Advice needed on 7200 RPM

I plan on purchasing a PB to run intensive audio program 'Logic'. From past experience, I know the difference between a 7200 and 5400 drive can be HUGE. Needless to say, I'm excited to see that the new PB's can be configured with the 7200's. I'm wondering, though, if it's smarter financially to go with new 1.67 / 7200.. or get an older 1Ghz or 1.33 PB and upgrade to 7200 RPM drive. (Actually, can previous generation PB's be upgraded to 7200 RPM hard drives.. or is this only possible on the current new line of PB's?)
I've been told that the difference in performance between the 1Ghz and 1.67 models are minimal. Can anyone offer advice?
Thanks in advance!

Your best bet for this machine would be either a Hitachi 7K100 or a Seagate 7200.1.
Barefeats recently tested these drives against each other. The results of those tests are here:
http://www.barefeats.com/hard61.html
Good luck.
Tuttle

Similar Messages

FCPX external hard drive advice needed

I have on order the following iMac which will be used for video editing with FCPX.
3.4GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i7
16GB 1600MHz DDR3 SDRAM-2X8GB (upping to 32mb when it arrives)
3TB Fusion Drive
NVIDIAGeFrc GTX 680MX 2G GDDR5
I'm coming from an older Mac Pro with internal hard drives, so I need some advice from the video editing experts on a quality external hard drive for the new iMac. Any help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

You've waited a long time...
Here's the deal: Thunderbolt has a bandwidth of 10Gb/s... TB2 a bandwidth of 20Gb/s. The G Raid uses 2 disk drives with 7200 RPM platters. These drives are the bottleneck and about the fastest transfers you can expect are in the 250MB/s range... I get that (and better) with a single SSD in a USB 3 enclosure. Three or more drives would get better transfer rates; you would need a larger enclosure.
You have to ask yourself: Do I want storage or do I want speed?
To make the best use of Thunderbolt speed, you can build your own RAID with an enclosure and buy the drives (matched) separately. A Thunderbolt enclosure with SSD drives will make the best use of the bandwidth provided by TB. You can find 4-bay enclosures and SSDs up to 960GB. You can expect transfer rates of over a gigabyte/second (I'm looking an an Akitio 4-bay enclosure with an advertised speed of 1375MB/s... [ customer reviews ] -- I am not affiliated with this product in any way... I think you'll get even more info here. )
Hope you find the info useful.

Internal hard drive for late 2003 DP G5... advice needed!

Hello,
I need to get additional storage for a G5 DP 1.8 that I use at work. I'm thinking of getting an internal hard drive rather than an external hard drive, mainly because of pricing - is that the better option? I need a minimum of 200Gb, preferably 300GB.
If I was to buy an external storage device, compatibility isn't much of a problem... however, as an internal hard drive would be purchased through the work account of the PC-based IT department, I want to make sure that I'm getting something that is Mac-friendly.
At present, between the IT guys and myself, we've settled on the Maxtor MaxLine III 300Gb Hard drive- 3.5"/ SATA-150 7 Pin Serial ATA/ 7200 Rpm/ 16 Mb Buffer. Would this work fine in a late 2003 G5 DP 1.8?
Or is there a strong argument for following the external route and purchasing something like the Smartdisk CrossFire 250GB FireWire/USB2 hard drive?
Any advice much appreciated! Thanks!

If you want performance, an interal drive ist best.
A PCI(-X) SATA controller with internal or external connectors is just as fast (and should work with any harddrive, unlike the built-in SATA controller). Firewire 400 is somewhat slower, and USB2 is far worse. Firewire 800 is pretty close to SATA.
Anyway, I believe the Maxtor you listed should work fine.
External is great for portability, too keep an out-of-house backup for example.
-- Related stuff --
List of other drives I believe to work.
Another thread about SATA drive compatibility
Please double check compatibility - if in doubt - in the
xlr8yourmac: Drive compatibility database
Quad G5 Mac OS X (10.4.7) 4 GB ECC RAM, Raptor 150 GB, Seagate 750 GB, GeForce 7800 GT

Lacie 2TB Big Disk Extreme Firewire 800 firewire 400 hi-speed usb2 7200 rpm sku 301201u knocked

I have a Lacie 2TB Big Disk Extreme + Firewire 800 firewire 400 hi-speed usb2 7200 rpm sku 301201u , which I have been using with an emac ( 1ghz power pc 4 , macos 10.5.8 ) for past few years.
A couple of days ago The drive was hit rather hard on side while on and up , the computer hung as the computer was up on a mac os 10.5.8 partition on this drive . Computer was rebooted and comes up on internal drive, lacie drive just made beep and click sounds ( i am actually deaf and this was what I was told ) every couple of seconds. Attempt was made to boot on CD to use latest available disk utility ( Macos 10.5). Lacie still does not show up. 15-20 minutes into this, I powered lacie down. This is when I started noticing a burned circuitry smell.I powered lacie down and disconnected it at this point.
Most Folks just suggest data recovery which can cost as much as $3000 or more which I really don't have .
I figured I open and examine the internalsof drive . I did so. The circuitry smells
like burned near the point where power comes in and the death diode is located, otherwise circuitry looks fine. One of the two drives , when taken out did not have a burnt smell and the other had a burnt smell towards the center but it dissipated in about an hour after it was taken out. There also was one loose screw inside drives chasing which ended up being one of the 4 screws that holds the disk drive's circuitry. I dont know but I don't think this could have shorted anything out but even though slim it is possible that such happened.
While I have Three DC voltmeters, I could not find the one that would accurately measure the voltage on the external power suppy to see if the output voltage on the 4 pins is accurate . I am still looking for the one meter that can do this.
I figured if I can find the exact drive in like new condition and swap the disks, if the disks are not damaged and if the culprit is actually burnt circuitry, then the drives should come up as they were as though nothing had happened.
I talked to a friend that suggested getting other cases and swapping disks but I guess that is not possible because the two disks are raided? ( raid 0 ) . I am also not even sure if the drives are raided the way they were put into use ( only through firewire 400) as the documentation suggests that only firewire 800 denotes use of built in raid0 but I am not sure. So again assumption is made that the drives are raided .
I contacted dealership of the drive which again suggest that Unfortunately it is not possible to obtain another drive like this one because it has been obsolete and out of manufacture for a long time. It is also a risky idea because if the problem is not with the drive enclosure hardware, there is a genuine risk of making the recovery process more difficult, or impossible.
This though does not follow logically. I have been able to see the exact drive with the same sku number offered as new or excellent condition more than 1/2 dozen times in the past few weeks so I guess drive can be acquired and tested before any such swap. If drives are not the culprit , I figure after a swap with a new enclosure and everything other than drives, the thing should not even be noticed and all should work as they did before the accident. If the drives are the cause , then the thing has been on 1/2 hour after the accident so the swap should not do any more damage or cause future recovery attempts any more issues than already might be there.
Any sound advice is greatly appreciated.

I tried the two good disks in the main chasis with new cables and power supply , and I could not get them to come on or show.
I put the good disks back in the second chasis with new cable and power suppy and it again shows ( prompts telling you that it sees a readable MAc OS disk and asks if you want to Initialize it ).
I put the first set together again with new cable and power supply and the light does not come on anymore . being hearing impaired , i put my head on the drive and hear this clicking sound every one or two seconds. The fan operates . The drive does not show when rebooting and it does not show on the disk utility. The drive does not smoke but smell of burned mica ( circuitry ) is still in my throat after a couple of hours.
From what I have learned the possibility exists that each drive is calibrated and the calibration is added to the control board , So like chances are that even if the two original drives are good and connected properly and everything else is good, they might and probably just wont work with a control board of another even exact drive. There are three tables / charts marked on each drive and specific locations marked on each chart which differ between drives . These I think are from calibrating the drives.
So I guess its data recovery...
Lacie Data Recovery wants $600 ( $300 x 2 drives ) if they recover data without need for a clean room , $3000 ( $1500 x 2 drives ) if there is need for clean room. If they don't recover , you dont pay , if they recover and you do not want to pay, then they just send you the damaged disk ( or perhaps keep it , or smash it then return it to you) .
There are many other data recovery services so I guess a few days to sift through them but I guess the maker reference should be the best way ( I think its actually a sub-company that lacie forwards data recovery to.
Too many factors are involved. One that will such be a secure thing to do or 6 months later you find out that someone opened 10 accounts under your name , or emptied your bank account ( thats actually not a problem because there is almost never any money in my bank account) . So security is a concern. I have encountered individuals that make it their business stealing peoples stuff from their disks. Once I even had one Tech guy which was refered to solve a problem I had , copying disks contents right in front of me for absolutely no reason. So I ask him what are you doing, and he says , I am copying everything just to make sure they are safe ( : ) )
Then there is the dalai lama , everything happens for a reason scenario. In which case I guess I have to consider the whole thing as Good Omen. and just forget about it and go on with my life ( maybe I go work in Mc Donalds : ) )
The bottom line is I can't believe that I am such an idiot not to have a proper backup system in place .
Thank you for the links, I will check them out.

To buy or not to buy CUDA-Card while editing 1080p vs 720p. Advice needed!

Hello folks,
I am relatively new to editing, not so much to computers and technologies. I was happily editing some GoPro 720p footage. Nearly with no issues, specifically I can fly through the previews at up to 3x fast-forward. 4x brings up stuttering.
Now as a contrast I started editing 1080p and it's a pain in the *ss. Above 2x (that is 3x and 4x) the stuttering while previewing footage in Premiere Pro CS6 starts.
I've read the FAQs (specifically about optimization, CUDA, multi-core, and so on). I have a Quadcore Q9550, 8 GB RAM, SSD main for the OS, secondary SATA 7200 RPM and a third SATA disk. When I look at the task manager and I do the 3x fast-forward in 1080p (also in 720p for the case, no obvious differences actually) I cannot see any "bottleneck" in my hardware. The HDD/SSD drives are nearly not working, the CPU is about 50% and the RAM is also about 50% of usage.
So I don't understand why this is happening? Do I actually need a CUDA graphics card? (Got a 9600 GT with 512MB RAM) Shouldn't the REST of the PCs hardware be completely "stressed" before I need to add a CUDA card to the system? Why doesn't it use the full CPU quadcore for the preview?
I also have checked and re-checked the correct sequence settings, and have done it manually and also the "quick way" buy using "Make new sequence from clip". Results where the same.
I appreciate your advice.
Thanks in advance,
marknekk

When I look at the task manager and I do the 3x fast-forward in 1080p (also in 720p for the case, no obvious differences actually) I cannot see any "bottleneck" in my hardware. The HDD/SSD drives are nearly not working, the CPU is about 50% and the RAM is also about 50% of usage.
Unlike Win8, Win7 Task Manager won't tell you much about disk I/O - Resource Monitor is a better tool for that.
Windows 8 Task Manager:
Note "active time", "average response time". Win8 Task Manager is awesome.
Windows 7/8 Resource Monitor:
You still get "active time" (blue graph), giving you an idea of utilization but not "response time".
Have you tried doing a 3x playback test with the SSD you have? Put a video clip there temporarily, and do a 3x playback on it, see if the behavior is the same.
Also, tried a 3x playback at 1/4th or 1/8th of resolution?

Advice needed - optical bay caddy and HDD for T530

Since I rarely use my optical drive and frequently back up files to an external hard drive, I'd like to put a HDD in the optical bay and just swap it out for the DVD player whenever that is needed.
My T530 (i5-3210M Win7HP) has a 256GB Crucial mSSD for the boot drive and programs; the original 500GB/7200 rpm in the drive bay has data files, Outlook and Quicken files, music, photos and documents.
For the optical bay HDD 500 GB would be plenty, but the 750 GB is only about $10 more, so why not? (I'd probably put the 750 in the drive bay and make it the data drive, with the 500 in the optical bay for a back up drive... and this is about convenience more than need.)
Best I can tell the optical drive supports SATA 6GB/sec but most of the 2.5" 750GBx7200 rpm drives are SATA 3GB/sec. (On the other hand, the Hitachi MK5061GSY 500GBx7200 that came in my T530 appears to be 'only' SATA II, and most forum posters suggest there's not a noticable difference.)
Of the 750 GB drives it seems the Seagate Momentus ($82) and Western Digital Scorpio Black ($78) would be the top two choices. I think they're both 9.5mm and would fit. Some reviews indicate the Western Digital is quieter.
The caddy is more problematic, as there are so many choices, and many appear to be poorly-fitting Chinese knockoffs. I'm not inclined to pay $70 for the Lenovo, when the others are in the $10-15 range, but I do want one that fits well and works well and lasts. (And is at least SATA 3GB/sec.) I can't tell much from the prices or pictures, and there's contradicting information in the 'product reviews.'
So I need a 12.7mm optical bay (Ultrabay) caddy for a 9.5mm HDD that fits well without gaps, matches the T530 case, and supports at least SATA 3GB/sec.
Will I need the rubber 'bumpers' or is that just for SSD drives? If I need them, do they come with the caddy or drive? If not, what do I get and where?
Does either the Seagate or Western Digital offer an advantage in function or reliability?
Please correct anything that I've mistated or misunderstood. Thank you for your advice and recommendations.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

How the four screws work.
HD's and SSD's usually have four threaded holes on the bottom and also two threaded holes on each long side. The video you may have seen with the screws going through holes in the bottom of the caddy into the threaded bottom holes of the HD is a video of the $45 Newmodus caddy. That's how they affix the drive to the caddy.
The Chinese caddy I linked uses the screws in a different way, and it is actually pictured in the top right illustration on the caddy.
While the drive is out of the caddy, you just thread the screws (through nothing) into the side holes on the drives. So, the drive now has two little protruding screw heads on each side. The only purpose is to create those four slight protrusions - two on each side.
Then you insert the drive into the caddy by sliding from one end. The thing on the bottom of the caddy picture is like a little door that folds up and down. You lift up the door and slide the drive into the other end. The protruding screw heads slide under little rail protuberances that are molded inside the sides of the caddy. When you have slid the drive all the way forward into the electrical connectors, you then snap down the door behind it. The door prevents the drive from moving forward or back. The screw heads wedged under the rails prevent the drive from moving up or down. You can do the entire operation in 5 seconds.
Ny-compu-tek seems to have the same caddy listed under various titles and prices, including one that specifically says T530. I think that's just a marketing gimmick, as the T530 takes the same caddy as the T520. Anyway the one I linked is the least expensive from that source and fits perfectly.
It was also shipped out in one day with a tracking number.

Hard Drive Upgrade from 5400 to 7200 RPM

Well my logic board died and i have gotten that replaced and now i need to upgrade my hard drive from 5400 to 7200 rpm. I just dont know how to replace it. I have the memory upgraded so im good there just need help upgrading the drive
So how would i replace it?
Please help
thanks
and if there are any websites that could help me upgrade my HD

It is easy....
http://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook-Core-2-Duo-Hard-Drive-Replacement/514/1

How do I know if a core I5 and 5400 rpm drive is ok for me or if I should get a core I7, 7200 rpm dr

Buying a new laptop. My old Dell Inspiron is giving up the ghost.
How do I know if a core I5, 5400 rpm drive is good enough for me or if I should get a core I7, 7200 rpm drive laptop? Also can I get an I5 with 7200 rpm or an I7 with 5400 rpm? Need some recommendations. I am not a computer expert so need some good explanation on what to get and why? I don't do video games on the laptop. Mainly use it for mail, Excel, word, internet searches, internet videos, etc.
This question was solved.
View Solution.

I actually have the Envy Ultrabook is why I asked. HP provided me one for a testing unit so we here on the Forum could keep abreast of their latest offerings. The mSSD accel cache is amazing. It gives ultrafast boot times and hard drive access. It does make the laptop hard to work with for tekkies, but for most users who will not try to monkey around with the OS, like dual boot with Linux or reload with a clean install of your own Windows 7 and other similar stuff it is a great performer...no need for a 7200 rpm drive.

Portable external raid - should I get 5400 or 7200 rpm?

Hi,
I'm in need of a portable external raid 1 for live data protection. I do illustration work in photoshop and I use bridge to access and view files and reference. I would like to write all my files and read all my files from an external raid 1 and I am wondering if I should get a 5400 or 7200 rpm setup.
My concern is read and write speeds.
My portable setup is a mbp 2.16 intel core duo. I'm thinking of getting the g raid mini 2.
Thanks in advance

Thanks for the response.
To clarify my question though -
1. I'm wondering if either will be fast enough to work off of - I'm planning on keeping the internal drive clean and all data would reside on the raid(so no incremental backups will be needed).
2. will the difference between 5400 and 7200 be worth the difference in price - ie. lag time or a noticeable speed difference.
Thanks

Compatibility of Seagate 750 GB, Momentus XT 2.5", 7200 RPM

Dear Experts
I have a question. I own mid 2009 macbook pro (350 GB HDD), 2.66 GHz, core 2 duo. I wish to change HDD (its failing as per SMART status) to Seagate 750 GB, Momentus XT 2.5", 7200 RPM. Can I use this with my MBP?
Any advice/alternatives are highly appreciated.

Here a link to that thread.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3857094
You might as well replace the cable while you inside the system. Search through that thread for the updated part number to buy. It is available from aftermarket resellers. But it's not cheap.

5400 ROM & 7200 RPM HD's

I hope this is the right place to post this.
I have a 250GB 5400 RPM HD in my Macbook Pro. I want to replace it with the biggest HD I can find. I think I will get a 500GB or a 400GB @ 7200RPM. What I was wondering is if you guys think that the 7200RPM drive will run warmer than my 5400 drive? I need more space, please give me some suggestions?

The largest drive you can actually fit in your MBP is the Samsung 500 GB Spinpoint. You will also need to know how to disassemble the computer and you will need a few specialized tools. User replacement of the drive is not authorized or approved by Apple, so if you have any warranty remaining that warranty will be void with respect to any consequential damage caused by replacing the drive. To prevent that you would have to arrange for the work to be done by an authorized Apple technician or by your local Apple service center.
7200 RPM drives are not noticeably warmer than 5400 RPM drives in the same size class because they both use nearly the same amount of power and, thus, dissipate about the same amount of heat.

7200 rpm vs 5400

hello,
after 5 years of good work, my 100/7200 rpm HD went dead and the store has a 160/5400 HD to offer, while the 100/7200 has to be ordered to apple (1 more day). i do not exactly realize the performance difference between the 2s. i mostly use word processor, while sometime i use iphoto and aperture for my digital pictures and other time i run an audio editor software.
any advice and/or personal experience would be very welcome!

No one has manufactured 7200RPM ATA/IDE drives that will work in Powerbooks for at least two or three years now. New ones are almost impossible to find. I would be very surprised if you could obtain one from Apple, so I suggest that you ask whoever is offering to order it for ironclad confirmation that they really can get one. Otherwise you may end up waiting a long time, only to be told that it's not available after all.
Of the uses you mention, only the audio work might benefit significantly from a 7200RPM drive. If I were you, I'd install a large (up to 320GB) 5400RPM drive.

5400 / 7200 RPM. How To Check That?

hi guys.
the box with a brand new external usb drive i am planning to purchase from my local computer store doesn't say whether it's as fast as 5400 or 7200 rpm.
how do i normally check that parameter through my computer? i tried checking that on my current usb drive with system profiler, but can't see such a section anywhere!

Aram Rian wrote:
thanks for the reply.
hmm, well i still need to somehow make sure the rotation speed of the usb hard drive i am going to purchase is 7200 rpm
I don't think it really matters from a practical point of view. The maximum sustained transfer speeds you can get out of Hi-Speed USB (USB2) is about 30-35 MB/sec. This is well under the speeds that most current 5400 RPM notebook drives are capable of. For example, a Hitachi Travelstar 5K320 drive is capable of up to 729 Mbit/sec, which is higher than 90 MB/sec.

Is 7200 RPM HDD a problem for the MAc Mini?

I need to replace my Mac-mini HDD. I purchased a Travelstar 500Gb Drive.
It is 7200 RPM.
Will I have any problems? I understand most mac mini 2.26Ghz HDDs are 5200 RPMs.

I put one of those into my 2010 Mac Mini almost a year ago and it kicks butt on the 5400 RPM HDD.

SMART status failing on a WD Scorpio Black WD3200BEKT 320GB 7200 RPM

I just recently purchased a Western Digital Scorpio Black WD3200BEKT 320GB 7200 RPM drive to put in my 1st Gen MacBook Pro. Ever since installing the drive, I've had random beach balls happen usually when there is a fair amount of disk I/O.
Thinking the drive was bad, I sent it back and got another one. I am still seeing the same frequent beach balls requiring a hard restart to get the system to be responsive again.
Checking the System Profiler, I see that the drive is failing SMART status. I also checked the kernel logs and am getting I/O errors on the drive at the point when the system beach balls.
I am pretty certain it isn't the drive. I'm at a loss for what to try next. Is this drive not compatible with my SATA interface. Any suggestions or comments?
Below are some of my pertinent machine information from System Profiler:
Model Name: MacBook Pro 15"
Model Identifier: MacBookPro1,1
Processor Name: Intel Core Duo
Processor Speed: 1.83 GHz
Number Of Processors: 1
Total Number Of Cores: 2
L2 Cache: 2 MB
Memory: 2 GB
Bus Speed: 667 MHz
Boot ROM Version: MBP11.0055.B08
SMC Version (system): 1.2f10
Sudden Motion Sensor:
State: Enabled
Below is the Serial-ATA information from the System Profiler:
Intel ICH7-M AHCI:
Vendor: Intel
Product: ICH7-M AHCI
Speed: 1.5 Gigabit
Description: AHCI Version 1.10 Supported
WDC WD3200BEKT-60F3T1:
Capacity: 298.09 GB
Model: WDC WD3200BEKT-60F3T1
Revision: 12.01A12
Native Command Queuing: Yes
Queue Depth: 32
Removable Media: No
Detachable Drive: No
BSD Name: disk0
Mac OS 9 Drivers: No
Partition Map Type: GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status: Failing
Volumes:
Macintosh HD:
Capacity: 297.77 GB
Available: 153.19 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Journaled HFS+
BSD Name: disk0s2
Mount Point: /
I also ran this to check the current speed of the SATA interface since the drive is a SATA II drive with a 3.0gb/s burst.
$ sudo ioreg -l | grep 'Interconnect"="SATA"'
| | | | "Protocol Characteristics" = {"Physical Interconnect"="SATA","Physical Interconnect Location"="Internal/External"}
| | | | "Protocol Characteristics" = {"Physical Interconnect"="SATA","AHCI Port Number"=0,"Physical Interconnect Location"="Internal","Port Speed"="1.5 Gigabit$
| | | | "Protocol Characteristics" = {"Physical Interconnect"="SATA","Physical Interconnect Location"="Internal"}
The above shows that the interface is running at 1.5gb/s SATA I which is what I excepted on this system.
Thanks!
Dustin

Sounds like you have things well sorted out.
Despite that fact that you have had two consecutive HDDs with defects does not, necessarily, mean that all of those drive are defective. However, you are fortunate that you were able to get you money back. Seagate makes good drives, as does WD, and hopefully you have paid your dues and you will have no more incidents.
Do post back should you run into stuff and need to bounce ideas off someone else.
Good luck.
cornelius
I will certainly report back on my luck with Seagate.
You are correct that the failure of two consecutive drives does not mean the whole line is faulty. The drive I was replacing in the MacBook Pro was actually a Western Digital Scopio as well (just not a Blue or Black) and it has performed flawlessly. It's the drive I have reinstalled twice now while I waited for the replacement drive to be shipped.
Another interesting anecdote is that I searched the NewEgg customer comments for reports of SMART errors on the Western Digital Scorpio Black drive I had ordered and sure enough, there were quite a few postings where people had tried multiple times to get a good drive.
It's just one of those things that you start to question, especially with older hardware like I am using (1st Gen MacBook Pro) that maybe backwards compatible quirks between SATA 1 and SATA 2 are the real problem not the drive itself. I'm still not 100% convinced that the drives were the true culprit. Hard to say for sure.
Not to mention all the troubles I've been reading about with 3rd party drives and the recent 1.7 EFI update which has caused similar errors as to what I was seeing with these drives. The first drive I had didn't throw any SMART errors, or at least I didn't notice them.
I'm gonna order the Seagate Momentus 7200.4 ST9320423AS 320GB 7200 RPM 2.5" SATA 3.0Gb/s and see what happens. I'll report back my findings in another thread so that people who search for the Seagate drive will have a more related thread to read.
Dustin

Advice needed on 7200 RPM

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