Working around a dead headphone/speaker connector

The headphone/speaker connector on our PowerMac G4-500 (AGP) seems to have worn out. There's no sound when I insert the plug to the speakers that we've always used, nor when I insert the plug to some headphones. But when there's no plug in the connector, sound comes from the built-in speaker.
The connector has had many insertions and withdrawals this year, while I futzed with a replacement video card that had intermittent problems.
I could pay a shop to replace the connector, but don't want the down-time involved.
Is there either an add-in PCI card, or a USB device, that can be used to replace the built-in headphone connector? A seamless solution would have a 3-contact Sony-type headphone connector.

Sorry, the mic and headphones plugs were swapped.

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I have found a quick Error 3256 work around. Switch the speaker to computer (drop box in bottom right corner of iTunes display) then back to the remote speaker. This beats starting and restarting iTunes.
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Try:
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My Laptop Sound only Can Played by Headphone Speaker Doesn't Work

Why my Laptop Speaker doesn't work but when i use th Headphone it's work normally on my Headphone, Please Help Me
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Hi @MineralCraver ,
Thank you for visiting the HP Support Forums and Welcome. I have looked into your issue about your HP 1000-1609au Notebook PC and sound not working correctly with headphones. Here is a fix that has helped.
1. Right click speaker icon (right hand corner)
2. Select Playback devices
3. Right click Speakers
4. Enable it and set as Default
5. Click Apply/Ok
Here is a link to no sound from headphones.
Have you tried the headphones in a something else?
Hope this all helps to fix the sound from headphones.
Thanks.
Please click “Accept as Solution ” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos, Thumbs Up" on the bottom to say “Thanks” for helping!

Firewire...Dead Port Work-Arounds???

I'm lost....
Apparently my firewire port has died. I wish there were some substantive way to actually confirm its demise one way or another; all I know is that three (separate) external hard drives will not mount (and these drives all mount when using USB 2.0). In System Profiler, all it tells me is: "Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec".
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What about using a PCMCIA Firewire card in the provided slot? Can anyone think of a reason why that would not work?
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If anyone has any ideas on how I can work-around this problem or better still, solve it, please help.
TIA

Hi Geoffrey
I have just the same problem. I've posted the same question about a 400-800 cable and no-one's replied yet. If I ever get the time I'll just go and buy one but the problem isn't so acute for me as I'm just using USB, powering the ext. disk with the FW cable.
From what I've read so far, it's quite likely your motherboard is shot and it really isn't worth the expense to fix it. There are lots of PC slot FW cards available and that would be your cheapest fix. The only snag is that you can't boot from them (I think) so if you ever need to boot from an external disk that will be a problem.
From the number of posts I've read on this subject, it would appear the G4 powerbooks are prone to this breakdown, which is a pain - my old pismo G3 was a much better machine (it still broke though...). In 15 years of Mac computing I've never had a failure on a desktop but powerbooks... I guess they get thrown about too much.
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I have a hp1330n desktop computer
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Repairing speaker connector on iMac G4 20" USB 2.0

The speaker connector on my iMac no longer makes a good connection. It's as if someone tried to cram something in there that bent the leaf-spring.
Looking at [this web page|http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/imacg4/imacg4takeapart.html], it appears the connector is an enclosed module, so I must replace it rather than try fixing it.
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Hey Dave,
shorter (rather than elongated) and thinner than the mini-plug for my headphones.
Yup I'm thinking about the old Mac Mike.
It also has that extra ring and it's .098" vs .125".
I gather from your mentioning "a regular stereo 1/8" that the factory jack is non-standard
Yup AFAIK. There is this:
http://www.welovemacs.com/3254pwrw.html
but it's expensive.
so I can't connect other speakers without an adapter. (Haven't tried.) By making that swap, I suppose I'd lose the ability to connect the Pro speakers but gain the ability to connect others easily?
Here's a discussion about adapters.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=756283&tstart=-1
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The headphone jack works fine. Are you thinking that, with an adapter, I could connect the Pro speakers to it? I've supposed the output would be inadequate to drive speakers.
Yes I was thinking of that but like you say it would require amplification.
So the PowerWave is an option.
I've no problem taking the iMac apart. I'm thinking about upgrading the factory memory and HD anyway.
If you need a walk thru for that email me.
Richard

The App Store asks to "verify" my personal information, For my name, state, credit card, etc. I don't even live in the US and I don't have a CC, nor do I want to give away my personal information. I just want to download free apps. Any work-arounds?

Title says it all.
I'm really getting sick of websites getting more and more into your business. Google forcing you to get a G+ account and asking for your identifying information, for example (like your phone number).
It's extremely irritating, and I'm opting out of everything that enforces the such. If Apple begins pushing like this, I will just close my relationship with the company and obtain apps by using third-party software to force them onto the phone.
But before going that far, I'd like to find work arounds.
First of all, I don't even know why it asks me for my "state". I don't even live in the USA anymore, as I moved to China (though I won't use the Chinese store as I don't speak or understand the local language, which is Chinese).
All I want... is to continue using the English App Store to get free apps from here in my home in China, without getting stopped by Apple asking for more info on me. I don't want to share my name, I don't want to share my address, and I can't even complete the form as I no longer have a "state" and don't have any credit info.
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10.4.9 Printing Work-Around Fix - 10 Steps

VonB has already listed a fix in this thread.
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=4234084&#4234084
Unfortunately the links he provided there are for a paid site, and if you don't have a membership you're outta luck. I've taken his info, used it and written what I think are clear instructions to help you be able to print in 10.4.9 until Apple releases an update patch. Special thanks to Vonb for pointing me in the right direction.
Hope this helps...
Jim
10.4.9 Printing Work-Around Fix - 10 Steps
Problem - Many programs will not print in OSX 10.4.9.
What This Fix Does - Allows you to print in TEXT EDIT. You can then save MS Word files as Text Edit files and print them. Hopefully a fix will soon be released by Apple for OS 10.4.9 or MS for office 2004.
What This Fix Does Not Do - It won't allow you to print in MS Word if you currently can't, and it won't allow Appleworks to work if it currently doesn't.
Difficulty - easy to moderate. Can you paint by numbers or do you tend to draw outside the lines? If you follow the directions closely you'll be ok.
Disclaimer - I typed this fix out for myself and have applied it to my 5 personal macs and 4 at work. It hasn't crashed any of them, but I don't want you to get ****** off at me if it does... so if you screw your mac up by doing this don't say I didn't warn you. This fix isn't for newbies.
Time to complete - about 1/2 an hour.
Special Instructions -
A. You'll need to be logged in as the administrator of the computer you're working on. I've written this help missive in real plain language. If it seems like I'm speaking down to you I'm not, I'm just trying to make sure you don't screw it up and send me nasty emails.
B. Check to see if TEXT EDIT already prints for you, if it does then skip to #10. (TEXT EDIT can be found in your APPLICATIONS FOLDER on your Macintosh HD.)
OK... here we go, THE TEN STEPS! (cue dramatic music)
1. Delete all of your printers in the PRINT & FAX set up in SYETEM PREFERENCES by following this path - BLUE APPLE / SYSTEM PREFERENCES / PRINT & FAX. If the plus and minus button on the bottom left of the dialog window that appears is grey'd out, you need to CLICK ON THE LOCK and UNLOCK it. You'll need the administrator password to do this. Once the lock is unlocked, click on each printer listed there and then click the minus button. Repeat the process until all printers in the print & fax dialog are deleted.
2. Download two programs from the net. (REMEMBER where you download these files on your computer.)
A. Download a program called CUPS from this site. http://www.cups.org/software.php?VERSION=1.3svn-r6326&FILE=cups/1.2.8/cups-1.2.8 .dmg
CUPS is a unix program that Apple uses within Mac OSX to print. Download version 1.2.8 only. When you get to the site, you will have FTP and HTTP buttons to select where to download from. If you're already in a browser, click on one of the HTTP sites. That way you don't have to open an ftp program.
B. Download and install a program called PRINTER SETUP REPAIR (VERSION 5.0.5) from this site. http://www.fixamacsoftware.com/software/index.html
PRINTER SETUP REPAIR is a shareware program we'll use to fix some issues... if this works I suggest you go back to this site and be a good net citizen and purchase the software. If it doesn't then don't buy it.
3. Install CUPS by clicking on the CUPS.DMG file twice. This will open the DMG file on the desktop as a hard disk image. Open the CUPS HD image and click on the CUPS.pkg twice to install the program. Follow the instructions to the end. After installation click close button.
4. Open psr505te.dmg by clicking on it twice. (it might be called psr505TE.dmg.zip. if it is, click on the psr505TE.dmg.zip file twice to open it, then click on the psr505TE.dmg file twice to open it.) Once the psr505TE.dmg is open, open the PRINTER SETUP REPAIR HD on your desktop. Inside is a program by the same name. Open it by clicking on it twice.
5. Click the "TRY IT" button, type in your admin password, and click the CONTINUE button
6. On the left side of the Printer Setup Repair dialogue window, click CUPS TOOLS icon. in the middle of the dialogue box, if the screen reads " cupsd is running" click the STOP button located just to the left.
7. On the lower right hand side of the Printer Setup Repair dialogue window, under the words "replace current cupsd.conf file with", SELECT "new cupsd.conf file". Then click GO. Then click CONTINUE in the next dialog box that appears.
8. On the left side of the Printer Setup Repair dialogue window, click on the FILE PERMISSIONS ICON. Make sure that all of the boxes in the middle of the Printer Setup Repair dialogue window are checked except for OMIT LOCALIZED FILES and both of the FOR ALL USERS boxes. At the top of the screen in the middle click on the PRINTER ICON THAT HAS A QUESTION MARK on it. In the window that pops up click CONTINUE. This will run VERIFY AND REPAIR PERMISSIONS from inside the Printer's Setup Repair Program. (I know, there is a repair permissions in the Disk Utility Program already on the mac, it doesn't do something that this program does. I don't know what it does, but this works and Disk Utility doesn't.)
9. Run it AGAIN! (the second time does the trick for some reason. just once didn't do it on three out of 5 macs that I used this work around on). This should allow you to print in TEXT EDIT.
10. If you are using Microsoft Word and you want to print something, you need to SAVE AS a text only file (File menu / Save As / Format - Text Only) and print by opening the document in TEXT EDIT and printing from that application. So far this fix has worked on 1 intel iMac, 1 lamp stand iMac, an eMac, a Macbook and an iBook. (Funny enough, my G4 sawtooth Mac running 10.4.9 works fine and prints from MS word without a hitch.)
If this fix works for you, i encourage you to go back to printer's setup repair's website (http://www.fixamacsoftware.com/software/index.html) and purchase their software.

Use the install disk that shipped with your Mac to "Repair Disk"
Steps for using Disk Utility
1. Insert the Mac OS X Install disc that came with your computer, then restart the computer while holding the C key.
2. When your computer finishes starting up from the disc, choose Disk Utility from the Installer menu. (In Mac OS X 10.4 or later, you must select your language first.) Important: Do not click Continue in the first screen of the Installer. If you do, you must restart from the disc again to access Disk Utility.
3. Click the First Aid tab.
4. Click the disclosure triangle to the left of the hard drive icon to display the names of your hard disk volumes and partitions.
5. Select your Mac OS X volume.
6. Click Repair.
If you repair errors run it until no errors found.
Let us know.
-mj
[email protected]

In Lion return key no longer opens a file! Is there a work around?

In Lion return key no longer opens a file! Is there a work around?
In Snow Leoppard I used the return key all the time in finder and Path finder when quickly navigating files. There was the choice of the 2 return keys, one opens the file and the other goes into edit the filename. Now in Lion both keys do the same thing and I miss it badly. It means you have to go to the mouse which (reletively speaking) takes ages.
Is there a work arround or fix?

This is a standard setting to change to this to allow users to access the emotions option, this has been like this for some while because the text messages app only allows a number of letters and to add a line break will cause issue with the letter count... At this time there isnt any way to modify it other than use a 3rd party keyboard but a number of them does this as well.
Another option that may work is open a email and type the message the way you want it to layout and then copy all text and paste in the text message window, it may keep the original format of the text but I havent tried it myself.
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[N73] Bluetooth and Pioneer CD-BTB200: work around

Hi all,
Just to let you know the work around for using the N73 with FW v4.XXX and the Pioneer BTB200 (among others, delivered with the AVIC-D3 system). Since automatic BT connectivity does not work, I tried something different.
- set BT on your N73 to "on" and visible
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Cheerio,
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======================
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V4.xxx

I have the same problems with my N95 (not 8gb) and Pioneer AVIC-X3 (CD-BTB200). I don´t know wath we can do!!!!

Printing Problem Solved (Temporary Work-around)

I've posted before, and others have posted here and elsewhere, about problems printing with Aperture since upgrading to Leopard. In my case, it's been with an Epson R1800.
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Now, when you select "System Managed" in the Aperture dialog, and "Color Controls - Epson Standard" in the Epson dialog, it will apply your own profile.
Hopefully, Apple will fix the problem with color management, and we'll be able to go back to color management as it was before. In the meantime, this is the only work-around I've found.

I was/am totally a Mac guy, meaning my roots were System 7 based, and my knowledge of all things UNIX is being built slowly as needed in the OS X world. While I can make Photoshop & Aperture (and the GUI portions of OS X) stand on their heads and do backflips for treats I can't, with much conviction, speak on the roots of UNIX drivers. I think, and someone please correct me if I'm wrong, that Gutenprint drivers are CUPS 'compatible' drivers, but not necessarily "CUPS" drivers in that they work with other printing platforms as well. Here are some sources of info:
http://gimp-print.sourceforge.net/
http://www.cups.org/
The Gutenprint drivers may be the CUPS drivers for the Epson printer, I don't know for sure. On the Canon site, there are two drivers available for download for the Pro9000. One labeled standard, the other labeled CUPS. By default, when adding the printer, my system uses the CUPS driver. I can actually have the Pro9000 added twice, once with the CUPS driver, once with the standard driver. I spoke with an Canon engineer the other day, and contrary to the advice you get from the standard phone support reps, he told me to definitely use the CUPS driver when printing RAW or 16-bit images from Photoshop or Aperture, as it's the only way to do 16-bit printing.
Message was edited by: KBeat

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Hi all...ive tried doing a search on this subject but couldnt find any solutions...I have noticed that the sound output for my laptop is way too soft for my liking...I went into the sound properties and have disabled all enhancements as I have noticed with the enhanements on the volume constantly fluctuates (too too sure why but it does)...When my lap top isnt plugged into external speakers I can barely even play games on it because I really cant hear anything..maybe im going deaf but even my POS 4 year ol Hp puts out louder sounds than our Qosmios...For sure the Harmon Kardons can take more than whats being thrown at it so if any one has any suggestions on how to achieve this please do let me know...Someone suggest SX Fidelity Amplifier but for the full version it costs money...Im looking for a preferably free way to work around this issue...Thanks!

If your laptop uses the Realtek HD Audio drivers than chances are the driver is not configured property. These directions are for Windows 7, other operating systems may require a slightly different set of steps.
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Working around a dead headphone/speaker connector

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