6D vs 5d-mk3 for long exposure high ISO

Some on line info of unkown accuracy shows the 6D has better long exposure high ISO performance. This is known as amp glow.
The intended usage would be for astro phorotgraphy or night photgraphy where 30 second exposures at ISO1600 and up are required.
I already have a 5D-mk3 comming for evaluation where I will compare it to my 1DS-mk3. But I thought this is a good question for this forum. It seems strange that the lower cost camera would have supperior performance.
Anyone have personal experince or a technical explanation? Or is the information incorrect?
The same info also shows a vast improvement over the 1DS-mk3 and 5D-mk2

I know this topic is long dead, but somehow I was searching more comparisons at night shooting scenario between 6d vs 5dm3 and came across that topic (also in this forums here).
I think that below article comparing 6d to 5dm3 (and later also to 5dm2) at iso 3200 & 6400 with 15 sec & 30 sec exposure time, shows pretty good results in favor of 6D. the maker of that comparison also intended to use 6D camera for astrophotography.
http://petapixel.com/2012/12/13/canon-6d-and-5dmk3-noise-comparison-for-high-iso-long-exposures/
hope it helps.

Similar Messages

Set manual shutter speed for long exposure photographs

To my suprise, i can not manually set the shutterspeed of the camera (a big disapoinment from iphone which can do this and i had before) i want to photograph waterfalls and create dreamy scenes.
4.3 did not fix this, anyone know if 4.4 update will adress this?
Is the problem with Sony or Android, since there are NO apps on google play that support long exposure in full resolution.
Anyone?

While we get an answer, perhaps understanding shutter speed will be a good idea for those who doesn't know how it works
http://digital-photography-school.com/understanding-shutter-speed
http://layrsapp.wordpress.com/2013/08/29/techniques-of-shutter-speed-and-aperture-control-dlsr-vs-a-...
"I'd rather be hated for who I am, than loved for who I am not." Kurt Cobain (1967-1994)

New Camera Profiles and very high ISO files

I am having some difficulty directing this 'beta' comment as there no longer seems to be a Labs forum for the new Profiles. My apologies, if necessary, for therefore intruding on a user-to-user.
Also, to add to my misdemeanours, I previously posted the following (slightly amended here) in the LR forum - which again may be not the ideal place.
"I have been really impressed with the camera profiles - in my case the Standard NEF for a D3 - and posted a complimentary message to that effect on the Labs LR beta2 forum under the pseudonym Rockshead.
The revelation that each profile is camera specific raises a particular question about that for the D3. Whilst the conversions at 'normal' ISO ratings are - as I said - stunning; the same cannot be said of those for the very high ISO numbers available with the D3; compared to the conversion of the same in View/CaptureNX. Applying LR noise reduction - by the bucket load - cerrtainly aids the definition, but has little effect on the colour differences.
I suppose my question is, is this something that we have to live with; or is there hope for the future that this will be able to be sorted by further tweak of the profiles. I can quite understand if this is element of the conversion is another ingredient of Nikon's secret sauce, and therefore outside of Adobe's future thinking? Nevertheless, it would be interesting to know the thinking.
Let me hasten to say, I am content to live with it for the relatively few ultra high ISO pictures I deal with. No complaints at all from me on the brilliant way Adobe has tackled the camera profile upgrade. Nevertheless, regular use of high ISOs is coming, and so it is a legitimate question,"

> Whilst the conversions at 'normal' ISO ratings are - as I said - stunning; the same cannot be said of those for the very high ISO numbers available with the D3; compared to the conversion of the same in View/CaptureNX. Applying LR noise reduction - by the bucket load - cerrtainly aids the definition, but has little effect on the colour differences
1. Can if you can provide a documentation for such color differences in form of a raw file and pointing out some differences caused by the conversion?
2. "Very high ISO numbers" is not very specific. I wonder if you are aware of the fact, that your camera's highest real ISO setting is 6400. The settings 12800 and 25600 are eye-wash, meant only for those creating JPEG in-camera.

What triggers long exposure 15fps mode for color?

Hi,
As most of us are aware the color stream automatically switches to 15fps long exposure mode when it detects low light situations.
No this is not a thread to complain about the sensitivity of it (although some control would be very welcome), but I have a question:
What exactly triggers this mode?
Does it measure an average brightness in the color channel?
Or just the darkest pixel?
Am I correct in assuming it's purely based on the color and the IR is not referenced at all for this?
I am working with HDFace and figuring out how I can best ensure 30fps mode by proper lighting.
Since it references color only for detecting blinks (according to the docs) HDFace tracking is really sensitive, and very negatively impacted, when the color switches to 15fps mode. Especially since it internally always uses synchronized frames so IR then also
switches to 15fps.
Greets,
Brekel

From my experience my guess would be that autoexposure is based off of the darkest pixel. When trying to light an interior scene there have been times where I've had half of the frame completely blown out with the darker half of the screen properly exposed.
Even still I've had issues with over exposure when the entire frame is well lit. I suspect there is another factor in play that attempts to detect "low light".
I've noticed when working during the day, with a little bit of diffuse natural daylight in the room the Kinect rarely drops below 30fps. However at night, when the room is only lit by tungsten bulbs, no matter how much light is in the room it struggles to
maintain 30, is blown out and has a very long shutter speed.
I haven't had a chance to properly test it with a light meter, but it seems that the Kinect treats tungsten lighting (color temperature 3200k) as darker than daylight lighting (color temperature 5500k) even if it is the same or more amount of light.
Again, this is just going by eye so I could be completely wrong. I will try and do proper tests this weekend.

How to combine digital shots in CS6 for a really long exposure

Hello all,
I want to make a really long-exposure shot using my Canon 40D DSLR. If I just set the camera to Bulb and take a long exposure, I get a lot of noise that eventually wipes out the image. I understand that you can achieve the equivalent of a long-exposure by combining several (many?) shorter exposures of the same scene. This is routinely done in Astrophotography and other areas, but I don't know how to do it. I tried googling some of the terms, but I guess I didn't use the right terminology because the search didn't turn up what I wanted.
Can this be done in Photoshop, or do I need some other tool to accomplish this?
I'm using CS6 on a Mac Mini with OSX 10.8.4.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Kevin H.

kjhart0133 wrote:
I tried googling some of the terms, but I guess I didn't use the right terminology because the search didn't turn up what I wanted.
The term you want to look for is "dark frame subtraction".
Your Canon 40D has a feature called Long Exposure Noise Reduction. As part of your Google searches you should research whether you need to turn off that feature if you are going to do dark frame subtraction manually.
Sorry I can't be more detailed but I don't actually do much of this, I just remember reading about that stuff.

When i shoot long exposures of 20 seconds and higher, the lightroom always shows the aperture as F4

When i shoot long exposures of 20 seconds and higher, the lightroom always shows the aperture as F4 even if i have used F16 or F11. Why is this happening??

Try them and find out if it's just a Lightroom issue or a metadata issue.
http://owl.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/

Is it possible to delay the flash on a T5i to fire at the end of a long exposure shot

I'm wanting to take long exposure shots of dancers and would like the flash to fire at the end of the exposure instead of the begining to increse the depth of field right as the shutter closes. Is that possible using the on camera flash of a T5i and if so what are the settings?
Thanks,
John

When you use a TTL flash (Canon's E-TTL or E-TTL II) the camera uses a multi-zone metering system (think of an imaginary grid system overlaying your image) and (1) meters with no flash at all, then (2) fires a pre-flash at very low power while simultaneously metering again. It then compares the difference in each zone between #1 and #2 to determine how much of a difference the flash made. By doing this it can identify highly reflective surfaces (e.g. mirrors, glass, reflective metals, etc.) and eliminate those from the flash evaluation. It can also find zones where the flash seemingly made no difference at all (e.g. if there was a light source in that zone... such as a lamp) and elminate those. Light sources and reflections would ordinarily fool a flash metering system into thinking it had produced enough light ... even if it hadn't. With those zones safely eliminated it can then compare the difference for each zone between #1 and #2 to determine how much addtional power should be necessary to correctly light them.
It does all of this during the pre-flash. The shutter is closed when it does this (the light will not affect your image.)
Then the shutter opens and at some point it fires the flash again... only this time using the power level calculated during the pre-flash phase. Only this second firing of the flash will show up in your image.
If you switch the flash to manual mode, you wont get a pre-flash.
The on-board flash is useful as a "fill" flash (decreasing the severity of shadows) and it can be used as a primary flash IF the subject is reasonably close (e.g. around 10' is fine... 14' feet is a stretch and beyond that... not so great.)
An externally attached speedlite flash can provide significantly more power. It can also be located off-camera to provide better lighting (on camera lighting is "flat" because there's no highlight/shadow side to any 3D surface... textures look 2D as a result.)
As for "depth of field"... this is a different problem and the flash can help, but there are some caveats.
If you're shooting indoors with only the available light in the room, then you're likely in challenging circumstances and using lenses with wide-open apertures. Hence the depth of field is fairly narrow.
If you could increase the lighting then you could reduce the aperture opening and increase the depth of field.
But there is a catch.... light exhibits a property sometimes called "fall off". This is because it follows a rule in physics called the "inverse square law" whereby the intensity of light decreases as the distance from the light source increases. Each time the distance from the light source increases by the square root of 2, the light intensity is cut in half (exactly half... that's not an approximation.) E.g. the amount of light illuminating a subject which is 14.1 feet away from the flash will be exactly half as compared to a subject which was only 10' away. The square root of 2 is approximately 1.41. So 10 x 1.41 = 14.1.
This means if you are photographing two subjects... one is 10' away and the other is about 14' away then the more distant subject will only receive half as much light. Suppose we go to a crazy distance... and we have a flash 100' away. NOW the second person has to be 141' away before they get half as much light. This means two subjects within just a few feet of each will not receive "noticeably" different levels of light.
While placing the flash farther from the two subjects will reduce the difference in illumination on your near vs. far subject, built-in flashes cannot handle these larger distances... they don't have enough power. But an external flash brings more power for you to do this.
Canon's speedlite model numbers actually provide an indication of their power level. If you delete the trailing zero from the model number (e.g. in a 430EX II you'd omit the "0" and get "43"... in a 600EX-RT you'd omit one "0" and get "60', etc.) the number you get is the flash "guide number" in meters. The "guide number" is an indicator of how far the flash can adequately illuminate a subject... but the f-stop and ISO settings you use on the camera will change this. So the "guide number" uses a baseline ISO of 100 and a baseline f-stop of f/1. Of course you don't have an f/1 lens but the baseline is used because it makes the math easy. You divide the guide number by the f-stop you are using. e.g. if you are shooting at ISO 100 and f/8 then you'd divide your guide number (suppose you have a Canon Speedlite 600EX-RT.. that's a guide number of 60 meters) and you'd get 60 ÷ 8 = 7.5 meters. Convert meters to feet and that works out to 24.6 (about 25'). Of course that's at ISO 100. Bump up to ISO 200 and you can multiply that distance by 1.41... or bump up to ISO stops to ISO 400 and you can double the distance (about 50'... and that's at f/8).
I should caveat that this assumes you are pointing the flash directly at the subject and there are no light modifiers in use (no soft-diffusers, you aren't "bouncing" the flash off a ceiling or wall, etc.)
Here's a Youtube video that might help you understand the light fall-off problem.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

My battery needs service as it is not working for long. Apple claims it is not a defective battery and that it is my fault since I had the computer for 2 1/2 years and have only run the battery down to empty 100 times. It is my fault because I did no

Con't
Apple claims that because I did not drain my battery frequently and kept it plugged in for extended periods of time, that it is my fault the battery is failing. I disagree because I was not ever told to consistently drain my battery before recharging or not to keep it on and plugs in for extended periods of time. I do keep my desktop computer on most of the time and that is why I have kept my Macbook air on for extended time periods. I feel that Applecare should cover this battey issue and not charge me for replacing the battey. I feel I should have been told to not keep my computer consistently running on with poweror the battery will fail. Has anyone had this problem? Apple should replace my battery under Apple care as my battery does not keep a charge anymore.
I'll wait to hear.

You said---Apple claims that because I did not drain my battery frequently
You said--- I was not ever told to consistently drain my battery before recharging
You should never do that on purpose, whoever told you that had it wrong or you misunderstood something
Sure you dont have that backwards? thats exactly what you DONT want to do.
Did you often drain the battery very low? that would explain a lot.
Someone might have been misinformed about "battery calibration" regarding much older Macs with removable batteries (see bottom)
You said-----I do keep my desktop computer on most of the time and that is why I have kept my Macbook air on for extended time periods.
thats a problem there, youre not supposed to do that.
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above:   “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
                    This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
*If you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode       (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
And best "tip" is if its near a socket,...plug it in as long as you can (especially at home) since cycle count on the battery are the "miles that wear out the tires (battery)", however again, not plugged in all or most of the time.
General rule to remember of Lithium batteries is:
Never drain them LOW & dont always/often store them HIGH
While cycle count is commonly seen to be the “miles” on your Lithium Ion pack cell in your Macbook, which they are, this distinction is not a fine line at all, and it is a big misconception to “count charge cycles”
*A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 50-60% remaining of a 100% charge has better battery usage and care than another person who has 300 charge cycles at say 15% remaining on a 100% charge.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific.    As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
                          (as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
LiPo (lithium polymer, same as in your Macbook) batteries do not need conditioning. However...
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium cells the "80% Rule" ...meaning use 80% of the charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life.
Never let your Macbook go into shutdown and safe mode from loss of power, you can corrupt files that way, and the batteries do not like it.
The only quantified abuse seen to Lithium cells are instances when often the cells are repeatedly drained very low…. key word being "often"
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
From Apple on batteries:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
http://www.apple.com/batteries/
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
Peace
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.

Datalogging using Waveform for long hours

Hi all,
Im logging the data using the waveform. The chart length size is given as 1024. I need to log the data for long hours (5 to 10 hours). How much i have to set in the chart length ? how it is calculated ? Is it the right way for extended period of data logging ?
Naganatha Subramanian

naganathas wrote:
Hi all,
Im logging the data using the waveform. The chart length size is given as 1024. I need to log the data for long hours (5 to 10 hours). How much i have to set in the chart length ? how it is calculated ? Is it the right way for extended period of data logging ?
Naganatha Subramanian
I'll assume you are asking about the "Wavefrom datatype" when used with charts.
The history length is the "number of waveforms" and not the number of points. If you present an hours worth of data once every hour, it will display 1000 hours (in thoery, never tried it with those numbers and high sample rates will tax memory).
If your app spec has a hard and fast req that it drop suff older then the code will have to regularly examine the time of what is in the history and explicitly remove the old stuff ( read history, toss old, redefine history).
Ben
Ben Rayner
I am currently active on.. MainStream Preppers
Rayner's Ridge is under construction

Tool bar gifs are not showing up when the application left idle for long.

Hi,
I have a Java application built with jdk sdk 1.4. This application was earlier on jdk 1.3 and very recently we moved to 1.4.
The problem here is, tool bar gifs don't show up when the application is left idle for long or kept minimized for long. After I minimize and maximize, they show up. Also sometimes few are seen and few are not, and again as I said minimize and maximize, the rest(which were not showing up earlier) turn and therest don't.
What could be the reason. This was not the case in jdk 1.3.
Any help wil be highly appriciated.
Thanx

I have the same issue with 1.4.

EOS Utility, wifi, the 70D and long exposure

Greetings,
Can I use the wifi function on the 70D and EOS Utility function for take long exposures (1-5mins) without any cables on the camera. Meaning, can the EOS utility accept or set exposure times above 30 seconds via wifi and the utility software?
My desire would be to have no wires on the camera body nor to my laptop, yet have greater than 30 seconds exposure control.
Regards,
Brian

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Can Long Exposure Noise Reduction be turned off ICLE5000L

So as above. Can it be truned off.I'm taking my own dark frames and using a PC to subtract them. Having to wait an HOUR for the camera to be able to take another shot after a 30 min exposure is down right irritating! It says on the Tech Spec, it is available. Not mandatory.

This Sony support page says "Long Exposure noise reduction is not performed with the following functions." Continuous Adv.Speed Priority Cont.Bracket: Cont.Intelligent AutoHand-held Night Shot in Scene SelectionAnti Motion BlurSweep Panorama I haven't tried but hoping one of the above will work for you.

Long exposure with the iPhone camera?

Is it possible to take long-exposure shots with the iPhone 5s camera?

Yes, there are apps for that. Looking the App Store for camera apps and choose one that suits your needs.
By the way, a Google search using the exact same words as your thread title came up with the first result of 'LongExpo' in the App Store.

When request is submitted it goes for pending standby for long time

Hi all,
Does anyone have any idea about this?
When im running oracle standard report on production its going to Pending Standby for long time and then it works normally whereas when i run the same report on clone server it directly runs without making any wait. Can anyone advice me what could be the issue related to this. Im unable to get to the root cause, so need your advice.
Ours is 12.1.2 EBS - RAC (11.1.0.7) - HPux (11.31) env for production
12.1.2 (EBS) -- Single node(11.1.0.7)-Hpux (11.31) env for Clone.
thanks in advance.

increase some processes in cuncurrent manager.
Reagrds,

Report running for long time & performance tuning

Hi All,
(1). WebI report is running for long time.so what are the steps i need to check for it ?
(2). Can you tell me about performance tuning in BO ?
please help me.....
Thanks
Kumar

(1). WebI report is running for long time.so what are the steps i need to check for it ?
The first step is to see if the problem lies in the query on the data source or in webi itself. Depending on the data source there are different ways to extract the query and try to run it against the database. Which source does your report uses?
(2). Can you tell me about performance tuning in BO ?
I would recommend to start by reading the administrator's guide. There is a section about how to improve performance.
Regards,
Stratos

6D vs 5d-mk3 for long exposure high ISO

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