1.83 Ghz Refurb

Although I have been a Mac convert for over a year, I just recently discovered these discussions.
My question is this: after 3 years of extremely reliable use, I am ready to retire my Sony VAIO notebook. (As a sidenote, it also ran hot enough to sear your skin and the fan ran constantly and loudly!) I would like to purchase a MBP, but the $1999 price combined with RAM, Apple Care, new sleeve, marware, etc. is simply too steep for my budget at this time. I noticed that Apple has a 1.83 Ghz refurb for $1549. I am concerned with problems mentioned with early MBP models and am trying to see what others think about this purchase. Any comments would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Obi-
I have a 1.83 and have thus far been immune to many of the problems that have been affecting other users (whine, heat, etc). I have had some whine (although barely noticeable), I had heat issues in the beginning but now they seem to be either cooling off or i'm just getting more used to them (or my own personal theory: thermal paste has a "break-in" period after which it functions as it should, which has reduced the heat being transferred to the case).
The problems with forums like these is that the majority of people on here are the ones with issues - thereby skewing perceptions. If you had a MacBook with no issues, would you spend time on the forums reading about problems?
Anyway- take the plunge - it will be well worth it. And as a quick recommendation - you should by the refurb with whatever the smallest amount of RAM is and then order more from NewEgg (my personal favorite etailer)- they stock Crucial RAM which is the most expensive but also the most reliable, and any RAM that you purchase from someone other than Apple will be half the price....
Apparently, OS X loves RAM - the more the merrier!
Anyway, I hope you purchase and enjoy!
MacBook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1.83 GHz, 1.5GB RAM

Similar Messages

Weird worm shaped whiter line on screen

I recently received a 1.5 ghz refurbed model, which so far i love. however, i just noticed yesterday a strange whiteish line in the middle of the screen. it is super faint, but appears as a very slightly lighter shade of any lightish color that is in that area of the screen. it is most noticible on a white backround. it is not an spot like area but rather a wiggly worm or snake shaped line that appears to be several pixels wide and about 1/3 inch long, vertically on the screen, it is not on the surface of the screen, but appears to be behind the plastic screen itself.
any tips on what might be causing this? the screen is perfect besides this so if there might be someway to fix it without sending the machine back, that would be great. it is not very noticible, but it is in the middle of the screen so i am staring at all the time.

I also have the same problem. I've had my PB for over a year now, and I just noticed this a few weeks ago. At first I thought it was light leaking through the plastic Apple logo, but it's something wrong with the screen. Really only noticeable when completely white.
Joel
Powerbook G4 15 Mac OS X (10.4.3)

I recently purchased a refurbed iMac with a 3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo. It came with iMovie ver. 9.0.5 installed. I do allot with iMovie and iDVD and would like to get a camcorder to add movie clips. Does anyone have any suggestions for a reasonably pri

I recently purchased a refurbed iMac with a 3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo. It came with iMovie ver. 9.0.5 installed. I do allot with iMovie and iDVD and would like to get a camcorder to add movie clips. Does anyone have any suggestions for a reasonably price camcorder that would work with my setup?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I recently purchased a refurbed iMac with a 3.06 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo. It came with iMovie ver. 9.0.5 installed. I do allot with iMovie and iDVD and would like to get a camcorder to add movie clips. Does anyone have any suggestions for a reasonably price camcorder that would work with my setup?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia 7300

Late 2006, 24" iMac, 2.16 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo, Screen Tearing, nVidia GeForce 7300 GT
I've been suffering with screen tearing, strange screen artifacts, etc. followed by totally unresponsive freezing machine. This problem has been happening to varying degrees for about 9 months.
Initially, I was able to mitigate the problem with smcFanControl. Adjusting the fan speeds up helped keep the machine cool and prevent most of the problems. Recently, we had a spell of hot weather and the fans just couldn't keep up. If you're using smcFanControl, the only fan speed that will really make a difference is the CPU. The HDD and ODD fans are no where near where you need to be.
Also, I noticed the machine was LOADED with dust when I took it apart, including the heat sink fins for the graphics card. If you have time you may want to try a thorough cleaning with compressed air before replacing the card. You just need to get through step 11 below to access what needs to be cleaned.
Based on reading here and elsewhere, I decided to replace the graphics card. To give back to the community, I wanted to layout the procedure here.
Where to buy the card.
I had a tough time finding the right card. I did exhaustive web searches using every combination of Nvidia 7300 GT, etc. You really need to search by the Apple part number. The Apple part number for the 7300 is 661-4179, for the 7600 is 661-4180. I found it at We Love Macs and at dv warehouse. I paid $248 for the 7600 card. BE CAREFUL buying a "refurbished" card. At We Love Macs, "refurbished" means "pulled from a working machine." Could be a machine with as much mileage as yours and prone to the same failures as yours.
The card is an MXM style card (generally used in laptops), with a giant heat sink and heat pipe assembly. The card can be separated from the heat assembly. If I had time, I would have tried a generic, cheaper, MXM style card.
Dispelling some myths.
People here and elsewhere have said that no Intel iMac graphics card can be replaced, that they're wedded to the logic board. The one on this model can be replaced, I've done it. Also, some have said you can't put a 256MB, 7600 GT in a machine that originally had a 128MB, 7300 GT. Also, not true. That's what I did to my machine and it is working fine.
So here's the step-by-step on my take apart and replacement. This is just one user helping out others, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. This takes about 1 1/2 hours to take apart and 2 to put back together.
1) Install the iStat widget and monitor the temperatures for a few days and record the temperatures (to be able to verify that you've completed the repair correctly later)
2) Make a complete backup of any internal drives and make sure the backup will be bootable (use Carbon Copy Cloner)
3) Use static safeguards, like an anti-static wrist strap.
4) Get a pen a stack of paper envelopes to separate and label the pieces you remove.
5) You'll need a #2 Phillips and #6, 8, 10 Torx. Most of the screws at T-8. There are 8 T-8s holding in the LCD. They are about 1 1/4" down. You'll need a long, skinny T-8 to get to them.
6) Unplug the machine and place it on it's back on a large white sheet of paper.
7) Remove RAM door, #2 Phillips x 2.
8) Remove RAM.
9) Remove 4 T-8s along bottom.
10) Remove large rectangular plastic bezel surrounding the whole machine, tilt up being careful not to stress iSight cables. You'll need to stretch it around the RAM ejection tabs.
11) Detach two iSight cables.
12) Peel up black stickers at lower corners of speakers.
13) Remove LCD screws, T-8 x 8. You'll probably drop a few, they're pretty easy to retrieve.
14) Remove two retaining screws on right hand LCD cable. T-6 x2 Unplug cable.
15) Remove LCD inverter cable, left.
Start unplugging everything connected to the logic board.
16) Unplug cable coming from right speaker. Note cable routing, it is the only one that's a little tricky. Also, note that the left one plugs in on the right and the right one plugs in on the left.
17) Remove right speaker. T-10 Note: left and right speaker screws are different lengths.
18) Unplug ODD blower cable.
19) Unplug ODD temp cable and lift up tape.
20) Unplug HDD blower cable.
21) Unplug the HDD temp cable.
22) Unplug the camera & mic cable.
23) Unscrew the clamp securing the airport card (has two antenna cables going to it, labeled PCIE), T-6 x 2
24) Unplug SATA cable.
25) Unplug Power cable, thick black plastic harness, socket.
26) Unplug ambient temp cable.
27) Unscrew the bluetooth card, T-6 x2.
28) Unplug CPU blower cable.
29) Unplug power button cable, 2 conductor, tiny cable, bottom left.
30) Unscrew left speaker, T-10, unplug from logic board, but just leave dangling, no need to remove cable completely.
31) Remove logic board screws. Be careful to segregate them, they have different lengths and different thread pitches and thread types. Some are machine threads going into metal, some are coarse threads going into plastic.
31a) Heat sink frame to case T-8 x 2
31b) Logic board to case T-8 x 3
31c) Screws at heat sink from arrows T-8 x 3
31d) Logic board at bottom near RAM slot T-8 x 2
32) Unplug ODD ribbon cable, be extremely careful. Release plastic tabs on each side to remove. Be sure it is fully and evenly seated when you put it back later.
33) Remove logic board with attached graphics card.
34) Unplug graphics card heat sink sensor cable at logic board end.
35) Remove graphics card screws 2 x T-6
36) Remove single screw from small L-bracket on heat sink 1 x T-6
Replace graphics card.
Reverse steps, put everything back together. Be careful not to pinch any cables when you put the logic board back in. When you put the LCD back in, if you can't get the screws to stick to the driver, use some glue stick from your kid's art supplies.
Test everything. You've disconnected every cable in the system.
I torture tested the machine with a space heater on it, 5 different videos of different formats playing at the same time. No problems.
I took a lot of pictures inside the machine. As soon as I figure out a good place to post them, I'll try to add a link here.
Good luck

Greetings!
I know this is in response to your post from over 2 years ago, but I was searching on Apple's site for the max RAM I can upgrade our refurbed iMac too and it brought up this post.
Oddly enough, I've been experiencing the same screen issues and locking up on our iMac as well. I was concerned it was a bad memory module, but now I'm thinking it's the same issue you found.
Because I bought this some 2+ years ago refurbed from Apple, I'm not surprised that could be the actual problem.
I've pulled this thing apart once to replace the hard-drive which crashed about a year ago, so I'm not totally new at opening it up, but this process you mention sounds pretty intense...just wanted to get your second take on it based on what I've done thus far.
Thanks again for posting this...it was an eye-opener as to what might actually be causing our issues with our trusted Mac!
Joshua

Which is the better low-cost 24" Alum refurb'd iMac and why?

OK, I admit I don't pay enough attention. I have a couple year old 24" White iMac with 2.4GHz processor and 500Gb drive, and I'm thinking of "upgrading" to an Alum iMac for no particular reason. So I've been looking at the refurbs in the Apple store. Right now I've got a choice between
1) 2.66GHz, 4G, 640G HD, Nvidia GEForce 9400 w/256 for $1299, and
2) 2.93GHz, 4G, 640G HD, NVIDIA GeForce GT 120 with 256MB memory for 1549, and
3) 3.06GHz, 2G, 500G HD, NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GS with 512MB memory for 1599,
all more or less in budget. Are there significant differences and are they mostly to do with the vid card?
Any opinions? Buy the most expensive one you can afford? There used to be an older 2.8GHz model that many said was better than the 2.66GHz model here, so are there sig differences? Sould I just keep the white one for the present and wait?
Mired in Doubt

Pier Rodelon wrote:
One poster remarked that the 2.8 GHz model unlikely to be noticeably faster than my present 2.4GHz with 3G ram. If that also holds true for the 2.93 and 3.06 I might just sit still and wait a bit, since my machine has operated flawlessly since I bought it on eBay 2 years ago.
As a side-question, what is the projected schedule of new iMac releases, and where can I find a history of all releases?
Again, many thanks for the help.
All the choices you refer to, including the 2.8 GHz that I mentioned, won't have significant speed differences. You already have an Intel Core 2 Duo processor, and the difference between 2.4, 2.6, 2.8, 2.9, and 3.06 is only an issue of seconds, not minutes. If you were moving up from PowerPC to Intel, then yes, a new Mac would provide a huge increase in speed.
If you want to know the history of all Macs, download the free Mactracker program.
http://mactracker.dreamhosters.com/
It provides details of every Mac model made, including the introduction and discontinue dates. Macs lasted a lot longer in the old days: Mac IIci introduced September 1989 and discontinued February 1993. The shortest lived Mac would be the original Power Mac G4 from August 1999 to October 1999. The iMacs have typically run the course of a year before a new model is released. Complete design changes have been around a two to four year period, or sometimes longer.

Considering buying refurbished. Is there a big difference between a refurb with an original date this year vs. one from over a year ago??

Considering buying refurbished. Is there a big difference between a refurb with an original date this year vs. one from over a year ago??

MacBook Air, 13", Mid 2013:
On June 10, 2013, Apple released an updated MacBook Air in the same form factor as the 2012 model during the company's Worldwide Developer Conference (WWDC). The 11-inch and 13-inch models have a minimum standard 4GB RAM, with a maximum configuration of 8GB. Both models are powered by the Haswell ULT 1.3GHz dual-core Intel Core i5 processors with Turbo Boost up to 2.6GHz and 1.7GHz Dual-Core i7 with Turbo Boost up to 3.3GHz option available. Each model has a 128GB configuration and a 256GB configuration available, with the 256GB model being upgradeable to 512GB SSD.
1.3 GHz (Core i5) or 1.7 GHz (Core i7)
MacBook Air, 13", Early 2014:
On April 29, 2014 Apple released an updated MacBook Air featuring faster processors and better battery life. The standard configurations also saw a price drop in most regions.
1.4 GHz (Core i5) or 1.7 GHz (Core i7)
MacBook Pro, 13", Retina, Late 2013:
At the Apple Special Event on October 22, 2013, Apple announced that it had updated the 13-inch and 15-inch MacBook Pro with Retina display. Both versions feature the new Intel Haswell chipset.
2.4 or 2.6 GHz (Core i5) or 2.8 GHz (Core i7)
MacBook Pro, 13", Retina, Mid 2014:
On July 29, 2014 Apple announced updated prices and processors for their Haswell Macbook Pro with Retina Display.
2.6 or 2.8 GHz (Core i5) or 3.0 GHz (Core i7)
I would go for the Pro Retina since the display is much better.

Airport card probs on new/refurb (help!)

Just received refurb'd (April 2011) Macbook Pro 15" 2 GHz i7.
Airport icon showed but wouldn't turn on. Removed Airport from SysPref/Network. Restarted and added Airport and it turned on and was able to connect.
Worked for about an hour, then it went off again. Tried the same fix, but now it doesn't show at all in SysPref/Network > add > Interface list.
System Profile > Network > Airport shows only:
Software Versions:
Menu Extra:     6.2.2 (622.2)
configd plug-in:     6.2.5 (625.6)
System Profiler:     6.0.1 (601.1)
Network Preference:     6.2.2 (622.2)
AirPort Utility:     5.5.2 (552.11)
IO80211 Family:     3.2 (320.1)
Thanks!

Glad to hear that, Kernel Panics can be very difficult to diagnose because they can be caused by either software or hardware issue. Kudo's to your local Apple Store techs for finding out the problem and taking care of it, Its good to hear you are up and running reliably again.

Off-spec refurb 13" MBA (Mid-2012)

So, i recently purchased a Macbook Air (MacbookAir5,2) used here in Stockholm. What's weird about it is that it seems to be an 11" model but with a 13" screen. It came with a 64GB SSD and i've since verified with Apple that it indeed shipped with that. Also it has a 1.7 GHz i5-3317U CPU instead of the usual 1.8 GHz found in the 13" MBAs.
Has anyone else encountered this particular variation before?
It came with the extended AppleCare Protection Plan, which i've transferred with Apple and verified it's still valid. I also asked the first-line support tech at AppleCare Support about it, he agreed it was a strange beast indeed, but could offer no information save that it had been RMA:d at one point. Does this mean it probably is a factory refurb?
Going to investigate further with the original owner and a Senior Advisor at ACS.
rgds,
Krille

Thanks for the reply and tips on checking more about the battery info.
This is what I run 99% of time: Chrome, Microsoft Excel, Calendar. With wifi switched on.
It doesn't sound like application that will drain out power quicker, or does it?

IMac Intel Core 2 Duo at 2.2 GHz

Hello. A school system recently got new iMacs with the following specs:
Intel core 2 duo 2.2 ghz with 1gb of ram and OS X 10.6.4.
I work on Dells 98% of the time but looking at Apple's website, I can tell these iMacs are not current.
Can someone please explain how a school system would get iMacs this old?
I think these were in storage for at least two months.
Do you think these were refurbs that the school system received in mid 2010?
I don't know the exact screen size but I can get that info the next time I'm in front of one.
When going to about this mac it said 2.2 ghz.
I have searched everywhere and cannot find an iMac core 2 duo at 2.2.
Just wondering if the school system got hoodwinked.

Would this be the models you are talking about:
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/stats/imac-core-2-duo-2.16-20-inch-sp ecs.html
+Can someone please explain how a school system would get iMacs this old+
Since these are user to user forums, how do you expect any end user here to know the answer to that question? How about asking the school or the vendor they were purchased from? However, I'd guess that they were possibly overstocks and purchased or received as such.
If they are new and running 10.6.4 but only have 1 GB RAM, I'd recommend at least doubling that. RAM is rather inexpensive; just make sure you get the exact specs by purchasing from places such as Crucial or OWC (macsales.com); iMacs are finicky about their RAM.

2.0 GHz or 2.1 GHz?

I just bought a refurbished iMac G5 2.0 GHz computer. Now Apple has lowered the price on the 2.1 GHz model. I work at a University, so I can get the 2.1 GHz model for 1399. I paid 1299 for the refurb. So... what to do? I'm not really interested in Front Row, but the faster memory and faster video card are nice. However, not being able to change any of the internal components is a drawback. Anyone ever own both of these and happen to have feedback as to which they actually prefer? For 100 bucks more I could simply get the last generation of the iMac G5 for a great price. Or I could be happy with what I have and just not worry about the minor speed increase.
iMac G5 2.0 GHz ALS Mac OS X (10.4.4) 1 GB RAM

Nick makes some good points. There are some positives for the 2 GHz model , too, though.
Two user installable RAM slots instead of one. (giving easier, and cheaper, RAM expansion)
A readily user upgradable HD and optical drive. (which is quite significant given the speed with which HD size needs and affordability have been changeing recently)
Easier servicing as the machine ages (I really like the modular internals of the earlier ones and we don't know how well the 2.1 model will handle the ravages of time yet)
Vesa Mounting capability (not available on the 2.1)
Internal modem (useful for faxing even if you have broadband internet)
For a comparison of the speed of various recent iMacs (including the new Intel based ones) see http://www.barefeats.com/imcd.html In some areas the 2.1 comes out well on top of the older 2 GHz model (though it regularly gets creamed by the Intel version in most things). In other areas there is not much difference, so it depends to some extent on what you want to do with it.
So, yes, the 2.1 has some advantages, but the 2 has some pluses as well.
Cheers
Rod

Buy a new 15" Hi-Res or buy a refurb pre-Oct 05 model?

Hello ~
I know this isn't a "what should I buy" forum, but this forum's members appear to be much more intelligent and informed than many other Mac forums I've visited, so I'm seeking sage advice from the Brain Trust here.
I'm in the market for a 15" laptop and am very seriously considering purchasing a Powerbook. I've used only PCs (since about '84) and am fed up with Microsoft. My use is SOHO (non-graphics) and I am, ummmm, technologically challenged. Thus, I want a laptop that is very reliable and does not require a lot of tweaking.
I've read the information on this forum and many others regarding the LCD display line issue(s) on the latest rev of the Powerbooks, and it does cause me concern. Regardless of what percentage of the 15" PBs are so afflicted, my "Buzzard's Luck" will likely prevail and I would end up with such a display if I were to buy the current model. I don't want to spend $2000 on a laptop that has display "issues", which would then lead to repairs, exchanges, or restocking fees. As my goal is to escape from Windows, and Macs are my only viable alternative, I am considering buying a refurb 15" PB from the Apple store.
So, my questions are: (1) How good is the 1.67 GHz G4 w/the 1280x854 display, which is currently available as a refurb on Apple's website? (I briefly used an IBM T42 15" Flexview (1400x1050) and thought that display was great.) (2) How does the 1280x854 display on the G4 compare to IBM's 15" Flexview? And (3) Should I just suck in a deep breath, cross my fingers and close my eyes, and take my chances with a current model 15" PB?
Thanks in advance for your help.

You actually have a few options;
a) Current 15 - Go and take a long hard look at one. The display is actually pretty nice for the most part and you may not feel the lines issue is that bad.
b) current 17" - does not have lines, if you shop around you can get one for only a couple of hundred $ more than the 15" e.g Amazon is at 2250 I think.
c) Previous gen, 15" or 17" - both excellent machines. Nothing wrong with the previous gen Powerbook at all - if you get one with 128mb of video ram then it will be the same as the current one except for resolution and superdrive. It's a good display - not the n'th degree of resolution, but still very good.
but the main thing is - if you've been using windows - OS X will blow you away - it's far better - not perfect - you will find the odd glitch, but much better - and that's really what it''s ultimately all about.
If you do get one, make sure you take the time to learn how it works - ask here for initial tips - it will save you a lot of grief - for example, the applications are separate from your preferences for those apps - so each user accesses an application, loads his/her prefs on to it - and you have the app as you left it. If you delete your preference file for that app, the app creates a new one, which as far as your concerned makes the app go back to default settings. Knowing this structure will really help.
So go for it - whatever you get will be as good as the OS you run on it.

Mac OSX for the 13-inch Early 2011 Thunderbolt 2.3 GHz Intel Core i5 model.

I got a refurb MacBook Pro two days ago.
It is the 13-inch Early 2011 Thunderbolt 2.3 GHz Intel Core i5 model.
It came from Apple with Mac OSX 10.7.1 Lion installed on it (and no media on disks).
According to EveryMac.com this model originally shipped with Mac OSX 10.6.6
The "Whats in the box" lists the software on DVD as one of the parts that should have been included but there was no disk with the MacBook.
Was there or wasn't there an actual software install media disk for this model ??
The fan runs at about 2000 rpm all the time.
Is this normal ??
Mike

10.7 Lion doesn't have disks, but a Recovery Partition accessible by holding command and r keys upon booting.
You need a internet connection, fast, strong and relaible to download Lion from Apple servers.
Since that machine came with Snow Leopard originally, you can call Apple with your serial number (AppleMenu > About this Mac > More info) and request new copies of the 10.6.x grey disks.
You can learn more about Lion by visiting these links
https://support.apple.com/kb/HT4718
https://support.apple.com/kb/dl1433
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16276201#16276201

Looking at buying a new iMac - questions about a new one or refurb??

I am eyeballing the newest quad core iMac 27inch configuration with the i5 CPU and standard ati 5750 video card for $1999. I want something for gaming that will last me a while. I also saw a refurb quadcore 27inch, with i7 cpu. but with the 4850 video card..for only $1700 much more affordable to me. I am thinking the CPU is much quicker in the refurb...but is the video card lacking? it is worth the $300 extra for the better video card but slow i5 setup? :\ Any other recommendations? It also looks like I can also get a non quadcore refurb setup, but the video cards seem mediocre and I think I will be looking at something new in another 1.5 year or so.. most of them are coming with a 256mb video card..

More data here: http://www.barefeats.com/imac10g.html
Assuming Apple releases updated drivers in a future update, the 4850 is not much slower than the 5750. It's still slower though, so for games the new model will be faster. Also, if gaming is indeed your primary use, the graphics are more likely to be a bottleneck than the CPU, so you could get a built-to-order 27" with the 3.2 GHz i3 processor and the 5750 graphics for $1849 instead of $1999.
Example for the Late 2009 model:
http://www.barefeats.com/imi7g2.html
Almost no difference between the Core 2 Duo, Core i5 and Core i7 processors for games.
Finally, if gaming really is what you do with your computer most of the time, a PC would be a better choice (easier and/or cheaper to get a configuration ideal for games - the iMac is more of an all-around compromise).

Troubleshooting ethernet on new refurb

Could use some ideas on how to get the wired ethernet working on a new C2D 1.83 GHz Apple-refurb Intel Mini that I just took delivery on today.
Using wireless I just spent the day upgrading to the latest releases on Apple's software. Now running 10.5.2, with every suggested update.
Then went to install it down the hall on a wired ethernet drop and Network system prefs says that no ethernet cable is connected. Tried same cable with an iBook, and it works fine.
I get a good click when I insert the cable, and visual inspection reveals nothing out of sorts with the ethernet plug or jack.
Any suggestions -- hopefully ones that won't involve shipping this back to Apple? Thanks!

With a fresh start this morning, I have hooked up the ethernet drop to an ethernet switch. I then have a fresh ethernet cable running from the switch to the Mini.
Now the cable is detected and ethernet is working!
The ethernet drop was a 100 feet of Cat-5 cable running in conduit from a router. It worked fine with the previous Linux PC and with an iBook. I'm surprised that the ethernet switch was needed to get it to work with the Mini.
Semi OT but I was impressed with how "new" the refurb looked. No blemishes and it even had protective film on the plastic top. Is this the normal "case"? (excuse the pun)

Refurb 20" iMac

First post and I hope it's not my last. I've ordered a refurb AL iMac 20" for my home PC replacement. However, after reading about all the issues with the 20" I'm about to RMA it as fast as it arrives. Can someone please help me understand what's the deal with all the screen complaints and unintended restarts? I've read the supplied 20" LCD (regardless of Apples stated specifications) is not what's advertised.
Thanks in advance!
RF

Every refurb product I bought from the Apple Store refurb page has been "like New." It comes with the same one-year warranty. The only difference is that the box is plain brown and says "Certified Reconditioned Product" on the side. Also look at the description for included software. It comes with the original discs, so you may not get the latest version of things like iLife. For the white iMacs, you also get Tiger with an upgrade disc for Leopard. I find that to be an advantage, because you have an choice of running Tiger or Leopard.
2.16 GHz was the fastest (and only) processor speed for either the 20 or 24 inch Core 2 Duo white iMac. Here's the specs page.
http://support.apple.com/kb/SP28
Any reason you prefer the 20" over the 24" white?
I bought the 17" 2.0 GHz model (as a refurb), because it was the smallest. I use my own external display as the main display, with the iMac's display as the secondary display. It's been perfect so far.

1.83 Ghz Refurb

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