Absurd keyboard repair issue question

So I've had issues with the space key not working well on my MacBook Pro for awhile, and I finally took it into the local Apple store to have them look at it. Apparently the sensor's not working and needs to be fixed. Here's the absurd part. $330.00 to replace the entire top part of the computer due to the unibody construction. $330.00 to fix the space key? And a seven day wait for the repair? Seem reasonable?

Welcome to the Apple discussions.
If they are sending it to the Apple Depot for repair, that price is for the Depot to fix anything that needs fixing to get the system as close as possible to it's original condition when new. 7 day turnaround is about what it takes. When I had a logic board replaced in one of our systems, it went to the Depot in Houston, Tx. Ask the store if it's an in store repair or being sent to the Apple Depot. Some things are more expensive if repaired in the store.

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Low cost keyboard repair / localisation question.

Hi chaps,
I recently receved a dead macbook pro 15" (2008, nVidia problem) for free, so I took it all to bits and baked the logic board at gas mark 6 for 7.5 mins with nothing to loose other than some time, and blow me if it didn't boot up and works fine. I chucked in a HD and some old RAM, and I now have a nice chuckabout laptop.
The only thing is some of the keys on the keyboard seem to be dead, namely 7,8, volume keys, backspace and the keyboard illumination keys do work but reqire persuasion. Obviously, the quickest fix is just to replace the keyboard with a second hand unit. However, UK keyboards for A1260 units are quite expensive, and I'm not really willing to sink a lot of cash into this little project.
What I'd like to know is this: are all keyboards (of the same era) the same underneath just with different keys and mapped correctly from the OS? US and other european boards are cheaper so if I were to buy one and transpose the keys over... would I end up with a UK board?
Thanks in advance for any replies.
AppleGrapple

AppleGrapple,
the problem might be on the logic board rather than with the keyboard; if that’s the case, then replacing the keyboard would not help.
Given that caveat, my guess would be that any non-US, non-Japanese keyboard would be interchangeable with your UK keyboard. (You would need to get a matching upper case to fit a US or Japanese keyboard in your MacBook Pro.) The International English and Dutch keyboards are closest to the UK keyboard, from a keycap perspective.

Water in Keyboard -- repair question (time/recovery)

Hi All. I think that I spilled a tiny bit of water on my keyboard earlier, right around my shift key. A few hours later, my shift key was permanately engaged and would not stop. I didn't know what the problem was at the time, so stupidly I tried to mess with it a little and popped it off. I also restarted my computer in hopes that that would help, and it did not.
Now, when I try to reboot, it automatically goes into safe mode because of the shift key. I can't enter my password correctly because it is case sensitive, so I can't even get on to my computer in safe mode.
I realize that I'm likely going to have to have the keyboard repaired. But will my files be able to be recovered? I have some very important ones that were not backed up (stupid, I know ). Also, will they be able to access these files BEFORE sending my computer off for repairs? It's imperative that I have them.
Also, does anyone know about how long it takes to get a keyboard replaced? I have my dissertation due in 2 weeks so I am completely freaking out right now.

It was literally a couple of drops. I thought I contained them before any fell into the keyboard but I can't imagine that this is all coincidence.
I don't know how to remove the battery on my macbook -- I've never done it before.
I'm fine with having to replace the stupid keyboard if need be, I'm just concerned about my files and having access to them, and how long the repair will take.

X100e keyboard/mouse issues

Hi Folks,
I've been having trouble with my recently purchased x100e (running Windows 7), and I'm hoping that someone may be able to help me out. I've been looking through the forums and on the web for solutions, but no luck.
Starting a few days ago, I notice that whenever I press a button on the keyboard, a dialog box pops up to ask me if I want to display the Trackpoint Guide. This prevents me from typing anything longer than one keystroke, because the dialog box just comes back when I hit the next key regardless of pressing "Yes" or "No." Additionally, whenever I press a key, the cursor changes from the standard pointer to the scroll icon that would display if I was pressing the middle mouse/scroll button above the trackpad. Furthermore, the middle mouse/scroll button above the trackpad no longer works when pressed.
I have noticed that it is possible to disable the Trackpoint dialog box from coming up by clicking the "do not display this message" option, but the cursor issue persists no matter what. The laptop is hardly a month old. I use antivirus, anti-spyware, etc. I have tried updating the mouse/trackpoint driver and also rolling it back to the originally installed driver, but neither step seems to resolve the issue. I thought that perhaps I had inadvertently changed some of the mouse settings, so I did a factory reset on the machine. Unfortunately, that didn't solve the issue either. I did an extra factory reset just to make sure. I've run anti-virus and anti-malware scans to see if anything would show up, but nothing does. This one really has me perplexed. If there's anyone out there who could offer any advice, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks!

Hi onlylive2x,
Welcome to Lenovo Forums.
Could you try doing a factory reset without installing any antivirus or antispyware and see if there are any keyboard/mouse issues? This could be some software which is causing a conflict with the mouse drivers.
Check out the Community Knowledge Base for hints and tips.
Did someone help you today? Press the star on the left to thank them with a Kudo!
If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution"!
X240 | 8GB RAM | 512GB Samsung SSD

APPROVED Apple Products - Repair Issue

Ok, I recently had problems with my PowerBook G4 Laptop screen. When I adjusted the screen angle it would flicker and change colors and make it extremely hard to read, let alone use. I took this to an Apple Store and it was sent out for repair. It was returned and fixed, however, the solution was to remove one of my RAM chips they said was causing the error. Apple claims my RAM chip is NOT APPROVED for use with my laptop and was resulting in the product failure. So I received my fixed laptop with the removed RAM chip in a plastic bag. Here's my issue/question:
I bought the computer at CDW who is and Authorized Apple Partner. It came as a bundled packed and included a free upgrade of RAM (512MB Edge). How can an Apple Partner be selling system setups with products that aren't approved by Apple. So, now I'm out 512MB of RAM and no idea what is an APPROVED product to replace it. Let alone I have to pay to replace the RAM chip. In addition, if I use an UNAPPROVED Apple product and it results in the same failure, Apple won't cover this repair. What is a consumer to do?
Where can I find a listing of Apple APPROVED RAM chip providers? The chip is from Edge Technologies and they make numerious chips for all different Apple products. I feel stuck between a rock and a hard place. Bought the system from an Apple Partner, should have come with approved Apple products, Apple claims not and now I'm lost of 512MB RAM and no idea who is legit and APPROVED.
Anyone, please help!
Lifelong Apple Enthusiast Who IS EXTREMELY FRUSTRATED.

While I can't speak to your question regarding how CDW works, it's possible that in fact the 512MB RAM strip is indeed not working correctly. Our Powerbooks are sensitive to the quality of memory used, due to how power is managed on the memory bus. In terms of 'Apple approved' memory, I haven't seen a list anywhere. They do use Samsung and Micron (Crucial to you and me) memory in their systems, amongst other memory brands. In several 1.67Ghz Powerbooks's, I've used Kingston (not their valueram line), Crucial, and Samsung, which have all performed well. Crucial guarantees their memory works when chosen from the memory selector on their site http://www.crucial.com. Samsung is sold thru distributors - I use OWC at http://www.macsales.com .
You could always pay 2X and buy it from an Apple store if you want to guarantee there aren't future issues. If you want to buy memory outside of Apple, and ensure it's memory Apple uses, get Samsung. See this page: http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/iBooks-PowerBooks/G4-Aluminum/ . Depending on which model you have (pre or post Oct 2005), Samsung 512mb is $38 for the pre-Oct 2005 model, and they don't have Samsung 512mb for the hi-rez model. For 1GB, if you were so inclined, Samsung runs $58 to $86, depending on your model.

U330 Diagnostics Program and Keyboard Sensor Issues

I'm sorry if this has been posted before but I've been searching for awhile now and can't find it.
I was wondering if there was any type of diagnostics program for the U330 to test my cpu, fans and the general hardware.
Also i was wondering if anyone else with the U330 notices any keyboard sensor issues. Such as, I have to press firmly in the middle of the keys for it to register. Or I have to press firmly on the "T" or "Y" button for it to register the click. It's very bothersome and I was wondering if anyone else with a U330 has a similar issue?
Message Edited by droptopmetro on 05-15-2009 01:01 AM

What do you mean by testing cpu/fan/ram? You can test cpu by OCCT or S&M and you can test RAM by memtest86+
Regarding keyboard - you should have it replaced, it's a common faoult in some ideapads.
//help will save the world

X201 Ultrabase Keyboard / Mouse Issues

Hello,
I have recently deployed 3 identical X201 systems with the Ultrabase to some of my users, they are imaged systems and should all work virtually the same but one is having an odd quirk. If he turns the system on while it is docked, the external mouse & keyboard he has connected to the Ultrabase do not respond unless he first opens the laptop and uses the normal keyboard / touchpad. I can't see any reason for this to be happening but I am hoping someone has come across this before, hopefully it is not an issue with the dock itself.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

new keyboard resolved issue.

Do you find that connecting to a Bluetooth keyboard creates issues w/ the new iPad's performance?

Do you find connecting to a Bluetooth keyboard creates issues w/ the new iPad's performance?

I have an Adesso case with bluetooth keyboard for my iPad 2. No affect on performance. Keybord easier to use compared to on-screen keyboard. Plus it has more keys compared to on-screen keyboard.
 Cheers, Tom

MOVED: [Athlon64] Keyboard Recognization issue...

This topic has been moved to AMD64 nVidia Based board.
[Athlon64] Keyboard Recognization issue...

Quote from: dacull on 11-September-05, 06:06:15
So seems this keyboard issue remains nearly a year after i first reported it atleast..
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=61832.0
I managed to find one PS2 keyboard that gave me enough functionality to be able to turn on the USB, then switch to a USB keyboard that solved any instability problems, no problems since then.
The only advice i can say is completely remove power, when you switch power on all the LEDs on your PS2 keyboard should flash. if they dont, switch off and then on again until they flash, then press the reset button to startup your computer.
as you know USB is disabled by default :(
I completely unhooked every component, making my case just as empty as the day I got it. Every single part detached from one another...
I then hooked up all the absolute bare minimum components, and on power-on, and after several power-ons, the PS/2 keyboard did NOT flash, unfortunitly. However, I noticed the USB keyboard hooked into the USB slots DOES flash. I have decided to juist pay the shipping fee and have newegg replace the mobo. Better safe than sorry. I am sure if my PS/2 slot wasnt defective, the mobo wouldn't have given me a single problem and would be easy as pie to set up for my first build. I am confident however that MSI does make great stuff. I hope my replacement works as smoothly as MSI has a reputation for. Thanks for all your help.

WiSM Design and Testing Issues / Questions / Queries etc......

Hi all. Heres hoping you can help........
I hope you can grasp the following description of the test network I have. I admit a diagram would have been better but it's hard to send a whiteboard over the web : )
I am currently in the process of designing and testing out a wireless solution and am having a few issues / queries. I have a 6509 with a Wireless Services Module (WiSM) installed in slot 3, one Cisco 1240 AP on a remote LAN and a DHCP server on a remote LAN (not the same as the AP)
I am using LAG on controller 1 with port channel 1 and native VLAN 20.
VLAN 20 is 10.1.1.0 / 24
The management interface has IP address of 10.1.1.10
The AP-manager interface has IP address of 10.1.1.11
VLAN 11 is 128.88.1.0 / 24
The service port has IP address of 128.88.1.10
The Cisco 1240 AP on the remote LAN is picking up a IP address via DHCP (from a remote DHCP server) OK and can route to both the aforementioned VLANs 20 and 11.
Issue/Question 1
I can ping the management interface locally on the 6509 and also remotely from the AP so all looks OK there however I cannot ping the AP-manager locally or remotely.
Is this expected behaviour? I would expect that if I can ping one I should be able to ping the other or is the AP-manager interface not routed and only used in some way to create the LWAPP tunnel>
Issue/Question 2
As previously stated the AP is picking up and IP address but it is not being passed the Option 43 parameter from the DHCP server (not yet ruled out the DHCP server as the cause of this). Due to this I have amended the DNS entry of the management interface (10.1.1.10) to CISCO-LWAPP-CONTROLLER as a last resort. With a console on the AP I can see that the AP tries to join by the "%LWAPP-5-CHANGED: LWAPP changed state to JOIN" output but then get;
LWAPP_CLIENT_ERROR_DEBUG: spamHandleJoinTimer: Did not recieve the Join response
LWAPP_CLIENT_ERROR_DEBUG: No more AP manager IP addresses remain.
Is this related to the fact that I cannot see the AP-Manager interface on the network?
Issue/Question 3
I have chosen to hard code the IP address of the Service port rather than leave it to DHCP. I am more comfortable having static addresses for management. However, there is no option for a default gateway for the service port.... If I try to get round this by applying a static route via the CLI on the WiSM controller to point traffic out via 128.88.1.1 on VLAN 11 this seemingly overrides all routing on the controller and causes my management interface (10.1.1.10) to fall off the network. Is the routing table applied "en masse" to the Controller? If so this surely means that to use the Service Port you have to be on the local LAN segement?!?!
Thanks for reading my ramble and heres hoping you can shed some light on my "niggles" !

Hi
I am having exactly the same problem.
Getting the same error message "No more AP manager IP addresses remain."
I'm deploying 200 AP's that will connect to 2x WiSM (4 controllers) in 2 seperate C6k Chassis
(Controller 1a & 1b = wism 1, 2a & 2b = wism 2)
I have had 1 out of the first 5 AP's physically connected, come online and register with Controller 2b (btw: this was not the master controller, it should not have registed with 2b). All others fail with the same error message as above.
I have all Management and AP-Manager interfaces in the same vlan/subnet as my AP's.
I place a console cable onto the failed APs and see the AP cycle though the motions of trying to find the controllers, download new software code from a random controller, then it reboots, gets DHCP assigned, then get the "No more AP manager ip addresses remain" and then issues a "Reload requested by LWAPP CLIENT.
Then the AP does the whole cycle all over again.
Not sure why the AP's don't register with the controllers when they are all in the same vlan.
I have a couple of extra questions.
1. what address do you bind to the dns entry cisco-lwapp-controller.localdomain, is it the management address or AP-Manager address ?
I have bound it to the Management address for WiSM 1a.
Also I have 4x controllers (2x WiSMs, 2 controllers per WiSM). Do I just bind controller 1a's address or do I have to put 4x DNS entries into my DNS server for all my controllers?
2. DHCP option 43, Do I place all 4x management ip addresses in the option or do I put in the AP-Manager Ip address?
I followed this guide but was still a little unsure http://www.cisco.com/en/US/products/hw/wireless/ps430/prod_technical_reference09186a00804fc3dc.html#wp125304
2. This final question is more around Dynamic Interfaces for my 4 controllers once I get the AP's resisted,
Do I have to set up a dynamic interface ip address on every controller?
e.g.
Ssid = data, VLAN=10, VLAN10=10.0.0.0/24, I will bind AP's 1-8 to VLan group 10.
Do I have to setup 1 dynamic interfaces per controller in the 10.0.0.0 subnet, taking up 4 addresses ?
And if I only have to set up 1 or 2 dynamic interface, how does this work if the controller fails?
Cheers

I'm trying to re-activate my software because of "repair" issues and don't know what to put for "request code"

I'm trying to re-activate my software because of "repair" issues. I have had it for 6 years and when I logged in today, it suddenly said that I needed to re-activate within 5 days. It won't allow me to do it online due to an error so it said that I needed to call and activate, but then when I called it said to go online to adobe/go/activate, which I did and have entered my serial number, but it also wants a request code and I don't know what to put there. Please help???

The request code is something that PS generates when you ask it to do the Phone activation, right? Isn't there a choice on PS when you try to activate that is to not do it online and to use a phone call and there is also a button to press to generate a request code. I don't have any way to try this myself, anymore, but I seem to remember something like that happening long ago.

Late 2013 13" MBPr unresponsive (not keyboard/mouse issue)

Hi all,
I am running a 2013 13"MBPr with 1TB SSD, 16GB RAM and 2.8i7.
I have updated the firmware to fix the keyboard/mouse issue.
My problem is the computer hanging or unresposive when using other programs.
I thought this was a problem with Chrome which I use for browsing as I had a simialr issue with my 2010 MBP 15".
But yesterday it hung in Mail.
Apple Diagnostics was fine.
I have tried uninstall and reinstall of Chrome. I run a few extensions but have reduced these as much as possible. Only use Adblocker, 1password, Papers and Quidco apps.
I will try to reinstall mavericks and see how it goes. Hopefully I get some luck.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks

Thanks Clinton,
Well It came with mavericks and I will reinstall tonight to see if it helps.
Called apple today and they suggested a reinstall.
In the mean time I have put a refund order thorugh for this computer and reorded it. So I guess this will rule out hardware issues. The only issue is the same spec computer is only expecting delviery between 9th to 16th December!!!
So may be without a computer for a while.
Happy to read that you suggest only perfection as this is what I expect.
Cheers

Boot up/Keyboard/DVD Drive Issues & Questions

I thought I'd try this before giving up completely on this iMac. It's a 20" Early 2006 iMac that will not boot past the gray screen, Apple icon and rotating circle.
Here's the challenge - this iMac also does not recognize keyboard input from an Apple keyboard but will respond to an old Dell USB keyboard.
Questions
First the installation (retail Tiger) DVD is not recognized when I hold the Option (alt) key down while booting, only the hard drive is listed. Does this mean that the DVD drive is not functioning?
I managed to reset SMC which did nothing to get the DVD drive recognized and now the fans are spinning full speed as well as the computer not booting.
I would love to try resetting PRAM, how does one do that without a "Command" key? I should mention that I replaced the battery when I pulled the hard drive out to rescue the data on it. Would that have reset PRAM?
Is it possible to boot directly from an external USB CD/DVD drive, and thus be able to use Disk Utilities to attempt a repair or reinstall?
Any assistance is much appreciated!
Peace,
Gail
Message was edited by: Gail - Added more info

Kappy wrote:
Could mean the optical drive is malfunctioning or that you have a defective disc. Try cleaning the disc on both surfaces as well as checking for scratches or defects.
Both the retail Tiger disc and the original OS X Installer Disc One are in perfect condition (at least to the naked eye). Neither will boot from the drive.
How to run hardware diagnostics for an Intel Mac
Boot from your original OS X Installer Disc One that came with your computer. After the chime press and hold down the "D" key until the diagnostic screen appears. Run the extended tests for a minimum of two or three hours. If any error messages appear note them down as you will need to report them to the service tech when you take the computer in for repair.
Some "common" error indicators:
SNS - sensor error
MEM - memory error
HDD - hard disk drive error
MOT - fan error
I would very much like to do this but can't get the discs to boot from the DVD drive.
In order to reset the PRAM you need to restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND-OPTION-P-R keys until you hear three additional chimes. See Reset PRAM and NVRAM.
I do not have a COMMAND key on the only keyboard I have on hand that works on this iMac. What would be another key combination or an equivalent for a non-Apple keyboard?
Is it possible to boot directly from an external USB CD/DVD drive, and thus be able to use Disk Utilities to attempt a repair or reinstall?
Yes, you can boot from a USB or FireWire external hard drive or optical drive.
This is the route I will probably take since apparently the optical drive is toast.
Thanks for the reply, I appreciate the assistance!
Peace,
Gail

Another keyboarding issue question

Hello everyone. I have had my macbook pro for a little over a year now and have had no problems with it until now. Today I was on the internet and realized that the click function on my track pad doesn't work (the function I mean is actually tapping the track pad, not pressing the long click button on the bottom). After i find this out, I also realize that my b button doesn't work. So i try typing some things in and along with the text I type, my text is full of b's making it seem like my b button is stuck, but i didn't even press the b button. Just recently the same thing happened with the v button. This problem is off and on and any help is greatly appreciated

Welcome to Apple Discussions!
The first thing to look at is your battery--is it bulging? A bulging battery can press on the MBP from below and cause the sorts of problems you are having. Bulging batteries are a known issue, and if you have one, you can get a free replacement from Apple.
Good luck!

Disk Repair Issue on iMac G4 Flat-Panel

A few months back, I started up my computer and received the endless loading pinwheel, with no progress since. After visiting this site and getting some info, I was able to discover I had a number of catalog and directory issues which I was told could really only be resolved by purchasing Disk Warrior.
I bought the program and booted it up from CD. It took awhile, but finally it told me it was able to repair the issues it found. I got to the screen that would allow me to Graph or Rebuild the drive. At this point, it told me the disk did not appear on the desktop. I couldn't select any options and I was stuck. So, at that point I let it run for a couple of days and nothing.
From there, I ran TechTool Pro from my Apple Care CD, I ran the Hardware Test CD, and I ran Disk Utility. All stated that there were no physical issues with my drive.
I tried DW again. I can load from CD, agree to the license, and just as it starts the process of "Scanning for disks..." it COMPLETELY freezes, stationary beachball and all.
I've spoken with the DW people and they have concluded that the hard drive probably has physical issues in addition to the directory issues. But, I have run 3 different utilities that all say its fine, and I didn't have any physical issues prior to purchasing Disk Warrior. The only alternative they have given me is to boot from an alternate startup disk (I have no firewire capabilities or external drive) or in target disk mode (again, I don't have another Mac lying around).
So now I am stuck with this new program I can't use. I can't boot the computer normally because of the issues I had which led me to purchase DW. When I try to reinstall the OS, I don't have a disk available to load it to (only the CD from the install disk shows up).
Any thoughts? I swear I have tried everything!

Thanks, but it looks like I have a few more hurdles to overcome before ugrading
As suggested by the Mac Tech from the store, I was able to successfully reinstall OSX on the drive that he magically partitioned and got working for me. I had no issues there.
After the install, I ran Disk Warrior from the CD and inspected/repaired my directory. I got a clean report on the repair. I also ran the hardware test from DW and it stated that my HD was functioning properly. Even the S.M.A.R.T. diagnostic said it was fine. To be safe, I also checked the files and folders to make sure there were no issues there. So essentially I ran all the tests that DW offers and everything came back fine.
However, when I boot up normally, I still get the flashing Finder/Question Mark folder icon that continues forever and never boots. I've searched the forums and tried all the options listed here: http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58042
Nothing has worked. The only other suggestions I have seen indicate hard drive failure and the need for replacement. But, I JUST ran the diagnostic on my hard drive and it came back without errors. Unless the diagnostics are wrong, I would assume my hard drive is fine.
The only thing I can thing of (again) is that my disk is not mounted on the desktop and its not being recognized at startup. It should be absolutely clean considering I reinstalled the OS and rebuilt the directory with DW.
Any ideas?

Absurd keyboard repair issue question

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