Compressor 3 + 8Core Mac Pro + Frame controls = Do your encoding overnight?

So as many others have mentioned here mysteriously a g5 can often times outperform an 8 core intel mac on certain compression jobs. I have figured out something which some of you may want to confirm but it appears very interesting to me the culprit appears to be frame controls.
Heres how came to this conclusion:
Took a DP G5 Power Mac and a 8core Mac Pro, put the same source movie on both machines and ran a standard apple setting on them (h.264 800K for download), results Mac Pro is about 5x faster then the Power Mac. Next step turn frame controls on (no adjustments just turn them on). Thats it, now the Power Mac is about 2x faster then the Mac Pro so what i make of this?
Sounds like apple needs to come out with a software update.

so have some more information for any of you who are interested. the real culprit seems to be the adaptive details enabling this option makes my encodings on the macpro go approximately 20x slower. For comparison the power mac only slows down by a factor of 3 (for reference the macpro is a 2x4x3 Ghz w/ 9G Ram, the G5 is a 2x2.7 Ghz w/ 2.5 G Ram).
Some strange facts:
Negating the effects of the adaptive details option, even though the mac pro should theoretically be at least 4.4 times as fast for encoding processes, the fastest i have been able to achieve in compressor without the use of virtual clustering is 3.5 times as fast, the slowest was a mere 20 percent faster. with virtual clustering and segmenting on the range i have for compressor performance is 94 percent G5 speed on the slow end and 6x on the fast end.

Similar Messages

Upgrading original 8core Mac Pro 667 FSB to 1033 & beyond..is it possible?

hey all,
I have an first edition (2007) 2 quad x 3hz (8 core) with 667 and am looking to upgrade its overall performance - is upgrading its FSB possible to accomodate ddr3?
Any other tips to increase performance?
m

You can install 32GB but can your apps use it? is it effective? sounds more like a waste unless you work with huge 3GB CS4 files. Do just enough to get you through another year until Gulftown etc has ironed out and matured. SSDs can be used in any system.
Apple doesn't really list or update customer installable parts from what there was when it first listed - disk size, RAM etc.
A 2009 Apple Special goes for $2199 and slightly better but not by a huge margin - all depends on what apps, what type of return in performance, where an 8-core today though costs more than ever.
A single socket Gulftown processor will go for $1000-1500 and that isn't even Xeon versions. But more efficient.
If you really want or like to upgrade... I'd switch to Windows and invest in one of the X58 based systems. I even find Finder and OS X to feel like it is sluggish and held back and not as well optimized in desktop and applications at this point - just install both on Mac Pro 2009 and see.

New 8core mac pro, photoshop CS5 running slow

Hi all
I recently decided to switch from PC to MAC. I used to work on a quad core Dell XPS 710 which was very good but decided that an 8core mac would improve the performance of my work flow.
My new mac is a 2x2.26 quad core xeon with 8 gigs of ram and running the latest Mac OS. The computer itself runs fine but photoshop seems very laggy doing simple tasks such as moving images on layers etc. I've tried allocating up to 85% of the memory to photoshop in the preferences but nothing seems to make any difference.
At the moment I would say it runs at 3-4times slower than my old PC which seems madness to me
Any help, tips or advice would be much appreciated
Thanks
Trevor

Yes, something is wrong if it is running slower.
Did you install the 12.0.1 update?
Have you tried disabling third party plugins?
Have you tried updating your wacom tablet drivers?
Have you tried font cleanup as suggested in the other topics on slowdowns?

Installing windows 7 with bootcamp on mac pro yosemite 10.10: 'your disk could not be partitioned'

I have been trying to no avail to install windows 7 on my new macbook pro
with bootcamp in yosemite 10.10
i continually get the message 'your disk could not be partitioned', does anyone know how to tackle this? *I am including the screenshot
and when i try to partition my 250GB drive giving 80GB to the windows partition it just errors,
i have tried rebooting and verifying my disk and repairing and there's no progress or change.. any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Hi nicoczyz,
Welcome to the Support Communities! The steps you have taken to troubleshoot the issue of not being able to create a Windows partition are good ones. The resource below provides another possible scenario that may be the issue here. It's not the exact error message as your screen shot and the article references Windows 8, but the troubleshooting steps are still relevant:
Boot Camp: Partition alert message when using Boot Camp Assistant - Apple Support
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203913
This symptom may occur if you have partitions on your startup drive in addition to the following:
one OS X partition
one Boot Camp partition
one OS X Recovery partition (normally not visible in Disk Utility)
If Boot Camp Assistant detects a Microsoft Reserved (MSR) or Windows Recovery partition on your hard drive, you may see this message. The Boot Camp Assistant cannot continue until the extra partition is removed.
Microsoft Reserved and Windows Recovery partitions can be identified as unmounted partitions with the name "disk0s3" or "disk0s5" in Disk Utility. To remove these partitions, use OS X Disk Utility.
Important: Deleting the wrong partition can cause data loss. Be sure to back up both your OS X files and Windows files before attempting this procedure.
Open Disk Utility from the Utilities folder.
Click the Partition tab.
Look for an extra partition named “disk0s3" or “disk0s5”. Select this partition so it is highlighted.
Click the Remove Partition button ( - ).
Make sure the partition you selected is noted in the sheet that appears.
Click Remove.
When Disk Utility finishes, close the Disk Utility window to quit the app. The Boot Camp Assistant can now be used to reinstall or update your existing Windows partition.
Set up a Windows partition on your Mac - Apple Support
http://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204009
Before you can install Windows your Mac, you need to create and then format a Windows partition.
Setting up a Windows partition is one of the steps for installing Windows on your Mac. Use Boot Camp Assistant to create the partition, then use the Windows installer to format it.Create the Windows partition
To create the Windows partition, open Boot Camp Assistant and follow the onscreen instructions. Boot Camp Assistant is in the Utilities folder of your Applications folder.
Use only Boot Camp Assistant to create the partition. If you partition with another app and then use Boot Camp Assistant, the drive with the partition could be erased.
Boot Camp Assistant creates the partition only if the drive is formatted as Mac OS Extended (Journaled) and doesn't already have a partition created by Boot Camp Assistant. If Boot Camp Assistant sees other partitions, it may warn you that the startup disk cannot be partitioned.
If you need help determining the best size of the partition, refer to your Windows documentation. For Windows 8, the partition should be at least 30 GB.
If Boot Camp Assistant says that verification failed, repair the drive using Disk Utility. If that doesn't help, back up your drive and reinstall OS X.
The drive you're partitioning must be an internal drive. If you have more than one internal drive and the drive you're partitioning is not in the first drive bay, remove the drives in the lower-numbered bays, then reinstall them after installing Windows. A Fusion Drive is treated as one drive, and the Windows partition is created on the disk drive instead of the flash drive (SSD).
Format the Windows partition
Use the Windows installer to format the Windows partition that Boot Camp Assistant created. When you're asked where to install Windows, select the partition named "BOOTCAMP":
Then click Format to begin formatting the partition using the NTFS file system. If you're installing Windows 7 or Windows 8.0, you won't see the Format option until you click "Drive options (advanced)":
If the installer says that it couldn't create a new partition or locate an existing one, disconnect any Thunderbolt storage devices connected to your Mac. Reconnect them after installing Windows.
If you see “No Boot Disk Attached” when starting up your Mac, the Windows partition probably isn't formatted correctly. Remove the partition, then repeat the previous steps for creating and formatting the partition.
Modify the Windows partition
Remove the partition, change its size, or change its name.
Remove the partition
Use Boot Camp Assistant to safely remove Windows and the Windows partition from your Mac, restoring your startup drive to a single Mac partition. You may want to back up your information first, because removing the partition erases all of the data it contains.
Open Boot Camp Assistant.
Select “Remove Windows 7 or later version," then click Continue.
Do one of the following:
If your Mac has a single internal disk, click Restore.
If your Mac has multiple internal disks, select the Windows disk, select “Restore disk to a single OS X partition,” then click Continue.
Change the size of the partition
It's not possible to change the size of the partition after installing Windows, but you can remove the partition and create a new partition of the correct size. Don't try to resize your partition with Windows or a third-party app.Change the name of the partition
You can rename the Windows partition from within Windows. For instructions, refer to your Windows documentation.
Information about products not manufactured by Apple, or independent websites not controlled or tested by Apple, is provided without recommendation or endorsement. Apple assumes no responsibility with regard to the selection, performance, or use of third-party websites or products. Apple makes no representations regarding third-party website accuracy or reliability. Risks are inherent in the use of the Internet. Contact the vendor for additional information.
Last Modified: Dec 22, 2014
I hope this information helps ....
- Judy

6core or 8core Mac Pro

Hello,
I know this one has been asked lots of time before, but i really haven't got a clue which one i should get.
3,33ghz 6 core
2,4ghz 8 core
I will be doing lots of After effects, Premiere, Cinema4D, and photoshop. Beside that i also use a bit illustrator, in-design.
What is the fasted MP doing this? Will this be with a 6 or 8 core?
Some expert help would be great! It's a big investment for me, and i don't like ending up buying the wrong MP.
I'm planning to upgrade to the ATI Radeon HD 5870 Card, or maybe 2x HD 5770? What is better?
Atm I'm using a iMac 27'' i7 2,8Ghz
with 16GB RAM.
Thanks!
Kind regards,

X423424X wrote:
The 6 core...can handle up to 48GB using OWC's 16GB modules...
Update:
Just checked OWC --- WHEN DID THAT HAPPEN?
I don't know. I was also used to seeing mention of the limitation that the 16GB 1333MHz modules would only run at 1066MHz in that application but that's gone now too.

Frame controls in Compressor 3

Well, I recently tried a test video (interlaced 4:3 DV) that I've used extensively to check Compressor 2. I used Compressor 3 on it to see if the Frame Controls could actually encode within a decent amount of time. I used the medium deinterlacing setting. It went faster than Compressor 2...but the output was far worse! In Compressor 2, it took longer, but it was excellent quality deinterlacing. Compressor 3 was terrible. Some motion was blurry/doubled, and there were chunks where no deinterlacing had been performed at all, as in I could still see the combing! What's going on here, Apple? Using the best setting in frame controls is useless unless you have a friggin' cluster or you have time to wait to collect social security, but at least medium still looked good, even if it took a long time. Now best still takes forever, but medium looks awful. I'm tempted to downgrade back to Compressor 2 after this.

Running Compressor 3.0.3 - In the Inspector window, click the third tab to get to "frame controls." Click the gear and use the drop down menu to turn the frame controls "on." It sounds like you did this, but I'm just making sure we're on the same page.
There is no "custom," I promise. Just turning frame controls on allows you to customize the settings and set the options you mentioned. To be literal, the settings mentioned are
Output Fields: Bottom First
Deinterlace: Better (motion adaptive)

Can you add GHz to your MAC PRO??????

I want to buy an 8Core MAC PRO which consists of Two 3.2GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon processors
Can you add a third Processor?? because with video editing Two 3.2 Ghz is not as much as one might think.. You can buy PCs with Four 3.0 Ghz for 1,000.00 less

So is two 3.2 Ghz going to be fast enough for editing?? I am doing a lot of chroma keying right now I have an imac 2.66 ghz and I am having to downsize all of my footage from my XH-A1 because it takes so long to render when it is in 108060i. So.. yeah just wondering if maybe someone could give me some pointers as far as what to buy right now like i said i am doing a lot of green screening and I want to be outputing with the full resolution of my xh-a1 without having to convert to 720
Sorry if none of this makes sense. -Nick

Compressor 3.5 - Frame Controls Different!

Anyone else that has used frame controls on their presets notice that the new version is much different?
I am compressing HD source to MPEG2 for SD-DVD. I have always used FRAME CONTROLS in my presets because of the beautiful quality that I was able to get.
Now, all that quality is gone and I can seem to get the same look as before.
Anyone have any ideas?

Brian Gary wrote:
Were you encoding into DV NTSC and/or did you try ProRes and the output media. Just wondering if there's a difference in a less compressed codec.
In the screenshots above, yes, I was only encoding to/from DV NTSC.
But I did get a chance to experiment with some ProRes stuff just now.
Original file (640x360, 30 fps with Lower Field First; Field Rendering enabled) exported out of Motion 4 as ProRes4444.
The file was dropped into Compressor and flagged as Bottom-Field First.
Converted to ProRes 422 HQ (Interlaced) using the Compressor 3.5 preset (No Frame Controls engaged)
Converted to ProRes 422 HQ (Progressive) using the Compressor 3.5 preset (Frame Controls engaged - adjusted for Progressive output, Deinterlace to Better)
Converted to ProRes 422 HQ Interlaced using the Compressor 3.5 preset but resized to 480x270 without Frame Controls
Converted to ProRes 422 HQ Interlaced using the Compressor 3.5 preset but resized to 480x270 with Frame Controls (Only switched them On - adjusted no other settings)
Converted to ProRes 422 HQ Interlaced using the Compressor 3.5 preset but resized to 480x270 with Frame Controls (Set Deinterlace to Better instead of the default Fast)
Edited to add: I suspect the issue is tied to progressive material as anytime I go interlaced-to-interlaced (but resizing with Frame Controls) Compressor 3.5 doesn't do a bad job. But progressive-to-progressive (or interlaced-to-progressive) spells disaster with Frame Controls. <sigh>

How do I use the App store with macbook pro and mac pro

I currently use the app store with the mac book, but want to buy (share?) apps and music with the mac pro.
I can't find anything that specifically outlines how this works.
I use SplashID with the macbook and an iPhone, and want to use it (and sync it) on the mac pro as well.
If you buy apps for a macbook, can you use them on a second machine, or do you need to buy it a second time?

Your license from the MAS allows you to download and install the apps on as many Macs as you own or have under your control (institutional or employer supplied Macs.) The Mac should to be running Mac OS X 10.6.8 Snow Leopard or Mac OS X 10.7.2 Lion. Open the MAS app on the Mac Pro and sign into your account to have access to download all of your previous purchases in the Purchased pane.
Simple apps can also be dragged & dropped over a network connection from the MacBook to the Mac Pro.

Mac Pro Tower - Which Fans Cool All of What?

So I have a 2008, 2.8 GHz 8-core Mac Pro tower. I'm one of the many people who have problems with the fans. In my case, I can get really high fan speeds, and the problem seems to be due to a faulty temperature sensor. (Using iStat, it will sometimes show unreasonably high temps on a couple cores [or the heat sinks, apparently] immediately after turning it on, whether or not it's been off for awhile. Sometimes, it will even show negative temperatures, in which case the fans will really go into overdrive. Yes, I've already tried resetting the SMC and cleaning it out - nothing.)
What I've ended up doing so far is download Macs Fan Control and setting it to base the fan speeds off CPU temps that don't give faulty readings. This works really well for lowering the fan speed (and thus noise), but I understand that different fans cool parts of the system besides just the CPU. The fan names give basic descriptions, but not a lot of detail beyond that. I've been trying to find a diagram showing which fans cool which parts of the system, but I mostly get results about fan noise, or minimalist diagrams that don't tell me all I want to know. I'd like to make sure my settings are fairly optimal before I do anything intensive.
Can anyone help me with this?

I think you are "barking up the wrong tree".
The fans in the Mac Pro are controlled by Software in the System Management Controller. They make a feedback loop based on measured temperatures. If you are getting racing fans, that is probably based on Bad Temperature inputs. Fixing the temperature inputs is where you should place your energy. The fans are slaves in this process.
One possible exception: Most of the fans do have an RPM output indicator, which tells whether they are spinning properly. If the diagnostic indicates a MOT error, that is likely to be a Fan Motor that is not showing high RPMs at High speed settings, and may be defective. The power supply fans were designed by a different team, and may not have the same controls.
What SMC Fan Control and similar software allows you to do is put a new Floor under the fan speeds. They will spin faster at idle, and it is possible they may move up to even higher speeds more slowly. What is does NOT allow you to do is any actual reduction in minimum fan speeds, regardless of whether it allows you to set lower numbers.
When the numbers get extremely large, the magnitude bits overflow into what is sometimes considered the sign bit. That has no meaning in this context -- all numbers should be treated as positive numbers. That probably indicates they took a shortcut and used general-purpose routines for signed numbers that were lying around instead of writing more correct versions for positive numbers from scratch.

10.9.2 is so slow on a MAC PRO 2011

OMG
i took a chance and upgraded from 10.6.8 on my fully optimized MAC PRO
on the IMAC 2012 things go faster
what a fool i am
why are things slower on the MAC pro
and faster with the older system??
i repeat OMG

How much RAM installed in your Mac Pro,
How full is your Mac's hard drive?
Do you run any antivirus software on your Mac? Antivirus software can slow down the normal operation of OS X as well having negative performance effects on OS X and other adverse system issues.
Do you have apps like MacKeeper or any other maintenance apps like CleanMyMac 1 or 2, TuneUpMyMac or anything like these apps, installed on your Mac?
These types of apps, while they appear to be helpful, can do too good a job of data "cleanup" causing the potential to do serious data corruption or data deletion and render a perfectly running OS completely dead and useless leaving you with a frozen, non-functional Mac.
Plus, these type of apps aren't really necessary.
They really aren't.
There are manual methods to clear off unnecessary data off of your Mac that are safer and you have complete control over your Mac and not just leave a piece of auto cleaning software in charge of clearing off data off of your Mac.
Their potential of causing OS X issues outweighs the implied good and benefits these types of hard drive or memory "cleaning" apps are written to do.
Plus, the software company's that write these apps make it hard to easily uninstall these apps if something DOES go wrong and these apps work in a way where you have no recovery or revert function to return your Mac back to its former, working state in the event something does go wrong.
It is best to never download and install these types of apps.
The risk to your system and data is too great a risk!
Your Mac Pro could have Mavericks incompatible hardware and/or software.
You may need to update all of your third party software if there are OS X Mavericks updates that can be applied. You may need to, ACTUALLY, go to the third party developers' websites if there are no updates through the Mac App Store.
Update all of your Web browser Internet plugins, also.
Also, if you have any connected third party devices, like non-Apple, third party keyboards, mice, drawing tablets, hubs, card readers, etc, you need to go to the device maker's website and update the drivers for these devices to OS X Mavericks compatible versions, if available or needed.

Mac Pro extremely slow in Logic score

For many years Logic score has been neglected. The score function is slow, crashes easily etc.
SO I decided to buy the fastest Mac Pro, installed everything clean from the beginning, even made new template songs, and guess what: as slow as an Atari in 1992!
Try it yourself: move a note or sign in a score from one spot to another with the mouse, and it takes Logic nearly 3 seconds to calculate its new position.
Does anyone have suggestions how to live with this?
I go back to my G5 dual 2.5, which has the same problem, but less slow than the Mac Pro.

Not sure of your experience, of score in L.P.
But i know, the wait will be over, in a matter of days weeks are a few months, then we be flying, just remember apple got the best on board.
As to logic/pro almost 5years no major up-lift, and just guessing why logic/pro is limited to two 2ghz of samples, 5years ago apple computer did,nt use more than 2ghz of memory so there was no need to step the limit up on logic/pro, where as, at that time, it was the dual 1.2 g4 was the fastest mac and so with the fastest mac today takes 16 ghz so i cant see it not being at least 8ghz of samples, for logic, even if we dont use 8ghz, it only means it will work more smooth, just a bit of my two cent, this have nothing to do with lepoard, being 64, and will run twice as, we are talking Major-D.A.W. upgrade, bug fix, new feature, auto-rewire, editing in audio nice and easy like the pro's with pitch & time, better compressor, syn, piano, last but not least give m-audio a bring in with delta 1010 being pci-e .
powerM\G4-1.25DUAL Mac OS X (10.4.4) I used dellta 1010 soundcard.prologic 7,1.5 gigs MEMORY.EXTENAL SYNS. MACKIE32-08 Mixing Desk.

10.5.7 Fundamental Incompatibility with Mac Pro - Screen/System Lock ups

Hi all.
It looks like 10.5.7 is causing a lot of problems, but I think I found a problem that is very fundamental.
First, my system. It's one of the original Mac Pros with Quad Xeons at 2.66GHz. It has 24GB of RAM and several drives in there. I have 3 30" displays plugged into 3 NVIDIA GeForce 7300GT cards. I originally ran a 10.5.7 combo update on my 10.5.6 system, and experienced these problems (detailed below). As I was also running a beta of iTunes and the iPhone SDK (the 3rd release), and beta 2 of Safari 4, I thought this may have caused some trouble. So, I tried an experiment.
I bought a new Corsair 256GB SSD for my startup drive. Loaded my family pack of 10.5.6 onto it as a fresh install, and just applied the 10.5.7 combo update. I get the exact same behavior with no further software. So, this is a fundamental incompatibility of 10.5.7 with a machine having these specs.
Now the problems. They start with the primary (in my case center) screen locking while the other two screens keep working. Meaning, the primary display "works" but none of the windows move, the clock freezes...yet, if you move the mouse there and luckily grab a window, you could move it out onto the other 2 displays and it would allow you to continue to use the application. If you hit the CONTROLkey and scroll up and down (zooming the display in and out) it can sometimes "unlock" the primary display, but then there are many artifacts. For example, the shadows cast by windows appear as plain grey "dashboard esque" blocks and have black stripes at the edges. Also, at random times, the machine just seems to hang completely, and unlock a minute or 2 later. Eventually it locks for good.
Unfortunately this has lead me into a deadlock situation. My iTunes has been updated to the 3rd beta in the iPhone 3.0 SDK release. The library has been modified and only works with that version now. That version requires 10.5.7. So if I revert back to 10.5.6, I lose my iTunes Library or have to wait till the offical version of iTunes is realeased (although that may still require 10.5.7).
I see lots of people are having Firewire (800 in particular) problems, and I have several drives I need on Firewire. It's not a solution to yank them. It all works fine under 10.5.6, of course.
So the question is...is help on it's way? What to do!?
Thanks for any insights.
More info on the system below:
Hardware Overview:
Model Name: Mac Pro
Model Identifier: MacPro1,1
Processor Name: Dual-Core Intel Xeon
Processor Speed: 2.66 GHz
Number Of Processors: 2
Total Number Of Cores: 4
L2 Cache (per processor): 4 MB
Memory: 24 GB
Bus Speed: 1.33 GHz
Boot ROM Version: MP11.005C.B08
SMC Version (system): 1.7f10
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT:
Chipset Model: NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-1
PCIe Lane Width: x8
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: NVIDIA (0x10de)
Device ID: 0x0393
Revision ID: 0x00a1
ROM Revision: 3008
Displays:
Cinema HD:
Resolution: 2560 x 1600
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
Display Connector:
Status: No Display Connected
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT:
Chipset Model: NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-2
PCIe Lane Width: x8
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: NVIDIA (0x10de)
Device ID: 0x0393
Revision ID: 0x00a1
ROM Revision: 3008
Displays:
Cinema HD:
Resolution: 2560 x 1600
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Main Display: Yes
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
Display Connector:
Status: No Display Connected
NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT:
Chipset Model: NVIDIA GeForce 7300 GT
Type: Display
Bus: PCIe
Slot: Slot-3
PCIe Lane Width: x4
VRAM (Total): 256 MB
Vendor: NVIDIA (0x10de)
Device ID: 0x0393
Revision ID: 0x00a1
ROM Revision: 3008
Displays:
Cinema HD:
Resolution: 2560 x 1600
Depth: 32-Bit Color
Core Image: Hardware Accelerated
Mirror: Off
Online: Yes
Quartz Extreme: Supported
Rotation: Supported
Display Connector:
Status: No Display Connected
ATA Bus:
SONY DVD RW DW-D150A:
Model: SONY DVD RW DW-D150A
Revision: 1.MD
Serial Number:
Detachable Drive: No
Protocol: ATAPI
Unit Number: 0
Socket Type: Internal
Low Power Polling: No
Power Off: No
TSSTcorpCD/DVDW SH-S162L:
Model: TSSTcorpCD/DVDW SH-S162L
Revision: LC02
Serial Number:
Detachable Drive: No
Protocol: ATAPI
Unit Number: 1
Socket Type: Internal
Low Power Polling: No
Power Off: No
FireWire Bus:
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Built-in Hub:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
FreeAgent Go FW:
Manufacturer: Seagate
Model: 0x2200
GUID: 0x20370200105F82
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Up to 200 Mb/sec
Sub-units:
FreeAgent Go FW Unit:
Unit Software Version: 0x10483
Unit Spec ID: 0x609E
Firmware Revision: 0x110
Product Revision Level: 410G
Sub-units:
FreeAgent Go FW SBP-LUN:
Capacity: 149.05 GB
Removable Media: Yes
BSD Name: disk5
Mac OS 9 Drivers: No
Partition Map Type: GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported
Volumes:
Seagate149GBTote:
Capacity: 148.73 GB
Available: 132.95 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Case-sensitive Journaled HFS+
BSD Name: disk5s2
Mount Point: /Volumes/Seagate149GBTote
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
GUID: 0x0
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
OEM ATA Device 00:
Manufacturer: OEM
Model: 0x0
GUID: 0x30E102E0454B7D
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Up to 200 Mb/sec
Sub-units:
OEM ATA Device 00 Unit:
Unit Software Version: 0x10483
Unit Spec ID: 0x609E
Firmware Revision: 0x110
Product Revision Level:
Sub-units:
OEM ATA Device 00 SBP-LUN:
Capacity: 931.51 GB
Removable Media: Yes
BSD Name: disk4
Mac OS 9 Drivers: No
Partition Map Type: GPT (GUID Partition Table)
S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported
Volumes:
TimeMachine:
Capacity: 931.19 GB
Available: 606.63 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Case-sensitive Journaled HFS+
BSD Name: disk4s2
Mount Point: /Volumes/TimeMachine
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 800 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Unknown Device:
Manufacturer: Unknown
Model: Unknown
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Unknown
Memory Slots:
ECC: Enabled
DIMM Riser A/DIMM 1:
Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x8551
Part Number: 0x373254353132393230454641335343322020
Serial Number: 0x02007D11
DIMM Riser A/DIMM 2:
Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x8551
Part Number: 0x373254353132393230454641335343322020
Serial Number: 0x02006013
DIMM Riser B/DIMM 1:
Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x8551
Part Number: 0x373254353132393230454641335343322020
Serial Number: 0x0200711F
DIMM Riser B/DIMM 2:
Size: 4 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x8551
Part Number: 0x373254353132393230454641335343322020
Serial Number: 0x02007012
DIMM Riser A/DIMM 3:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x830B
Part Number: 0x4E54324754373255344E4231424E2D334320
Serial Number: 0xA4730244
DIMM Riser A/DIMM 4:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x830B
Part Number: 0x4E54324754373255344E4231424E2D334320
Serial Number: 0x70780241
DIMM Riser B/DIMM 3:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x830B
Part Number: 0x4E54324754373255344E4231424E2D334320
Serial Number: 0xE4760245
DIMM Riser B/DIMM 4:
Size: 2 GB
Type: DDR2 FB-DIMM
Speed: 667 MHz
Status: OK
Manufacturer: 0x830B
Part Number: 0x4E54324754373255344E4231424E2D334320
Serial Number: 0xF0770241

I can only tell you that I've run 10.5.7 on my Mac Pro, same model as yours, without any problems. As a beta tester my Mac Pro was the main hardware on which 10.5.7 was tested. I currently have it installed on a first generation iMac, MacBook, and MacBook Pro as well as a second generation MacBook Pro. So far not a single problem.
But, I don't have multiple video cards nor do I use any beta version of iTunes (didn't know there was one since each system upgrade includes the current release) but I do use the Safari 4 Beta - the most recent version just released when 10.5.7 was released.)
I can suggest you read the following about updates of system software:
Essential Steps Before Updating OS X!
Please do things right before updating OS X in order to avoid problems.
A. Repair Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger and Leopard.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer. Now restart normally.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior (4.0 for Tiger, and 4.1 for Leopard) and/or TechTool Pro (4.6.1 for Leopard) to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
B. Clone Using Restore Option of Disk Utility
1. Open Disk Utility from the Utilities folder.
2. Select the destination volume from the left side list.
3. Click on the Erase tab in the DU main window. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (journaled, if available) and click on the Erase button. This step can be skipped if the destination has already been freshly erased.
4. Click on the Restore tab in the DU main window.
5. Select the destination volume from the left side list and drag it to the Destination entry field.
6. Select the source volume from the left side list and drag it to the Source entry field.
7. Double-check you got it right, then click on the Restore button.
Destination means your backup drive (should be erased first.)
Source means your startup drive or volume.
C. Download the Standalone Combo Updater from Apple.
Be sure you quit all running applications and disconnect all peripherals (except original keyboard and mouse) before running the installer. When the installer is running do not use the computer in any way other than to respond to an installer dialog.
Install the update by double-clicking on the installer package icon. When the installation is completed Restart the computer. Your computer will boot twice - this is normal. Upon completion of the update use Disk Utility to repair permissions. Not all permissions will seem repaired. You will get spurious reports regarding permissions related to iTunes, Front Row. These can be ignored. They will appear every time you repair permissions.
Following these basic steps should prevent most if not all updating problems. Note that if you have unrepairable disk problems reported in Step A then DO NOT update your system until those problems are resolved.
If you find that you did not follow these suggestions, then you might consider reinstalling OS X and going about the process properly in the hope of a successful result:
How to Perform an Archive and Install
An Archive and Install will NOT erase your hard drive, but you must have sufficient free space for a second OS X installation which could be from 3-9 GBs depending upon the version of OS X and selected installation options. The free space requirement is over and above normal free space requirements which should be at least 6-10 GBs. Read all the linked references carefully before proceeding.
1. Be sure to use Disk Utility first to repair the disk before performing the Archive and Install.
Repairing the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Installer menu (Utilities menu for Tiger.) After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported, then quit DU and return to the installer.
2. Do not proceed with an Archive and Install if DU reports errors it cannot fix. In that case use Disk Warrior and/or TechTool Pro to repair the hard drive. If neither can repair the drive, then you will have to erase the drive and reinstall from scratch.
3. Boot from your OS X Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When you reach the screen to select a destination drive click once on the destination drive then click on the Option button. Select the Archive and Install option. You have an option to preserve users and network preferences. Only select this option if you are sure you have no corrupted files in your user accounts. Otherwise leave this option unchecked. Click on the OK button and continue with the OS X Installation.
4. Upon completion of the Archive and Install you will have a Previous System Folder in the root directory. You should retain the PSF until you are sure you do not need to manually transfer any items from the PSF to your newly installed system.
5. After moving any items you want to keep from the PSF you should delete it. You can back it up if you prefer, but you must delete it from the hard drive.
6. You can now download a Combo Updater directly from Apple's download site to update your new system to the desired version as well as install any security or other updates. You can also do this using Software Update.

The Airplay icon does not show, regardless that it is clicked on display. How can I do to see the Airplay Icon in order to connect my apple TV with my Mac Pro?

The Airplay icon does not show on my Mac Pro, regardless that it is clicked on display. How can I do to see the Airplay Icon in order to connect my apple TV with my Mac Pro?

To check your model go to About This Mac (by clicking on the Apple icon, top left) and then select more info. If you wish to use mirroring you will need one from 2011 or later running OSX 10.8 or later. The alternative would be to use 3rd party software like Airparrot.
About AirPlay Mirroring in OS X

Running 2 Nvidia GTX470's in a Mac Pro ?

Hello,
I recently acquired TWO Nvidia GTX470's as a gift. I would like to run in a new Mac Pro 8-core 2.4Ghz Westmere (2010). I would like to do this in order to switch easily between AE, Nuke, etc. and Davinci Resolve, so one would be attached to the monitors and power Adobe's 64bit Mercury engine and the other would just be there to give CUDA support for the Davinci. Obviously there are a few issues.
1) Since the GTX 470's need 2 power cables (6 pin) can I run off of the Molex connectors in the optical bay (not sure how many are there) and evenly distribute the load by using 1 connector from the motherboard and the other from the Molex for each card?
2) I have heard the 2010 Mac Pro's have the capacity for 2 PCIe x16 slots and that unlike previous generations these can be any 2 slots you chose. This would be ideal as I would like to put these doublewidth video cards as far apart as possible in order to keep heat down and let the fans do their thing. Can anyone confirm this?
3) If I am forced to provide an additional power supply (even though the Mac Pro PSU is 1000w and should technically be able to handle this additional video card) what would be recommended? I have heard the visiontek/epower 450w unit (which fits into an optical bay) is quite awful and uses substandard parts as well as kicking a lot of heat back into the machine, so is there another alternative which does not require leaving the side door open or drilling holes in my new Mac Pro?
Thanks for your patience if this topic is redundant. Need to be as thorough as I can here.

1) Since the GTX 470's need 2 power cables (6 pin) can I run off of the Molex connectors in the optical bay (not sure how many are there) and evenly distribute the load by using 1 connector from the motherboard and the other from the Molex for each card?
The Mac Pro comes with two power adapters. So that limits you to one card. The only way you could power the other card is with an additional PSU. I've seen posts where this has been done. Attempting to split the power adapters to drive both cards will exceed the power capacity of the mac pro's power supply.
2) I have heard the 2010 Mac Pro's have the capacity for 2 PCIe x16 slots and that unlike previous generations these can be any 2 slots you chose. This would be ideal as I would like to put these doublewidth video cards as far apart as possible in order to keep heat down and let the fans do their thing. Can anyone confirm this?
I believe slots 1 and 2 are x16 and slots 3 and 4 are x4.
Relating to the issues of both power and slots you might want to read this apple discussions thread.
3) If I am forced to provide an additional power supply (even though the Mac Pro PSU is 1000w and should technically be able to handle this additional video card) what would be recommended? I have heard the visiontek/epower 450w unit (which fits into an optical bay) is quite awful and uses substandard parts as well as kicking a lot of heat back into the machine, so is there another alternative which does not require leaving the side door open or drilling holes in my new Mac Pro?
That apple discussions thread I referenced above has some info on what someone was planing on using.

Compressor 3 + 8Core Mac Pro + Frame controls = Do your encoding overnight?

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