What week is my MBP?

Hello,
Have been browsing through the forum and see everyone refering to their MBP's in weeks. i.e. "min's is a week 14".
What does this mean? (I assume it refers to the week of manufactire after the MBP was first released?).
How can I tell what week my MBP is? I have a refurb 15" 1.82Ghz dual core.
Thanks

Go to Apple System Profiler (Apple menu -> About -> More Info).
The first five digits of your serial number should be something like W86xx; the XX is your week number.
For example, the serial number W8615... would be a week 15, as in it is the fifteenth week since introduction of that particular model.

Similar Messages

How do you know what week it is???

OK, so my first 5 digits/letters on my serial number are : 1B738!
Is that a week 38... and how do you know if its a good screen one??
Please send me some ways to test it!!
Thanks once again!

To know what week you have look at the 4th and 5th numbers in rhe serial number. Also remember to search these forums before posting a question. This question has been asked well over a dozen times. To do a search simply type in the words at the box to the upper right of this page.
GFF

How do you know what week your macbook was made?

I am very concerned about the discoloration on my new macbook and I have heard that if it was made before a certain week that apple will not fix the problem, so I would like to know what week my macbook was made.

Quick question, how do you know if you have the "new batch" (the units that solve the discoloration and heat problems)?
They had to customize mine because they didn't have any already "configured-to-order" in stock. I should get it in 5-6 business days. Does that mean mine is coming off the new batch?

How do you tell what week your computer was manufactured?

How can I tell what week my computer was manufactured? My serial number is [..snipped...]. Week 19 translates to what month?
Thank you

Someone, somewhere could theoretically, trace your serial number to your name, address and maybe even how you paid for your computer. I recently had my identity cloned in Mexico. I wouldn’t think of posting any unnecessary information on any website. But that’s just me.

How can i find out in apple order what week my ipod is ?

How can i find out in apple order what week my ipod is ? its says it was shipped today.
Message was edited by: Matt kidd

dont matter now its a week 38 it sed on the invoice
Message was edited by: Matt kidd

What week iPhone should I ask for???

I plan on trying to return my 3GS tomorrow becuase of the battery and a couple other things. What week seems to be the problem free? Do we know yet? Thanks!

I'm not sure this even matters. Most of the sales reps there have no idea about week builds and currently the 3GS's are selling quite quickly so there aren't an abundance of stock for them to choose from. They are basically selling each batch they get.
Here in cupertino we moved a week's worth of each day for 4 days. Release ones were 21, then the next day was 22, then 23 and 24. Sales started slowing down at week 25 and most likely if you go now you will get week 26. Someone posted earlier about getting a week 27 so I'm guessing those are going into the wild now.
Nothing is for sure but here is my experience after comparing about 25 phones between friends/family and 10 more from apple stores.
21: high chance of poor battery
22: small chance of over heat issue
23: best screens (most apple stores all have 23's... i'm sure that's no coincidence)
24: no experience
25: small chance of good screens
26: high chance of yellow screen (personally saw 9 that were all yellow... comparing to the week 23's of the stores. Yellow gradient rate was high as well meaning top and bottom were different shades.
No experience with 27 yet. My girlfriend's week 26 white has 2 cracks on the top near the headset jack... we are waiting for 27's to exchange.
My advice to you is to go get one anyways. If there's an issue, just return it. Even from all those experiences, those could just be flukes or bad draws... or you may just get a good draw on which ever batch. Good luck though

How can i find out what week my macbook is?

i've noticed that everyone seems to mention what week their macbook is, how do you find out this info?
p.s.
i've been having the random shutdown problems as well, i just got mine back from an apple "repair" center and it's still shutting off randomly. i really hope this problem is solved soon i desperately need this computer for school (starting on monday! aaaahhhh!!)
Macbook Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Look at your serial number. It's the two numbers after the 6.
4H620 <-- Week 20
-<i>Bmer
Mac Owners Support Group
Join Us @ MacOSG.com
ITMS: MacOSG Podcast
 An Apple User Group 

What wrong with my MBP Processor?

i have ordered MBP
13-inch: 2.6GHz
with Retina display
Specifications
2.6GHz dual-core Intel Core i5
Turbo Boost up to 3.1GHz
8GB 1600MHz memory
256GB PCIe-based flash storage1
Intel Iris Graphics
Built-in battery (9 hours)2
When i click on About This Mac it show only 2.4GHz Processor, What happen with my MBP?

Return it if you didn't get what you ordered.
Ensure that your receipt that was generated with your order had a 2.6GHz processor on it.
There currently isn't a 2.4 GHz model offered on the Apple Store.

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?

Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE,   ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace

1-day Week-19 17" MBP Review!

Hello, all...
Well, I had been avidly reading the forums for the past week, waiting in eager and dreaded anticipation of my new MBP17 to arrive, coming straight from Shanghai (per the tracking number). Will it moo? Or whine? Or be scorching hot? Will I have to fix key alignment? Or hold the thing closed because the latch isn't working? Or maybe stare in disbelief at screen sratches, dead pixels, or dark blotches in the corners of my screens?
My specs: 17" MBP, 2.16Ghz, 1GB RAM, 100GB/7200rpm HDD (my first Mac).
My baby arrived yesterday in a beautiful little black box. With the utmost care and ease, I unpacked it ever so softly, easily placing all the packaging together neatly (in case I needed to return/ebay it in the future!). I must say first and foremost, Apple has the form factor DOWN. Gorgeous machine, sleek lines, streamlined design, and a pleasure to look at. Mine came with no physical defects at all.
I wanted to put mine through as much stress as possible so I could make my yay/nay decision within the 14-day return period. So I booted up, updated the software, tried updating the firmware (it was already up to date), pushed my remote menu button no less than 30 times, then went straight into Boot Camp and XP installation. I don't really intend on using XP much (although I may have to use CS2 and Studio in XP until the UB versions are released), but as I mentioned, I wanted to put this thing through the wringer right away.
Boot Camp installed fine, XP followed, and I was up and running relatively quickly. A few minor driver issues arose in XP, but they were quickly remedied. XP worked beautifully (or as beautifully as XP works) on the MacBook Pro.
During this whole process, I hadn't heard any whine... but I also knew that the whine dominated in OSX, not XP. So I spent a fair amount of time in OSX, playing with the built-in programs and such. Absolutely no whine or strange sounds. Period.
I knew that the heat test loomed around the corner. "How can I really test this thing out?" I asked myself. Enter my little brother, a gaming expert. I hesistantly handed the MBP over to his anticipating and impatient hands, praying that he break it in gently. He immediately went to work, installing Half-Life2, Steam, and Counter-Strike Source. After the never-ending installation process, he finally started up. With all detail settings on high, the game was stunning. Sharp, beautiful graphics and smooth gameplay. I assigned him the "task" of playing CSS for the next hour, which he did without hesitation.
An hour later, I came back to take my laptop's temperature (with my hand). I expected high temps with the load he was placing on the machine. The MBP was very warm, hot in certain places, very warm on the bottom. Possibly a "thermal paste" problem, but I can't say for sure. The fact that the case is aluminum comforts me tremendously (I have worked with metal extensively in the past and aluminum transfers heat very efficiently, especially when compared to other metals and definitely other materials such as plastic). The case acts as a huge heatsink. So when I imagine that all the heat I'm feeling is heat that could have been smothering my machine's internals, I don't dislike it nearly as much.
Could it be cooler? Yes, but it was only slightly warmer than my office G4 Powerbook 1.33GHz/512MB, especially on the bottom. Is it so bothersome that I will consider returning it? Absolutely not. I paid $3000 for a good machine and I feel I got one. I also understand the laws of thermodynamics and the properties of aluminum, so I'm less inclined to whine about that. If you ask me, I personally prefer a hot aluminum laptop over a cool plastic one. The former is constantly ridding itself of the heat, while the latter is essentially a convection oven.
The screen: beautiful. A noticeable bit brighter than the PB, but I don't know if I'd say "36% brighter." I specifically looked for dark blotches in the corners and didn't see anything. I noticed an extremely slight difference in brightness in the corners, but I'd expect that from a 1/4" laptop screen. When using the computer, it's definitely not noticeable at all.
Overall impression: I love it. I'm extremely difficult to please (I'm one of those guys that goes for the middle of the row of items when buying stuff off the shelf) and a perfectionist on top of that. But Apple [finally] got it right with this thing. The fact that it's a Week-19 machine may have something to do with it.
I hope this helps anyone on the fence. I read every thread I could find about the new MBPs so I could make an informed decision. Keep in mind that forums such as these usually attract the users with problems, not those who are happily using their machines and are satisfied with their purchase.
If I missed anything, let me know. By the way: what program can I use to take specific temperature measurements? I'd like to do that and post the results.
Good luck to everyone.
Regards,
Zayd
17" MacBook Pro, 2.16GHz, 1GB RAM, 100GB/7200rpm HDD Mac OS X (10.4.6)

My pleasure... I thought it would help to hear some good news for a change.
My MBP is still great. I got around to checking the CPU temp after an hour of intense gameplay: 64 degrees Celcius. I haven't seen it get warmer than this. With average use, I'm usually around 55 degrees. When first powered on, I'm at 30 degrees.
It is important to note, however, that the case does get warm -- warm enough to think that it's bad for my CPU. But, as I mentioned, I switched back to OSX and immediately checked the temp, which was always around 60-65 degrees.
Whine update: I've detected a minute whine from the processor -- likely the same whine everyone has been talking about. I can only really hear it when my ear is to the left speaker, so at normal usage distances, it's hardly audible. Definitely not bothersome at all.
Feel free to ask any questions!
Zayd

Whats better: basic config. mbp + 23" display, or 17" mbp

I am planning on getting a MacBook Pro soon, although I don't know whats better: to get a 15 inch with a 23 inch display or a 17 inch macbook pro without the display.

Depends on your needs. If you need a big screen on the road and you travel frequently you need the 17". I travel a lot, but the screen real estate is mostly of value at home, where I keep both the MBP and 23" ACD open. Most of my travel is overnight--I am rarely gone for more than 2 days. If I needed to be gone for weeks at a time, the extra real estate would really come in handy.
I mostly use Office-style apps. If you do other things, like video, and you are on the road for weeks at a time, I suspect the 17" hi-res is the way to go. Otherwise, the 23" ACD is awesome at home!

Needing feedback for doubts about my almost-a-week-old 2012 MBP

I have a 2012 model, the base-15-inch one from 2012. It's been almost a week since I bought it from the store (an iShop, which is a chain of "premium" Apple resellers in Mexico). Although it's nearly new and expectations leave no room for unpleasant details, obviously, I've started noticing these details, which actually make me somewhat anxious:
The most relevant one: I can hear noises when opening the lid. They resemble those plastic cracking, as if something about the hinges was incorrectly adjusted, and it's annoying. It also worries me that, further on, I could start having real problems with the screen angles, positioning and whatnot, due to a wear-down of these parts. The screen also closes a bit harder than what I could consider as normal. I took it to the store from where I bought the laptop and I got told that the noises were "normal" (as if everyone else should expect to hear the same), and that the feeling of the lid closing abruptly was because it's "new", so it needs to be used more in order for the screen to move more smoothly. I ended up feeling very frustrated because I think they just wanted to convince me of sticking with this one, when, actually, I visited the store because of the 5-day-warranty they announce about changing the whole thing for a new one. It was the last day. I need helpful opinions about this: What should I do? Should I worry? Is it normal as they say?, because it doesn't seem that much to me.
The color or birghtness on the very borders of the LED screen appear to be lighter.
The LEDs that show when the computer is in stand-by appear to be a bit dimmed on the left side, very subtly, but still.
Software:
It just happened twice that, when just opening iTunes, the window appeared behind the top bar. The first time I couldn't move the window.
When I change from one full-screen to the main one, the "top bar" (what's the proper name?) makes a glitchy move to the right, really quick.
I need some opinions regarding what I should worry about in each case, and what I should do, too. I still have the 1-year Apple warranty, though, naturally speaking.

I have 2 MBP's tah make a slighthoise when opening and closing them, been like that for years. The other issues are not right. I would bring it in ans equest a new one. Hurry:)

What's wrong, my MBP works fine!

After 30 years or so on a PC I moved to a Mac. I'm running Lion on a 2011 MBP. I upgraded to Lion with no trouble. My battery lasts long enough; 6-7 hours depending on what I do. I just upgraded to 10.7.3 and was back at work in about 25 minutes.
What am I doing wrong? It all works flawlessly they way it's supposed to

Glad to hear it! Or should I be sorry?

How can you tell what week you have and if it's refurbished?

Hello. I just did a phone swap and it was a white box. I'm wondering if there's any way to tell if it's a refurb? The genius said it's new, but I'm just curious.
Also, I've heard that the first 5 digits are the week? Like mine is
82832 - that means factory 82 the year 2008 and week 32? Is this correct?
Message was edited by: Jong81

Okay ... so it's not a refurb? - I didn't think so, but the guy did it differently than the last 2 times. The last two times, they gave me a brand new sealed box. So far, I have no complaints - battery seems to be going quick, but I've been playing games. And there is a MINOR speck of dust on the left side, but not worth fussing about.
I'm annoyed that I still have the box from my other one, but what are you gonna do? This is the best one I've had so far, so I'll sacrifice the sealed box going with it.

What else causes my MBP to log out on its own?

Using 10.9.2 on a MacBook Pro, the MBP's begun logging itself out when unattended. I return after a while to find the login screen. Any processes I'd left running or scheduled (e.g., Audio Hijack Pro to record from Firefox) either never started or were dumped.
Energy Saver (for Power adapter) is set to "Never" for Computer Sleep, and "Put hard disks to sleep when possible" is unchecked.
It happens regardless of whether the screen saver engages.
Security and Privacy, General, does have checked "Require Password 4 hours after sleep or screen saver begins," but this has happened in as little as under 20-30 minutes.
As shown on the Prefs imge, only three other panels should have *anything possibly* to do with logout—Users & Groups, Internet Accounts, and Network. I can't find anything else there that may cause this.
Suggestions? Thank you.

William, I started the MBP and left at about 8:25. After that, note the Console reports at 9:12 and 10:14.
Previously trying to resolve a similar issue, I do recall seeing "Could not find image named 'NSApplication'."
(I don't know what these mean, nor what to do about it. I think I got back on the MBP at about 10:00.)
Thanks.
3/4/14 8:28:10.520 AM com.bourgeoisbits.cloak.agent[7651]: NetworkProfile: en0, 192.168.1.1, (null) (Connected: YES, Airport: NO, Open: NO) [trusted]
3/4/14 9:12:43.749 AM loginwindow[7497]: Could not find image named 'NSApplication'.
3/4/14 10:10:56.741 AM Console[54522]: setPresentationOptions called with NSApplicationPresentationFullScreen when there is no visible fullscreen window; this call will be ignored.
3/4/14 10:14:10.165 AM loginwindow[7497]: *** WARNING: -[NSImage compositeToPoint:operation:] is deprecated in MacOSX 10.8 and later. Please use -[NSImage drawAtPoint:fromRect:operation:fraction:] instead.
3/4/14 10:14:10.165 AM loginwindow[7497]: *** WARNING: -[NSImage compositeToPoint:fromRect:operation:] is deprecated in MacOSX 10.8 and later. Please use -[NSImage drawAtPoint:fromRect:operation:fraction:] instead.

What week is my MBP?

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