AWN and black bar (nevermind, pekwm's fault)

edit: ok, so I tested it with openbox and it works fine, so I guess the problem is pekwm. Apparently, AWN 0.4 won't need compositing anymore, so it won't be a problem.
When I run avant-window-navigator, a black bar appears at the bottom of the screen. I've already made a search and all the results I found are about missing composition, but I've already enabled composition in my xorg.conf and I'm also running xcompmgr.
Everything is up to date, my video card is an Intel GMA965 and my window manager is pekWM and I've tried using both AWN from repositories as the bzr version from AUR. I don't know why it isn't working.
My xorg.conf:
Section "ServerLayout"
Identifier "Xorg Configured"
Screen "LVDS"
EndSection
Section "Module"
Load "dri"
Load "glx"
EndSection
Section "Device"
Identifier "Intel GM965"
Driver "intel"
EndSection
Section "Screen"
Identifier "LVDS"
Device "Intel GM965"
DefaultColorDepth 24
SubSection "Display"
Depth 24
Modes "1280x800"
Virtual 2048 2048
EndSubSection
EndSection
Section "DRI"
Mode 0666
EndSection
Section "Extensions"
Option "Composite" "Enable"
EndSection
Last edited by andre.ramaciotti (2009-06-21 01:44:20)

Send it in to Apple Service. Sounds like you've got a defective screen. They should replace it under warranty. If they try to charge you for something, remind them that it is still under warranty and you want them to repair a materials defect.
Doc

Similar Messages

URXVT and black bar graphics glitch. *annoying*

I have a problem, I'm using xmonad (display with no borders), and running "urxvt +sb -tr -fg green -bg black -sh 30" gives me a black bar glitch at the bottom and right hand side of the urxvt window seen at
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/4796/scrotshot.png
Anyone know how to get rid of this black bar? It seems to be related to the -bg color since it changes to the bg color every time I change the value for -bg.
It seems that the borders get fixed when I switch to a different desktop (modkey + number of desktop) and back again to the same desktop.
By fix, I mean the borders are the same as the background, but now when I move the window, the same spots take the color of the background that was previously on them to the new spots they are moved to. If this is confusing, I'll gladly add some screenshots to illustrate what I mean.
This is what I'm using to launch urxvt to get the effect: "urxvt -tr +sb -fg green -bg black -sh 25"
Thanks for taking the time.
Last edited by tomd123 (2009-05-12 17:35:42)

*bump*
edit:
*bump*
Last edited by tomd123 (2009-05-12 17:31:24)

URXVT and black bar graphics glitch.

I have a problem, I'm using xmonad (display with no borders), and running "urxvt +sb -tr -fg green -bg black -sh 30" gives me a black bar glitch at the bottom and right hand side of the urxvt window seen at
http://img102.imageshack.us/img102/4796/scrotshot.png
Anyone know how to get rid of this black bar? It seems to be related to the -bg color since it changes to the bg color every time I change the value for -bg. Thanks for taking the time.
EDIT:
It seems that the borders get fixed when I switch to a different desktop (modkey + number of desktop) and back again to the same desktop.
By fix, I mean the borders are the same as the background, but now when I move the window, the same spots take the color of the background that was previously on them to the new spots they are moved to. If this is confusing, I'll gladly add some screenshots to illustrate what I mean.
EDIT:
This is what I'm using to launch urxvt to get the effect: "urxvt -tr +sb -fg green -bg black -sh 25"
Last edited by tomd123 (2009-05-10 00:56:02)

*bump*
edit:
*bump*
Last edited by tomd123 (2009-05-12 17:31:24)

Stumping You with Pulsing Dissolves and Black Bars

To start at the beginning...
I have been having problems with imported footage recently. I usually import footage from three sources. A Sony VX2100, A little Canon ZR 200 and Quicktime output from Photo to Movie (I use this software to animate still photos - very good).
In the pasts few weeks all of the footage I import has thin black bars on either side of the frame. (If we assume that the actual size is 720x480 the "image" might be 700x420...resulting in these these black bars being consistantly there regardless of where I am importing from...and on the footage I import from the Canon there is a thin black bar accross the bottom of the frame as well!
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I did all of this and no joy... the black bars are still there after I import it into FCP (there are no black bars in the original source material. It is at true dimensions, so the problem lies in FCP).
While I have been trying to figure this out I did a simple workaround by blowing the footage up 103% which fills the 720x480 frame. For TV I would not care because the evil bars would be out of TV, but for internet stuff I (obviously) want full frame. The problem when I do this is that when I insert a dissolve between two segments that have been resized (at 103%) the image pulses after the transition. It appears that the stock dissolves only work with footage that is at 100% size...the image pulses back to the 103% size the instant the dissove is complete. Baffling.
So here is where I am. I can't figure what the deal is with FCP importing footage that is full frame out of the camera or software and getting these black bars...and If try to do a workaround and blow the footage up I get this pulsing after the transitions. The footage is fine if I do manual cross dissolves using the opacity levels but who has the time do do that?
Any suggestion kids?...this is really annoying.
MS

Thanks but that was one of the first (and most obvious) things I tried. That is the thing that is baffling is look liike a window size image but it is not. The black bars are in the image and they occur somewhere in the importing process.
The only thing I can think of is it is a settings issue as I did not have this problem a couple of months ago.
Any other thoughts?
MP

How to render in Final Cut Express without widescreen and black bars?

Hi there,
I have been having problems when importing my xbox 360 gameplay into FCE, when it is imported it says it needs to be "rendered" when I complete the render the gameplay turns into widescreen with black bars on top and bottom.
Watch this video on youtube and you can see what I mean
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0Wi0hDq-iU
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Do you mean size format and time length? If not please explain for me.
If so, the original file size, length and format that is going into Steamclip is 200mb, is an mp4 and goes for 2:12 minutes.
Then after I convert this file it becomes a mov file and the size is increased to 1.02 GB does this seem like I am doing this right in MPEG Streamclip?
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Lines and Black bar on iMac

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Thanks!

Wow. that is odd looking.
In your take-apart and rebuild work, did you have to move anything that has to do with the display, it's associated connecting cables, etc?
Just a guess, but maybe something's been left loose? Something video related?
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Sorry I'm no help here. Was kinda hoping for a shot of something I'd seen before, but that shot is unique to me.

[X230] Screen issues (black bars)

Hi,
I've got a X230 with an IPS screen since 1,5 years, and I currently have some issues with it.
Sometimes, the bottom left of the screen blink and black bars appears, along with some square brightness shapes.
I'm pretty bad to description, so here an album of the problem : http://imgur.com/a/qIwj5#0 (it's more clear if you zoom).
Link to picture
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Link to picture
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Does someone has already have this kind of problems ?
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Moderator note; picture(s) totalling >50K converted to link(s) Forum Rules
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Hi,
Connect the system to an external monitor and check if it displays correctly. If it does, probably your LCD panel/invertor/cable had gone faulty. If it comes out the same way on the external monitor, you're looking at motherboard repair/replacement.
Click here to open a link where you can select the country and get the exact contact support number. I’m sure they will be a great help.
Best regards,
Mithun.
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[Solved] On fullscreen flash videos (like on YouTube) there is a black bar on the right side of the screen, and I must click slightly to the right of onscreen buttons instead of directly on them while this is happening.

On fullscreen flash videos (like on YouTube) there is a black bar on the right side of the screen, and I must click slightly to the right of onscreen buttons instead of directly on them while this is happening. It's like I should click where they should be, not where they are. The exact same problem happens on Google Chrome, but not on Internet Explorer. It also happens on some games I installed like, "Crysis".

Nevermind, I solved the problem by downloading this:
http://www2.ati.com/DriVeRs/mobile/11-6_mobility_vista_win7_64_dd_ccc_ocl.exe

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I have DV5 1007ca running Vista Home Premium 32-bit.My computer seems to suddenly think my monitor is a different size. I have a 3-inch black bar down the right side of the screen and about a 1/4 inch black bar along the bottom. My windows are still fully functional and completely fill the portion of the screen that is active. There is no loss of image, it's just framed by the black bars. If I do a Print screen and paste it into a document, the black bars are not there. It's as if the computer thinks the screen is a different physical size. This situation is present all the time, even when starting up. This is what I have done so far: -adjusted screen resolution settings = no change-rolled back my display drivers = no change-re-updated my display drivers = no change-rolled back my BIOS = no change-re-updated my BIOS = no change-System recovery = no change I searched posts here and elsewhere but the results were inconclusive. A couple of posters reported a virtually identical problem and were told they needed to replace either their screens or their graphics cards. Unfortunately, none of those posters ever reported back so it was unclear whether or not the issue was resolved. I doubt it is the screen since screen problem symptoms usually involve bits of screen not working and parts of the display being lost. My screen seems to be working fine, it just thinks it's smaller than it is. The graphics card is highly suspect. What's funny is that a little while ago, I started up my computer without changing anything and all was well for about a week and then it went back to the same old issue. Any helpful advice would be appreciated. This issue is driving me nuts!

I found a real solution that is hardware related. I was given a laptop with this exact same problem for free since my friend thought it wasn't worth paying to repair a 3 year old laptop, and was dead for almost a year (I think they manufactured these in 2008, but HP has almost no specs or info about them, specially ours; DV5T-1100) I have the solution to this problem, and is a solution not found almost anywhere using Google, and HP support doesn't want to tell you, simply don't know, or would make them look bad. I was able to fix it myself by using a rework station (basically a dedicated hot air gun) that I used to "reflow" the graphics chipset's connection to the board (keep reading, because this method may vary on result details). This simply means that I opened the laptop, removed the copper heatsink connected to the fan to expose both the micro-processor, and the faulty graphics chipset, and started cutting soda cans, or thick tin foil to cover the areas AROUND the graphics chipset, and leave the graphics chipset exposed so that the really hot air would concentrate only on TOP of the graphics chipset. Then, I put the device on 220 degress, with the tip of the gun 2 inches over the chipset, and circled the gun around heating that sucker for 5 minutes, then I did a 3 minute rest to cool off, and a final 5 minutes reheat again. Luckily enough it WORKED!, and it has been working for almost 10 months with heavy use. HOWEVER... doing a "reflow" like this on a micro component isn't reallt a proper fix. Sure you may get lucky, and I read of instances where the fix lasted for years, but also just months. This is because the problem is the old solder that connects each "ball" point under the chip to the motherboard may have a micro ultra tiny imperfections and misconnections on a few or many of the connected points cause by a long period of overheat of the chip due to both, a very bad heatsink, and heatflow of heat inside the laptop, and also (and usually) really bad maintenance on the user's part by having a really dirty and dusty vents, overuse, and blocking the ventilation exhaust of the laptop itself over time. A proper fix of this chip issue is another process called "reballing", where they actually properly overheat that particular chipset so much using IR heat, and an expensive machine, to "loosen" the solder of all connections and remove the chip itself to both, clean the old solder on the chip, and the old solder left on the motherboard, and actually REPLACE all solder with new lead solder. However, this process has to be very precise (hence the machine), and it maybe costly, and there's also the fact that MANY scammers out there either never really do a true reballing, ans just do a reflow to scam you, or don't have the experience to do a proper reball of the chip. So whose at fault here? Uneducated users that neglect learning how to properly maintain a laptop off its main enemies (dust and heat) no matter how good the hardware heatsinks may be, or is it poor hardware design by the manufacturer, where other brands or even other families of series off the same brand have actually better noticeable hardware design than these DV series that are so notorious to overheat easier than others out there? Well, I don't know, but I do know that you should be VERY careful having these laptops repaired and be scammed, because hey! Even so called "refurbished" or even so called "brand new" entire motherboard out there on Ebay are just bad reflow jobs with little to no warranty on them on purpose, to only last a few months on purpose. So, watch out, and THINK! before spending money on a beat up poor donkey.

Hi, I downloaded Yosemite this evening. I downloaded o.k., it installed o.k. and then it restarted the Macbook and now it seems frozen. There is nothing but a grey screen, the apple logo and a bar that is half black

Hi, I downloaded Yosemite this evening. It downloaded fine, it installed fine and then it restarted the Macbook. Now it seems to be frozen. I have nothing but a grey screen with the apple logo and a bar that is half black and half grey. It's been like this for over an hour. Should I worry or is it still working at something? How do I fix this if it's not still working at installing something. Thank goodness for this poor old pc as backup.

Take each of these steps that you haven't already tried. Stop when the problem is resolved.
To restart an unresponsive computer, press and hold the power button for a few seconds until the power shuts off, then release, wait a few more seconds, and press it again briefly.
Step 1
The first step in dealing with a startup failure is to secure the data. If you want to preserve the contents of the startup drive, and you don't already have at least one current backup, you must try to back up now, before you do anything else. It may or may not be possible. If you don't care about the data that has changed since the last backup, you can skip this step.
There are several ways to back up a Mac that is unable to start. You need an external hard drive to hold the backup data.
a. Start up from the Recovery partition, or from a local Time Machine backup volume (option key at startup.) When the OS X Utilities screen appears, launch Disk Utility and follow the instructions in this support article, under “Instructions for backing up to an external hard disk via Disk Utility.” The article refers to starting up from a DVD, but the procedure in Recovery mode is the same. You don't need a DVD if you're running OS X 10.7 or later.
b. If Step 1a fails because of disk errors, and no other Mac is available, then you may be able to salvage some of your files by copying them in the Finder. If you already have an external drive with OS X installed, start up from it. Otherwise, if you have Internet access, follow the instructions on this page to prepare the external drive and install OS X on it. You'll use the Recovery installer, rather than downloading it from the App Store.
c. If you have access to a working Mac, and both it and the non-working Mac have FireWire or Thunderbolt ports, start the non-working Mac in target disk mode. Use the working Mac to copy the data to another drive. This technique won't work with USB, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, or Bluetooth.
d. If the internal drive of the non-working Mac is user-replaceable, remove it and mount it in an external enclosure or drive dock. Use another Mac to copy the data.
Step 2
If the startup process stops at a blank gray screen with no Apple logo or spinning "daisy wheel," then the startup volume may be full. If you had previously seen warnings of low disk space, this is almost certainly the case. You might be able to start up in safe mode even though you can't start up normally. Otherwise, start up from an external drive, or else use the technique in Step 1b, 1c, or 1d to mount the internal drive and delete some files. According to Apple documentation, you need at least 9 GB of available space on the startup volume (as shown in the Finder Info window) for normal operation.
Step 3
Sometimes a startup failure can be resolved by resetting the NVRAM.
Step 4
If a desktop Mac hangs at a plain gray screen with a movable cursor, the keyboard may not be recognized. Press and hold the button on the side of an Apple wireless keyboard to make it discoverable. If need be, replace or recharge the batteries. If you're using a USB keyboard connected to a hub, connect it to a built-in port.
Step 5
If there's a built-in optical drive, a disc may be stuck in it. Follow these instructions to eject it.
Step 6
Press and hold the power button until the power shuts off. Disconnect all wired peripherals except those needed to start up, and remove all aftermarket expansion cards. Use a different keyboard and/or mouse, if those devices are wired. If you can start up now, one of the devices you disconnected, or a combination of them, is causing the problem. Finding out which one is a process of elimination.
Step 7
If you've started from an external storage device, make sure that the internal startup volume is selected in the Startup Disk pane of System Preferences.
Start up in safe mode. Note: If FileVault is enabled in OS X 10.9 or earlier, or if a firmware password is set, or if the startup volume is a software RAID, you can’t do this. Post for further instructions.
Safe mode is much slower to start and run than normal, and some things won’t work at all, including wireless networking on certain Macs.
The login screen appears even if you usually log in automatically. You must know the login password in order to log in. If you’ve forgotten the password, you will need to reset it before you begin.
When you start up in safe mode, it's normal to see a dark gray progress bar on a light gray background. If the progress bar gets stuck for more than a few minutes, or if the system shuts down automatically while the progress bar is displayed, the startup volume is corrupt and the drive is probably malfunctioning. In that case, go to Step 11. If you ever have another problem with the drive, replace it immediately.
If you can start and log in in safe mode, empty the Trash, and then open the Finder Info window on the startup volume ("Macintosh HD," unless you gave it a different name.) Check that you have at least 9 GB of available space, as shown in the window. If you don't, copy as many files as necessary to another volume (not another folder on the same volume) and delete the originals. Deletion isn't complete until you empty the Trash again. Do this until the available space is more than 9 GB. Then restart as usual (i.e., not in safe mode.)
If the startup process hangs again, the problem is likely caused by a third-party system modification that you installed. Post for further instructions.
Step 8
Launch Disk Utility in Recovery mode (see Step 1.) Select the startup volume, then run Repair Disk. If any problems are found, repeat until clear. If Disk Utility reports that the volume can't be repaired, the drive has malfunctioned and should be replaced. You might choose to tolerate one such malfunction in the life of the drive. In that case, erase the volume and restore from a backup. If the same thing ever happens again, replace the drive immediately.
This is one of the rare situations in which you should also run Repair Permissions, ignoring the false warnings it may produce. Look for the line "Permissions repair complete" at the end of the output. Then restart as usual.
Step 9
If the startup device is an aftermarket SSD, it may need a firmware update and/or a forced "garbage collection." Instructions for doing this with a Crucial-branded SSD were posted here. Some of those instructions may apply to other brands of SSD, but you should check with the vendor's tech support.
Step 10
Reinstall the OS. If the Mac was upgraded from an older version of OS X, you’ll need the Apple ID and password you used to upgrade.
Step 11
Do as in Step 9, but this time erase the startup volume in Disk Utility before installing. The system should automatically restart into the Setup Assistant. Follow the prompts to transfer the data from a Time Machine or other backup.
Step 12
This step applies only to models that have a logic-board ("PRAM") battery: all Mac Pro's and some others (not current models.) Both desktop and portable Macs used to have such a battery. The logic-board battery, if there is one, is separate from the main battery of a portable. A dead logic-board battery can cause a startup failure. Typically the failure will be preceded by loss of the settings for the startup disk and system clock. See the user manual for replacement instructions. You may have to take the machine to a service provider to have the battery replaced.
Step 13
If you get this far, you're probably dealing with a hardware fault. Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store, or go to another authorized service provider.

In my macbook pro sees in the screen very wide a vertical black bar and it does not let see what this underneath that bar

in my macbook pro sees in the screen very wide a vertical black bar and it does not let see what this underneath that bar

Take it in for service. Your screen probably needs to be replaced.

How do I get CS4 Change Quality Presets to be used and remove black bars?

In Encore CS4 I CAN change the quality preset to what I want, but then when I go back to the project it does not stick. I tried to get to transcode settings, but they are greyed out. There does not seem to be a way to "USE" the quality preset I have saved!
This is a single video clip that I sent to Encore from Premier Pro CS4 so I could make DVD and BD's. However it seems I am unable to make a DVD at 4 Mbps (so I can combine this Premier Pro Project with another on a single DVD) no matter what I try. Also I notice the BD I made was not m2v like I am used to in CS3, and therefore are not sure I can combine it with a menu and another clip on a single BD as I have done numerous times in CS3 Encore.
I also notice as I look at preview, and then also when a made a default setting DVD that there are black bars on either side of the picture. This was a 1440X1080 60i project in Premier Pro CS3 and I am desireing to make ait a 1920 X 1080 DVD.
Neither of these were problems in Premier Pro CS3 and I am thinking the way around this is to spend the day or two and redo the project in CS3. I have done many projects successfully in CS3 and mistakenly thought I could just pick up the project in CS4 and be successful again. If anyone knows how to resolve these in CS4, it would save this extra work, if not, I will join the crowd with CS4 "issues" and go back to CS3.

First, on the black bars. I do not want them at all. I cannnot post a screenshot now as
file attachments are turned off temporarily, but they are about 5% on either side. Totally unacceptable especially when in CS3 when exported to Encore there are NO black bars either visible in Encore or in the resulting DVD's
On the options and is the preset saved. I can close Encore and open it afresh and find the preset that I saved listed in the dropdown of presets with the name I saved it as and all the settings the way I want them.
On the issue of Transcode settings when selecting the resource... When I select the resource in the Project panel, or in the Timeline tab, the Transcode settings is greyed out. I have consulted the help screens and forums for various ways to change the transcode settings and none of the suggested ways work.
It looks like my CS4 install does not work the way yours does. I am about to completely unistall CS4 and CS3 and all other Adobe products and try a fresh reinstall to see if that works. Most likely I will simply reinstall CS#, since that works, and abandon CS4 for now as I am getting way behind on my work, and know I can finish with CS3. I have also heard form others that Sony Vegas is really solid and does not have all these weird bugs such as seen in CS4 and CS5, and is a much less bloated product and does the encodings faster. Since it is also less expensive, this seems too good to be true, but work a trial. So first rip every Adobe product off my PC and format the HD and start fress with JUST CS3 and get my work done. Then try Vegas to see if it is as good as my buddies say, if so bye bye Adobe!

Does anyone know what to do if there is a black bar at the bottom of your ipod touch screen? It is like the whole screen is shifted upwards and I cant access my top row apps.

For some reason, there is a 1 inch thick black bar that appeared at the bottom of my screen. It shifted my whole screen upwards and now I cant access my top row apps. The ipod still works fine, but I cant figure out how to get it back to normal. Any ideas?

Try the sstandard fixes:
- Reset. Nothing will be lost
Reset iPod touch: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Restore from backup
- Restore to fctory defaults/new IPod.
If y still have the problem then an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.

I have a Pages file that I created on my iPad that I used iCloud to store. There are no backups anywhere of this file. The file is stuck on updating on iCloud and on the iPad the file is inaccessible. There is a black bar over it which greys the file out.

I have a Pages file that I used my iPad to create. iCloud backed this file up to its server. The problem is that my iPad somehow locked itself. I had to restore it, the file was lost on the iPad, and when I went back to iCloud to retrieve the file it said it was Updating. The file is showing on my iPad, but it is greyed out with a black bar across the bottom of it. I have been working on this file for months, and I am not about to lose it! Please can someone tell me how I can get my file to download at least to my iMac.
This file has worked perfectly in the past, and what I didn't realise when the iPad was locked down was that the Airplane Mode was on, to save battery. If that had been on it would have synced it again.
Can anyone help me? I'm supposed to be sending this file (completed) off to a company in three days.
Thanks

On the iPad tap Settings > iCloud
Toggle Documents & Data off then back on then restart your iPad.
Hold the On/Off Sleep/Wake button down until the red slider appears. Slide your finger across the slider to turn off iPhone. To turn iPhone back on, press and hold the On/Off Sleep/Wake button until the Apple logo appears.
On the iMac open System Preferences > iCloud
Deselect the box next to Documents & Data then reselect it then restart your iMac.

Remove Black Bars from Top and Bottom

Here's my situation:
I shot my footage FULL FRAME (not anamorphic) but while shooting my footage I had markers on my LCD for a 2.35 Aspect Ratio.
Now that my footage is edited I dropped the FCP matte filter for 2.35
For those of you out there I know I did not use a anamorphic lens and I know I did not shoot it on 16:9 format. But is there a way to crop out the Black bars?
Again like the previous post I would like to remove the black bars and have my QUICKTIME MOV. play like the ones on APPLE's Trailer site: http://www.apple.com/trailers/
Can anyone out there explain how to do this? Other then just drop this and change the size...WHAT DOES THAT MEAN? If you can provide more step by step information that would be great!

1. Create a New Sequence in FCP (Command-N)
2. Bring up your Sequence Settings (Comman-Zero) and alter them...
2a. so that your Frame Size is (approx) 720x306
2b. set Aspect Ratio to Custom.
3. Drop in your widescreen-filtered footage (they'll be shrunk, so...)
4. Select your clip (or all clips) (Command-A)
5. Remove Attributes (Option-Command-V) and select 'Basic Motion' then click OK.
6. Your movie should now (pretty much) fill the 2.35:1 sequence.
You'll probably need to tweak the frame size slightly (It's been a while since I've done this so my number(s) might be off).
Also, when you (ultimately) Export Via QuickTime Conversion (for the web?), be sure to take into account that the web uses Square Pixels - so resize your QT movie (in the Save Dialog, under Options) to be 640x306. (Again, my exact numbers might be off)
Good luck.

AWN and black bar (nevermind, pekwm's fault)

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