the LED test will indicate the logic board, but most of the time it's the power supply. $85 each for the part and labor = $170. Much cheaper than the alternative.
Now that was one of my better Apple Store experiences.

Please recommend power supply

Just purchased an MS-9130, to run a single Athlon 64 FX53, along with an AGP card, and the usual assortment of peripherals. Machine is used as a student desktop, for coding, some medium heavy graphics work, etc. Can you suggest a solid and reliable power supply to use with this board? Thanks!

Is this one OK too? Hope so, because it's the one I ordered...sorry couldn't wait! Thanks.
ENERMAX EG465P-VE 24P ATX 460W Power Supply 90V~135V AC or 180V~265V AC UL cUL TUV DEMKO NEMKO SEMKO FIMKO - Retail
* Model #: EG465P-VE 24P
* Item #: N82E16817103488

What power supply do you recommend?

Well i've been having quite a few problems with my upgrade of late and I suspect that it maybe due to my "oldish" power supply. I have an Enermax 350W power supply.
What do you guys/gals advise that I get?

OMG, I think I just had my first low_12V_amp_PSU_symptom!
http://techrepublic.com.com/5100-6255_11-1041735.html Told me something about bad (or too low powered PSU's):
The symptoms
Just about any intermittent problem can be caused by a faulty power supply. I normally look there first when the symptoms are a little weird. Common power-related symptoms include:
* Any power-on or system startup failures or lockups
* Spontaneous rebooting or intermittent lockups during normal operation
* Intermittent parity check or other memory-type errors
* HDD and fan simultaneously failing to spin (no +12V)
* Overheating due to fan failure (!)
* Small brownouts that cause the system to restart
* Electric shocks that are felt when the case is touched
There are also some obvious clues that should lead you to suspect a faulty power supply. These include:
* A system that is completely dead (nothing happens when the system is turned on)
* Smoke
* Circuit breakers popping when the PC is turned on
My problem was: CPU.temp @ 81 oC in CoreCenter that sounded the alarm and eventually shut down the pc. (First I didn't notice the alarm, I was checking out SimCity4 and thought it was part of the game )
Since the +12V rail handles the power of HD-motors and fans (http://www.cooltechzone.com/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=444&Itemid=0&limit=1&limitstart=1), I'm now afraid the CPU-fan didn't catchup when I increased the CPU load because it did not have the +12V power to do so!? Is this possible at all?
Maybe I'll follow SAB's advice and go through the hassle of changing my Zalman PSU for a Tagan TG480-U01 480 watt at my webshop....

K8N Neo4 Platinum recommended power supply?

What is the minimum power supply I can use on this board? The reason I ask is my PS just went out and I have a 300W laying around, I tried to use the 300W just to test to make sure it was the power supply, and the computer turns on with the 300W but the monitor doesn't come on like it's booting up. Should the monitor come on when it is booting up with the 300W power supply or is it just not getting enough juice? Keep in mind with the 300W I disconnected all non-essentials

300W is way too low for any modern system.
We can't say if a system will start with such a PSU or not.
Too many factors involved.
I have a system here 3800X2 with a 300W PSU, it boots, but as soon as I put some stress on it, the PSU shuts down.
Pure luck it boots at all.
Going to put a 500W PSU in it of a decend brand to stop this shutting down.

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p

Hello!
I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required).
Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.
Thanks!
Nathan

Quote
Originally posted by thegrommit
That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct? It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
[edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset. Are you sure that's the correct number?
No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp.

Thermotec Power supply Recommended?

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