Ultra 5 nvram replacement

Hi,
I've got a sun ultra 5 with a nvram depleted battery , device part no M48T59T-PC1D - i have sourced a relacement at RS which is a MT48T59Y-70MH1 - is this s a compatible replacement as the last few digits are different ?

yes that should work on an ultra 5 i think the last few numbers are the host ID which will change with the new nvram but can be reprogrammed by you through the os i think if needed.

Similar Messages

KT4 Ultra MB: Replacing the AGP 8X North Bridge Fan

Opened a friend's PC this afternoon to add an ethernet card and 1Gb memory and unsurprisingly found it was dust-bound. Whilst attemtping to clean the north bridge fan (45mm AGP 8X) I noticed it wasn't turning very freely - in fact it wouldn't turn at all when I powered it back up. Trouble is I haven't a clue how to remove it to replace it! This tiny fan appears to have two diagonally opposed spring-loaded pins, the other diagonal having two miniscule screws which just keep turning, but not releasing anything.
I realise this is a very old board, but can anyone suggest how to remove this fan? Just a thought; I imagine this fan has not been working properly (at all?) for sometime - so is a replacement vital?
Thanks for reading this.

You know when you have a toothache but you get to the dentist there's no sign of pain - well this chipset fan has started to work again!
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Msi fx 5700 ultra 5900xt compatibility

Hi
I recently bought a MSI fx5700 ultra to replace my ge force 4200 ti, However when I installed it is was a no go ran for about 10 seconds then the power switched of and the would not re start. returned it to the shop who confirmed it was a dud then because no replacements are available loaned me a 5700 standard till they could get a new 5700 ultra. ( the 5700 ran fine in my machine) A few weeks went by then the shop contacted me informing me that could not get a 5700 ultra but would I be happy with a MSI 5900 xt which was satisfactory to me. I installed the MSI 5900xt the machine started and windows xp loaded and detected the new hardware and all seamed fine until I went into a 3D game then strange things started to appear on the screen. I re started the computer but even at the POST screen the screen was full of small vertical lines all over the screen and I could not get xp to load. Back to the shop who again loaned me the 5700 standard which again worked fine. and they confirmed the 5900xt was a faulty card.
My system is:
P4 2.53 gig 533 front system bus
ASUS p4pe motherboard AGP 4 only 1.5 volt
1 gig ram
Sound blaster live
a good quality power supply (thermo ??? 480 watt)
2x120 gig hard drives
cd writer.
My question are
1/ As I understand it both cards are backward compatible with agp 4 / 1.5 volt. is this true or an I damaging the cards by installing them into my asus p4pe motherboard?
2/ Is it common to fine a faulty batch of cards? I have been building my own computers for about 6 years with no hardware problems until the 5700 ultra drama.
3/ Can any one suggest any thing else I may be doing wrong?
PS all my system is standard eg not over clocked etc.
Thanks in advance for any help anyone may be able to give
Bob

Thanks for the reply
the power supply is a Thermal Take silent pure power
Specifications:
Designed for AMD K7 and Intel ATX +12V 1.1 and ATX 2.03 version (Fully Support Pentium 4)
Serial ATA (Advanced Technology Attachment)
Active PFC (Power Factor Correction)
Peak Output: 550W
Two adjustable manual fan speed controls for use in the front and rear side of the case. (From 1300 RPM at 25°C~ 4800 RPM at 90°C).
Temperature Automatic Fan Speed Control
Noise: 17 dBA at 1300 RPM, 45 dB at 4800 RPM
Dual fans power supply
Xaser badge on side panel w/ black / silver color printing
Specifications:
Type: ATX
Maximum Power: 480W
PFC: Active
Power Good Signal: 100-500ms
Hold-up Time: >16ms at Full Load
Efficiency: >65%
Over Voltage Protection: +5V trip pointOverload Protection: Not specified
Input Voltage: 100 - 240 Vrms
Input Frequency Range: 47-63 Hz
Input Current: 8A
Output: +3.3V@30A;+5V@40A;[email protected];+12V@18A;[email protected];+5VSB@2A
MTBF: Not specified
Approvals: Not specified

Please add USB-C to 3TB My Passport Ultra

Just noticed there's finally a 3TB My Passport Ultra portable drive available (after more than 3 years with 2TB at the top of the capacity range; I realise there was a fake 4TB model consisting of 2 glued together 2TB drives for some time - but not surprisingly that did not fly). However I'm quite surprised that this brand new 3TB drive does not have USB-C (in addition to USB 3.0, ideally). Copying larger amounts of data using USB 3.0 is very time consuming. Whilst many laptops and other devices don't have USB-C as yet, very soon this will be the case with all new kit. So having USB-C on the drive would mean it is future-proof. Since it took 3 years for the 3TB model to become available (the 2TB came out in the first half of 2012), it is likely that this 3TB model will be the top of the range of the next 3 years I assume (WD does not seem to be in a hurry to increase portable drive capacities). So if I buy these drives now, they will have to last the distance. Without USB-C therefore, it does not make sense to buy the 3TB My Passport Ultra (unless you guys promise a 4TB My Passport Ultra within a year or so, but I guess you won't). I have 12x 2TB My Passport Ultras to replace, and probably some more capacity to add soon too. It's just too much of an investment to do that if they come with legacy USB only: I'm not going to replace the drives again just to add USB-C (I might replace them if I can also add capacity at the same time; but not just for the USB port). Other people working in media will be in the same situation.

Thank you for your response, No, I haven't tried writing zeros before/after running the tests, WD Customer service rep didn't suggest anything like this. How to write zeros before/after running the tests. Thanks

Early 2008 iMac (8,1) randomly goes into sleep mode

Hey,
My early 2008 iMac (8,1) on 10.8.2 goes into sleep mode by itself. I've played around in Energy Saver, tried resetting SMC, NVRAM, replaced HDD, reformatted HDD, installed smcFanControl, reinstalled Snow Leopard, Lion, Mountain Lion. None of that worked. Took it to the Genius bar, performed some diagnostics tests and they said everything worked properly. Does anybody have the same problem? I can still use the computer for general computer use (light web surfing and e-mailing), but it seems to go into sleep mode when I have a lot of applications open and especially when watching videos. I've tried researching this problem, but I've haven't found a definitive answer. Right now, the Genius that I've been talking to thinks it may be the RAM. I'm waiting on new shipments of test RAM to arrive at the Apple Store for him to properly diagnose.
Thanks,
Jason
iMac (8,1)
2.8 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
2x2 GB 800 MHz DDR2 SDRAM
ATI Radeon HD 2600 Pro 256 MB
1TB 7200 RPM SATA ST1000DM003-1CH162
If you want to read the whole time line, I've included it here. I apologize for it being so long.
At first I was running Lion (10.7.5) and the computer would enter sleep mode whenever I was doing anything with video. For example, watching YouTube videos and chatting on FaceTime. And funny enough, I distinctly remember watching a bunch of movies with VLC and the computer did not go to sleep (Although, this is not true anymore). I could wake the computer up and use it, however within a few minutes the computer would re-enter sleep mode. The computer seemed fine and I could access all of my files. Tried resetting SMC and it did not resolve the issue.
I made a Genius appointment to see if they were familiar with the issue. The iMac passed the in-store diagnostics test; it said all the components were functioning properly. He told me to bring it home to do a fresh re-install of my OS and then run my computer to see if the problem persisted. I took it home and reformatted my HDD with a 35-pass erase, re-installed Snow Leopard (10.6.8) and declined to transfer any backups from Time Machine. I was using a fresh system and sure enough, the problem persited. Tried doing the same thing again but with Lion (10.7.5) and still no luck. So I made another appointment and it passed the in-store diagnostics test again. I let them keep the computer for a 24-hour diagnostics test. They told me they would diagnose my computer with the OS on my HDD as well as a copy of OS that the Apple store deemed 'good' on an external HDD. The Genius called me and told me that my HDD failed their 24-hour diagnostics test and recommended I replace it. I initially had a 750 GB HDD, and the Apple Store could only offer me a 500 GB HDD ($200). I opted to take my computer to Carbon Computing, an authorized dealer in Toronto, to have a 1 TB Seagate HDD ($170) installed with no OS on it. I brought it home, performed another 35-pass erase and installed Snow Leopard. Problem still persisted. Repeated with Lion, still unsuccessful. Looking back, I was so excited that I just had to replace the HDD to fix the problem, I forgot to ask the guy if he could recreate the issue.
I began to suspect that it was a heating issue. So I installed Temperature Monitor and smcFanControl, and cleaned the fans as much as I could without taking the computer apart. Without smcFC on I tried to recreate the problem and I noticed that the Power Supply Position 1 reached 95 degrees Celsius, and Graphics Processor Temperature Diode reached 97 degrees Celsius before entering sleep mode. I don't know much about temperature sensors and what they monitor specifically, and so I couldn't draw any conclusions from that data. I turned on smcFC and cranked the optical drive speed to 2000 RPM, HDD to 3000, and CPU to 3000. The computer still went to sleep but the temperatures were below 90 degrees Celsius before entering sleep mode. I've tried researching here and on the internet about normal operating temperature ranges of iMacs and generally found that most do reached that temperature but they do not go to sleep mode.
Then I thought it may be a problem with Lion so I upgraded to Mountain Lion. The issue still persisted. Tried resetting SMC and NVRAM, did not resolve issue.
I called the same Apple Store explaining to them that their recommendation of replacing the HDD did not resolve the issue. They told me to bring it in and have them check it out again. I went through the same process I did before; the iMac passed all of their diagnostic tests. The Genius told me this time he will test out the RAM. He called me and told me that he could replicate the problem and so he proceeded to put in a stick of 'good' Apple RAM, but the computer would not work. He said the 'good' Apple RAM was damaged, either before or in the process of putting it in. He plugged in my old stick of RAM and the computer worked. He tried to recreate the problem and claimed that the computer ran for over 24 hours with an existing movie on my HDD playing and it did not go to sleep mode. However, once I brought it home I played the same movie right away and it turned off 17 minutes into the movie. Tried resetting SMC and NVRAM again, ran the movie again, still went to sleep.
And that's the story for now...

Now to find out WHY it does it at home only. How hot is it at home? Have you checked the AC current/voltage at home?
Well they were able to replicate the issue at the Apple Store the second time I left my computer there. Anyway, we don't have any heating on at my house at the moment. It's usually from around 20-23 degrees Celsius (72-75 F). Temperature Monitor says ambient temperature is 30 degree C though...
I'm not really sure how to check the AC current/voltage at home, but my computer worked before I moved it. So I'm not sure if that is the issue.
I normally only have speakers set up to my computer and a wired keyboard. The speakers are powered separately. I would assume that at the Apple Store only the power cord and wired keyboard are connected.
What is the Power Supply Position? And what does it do?
Thanks for your help!

Verizon, can you help me with my Edge Program order?

At the beginning of March, I ordered a new Motorola Ultra for my wife via the Edge Program. Her Samsung Stellar has been giving her problems and we decided to upgrade her phone.
On March 10, 2014, we received an email stating that the phone had shipped. On March 12, 2014 we received notice that FedEx had the phone and that it was available for pick-up at the terminal here in Columbus, Ohio. Upon arrival at the FedEx terminal that evening, my wife was informed that the package was severely damaged and that it would probably be best to refuse delivery which she did.
The following day, I contacted Verizon customer service to inquire what was needed on my end to get another phone. I was told at that time that nothing was needed and that upon receipt of the damaged package and phone that Verizon would ship a new phone.
FedEx shows that Verizon received the damaged package on March 18, 2014. We waited and no new phone was delivered and we did not receive an email stating that one had been shipped.
On March 23, 2014, I contacted Verizon customer service and was told by the representative that she would enter a “ticket” to try and expedite the new phone being sent. She said the phone may not have been checked in yet and that might be causing the delay. She commented about entering a new order for the phone. This representative assured me that the new phone would be shipped by Wednesday or Thursday of that week (March 26 or 27). We waited and received no new email indicating the phone had been shipped.
On Friday, March 28, 2014, I again contacted customer service and was initially informed by the representative that it did not appear the damaged package (phone) had been received by Verizon. Upon checking, she found that it had been received but surmised it had not been “checked in.” She then transferred me to Technical Assistance to see if they could find the status of the returned phone. I spoke with this gentleman who ultimately informed me that when my wife refused delivery of the damaged package (phone) that that contract was nullified and that a new contract was needed. He said that it appeared that a new contract had been initiated but that the terms had yet to be agreed to and finalized. He informed me that I would need to go online that evening and resubmit a new order for a phone under the “Edge Program” and agree to the terms. He also told me that he would call at 8:15 p.m. that night to assist me with this order. This person never called as promised.
On Sunday, March 30, 2014, I again attempted to place a new order for the Motorola Ultra to replace my wife’s phone. I found that there was an “Edge Program Agreement” already in place for this number even though I had never taken possession of the new phone. I again contacted customer service and after some lengthy conversation was assured the “Edge Agreement” would be removed on Monday, March 31, 2014. Also, that after that time, I would be able to enter a new phone order to replace my wife’s Samsung phone. This person said that it takes 7-10 days for Verizon to check-in the returned phone and that that was Verizon policy. She apologized for the previous erroneous information from the other customer service representatives and that she was following policy. Needless to say I was neither happy nor convinced. I was somewhat amazed when, at the end of our conversation, she actually asked me if I was satisfied with the customer service I had received. I found this exceptionally inappropriate considering the circumstances. This told me she was only following a “script” in her dealing with customers.
On March 31, 2014, around 7:00 p.m., I checked my Verizon account online in an attempt to again order a new phone. The Edge Agreement is still attached to the number of the phone I am trying to replace.
My information is as follows:
Daniel
Private info removed as required by the Verizon Wireless Terms of Service
Message was edited by: Admin Moderator

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The mother of all blinking folder/question mark posts.

So here's another question mark/blinking folder post, only I've narrowed things down quite a bit. Let's start from the top.
Powermac G4 quicksilver won't boot, and will only show the infamous blinking folder icon.
-unplugged keyboard and mouse
-unplugged SCSI interface
-unplugged CD drive
-tested memory, all ok
-changed slot RAM uses
-booted with X held down
-booted with C held down
-booted with SHIFT held down
-booted with Option held down (brought up screen with two buttons, but no bootable devices)
-Cleared PRAM
-Cleared NVRAM
-Replaced battery
All of the usual tasks and no results. Dead drive, right? Nope. It won't boot through the HD, or any normally bootable CDs, but when I access Open Firmware (Control+Z), I'm able to view all of the HD's contents (dir hd:\) and all of the contents from whatever CD I put in there (dir cd:\). As it can read from both, but will boot from neither, I'm now thinking it has something to do with the main board.
Has anyone else exhausted the blinking folder issue to the point I have, and still found results somehow? I'll be hooking it up to another mac via firewire tomorrow, but the unbootable CD makes me think that's not the solution. Any ideas on where to go from here? It's way out of warranty by the way.
Thanks in advance for your time everyone!

Hi-
Welcome to Discussions!
Next step, download a copy of the Apple Hardware test, and burn it to CD. I know, your QS isn't cooperating, so I hope you have access to another Mac.
http://www.info.apple.com/support/aht.html
Hopefully the machine will run the AHT fine, and you can run a hardware test. I'm hoping not, but could be the ATA controller on the MOBO.
BTW- you didn't mention booting into single user and running fsck. See what that results in. Startup holding command+s. After the prompt type +/sbin/fsck -fy+ (that is a space between fsck and -fy). Press Return, and see what happens:
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214

Boot off Other Drives Problem

Well I spent some time Playing with this today on my MacPro - and here are the observations I've come up with.
Macintosh HD
- Has OS X 10.6.3
- "Powers Up / Boots" - AND "Restarts" fine.
When System Preferences has this (above) drive selected, the computer Hard Powers, Boots, and restarts normally, and operates as it should.
Macintosh HD 2
- Has OS X 10.6.3
When this drive is selected in the System Preferences, and you attempt to "Hard Power" the computer (From being Shut down), the Screen is just solid Grey. No Apple, No Spinning sprocket, Just Grey. It will remain like this, for as long as 10 to 15 minutes, but it will eventually boot.
Hard powering, with this drive selected as the Startup volume, does NOT go into Verbose mode (At least for 4 minutes of holding Cmd+V - I'm NOT sitting here holding it for 15 minutes)
Hard Powering, with this drive selected as the Startup volume, while holding Option, WILL immediately present the Startup Volume Choices, you can select it, and start up off this volume right away.
Once booted into this Volume, everything operates as it should, the computer even WILL "Restart" with this volume continued to be selected, but if you ever "Shut down", you HAVE to hold Option, to get the Startup Selection, and select it, to startup, otherwise you're back to "Grey Matter"
Troubleshooting
- Both Drives are Same Manufacturer SATA drives in Bays 1 & 2
- No Master / Slave pins present in either (Both shipped with the Computer)
- Both Partition Schemes are GUID
- Macintosh HD 2 (Problem Drive) has been reFormatted, with a Fresh install of OS X 10.6 and Updated with the 10.6.3 COMBO Updater
- Macintosh HD 2 (Problem Drive) has been scanned, verified, permission repaired
Further Testing
- This occurs WITHOUT the presence of anything connected to the computer other then a display.
- Added 3rd Drive. Partitioned GUID, Installed 10.6 - and this drive "Macintosh HD3" behaves the SAME way as Macintosh HD2 - this Syetem will ONLY "Had Power from Off", from "Macintosh HD" - BOTH other system drives, will result in this Grey Screen for 10 minutes, before booting.
Further Troubleshooting
- Reset SMU / NVRAM
- Replaced RAM (16GB of replacement Ram with the original 4GB of Apple Ram that came with Machine)
- As noted, Added a 3rd drive to the system, yielding same results of 2nd drive.
I wish I COULD get this into Verbose mode, from a Hard Power Up, with one of these other drives selected, see what it's pausing on. Someone asked me if it's happening without the Digidesign Cards in the computer (The only outside Hardware), it doesn't "Seem related", and I really don't want to pull the HD3 out of it, until I've tried everything else.
I remember this exact "Grey Screen Problem" happening in about 2005 or 2006 on my G5 HD2 PCIx System. We had it Dual boot, and all the engineers knew that when you "Powered up" this unit, you had to hold Option if you didn't want to wait 15 minutes. And thats how we powered up that system for years (They still do, it's still in operation)
Summary
I can hook up ANY OS installed Drive, and "RESTART" the computer off it - but can't "Power the system up from it", without holding Option down, for All Internal, and External Bootable drives, EXCLUDING my original System Drive, "Macintosh HD" - which will "Power Up" and immediately Boot the system, when it is selected.
Any other ideas ?
System... Harpertown 8 Core 2.8Ghz Machine
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: Mac Pro
Model Identifier: MacPro3,1
Processor Name: Quad-Core Intel Xeon
Processor Speed: 2.8 GHz
Number Of Processors: 2
Total Number Of Cores: 8
L2 Cache (per processor): 12 MB
Memory: 14 GB
Bus Speed: 1.6 GHz
Boot ROM Version: MP31.006C.B05
SMC Version (system): 1.25f4
Serial Number (system):
Hardware UUID: 6EED8ADD-7044-5DF8-B577-9B4AC4F9E955
Message was edited by: *KingFish*

Hey Kappy, thanks so much for your reply and ideas. Sadly this goes beyond "Just the 2 Drives", this computer behaves this way, with ANY other device set to Startup Volume in System Preferences, including FW, USB drives with OS X installations, other Intel Mac's in Target Disk Mode, or Installation CD's - which will ALL boot, and run THIS mac, selecting them in "Option Boot" - but not "POWER UP BOOT", when selected in System Preferences, in OS X. All of these other Volumes, devices and CD's will power up / Boot several OTHER Mac's with no problem - this problem seems to be isolated to this computer.
As far as your ideas about these 2 drives exclusively go...
*Re: 1.* When I decided to try a 3rd drive *in the system* as noted above in my troubleshooting, I not only selected a different manufacturer (Seagate), but I "Double checked" my Partitioning work / Formatting, making ABSOLUTE certain, to partition the drive GUID and format it Journaled / Extended. All drives are reporting identical "Status" in all of these departments in Disk Utility.
*Re: 2.* The OS X Installer not only completed Successfully from the Retail OS X DVD, the COMBO 10.6.3 Update from Apple's Site ran successfully, the Disk with the installation Verifies, in Disk Utility, Permissions report "Repaired", the system "Restarts and Runs" flawlessly off this partition, simply will not "Start / Power Up" from this volume without the 10 minute "Grey Screen Wait" that I mention in the post.
*Re: 3.* This was not cloned, it is a fresh Partition, Format, Instal & Update
*Re: 4.* There are now 2 different drives, from 2 diff mfg's, one Brand new out of the box, exhibiting the same behavior as a completely different drive / installation of OS X - leading me to suspect that this is a "System ISsue"
*Re: 5.* One Drive is a new Seagate, other drive is the WD that shipped w/ the Mac, reporting, reading, testing and verifying fine. - Oddly enough, the only drive NOT displaying this behavior, when selected as the Startup Disk, is a Western Digital.
*Re: OP*
Perhaps a clue, is my mention that this machine will exhibit this "10 minute Grey Screen", attempting to "Power up" from ANY OTHER volume, including FW and USB drives with OS X Installations, OS X Installation DVD's - when Selected in the System Preferences, as the Startup Volume, the computer is "Shut Down" - then "Powered up from Cold"
All of these OS's will run, and operate, even "Restart" just fine, once they are selected by Holding Option, and selecting them.
To repeat... when ANY of these OTHER volumes are specified in the System Preferences as the startup Volume, I can NOT get into Verbose mode, only 2 options
1. Grey Screen for 10 minutes
2. Hold Option and get a list of bootable devices.
Message was edited by: *KingFish*

Attention Out of Range error message

In the middle of booting up, my G3 Mac screen goes black and this message appears: "Attention Out of Range H: 79.8 KHz V: 75.0 Hz". I've noticed the tenths number will sometimes vary, but the result is the same. Once the message appears, I cannot get into my computer. It still makes sounds like it is finishing the boot process, but the screen remains with that message.
The only way to remove it is to reboot from CD and then restart. (The message also appears in the reboot process, but comes out of it once booting is complete). I don't change any settings, just booting from CD will fix it until the next time I shut down the computer. I have an Envision monitor which is set to millions of colors and a resolution of 1024 x 768, 85.00 Hz. My other resolution choices are:
640 x480, 85 Hz
800 x 600, 85 Hz
1280 x 1024, 60 Hz
The computer used to do this only occasionally, usually after one of my kids played an old CD game that would require the computer to change the screen resolution. If the power shut off while the game was active, then I'd get this message. But now it does it every time I boot (with or without the kid's games having been played).
Please help me fix this problem, this is driving me nuts!

Hi, No guru -
The monitor setting left in PRAM governs the initial display setting used by the monitor until the settings in the Display Preferences file (and/or the Monitors Preferences file) become available during the booting process. The settings in those files are usually transferred to PRAM during the shutdown process, so that they are available at the next startup.
Some things that may pertain or help -
1) The settings in PRAM may be mangled. This can happen for no known reason (just one of those things), or can be caused by a too weak or dead internal battery (those batteries have an expected life of only about 4 or 5 years under best-case circumstances). Suggestions for this -
• reset PRAM. This should return the monitor to an initial default setting of 800x600. Once the machine is fully booted, open the Monitors control panel and make sure the setting is the correct one. Then shut down (don't use Restart) and reboot a couple of times.
Article #HT1379 - How to Reset PRAM and NVRAM
• replace the internal battery if it is more than 4 years old, or if it is your practice to leave the machine unplugged regularly or for an extended period. You should be able to find a replacement at places like RadioShack for about US$17, cheaper on-line.
2) Either the Display Preferences or Monitors Preferences file (or both of them) may be damaged or corrupt. The solution for this possibility is to throw away the suspect prefs file, then restart. A new one with default settings will be created automatically. Once restarted (it will probably boot using 800x600 as the resolution), open the Monitors control panel and redo your settings. Then shut down (don't use Restart) and reboot.
3) Make sure that you have the separate Monitors control panel and Sound control panel, and not also a combined Monitors&Sound control panel.
If your G3 is not an iMac (hence has a separate monitor) and the monitor is a CRT type, it may have its own internal PRAM where it retains some settings, even wrong ones. The way to reset that PRAM on many CRT monitors which have separate video and power cables - power everything down, disconnect the video cable from the Mac. Then turn the monitor on, wait 15 to 20 seconds, then turn it off; wait about 10 seconds, then repeat the cycle, 3 or 4 times. Then reconnect the video cable and boot back up.

Images with white backgrounds are grey - macbook pro

When I create an image in photoshop or save an image from the internet with a white background, when I save it, it comes out grey. Photoshop says it's white (#ffffff) but it's not.
For example I made a banner with a white background on photoshop for my blog, which has a white background. But when I saved the image and uploaded it, the background of the image is grey and you can see the difference. How do you get it to be white again?

Took a few more photos, completely dark. It's more apparent when you're looking directly at it. These blemishes are perfectly aligned and centered from each other. The bleeding around the edges seems normal, but also displays large shadows and along other areas the bleeding transitions into the shadow.
Unfortuneately where I live there is no Genius bar to get this taken care of directly and once and for all. The display clearly needs to be replaced and a manufacturer defect, but the "Mac" service guys locally claim the defect is "barely" visible and accused me of causing the damage and claiming the blemish is above certain keys on the keyboard that cause it. Whichever. This MBP has had issues since the day it was purchased, logic board replaced, battery replaced, ultra drive replaced, etc... etc... this is becoming very annoying when I'm writing my Psychology papers for class.
I've been very patient with AppleCare each time I call, but I'm not receiving any support from Apple regarding this issue. Ridiculous!

G5 Dual shuts down unexpectedly

I seem to be having the same problem as many users, where my G5 shuts down by itself at random times. My problem started with the G5 shutting down at night. Prior to that, I had come home on several occasions and the G5's fan was in 747 mode. I had to force shut down the G5, which was unresponsive. Then it would go for days without a problem. Eventually the shut downs came more frequently and now it shuts down during startup every time. Consequently, I can't even start up the G5 to check logs or run DiskWarrior, etc. Since every post on this issue seems to have gone unanswered, I am beginning to think my only option is to buy a new iMac. That said, I'd rather not spend the money in this troubled economy and would like to find a fix. Here's what I was able to do so far:
- Reinstalled OS 10.5.8 combo updater
- Reset PRAM
- Replaced PRAM battery, reset PRAM
- Reset NVRAM
- Repaired permissions
- Unplug G5 and plug in after 30 sec
- Attempted boot from TTP5 DVD (still shut down)
If I back up or clone my system HD, would I be able to retrieve log information from it (attached to another Mac, I assume)?
Is anyone aware of this problem being solved for any other user?
Has anybody recently taken up this issue with Apple? How did they handle it?
Thanks for any help.

You wouldn't believe what's happening now. I tried all the suggestions given me:
-reset PRAM
-reset NVRAM
-replaced PRAM battery
-unplug 30 sec. and then reboot
-cleaned out dust on fans
-repaired permissions
-ran TechTool Pro 5 (all the tests and repairs - directories, defrag files, etc.) successfully. It performed all the repairs and defragmented the disk.
-Successfully ran DiskWarrior 4.2. By the way, DW4 found a lot of fragments and directory issues on a hard drive that TTP5 said were completely defragmented and repaired.
Anyway, after doing all that I was able to boot the G5 and use Firefox (Safari 4 and 5 don't run on the G5 - they hang on startup - but that's a problem for another day), Word, Entourage, Disk Utility and Keychain Access. The G5 stayed on for several days until today. Once I felt confident that the problem was solved, I shut down, reattached all of my peripherals, and booted up successfully. However, when I went to open an app, the first time I clicked on it the G5 shut down again. Now when I reboot the first thing I see is an OS9 style folder with a question mark on it. A second later the little OS9 folder has the old blue Mac face. From there it seems to boot up normally except that during the boot process the screen goes completely white and stays that way for 5-10 min. before completing startup.
I'm almost at my wits' end on this one. I really like my G5 and would rather keep it than get that new iMac I've been drooling over but can't afford. This thing is getting out of control. I need to check each peripheral to figure out which is the offending one, but assuming that isn't the problem, it's starting to feel like I need a new logic board or something. At this point, does anybody think this is fixable?

TS1381 My left arrow does not work on my macbook pro(model A1226). I have reset nvram, performed a safe boot, pulled the cache to desktop, replaced .globalpreference.plist, test all other keys with keyboard view (all others work) - HELP!!

My left arrow does not work on my macbook pro(model A1226).
I have reset nvram, performed a safe boot, pulled the cache to desktop, replaced .globalpreference.plist, & tested all other keys with "keyboard viewer" (all other keys work except for the arrow).
In addition, I have gone thru all the recommended checks with universal access and have booted from snow leopard dvd and the left arrow still does not work.
I have tried using the left arrow key in all of applications I use such as: excel, ms word, address book, calendar, iphoto, terminal, & highlighting an icon and using the arrows to move to another selected icon.
Here is the kicker! In addition, I purchased a logitech solar bluetooth keyboard and the arrows work fine with my ipad but do not work when paired with the macbook pro. All other keys work fine on the macbook pro using the bluetooth keyboard.
I believe this says that the problem is not in my macbook pro keyboard. So where can it be?
Can anyone think of any other rabbit holes I can search?
thanks and regards
vats3

I would also like to add that I've reverted the two cd drive and hard drive mods I did and the laptop is back to factory hardware and there is 0 corrosion or mold visible.

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I wish to purchase replacement keys for my Ultra Dock - but the only link I can find is for ITXchange based in North America.
The key price is a reasonable £12 GBP but the delivery charge is around £38 GBP from Canada.
Surely, there must be a UK or EU based supplier for an International company like Lenovo?
Does any one know?
Thanks!
Moderator comment: Please don't post the same message(s) in multiple places as it splinters the discussion. Duplicate(s) removed.

Hi harry66,
ITXchange are also located in Paisley, Scotland and the company is, to my knowledge, the only source of replacement docking keys. When I used to deal with them if something wasn't available from UK stocks it would automatically be offered from one of their other worldwide distribution centres, this obviously resulting in some "extra" transport costs.
https://shop.itxchange.com/OA_HTML/page-contact-us-locations.jsp
Andy
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