Calibrating monitor, prints, and CAMERA

I have a canon 5d. I custom white balance for correct color in camera. When I see the photo on the back of the camera dislplay the color looks spot on but when I upload to the computer the colors are almost purple. I use and eye one display calibrator for my monitor.
How can I correct this?

Aimee,
The problem is that your LCD screen on the camera is not color or tonally calibrated and what you see on it is not what you get. That's pretty normal for back of the camera LCDs and there's not anything you can do about it.
Are you shooting RAW or in camera jpegs? If you're shooting in camera jpegs, what color matrix have you chosen? You can basically set them to sRGB or Adobe RGB and, if that's what your'e shooting, they should be pretty close when you open them in Ps. If you're shooting RAW, which I really encourage you to do, the white balance you set in camera is only a guide used as a starting point for the raw image processing application - Canon's DPP, Adobe ACR or Lightroom or PhaseOne's CaptureOne. The white balance, along with the RGB working space can be overridden in the raw software to whatever works best for you.
Obviously a hardware calibrated monitor is a must when evaluating digital files. I assume you've done that, right?
Peter

Similar Messages

  • Just reinstalled software and migrated data from Time Machine, now iMac does not recognize printer or camera

    Under the direction of Apple Support, I recently erased my iMac (Intel) hard drive, reinstalled and updated software and migrated data from an external hard drive via Time Machine.
    Now, after clicking on "PRINT", the print dialog box says "printing" then says "no pages found", and finally says "stopped"; and when I plug in my camera to download photos, the camera is not recognized.  Both printer and camera are connected via USB.
    I checked connections, verified printing and iPhoto preferences, turned printer off then on again, unplugged and replugged USB connections, and checked and followed directions in the Help menu.

    Thanks very much, I'd just tried rkaufmann87's suggestion and entered "This solved my question" when your suggestion popped up—you deserve a "This solved my question" too, though I saw only an option for "This helped me".
    Before I got rkaufmann87's suggestion, I repaired disk permissions and that resolved the camera problem.  Both of you nailed the solution.
    Thanks again!

  • I just bought an hp6500a printer and my ipad2 won't print. It says it can't find a printer. Does anyone know how to get it to print?

    I need help to print. I just bought an hp6500a printer and my iPad 2 says it can't find a printer. My iMac pro is printing to it wirelessly.  Help!

    Just up late weighing in on this question.
    I have a HP6500a.  I called for help in setting up the "Air Print" facility from HP itself.  1 800 474 6836  They were great.  Its complex but they have a special "Air Print" division.  Ask the representative who comes on to be transferred there right away.  (Unfortunately I have three conflicting computers on the same Air Print system, so I've been there a few times until everything got sorted out).  I thought HP told me to install an HP Air print App on my home screen but right now I can't find it .  Guess I got too many Apps!  (Oh right there is a search function, but I just tried HP or Air Print and came up empty!).
    Good Luck...sorry I don't remember the exact details of setting my unit up, but it does depend upon what ISP you have.

  • White Balance tool and Camera Calibration Profiles

    Downloaded Lightroom v4 Beta 1 for mac but the installer package failed to launch. (com.apple.installer.pagecontroller error -1.) So I've only watched the adobe tv presentations todate.
    Anyway just wanted to give some feedback as a pro photographer about use of Lightroom and improvments I would like to see in the next version.
    I am a commercial photographer who needs colour accuracy in photographing fashion/garment images - most of my work is reproduced on a printing press for catalogues and brochures. On average a shoot will yeild about 500 images for a client, so workflow is important as they normally want them all!
    As a previous user of Capture One Pro v6 and now lightroom v3.6 - the biggest issue I have with Lightroom is the dominace of red tint when setting the white balance from a gray card reference image, shot at the same time as the images to be processed. I'm not adding anything to the images other than doing a white balance, a tweak on exposure and camera neutral setting on profiles.
    To obtain a white balance setting I use the combination of an  Xrite white balance card and the Q-Card and the old fasioned Kodak Gray cards all mounted on the same surface. I've used spot and ambient light readings on the gray cards to measure exposure and I've used the Adobe DNG Profiler and the Xrite colour checker profiler with the large colour checker card as a reference, (I've made profiles for sunny days, cloudy days, dual illuminant etc etc) and I'm viewing my images on a colour calibrated apple monitor.
    Not withstanding all of the above the best results I get out of Lightroom are using the camera profile neutral setting! Everthing else is just too red!! even though the images do look more punchy; for accuracy of actual colour I choose the camera neutral profile.
    Well when I say best results, those for colour critical garment photography and skin tones, these results are similar to those obtained from capture one pro v6.
    So for the Lightroom v4 I would like to see.
    1. White balance RGB values in numbers rather than percentages.
    2. Add and delete a colour readouts points with a dropper tool on an image to enable more acurate colour balancing particularly in shadow areas - (already available on capture one pro and adobe photoshop)
    3. Curves adjustments in all RGB channels (think you've done this)
    4. Output to CMYK profiles.
    5. Individual levels channel adjustment for RGB
    6. Ability re-organize my tools palette (add and remove) is per Capture One and Photoshop
    Regards

    The legacy ACR X.x profiles are no more produced nor included for newer cameras (AFAIK, since ACR 5.1/LR 2.1). The Adobe Standard is the new default starting point for these.
    While I am at it....are the Canon camera profiles I downloaded for the 1Ds MKII the same as for the 5D MKII or do I have to download different one...I suspect they are the same or Lightroom wouldn't offer them to me...is that correct?
    The profiles are different for each camera model, even if they share the same name in the Calibration panel. If you can see them when developing 5DII files, it means the camera-specific profiles are installed for your particular camera model (otherwise, you wouldn't see them).

  • Printer and scanner calibration

    Hi,
    I have a DTP94 colorimeter (AKA Monaco XR Pro), a Canon iP1600 printer and an Epson Perfection 4990 Photo scanner (with built-in slide/negative scanner). What do I need to buy, in terms of hardware and software, to calibrate the printer and scanner?
    S.
    EDIT: I also have the latest ColorEyes Display Pro software demo installed. Does this apply at all?
    Message was edited by: SiRGadaBout

    Monaco's EZColor software, supplied with the DTP94, actually offers scanner and printer profiling, but only in versions 2.50 upwards
    I hadn't mentioned that one because I knew it was no longer for sale. I think it was dropped a couple of years ago.
    I'm trying to find someone who may profile these devices for me for a small fee, though this is also proving difficult...
    I have the equipment and software to do that. The only real issue creating printer profiles long distance is making sure the targets get printed correctly. Depending on the printer drivers, and sometimes the printer itself, it sometimes isn't even possible.
    or (in one very surprising case) don't profile their equipment at all
    That is very surprising. I'd sure like to know how they can get any kind of consistent and accurate color between monitor/printer/camera/scanner.
    Most places though don't waste time trying to profile digital cameras for a couple of reasons. One is that it's the rare camera (usually only on the very high end) that will take an untagged image. No profile embedded, like Adobe RGB; no defined white point color, nada. Necessary to create a profile. RAW is untagged, but then when you open such a file in Photoshop; say from a Nikon D700, you have to choose a color space to tag it with while opening the image from the RAW plug-in to the PS interface.
    The other reason is that profiles are very specific to the method used to create them. Say you profile your monitor. Then you change the brightness or contrast controls. Your profile is now useless since the monitor is no longer at the settings used to create the profile. With a digital camera, if you create an accurate profile, it's only good as long as you never move the camera, change the lens or zoom setting, or move any of the lighting. As soon as you do, you invalidate the profile.
    Here's another option. Much better than the ColorMunki to do your monitor and printer profiles. Not as inexpensive as the ColorMunki, but not empty your pockets expensive like an i1iSis/ProfileMaker 5 or Monaco Profiler bundle. X-Rite's i1Xtreme. The only drawback is that you have to choose an i1 spectrophotometer with or without a UV cut filter. It's fixed in the main unit depending on which one you buy and can't be changed. I mention this because having the UV filter is necessary to create printer profiles that will produce correct color output by cutting the UV brighteners in many papers. Colors tend to come out odd otherwise. As far as a monitor, different people at X-Rite have told me two different things. One said you should have a non UV cut unit for monitors. The other said it doesn't make any difference.
    The other drawback to the i1 Pro (XTreme) bundle is that there is still no scanner profiling in it.

  • I don't have a wireless printer, and want to print things off of my iPad.  I know that I can use the iPad Camera Connection kit to connect USB devices like keyboards and I am wondering if I could do the same with a USB printer.

    I don't have a wireless printer, and want to print things off of my iPad.  I know that I can use the iPad Camera Connection kit to connect USB devices like keyboards and I am wondering if I could do the same with a USB printer.

    I don't think you can connect a printer since you won't have the printer drivers. I use FingerPrint from collobos.com to print to my non-AirPrint printers.

  • How do I get the Basic and camera calibration sub panels in the develop modual to come back after they go away on there own?

    I was working on images and then when I picked a different image the basic and camera calibration sub panels disappeared. How do I get them back?

    Right click on one of the other headers and a popup will appear and you can select the ones you need to view.

  • Can I use my IPad to monitor 2 web cams in my children's rooms? How, and what do I need?

    How can I use my IPad to monitor 2 web cams wirelessly in my children's rooms?

    Search for webcam apps in the app store.  Most work only with specific cameras.  Check the manufacturer of yours and see if they offer an iOS app.

  • PDF 'print' and other 'next' and 'finish' commands hidden behind deep icon tray on monitor. Help!

    Pavilion Slimline s5212y desktop, Windows 7
    I can't find info on how to control lower icon tray depth so that I can see and click on various program install, PDF print and other 'print', 'next', 'finish', etc. commands. 

    Hello Veebeep
    If I understand you correctly your PDF viewer is not giving you the options you posted above. Click on View and ensure that both Read Mode and Full Screen Mode are unchecked. This should get your options back if you are experiencing that I am thinking you are. If this does not work if you could elaborate a bit on your issue I will try to assist.
    Thank you for posting on the HP Forums. Have a great day!
    Please click the "Thumbs Up" on the bottom right of this post to say thank you if you appreciate the support I provide!
    Also be sure to mark my post as “Accept as Solution" if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others who face the same challenge find the same solution.
    Dunidar
    I work on behalf of HP
    Find out a bit more about me by checking out my profile!
    "Customers don’t expect you to be perfect. They do expect you to fix things when they go wrong." ~ Donald Porter

  • Newbie Question My Photos print and show desaturated color

    Hi I have a feeling there is a very simple answer to this. My photos which I mainly process in Lightroom 3 (with some adjustments in Photoshop CS3) print and show desaturated colors wether or not they are RAW or JPEG. I have applied camera profile settings such as landscape, to raw files but when I export them as a jpg and send to a photo shop to print they are still desaturated. Also when I send a stand alone file to a media contact it shows desaturated to them. If I deliberately adjust my monitor to Pro RGB it appears to show the true colour that others are seeing. I have attempted to over saturate to get a reasonable print but clearly this is not correct.
    Proberbly an easy question for someone out there but I am having trouble resolving it.
    Many Thanks
    Steve

    Please click on the link below and read the entire site carefully.  Then follow the instructions to the letter.
    http://www.gballard.net/psd/cmstheory.html
    In a nutshell:
    • Calibrate and profile your monitor.  Set the resulting profile as your monitor profile.  Never use a device independent color space (such as ProPhoto RGB, Adobe RGB or sRGB) as your monitor profile.  Only use your calibrated profile specific to your monitor.
    • honor the embedded profile in each file;
    • when sending your images to a run-of-the mill lab, convert your images to sRGB (do not use assign profile; use CONVERT to profile) and embed the sRGB profile in them.
    The above site explains it all to you.
    Wo Tai Lao Le
    我太老了

  • Printer not printing AND Matching Screen colors to Print colors.  Any advice is apreciated!!

    Hello - I have 2 questions regarding  printing to an Epson and also regarding the monitor colors Not matching the print colors working from Photoshop CS4 on a Mac with a Maverick [ 10.9.3 ] OS. My issues are Not about my own printers or software.  I have been tutoring a friend via phone in Photoshop; he has CS4 and is working on Mac OS 10.9.3.
    1- We found that he could print nearly fine [ nearly accurate colors ] from Lightroom on his computer, version 5.4.   But when he tries to print from Photoshop he cannot make a print.   There is clear communication between the computer and the printer, as, when he sent the file to print, the printer [ an Epson 3880 ] responded by automatically changing to Photo Black from Matte.  Then, it opens the rollers as if to print, but, it them stops and the menu [ on the Printer ] says 'Ready.'   The paper is 4x6” Moab Lasal paper 300gsm. This issue of Not printing is only with this Moab Lasal luster paper, for which he Does have the IIC profile, and we always make sure ‘Photoshop manages colors,’ not the printer. To address the issue of the printer Not printing at all using a non-Epson brand paper, we have tried seemingly everything from deleting and re-adding the printer from the Library / Printers, resetting everything [ printer   computer   software etc ], trying different settings in the Printer window and the Print Settings window. Including changing the media profile, platen gap, etc.
    2- My other and more important question is – after we Do get a print, we cannot match the monitor color to the print. [ We havE been able to get a print using Epson brand paper.   Which is odd because we have the ICC profiles for both papers ]. To address the color matching issue, he has told me he calibrated the monitor with a Spyder, and here are a few other variables that I can relay that may or may not be affecting his color-issues:
    He iS viewing his prints in a dayliglht-rated lighting environment
    The monitor is an iMac glossy finish monitor, not an anti-glare
    We tried working and printing from both an 8-bit and also a 16-bit color-space and also 16-bit printing
    The color shift is slightly but noticeably toward Magenta.
    His printer is Not calibrated
    Please let me know what else we can do, any known glitches that may be an issue with his older version of CS, any tips you can suggest.
    Thanks very much!

    I don't have that printer and I'm not on Mac, so someone else has to step in there. Generally a green/magenta cast indicates none/double printer color management. But then I don't know what you mean by "slight".
    The Spyders aren't the most consistent and reliable calibrators out there. I had a Spyder 3 sensor that I just threw away because it gave a distinct red cast (I have several other calibrators, so there was no doubt). Another potential problem is that with most calibrators you can only adjust the white point along the blue/yellow Kelvin scale, but not on the green/magenta scale. This is often necessary to get a good white point color. In this case you need to use the monitor's OSD controls, and if possible the "pre-calibration" function in the calibrator to measure and monitor it - if that function exists. And I don't know if this is possible with an iMac.
    This is basically a question of getting the white point right, both on the blue/yellow and the green/magenta axis (and luminance of course). The goal is to get a visual match to paper white on screen. With the white point properly set, neutral color balance relates to that, and the rest more or less follows by itself. (In addition you should set the proper black point/contrast for full control, but that's not the issue here).

  • [FIX] Darker prints and color shifts when printing from Lightroom 2

    Hi,
    The problem :
    When printing RAW or TIFF files from LR2, you get a printer output that
    is much darker than it should be and that presents various color shifts.
    I'm using an Epson Stylus Pro 3800 with the latest Windows driver
    (6.50 - which is rather old by the way). The workaround described below
    works for me under Windows XP SP3. It should also probably work with
    other systems/printers/drivers. Use at your own (minor) risk.
    The "official" procedure for printing from LR is as follows:
    1. Do not let the printer manage colors and select "Other..." from the
    profile dropdown list and select the ICC/ICM paper/printer profile that
    you want to use.
    2. Click on Print... in LR which opens the Print Settings dialog.
    3. Select the options you need and the paper you're using.
    4. **Disable the color management from the driver's side** (in Epson's
    drivers, "Mode | Custom | No Color Adjustments").
    5. Print
    Unfortunately, **this doesn't work** for many of us and this produces a
    print that is dark and has color shifts as mentioned above. Note that
    the same image prints correctly from QImage or Photoshop CS3 (that is,
    the printer output corresponds to what you see on your calibrated
    display).
    Apparently, although color management has been (allegedly) disabled in
    the driver, there's something wrong between LR and the driver which
    makes that *both* LR and the driver are still trying to manage colors.
    In other words, the "No Color Adjustements" option of the driver doesn't
    seem to work with LR.
    The workaround (found after hours of hair pulling and paper and
    expensive ink wasting):
    In step #4,
    1. Instead of selecting "No Color Adjustments", set Mode to "Custom |
    ICM
    2. Click Advanced...
    3. Check "Show all profiles".
    4. Select Driver ICM (Advanced)"
    5. Set **both** the "Input profile" and the "Printer profile" fields to
    the very same profile that you specified in LR.
    That is, if you specified Pro38 PGPP (Premium Glossy Photo Paper) in LR,
    then also select Pro38 PGPP in both "Input Profile" and "Printer
    Profile". This has actually the same effect has disabling color
    management in the driver (what "No Color Adjustements" should normally
    take care of).
    That's it. When printing, you'll get exactly the same color results as
    when printing from QImage or Photoshop. No more dark prints. No more
    color shifts.
    One might think that the bug is in the Epson driver but in that case,
    QImage would have the very same problem. So I tend to think that the bug
    is on the Lightroom side.
    Note: Although Photoshop CS3 produces a correct printer output, it
    demonstrates the same problem as LR when using the "Match Print Color"
    option for soft proofing. But in that case, only the preview colors are
    wrong. The printer output is ok. Which also tends to demonstrate that
    Adobe has the problem, not Epson. Or maybe both... :-) .
    Don't ask me why some users have the problem and other don't.
    Hope this helps.
    Patrick Philippot
    MainSoft Consulting Services
    www.mainsoft.fr

    A sincere thank you for your reply, Michael. Sorry about the "it just doesn't make sense" shortcut. I have been trying to solve this issue since LR 1.1, spending dozens of hours on different trials and digesting everything written on this forum and the B9180 forum about color management and double profiling. My shortcut was a summation of my experience (and my frustration) but doesn't really advance the conversation. Here are some data that should be more useful in diagnosing the problem.
    I am running Windows XP SP2. I calibrate my monitor monthly with the Spyder. The reason I suspect this may be an issue of double profiling is because the results (moderately strong magenta overlay plus an increase in contrast) match what more knowledgeable people than I on this forum describe when double profiling occurs. Perhaps I shouldn't presume it is double profiling, and follow Patrick Philippot's lead in naming the problem "color shifts." Patrick does refer in post #2 of this thread, however, to obvious double profiling.
    I certainly do have a successful and consistent print method. With PS CS3, and either my Epson 1280 or my HP B9180, the output is almost always dead on. Here is how I do it. In PS from the print dialog box, under color handling I always choose "Photoshop manages colors." Then under printer profile I select the profile designated by the manufacturer for a particular paper/printer combination. Then in the printer driver I disable printer control of color. With the Epson I check the box "Off (No Color Adjustment)." With the B9180 I choose the option "Application Managed Colors." While I sometimes may tweak the final output, these procedures have served me well with PS for several years.
    Contrasted with my positive PS experience, my experience with LR printing has been inconsistent. I regret having to be so imprecise but truly sometimes LR produces accurate results that match the calibrated monitor, but most of the time it does not. I use standard procedures with LR that parallel the PS ones described above. In LR's printing panel, under color management, I specify the correct profile, just as I did for PS. Then in the printer driver I use the same procedures I use with PS. Most of the time the prints have the magenta overlay and too much contrast.
    BTW, the inconsistent LR printing only takes place with my HP B9180. I have never had any problem with off-color LR prints with my Epson 1280. Again, I emphasize that I have standard procedures that always work with PS (no matter which printer) and LR (but only with the Epson).
    Unfortunately the LR printing problems are intermittent. Some of the time (perhaps 20%) LR produces fine prints in the B9180, indistinguishable from PS prints. When LR is printing well, it will continue to print fine until "something happens" and the output shows the color shift. This means I do not get a random sequence of good-bad-good-bad prints, but rather good-good-x factor-bad-bad-bad. Ths problem is that I do not know what this "x factor" is. Once, when LR was giving me accurate output, I simply changed the default printer (Control Panel-Printers and Faxes) from the B9180 to my Samsung 1430 laser; immediately afterwards the LR output colors shifted. Did LR react to this change in default printers? Another time I had good LR printing success with version 1.2 but ran into the problems described above when I upgraded to version 1.3.
    Sorry for the long post. I am hoping that someone will see something that I am missing and provide a hint. I think, though, that Patrick is correct when he states, "I tend to think that the problem is with LR. After all, similar issues (obvious double profiling) are observed only in LR but with various printers."

  • Print and Softproof colors are bad for "Application managed color"

    Hello... Not sure if my problem is a Mac OS X issue, or a Lightroom issue. Either way I hope it is just user error.
    While printing, my prints look good using "printer managed color", both preview and printed output look good. I am used to using "application managed color" and am getting very poor colors, in both the preview and the printed output.
    I am somewhat familiar with color management, and understand the basic concepts of profiles.
    I have a new iMac 20" display, that is calibrated. I am printing on a HP 8450. It appears that both the printer and LR are trying to manage my color when I am trying to do a "application managed color" print. Not being familiar with OS X, I have not been able to determine how to disable the color management of my printer driver.
    If anyone has any suggestions, please help... I have been fighting this off and on all day...
    One other thing... off topic, but if anyone knows how to adjust a 20" iMac 20 RGB values, please let me know. I can't see how to manually adjust the individual channels.
    Thanks, Mike

    Well, it sounds like you are not getting all your ducks in a row on setting up LR for "application managed color". There aresome excellent step by steps in one or two other threads. A key point is using the individual icc profile for the specific paper not the generic.
    To properly calibrate you Monitor you should use a Calibration device, like a Spyder not tweek the numbers by hand/eye.
    It is just user error.
    Don
    Don Ricklin, MacBook 1.83Ghz Duo 2 Core running 10.4.9 & Win XP, Pentax *ist D
    http://donricklin.blogspot.com/

  • GIMP Printing and ColorSync... ?

    Since discovering I can now print (to my Epson Stylus Color 1160) printer using the GIMP drivers furnished in Tiger 10.4.11, I nevertheless seem to be missing ColorSync support.
    Images (photos and Photoshop images) don't seem to be printing with reliable color rendition. (All my artwork previously had been elaborately calibrated for screen display and printing via the Epson printing software and ColorSync. That is, until Epson decided to orphan the printer by abandoning software support for Tiger and beyond.)
    When I search on the Internet for an explanation of the GIMP/ColorSync issue, I find numerous articles that assert that these GIMP drivers do not support my old ColorSync (ICC) profiles, and which articles are otherwise oblique, abstruse, and equivocal.
    I can't understand what I'm supposed to do:
    -- Turn off ColorSync (how?);
    -- Re-calibrate new ICC profiles for the printer (again, how? By using the ColorSync Utility?);
    -- Spend a fortune on ink and paper by trial and error test printing?
    If you have a simple understandable explanation of how to print my existing ColorSynced image files in this situation, I'd surely like to know! And thanks!

    Norm Caryl wrote:
    I've downloaded GutenPrint 5.2.6, but haven't installed it because the docs (seem to) say that it won't reliably use the printer ICC profiles that I previously assigned via the Epson software...
    The documentation has only a paragraph or two in the entire "manual" to address ColorSync.
    The Gutenprint drivers are written to be used on many systems such as Linux, Mac OS X, and other *nix platforms. They were not written specifically for OS X and for use with ColorSync.
    What the manual is saying is basically what I mentioned earlier. ICC profiles that were supplied by Epson for use with their own drivers paper, and ink will not produce the same output when used with a different driver such as Gutenprint. Likewise, the Epson provided ICC profiles will not produce the same results if you use third party ink or third party papers.
    The Photoshop "color space" for my files is the "Adobe RGB (1998)." Not sure what will happen if I change this to sRGB for the image... (if that's possible).
    I am far from expert in color managing. It may be of some benefit if you read a discussion on the Gutenprint forums at https://sourceforge.net/projects/gimp-print/forums/forum/4359/topic/3810875. Of course each printer is going to be different, but the principles outlined there would still apply. In that discussion, it was found that changing the color space to AppleRGB and then printing using "Same as Source" was getting close to the right output. You still may need to make some adjustments to the Density or Gamma controls in the Gutenprint settings.
    One thing you will need to pay particular attention to is to make sure that you have the type of paper selected properly in the print window under Printer Features. Also, you will need to set the proper resolution and image type in the Gutenprint settings under Printer Features.
    ColorSync profiles show up in the (Tiger) GIMP printing routine (one for each paper stock), but I'm not sure where these came from -- are they my original ICC profiles from my Epson software, or are they profiles GIMP furnishes?
    The Gutenprint drivers do not provide any ICC profiles. The PPDs do contain directives to manage to the sRGB profile that comes with OS X as that is the color space that Gutenprint expects.
    I was hoping there'd be a "simple" way to convert my old ColorSync profiles so that I could print them with reliable color rendition...
    As I have 30 or 40 photos (of approx. 220MB) to be printed at 13" x 19", I'm a bit reluctant to go in and color balance them all in the ColorSync Utility (especially as I don't understand whether or not the ColorSync Utility is producing an ICC profile for the printer. (Or is the ColorSync Utility merely creating another screen profile?)
    I have pretty much reached my knowledge limit on the use of ColorSync and the use of it with the Gutenprint drivers. As a practical matter, it is always best to experiment with smaller test prints and use copies of any images you test just to make sure you don't accidentally corrupt a good file.

  • Color settings after calibrating monitor with Spyder 4Pro

    Hello,  Now that I got my new laptop and finally got a perfect calibration with the Spyder 4Pro , I have a question.  Do I leave the color space on Photoshop and Lightroom as they are (Abobe 1998) or use the new profile?  I also do a lot of my own prints with a great Epson, do I leave that on the setting as is ( let photoshop manage etc) or use the new profile?
    Thanks in advance....

    The profile saved by your calibration software is your Monitor Profile and absolutely nothing else..
    It has absolutely nothing to do with your working color space or your printer (target) profile.
    Monitor profiles are absolutely device-dependent, that means it only applies to your particular monitor unit and nothing else, not even an identical monitor of the same brand and model.
    Your working space should be a a device-independet color space, such as ProPhoto RGB, Adobe RGB, sRGB, etc.
    Your printer profile, also called target profile, is a totally device-dependent profile for your specific combination of paper/ink/printer.
    You need to do an awful lot of reading on Color Management, a subject some of us have spent a very long time studying before we grasp it.  A good place to start would be here:
    COLOR MANAGEMENT PHOTOSHOP CC CS6 Basic ColorManagement Theory ICC Profiles Color Spaces Calibrated Monitor Professional…

Maybe you are looking for