Unsure PSU compability

My old MSI board has failed and I purchased a new 945P Platinum.
I had to buy new RAM and processor to go with this board.
I didn't know that this board can't fit an AGP display card, so I had to go get a new PCI-Express display card
And now, I found out that my PSU possibly not compatible with this motherboard.
It's a Coolermaster Real Power 450 (RS-450-ACLY).
I read the manual and it seems that 945P Platinum mainboard needs 3 power connectors connected to the board to ensure stable operation.
1. ATX 24-Pin Power Connector: ATX1 (I believe my PSU has it)
2. ATX 12V Power Connector: JPW1 (8 Pin, I can't find an 8 pin connector on my PSU)
3. ATX2 (4 Pin, do I use the 4 Pin molex connector that I normally use to connect my PATA hard drives to connect it to the board?)
Below questions is for point number 2 above regarding the ATX 12V Power Connector.
Can I use a convertor to convert my current 4-pin ATX 12V to the required 8-pin EPS 12V?
http://www.antron.com/accessories/pstomb.html (Look at the 4th picture)
Thanks in advanced.

yes, you need the 6-pin PCI Express connector but usually PCI Express display card will provide the 1x4 molex pin to 6-pin convertor for you to make the card compatible with all power supplies.
2x10 ATX cable is compatible with 2x12 ATX1 onboard. Must plug to board
2x2 ATX12V cable is compatible with the JPW1 2x4 on board. Must plug to board.
ATX2, the 4-pin molex. It's for peripherals like your display card. This is optional. In case the board cannot power on, then only you plug this in.
You may not need 2x2 to 2x4 convertor unless you run into trouble powering on your board.

Similar Messages

FX5200 causing system instability? (Fixed with new PSU)

The background: I've been battling this one for three weeks now. I've had a new system for a couple of months, prebuild barebones with specs noted in signature. About 3 weeks ago I started having random crashes, lockups, bluescreens with win98Se. This was after installing an ATI tv tuner card, although the system was stable for a week after that. I also started playing 3d games more, and hadn't done this before - I mention this because it may have been heat related and 3d causes the temp to rise - true?. After I started having random crashes, I tried updating the video drivers to MSI 52.16, thinking that may help. The install seemed to go ok, although when trying to sync without powerstrip (can go to 60Hz with Nvidia utility), that didn't work. Shortly after that, the system really started locking up, with BSOD's and crashes and became so unstable I couldn't even bring up Windows (kept getting protection error).
Other factors: The MSI FX5200 card is the cheaper version with the heatsink, not the fan. I also have 2 hard drives hooked in, one of which was having issues. I unplugged that once the trouble started. The system is also probably too close to a heat vent, which may have contributed to the issue.
Anyway, the troubleshooting: I took out all non-essential cards and got down to a bare-bones system. Reinstalled the OS after reformatting the hard drive - still flaky. Tried WinME - still flaky. Swapped out memory - still flaky. Put in different video card (older MSI MX440), and system is now stable.
My question: Is my FX5200 video card fried for sure? I don't want to try it in a different system, in case it starts flaking out there, causing damage and PITA recovery on that system. Or could the video card be OK, and I just somehow weakened the PSU, causing it to not be able to handle even a barebones system?
Please advise. Mercy please, I'm a newbie at hardware...

I picked up a new power supply, but it may not be big enough - specs are pretty similar to current one. It's an Antec SmartPower 400W: +5v@38A, +3.3v@28A, +12v@18A. 5&3.3v combined=240W, plus 12v=380W. I can sure try it, but if you think I should get one with more power, I'd rather look into getting the Antec 430 or equivalent instead. Let me know. Ironically, this was the only part of the system I didn't research fully before the build. I now see the error of my ways...
I'm leaning away from the video card as the problem, as things have started flaking out again, even though I still have in the MSI Gf2 440 card along with the barebones config. (So, it's happened with 2 different cards.) I fired up the system last night, and Windows didn't even startup completely before it locked up. I wonder, could this be entirely heat related? It was a cold night and the heat was blasting and the front of the case is unfortunately only 1 foot away. I am waiting for extension cords for vga, coming this Friday, so I can move the unit across the room.
Regarding your driver question, I haven't even loaded the vga drivers, just the mobo ones. So, it's running 16 color @ 640x480.
I did look at the heatsink on the 5200 card as you suggested. It doesn't look great in terms of contact - looks like it's separated from the board more than what I remember when I first installed it. I haven't taken it off to look closer, and I'm (obviously) no expert on this and unsure what to look for. Since it's less likely that it's the video card, and I'm not really sure what I'm doing anyway, I'll probably hold off on this path until after PSU swapout/testing.
I'm really learning a lot, and I thank you very much for your time!

What causes my instability? CPU? RAM? PSU?

Hallo community,
let me start with a short description of my problem:
I am unable to get my system (see signature for details) working stable in synchronous mode: when both, CPU and RAM, are working at a FSB (or HTT) of 200 MHz, the system crashes randomly with various error messages (mostly memory related). It is possible to reduce the number of crashes by using memory slot 2 or 3 instead of 1, but the system is still unstable. The currently only way to solve this is setting the memory to 166 MHz in the BIOS. It should be mentioned that with the former motherboard (K8X800 PRO 2 from ALBATRON based on VIAs K8T800) everything was fine.
What i have already tried:
First of all, i replaced the motherboard with the AN51R from SHUTTLE - no difference, as long as CPU and RAM works with 200 MHz, the system is highly unstable. I tried various RAM sticks -A-DATA, CORSAIR, GEIL and KINGSTON- but also without success.
What i consider to try:
I feel unsure. In one of the guides it was recommended to use a PSU that deliveres at least 24A on the 12V rail - my TAGAN deliveres "only" 22A. Since i can solve my problem by reducing the memory frequency, i do not believe that replacing the PSU will help. What remains ist the CPU: i own a CLAWHAMMER stepping and i know well that the newer NEWCASTLE stepping uses a revised memory controller. On the other hand, this CPU did fine while using a different chipset. As i told - i feel unsure.
Any help is highly welcome.
Thank you in advance,
JePe

One stick (512 mb) in currently slot 3 - since this worked best for me. And no, i did nor ran memtest until now, since ... i do not own a floppy drive . Beside this, i really cant imagine that all memory sticks i tried had the same weaknesses.
Greetings,
JePe

Games Crashing; Possibly Overheat or PSU Issue?

I've been grappling with this problem for a couple weeks, and I think I've narrowed it down to either an overheating or power supply issue.
I get system crashes while playing games. I've never had a crash in 2-D mode. I only have three games installed right now - Battlefield 1942, Call of Duty and IL-2:FB/AEP.
I installed SpeedFan last night and configured it to display my CPU temp in the system tray. At idle it is running at 40-41. I then started up Call of Duty singleplayer. Within 20 seconds of starting the game, the CPU temp jumped to 52. As I continued to play, the temp gradually rose to hover at 55-56. It leveled out at this temperature for about 15 minutes, then it locked up. I rebooted and immediately went back into the game, and this time it locked up after about 15 seconds. I tried again and it locked after 15 seconds or so again. IL-2 locks after anywhere from 10 to 45 minutes, with no apparent pattern. Battlefield 1942 only locks after a long time, 2 hours or so. Since I don't usually play this game for such a long time, BF1942 hasn't crashed in a while.
When a crash occurs, the video and sound both stop completely. There's an annoying buzzing sound from the speakers. Keyboard and mouse are unresponsive. I have to press the power button to solve it.
I've tried updating video and sound card drivers, reinstalling DX9, lowering hardware sound acceleration to standard instead of full in DX9, changing display resolutions both in Display Properties and in each game, and just about everything else I know to do.
Here's my specs:
Intel Pentium 4 2.8GHz HTT w/ 800MHz FSB
MSI 856PE Neo2-P mobo chipset (unsure of BIOS version, don't know how to check)
1GB Kingston PC3200 DDR RAM @ 400MHz (2x512MB sticks)
Maxtor 6Y120M0 120GB HDD
Diamond Viper Radeon 9600XT 256MB (Catalyst 4.9s)
Creative SB Live 5.1 (latest drivers)
Ultra ATX Switching PSU 400W, Model #WIN-400PS
+3.3V = 15.0A
+5V = 30.0A
+12V = 17.0
-5V = 0.6A
-12V = 0.6A
+5VSB = 2.0A
At first I thought it was a problem with the CPU overheating. I posted this problem on another forum and someone replied saying that P4s shouldn't even be getting into the 50C degree range. Then I came on here and read about people's Prescotts running at 70 or even 80C. Even under heavy load, I've never seen my temp reading go past 57. I have two 120mm rear case fans which both run at max RPM all the time, and another in the side of the case. The CPU fan runs at high RPM all the time as well. Multiple programs show minimal case temperature increases under load. The video card has no heat sensor, but there are two free PCI slots below it, so there is plenty of breathing room. I have the case off and a house fan blowing directly into the case and across the video card.
I read something saying that 20 or 21A was required on the "12V strip" or something like that (sorry if I butchered the terminology, I am new to this technical hardware deal). According to the label on the PSU, it is supplying 17A @ 12V.
I have Speedfan, Motherboard Monitor 5, Sisoft Sandra and Everest Home Edition installed, so I can give outputs from those programs if needed, assuming someone tells me how.
Sorry if I screwed up royally and didn't give the correct information, today is the first time I've ever read this forum.
Thanks in advance for any help.
EDIT: I read in another thread here where someone had a similarly unstable system, and someone said to go into the BIOS and change the "RAM voltage" (sorry again for possible butchering) or somesuch from the default 2.5 to 2.65 or above. I went into my BIOS and found such a setting. Mine was set on 2.6. The only option it gave me to change to was 3.00V. There was a warning message on the right side saying values in white were safe values, yellow were high-performance, and red were unrecommended settings possibly resulting in system instability. I switched it to 3.00V just to see what it would do, but it was listed in red, so I went back to 2.60.

Quote
Originally posted by Danny
In order these would be my choices from that site:
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=923509&CatId=1078
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=923508&CatId=1078
Go to Enermax's web site for spec's. These people didn't copy them correctly.
I'm a bit wary about the dual 12V rails that these PSUs have. I went to the Enermax website and it lists each rail seperately, one is 16A and the other is 15A. They'll both be used at the same time, right? Because if not, they'll be supplying even less power than my current one, and will make my crashing problem even worse.
From the Enermax website:
Quote
Independent 12V rails supply to MB/CPU and drives in order to provide stable and clean current to noise-sensitive devices, such as: CPU, add-on cards.Meet UL 240VA safety requirements
I just want to make sure this thing will work correctly before I place the order. Also, is there a special installation procedure for dual rails? I probably won't be doing it myself, but will be getting an experienced computer person from on-campus tech support to help me out.

IMac G4 20" PSU Connector

Trying to confirm my suspicion of a bad logic board on my machine. The machine turns on but freezes shortly thereafter. Screen displays video, the red LED turns on at the bottom. The test points underneath check fine. Though, the 12VSLP I am unsure of.
Apple Service Source Manual reads under No Power (pg 15, step 12) to check Power Supply Output with the clip upwards and the ground on the lower left hand side. I am getting +12v on the upper 4 from right to left. According to the manual, above the ground, I am supposed to get +12v as well, but I am not getting any readings.
Of course, the guide shows a 14 pin connector and I have a 16 pin connector, so there is a bit of confusion as well.
A kernel panic did display; System Failure: cpu=0. I was told by an Apple Store that when the cpu=0 then it is a logic board. I really would have preferred if he had checked the test points instead.
Perhaps there is more than 1 component that is giving me the shaft.
Any clarifications highly appreciated.

Perhaps the different part numbers for the iMac G4 17" and the
iMac G4 20" power supply reflect a difference in the connectors
as well as other subtle variations?
While I have the similar Apple Service Manual for iMac G4 1.25
mine says 17" model on the front page of the pdf document file.
And a separate image comparing the USB2.0 15"/17"/20" iMac
G4 models and major internal parts, the expanded views do have
different numbers on some important sections parts.
Is the service manual for the 20" specifically? The pin count of
the power supply unit may vary due to the power unit used; yet
in some document (have no hard copy or web url to verify, now)
I read showed a replacement power supply for a later 17" model
would work in a 20" iMac G4 model. The PSU item, listed for sale.
Perhaps now that contributor, 'spudnutty' has relocated to Idaho,
and has a computer out of the moving box, he may see your post
with some ideas on the inner sanctum of the magic iMac G4 box?
Is there a possibility, the 16 pin connector vs 14 pin, may have two
unused pin locations? (I'd suspect all may have a wire to someplace.)
Hmmm...
Good luck & happy computing!

Availability of Inspire P580 PSU in the US?

Hi,
I'll shortly be moving from the UK to the US, and I own a UK-bought Inspire P580 5.1 speaker set. Due to the voltage difference (220/240V vs 110/120V) I'd need a new, US-sourced 110V PSU in order to use the speakers in the US.
Is it possible to buy a compatible PSU from Creative Labs US? Are there any third-party PSUs I could use instead?
TA

If it's an external power supply. The answer is YES!

PSU causing lock ups when gaming? K9A2 Platinum

I am having black screen and occasionally grey screen lock ups when Im playing games. It can happen within 10 minutes or up to an hour. I have to press the power button to restart and dont get any windows errors or blue screen. I have no issues when watching videos or just tooling around. My PSU is a OCZ600MXSP and Im thinking its not up to spec. I have everything running stock. Is it likely my PSU doesnt cut it or is the black/grey screen freeze thing an cpu/gpu overheating issue?

All of my drivers are up to date (I do use driver sweeper as well). It happens pretty much in all games, from BFBC2 and TF2 to some crappy kid game my son plays online (Wizard 101?). Im not sure what the temps are under load but at idle they are good (cant recall what exactly they were but were in the proper temp range). My monitor has just finally died as Im typing this on my laptop (bad caps on power board ) so Ill test the temps while gaming when I can hook it up to my big LCD.
Could the lock up with no blue screen/error report indicate a component overheating?

PSU Query for MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU running 3000xp

Hi There,
Before buying a new Motherboard I was just wondering if the problems I'm getting are related to the PSU which is about 5 years old. I've just upgraded my processor to a Athlon 3000 XP 333 FSB which goes into the MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU (MS-6380E v1.X) motherbaord, which I've upgraded the Bios to version 5.7, I've also upgraded my graphics card to the Leadtek Geforce FX5900XT which also plugs into the PSU. When setting my fsb to 166 my PC either won't boot or when I try to run say 3DMark it just freezes, but when I set my FSB to 133 it works fine. I was wondering if it is trying to draw too much power from the CPU.
I don't really know how to write the PSU details down correctly so I've just copied everything from the unit.
Power Man MN :- FSP 300 - 60 BT
AC Input - 115/230v~, 10/5A, 60/50 HZ
DC Output - +3.3V 14.0A(org), +5V - 30.0A(red), +12v - 11.0A (yel) + 5VSB
- 2.0A (purp), -5V - 0.3A (white), -12V - 0.8A(blue)
Fuse Rating 6.3A, 250V
Max Output Power 300W (+3.3V&+5V=150W Max)
Hope this makes sense,
Thanks in Advance,
Paul.

Thanks for that, What would you got for between these two :-
is 550w better than 420w? and is ATX 2.03 just the normal ATX size?
Hiper PSU ATX 420W Active PFC SF-420TS Dual Fan, Silent/Temp Ctrl
1,PRODUCT FEATURES:
Active PFC;
Double Ball-Bearing Fan;
Dual Fan;
Gold Plated Connectors and fan grill;
Adjustable fan speed - Silent function.
Product Description Hiper 420TS - power supply - 420 Watt
Device Type Power supply
Form Factor Internal
Specification Compliance ATX 2.03
Output Voltage +3.3, ±5, ±12 V
Power Provided 420 Watt
2,Q-Tec PSU ATX 550W Gold PFC Dual Fan PSU for PIII/AMD/P4 CPUs
PRODUCT FEATURES:
550 Watt PSU;
Suitable for ATX systems and Pentium 4;
2 fans inside for optimal cooling;
Noise level less than 33 dB (A);
Complies to latest PFC power distortion standards.
Product Description Q-Tec Dual Fan Gold power supply - 550 Watt
Device Type Power supply
Form Factor Internal
Dimensions (WxDxH) 15 cm x 14 cm x 8.5 cm
Input Voltage AC 230 V
Power Provided 550 Watt
Thanks,
Paul.

HT4972 I am unsure of this update. Do you recommend putting my entire itunes library onto a separate hard drive while i do the latest update? I was told everything in my itunes library as well as my ipod touch would be lost if i do the latest update. Plea

Im unsure of this update. Do you recommend putting my entire itunes library on a separate hard drive while i do this update? I was told everthing in my itunes library as well as my ipod touch would be lost if i update it. Please help.

Who told you that?
I would stop listen to him if he is providing that kind of advice.
Allan

PSU and Video card upgrade for HP e9280t

Hello, I wanted to upgrade my PSU and video card. The PSU I would like to get is the SeaSonic S12II 620 Bronze 620W (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151096&Tpk=17-151-096) but I wasn't sure if my computer could handle and hold the PSU. The video card I would like to get is the EVGA 01G-P3-1561-AR GeForce GTX 560 Ti (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130604) but im not sure if my computer can handle this too. I have a HP Pavilion Elite e9280t CTO Desktop PC (http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/product?cc=us&lc=en&dlc=en&product=4066665) can someone please tell me if I can upgrade to the PSU and Video card?

Stuart, welcome to the forum.
The truth is, any video card that will run properly with the 300W PSU in the computer, will not be much better than the integrated video. Most newer mid-level cards require a PSU with a minimum of 400W watts. I have searched for other members many times without any luck. If you want to upgrade the PSU, it will give you far more options.
Please click "KUDOS" if I have helped you and click "Accept as Solution" if your problem is solved.
Signature:
HP TouchPad - 1.2 GHz; 1 GB memory; 32 GB storage; WebOS/CyanogenMod 11(Kit Kat)
HP 10 Plus; Android-Kit Kat; 1.0 GHz Allwinner A31 ARM Cortex A7 Quad Core Processor ; 2GB RAM Memory Long: 2 GB DDR3L SDRAM (1600MHz); 16GB disable eMMC 16GB v4.51
HP Omen; i7-4710QH; 8 GB memory; 256 GB San Disk SSD; Win 8.1
HP Photosmart 7520 AIO
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**Click the Thumbs Up+ to say 'Thanks' and the 'Accept as Solution' if I have solved your problem.**
Intelligence is God given; Wisdom is the sum of our mistakes!
I am not an HP employee.

Video Card and PSU upgrade for HP pavilion p6310y?

Hello,
I am a mild gamer and I would like to upgrade my video card so I could play games like minecraft and maplestory without my frame rate dropping every 5-10 min. When this happens it sounds like the fan in my computer is working really hard and the game is almost unplayable. I also play a few games from steam such as Gmod and Borderlands, however the games that seem less graphic intensive give me more problems.
Should I and am I able to upgrade the video card and psu for this HP pavilion p6310y? or possibly get a better card for these game without upgrading psu?
Processor is Quade core AMD Athlon II X4 630 / 2.8 GHz
6gigs of ram
1 tb harddrive
NVIDIA GeForce 9100
300 watt power supply
Windows 7 64 bit
Any help would be much appreciated!

Hi,
Yuo might try updating the video driver from the NVIDIA web site.
Your PC has a 300 watt power supply. If you don't need DirectX 11 (used for better detail in newer games), then the NVIDIA GT 240 1GB or 512 MB DDR5 is about tops for a 300 watt power supply.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Another video card/PSU upgrade for HP Pavilion p6565uk

Hi there
I want to upgrade from the basic Nvidia card and 300W psu provided with my HP Pavilion P6565UK, purchased a few months ago.
I am looking at either a Corsair CX 600W or an Antec HCG-750W, I am not sure if there is a difference, and an EVGA Nvidia superclocked GTX550Ti card.
I am however really not technically minded and I am not sure how to go about making sure that these products will be suitable before I purchase them.
I have 3D gaming in mind (I have a 120hz screen) as I am a Warcraft player.
Hope someone can help point me in the right direction or hold my hand as I am hopeless with stuff like this!

Hi,
You might have issues getting the Antec HCG-750W to fit. Do some measuring and see it will fit, particularly the distance between the power supply and the optical drive. I have see where PSUs of 750 and greater have failed to work in some HP PC's.
Go with the Corsair CX600 or the CX500.
I noticed that EVGA has lowered the PSU requirements for some video cards. Look at this information for the 550 TI superclocked.
HP DV9700, t9300, Nvidia 8600, 4GB, Crucial C300 128GB SSD
HP Photosmart Premium C309G, HP Photosmart 6520
HP Touchpad, HP Chromebook 11
Custom i7-4770k,Z-87, 8GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650,GTX 760
Custom i7-4790k,Z-97, 16GB, Vertex 3 SSD, Plextor M.2 SSD, Samsung EVO SSD, Corsair HX650, GTX 660TI
Windows 7/8 UEFI/Legacy mode, MBR/GPT

Need Help - Unsure What To Do - On Edge Plan and They Have My Device

I am in need of help or advice and do not know where else to turn other then here. I am trying to get in touch with upper management in reference to my account.
I recently purchased a Note 3 on the edge program only to be disappointed with what was to follow. On the first day of owning the device I was truly fascinated with all the option that I now had in my hands. Along with the capabilities of the device itself. On day two the device deactivated itself, not really sure how this happened and of course either was tech support but after an hour and a half on the phone they ended up telling me to put a different sim card in the phone in order to get it work correctly. At this point I was kinda of skeptical of the device, considering this was only day two of owning it. Sad to say, but my intuition was absolutely correct. A few days later I started having issues with the camera, so i took it in to the store to have them swap it out since it was still under the 14 day period, only to be told that there was nothing wrong with the device. I tried to explain to the sells rep that the pictures where coming out blurry and showed him a few examples. Of course the rep fed me full of nonsense in order to keep from swapping the phone out. A few days later I started having issues with incoming calls, I would have to say "Hello" a minimum of three times before the person on the other line would hear me. I then called Verizon and told them I wanted to have the phone replaced and explained to them that maybe I just got a lemon, no harm, no foul, just to send me a new phone and call it a day. Well I was sure in for a loop, the rep explains to me that only the stores can swap out or replace the phones with a new device. I tried to explain to the rep that the stores here are notorious for misleading customers so they do not have to replace or swap out the devices. The rep again told me there was nothing I could do unless i wanted a certified pre-owned device. I told them I would attempt the store again. After numerous times calling in to tech support and visiting the store, the issues with the device increased. I was now having camera issues, call issues, phone calling itself in my vehicle all the time, screen going grey, charging issues, and the last people stating that I was echoing.
It is now the 14th day and I called in and explained to the rep that I needed to have the phone swapped out or return it. The rep went on to explain to me that since it was the 14th day that i couldn't return unless i paid a restocking fee. I explained to him all that I had been through and he agreed to replace the phone with a new device. Well, a few days roll by and no device but I did receive an envelope in the mail from verizon with a prepaid shipping tag. I called back to verizon and explained to them what I had received and what I should have received. Only to be told once again that i would have to go to the store, but on this instance I was to ask for a manager and have them replace the device. She was to put everything in the notes so there would be no issues. I arrive at the store, check in, wait the normal hour wait and finally get helped by the manager. The manager tells me on the camera issue that it is far worst then most adroid phones on the market today. I explained to him how I was told it was the same as the camera in the S4 he told me it wasn't and that the sales rep over the phone don't know what they are talking about, he also explained to me that they are inexperienced and have no training. He explained to me that they know the product better because they touch it everyday. I then told him i was just there to swap it out and thats all i wanted. He told me that there was nothing wrong with my phone. I told him about the call issue, his response to that was, your getting dropped calls because you are picking up all the wifi open networks in the area. I told him I didn't state i was having problem with dropping calls, I told him I was having issues with incoming calls. I then showed him, he of course saw it and said that all Note 3 devices do that. I asked him about the charging issued, his response to that, call Samsung they know about the problem and will take care of the issue. Ok, what about the phone calling in itself in my vehicle now, never did that before, he states, you need to turn off the bluetooth, wifi and other networks. I told him that doesn't make sense and that I had already had the Acura dealer look at it. He told me they software in the vehicle was probably out of date and that the techs don't really update that kind of stuff. So I told him, in other words i have a dumb phone since I can't use anything on it. That doesn't make since. He explained to me that he did not see anything wrong with the device, despite the fact that he saw all these issues.
At this point I call back to Verizon wireless and ask them what they would like me to do, since they won't swap it or let me ship it back. They agreed to replace it with a certified device, and of course out of frustration I agree. Naturally after cooling off and talking with my wife, we had both agreed that this was unacceptable especially since we where paying full price. I agreed with her and called Verizon the next morning and told them to cancel the order, they agreed and of course after an hour of telling my whole story, which sorry It would be a novel it I wrote everything that happened, they agreed to have their manager call me back in four hours. Well we have all heard that before, I definitely wasn't going to hold my breath.
A day passes and I call back to find out what the status was on the new device, only to be told there is no new device. They get me over to tech support, since apparently they are the only ones who can replace a device with a new device, and after an hour and a half I am told I would have one shipped out next day air, that it had been approved by upper management. They explained to me to refuse the one that was coming, since they never canceled it, and use the prepaid label I had to ship the original Note 3 back. Of course not using my head I do just exactly that, so now I have no phones and guess what, the one they said they where going to send me, it is sitting out there in la la land.
I call back on my day off, I actually spend 6 hours of it on the phone with verizon, to be laughed at, lied to and belittled by verizon employees. I finally get a manager by the name of Natalie Thomas, she explains to me that first she needed to receive the original device in her warehouse before she could do anything. She also explained to me that she would check it everyday until it got there and once it did she would be in contact with me. She also gave me her email so we could communicate back and forth. It was all great until verizon actually received the phone, after that she has no longer answered any of my emails or calls. I am still without a device and being charged for it. Now every time i called in, everyone had seen the order for the new device, except for Natalie Thomas.
It has now been four days and I have still not heard anything, so I went a head and paid my bill minus the fees for the new device only to receive an email 7 hours later threading to suspend my account and be charged more fees. So, naturally i call them and speak with Cynthia, she explains that she also sees that same order that has been in there since the 29th of May but is unsure as to why it has not shipped. She explained to me forutantely you got in touch with the same department that did the order so they could take care of it. She then told me a manager would call me back in 30 minutes to finalize this order and get this phone finally on its way.
It has now been 4 hours and I have still not heard anything. So, with all this said and done, minus a few other calls, does anyone know how I can get in touch with upper management to get my account resolved? I know have a $699.00 bill for a device that I do not have, no Note 3, and all the fees to go with it. I'm not sure calling will do anything since I can't get anyone to call me back anyways.
Any advice we truly be appreciated, or if someone has a way to get a hold of upper management that would be a huge help.
Thanks
Jason

I am in need of help or advice and do not know where else to turn other then here. I am trying to get in touch with upper management in reference to my account.
I recently purchased a Note 3 on the edge program only to be disappointed with what was to follow. On the first day of owning the device I was truly fascinated with all the option that I now had in my hands. Along with the capabilities of the device itself. On day two the device deactivated itself, not really sure how this happened and of course either was tech support but after an hour and a half on the phone they ended up telling me to put a different sim card in the phone in order to get it work correctly. At this point I was kinda of skeptical of the device, considering this was only day two of owning it. Sad to say, but my intuition was absolutely correct. A few days later I started having issues with the camera, so i took it in to the store to have them swap it out since it was still under the 14 day period, only to be told that there was nothing wrong with the device. I tried to explain to the sells rep that the pictures where coming out blurry and showed him a few examples. Of course the rep fed me full of nonsense in order to keep from swapping the phone out. A few days later I started having issues with incoming calls, I would have to say "Hello" a minimum of three times before the person on the other line would hear me. I then called Verizon and told them I wanted to have the phone replaced and explained to them that maybe I just got a lemon, no harm, no foul, just to send me a new phone and call it a day. Well I was sure in for a loop, the rep explains to me that only the stores can swap out or replace the phones with a new device. I tried to explain to the rep that the stores here are notorious for misleading customers so they do not have to replace or swap out the devices. The rep again told me there was nothing I could do unless i wanted a certified pre-owned device. I told them I would attempt the store again. After numerous times calling in to tech support and visiting the store, the issues with the device increased. I was now having camera issues, call issues, phone calling itself in my vehicle all the time, screen going grey, charging issues, and the last people stating that I was echoing.
It is now the 14th day and I called in and explained to the rep that I needed to have the phone swapped out or return it. The rep went on to explain to me that since it was the 14th day that i couldn't return unless i paid a restocking fee. I explained to him all that I had been through and he agreed to replace the phone with a new device. Well, a few days roll by and no device but I did receive an envelope in the mail from verizon with a prepaid shipping tag. I called back to verizon and explained to them what I had received and what I should have received. Only to be told once again that i would have to go to the store, but on this instance I was to ask for a manager and have them replace the device. She was to put everything in the notes so there would be no issues. I arrive at the store, check in, wait the normal hour wait and finally get helped by the manager. The manager tells me on the camera issue that it is far worst then most adroid phones on the market today. I explained to him how I was told it was the same as the camera in the S4 he told me it wasn't and that the sales rep over the phone don't know what they are talking about, he also explained to me that they are inexperienced and have no training. He explained to me that they know the product better because they touch it everyday. I then told him i was just there to swap it out and thats all i wanted. He told me that there was nothing wrong with my phone. I told him about the call issue, his response to that was, your getting dropped calls because you are picking up all the wifi open networks in the area. I told him I didn't state i was having problem with dropping calls, I told him I was having issues with incoming calls. I then showed him, he of course saw it and said that all Note 3 devices do that. I asked him about the charging issued, his response to that, call Samsung they know about the problem and will take care of the issue. Ok, what about the phone calling in itself in my vehicle now, never did that before, he states, you need to turn off the bluetooth, wifi and other networks. I told him that doesn't make sense and that I had already had the Acura dealer look at it. He told me they software in the vehicle was probably out of date and that the techs don't really update that kind of stuff. So I told him, in other words i have a dumb phone since I can't use anything on it. That doesn't make since. He explained to me that he did not see anything wrong with the device, despite the fact that he saw all these issues.
At this point I call back to Verizon wireless and ask them what they would like me to do, since they won't swap it or let me ship it back. They agreed to replace it with a certified device, and of course out of frustration I agree. Naturally after cooling off and talking with my wife, we had both agreed that this was unacceptable especially since we where paying full price. I agreed with her and called Verizon the next morning and told them to cancel the order, they agreed and of course after an hour of telling my whole story, which sorry It would be a novel it I wrote everything that happened, they agreed to have their manager call me back in four hours. Well we have all heard that before, I definitely wasn't going to hold my breath.
A day passes and I call back to find out what the status was on the new device, only to be told there is no new device. They get me over to tech support, since apparently they are the only ones who can replace a device with a new device, and after an hour and a half I am told I would have one shipped out next day air, that it had been approved by upper management. They explained to me to refuse the one that was coming, since they never canceled it, and use the prepaid label I had to ship the original Note 3 back. Of course not using my head I do just exactly that, so now I have no phones and guess what, the one they said they where going to send me, it is sitting out there in la la land.
I call back on my day off, I actually spend 6 hours of it on the phone with verizon, to be laughed at, lied to and belittled by verizon employees. I finally get a manager by the name of Natalie Thomas, she explains to me that first she needed to receive the original device in her warehouse before she could do anything. She also explained to me that she would check it everyday until it got there and once it did she would be in contact with me. She also gave me her email so we could communicate back and forth. It was all great until verizon actually received the phone, after that she has no longer answered any of my emails or calls. I am still without a device and being charged for it. Now every time i called in, everyone had seen the order for the new device, except for Natalie Thomas.
It has now been four days and I have still not heard anything, so I went a head and paid my bill minus the fees for the new device only to receive an email 7 hours later threading to suspend my account and be charged more fees. So, naturally i call them and speak with Cynthia, she explains that she also sees that same order that has been in there since the 29th of May but is unsure as to why it has not shipped. She explained to me forutantely you got in touch with the same department that did the order so they could take care of it. She then told me a manager would call me back in 30 minutes to finalize this order and get this phone finally on its way.
It has now been 4 hours and I have still not heard anything. So, with all this said and done, minus a few other calls, does anyone know how I can get in touch with upper management to get my account resolved? I know have a $699.00 bill for a device that I do not have, no Note 3, and all the fees to go with it. I'm not sure calling will do anything since I can't get anyone to call me back anyways.
Any advice we truly be appreciated, or if someone has a way to get a hold of upper management that would be a huge help.
Thanks
Jason

What PSU should i buy?

Hey, i have an important question. I have seen a bunch of posts here on the forum about lack of juice out of PSU's with certain hardware configs....
I think i have the same problems here, flickering textures in games, when playing games they just quit and im back in windows.... and even sometimes it just hangs.... this is only when playing games or 3D rendering in 3D studio max.
Here are my system specs.
ESC K7S6A mainboard (bios version 1.0f )
AMD Athlon XP 2400+
512 MB DDR
WD 40GB/8mb cache (7200rpm)
WD 80GB/2mb cache (7200rpm)
LiteOn CDRW 48x
LiteOn CD/DVD 48x/24x
SB Audigy player 5.1
MSI G4Ti4600-VTD (also tested with MSI G4MX440)
3com Network card 10/100
Microsoft optical mouse
PSU 300w
Windows XP Professional Corp. (NL + SP1)
DirectX 9.0
nVidia 41.09 drivers for WinXP
I think that my PSU is not good (correct me if im wrong), what PSU should i buy with my specs? please give me a brand and typenumber...

Is there any way to check if the power supply is definetly causing problems - I just bought am G4MX440 and after installing it (was using 32meg TNT2), game graphics are all screwey
TO-AOT (blank screen)
Q3 (all i get in the menus is the firey surround 'quake 3')
GTA3 ('bout a hundred tiled menu windows)
After reading many of the posts I assumed it was my power supply, went back to where i bought it (both the pc and the card) to upgrade nah it's the card bring it back.
P4 1.5 on GA-8IDX
SONY DVD
PANASONIC 8*4*32 CD-R/W
512 MB SD
MSI G4MX440-T
some TV tuner card (dunno)
directX 8.1 also tried 9
300W psu
3.3 - 14A | 160W combined
5 - 30A |
12 - 15A
These guys are selling all their P4 packages with various G4 and other card with 300W power supplies without issue (or so they say)
so any way to check for sure, will the rails dip significantly? I be grateful for any suggestions caus if i take it back you know it will sit on a shelf for a a few days b4 they get around to it - and i'm itching to try it out....

MSI 6600 diamond PCI-E/ 3DMARK05 = 739/ PSU Problem?

This is my first post, so forgive me if it's not OK.
I have an MSI NX6600 VTD128E diamond. I am getting the Nvidia Sentinal warning approx. 75% of the time. I just installed an Enermax EG465P-VE FMA. I'm not sure if the specs will show up in my profile, so they are 3.3v - 35A, 5v - 35A, 12v - 33A. From all the reading I have done I thought this would solve my problem, but it did not. My original PSU was a 300W Hipro with dual 12v rails @ 18A each that came with my computer, and I got the warning everytime I turned it on, which is why I switched for the new one.
These cards get there power from the PCI-E slot on the motherboard with no option for an extra power connector. At this point I don't know if I need a new PSU with dual 12v rails, or if there is something else causing the problem. From reviews of other 6600 cards I think my 3DMARK05 numbers should be between 2600-3200? Any thoughts or suggestions would be very appreciated.
Intel P4- 2.93 GHz
Intel 915GAG MB
512 MB Ram
160 GB SATA Hard Drive
MSI 6600 Diamond PCI-E @ 400/800 Stock
Intel HD Audio
Enermax EG465P-VE
3.3V-35A, 5V-35A, 12V-33A
19 Inch CRT / 100 Inch Benq DLP 6100

Thanks for the reply blazing storm.
I have had 1 or 2 restarts trying beta drivers, 71.81 and MSI's 71.22 caused a strange xp screen saying please wait, but it never booted up. Far cry wouldn't load with one of them. This is the only game I'm playing right now and it actually runs pretty good with settings on High. My clock speeds were at 400/800 after the Sentinal warning so I'm not sure what it is doing, but my marks definatly suggest something is wrong. Everything runs ok with the 66.93, which I used before the beta's and I am using them now.I didn't get the warning when I started my Comp this time so I think I will try 3DMARK05 again just to see if there are any changes.
From what I understand about Memtest (very little) I need a floppy drive, but I don't have one. Am I correct or is there another way to use the program? Anybody else have some ideas? Please.
PS- could someone explain the differences between ATX12V, ATX V1.0, V1.3, V2.0, V2.3? etc. Do the new PCI-E boards need a specific version? Thanks.
Jason

Unsure PSU compability

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