Change to Best Quality error

No, this is not yet another post asking which really is the setting to get the best quality DVD.
My project runs about 1.5 hours so when I try to burn a disc image I get the error message telling me it's too big for one DVD so change the preference setting to Best Quality. The problem is, the preference setting is ALREADY set at Best Quality.
So I close it out and try to burn again and get the same error.
What am I doing wrong? Please help!

OK I figured out my error.
I was changing the preferences in the program settings - which changed NEW (but not current) projects. Once I went to project on the toolbar and changed settings it worked fine.
Live and learn.

Similar Messages

IMovie to iDVD: Error: Need to change to Best quality

I think this must be a bug in iLife 06, create a project in iMovie 6, it will be less then 2 hours long but longer then one hour. Share out to iDVD and you get an error that the files are too large and you should change to Best Quality. Change is made to Best quality but the error still returns, there is no way to get rid of this error with the current iDVD project. Solution: Export the iMovie project (I always use Full Quality) and then drag into the iDVD theme of your choice and it will burn. This happens on my Macs at home and all of the Macs I manage at the university with iLife 06. Has anyone else seen this problem?

But you didn't say you made the change in both places. This needed to be done by someone a couple of days ago.
You can also try this, but you'll have to reset Prefs:
This frequently helps solve some problems. Quit iDVD. Search for the file named com.apple.iDVD.plist and trash it. (A new one will be created next launch of iDVD.) Or look in: User/Library/Preferences. This may solve project loading errors too. Restart and use Disk Utility to Repair Permissions.

Multiplexing Error Problem vs. Best Quality

I've been trying to make the .img file for a 29 minute iMovie which consist of 288 photos + beginning and end. I imported the 288 photos at 5 sec (no burns effect), created chapter marks, added audio and was able to create .img OK using Best Quality, as that's what I've always used in the past - many times. I added 4 sec subtitles to about half the photos which meant it created a second photo 1 sec long. When I tried to create the .img again, I got the multiplexing error. I've tried all combinations without success, UNTIL I tried Best Performance, and it created the .img file. I have over 40GB disk space, but only 786MB memory. All photos in iMovie really slows down iMovie after about 40-50 minutes worth, so I'm guessing memory availability might be an issue. I've done all the other things usually posted - run Onyx, delete iDVD.plist, restart before burn, etc. So why does a 29 minute iMovie of all photos create the iDVD .img file on Best Performance and not on Best Quality????. Suggestions appreciated. Thanks Terry
Power Mac G4 1 GHz Dual Mac OS X (10.4.8)

The size I gave on the photos was before they were imported to iMovie.
One of the problem photos was a scanned photo using a Canon N1240 scanner, which has since died and the other was with an Olympus D-450 digital camera. Both were edited (size, cropping, color, brightness, etc) in Adobe Photo Elements V3. Most of the time I import the pictures (in groups) into iMovie using the Import command, but sometimes I just drag them in. I do NOT use iPhoto. I've done several thousand photos this way (my wife is into genealogy)and I have created multiple DVDs of current family and family history. The problem photo had been used in other DVDs without problem. In one test I ran on this particular movie including the two problem images, the .img file was created OK until I added subtitles to each image in iMovie. I've sometimes had problems editing subtitles in that it deletes the image and adds the title to the next image. I do an Edit UNDO and then move the image to which the title is to be edited over 2 images, click the update and then move the image back to it's original position when update finished. It's annoying, but works. Don't remember if I did a title edit to the problem images or not. I think you're right in that one of many things could have happened when the image was imported. Right now I'm thinking something may have gone wrong when I added or edited the subtitle. Just wish the iDVD and iMovie error codes could be made more specific so it would be easier to identify and fix the problem photo(s). Thanks for your response. Terry

Getting Error - Exporting Sequence (FCP 5) using 150 min - Best Quality

Keep getting error trying to export a sequence in Final Cut Pro 5 using Compressor settings DVD 150 min Best Quality. It's exporting the audio files, but not the MPEG2 video file.
The sequence is about 2 hours and 15 minutes.
Any ideas? (FYI: THIS IS FOR A DVD MASTER THAT WILL GET DUPLICATED FOR CONSUMERS)
CJ
310-228-8266

I am having the same problem. Did you find a solution?
Thanks

How to export and reimport clips maintaining best quality?

I'd like to ask a few questions.
(1) I have several subclips in FCE that I would like to export, so I can import them back into FCE as individual clips, separate from the original capture. I would also like the option to use the exported clips in iMovie project. The most important thing is to save the clips at the highest possible quality. I ran into a problem when trying to import the clips back into FCE.
First, I tried exporting clips using File>Export>Using Quicktime Conversion... with the following options:
Video Settings:
Compression Type H.264
Quality: Best (the slider in the Settings window I dragged all the way to the right for Best quality)
Key frame rate: 24
Frame Reordering: yes
Encoding mode: multi-pass
Audio Settings:
Format: Uncompressed
Sample rate: 48 kHz
Sample size: 16
Channels: 2
Prepare for Internet Streaming <unchecked>
The clip was saved to disk. I didn't open or modify the clip at all.
Then I tried using File>Import>Files... but when I tried to import it, I got this error:
"File Error: 1 file(s) recognized, 0 access denied, 1 unknown."
So this is the problem I'm experiencing. Can't re-import the clip into FCE (it imports into iMovie fine, though)
Questions: Am I using "wrong" settings? Why is this happening? How can I export and reimport clips while maintaining best video and audio quality?
(2) A couple related questions: Some of my original source video was recorded at 12-bit quality (32 kHz). I know 16-bit is best (48 kHz) but the camera I used came with factory default 12-bit (and as a novice I didn't know to change it until several months later).
So here are my questions.
(a) If I export these clips using audio export settings at 48 kHz instead of 32 kHz, would that cause any problems?
(b) Would those clips then be recognized by FCE and iMovie as having 48 kHz audio even though it was originally recorded at 32 kHz? (I know the quality will be no better, but I've read somewhere that using 32 kHz audio can cause some problems with out-of-sync audio, particularly in iMovie. My hope is the new clip with the 48 kHz audio will circumvent such problems.)
Thanks for any assistance you can provide.
PowerMac G5 Quad 2.5 GHz Mac OS X (10.4.3) NVIDIA GeForce 7800GT

TSchneider: Thanks again for your valuable reply. I have a few follow-up questions.
My first set of questions is about rendering audio to 48kHz in the timeline.
Almost immediately you'll notice that FCE has tagged the
entire audio track with a red bar meaning it will
need to be rendered (if you try to play the clip from
the Canvas controls you'll just get beeping or very
low quality sound). Go up to the Sequence menu and
select the Render All (or Mixdown) command and FCE
will transcode the 32kHz audio of your clip to the
48kHz audio of the sequence it's sitting in.
I followed your instructions and everything seemed to work until I got to the passage above. I dragged the subclips into the timeline. The clips appeared in the timeline but there was no red bar. If I chose Render All from the Sequence Menu, nothing happened. If I chose Export to Quicktime Movie, however, it takes several minutes, apparently rendering the audio and video. If I chose instead, Print to Video, the red bars do appear and the rendering process again gets going. There is a small progress bar for both operations in the center of the screen with a percent done and estimated time remaining.
Question: Why doesn't the red bar appear as soon as the clips are in the Timeline?
Question: Why doesn't Render All (or Render Audio) work? It would be much easier to walk away while all the audio rendered into 48kHz and then come back later to save the individual clips to disk.
My second set of questions pertains to the possibility of using Export>Using Quicktime Conversion as a substitute for Export>Quicktime Movie, mainly for academic instead of practical reasons.
If you export a clip directly from the bin "Using
Quicktime Conversion" there aren't any suitable
conversion video/audio formats that would give you
both video in the right format (for iMovie) and
transcode the audio to the sampling rate you want.
I understand your description of rendering the audio files in the timeline. If only academic, I was trying to see if I could duplicate the results using using Export>Using Quicktime Conversion. I chose Quicktime Movie as the format. The video setting was DV/DVCPRO-NTSC. The audio was uncompressed with 48kHz rate. This created a Quicktime movie file with these formats. If I opened the quicktime movie file in Quicktime and checked the info on the file, the audio was indeed 48kHz.
Question: Does this mean that the Quicktime Conversion process rendered the 32kHz audio to 48kHz audio prior to writing the file? If so, it would seem to bypass the need to render the clips in a sequence (although if I could render all the clips in the sequence at once, while I was away from the computer, it would be faster than rendering and saving each clip one at a time).
Question: When I exported a clip this way, then imported it into iMovie, the original capture date/time info was missing when I got info on the clip. However, when I save the clip using Export>Quicktime Movie, the date/time of capture was still present. Would there be any way to preserve this date/time of capture info when using Export>Using Quicktime Conversion?
Question: If I decided to Export>Using Quicktime Conversion with the above settings (DV/DVCPRO-NTSC, 48kHz audio) there are other options I'm given pertaining to the video settings. There are settings for Compressor Quality, with a sliding bar where you can choose Least, Low, Medium, High, and Best quality; and there is Scan Mode (interlaced or progressive). How does one choose among these? If you want the best quality exported clip, I suppose you would chose best quality, but what scan mode is "best" for my purposes -- interlaced or progressive?
Thanks a lot for your help. I'm learning a lot!

Best quality dvd-premiere pro or encore

hi all-some advise needed.
I want to make the best quality professional wedding dvd for a client nd I have a few options and i just want to get feedback on which is the best method.
pc=win xp, prem pro 2 and encore 1.5, PAL, 4x3 plenty of hard disk space, 2gb RAM
wedding is 2 hour long but am I splitting in 2 to get the best quality
I think have 3 options-which is the best?
Option 1 build the DVD in premiere pro via DVD layout (nice wedding menus as well)
Option 2 export the encoded wedding via the encoder (media concept i think) and then just import and build the menus and dvd in encore
Option 3 export an uncompressed avi file via file-movie-export into encore and let encore do the encoding and build the dvd.
What do you guys think? Am i missing any other better options?
I would really aprreciate any advise or criticism,
thanks
Paul

labrisher wrote:
IIf in laying out the DVD in Encore you find that you'd like to change something in the Premiere file after you've imported it into Encore, you simply make the change and re-export the movie to the same name/directory etc. i.e. overwriting the previous file.
I cannot stress how strongly I disagree with this method. You should never, ever overwrite an asset that is used in Encore from outside of Encore. That is asking for big trouble, and if you don't get bitten by it right away, you will get bitten by it eventually. Instead, you should add a version number to the modified asset, and then use the Replace Asset command. Another good method if you're using an all-Adobe workflow is to use Edit Original, which will open up the program used to create the asset. When you finish the modifications, saving will update the asset in Encore, and make sure that all links to all supporting files are maintained.
The worst thing that can happen using labrisher's workflow is that your Encore project will crash with the dreaded PGC error, or some other fatal error, and you will never be able to recover and build a finished disc, disc image or set of DVD folders. You will then have to rebuild the project from scratch.
-Jeff

Best quality to burn a dvd for duplication

Looking for the best way to get the best quality burning a dvd for duplication for resale.
I have iLife09. Its about a 33min video shot with a mini HDdv

Hi
My list on DVD Quality.
*DVD quality*
1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality (movies up to 120 min.) - BEST
• Best Performances (movies less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) (movies up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
2. From
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with (Apple) Disk Util tool.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
5. Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
Yours Bengt W

How to best quality DVD?

I have a new movie that runs an hour and a half and is presently 17.7 gigs. I want to put it on DVD. iMovie compress it down to 2.8 gigs before burning a DVD but I want best quality possible which I believe is 4.2 gigs for a 4.7 gig DVD (one side). I've never done this before. Can anyone tell me the basic steps to produce the best quality possible DVD?

Hi
Klaus1 is 100% right
My twist to this is as follows
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
Try to break the process up into two stages
• Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
• Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
To isolate where the problem starts.
Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
• No File Vault on - Important
• NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
• Lot's of icons on DeaskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
• Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
• And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
Yours Bengt W

Settings for best quality DVD

Hi,
I'm hoping someone can help me to get the best quality DVD for home movies.
I have been editing and putting the movies to DVD for a number of years and the quality has been excellent. but over the last year something has changed and the quality of the final DVD is quite poor (pixalated)
I have tested different settings in both imovie HD and idvd but it hasn't made any difference so far.
I am using the following:
Sony HDR-HC9 handycam (Recording in HDV1080i)
imovie HD 6.0.3
iDVD 7.1
Thanks for any insight you can give me!

Hi
As written - dust on lens - first thought
If You made a lot of DVDs in a row (>3 at a time) then there is a risk to burn out/harm the laser.
my list on DVD Quality - read or keep. It's long !
*DVD quality*
1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - BEST
• Best Performances *(movies + menus less than 60 min.)* - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - slightly lower quality than above
2.Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a shortlived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
*Blu-Ray / BD* can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to plyback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera recorde in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
*unclemano wrote*
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
• Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
Yours Bengt W

Export old VHS to DVD. Best Quality?

I am fairly new to FCE4. I copied all my home videos from VHS to my computer via Sony DCR-HC30. They became ".dv" files. Now I am finished editing/fixing the first video and I am ready to export it. All I want to do is to be able to make a dvd out of it and watch it on a hdtv. I know it will be very hard to get the old VHS quality videos to HD, but what would be the best setting under "Export" to get the best quality out of them. I tried to do a HD export watching a youtube video and after I did it it said it would take 11hours, thats way too long for me. Any help would be great.
Also, I have done a few projects on IDVD as far as creating the dvd menu and chapters. Is there a way to do that on FCE or is it better after export to run it through IDVD to get my dvd menus and give it an actual dvd feel when I insert it into a dvd player?

Hi
DVD is limited as standard to SD-video (Standard definition) (old CRT-TV quality).
There are no practical/working HD-DVD versions at all.
Neither iDVD or Roxio Toast™ will help.
DVD-Studio Pro got a HD-DVD function - BUT this only play back on some few Toshiba players.
Only way to get HD - is via Blu-Ray - require Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
and BD-burner + BD-disks - AND BD-Player
I've made a list on this.
*DVD quality*
1. iDVD 08 & 09 has three levels of qualities.
iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - BEST
• Best Performances *(movies + menus less than 60 min.)* - High quality on final DVD
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6) *(movies + menus up to 120 min.)* - slightly lower quality than above
2.Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not selfcontaining, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly eg x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc).
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW)
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
8. Don’t burn more than three DVD at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while befor next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a shortlived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-layer.
*Blu-Ray / BD* can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to plyback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be playbacked IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera recorde in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JESDeinterlacer3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are plabacked by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choise before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
*unclemano wrote*
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround eg EnergySaver
• Don’t let HD spinn down or be turned off (in EnergySave)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screensaver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
Yours Bengt W

Import/Export to retain best quality for a Beginner

Hi,
I'm hoping someone could help me retain the best quality possible for my video while working on projects because whatever I'm doing now is not working.
I shoot with a Sony HDR-FX1000 in HDV 1080i/24p and the picture and quality is amazing when plugged into a TV or played back on the camera LCD screen. I use a new iMac 2.7GHz Intel Core i5, Mac OS X 10.7.4 to edit. However, when I import into my new FCP X it is not as crisp and quality, and then when I export, it is definitely not the quality I imagined. The video loses it's sharpness and it gets very noisy plus fuzzy lines appear in some areas of shots. These lines don't show up when I view my edited footage in the timeline, only after exporting. I'm fairly new to this all and know I'm not using the best settings to retain the most quality because the beginning and end quality look very different.
I don't do heavy duty editing or effects at the moment. Basic color correction, slow-motion, preset effects, transitions, music and titles.
ANY help relating to what my settings should be across the board to retain the best image possible is greatly appreciated. I can't seem to figure it out with trial and error anymore and thought I'd turn to the experts for help.
Thanks!
Smalls

I've set the viewer to both fields. I guess I don't know why I was transcoding. I thought it somehow optimized the video. Could part of the reason the quality drops be because I transcoded the video when I didn't need to?
When I export, these are the settings I use and then export to QuickTime.
Here is an example of the noise and lines that show up after exporting the video.
It's not like this in the viewer while editing EXCEPT when I change playback quality to High Quality. Any idea why?
Also, these are my settings when importing the video. What should be changed other than deselected the Transcoding options?
I really appreciate the input. Thanks!

Best quality animated gif export

Hi
I was doing just fine exporting animated gifs (in terms of quality output) and all of a sudden on an update to my fireworks png my exports (no matter what options I change) are just not as good quality as before.
Essentially, I am trying to get as close to the JPEG 100% quality (best quality) I can get - drop shadows on items just don't like that great at moment.
Could someone please advise what is absolute optimum setting for best quality output for an animated gif - I am not concerned about file size.
many thanks
Jeff

Without seeing the image/animation, I can't make specific comments.
However. Keep in mind that the GIF format has an indexed palette of 256 colors, total, one of which can be transparent. If you have a still image of 256 shades of red, and a still image of 256 shades of blue, they'll look fine as GIFs. If you try to combine them as an animated GIF, then the palette will need to be 128 shades each of red and blue, so neither of the images as frames in the animation will look as good as they do as stills.
Also, Fireworks doesn't always give you the maximum amount of colors. If you have an image with 1000 colors, and you export to GIF, you probably won't get 256 colors in your palette. Go to File>Image Preview and see what your palette is. If necessary, add colors from your image where you notice banding (with dithering off).
Finally, the two image formats are not equally appropriate for all image content. GIF is good for line art of solid colors. It isn't good for photos or gradients. If you can forgo your drop shadows you'll probably get better quality in the essential parts of the images. JPEGs are good for photos and gradients (although I prefer PNGs for gradients, myself), and are not good for line art. Unfortunately, if you want an animation, you need a GIF or Flash.

Changing Default Print Quality for Photosmart Printers in Stand Alone mode

Hello Everyone. I am using a group of Photosmart Printers in Stand Alone mode for events where I shoot and print on site. Although I have quite a few printers with me (6 total at a time), I prefer to have the printers print in "Normal" Print Quality Mode, instead of "Best". Images come out twice as fast, and because I have a disciplined shooting technique, I get "GREAT" results from the "Normal" setting. I and/or my assistant have to go to my "Preferences" to change my Print Quality everytime we prepare to print another batch of photos. Sometimes we have groups that will want 5 copies, and it simply takes FOREVER in Best mode, and really, although with a 5x Loupe I can tell the difference, My customers can't with their naked eye. Sometimes we forget to change the setting due to the pressure of the pace sometimes. OOPS!
I am using the following Photosmart Printers: A516, A512v and the 335.
As I stated, I don't use these with a computer, I drive them straight from CF Cards. I do have all the original software, if I need to use the computer to make some changes. Just tell me how. Manual says nothing about getting the setting to default to normal.
Thank you so very much in advance.
BLAYZE!

Hello:
One way of assuring high quality would be to export the photo to the desktop (at highest quality) and then print from there.
In my own case, I find that when I occasionally print a photo from iPhoto, the quality is quite good.
Barry

WHAT IS A BEST QUALITY QT FILE?

At the expense of causing some aggravation(!) I'm here going to try to simplify a request that has obviously got a bit tangled in another thread 'Quicktime Pixellation...etc" below, and not getting any positive answer.
*Please can one of the Top Users tell me the difference between a DV .mov file and a .dv file? I need to master in top quality QT.*
I've had the advice from Kirk that .mov is double the size of .dv because +'it separates the audio and video tracks'+ but, is that all?
I've found checking High Quality in the Visual Settings of Movie Properties substantially improves the apparent resolution on playback of a .dv file, ie no pixellation (which especially shows on titles). However if you want to Save Changes (ie High Quality) after viewing, QT makes a double file size .mov copy. Is this therefore better master quality? Or is it identical info with a 'visual trick' on playback?

In 'simple layman's' terms - how is a saved High Quality file likely to affect my computer or when exporting it into another format?
It won't have any effect whatsoever. As QTKirk previously pointed out, this is a a "playback" setting only. Since the data is not "rendered for display" as part of the actual conversion, the saved data goes directly from the file to the encoder unless you are making modifications which are applied prior to the transcoding of data.
can't decide what to do on this one (a DVD burnt from a 'standard' QT.dv comes out visually as clean as a whistle, but QTplayer of that file is v. poor)
To some extent you are comparing apples and oranges here. Both are based on the same data. However, in one case that data has been transcoded to MPEG2 before burning and is played back by an MPEG-2 player while in the other, the original data is being played back at its original data rate. Remember the answer you previously got regarding the demands on CPU and graphics card and the dropping of frames? Well, remember that the playback demands for an 8.5 mbps MPEG-2 FILE is about 30% that of your DV-25's 28.5 mbps (i.e., disregarding all other factors such as DIFFERING codec efficiency, complexity, etc). You may also note that Apple usually limits its QT full HD trailers to a range of 8 to 12 mbps at 24 fps for H.264/AAC content which is targeted for "newer" platforms as the best combination in terms of quality, bandwidth/storage space, and codec efficiency. Still these are matters that each individual must decide for his or her own self when creating their target output. It is a highly subjective decision making process with no right or wrong answers -- only what is "best" in terms of your current project. Virtually no two individuals see the same content in exactly the same light but rather in relation to their needs/desires of the moment.

Need serious help about understanding settings on photoshop for the best quality- please reply is you know a lot about this.

Ideally I'd like to speak to someone from the UK as I feel I can't write out everything I want to say because it's too confusing and it isn't just one question.
I need help with setting photoshop so the images are the best quality on screen and for websites and printing and how I can change that etc I've heard different things and I just need some clarification and advice.
Obviously I'm sure some of you wont want to give personal details out that's fine but I'm generally just in need of some advice, let me know if you can help:)

I don't change any settings. For 1X web images I always use Save for Web. PS remembers which web settings you used the last time. This doesn't effect other files or formats.
Image optimization — Web Fundamentals
Improving Images for Hi-Res Retina Displays
A guide for creating a better retina web - Ivo Mynttinen / User Interface Designer
Serving Hi-Res images only to High Density Displays with PHP
Retina Images
Seriously, you can drive yourself crazy with all this Retina display stuff. I don't see much upside to it except for very special situations.
Nancy O.

Change to Best Quality error

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