Converting to still image

Please excuse me everyone if this is not the right forum for this
question. But since I always get reliable advice, I thought I'd give you guys a try. I'm trying to convert a frame from one of my films to a still, a jpeg.
Is there a process to make it the best possible quality? I suppose I could use the QT conversion drop-down menu and convert to JPG still image. I just wanted to know if anyone had any thoughts on this. Oh, and the fotage is DV NTSC.
Thanks so much,
D

Hi,
I also found a list with different apps that you can use to capture the video frame rather than just using Quicktime. It doesn't hurt giving a try:
http://www.pure-mac.com/screen.html
Hope this information helps,
Vicente.

Similar Messages

Converting .dv still images to .Jpeg

Hiya guys.
What I need to do is produce a series of images taken from stills of a movie...
I need the images to be in Jpeg format so i can use them in premiere pro to create an animation. When i take a still from a movie, it saves it as a seperate movie labelled still.DV
Is there any way of converting the .DV file to a Jpeg?
Urgent!!!
Thnaks in advance...
Nick
Macbook 13'3" Black Mac OS X (10.4.7)

place playhead to wanted position..
hit Apple-F (=freeze)...
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boom! done ..
fast enough? ;-))

How do I convert an flv file to still images?

This may sound stupid, but I have a downloaded flv file, and I want to use about
8 seconds to make still images so I can trace into Illustrator and then export it into Flash. (both are older versions).
Is this possible?
It is for an animinated logo.
Thanx.

Andrew J wrote:
Everybody's wrong wrong wrong. You don't need garageband. Select the song, go to info. You need to select a start and stop time for the song that can't be any longer than 40 seconds in length. Then in advanced mode you convert the song to acc. once done locate the file on the computer. it should end in .m4a . Change the a to an r so it reads .m4r Drag the file to the desktop, double click and it ends up in ringtones folder.
That's it! Works every time. Or for those who want easier:
http://www.ambrosiasw.com/utilities/iToner/
My drug of choice.

Converting 180 imported images in AE CC to image sequences that reside in same folder as stills.

I have 180 imported stills in a composition. I have corresponding image sequences that I want to convert each still to. The stills are named "x-00001.jpg", and the other parts of the image sequence are in the same directory. How do I get AE CC to make the leap to find the rest of each image sequence aside from manually using "Replace Footage" with each image to check the image sequence box?

Your workflow is flawed when you put your placeholder images and your image sequences in the same folder. Each image sequence should be in a separate folder and should be imported as an image sequence. The frame rate of the imported image sequences is set in Preferences before an image sequence is imported or changed with File>Interpret Footage.
If your placeholder is a still image and you have an image sequence in a different folder you can use the Replace Footage command and it will bring replace a still with an image sequence if you make sure to check the image sequence button before you press Open.
You can also convert your image sequences to Movies using QuickTime and easily wrap them in a .mov container. This eliminates the necessity of checking the image sequence box when replacing footage.
Writing a script to do this would require that you either pause the script to choose the folder with the image sequence or that you script every folder and the placeholder so it would be easier just to go through the composition and replace footage.

Use Automator and QT Pro to convert still images to MOVs

I can't seem to find Automator in the Snow Leopard forum. I have folders of still images that I want to convert to QT MOVs. Right now I use QT Pro File>Open Image Sequence and click on the first image in each folder, then set the frames per second, then wait for it to open, then File>Export and choose settings and destination. I'd like to find a way to use Automator to point it to the parent folder of the subfolders with images in them and have it be able to create individual MOVs from each folder. Any ideas? Or suggestions on where else to post this.
Thanks, Chris

Adobe Camera Raw is the way to go – it will do all you want and more.
You can pick up the basics very quickly but it pays in the long run to discover its incredible versatility by visiting the Camera Raw forum.
And read the book too!

Converting clip to still image, format question

Hello.
I have created a still image from my interlaced video. I now need to export it to fit the following film format to be applied on a promotional postcard. The format needed is:
(.TIF, .PDF, .JPG, .EPS, .AI)-all are okay
300 dpi (dots per inch)
1/8 bleed size
Resolution: 1875px x 1275x
How do I make these sort of specifications in FCP? I am without Adobe or any of the others.
And also, I will be creating a movie poster too within the next few days. I had no problem creating a design in FCP for a postcard but the actual poster is a different matter. It is possible to create a poster in one of the programs part of Studio 2?
Thanks.

You REALLY, REALLY need to use a high resolution still photo for printing purposes ... especially if you plan to blow it up to poster size.
A still image from video will yield the same resolution as your footage; for example, a still from DV footage would produce a 720 x 480 image at 72dpi.
You'll need Photoshop or other photo editing software to manipulate the image beyond that - FCP won't do it.
FWIW, I'd recommend saving the still image from FCP as an uncompressed TIFF file, then send it to a print house to handle the rest.
-DH

Large Still Images into PE - One Workflow

Everyone wants the highest quality that they can obtain when doing their videos. It’s natural to want the best. Well, when dealing with still images, bigger is not necessarily better, for two reasons. First, overly large still images can really tax a system and second, one is limited to the frame size of the video, so these have to be resized somewhere - this resizing can be in the NLE (Non Linear Editor) program, or in an image processing program like PS (Photoshop), which does a better job anyway. Doing this in PS, or PSE, will result in better resized images, and they are easier for the NLE to work with. Quality is as high as your Project’s Preset will allow, and you are more efficient, with fewer crashes, slowdowns and hangs. It is a win-win situation.
Here is my normal workflow when dealing with still images. This workflow is for NTSC 4:3 720x480 with a PAR (Pixel Aspect Ratio) of 0.9. If your Project’s Presets are different, use those specs to resize to.
Since I shoot my still images in RAW, I Copy my files from the CF card to my system and catalog these images by location, subject and date (if necessary). I’ll do a quick conversion and Save_As Adobe DNG for backup. I then process these RAW images in PS with the ARC (Adobe Raw Converter), correcting them and then doing a Save_As PSD into a sub-folder. All of this is in my still photo library.
Normally, I will edit these PSD’s to find the images that I wish to use in a Video Project, and will Copy the selected images to another folder. You’ll see that I work with a lot of Copies, so my original files are always untouched and stored elsewhere. This guards against anything happening to them.
At this point, I’ll decide how I wish to use these selected images in my Video Project. Let’s just say that they are all horizontal images, and are still full-size from my camera. As stated, my Video Projects are DV-NTSC 4:3 720x480 PAR 0.9. [Remember, your Video Project may vary, so you will need to plug in the dimensions for YOUR Video Project in that case.] I also will have done my Cropping on each image individually, to get them to 4:3 Aspect Ratio. I do this my eye and by hand, rather than via an Action, because I want full aesthetic control.
In PS, I have a set of Actions for Video. An Action is like a Script, but less powerful and less involved in the writing. As I have already done all of my image enhancements and additional processing before I did my Copy to the selected folder, I only have to worry about my Action resizing these selected images for use in my Video Project. My Action here is to resize to 720x480 with a PAR of 0.9, and I normally use the Action that does this with a particular resizing algorithm, Bicubic-Smoother (though I also use Bicubic-Sharper on occasion).
For the next step, I go to my folder structure (remember, this folder contains copies of my selected still images in PSD format), and create a new sub-folder "[Project Name]_720x480." Back in PS, I choose File>Automate>Batch. Here I set my Source Folder, my Destination folder and the Action to perform. In my case, it’ll be the Destination Folder, that I just created, [Project Name]_720x480, and my Action will be my NTSC 4:3 720x480 Smooth. I check to have the Open command by-passed, because I do not need to see this take place on my monitor. When I hit OK, PS grabs all files in my Source Folder, runs the commands of my Action and does a Save_As for all files into my Destination Folder. I can process hundreds of large images down to a great 720x480 PAR 0.9 via Bicubic-Smoother interpolation, in moments. Now, I’m ready to go. Last, I Copy my Destination Folder to my Video Project’s folder hierarchy (usually on another HDD), and then Import these processed stills into my NLE.
What if I need to pan on one, or more of these images, while they are zoomed out completely? I don’t have enough pixels in my horizontal dimension to do this. I am just filling the frame with my still. Well, if I find that there are such images, I go back to my folder with the full sized images in my still images library, and select the ones that need to be larger. I run another Action on these, but it’s one that resizes to something larger than 720x480, say 1000x750. Now, I have another Destination Folder with the name [File Name]_1000x750. I’ll Copy this over to my Video Project, and Import these into the NLE. Here, I can go to Project Panel and remove the 720x480 versions if I so choose, but since a Premiere Project file (.PRPROJ or .PREL) is only an XML database, I may just leave them. It does not contain any media files, just links to where they are on the system and to what operations are performed on them.
By doing my resizing in PS, rather than in Premiere, I have accomplished two things:
1.) I have better quality resized images, using the algorithms in PS, plus have a choice of several interpolation methods to work with.
2.) I have lessened the processing load on my NLE and on my system, while doing the editing
I get higher quality and lower resource overhead - hence my reference to "win-win."
Now, back to my aesthetic control. I do not do any automatic zooming or panning. If one allows the NLE to do this, then they will want to probably process all of their images to 1000x750 (remember, this is for an NTSC 4:3 Project, so you will need to calculate what YOUR Project will require).
The two programs that I use are Photoshop and Premiere Pro, but Photoshop Elements can do the same things, though the exact commands might be different. Premiere Elements will handle the resized still images, just like Premiere Pro and the only difference will be the terminology used when one wishes to Import the still images.
I also keep all of my images in .PSD (the native format of PS), and do not convert to JPEG, or other. If one’s camera shoots only JPEG, I suggest writing the Action to do the Save_As to .PSD, as another JPEG compression will cost one quality. Yes, the JPEG’s will be smaller, but remember we are looking for the ultimate quality, so larger file sizes are just part of that equation.
One does not have to deal with all of the Copies, as I do. However, this allows me to go back to the originals, or to the processed full-sized .PSD’s at any step along the way. There is only one thing worse than not being able to go back to an intermediate version with full Layers and Adjustment Layers, plus any Alpha Channels, and that is finding out that you’ve lost your original RAW and DNG backups! That’s why I do a lot of Save_As and also work from Copies all along the way.
Hunt

Your workflow looks good. I do similar, but use PS, in lieu of LightRoom. I also do DNG's for my archives.
Provided that one chooses a JPEG compression algorithm setting that does not do too much compression, I doubt that anyone, but the most very critical, could tell the difference in Video. Most of my tests on PSD vs JPEG have been for print. There, one can more easily detect the differences. Video "hides" some of that.
To date, I have not had a Project where the Asset size differences between equally sized PSD's vs JPEG's caused any slowdown, or problem. There could be a resources savings with the smaller JPEG files, but there is a tiny bit of overhead dealing with the JPEG compression. I have never tested this, so can only guess that the smaller Asset size of the JPEG would trump that overhead - just a guess on my part.
For me, keeping the images in PSD does save a tiny bit of work in my Action (basically one less operation to perform), but I doubt that one could measure that time difference, even over the automation of hundreds of images. Besides, it's only one additional line in the Action. My feelings on JPEG vs PSD is firmly based in my print experience, and I am probably being too critical with images going to video. When I move up to HD and BD authoring, I need to apply a very critical eye, to see if I can tell the differences on an HD TV. So long as one does not apply too much JPEG compression, the differences should be very slight, at the worst, and maybe not even noticed, at best.
I do minimize the impact of many files on my Project by sizing to what I need. If I will not be doing any pans on zoomed-out images, I size to my Project. For pans on zoomed-out images, I calculate just what I will need for those pans, and might end up with several groups of sizes, to accommodate each. Still, the vast majority will be sized to exactly what I need for the Project - very few extra pixels.
In my case, and yours too, I have my RAW, my DNG, my working Layered PSD's, and then my sized output. I always keep all working PSD's, as I might change my mind, or my client might change theirs, and I do not want to have to go back and redo work, if I still have those working files. I also do as little destructive editing, as I can, using Dupe Layers, and Adjustment Layers, whenever possible. If I can, I never Flatten, or Merge Layers, so I can make any/all changes at any time, and only have to do the resizing via the same Actions. That is basically a "one-button" solution, once I have made the changes required.
Good luck,
Hunt

How do i make a still image (photo) fit the length of the music? I record music and want to put the tracks to a video file with a still image of my business logo in the background. Any help?

How do I make a still image (photo) fit the length of the music? I record music and want to convert the tracks to a video file with a still image of my business logo in the background. On windows movie maker you could just select "fit to music" but this program isnt as easy to figure out! Any help?

Double-click on the still image in the project timeline to open the Inspector. In the Inspector, adjust the duration by typing in a new duration to match the length of your music. I think the limit for a still image is 10 minutes. If you need more than this, simply drag the image into the timeline again then adjust its duration. The two images will play seamlessly (no gap will be visible).
See this iMovie Help topic:
http://help.apple.com/imovie/#mov3a883915
You can achieve more precision when entering durations by changing a preference in the menu item iMovie Preferences. Check (tick) the preference for Show Time As HH:MM:SS:frames. This will enable you to enter the duration of stills down to the frame level, rather than full seconds (NTSC is 30 frames per second; PAL is 25 fps). When entering times, type a colon between each time segment, such as 2:50:15, which represents 2 minutes 50 seconds and 15 frames. For 5 seconds 20 frames you would enter 5:20 and so forth.
Note that the music will only run to the length of the video in the timeline (in your case, the still images). So, after increasing the stills duration you will need to drag the end of the music track as far as required. The stills can be dragged inwards to reduce the duration if necessary.
John
Message was edited by: John Cogdell - added Note

Why is it so difficult to convert a Raw image to a jpeg in Photoshop Elements?! I have version 12. Once i realised to change the tickbox in Camera Raw to 8 instead of 16 i did. Having spent time working on my Raw images i save them as a jpeg and rename t

Why is it so difficult to convert a Raw image to a jpeg in Photoshop Elements ?! I have version 12. Once i realized to change the tick box in Camera Raw to 8 bit instead of 16 bit and Flatten image ( sometimes can flatten image if the flatten option isn't greyed out) hey presto i thought i was up and running. However after saving the photograph as a jpeg and renaming it e, after the word edit. I switched off/on my computer only for all the images i had spent time working on to have disappeared. Feeling very upset as there is no Technical Help to telephone at adobe and i don't know what to do.

My daughter has had her Razr for about 9 months now. About two weeks ago she picked up her phone in the morning on her way to school when she noticed two cracks, both starting at the camera lens. One goes completely to the bottom and the other goes sharply to the side. She has never dropped it and me and my husband went over it with a fine tooth comb. We looked under a magnifying glass and could no find any reason for the glass to crack. Not one ding, scratch or bang. Our daughter really takes good care of her stuff, but we still wanted to make sure before we sent it in for repairs. Well we did and we got a reply from Motorola with a picture of the cracks saying this was customer abuse and that it is not covered under warranty. Even though they did not find any physical damage to back it up. Well I e-mailed them back and told them I did a little research and found pages of people having the same problems. Well I did not hear from them until I received a notice from Fed Ex that they were sending the phone back. NOT FIXED!!! I went to look up why and guess what there is no case open any more for the phone. It has been wiped clean. I put in the RMA # it comes back not found, I put in the ID #, the SN# and all comes back not found. Yet a day earlier all the info was there. I know there is a lot more people like me and all of you, but they just don't want to be bothered so they pay to have it fix, just to have it do it again. Unless they have found the problem and only fixing it on a customer pay only set up. I am furious and will not be recommending this phone to anyone. And to think I was considering this phone for my next up grade! NOT!!!!

This is about the still image size changing from what I see on the computer monitor and what the burned DVD shows on the TV

I have Prem.El 12 and have used PE4 for years. I have a new PC that runs Win7Pro. The still images on the computer monitor are within the "safe margins". The still images after the movie has been burned to a disk are MUCH smaller on the TV screen. Is this an issue of 16:9 vs 4:3 ratios? My TV is 4:3. Can I tell PE12 to make the movie a 4:3?

retchemteach
Although I have seen your post of today in my Inbox Email Notifications, that post has not yet appears in this thread. It will probably will sooner or later. But, to keep things moving along....this is a copy of what I am seeing as your message of today in my Indox Email Notifications
Thank you for your patience in the time it is taking me to get back to you.
I am still trying to buy some DVD-RW discs and will hopefully do that in a
bit. Meanwhile, I have more info for you and some simple (I hope)
questions. If you want to insert your answers, that would be fine.
My camera (for stills and video) is set to the 4:3 ratio. It is capable of
being set to a 16:9 ratio if I wanted to do that. I looked in its TOOLS
menu and saw this info.
My TV is definitely a 4:3 TV. (I measured it with my tape measure and
divided W/L to get 1.33) The TV can show a 16:9 movie and just adds the
black bars on the top and bottom. Question: What will my old 4:3 movies
look like on a 16:9 TV whenever we buy one of those?
It seems to me that I want to set PE12 to the NTSC DV Standard you
mentioned.
I do NOT know how to “size your photos so that each has a 4:3 aspect”,
unless you mean doing that in Photoshop Elements, which I know how to do
(*see below)
I had NOT considered that I would need to watch the preset for the
‘Publish+Share’ step; so that’s good to know (I copied and pasted your info
for later use).
BTW, years ago when I had difficulties with my XP computer working on PE4
(had only 2 GB RAM), an Adobe tech told me to resize my photos * to have a
720 pixel width (the height would be automatically adjusted) to lower the
file size to something my computer could handle without crashing. (That
was back in the good ol’ days when Adobe support would actually talk with
their customers and try to help them in the first month)
My new computer has 16GB RAM. Do you think I still need to reduce file
size? One does lose some sharpness in the resizing process…..however,
these videos I’m making are travelogues and are for a fun way to view pics
and videos of a trip…nothing Earth shattering….and just a hobby to keep me
off the streets.
I truly appreciate the time you take to help me (and others). I was even
tempted to try to install my old PE4 on my new computer just to be able to
enjoy my hobby again.
My reply to the above....
1. If you camera is giving you 4:3 photos and your Premiere Elements 12/12.1 is running on Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 64 bit, then leave
the photos as is unless you have a lot of photos and each has pixel dimensions sizes way over 1920 x 1080 pixels that are giving your computer resource issues. If you have to down size them because of computer resources, then copy the photos to a computer desktop folder and also create an empty folder on the computer desktop.
a. Photoshop Elements Editor, File Menu/Process Multiple Files.
Process Files form Folder
Source - browse to and select the computer desktop folder with photos to be resized
Destination - browse to and select the empty computer desktop folder
Image Size
             Check Mark Next To Resize Images
            (no check mark next to Constrain Proportions)
            Type in Width = 1000 (set units for pixels)
            Type in Height = 750 (set unites for pixels)
File Size
           Check Mark Next to Convert Files To
           Set for JPEG High Quality
The above should work fine for a NTSC DV Standard project with a burn to DVD disc with preset NTSC_Dolby DVD (4:3 video).
2. With regard to the TV Set and 16:9 video....when you have the DVD-player attached to the TV, do you have the opportunity to bring up a display of menus with
controls for Picture and Aspect Ratio? From what you have written so far, it looks like the answer is no. I am not sure how your TV DVD
player will handle 16:9.
Best do a mini test run
1. Project preset set manually to NTSC DV Widescreen (please refer to post 1 link)
A few photos sized for 1600 x 1200
In the Premiere Elements project, use the Safety Margins inner rectangle for text placement
Publish+Share/Disc/DVD disc with preset = NTSC_Widescreen_Dolby DVD.
See what that looks like on your TV DVD player.
If you discovered that your current TV DVD player can be set for a 16:9 display, then I have a preferred workflow for
NTSC DV Widescreen which typically gives best possible results. Hints of things to come.
Please review and consider. Thanks for the follow ups.
ATR

Still Images Appear Pixelated When put into iMovie

I've been working on iMovie 9, and have just downloaded the new iMovie 10 (I think that's the newest one!) anyway, when working on the previous iMovie any still images I uploaded from iPhoto appeared in my projects just fine, even when I was adding the Ken Burns effect etc. I have just imported this project into the new iMovie and now all of my still photos appear crystal clear for a second and then become horrifically pixelated.
I am completely new to this and need to get this sorted as it's for a university project and I just can't get past these horrible pixely images, when they were fine on the previous iMovie! Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This should only be a temporary effect. Once the clips have been converted in to ProRes (a background process) they will be OK. If you do more editing the affected clips will again appear blurred until they are reprocessed.
(In iMovie 9 you had to wait for the clips to be transcoded when you imported them, before you could do any editing. In iMovie 10 you don't have to wait but the transcoding is done in the background.)
Geoff.

Still images added to iMovie HD disappear when exporting

I have added a few still images to my iMovie HD movie project, using the Media/Photos tabs in iMovie. The images are JPEGs in my iPhoto library. I place the images in the timeline, but when I export the iMovie project to my video camera or to an MPEG file, the images disappear. Any suggestions welcome.

I have added a few still images to my iMovie HD movie project, using the Media/Photos tabs in iMovie.
This is the iMovie '08 forum.
I place the images in the timeline, but when I export the iMovie project to my video camera or to an MPEG file, the images disappear.
While you may get a better response regarding your camera export in the iMovie HD forum, I am intrigued by your loss converting to MPEG. Could you be more specific regarding your work flow for this process?

Exporting video results in still image with original sound background

I've tried several times to export my home movie (MOV) into smaller formats using the export function. It worked fine on QT 6 but now I'm on version 7 and it's not working. The final product is a still image of the first frame and the original recording. I've tried exporting to various formats as well with the same result. Any help out there? Thanks!!!

Would it matter if the very first file from the camera was an AVI file? I first had QT convert that file to an MOV file which plays just fine.
As long as the MOV file plays in QT, it shouldn't matter at all. In fact, placing it in a known "space" should indicate it is convertible to other target formats even if only on your system configuration.

How to output video as still image frames?

Hi there,
We need to convert a movie file which has something like 375 frames into 60 still image files. How could we go about doing this using After Effects?
We have a lot of movie files to convert, is there a way to batch process this so that we can have it processing over the weekend?
I'd really appreciate anyone's help!
Thanks!
Abi

That link is helpful.
So if I wanted to render a batch process, I simply add all the movie files into the render queue and then specify for each of the files where I want them to be outputted to... And then once the render button is clicked it will do all of the items in the queue?
For example, for one composition I have 'Best Settings' selected for 'Render Settings' and then for the 'Output Module' I have it set as 'Based on "Lossless" '...
The 'Output Module' settings I have as the format 'JPEG Sequence', 'Post-Render Action: None', 'Video Output' is ticked; 'Channels: RGB', 'Depth: Millions of Colors".
I am outputting it to a specific folder.
Are these settings more or less correct for what I want to do?
Apologies for basic questions being asked, I don't want to start the process for it to go wrong when I am not here to oversee it!!!
Thanks!
Abi

Still images blurred

Why are all my still images blurred?
I am new to video editing.
I set up CS3PP to default Pal and placed the images on the time line and set to 'scale to frame" size.
I can see that the images have lost their quality in the Program Monitor screen but the images are clear in the Source Monitor screen
I viewed the images in Windows Media Player and they're blurred.
I made a test CD and the images are blurred on the TV "standard pal TV".

If your source images have a significantly greater frame size than your PAL project, then considerable loss of quality is inevitable when you convert to video. Interlacing further reduces the vertical resolution for DVD video.
That's the price you pay for using video to show stills. Maybe you should consider an alternative way to publish your stills if you want to retain quality. For example, a program like Irfan View (or one of the many others) that offer a slide show of full-resolution images on a computer screen.

Converting to still image

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