Two things which should revert to "normal"

Here's some reiteration of my post under "Photoshop Mac."
I have various workstations running Mac OS 10.5.8 three run PS CS3, and one runs CS4.
In CS4 files always open on the monitor I have allocated for my palattes. Before CS4, Photoshop would open files on the monitor that my last filed was opened on. This is highly annoying!!! Please bring this back in CS5!
(Note: My menu bar is on the monitor I've designated for my palettes menu and not the monitor I do all my color work on.)
Also, any hopes that we will be able to have a preview button for adjustment layers again? If I'm able to do so when adjusting directly onto a layer, why don't I at least have the option to have a preview button when having an adjustment layer???? And sure, I understand I can go back in my history, but it seems unnecessary to create a whole new history state for each little adjustment you make.. then need to look at your history palette and make sure you're selecting the correct state.

https://www.adobe.com/cfusion/mmform/index.cfm?name=wishform to file a feature request... insert a reference to this message link

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5 things which should be improved in the Warp Stabilizer

1. Performance.
When stabilizing any footage I always ask myself: "What the heck is he doing there?!" not even a single core is really working hard. It looks like an idle background process The GPU is idle as well, as the analysis pass is only run on the CPU.
This maybe okay if you still need much work to do in Premiere. But often, the next steps DEPEND on the stabilization and you have to WAIT and WAIT and WAIT...
It's just painful to imagine that, running a machine with 8 cores, more than 8 times the amount of video material COULD be analyzed.
The free Deshaker for Virtualdub actually uses more cores (even though not at 100%) but analyzes at about 20-21fps compared to the Warp Stabilizer at about 4-8fps.
Admitted, the Deshakers results aren't nearly as good (especially with rolling shutter, which can be configured though, but you don't always know the right percentage for the cam you're using).
This also applies to opening projects with much stabilization data. It opens... and opens... rarely any disk activity and rarely any CPU or GPU activity. Again: WHAT IS HE DOING THERE? Just waiting for the clock itself?! Or is he sending it all to the NSA? That at least would explain the unneccesary delay:P (just kidding!)
2. Stabilization data.
For me, I wouldn't have any problem with storing it just inside a project folder or a separate file. Just add a checkbox into the plugin settings:
[x] Store stabilisation data in separate file/folder.
This may be then called [projectName].stabilization
Inside that folder, there will be maybe one file for every effect used in the project.
...or you can use the old way, if you don't have so much stabilization work to do.
3. Small bugs.
When using "stabilize only", the resulting frame, at least in Premiere Pro, has a HUGE "DC offset" sometimes. This is a term from music producing, but exactly fits in here. You can clearly see it when there are still images that shouldn't receive much of stabilization. They're somtimes shifted far out of the viewing frame, leaving big black borders, so you have to manually adjust the frame position to fit back into a "neutral" position. This could be resolved to let the whole correcting curve undergo something like a "low pass filter" which will try to keep the resulting frame SOMEHOW centered.
In this image above, from a longer clip, there isn't much motion at all. But you can see how far the offset from the actual video frame is. I have to do this for almost every video, also after I change the "smoothness" setting.
4. More control
I would LOVE to be able to disable "zoom detection", because it gives me lots of "Vertigo Effects" in many cases.
I heard this has been alredy addressed for CC.
5. Improvements / new features
One thing I always do with every stabilized video:
Instead of synthesize edges, which takes AGES to render, I just do the following:
I place the same clip, unstabilized, behind the stabilized clip (stabilized, borders only) and give the stabilized clip softened borders with "rough edges". This even still renders fine on the GPU.
This would make a great option for the stabilizer. Just call it "overlay over original with blurred edges" or something like that.
This has worked extremely well for any stabilized footage so far and isn't nearly as disturbing as the synthesized edges.
I'm considering to join the Creative Cloud, because unless I do this I don't expect to see any improvements in my old and out-dated Premiere PRO CS6...

https://www.adobe.com/cfusion/mmform/index.cfm?name=wishform to file a feature request... insert a reference to this message link

How can i/adobe tell which licence (student or normal) things are created in?

How can i/adobe tell which licence (student or normal) things are created in?
Basically i want to know how i can find out, (in an exported jpg for instance) where it would say it was created in the student edition or in the normal edition. I dont want to put files that would be going against the student licence (which for those of you who dont know you cant create items to sell in a student edition) on the internet to make money.
I have put i/adobe because if no one can tell what files are created in, and i have the licence for the normal one then it should be okay.
Hope some of you can help,
James

no one know still?

Have family plan with 250 data which I almost use each month. Going on vacation and will be on the road for two weeks. Should I up my data for a month then change back. Is it worth it or should I just run over and pay the extra 15 per gig?

have family plan with 250 data which I almost use each month. Going on vacation and will be on the road for two weeks. Should I up my data for a month then change back. Is it worth it or should I just run over and pay the extra 15 per gig?

Hello mlazaretti. Vacation time is awesome. (Especially a road trip!) Since you will be going out for two weeks, you never know if having extra data may come in handy. I highly recommend switching to the next tier up so this way you have more data. This way it is only $10.00 more versus $15.00, and you dont have to worry about overages. Then change back at the start of the next billing cycle.
If you need help making this change let us know! Have a safe trip!
NicandroN_VZW
Follow us on twitter @VZWSupport

My auto install for Premiere Elements failed and told me i needed to do a restart and try installing again. Having restarted my laptop, how do I install the software? There are two .exe files in the folder - oem and start-up. Which should i run?

My auto install for Premiere Elements failed and told me i needed to do a restart and try installing again. Having restarted my laptop, how do I install the software? There are two .exe files in the folder - oem and start-up. Which should i run?
thanks

for windows you should have an exe and a 7z file. put both in the same directory and double click the exe.
Downloadable installation files available:
Suites and Programs: CC 2014 | CC | CS6 | CS5.5 | CS5 | CS4, CS4 Web Standard | CS3
Acrobat: XI, X | 9,8 | 9 standard
Premiere Elements: 13 | 12 | 11, 10 | 9, 8, 7 win | 8 mac | 7 mac
Photoshop Elements: 13 |12 | 11, 10 | 9,8,7 win | 8 mac | 7 mac
Lightroom: 5.7.1| 5 | 4 | 3
Captivate: 8 | 7 | 6 | 5.5, 5
Contribute: CS5 | CS4, CS3
Download and installation help for Adobe links
Download and installation help for Prodesigntools links are listed on most linked pages. They are critical; especially steps 1, 2 and 3. If you click a link that does not have those steps listed, open a second window using the Lightroom 3 link to see those 'Important Instructions'.

When I share a link (URL) only Apple computers receive the link. Others such as PCs and Blackberries get the message, but the field which should have the link is blank. Is this normal? Why can I only send to Apple machines?

when I "share a link" (URL) using the pulldown menu in Safari, the email goes to all addresses I indicate, but only Apple computers receive the link. Others such as PCs and Blackberries get the message, but the field which should have the link is blank. Is this normal? Why can I only send to Apple machines?

I have had a similar problem with my system. I just recently (within a week of this post) built a brand new desktop. I installed Windows 7 64-bit Home and had a clean install, no problems. Using IE downloaded an anti-virus program, and then, because it was the latest version, downloaded and installed Firefox 4.0. As I began to search the internet for other programs to install after about maybe 10-15 minutes my computer crashes. Blank screen (yet monitor was still receiving a signal from computer) and completely frozen (couldn't even change the caps and num lock on keyboard). I thought I perhaps forgot to reboot after an update so I did a manual reboot and it started up fine.
When ever I got on the internet (still using firefox) it would crash after anywhere between 5-15 minutes. Since I've had good experience with FF in the past I thought it must be either the drivers or a hardware problem. So in-between crashes I updated all the drivers. Still had the same problem. Took the computer to a friend who knows more about computers than I do, made sure all the drivers were updated, same problem. We thought that it might be a hardware problem (bad video card, chipset, overheating issues, etc.), but after my friend played around with my computer for a day he found that when he didn't start FF at all it worked fine, even after watching a movie, or going through a playlist on Youtube.
At the time of this posting I'm going to try to uninstall FF 4.0 and download and install FF 3.6.16 which is currently on my laptop and works like a dream. Hopefully that will do the trick, because I love using FF and would hate to have to switch to another browser. Hopefully Mozilla will work out the kinks with FF 4 so I can continue to use it.
I apologize for the lengthy post. Any feedback would be appreciated, but is not necessary. I will try and post back after I try FF 3.16.6.

When e-mail is sent from ipad, return address show up to recipient w/ the word "hi" in front of it making hi & address all one word. E-mail bounces back to them when they try to send something to me. I have two e-mails, one w/ local ph co, which should

I have two e-mail addresses, one w/ my local ph com, which should be my primary one & one w/ yahoo. When I send e-mail via ipad, the word hi apears before my e-address, making the word hi and my address one word. When recipient tries to e-mail me back, mail bonces back to them. Help, Please!

I have two e-mail addresses, one w/ my local ph com, which should be my primary one & one w/ yahoo. When I send e-mail via ipad, the word hi apears before my e-address, making the word hi and my address one word. When recipient tries to e-mail me back, mail bonces back to them. Help, Please!

I have two airports, one quite old and one brand new. Which should be connected to the modem in an extended network?

I just got a new airport express to extend my wireless network. It's 802.11(n). I have an older airport-- I don't know what iteration of the 802.11 standard.
If I connect them with Ethernet, which should be connected to the modem? Does that answer change if I have to connect the two airports wirelessly?

Unless I use the WAN port on the new APE, right?
Correct. But, if you do this, the question about which device connects where is then already answered....since the "new" AirPort Express must connect to your modem. So, your best wireless performance will occur in the area near the modem. Hopefully, that is where you need the best performance.
Side note-- the tech specs linked below for the 1st gen, draft-n APE say that it, too, is dual band, although it doesn't actually seem to be.)
It's confusing since a device can be dual band, but not simultaneous dual band.
1st Gen AirPort Express (AX) is dual band because it can provide a 2.4 GHz or 5 GHz network. But, it cannot provide both at the same time. It is one or the other.
The 2nd Gen AirPort Express is simultaneous dual band because it provides both a 2.4 GHz and 5 Ghz signal at the same time.
1) Cable Modem ---> Switch ---> Two APE (all ethernet)
2) Cable Modem ---> 2nd Gen APE ---> 1st Gen APE (all ethernet)
3) Cable Modem ---> one APE ~~~> other APE (wireless between APE)
1) Will not work if you have a simple cable modem....one Ethernet port only.
If your cable "modem" is a modem/router with multiple Ethernet ports, then you could connect both AirPort Express devices back to the modem/router....and you would not need a switch at all unless you need more Ethernet ports for other devices.
2) would be correct if you have a simple cable modem
3) If you want to make use of the simultaneous dual band capability of the Express, then that device must be connected directly to the modem. The 1st Gen Express will "extend" one band only.....probably the 2.4 GHz band, since it is stronger.
If you use the 1st Gen Express connected to the modem, the "new" Express will not extend two bands. It will only extend the band that it "sees" from the 1st Gen Express, so you lose the simultaneous dual band capability of the "new" Express in this type of setup.
If you "extend"using wireless only, there is typically a bandwidth loss of about 50%, so it is always a compromise in this type of setup.

Two installers downloaded with Shockwave: 1) Installer_full, 2) Uninstaller. Nothing describes differences. Which should I use?

Two installers downloaded with Shockwave: 1) Installer_full, 2) Uninstaller. Nothing describes differences. Which should I use?

Aren't the names quite clear:
Uninstaller is, well, the uninstaller
Installer_full is the installer
depending of what you want to do, use one or the other.

HT201272 I had to reinstall windows 7 on my computer and never backed up iTunes on a external drive. Two things, first, I have all my music on my iPod (which a lot of it was on cd's that I no longer own),if I back up my iPod to iTunes will I lose all that

I have all my music on my iPod ( which includes music from all my cd's that I bought from retail stores and I no longer have), if I back it up to ITunes will I lose it even though it is in iCloud ?
Also, I can not find any of my audio books that I bought and downloaded thru iTunes, why?

For music purchased from iTunes you might be able to re-download it via the Purchased link under Quicklinks on the right-hand side of the iTunes store home page on your computer's iTunes.
For music copied from CDs, and for purchases if you can't redownload them, then there are some programs listed half-way down this page which should be able to copy them back from your iPod : https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3991
There is also this page for syncing to a new computer (which, in effect, you will be) : https://discussions.apple.com/docs/DOC-3141
Where are you looking for the audiobooks ? They are currently a one-time only download from the store, so they won't appear in the Purchased tab for redownloading. If you don't have them on a backup nor on your iPod (if they are on your iPod then File > Devices > Transfer Purchases should copy them back to your computer's iTunes), then if they are still in the store then you can try contacting iTunes Support and see if they will grant you a redownload : http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/contact/ - click on Contact iTunes Store Support on the right-hand side of the page, then Purchases, Billing & Redemption

I've just downloaded Aperture 3 and two things happened

I've just downloaded Aperture 3 and two things happened 1.I imported only one album of 300 + images and duplicate images came over which I subsequently sent to trash. 2. All images, except for one, have disappeared from the album. Can anyone explain why this has happened and what can I do. Thanks. Patricia

Thanks Terence,
Yes, I guess I had inadvertently added something to the search box. When I clicked in it, all the images were there. So thanks for that.
If the duplicates that came in from iphoto during the import are iphoto previews, was I wrong to consign them to the trash? So far, I haven't emptied the trash. I would very much appreciate it if you would advice me further on this issue. I would also like to now import another album from iphoto, but I will wait until I hear from you in case there is something I should do in the process to avoid duplicates being imported at the same time, assuming that they shouldn't be.
Regards
Patricia

DOC should be a normal Word document and we should be able to define the header style

Hi Team,
We are facing a issue with the pre assigned headers assigned by Adobe acrobat Pro Xl.
Our actual requirement is as follows:
1. As we convert a PDF to DOC there shouldn't be any pre assigned headers (header levels defined).
2. DOC should be a normal Word document and we should be able to define the header style.
We have tried working out on the same but nothing is going our way.
We tried couple of step which are as follows:
1. Deleting pre assigned TAG's.
2. Clearing headers with the help of Touch Up Reading Order Tool (TURO).
Request you to kindly revert on the same.

1. As we convert a PDF to DOC there shouldn't be any pre assigned headers (header levels defined).
You cannot control how Acrobat creates the word file.
2. DOC should be a normal Word document and we should be able to define the header style.
The word file is a normal Word document file. You may wish it was designed for it to be easiest to edit. Acrobat is making a Word file to most reliably resemble the original pdf file. I have no trouble creating any header style I want. The text in the header frequently consists of text boxes. Acrobat does this to insure accurate representation of the pdf file.

Neo2, ram "thingie" broken, should I be worried?

Well, I dont know know the word for those things that keep the ram in place, the two white "thingies" which you have to press/push to put the ramblock in place. One of them broke in my neo2 while I was taking one of the blocks out. There is still one left on the right side, I tried with the only one left and it looks like the block isnt going anywhere .. has this happened to anyone? I am a bit worried that my ram all of a sudden pop out in the middle of it all. It seems pretty much like its in place and not moving, but I am not at all confortable about it.

Yeah - think the thingiesa may be called retaining clips!
Anyway, not on my neo, but on my old ASUS board I have done this also - although in my case it was on an unused slot that was just too close to my AGP and I was pressing that HARD like you have to and the heatsink I had put onto the AGP card fouled on the white clip and snapped it off.
IMHO this should ONLY matter if you were shipping the PC, and you could still handle it easily enough by removing the RAM stick to ship.... Alternatively I betcha you could easily rig up another way to ensure it is held in place - thinking of adhesive pads or somesuch - anyway, I should not feel bad or worry....

How to make this two things at the same time ?

Hello
When my mouse is on a area, I need :
- to show a object (a rectangle inserted with the toolbar)
- to show a caption
I think it's not possible to do this two things at the same time when I use the rollover functions (Rollover caption or Rollover Image).
I would like to use a button, but the button works only if I click it, and not when I just pass my mouse on it.
Someone have an Idea?
I can't use Javascript.
Thanks

Rick is correct. You can use the Rollover Slidelet's rollover area to trigger an Advanced Action. You'll need to create this Advanced Action with two clauses. One to SHOW the caption, and the other to SHOW the rectangle.
Your alternative to the rollover slidelet is to use an Event Handler widget attached to the object that the mouse should roll over.
The Event Handler will detect when the mouse is over the object and trigger its own Success criteria. You can then use the widget's ON Success event to trigger the Advanced Action as mentioned above.
More information about using the Event Handler here: http://www.infosemantics.com.au/adobe-captivate-widgets/download-free-trial-widgets
An example of using it to do two different things on the same object can be found at this web page: http://www.infosemantics.com.au/adobe-captivate-advanced-elearning-tutorials/beat-adobe-ca ptivate-interactive-catch22
Trial versions of the widget can be downloaded from here: http://www.infosemantics.com.au/adobe-captivate-widgets/download-free-trial-widgets

I want to transfer an audiobook and a movie from my MacBook Pro to my iPhone 4S, and can't figure out how. I went to "Help" and it said after connecting the two devices I should "Click Apps," but I can't find anything labeled "Apps" to click. Help?!!

I want to transfer an audiobook and a movie from my MacBook Pro to my iPhone 4S, and can't figure out how. I went to "Help" and it said after connecting the two devices I should "Click Apps," but I can't find anything labeled "Apps" to click. Help?!!

If you have iTunes 11 on your Mac then you can enable the left-hand sidebar via option-command-S, that might make it easier to navigate.
Connect the phone to your Mac and select it on that left-hand sidebar, and on the right-hand side of the screen there should be a series of tabs which you can use to select what to sync to the phone. If it's an audiobook then it should appear on the Books tab for selecting/syncing, and films will be on the Movies tab. When you've got the audiobook on your phone you should get an Audiobooks option in the Music app (you might need to tap the '...' tab at the bottom of the Music app to see it).

Two things which should revert to "normal"

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