Captured P2 over FCP...turned out ot be a problem

I want to apologize immediately for parts of this post...there are a couple of third parties involved in this problem, and I completely understand if you cannot help me...I tried all other possible sites, so this is my last attempt.
We are editing material shot on the panasonic HVX200. We transferred the material from the P2 over FCP to a GRaid. Now Im in Vienna editing with an AVID user who has the problem that the mxf files are not recognized; it tells us that the files are not valid MXF files.
Does anyone know why this is happening...we are starting to wonder if it is a problem with FCP and Avid or possible with the MacDrive...
Thank you in advance
Magdalena

You shouldn't be importing the footage thru FCP for Avid. You should simply copy the cards onto folders on a hard drive and give that hard drive to the editor using the Avid. But I am confused, because you say that you imported the footage thru FCP, yet say that the Avid has trouble reading the MXF files? When FCP imports, it converts to Quicktime.
Please let us know the exact workflow you used to get the information from the cards to the Avid.
I wonder...since this is an Avid issue why are you posting on the FCP boards? Try posting here:
http://forums.creativecow.net/cgi-bin/newviewposts.cgi?forumid=193
Shane

Similar Messages

Every time I use the internet the pages keep reloading every 10-20 seconds. worked with my internet provider for over a year thinking it was their fault, but it turns out it's my computer. Can anybody help? Thanks.

Every time I'm using the internet, my pages reload every 10-20 seconds. Very aggravating. I worked with my internet provider for a year thinking it was their fault, but it turns out to be my computer, not the internet provider. Can anybody tell me why this is happening? Thank you.

Hi Mary,
Open Console in Applications>Utilities & see if there are any clues or repeating messages when this happens.

Can't capture video with FCP 5.1

Hi All,
Here is the case. I'm trying to capture the video from my newly baught Sony HDR FX7. Here are the specs:
I've connected it thru Firewire 400 on the back of my G5.
G5 660GB HD, 5.5Gb RAM
In Easy set up I've selected HDV-1080i60
When I go to file-log and capture, it connects to camcorder and says VTR OK on the bottom of the screen.
When capturing the video (after I've connected to log and capture I push play on camcorder and then click capture now on FCP) I could see on the capture screen and my video running but here an there a green line would cross the film and then it would slow down for a 10th of a second and line would run accouss the capture window again. The type of lines you'd get in the old movie? .
After I've captured all 5 sigments I had on the tape and when I tried to play (I went to file-import-file, I've selected the captured clip from my internal HD where the FCP put the files). The file opened in browser. And then it open in preview window of FCP. At this point the clip that is 1 minute long would play for 2-4 second and end there. The quality of it was also very, very poor (and I filed it at HD 1080i.
So, the quality was really poor. It was the case with all 5 clips I've captured from FX7. All of them 2-4 sec. long and very poor quality.
Now, if I try to play the clip from camcorder and select "in" and "out" points and then batch capture via the same log and capture window, it would tell me that it's "unable to locate timecode, the timecode appears to be missing from the tape. Please verify that tape is timecoded correctly"
So, I was reading this forum and did this:
Tried to go to user preferences and set "on time code brake" select "make new clip"
Nothing helped.
Also it's worth noting. When I push play on camcorder and click capture now, new window comes up and it says on the bottom of it "searching for meadia..." press esc to stop or something like that. May be it's not finding it?
Also, when I first filmed with this camera, I would stop after every clip, turn off the camera, plug it into tv and preview what I've filmed.
Either way, the few seconds of the clips that I"ve got are very bad quality. When I view the clips on my TV and monitore connected thru 3 colored cables, the video was ok, I'd even say good, just too much noice in it. But quality of capture is horrible.
If anyone is readying this, could you please give me some ideas where to go with this. I don't know what to do from here

Question is answered

Capturing issues using FCP + camcorder

About a month ago, the last time I used FCP (HD) extensively, I ran into problems when trying to use my camcorder to capture footage.
If I had my camcorder plugged in via Firewire with FCP open, FCP would lock up, but immediately return to normal once I powered off the camera. Also, if I had the camera plugged in and turned on when I launched FCP, FCP would lock up yet again.
Now, just today... it looks like FCP is not even recognizing the camera. I am trying to access Log and Capture with the camera turned on, but FCP is not detecting the camera at all, it seems. ('Unable to initialize video deck' error.)
What's wrong? Is it something with FCP? Or is it possible my firewire cable has decided to crap out?

QT 7.0.4.
Ok, I reinstalled 7.0.4... same problem. (FCP not recognizing camcorder.) I downgraded to 7.0.1. Same problem.
Also, Disk Utility has a conflict with iTunes, so I can't repair permissions (http://www.macworld.com/forums/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB1&Number=38 0025&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1)
What else could I possibly do?
And, strangely (?), I used a totally separate machine with a DV deck to capture my footage, and the actual QT files are corrupt when I attempt to play them back. The majority of them lock up when I try to play them, and I cannot copy them from my one external HD to the other.
Latest version of QT 6 or 7?
On the chance you have 7 running, there is a high
probability you have a compromised QT installation.
Time to do a full quicktime reinstall.
Go to /library/receipts and delete any files
that say Quicktime followed by a number e.g.
Quicktime703.pkg
Go to the
Apple quicktime site and download the appropriate
version of Quicktime to your hard drive.
Run the Quicktime installer.
Repair Disk Permissions for your System Disk (Disk
Utility > Select the system disk > Repair Disk
Permissions)
Reboot
Good luck.

Batch Capture Randomly Changes In and Out Points

I'm editing a documentary on Final Cut Pro 5.0.
Using a SONY DSR-11 firewire deck.
I logged sets of clips and then batch captured them. I DIDN'T select add handles in the batch capture tool. Some clips, as they're captured, change their in and out points. Sometimes by two frames early, sometimes by two frames late, and sometimes not at all. Several clips even stopped captured with an out point twenty seconds earlier than what I'd logged. The result is that I have clips with media start and media end points that are not in what I wanted. There seems to be no rhyme or reason whatsoever to this.
Any ideas what's going on?
Many Thanks if you do!
Micah
G4 Mac OS X (10.4.6) Dual 1.25 Processors

Check to see if your tapes have NDF time code.
If you play a tape with NDF TC using Log & Capture, the current time display will defaut to DF until the tape palys forward long enough for the current time field to update. It is posible to log NDF tapes as DF, in which case the timecode values can be incorrectly re-converted if recapturing.
Also, If you initiate a batch capture from the browser, FCP will default to DF, and not be able to update the TC format to NDF duriing the batch. The workaround here has been to cue up NDF tapes with L&C, and start the batch capture while L&C is still open and showing NDF TC.
However, upon upgrading to FCP5 last year, I found that even observing all these precautions and steps, FCP would still shorten the out point of my captured clips on NDF tapes. I was capturing a feature film that came from the UK, and so the starting time on the master was 10 hours instead of 1 hour. When the DF/NDF error occurred and shortened the out point of my 2-hour clip, it did it by several minutes instead of several seconds, because of the starting TC on the tape. In that case, I wound up adding several minutes to my out point and recapturing the end over again.
I haven't experienced this issue lately, but it comes up every now and then.

Unable to Log and Capture AND make FCP a boot disk

I am unable to go into Log and Capture mode in FCP 4. I can capture from firewire using I movie just fine so I know the sytem works. The minute I open Log and Capture from within FCP (with the JVC Mini-DV camera hooked up thru Firewire), it crashes. Help. I upgraded from FCP 3 to FCP 4 a couple years ago and it hasn't worked right since. Would re-installing the FCP 4 upgrade work? Also, my system works very sluggish. Please explain to me how I would make the veersion of FCP 4 my boot disk. I realize that I can't have the FCP 4 application and the media on the same drive but is there a way to partition one of my drives and make FCP one of the startup disks? Hope this isn't too confusing. Thanks.

First off, FCP 4 was darn unstable. FCP 4.5 is a free upgrade and is STILL the most stable version out there. FCP 5 is getting there.
Secondly, try:
Shane's Stock Tip Mantra: If the program was working fine, and now isn't, or just isn't working the way it should, the first things to do are:
1) Trash your FCP preferences. Download the appropriate version of FCP Rescue at http://fcprescue.andersholck.com/ and run it.
2) Open the Disk Utility and Repair Permissions.
As for partitioning the hard drive, that isn't necessary. Hasn't been since FCP 3.
Shane

I can't get my projects in Final Cut Pro X to work in 1080p. One turned out to be 1080p but I did everything the same as the ones that did not. ***? Any ideas?

I can't get my projects in Final Cut Pro X to work in 1080p. One turned out to be 1080p by "accident" but I did everything the same as the ones that did not. Same camera/settings (shot in 60i). I didn't really care cause I had to get some stuff done, but now I know I "can" dp them in HD but can't figure why the one went up to YT in full HD (and made a copy in my movies folder. That one project acted totally different than the other 5 but I didn't change anything. Can't get it to work again. ***? Any ideas?

No problem! If you're worried about more complicated edits (which in all honesty, should work no matter how many clips you select or how many effects are attached to them), you can always compound a clip first, and then copy it over after if you're afraid of lots of track clutter getting in the way. Not sure if they would break apart afterwards though if you wanted them to.

Capture worked now it's out of sync

As a new FCP user, I am capturing my a/v from a Cannon 2R50MC. Source tape is recorded as 12 bit and the capture preset is edited (see details below), I am capturing to my internal and copying them to external after capture. It I don't I get a timecode break error message and it aborts.
The project I am working on has almost 200 source tapes and I captured my first 12 with out much of a glitch.
On tape 13 my audio and video are out of sync. It does not drift out of sync, it is out of sync from the first frame.
I tried a couple things and then decided to clean the tape heads of the camcorder (using it for playback, it is same camcorder that recorded the source) and it captured tape 13 in sync. On to tape 14 and out of sync again. I changed the device control preset from firewire ntsc to firewire ntsc basic, cleaned the tape head and 14 was in sync. On to tape 15 and out of sync again. I tried unchecking User Pref sync audio capture and capture preset of mix 4 channels instead of 1st 2 channels. These things have not helped.
At the end of the captures that are not in sync I get an Analyzing DV Audio window that stays open and working quite a while "Validating Audio Data."
I have tried capturing 10 min at a time and the first capture was in sync and the second capture of 10 min is out of sync.
I did try capturing a very early tape in the series (probably the least valuable to the project) and it worked in sync. Now I am noticing that the later tapes were taped using a wireless mic and the earlier audio was from the camcorder's built in mic. Could this be the problem? This does not explain the first 12 captures working as they were recorded with the wireless mic.
My A/V settings are:
Seq preset: DV NTSC 48 kHz
Cap preset: DV NTSC 32 kHz (copied and edited from DV NTSC 48 kHz) (Device: DV Audio, Input: First 2 channels, Format 32.000 kHz 16 bit 2 chan)
Device Control: FireWire NTSC
Video Playback: Apple FireWire NTSC (720 x 480)
Audio Playback: FireWire DV (also tested default with no better results.
Does anyone have a reason/solution to why it was working and now isn't?
What about work arounds. Can I resync the tapes and then reliably make clips and edit the video with those clips?
ALSO:
The camcorder window says: 12 bit and Stereo1, should there be a stereo capture setting, I believe I'm capturing in mono?
I typed a lot of this up and posted yesterday but no solutions yet, sorry bout posting twice, I'm desperate for a solution, running out of time, ya'know all the usual constraints.
Thanks ahead of time. T.

It works I don't know why...
I'm not complaining but maybe someone out there can explain it to me.
I am capturing through this procedure:
I test a one minute clip (arbitrary time length). I get an Analyzing DV Audio window that is Validating Audio Data. I cancel out of that window (if I don't cancel out of the window and view the clip when it's done it is out of sync.) I do a second clip using the same in and out points and do not get the Analyzing DV Audio window and the test clip is sync. I then set up a full tape capture (up to an hour) using in and out points. It captures in sync.
I was thinking it was working because I was starting the in point well into the beginning of the tape 45 sec to 1 min, but through more tests I've been able to capture using an in point of 10 sec. into the tape.
Just curious if this has happened to anyone else or why it might work.
If it's voodoo PLEASE don't break the spell.
Happy New Year, T

I was having problems burning DVDs' fro iDVD and it turned out my burner is at fault I have a 27 inch iMac using a OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5680H. Where can I buy a replacement in UK?

I was having problems burning DVDs' from iDVD and it turned out my burner is at fault.
I have a 27 inch iMac using a OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5680H. Where can I buy a replacement in UK? I have seen these with SATA is this the correct cable for my mac?
I have also tried the Mac superdrive but my imac wont recognise it as it's been configured for macbook air and mini mac. I know I can "make" it work by doing something or other in com.apple/plist, but dont want to mess about in there.
I'm also told an external drive would work but does "mac compatible" mean only for air and mini as their own superdrive is or all macs?
Any help appreciated before I convince myself mac is no better than windows pc!

Thanks but this didn't really help.
I can buy the drives at a dozen places but none of them seem to know what connection is correct (SATA etc) and that includes the apple store. It was the store who told me buy the superdrive and all my problems would be over. Wrong! It isn't recognised by imac as it's confifured for air and mini mac. Only way to make it work is as i said in earlier post. (Would you be happy buying a car you were told would start and then discover you have to open the bottome and fiddle to make it go?)
The apple store I would not even consider taking it to. Days without the pc, over priced and don't have a good reputation for actually fixing things!
But thanks

Images in my FrameMaker 10-sourced Robohelp Web Help project are turning out as blank JPEGS appearing as blank spaces in the final output. How can I fix this?

I'm attempting to create online help sourced from a FrameMaker 10 book using Robohelp 9 and Web Help (primary layout).
The text is interspersed with numeorus small icons which, in the FrameMaker documents, are .bmp images inserted into anchored frames in the lines of text.
Most of these icons were imported by reference into the FrameMaker book's chapters. Some were copied from another FrameMaker book and pasted into the present book.
Many of these images are turning out blank in the finished Help project.
Robohelp seems to convert these images into JPEGS.
In the source FrameMaker book, the images which appear OK in the Help project have Object Properties including: Facets: FrameVector JPEG ... Referenced File: No File
The images which appear blank have different object properties there: Facets: DIB ... Referenced File: (address of the image's source file)
How can I fix this and make all of the images appear in the Online Help?

Sorry, Jeff. I missed the key word in your instructions. Well, I did the import and still no luck. I'm getting the exact same results with the same images. (In some cases, I'm even getting hidden conditional text from the FM document body showing up in the image's frame instead of the image! See below.) This is bizarre behavior, but it's not new with the import. It is happening both in the linked and imported WebHelp with the same exact images. (Just another piece to complicate the puzzle.) So we have some jpeg images that are blank, and a few that are glitchy. From what I can tell, the commonality, besides the fact that all these new images are in jpeg format instead of gif format, is that all the blank and glitchy images are in a text inset. I'm beginning to think maybe RH just doesn't support text insets at all.
Arnis, I'll have to ask my colleague how she created the images next week when she's back from vacation. I have no clue if there are any differences between the jpegs and why some are showing up correctly. What do you mean by "compression type or level?" Are you asking about the resolution (high, medium, low) she chose when saving the images, or which program she used to do the screen capture and editing? (We have Adobe Photoshop CS5 and FM 11).
My next step is to copy-paste all the content from the text insets into my FM document (in the book I am linking) and re-render to see if that solves the problem. It will make single-sourcing impossible because I'll have to copy-paste the new content and images my colleague creates into my document each time we do an update, but oh well.
Here is an example of a glitchy image in RH:
And here is what it looks like in FM:
So bizarre!

Business trying to take product pictures, turning out dark

Let me preface this by saying no one who works here has had experience with photography and any guidance would be much appreciated.
We just got the Rebel t5i to help us get better pictures of our instruments and other merchandise for our website. I've spent 3 days reading about all the various settings of the camera (ISO, shutter speed, exposure, aperature, filters, lenses) and different lighting options.
The set up we currently have is as follows:
4 par 64 lighting cans with diffusing gels, (2 on an 10 ft. adjustable tree stand, the other 2 on individual adjustable stands) charcoal backdrop. It is important to note that we have this set up in a corner of the store so we're working with being able to light from the front, 1 side and above.
We're having a few problems.
(This is after much trial and error with settings. The best one I was able to find was on Manual mode, 1/250 shutter speed, f 5.6, iso 800, aeb exposure and tungsten filter to help with the yellowing due to the florescent light)
1. We can't get the camera to produce an accrate color profile of the items consistently. In the first picture, you can see that the color is more yellow and it's even distorting around the edges. The second picture is more accurate in terms of what the color looks like in natural light but we were never able to get that when we were shooting the guitar closer up.
2. For black guitars or guitars with black edges, we're losing the edges no matter what we try to do with the lighting.
Do we need more light? or just the light we have being reflected better? different lense on the camera? Any advice would be seriously appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
Jamie
Kentucky Music Company

Gels don't "diffuse" -- they merely change the color of the light. Sometimes you change the color for an effect (e.g. light a neutral background with a colored "gel" and put a different light on the subject.
For example... if your background were farther away and a neutral "white" then you could dedicate a light to the background with a colored gel so that the background color always complements the product color (complementary colors can usually be found by using a color wheel). This basically gives you the ability to make your background any color you want without physically changing the background.
Another good reason to put some distance between product and background is to create better separation of the product. The edges of the product can now pick up reflections that you can control and you wont have a black against black problem that you're having here. It also allows the background to fall outside the depth of field (the range at which things appear to be nicely focused) -- this allows you to deliberately blur the background and yet have a tack-sharp subject for even better subject isolation.
I can see the shadows are casting hard edges on the background -- which isn't a good look. When we talk about "diffusing" a light, what we really mean is that we make the shadows edges soft and gradual. If light originates from a pin-point source, you get a well-defined shadow. It has a hard edge. E.g. when you stand outside on a sunny day and look at your own shadow, you can see the shape of your body on the ground because that's considered a pin-point light source (the sun's angular diameter is only about 1/2º from edge to edge.) If, on the other hand, you shoot the light through a very broad diffusing material (such as a "shoot through" umbrella which has a diameter several feet across, NOW the light appears to originate from the entire surface area of the fabric on the umbrella. That nice broad light source means you don't get shadows with hard edges... instead things gently change from light to shadow and it's a much better look.
As I stare at the knobs and pickups on the front of your first image, I can see a very definite shadow with defined edges -- which we don't want. This is because your light source appears to originate from a small area (basically a "point source"). There are many ways to diffuse light... shoot-through umbrellas, reflective umbrellas, soft-boxes, etc. will all cuase the light to appear to originate from a very broad source.
You also mentioned you are struggling with white balance and getting the colors to show accurately.
The easiest way to handle this (and nail it) is to use something called a "gray card". When you use a white balance setting on the camera, that's just a good "guess" at the right white balance setting. But when you use a gray card you can be sure you actually have the correct white balance... every time.
The "card" is just a surface that's painted gray. But not just any gray will work. This gray is formulated to be guaranteed to be "color neutral" and the camera and post processing software expect this. There are two ways to use it.
If you shoot JPEG images (I always only shoot RAW) then you place the gray card in the IDENTICAL lighting that you will use to photograph your subject. In the photo below, I'd put the gray card right in front of the guitar. Center the card in the camera's viewfinder and get in close (it doesn't need to fill the whole camera frame, but it should cover most of the middle of the frame.). The camera doesn't even need to be focused (its almost better if it's not focused). Take a photo of the card.
If you shoot RAW, you just need one photo that has the gray card in it -- anywhere. It just needs to be in the identical light conditions as your product. Remove the gray card after you take this shot and then shoot the rest of your images as you normally would. This "gray card" image will serve as a reference image and will be used later.
Since the room lights are not technical a neutral "white" color (the light has a colored tint to it) it will alter the color of the gray on the card. This is what we want because know we have an object for which the camera actually KNOWS the true "color" and yet it can see the "apparent" color (caused by the tint of the light) and this lets the camera (or computer software) make the color correction to get the colors back to true color.
If you shoot JPEG you can use something called "custom white balance" (CWB). You'll go into the camera's white balance menu, pick the "custom white balance" (CWB) option. It will prompt you to select the image on your memory card which contains the gray card shot. Find and select that image. The camera will then analyze the apparent color of the card (compared to what it knows is the true color of the card) and will adjust the colors by subtracing the color tint from the image. Now... EVERY shot you take with that particular CWB setting will have the identical color correction applied. Just note that if you change your lights, move your product to a different spot, etc. then you have to shoot a new gray-card image and re-select it as the new CWB reference image.
If you shoot RAW (my preferred method) the camera doesn't do anything as you shoot... just make sure you captured one image with the gray card and then shoot the rest of your shots without the card.
When you unload the images into your computer software, you'll find the image with the gray card and you'll use your "white balance" tool (Adobe Lightroom is recommended if you shoot RAW -- there are others.) The tool will usually have an eye-dropper icon. Pick the icon and it'll prompt you to go pick a pixel from your image. Go pick a pixel on that gray-card you have in the photo. The software will apply white balance correction based on the gray card and that will fix that one image to have accurate white balance. Having done this, you can now "sync" that white balance correction to every single shot you took in your photo shoot (provided they were shot in the identical lighting). You've now applied white balance correction to the entire shoot.
I should warn you that the colors on your computer monitor are probably not accurate unless you own a color calibration tool and have calibrated the monitor. I use a Colormunki Photo (by X-Rite). The Datacolor Spyder is also popular. It has software that changes the color of your display to various calibration colors so the tool can determine how accurately your monitor displays color and it then creates a "profile" for your monitor so that the colors on your screen are true to real-life colors (otherwise when you think you have the color correct on YOUR screen, it may look wrong on someone OTHER screen.)
There is a little more to it... but that gets color pretty close. It turns out your camera may have various levels of sensitive to saturations of reds, greens, and blues that vary. So X-Rite makes a device called the "Color Checker". It has a card with colored squares on it -- you photograph the card, white balance it, and then pull up the image in their software and they can detect that even though the white balance is correct, certain color saturations may still need some tweaking -- and the software applies these adjustments for you. In the end you can be confident that the colors are bang-on accurate. If anyone else thinks the colors are wrong... it's their montior which is out of whack... not yours.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

My wifi button is frezon and I tried turning my phone off for a period of time and reset my phone but the button is still frezon it want slide over to turn on my wifi. Is there any other way to fix without going to apple to get it fixed?

My wifi button is frezon and I tried turning my phone off for a period of time and reset my phone but the button is still frezon it want slide over to turn on my wifi. Is there any other way to fix without going to apple to get it fixed?

Hey Posada143, You can still try the rice thing, but do not expect much, as roaminggnome has stated. The rice only works if you do it ASAP and leave the iPod off-- do not attempt use, turn on or charge until it is completely dried out. This is probably academic at this point but remember this for the next time: The drying can take 10 days. You put the uncooked rice and iPod in a sealed bag, change the rice every couple of days. This creates a low humidity environment and draws the moisture out of the iPod, but it takes time. Turn your iPod on to earlier, and you run the risk of shorting out, damaging the components inside. Even if done correctly it can spotty. If you do get the iPod to work (and this may require Resetting, Restoring or attempting to place it in DFU recover mode) the first thing you do is make backups, because you never know how long it will continue to work. As for your pictures, if you can't get your iPod to work, you can try data retrieval companies, however; there is no guaranty it will work and it tends to be very expensive. In the future get in the habit of as making backups, because you just don't know. And invest in and use a water tight case. Hope this helps, Good luck. Cheers.

TS1559 my iphone 4s version 7.0.4 wifi turned out grey. i restored my iphone also but didnt work, what shall i do???

my iphone 4s version 7.0.4 wifi turned out grey. i restored my iphone also but didnt work, what shall i do???

ChrisJ4203, thanks very much for your input. I don't mean to turn this post into an endless debate, but frankly I am still having a hard time believing that the WiFi died as a result of a hardware failure.
My logic might be flawed, but here it is:
While the iPhone 4S got very hot when wirelessly downloading and installing iOS 7.0.4 over the WiFi network, the WiFi chip and antenna had to be functional to complete the wireless iOS update. Apple was very clear that iOS 7.0.4 is too large to download and install via cellular service. Accordingly it would appear that any hardware failure had to occur in the few minutes between the download/installation of iOS 7.0.4 and its first use. That window of opportunity is incredibly small in an otherwise flawless hardware performance. I am not a big believer in long shot coincidences, so a WiFi hardware malfunction seems highly improbable to me, but not impossible. A firmware/iOS conflict still seems more plausible to me.
I also don't read much into Apple's "out-of-warranty" replacement offer at $199. AT&T tells me that anyone walking in off the street (with or without a hardware or iOS malfunction) would receive the same offer.
I appreciate that some iPhone 4S users did not experience any WiFi issues when they updated to iOS 7.0.4, but such difference could easily be explained if Apple used more than one WiFi chip and/or firmware in the iPhone 4S series. Such an explanation would also account for iOS 7.0.4 (and 7.0.6) not recognizing the WiFi chip after the iOS update.
Still perplexed, but thanks again for your kind efforts to help.
Wonder if I can limp along long enough to spend my money on an Apple iPhone 6 ... but then again I don't want to be anyone's beta-tester.
I am tempted to switch to a Samsung Galaxy or some other smartphone as long as I will be buying new accessories, but frankly I don't want to waste my time learning a new OS or core apps.

Captured Video's Audio is out of Sync

I have captured a MiniDV tape
at NTSC/48KHz via Firewire
and the Video's Audio is out of sync
in both the Viewer and Canvas
The original tape playback is fine
so I'm not sure why this is happening
My Capture Presets are correct and
I re-captured the same clip twice and
the same Sync problem persists
Please advise, thanks

Silal,
I noticed that your response, here was based on a 32 Khz audio setting. Can you elaborate a little more on why this would tend to throw audio and video out of synch?
I am capturing DV NTSC, 32 Khz video and audio, (via. mini DV tape) The clip that I am importing is one, long, 60 minute clip. Even though I have created a new setup that indicates the audio will be captured at 32 Khz, I am finding serious video/audio synch problems towards the end of the clip.
Typically I use the DV NTSC firewire, 48Klhz setting when I create a new project but I don't usually capture long clips like this. Can you offer up any suggestions on what I might try to remedy this synch problem?
The material that I am using is an already edited piece that was dumped onto miniDV tape. I need to re-capture this material to FCP so that I can re-order its segment positioning for a new DVD. The tapes have solid time code but I am getting those annoying synch issues when I review the footage after capture.
Where else should I be making adjustments to my project settings other than where I have already made them? Thanks.
Steve

When I download pictures from my camera, they turn out a nice big size in iPhoto; other pictures that have been e-mailed to me or imported from older libraries/other computers show up small. Why is this, and how can I make them all the larger size?

When I download pictures from my digital camera into iPhoto, they turn out a nice large size (usually almost the full screen), but when somebody e-mails me pictures and I import them into iPhoto, or when I transfer old photos from an old library into my new iPhoto library, they turn out very small--not exactly thumbnail-size, but too small to use for calendars or photo books. I don't know much about computers, so I don't know how this happened. Also, I can't find any discernible pattern to why this happens with some pictures and not others--ie: what I described above is usually true, but I have had e-mailed photos or old photos turn out the way I want them, which is in the larger size in iPhoto. Why is this happening, and how can I make all the pictures the larger size?

Some mail programs, including Apple Mail, can reduce the size of images that are attached to a message. It's happening at the sender's end, and all you can do is ask the sender for a larger image.

Captured P2 over FCP...turned out ot be a problem

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