Camera on Curve

Why are all my pictures BLURRY when I take a take a picture on my curve
Nurse-Berry
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I googled it and it said to make sure the lense is clear of any obstructions, try to keep a steady hand, make sure picture quality is set to highest setting, and to wait a sec after capturing the shot. there might be a lag. hope it helps. im a newbie at this stuff, so, sorry if this is known.

Similar Messages

HDR problems, inconsistant results and camera response curves

So, I'm doing some HDR panoramas, and every once in a while I'll get one set of merged files looking completely different than the rest of them, usually brighter and with higher contrast. When I look at the 32 bit HDR processing option, I notice that the camera response curve is totally different on the malfunctioning HDR merge shot (10 paritioning lines in the histogram instead of 8). I am shooting RAW with a Canon 60D and Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8. I am in manual exposure, manual white balance, highlight tone priority off, no flash, everything that that be set to manual is set to manual. Sometimes it seems that the malfinctioning set of shots is the one that is not pointing at a bright light source. If everything in the camera is set to manual, how can Photoshop Merge to HDR tell if a shot is less bright than another? Is my camera making a different Camera Response Curve for these less-bright set of photos? I tried saving a Camera Response curve, and applying it to the other sets of photos, but that didn't work. I am using CS5.1 on a brand new computer, but this was happening with CS5 on my slightly older computer a few weeks ago as well.
I'm out of ideas.
Has anyone else experienced this?

Thanks Marty,
I have seen other threads that describe and show the results you are getting, but my inconsistancy is just a stop or so brighter, and a completely different contrast curve. And it's usually only in shots that dont have a bright reflection or the sun shining in the camera.
It's very important in panoramas that each shot has the exact same exposure and processing, so if one set of HDR exposures in a panorama is being interpreted differently by the software, it ruins the whole panorama.
What I really need to know is, is it a camera setting that is making Merge to HDR interpret these sets of exopsures differently than the others, or is the Merge to HDR software interpreting the brightness and contrast on the images on it's own and making a change to the settings based on some sort of automatic level adjustment that I don't know about.

Camera Response Curve file format

Hi,
is there any documentation on the rcv file format used to store camera response curves and what its data represents?
In my case the content is:
HDRMergeResponseCurve_2.0
Canon-Canon EOS 5D Mark II
4 Y coefficients
-0.029127
0.428257
-1.513274
2.114144
I need to use the response curve outside of Photohsop. How can I use these 4 coefficients to map pixel intensity to linear data?
Thanks!

Harold,
The short answer is good. Actually, it is very good.
I found the differences in color accuracy and computer work time after creating a color profile to be quite noticeable. I have my camera's profile set to default in ACR. I was wondering about this being something of equal benefit.
Thank you.
Bill

Color correcting with curves

I'm following an old tutorial on color correcting images from digital cameras using curves.
1. Is using the curves to color correct more accurate than using levels?
2. It has me enter for shadows: r=20, g=20, b=20 highlights:r=240, g=240, b=240 and midtones: r=128, g=128. b=128 and to save them as defaults. What are these values based on? Are these values good to use for all digital images?
3. It also has me set the default RGB working space to Adobe RGB (1998). Is this still the best color space for working with digital camera images?
Thanks

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StanWelks wrote:
1. Is using the curves to color correct more accurate than using levels?
2. It has me enter for shadows: r=20, g=20, b=20 highlights:r=240, g=240, b=240 and midtones: r=128, g=128. b=128 and to save them as defaults. What are these values based on? Are these values good to use for all digital images?
3. It also has me set the default RGB working space to Adobe RGB (1998). Is this still the best color space for working with digital camera images?
No, No, and No.
The long answers are more complicated.
Curves is not more accurate than levels, just different. Curves is just another way to manipulate image data. You can do more complex things with Curves than you can with levels - for example by setting multiple points. Though I'm not quite sure what specific defaults you're being instructed to change, I don't think I'd change any defaults per one tutorial if you're not familiar with Photoshop. Use Photoshop with Adobe's defaults until you understand why you'd want to change them. Otherwise you'll get used to it working a different way than everyone else, and that could cause ongoing confusion.
Your working space choice is basically defining the default way you want to work, and there's no one "right" setting. Your choice will be highly dependent on what you do with your images after you Photoshop them, and how you want it to act when there are choices to be made. Again, I'd suggest leaving it on Adobe's default (sRGB) until after you read up on color management and really understand why you want to use one color space or another. It's a big, complex subject that will take some time to get one's head around, but it's well worth doing.
-Noel

Photography Quick Tips

Photo-Taking Tips
Get extra memory cards
If more than one person will be using the same camera buy a separate memory card for each person; this way, everyone can keep their photos separate, and you don’t run the risk of deleting someone else’s pictures.
Memory cards for video
If you plan on taking a lot of video, it would be a good idea to use a memory card with a good amount of memory (at least 2GB) with a high write speed. With this being said most digital cameras do an average job of capturing video, but I would suggest getting a camcorder if video is a priority to you.
Pet Photography
When photographing pets, I would suggest using as much natural light as possible. To avoid red/green eye reflection I would suggest not using a flash or at least using an off camera lighting source. Get down to the pets level when capturing your image (would you get onto a ladder to take a portrait of a person).
Lens flare
To eliminate lens flare, use a lens hood on your camera or curve your hand around the outside of the lens.  If you want to read a more detailed post about lens flare you could click here.
Magic hour
The best natural light is the light right after sunrise and right before sunset, and this light typically lasts for about an hour. Magic hour is when the majority of professional natural light photographs are taken, and you will be very surprised how much better your images look when taken during Magic hour. When photographing sunsets don’t use a flash and mount your camera to a tripod.
Shooting through glass
When shooting objects through glass, don’t use a flash and use a polarizing lens filter if your camera is a DSLR. I would also suggest switching your camera to manual focus (if your camera has this option) since the autofocus system of your camera could easily be fooled into focusing on the glass (especially if the glass is dirty) and not your subject.
Printing Tips
Printer settings
Most printers allow you to change its setup depending on what type of output you are going to be printing too, and what type of quality you want. I would suggest setting your printer to Photo Paper and the best quality setting before printing your photos.
Photo paper
Not all photo papers are created equal! I would suggest investing in a high quality photo paper before printing your images.
Photo ink
I would also suggest making sure you are using photo-quality inks. You will be astonished by how much better your prints look when printed with high quality photo inks.
Archival
Lastly I would make sure that the paper you are using is archival if you want your images to last your lifetime. I would also suggest always handling your prints by the edges since the oils from a person’s fingers can cause your images to fade and discolor over time. If your prints are intended to be framed or put in an album I would suggest getting a few pairs of white cotton gloves which can be purchased at most art stores.

Photo-Taking Tips
Get extra memory cards
If more than one person will be using the same camera buy a separate memory card for each person; this way, everyone can keep their photos separate, and you don’t run the risk of deleting someone else’s pictures.
Memory cards for video
If you plan on taking a lot of video, it would be a good idea to use a memory card with a good amount of memory (at least 2GB) with a high write speed. With this being said most digital cameras do an average job of capturing video, but I would suggest getting a camcorder if video is a priority to you.
Pet Photography
When photographing pets, I would suggest using as much natural light as possible. To avoid red/green eye reflection I would suggest not using a flash or at least using an off camera lighting source. Get down to the pets level when capturing your image (would you get onto a ladder to take a portrait of a person).
Lens flare
To eliminate lens flare, use a lens hood on your camera or curve your hand around the outside of the lens.  If you want to read a more detailed post about lens flare you could click here.
Magic hour
The best natural light is the light right after sunrise and right before sunset, and this light typically lasts for about an hour. Magic hour is when the majority of professional natural light photographs are taken, and you will be very surprised how much better your images look when taken during Magic hour. When photographing sunsets don’t use a flash and mount your camera to a tripod.
Shooting through glass
When shooting objects through glass, don’t use a flash and use a polarizing lens filter if your camera is a DSLR. I would also suggest switching your camera to manual focus (if your camera has this option) since the autofocus system of your camera could easily be fooled into focusing on the glass (especially if the glass is dirty) and not your subject.
Printing Tips
Printer settings
Most printers allow you to change its setup depending on what type of output you are going to be printing too, and what type of quality you want. I would suggest setting your printer to Photo Paper and the best quality setting before printing your photos.
Photo paper
Not all photo papers are created equal! I would suggest investing in a high quality photo paper before printing your images.
Photo ink
I would also suggest making sure you are using photo-quality inks. You will be astonished by how much better your prints look when printed with high quality photo inks.
Archival
Lastly I would make sure that the paper you are using is archival if you want your images to last your lifetime. I would also suggest always handling your prints by the edges since the oils from a person’s fingers can cause your images to fade and discolor over time. If your prints are intended to be framed or put in an album I would suggest getting a few pairs of white cotton gloves which can be purchased at most art stores.

More Tips

More Photo-Taking Tips
Get extra memory cards
If more than one person will be using the same camera buy a separate memory card for each person; this way, everyone can keep their photos separate, and you don’t run the risk of deleting someone else’s pictures.
Memory cards for video
If you plan on taking a lot of video, it would be a good idea to use a memory card with a good amount of memory (at least 2GB) with a high write speed. With this being said most digital cameras do an average job of capturing video, but I would suggest getting a camcorder if video is a priority to you.
Pet Photography
When photographing pets, I would suggest using as much natural light as possible. To avoid red/green eye reflection I would suggest not using a flash or at least using an off camera lighting source. Get down to the pets level when capturing your image (would you get onto a ladder to take a portrait of a person).
Lens flare
To eliminate lens flare, use a lens hood on your camera or curve your hand around the outside of the lens.  If you want to read a more detailed post about lens flare you could click here.
Magic hour
The best natural light is the light right after sunrise and right before sunset, and this light typically lasts for about an hour. Magic hour is when the majority of professional natural light photographs are taken, and you will be very surprised how much better your images look when taken during Magic hour. When photographing sunsets don’t use a flash and mount your camera to a tripod.
Shooting through glass
When shooting objects through glass, don’t use a flash and use a polarizing lens filter if your camera is a DSLR. I would also suggest switching your camera to manual focus (if your camera has this option) since the autofocus system of your camera could easily be fooled into focusing on the glass (especially if the glass is dirty) and not your subject.
More Printing Tips
Printer settings
Most printers allow you to change its setup depending on what type of output you are going to be printing too, and what type of quality you want. I would suggest setting your printer to Photo Paper and the best quality setting before printing your photos.
Photo paper
Not all photo papers are created equal! I would suggest investing in a high quality photo paper before printing your images.
Photo ink
I would also suggest making sure you are using photo-quality inks. You will be astonished by how much better your prints look when printed with high quality photo inks.
Archival
Lastly I would make sure that the paper you are using is archival if you want your images to last your lifetime. I would also suggest always handling your prints by the edges since the oils from a person’s fingers can cause your images to fade and discolor over time. If your prints are intended to be framed or put in an album I would suggest getting a few pairs of white cotton gloves which can be purchased at most art stores.
Allan|Senior Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
Private Message

Anton
I guess the assumption I am making is that a service object performing
database operations is primarily composed of SQL statements. Thus, being
locked for the duration of the SQL is the operational equivalent of being
locked for the duration of the message. Would anyone else like to comment
on this? I would love to get this clarified for everyone.
Perhaps a more complelling reason for having server side transactions would
be to reduce message traffic. A client-side transaction interacting with
services implies multiple messages and replies going back and forth across
the network. While in a server side transaction it is more likely that the
transaction would complete within one process or perhaps multiple processes
on the same node. Regardless, if the message to the server were launched as
independent task then the client wouldn't be left waiting for the server
transaction to complete.
Eric
At 05:44 5/09/96 +-200, you wrote:
>
Hi Eric,
This is quite interesting. I was under the impression that the same happensfor server-side transactions, i.e. the DBSession is locked, because they are
single threaded, until the transaction completes, but a test showed that its
only locked for the duration of the SQL statement ! Does this correspond
with your experience ?
Regards.
Anton.
[snip]
"Client-side" transactions which involve database services cause the service
to be busy until the client operations are complete. In the case of
services which access the database this can have significant performance
implications. If a replicated copy of a database services is tied up in a
client-side transaction then it is no longer available
[snip]

ACR Overexposure with Nikon D3

Exposure to the right (ETTR) is a standard technique that requires placing of the image highlights just short of clipping in the raw file. Such exposure is often judged by the histogram or blinking highlights in the camera preview of the image, but is best determined by examining the raw file, since the camera preview is derived from a JPEG image to which the camera settings (white balance, tone curve, etc) have been applied. When one brings the raw file into Camera Raw, the white balance setting is applied, but the other camera settings are ignored. If the ACR histogram shows clipping of the highlights and a negative exposure adjustment is needed to recover them, this usually indicates that the image was overexposed. However, with the D3, the default ACR tone curve places the highlights too high and clipping occurs in the rendered file even when the highlights in the raw file are intact.
I exposed a Stouffer step wedge so that step 1 was just short of clipping with the Nikon D3 using 14 bit NEF and the results are shown in an Imatest plot using the built in DCRaw converter. The results are linear as expected.
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271579079_BGUhM-O.png
Next, I split off the the green1 channel of the raw file with Iris (a freeware astronomical program)and examined the results in ImageJ (a freeware program from the National Institutes of Health). This plot shows that step 1 is just short of clipping:
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271460382_RqUdu-O.gif
and this is further confirmed by the histogram:
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271460379_qwjtR-O.gif
However, when the file is brought into ACR, with the default tone curve, the highlights are clipped as shown:
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271460363_jMYHL-O.png
and -0.6 EV of exposure compensation is required to bring Step 1 in range:
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271460357_vDqYZ-O.png
Nikon Capture NX renders the highlights of this file correctly.:
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271569001_ZJwqX-O.png
The conclusion is that the default ACR tone curve for the D3 is too "hot" and indicates overexposure when none exists.
Next, here is the camera histogram of the properly exposed image. The histogram shows some clipping which is not really present in the raw file and which is eliminated by exposing 0.3 EV less. The conclusion is that the camera histogram is slightly conservative.
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271460374_mRjof-O.png
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271460388_WDMpW-O.png
The blinking highlight display is even more conservative and indicates overexposure by 0.6 EV:
http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/271460368_iFDsP-O.png
For optimum results with ETTR, it is best to perform your own tests to determine the accuracy of the in camera histogram and blinking highlights so that these aids may be used for optimum exposure. Since the camera tone curve affects the results, it is important to use the same tone curve each time. Furthermore, one should be aware that the ACR default tone curve is too hot and that one does not necessarily have to reduce exposure when a negative exposure compensation is needed to bring the highlights into range. This ACR overexposure has been noted by others, but I do not know if it occurs with all D3s. If so, then the default tone curve should be revised by Adobe.
http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=147&topic_id=53935&mesg_id =53935&page=2

Lawrence,
> How do you open a DNG that would be different than .nef?
The difference between the native raw and the DNG (in this case created by Adobe's DNG converter) is not in the raw data itself but in the metadata; BaselineExposure is a creature of the converter (and if the converter interprets the raw data this way, then ACR too is doing it this way).
I mentioned the DNG format, because *in the DNG file* (as metadata) the adjustment can be seen *explicitely*, in contrast to ACR's processing, which is lying about it: the "Exposure" slider is at 0, despite having adjusted the intensity. (Note, that ACR does not show the adjustment with DNG either.)
> Are you suggesting that converting a suspicious file having highlight clipping might be saved by converting to DNG?
There is no need to convert the file. The data is not lost - it is the same, as if you process a well-exposed image and adjust "Exposure" by (in this case) 1/2 EV: some pixels may become clipped. You can counter this several ways (beside by resetting the exposure adjustment), for example by Recovery (even though there is nothing to recover here, for nothing was lost in the first place), Contrast, etc.
The issue is not, that ACR woud lose image data, but
1. the auto-adjustment is not justified in this case (it is nonsense, that a Nikon D300's exposure should be adjusted to some imaginary "standard", even if that causes loss of part of the image),
2. it can be destructive if the user is not versed enough,
3. it is not indicated explicitely.

Incorporating Active D-lighting in Lightroom or Bridge?

I would like to have the capability of using the Nikon 800 Active D-Lighting when I want it.
My organizing and basic (gross) adjustments happen in Lightroom 5.3. Lightroom, and as near as I can find, NO Adobe products (Lightroom, Bridge, Photoshop) can read the ADL information from a Nikon D800 .NEF, so apparently I have to go outside my normal workflow to incorporate the ADL data.
I'm looking for the simplest and most efficient way to get from a NEF that has information Adobe won't read to some kind of raw file (a .dng?) WITH the ADL data. So far, the only path I've found is to open the images in View NX2 and convert them to 16-bit tiff files because View NX2 doesn't have any "convert to dng" that I can find.
Then, I have to open the tiff files in Bridge (or LR), shove them into ACR, and save them as .dng files. Aside from being clumsy, the .dng files are HUGE... a 48MB .NEF becomes a 42MB (approximately) .dng file. BUT, if I go through View NX2 and generate .tiff files, the tiff conversion to .dng generates a file between 110 and 120MB - almost THREE TIMES larger than a .dng created directly from the .nef.
Is there a reasonable way of getting a source file into Bridge orLightroom that incorporates the data in the Nikon .NEF?

DavePinMinn wrote:
I've seen arguments both ways
Many are made by people who don't know what they're talking about, even some proclaimed to be "experts" .
DavePinMinn wrote:
Picture Controls - similar results from calibrations in ACR?
Active D-Lighting - maybe sort-of doable in ACR although from what I understand it there's no substitute for the in-camera shadow curve applied
Vignette Control - I presume ACR does something similar in effects?
Auto Distortion Control - don't know whether the loss of this is a problem or not
High ISO NR - does ACR do a better job with this than the camera can do? seems like this one would be nice to have from the camera
All Settings from “Custom Setting Menu” - I'm not sure what other settings there may be
Focus Point Location in the frame - interesting to have but most times not critical
Only thing Lr reads is white balance and in a few cases some other thing.
My biggest complaint about Nikon manuals, is nothing talks about which settings affect raw data and which don't.
Turns out, other than a possible reduction in exposure via ADL, none of them affect the raw data - they only affect the creation of the jpeg(s) by camera firmware or Nikon software. (I mean, basic exposure settings affect raw data too, but none of the others do).
To me, this is a really good thing - shooting raw means all you have to worry about when shooting is getting the exposure right - yippee!: the rest you can worry about in post.
DavePinMinn wrote:
I may as well shut off most of the unique settings the D800 can adjust 'cause they won't be read anyhow.
Or just forget about them. Personally, I shoot with a contrast reduced & saturation increased neutral profile - all the time. This allows me to better assess raw exposure, highlight/shadow detail, and captured color.
DavePinMinn wrote:
I understand better now why there are people in other forums swearing by the Nikon software...
Yeah - they haven't mastered ACR! Seriously, ACR's lens corrections are very good, and color handling, and sharpening, and noise reduction, and ...
Nikon's editing toolset is far more extensive than ACR, but in terms of the basics, I think ACR is better.
DavePinMinn wrote:
Focus Point Location in the frame..
Yep - a point in favor of Nikon software to be sure.
ExifMeta can show focus point(s), in custom-friendly (text) format, but not on the image itself, so ya still gotta use your powers of visualization...
Rob

Blackberry Desktop Software Hangs on Startup

I installed the version that came with Curve 8330 (Verizon), on Dell Latitude 620 running Vista Ultimate. The Desktop started with the blank weavy screen but no menus. Hourglass. I waited for 30 minutes. No progress. I uninstalled, rebooted, downloaded the most current version 5.x.x.x from the support site, installed, rebooted, and started the software again and I received the same results. Get hourglass for over 30 minutes.
I can start Devise Manager and it shows that my device is properly connected.
I tried starting with Outlook running, and without outlook running.
Nothing seemed to make any difference. The Desktop does not start at all. It hangs before it even shows any menus or anything on the screen.
At this point i can not transfer my outlook contacts, Calendar, etc. to BB. How do I get the Desktop software to run?

Hi all, as the original post was many years ago, i certainly HOPE the original poster has found relief. But others like myself just encountering headaches trying to save data. The solution for me was to install an older version of DM (501_b049_multilanguage), and MagicBerry3 to get IDP files off my BB. When installing DM v 5 unselect Media Version during install. BUT after install is complete, go to Control Panel, Add/Remove Programs, find and delete DM Media Version. Turns out, it installs anyway, but is not seen in DM dashboard. Once you remove Media Version, the gray box with "connect device" warning disappears. Hope that saves someone 36 hours of headache!

Camera Problem with Curve 8330

Hi - I have a Curve 8330 and the camera has recently started acting strange. When I look at the screen to take a picture, the image is "posterized" (ie, it looks like an Andy Warhol poster, with strange colors).
I can find no setting to fix this...I have also tried both a hard and soft reboot, with no luck.
When I take a picture while looking at the "posterized" screen image, it does not save it, even though I have plenty of file space left.
Help! :-)

I am having the same issue as well (and done the same things), and have not been able to find anything either. I am not sure if this is now a hardware issue and not a software issue.

Deleted the natve Tasks Application that came with my BB Curve

I have mistakingly deleted the natve Tasks Application that came with my BB Curve and now need to reinstall it.
How do i go about doing that? Your assistance will be appreciated as i cannot live with out.
meeemo

You didn't state what model curve you have (8300, 8310, 8320, 8350, 8520?), but download from your carrier same OS that is on your device now (Look at Options > About, third line down beginning with a "v.4.xxx") and install that OS to your PC.
Then, run Desktop Manager > Application Loader, and check the box for the Task app.
1. If any post helps you please click the below the post(s) that helped you.
2. Please resolve your thread by marking the post "Solution?" which solved it for you!
3. Install free BlackBerry Protect today for backups of contacts and data.
4. Guide to Unlocking your BlackBerry & Unlock Codes
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Curve 8900 won't view surveilence cameras correctly

Hi!
I am a locksmith with Carl's Lock Shop in Co. Spgs, CO.
We view a particular web site with our shop cameras in order to sell our services...
The web site is www.videoalert.net
You will automatically be re-directed to thier mobile site...
should say "mobile access" or "mobile viewer" at the top...
Enter user name ppp and password pp then click next...
Choose either rover1 camera or pan and tilt (camera 2 is is disabled)...
Now the image, if you have any other Black Berry other than a Curve 8900, will update every few seconds with still pics...(no Blank screen between pics)
If your un-fortunate enough to have been suckered into buying a Curve 8900 you will get one image for about five seconds then instead of refreshing it just goes to blank screen...(if it does refresh it will just blink a half secord glimpse of the pic every thirty seconds or so)
T-Mobile Black Berry/ PDA support is no help at all...(have tried every setting in the phone and some settings only an **bleep** would attempt)
Have been connected with Black Berry support to no avail also...(if 877-255-2377 case # 7151298 was a legit deal( they seemed kinda dumb)
If you let the screen saver come on it will bring up a permanent pic that will not refresh...(Same thing as turning off java script in browser config)
It's painfully obvious to even a moron like myself that this new Black Berry has a different Java scpript or operating system that is not compatible with this particular 3rd party web site, that neither T-Mobile nor Black Berry are responsible for...Duh
I don't need them to tell me that...
I figured that out before I called them and spent hours trying to fix the un-fixable...
Dumb as I am, I know when I have bought a "Pig-In-A-Poke".
Oh Yeah the Streaming video on this piece of junk skips and locks up unless your on Wi-Fi so don't believe the "Hype" about how good it plays...
"IF" anybody has any ideas on what will fix this thing...
Call me direct at (phone number edited out for privacy)
Thnx,
Stang
problem not solved...
cliked solve button inadvertantly...
Message Edited by Stanghurd on 06-22-2009 04:21 PM
Message Edited by Jonathan_K on 06-23-2009 01:42 PM
Stang

Hi and Welcome to the Forums!
This area of the forums is for Welcomes and Introductions only...no device support here. Your post will shortly be moved to the proper place so that the right experts can see it and provide assistance:
http://supportforums.blackberry.com/rim/board?board.id=8900
Good luck!
Message Edited by sdgardne on 06-22-2009 12:40 PM
Occam's Razor nearly always applies when troubleshooting technology issues!
If anyone has been helpful to you, please show your appreciation by clicking the button inside of their post. Please click here and read, along with the threads to which it links, for helpful information to guide you as you proceed. I always recommend that you treat your BlackBerry like any other computing device, including using a regular backup schedule...click here for an article with instructions.
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Lightroom 2.6 trial version camera raw tone curve questions + 4 more

1- How do you reduce the 100% point on the curve (upper right) and raise the 0% point black portion as can been executed in CS4 photoshop bridge camera raw? Example I want a photo adjusted to have a 5% dot value in the white area and a 95% dot value in the black area. Note: CS4 bridge camera raw can lower the white point and raise the black point by pulling the points up or down.
2- After cataloging three internal drives how does one do a search across the three(3) drives simultaneously to find a file name to look for redundancy or whatever without launching each catalog separately?
3- How can an initially created catalog name be changed after the catalog is created?
4- How can a file or several files be added to a catalog after the catalog is created - is there a way to immediately refresh to show newly added files?
5- Is there a way to show Illustrator CS4 files in lightroom 2.6 or a utility to convert them to acceptable LR formats to be visible?

vic,
1. You can do this natively in the LR3 beta 2, but not easily in LR2. You can edit the curve in Camera Raw and save it as a preset, then import that into LR. I don't know the details, but I've seen posts here that talk about it.
2. You can't. That's why it's lots better to have only one catalogue. The images can be spread across as many drives as you want, and that one catalogue can keep track of them all.
3. Use your operating system to rename the catalogue file and its associated top-level folder of previews.
4. You can Import or Synchronize.
5. LR will just deal with JPG, TIFF, DNG, PSD, and various raw files. I don't know of a utility that will convert Illustrator files to one of those formats. If I were you, I'd search in Google.
Hal

Camera Raw - Enable RGB Tone Curves

In Camera Raw, the Tone Curve Channel selection is disabled. How can I enable it to allow me to adjust specific colors in Camera Raw?
I’m using Photoshop CS5, Camera Raw version 6.7.0.339 on a Windows Vista 64 bit system, and my camera is a Nikon D90.
Thanks,
Jack

I don't think you can...ACR 6.7 was a crossover version tho have compatibility with LR 4 when it was released, as a result it was set to allow processing of certain features that were in LR 4 (and ACR 7). While the RGB curves show up dimmed, I don't think ACR 6.7 allows actually adjusting the RGB curves. I think the only way to get them is update to CS6 and ACR 7.x.

BB CURVE 8320 CAMERA/VIDEO FAILURE

MY BB CURVE DEVELOPED A PROBLEM WITH THE CAMERA/VIDEO. IF I OPEN EITHER ONE, THE PHONE FREEZES AND A BLACK SCREEN APPEARS COVERING 50 PERCENT OF THE SCREEN. TO REACTIVATE THE PHONE, I HAVE TO DETACH THE BATTERY AND RESTART THE PHONE. I HAVE REINSTALLED THE SOFTWARE DIRECTLY FROM BB BUT IT DOES NOT SOLVE THE PROBLEM
THANK YOU FOR YOUR KIND ASSISTANCE
BB12

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tanzim
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Camera on Curve

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