2011 model SSD Upgrade help?

I want toget an SSD for it MBP and I was wondering some suggestions for a good SSD or a link to a forum where this has been already discussed.
Thank You,
Jayme McColgan

Well, a lot of your options will depend on size of need and cost associated with it. Expect to pay a maximum of about $1/GB of size. So, the most expensive 512GB SSD will be around $500 and change. That said, it's not a linear scale, so don't think of it like that. If money is no worry, then go get a Samsung Pro 840 512GB SSD. That's the fastest and best one out there now. If cost is an issue, get something in the Crucial lines of SSD. You can get anything from a 128GB to a 256GB one for fairly good prices. Check out www.newegg.com or www.amazon.com for the best prices on whatever you decide on.
In terms of needed size, some people pick a small/less expensive model so that they can load the OS and their apps on it and then they keep all their data on another external hard drive or something. This is all personal preference, but I would say the minimum would be a 128GB one for OS/Apps. Anything less and you can run tight based on what you have loaded. Some people have a ton of apps and may want a minimum of 256GB. Me prersonally, I'm waiting until the Samsung Pro 840's come down in price a bit and watching to see if any specials come up with discount codes, etc. When a really good deal eventually presents itself, I'll probably jump on it. I'm anticipating by summer time the prices for those drives should drop into the $4xx mark and if I get lucky with a sale or something, the price could even cross into the $300 mark area. When that happens, I'm buying one. I want a larger drive because I want to keep all my stuff on one disk. I use externals for backup only, but that's just me.

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MBP 13 in Early 2011 Model OS Upgrade Options?

MBP 13 in Early 2011 Model. Currently running OS X 10.7.5 (Lion), but want to upgrade to 10.8 or newer. What is the best option? I've heard Yosemite hasn't worked too well for many users and just want to upgrade to at least 10.8 because many video editing applications require it now. As an added piece of info, I plan to upgrade my RAM from 4 GB to 8 GB.

MBP 13 in Early 2011 Model. Currently running OS X 10.7.5 (Lion), but want to upgrade to 10.8 or newer. What is the best option? I've heard Yosemite hasn't worked too well for many users and just want to upgrade to at least 10.8 because many video editing applications require it now. As an added piece of info, I plan to upgrade my RAM from 4 GB to 8 GB.

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Dear all,
A few months ago I had an SSD upgrade and I purchased a Caddy and installed my old HDD on it, and I also changed my Battery because the old one only lasted for 15 inutes after 40 cycles :O
Anyways when I insert a windows 7 or 8 x64 DVD in my USB Samsung DVD Drive, My mac book detects Windows (with the windows 7 DVD) and Detects Windows and EFI Boot (with Windows 8), I have tried every option of those doesn't work.
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With Windows it boots to a screen with one blinking cursor top left and then it ejects the DVD ROM and that it :s
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I am willing to try this, but I was kinda trying to find a solution that doesn't need me to unscrew stuff ..etc

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Hello all!
So I'm a part time YouTuber who enjoys using photoshop and editing videos mostly 1080p and 720p, but basically I'm always mobile and I don't get to use my Custom Built PC as much as I'd like so I was wondering would it be worth buying a MacBook Pro i5 2011/12 for around £500 and buying a 240gb SSD for it for around £75, the specs of the MacBook are:
4GB RAM (Upgradeable)
250GB SSD (If I install it)
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Any thoughts on this? Would It be a good laptop for editing on and all?
I've looked up the SSD and it apparently supports TRIM so im guessing it would support OS X Yosemite, its a Kingston 3K 240GB SATA III SSD

Apple removed OS TRIM support from 3rd party SSD's within Yosemite. The debate is on about which SSD manufactures use Active Garbage Collection (aka TRIM) and those that depend on OS TRIM support.
There are many who are going to remain on OS X 10.9.x until this issue is further considered by Apple.
In the mean time, search Google for Yosemite SSD TRIM and you will find out a lot more about what's going on. That said, Upgradeable (i have no affiliation with them) indicates they're all using Crucial SSD drives with Yosemite without issues. Link below if you're interested!
http://www.upgradeable.com.au/do-crucial-drives-still-work-without-TRIM-in-Macs. html
Hope that helps...
~TechStud

RAM and/or SSD upgrade help?

Hello, and thanks in advance for any insights to the following:
I CURRENTLY have a macbook pro with 2.66 core 2 , and 4 gigs of RAM 1067 DDR3.
Current hard drive is the 320gb spinning drive.
2 questions.
Would I benefit from changing out the RAM for 8 gigs of 1333mhz RAM?
And secondly, changing out the Drive to a 128GB SSD? 250read 230write.
I'm assuming the SSD is a "no-brainer" and would speed things up somewhat.
I currently have Firefox, iMovie, Picasa, , Mail, iPhoto and Activity monitor OPEN, along with a few utilities.
After 2 days of use without shutting down is as follows:
FREE 329mb
WIRED 635mb
ACTIVE 2.43 GB
INACTIVE 645mb
USED 3.65GB
VM SIVE 140GB
PAGE INS 583mb
PAGE OUTS 25mb
SWAP USED 112mb
Thanks again.

Your computer _will not run with 1333 RAM_, however if you upgrade to 8GB you should gain some performance. I'd recommend Crucial and OWC (www.macsales.com) RAM.
An SSD will only speed up starting your computer and opening files and applications. Because Mac's should really be left on 24/7 (let them sleep when not in use) restarting is a moot point. If you are in habit of opening lots of files and applications throughout a normal day you will be impressed with the speed of an SSD.
Another alternative and far less expensive is getting a Hybrid HD. Currently Seagate is the only manufacture I know that makes one, I had one in my recently sold MBP and was very impressed with it's performance. The only downside I noticed was the battery life was diminished somewhat. Here is a link to the drive I was referring to, I've seen them as low as about $100 but normally they sell for about $130-$140. IMHO it's a much better bang for the buck than a SSD.
Roger

Frustratingly, since I upgraded to Yosemite 10.10, I too am having the worst problems with WiFi dropping out. I've never had this problem before on my iMac 27-inch mid 2011 model. Turning WiFi off and then back on again sometimes works. Help please.

Frustratingly, since I upgraded to Yosemite 10.10, I too am having the worst problems with WiFi dropping out. I've never had this problem before on my iMac 27-inch mid 2011 model. Turning WiFi off and then back on again sometimes works. Help please. I've already tried a lot of your suggested fixes, but without success. Why hasn't Apple Fixed this?

Please test after taking each of the following steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved. Back up all data before making any changes.
Step 1
Take the applicable steps in this support article. The Wireless Diagnostics program generates a large file of information about your system, which would be used by Apple Engineering in case of a support incident. Don't post the contents here.
Step 2
Disconnect all USB 3 devices. If you don't know which are USB 3, disconnect all USB devices except keyboard and mouse.
Step 3
If you're not using a wireless keyboard or trackpad, disable Bluetooth by selecting Turn Bluetooth Off from the menu with the Bluetooth icon. If you don't have that menu, open the Bluetooth preference pane in System Preferences and check the box marked Show Bluetooth in menu bar. Test. If you find that Wi-Fi works better with Bluetooth disabled, you should use the 5 GHz Wi-Fi band. Your router may not support it; in that case, you need a new router.
Step 4
Open the Energy Saver pane in System Preferences and unlock the settings, if necessary. Select the Power Adapter tab, if there is one. Uncheck the box marked
Wake for Wi-Fi network access
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Step 5
Open the Network pane in System Preferences and make a note of your settings in the Wi-Fi service. It may be helpful to take screenshots of the various tabs in the preference pane. If the preference pane is locked, unlock it by clicking the padlock icon and entering your administrator password. Delete Wi-Fi from the service list on the left by selecting it and clicking the minus-sign button at the bottom. Then recreate the service by clicking the plus-sign button and following the prompts.
Step 6
In the Wi-Fi settings, select
Advanced... ▹ TCP/IP ▹ Configure IPv6: Link-local
Click OK and then Apply.
Step 7
Reset the System Management Controller.
Step 8
Reset the PRAM.
Step 9
Launch the Keychain Access application. Search for and delete all AirPort network password items that refer to the network. Make a note of the password first.
Step 10
Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service center.

[solved] Optibay SSD/HDD error with SATA2/3 drive in late 2011 model

Hi,
I'd like to post just in case someone else stumbles over this problem: I have a late 2011 model MacBook Pro. Some of them are equipped with DVD drives (or rather connectors) that allow 6GB/s (SATA III), others only allow 3GB/s (SATA II). I happen to have one of the SATA III models (check About this Mac > More information > System report > SATA; in my case it says "link speed: 6GB/s").
When I upgraded my system drive to SSD I chose to go the optibay route - taking out the DVD drive and replacing it with a caddy so I can use my old HDD in it. Unfortunately afterwards I couldn't write or do anything with the HDD. I just got a Finder error -50. I tried formatting but that didn't work and messed up the whole situation. When I tried to delete the partion with disk utility I got an error "Partition failed with error. Wiping volume data to prevent future accidental probing failed." (for German users, so Google's their friend as well: Auf Deutsch heißt diese Fehlermeldung im Festplattendienstprogramm "Das Entfernen der Volumendaten zum Verhindern zukünftiger unbeabsichtigter Überprüfungen ist fehlgeschlagen").
Changing positions of HDD and SSD appearently is a bad idea because people got beachballs and freezes and all kinds of things. I finally resolved my problem by buying another caddy (=optibay) that was specifically only for SATA 2 (although my system report tells me I could use SATA 3...); in contrast my old caddy was for SATA 3. Voilà, the error is gone and I can write on the HDD just fine again.
I hope this helps anyone.

For solution please read my full question.

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2011 models must use:
•204-pin PC-10600 (1333 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM
And 2012 models must use:
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Thank You!

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thank you

Thank you. Have gone for 8 instead as the most I get up to is some photoshopping. So this should be enough. Gods to know if I change my mind :)

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Hi all,
I have just purchased a new 2012 MBP 15" (Non-retina) machine as well as a hybrid 750GB drive from Seagate and 16GB RAM upgrade from Crucial. Both machines are running the latest versions of Lion. What I would like to do is the following:
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Comapatibility of samsung ssd to macbookpro 13inch early 2011 model.
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Thank you.

romdogg,
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2011 model SSD Upgrade help?

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