Dancing pixels, new heat sink, then no video at all

I have an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro video card with a 23" Cinema Display and a 15" Cinema display running from a Geffen ADC/VGA adapter. I'm have a dual 500MGHz G4 running OS 10.4. It started off as the dancing pixels on the screen. A few green spots here and there, then it got worse. Then there were green and red bands up and down my monitors. I opened up the case and saw that the fan on the heat sink had broken off. I bought an aftermarket fan and heat sink and installed it with no problems. When I booted up the computer there was an ATI icon on the main display where the apple logo usually is. There was also a part of the logo that was blinking red. Maybe it meant that the power supply was inadequate but I don't know. Then the computer froze on that logo. I tried to reboot a couple more times but then the computer just wouldn't boot at all. Anyone else have this problem?
AL

It's OK- happens to the best!
Unfortunately, the continuing screen artifacts could be caused by heat damage to the GPU done while the old fan was down. Heat damage to the chip is usually irreversible.
As for the second monitor, it also could be a victim of heat damage to the card. Does the monitor show when you "detect monitors", either in System Preferences/Displays, or the ATI Control panel?
And, you have verified that all your connections are secure?

Similar Messages

Dancing pixels, new heat sink, then no video

I have an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro video card with a 23" Cinema Display and a 15" Cinema display running from a Geffen ADC/VGA adapter. I'm have a dual 500MGHz G4 running OS 10.4. It started off as the dancing pixels on the screen. A few green spots here and there, then it got worse. Then there were green and red bands up and down my monitors. I opened up the case and saw that the fan on the heat sink had broken off. I bought an aftermarket fan and heat sink and installed it with no problems. When I booted up the computer there was an ATI icon on the main display where the apple logo usually is. There was also a part of the logo that was blinking red. Maybe it meant that the power supply was inadequate but I don't know. Then the computer froze on that logo. I tried to reboot a couple more times but then the computer just wouldn't boot at all. Anyone else have this problem?
AL

The red logo means you didn't connect the auxiliary power cable to the graphics board.

Corrected amd web site on new heat sink with pipes

http://forums.amd.com/index.php?showtopic=30520 foudn by doing yahoo search. amd + heat pipes.
and cant get the following to work, yet that was up for a while.
could be because it is a protected website. no idea what that means.
http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/ComputingSolutions/0,,30_288_13265_13295^13332,00.html
i found this and am curious it this will be available for amd processors that we have already purchased? Would be worth while if using amd parts would not void warrenty.

It isn't gone, the link was just wrong. It ships with FX processors only if you read further down. Probably with the newer ones that are running warmer.
As for warranty, you do not have to remain with the Stock Heat Sink to retain warranty, although if the heatsink goes bad and causes a CPU failure using a non-stock heatsink that will void warranty. :-/

Dancing pixels in large black areas of my new 30 inch ACD

I posted this on a thread in the 2004 forum, and then thought to post it here since I just bought my 30 inch LCD new from the Apple Store yesterday.
I have a dancing pixel / pixel static problem, which happens whenever there are large black spaces on the screen, such as the black computer name screen saver, or the black screen where you enter your password to get back into your account from secure sleep. The dancing pixel static also appears in Terminal windows that are set to have a solid black blackground.
To deal with this problem, I just decided to set my Terminal and gvim backgrounds to dark grey. This seems to be a tolerable solution. I also took all the firewire and USB cables out from the back of the display, which was proposed by Apple support as a fix to this sort problem last year, as someone reported in the forum.
I still have to deal with the dancing pixel static in the short interval between the time I activate any screensaver with a hot corner, and the appearance of the same. And the static is all over the place when I try to get out of the screen saver and have to give me password.
I think I can live with that as long as the problem doesn't get worse... Anyone have a similar experience?
Macbook Pro Mac OS X (10.4.6)

OK I went to the Apple Store today and they let me trade it in for a new 30 inch LCD. This one is definitely better. There is some pixel static still in large black areas. But much, much less. I hardly notice it, though I can if I look for it. But overall I'm very happy with it now. I love the screen. 30 inches really makes a huge difference.
I wonder though what's the deal with large black areas that causes this to happen on the LCDs.

Northbridge Heat Sink is running 90C. Is that too hot?

I've been having computer issues and just started watching temperatures. My Northbridge Heat Sink is running at 90C and I can't figure out if that is too high. And if it is what do I do about it? I've been inside the computer a lot lately because of graphics card and ram issues. Could that have done something? I have no idea what temperature it was running before since I've never paid attention.

I am using Temperature Monitor.
I've had several things happen recently with my computer and I can't seem to figure them all out at once.
First, my screen was freezing intermittently and had some pixeling then just finally it all went bad. After ruling out any hard drive problems I just replaced the 7300GT because I thought that was my primary issue.
Since I was already going to be opening the computer I decided to upgrade the ram as well. So I also installed new FBDIMMS - 4 x 2GB that I added to some 2 x 2GB that were added about 5 years ago.
(Side note: after the bad graphics card and before all the new hardward arrived my Airport Extreme seems to have also died on me! Haven't had time to completely troubleshoot that issue yet. I was waiting until the parts came in.)
After adding the RAM the "about this mac" showed that I had 12gb of ram running. Then the computer completely froze on me and the fan got really loud which it has never, ever sounded like that. I had to force it to shut down and then it just started up in its own. So now in "about this mac" it shows only 8gb of ram. It's not recognzing the original 2 x 2GB.
Because the of the fan getting so loud I decided to check temperatures and noticed the Northbridge Heat Sink at 90c and just wondered about it.
I'm just overwhelmed with so many issues. This computer has been great and I've never had such a rash of problems like this. It's getting over my head! And I've bothered my friends' husband enough already with all of this!

Larger heat sink for blue and white

AAargh. I bought a couple of g4 500 zif/s for a couple of blue and whites. I popped of the heatclip and installed the new zif. Then when I popped the clip back on one of the little white protuberances designed to hold the clip just crumbled to pieces. Does anyone know if there was a heat sink made that used the two wider potential clip points on either side of the one that broke?

Aha! Gotcha.. that certainly makes better sense now. I had removed the card to check the labels on the chipset and saw that it had the ATI Rage Pro 3D chipset, which now makes better sense as well after having read those articles that you posted links to. After reading your post I removed the Rage 128 just to test the Xclaim by itself (I had already run all of the updates for Panther last night, so I already had the 10.3.9 combo installed). Sure enough, the card works perfectly now AND shows 4MB of VRAM in System Profiler as it should. Seeing that and knowing that the maximum for this card is 8MB, I will be switching back to the Rage 128, although I will probably leave the Xclaim installed for nostalgia (that and I have no other use for it at present). That ebay link presents another question though.. the seller of that card indicates that the video-in is not supported under OSX. I'm wondering if that is true. The seller also indicates that the maximum additional memory that can be installed is 2MB, which is obviously NOT true, so I'm curious to find out if they are misinformed about the video-in as well.
Either way though, problem solved! Thank you for the research. I'll be honest, I didn't even think about searching through Apple's knowledge database. At the time, it didn't seem like the kind of problem that would affect a large number of machines.
edit: Haha! while I was typing this, the screensaver came on. I have it set on Flurry, and it's DEAD SLOW on the Xclaim! I will definitely be switching back to the more powerful Rage 128 now .
Message was edited by: SundanceCody

New to FIOS with several video issues

I switched to FIOS from Comcast four days ago and now have several intermittent video and guide issues I never experienced with Comcast. I've read many posts about the new firmware (1.7) which is rolling out this month, and was hoping to get some clarification on whether these issues are addressed with the update. Sorry if I am re-hashing issues already discussed, but I just want to be sure I'm dealing with the same problems as everyone else. The 2 STBs I have are the 7216 and the 7100. Both are connected via HDMI and both are v. 1.6.2.
Issues on both STBs
- Video and audio drops out for a second on HD channels, just a black screen. This occurs sometimes when switching to another channel, and usually does not recover unless I switch to another channel then back to it.
- When switching channels, the channel does not change, even though info bar does change and shows the desired channel (if I switch back and forth between channels it will eventually switch correctly. This issue can occur using the Channel up-down button, the "Last" button, or using the number keypad.) Also, the opposite sometimes occurs - the channel changes, but the info bar takes several seconds to catch up.
DVR (7216) only issues
- Pixelation when trying to rewind live video (video remains live but corruption occurs llike it is trying to rewind) . Going to another channel and then back usually makes normal rewinding possible.
- Signal drops when playing a recorded program (no audio and snow for a second or two). However, it is not the recording itself since it does not occur in the same place if you rewind the recording and play it again. This is almost the same kind of drop mentioned above, but there is snow instead of a blank screen.
I'm debating on going back to Comcast. I love the FIOS features, the extra HD channels, and the deal I got with Verizon, but it is all useless without stable performance.
Any feedback is greatly appreciated. -Mike

MikeC wrote:
Update: Switched from hdmi to component cables and this seems to have corrected the video and audio drops both on live TV and DVR playback. No noticable difference in picture quality. Still sometimes get a very short skip, especially the audio right after changing channels, but nothing significant and no more than what I experienced with Comcast (probably would not have even noticed if I didn't experience the bigger problem).
Still experiencing the same intermittent bugs when changing channels. The 7216 STB doesn't always change channels, although the info bar reflects the switch. The 7100 is the opposite - channel changes but info bar has long delay. Also on the 7216, still have issues backing up live video. It appears that the buffer becomes corrupt now and then. Could just be a bad drive which may be causing the channel changing issue as well. Resetting the STBs and router had no effect.
I should be getting 1.7 update soon and will see if this corrects any of these issues. I will also switch back to HDMI after the update and will post my findings
Most of what you described are supposed to be fixed with 1.7. And as you saw most of it was fixed by switching to the component cables. Those items that are fixed by this are the ones that are being focused on with the 1.7
However, the problem with the info bar not changing in a timely manner. This will likely not be fixed. Those that already have 1.7 still have this issue. Also I've noticed lately that both my DTV DVR and my TIVO are both starting to do the same thing as my 6416 Verizon. (I have DTV with Tivo at another location). All three DVR's on two different companies are doing the same delay of 3-5 seconds when changing channels before the info bar changes. I watch the boards here and dont see any solutions and both DTV and TIVO said it is just a delay in the software on the DVR and that there is nothing they can do about it. It sounded like a cop out but since it is happening with 3 differnt manufactures and on two different companies, I'm not sure where to put the blame on this one.
the short skip that you see when changing channels is normal. usually this is when the resolution of the program changes especially when going from SD to HD. I've seen this on every digital system I've ever used. Dont think this is anything to be conserned about.
The problem with the box not changing channels. This is another story all together. This is one to be worried about and work on correcting. Does it only happen when using the remote? what if you use the channel up and down on the box itself? will it do the same with the other remote from the other box? Have you tried calling TS and had them reset the box yet?
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Error exists between keyboard and chair.

How to make 260 gtx 55nm VRM custom heat sink

Warning: This will void your warranty
The caveat above added by Mike, Forum Administrator
How to Create a Custom 260 GTX 55nm VRM Heat Sink
Introduction: This guide was created to show how you can make a custom VRM heat sink from the stock heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooler.
Reason: Many aftermarket companies, such as Thermalright and Arctic, fail to provide a good VRM heat sink for the 55nm 200 series GTX’s. The solution often involves poorly sticking thermal tape or no solution at all, such as the Arctic cooler, which states it’s ok to leave the 260 GTX 55nm VRM chips uncovered. To leave the VRM chipset uncovered maybe ok for stock clocked cards but what about an over clocked card or an enthusiast trying to push the performance envelope? That is after all, what these aftermarket cooling solutions are all about; especially the Arctic cooler which can cool up to 250 watts! Fortunately the solution is very easy and should take you no more than 10 to 15 minutes to address.
Use: To create a custom made VRM heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooling solution such as the Arctic cooler and Thermalright cooler.
Tools:
Dremel, with metal cutting wheel and sanding wheel.
Thermal Pads, which you can buy in sheets from any performance pc store and should be 1.0 mm in thickness.
Philips Screw Driver, very small size would be ideal.
Before we begin I’d like to remind you that removing or tampering with the stock heat sink will more than likely void your warranty. This guide was also constructed assuming an aftermarket cooler will be installed. The card used in this guide is a MSI 260 GTX 55nm with reference PCB design (REV 1) but will also work with other 200 series GTX cards. When working on any electronic device, always make sure you are well grounded!!!
Step 1: Remove the screws with the springs only from the back side of the graphics card as shown in figure 1A. There is a total of 13 spring screws that need to be removed. Check to make sure that your card does not have two small additional securing screws which are located on the exhaust side of your graphics card with your DVI ports. If your card does contain these additional screws, remove them before continuing on to step 2.
Step 2: Gently work the card from the heat sink. NOTE: Do NOT force or pry heavily, you will damage your card. It may take a little caressing depending on how much poor quality thermal putty was used from the manufacturer.
Step 3: Remove the fan power connector from the fan power port as shown in figure 2A.
Step 4: Remove and discard all the old thermal pads. You should never re-use thermal pads and especially not the low quality manufacturer ones! NOTE: keep in mind the location of the VRM thermal pads since you will be making replacements.
Step 5: Clean off the voltage regulator chips with a tissue or with a soft eraser as instructed by Arctic. Personally I use a tissue very lightly dipped in alcohol to clean the surface of the chips. The voltage regulator chips for the 260 GTX 55nm are shown in figure 3A. NOTE: I will not be covering the cleaning of the GPU or Ram since it does not pertain to the VRM heat sink.
Step 6: Flip the heat sink so you are looking at the bottom where the thermal pads were attached. There are 6 very little screws which need to be removed from the assembly. Figure 4A shows the location of the screws attaching the plastic shroud assembly. Once they are removed gently pry the plastic shroud off and set it aside.
Step 7: Now turn the heat sink over and remove the 4 black screws from the top side of the heat sink. The fan should come off freely and set that aside as well. Your heat sink should look like figure 5A.
Step 8: Now we are ready to begin cutting the stock heat sink. With a sharpie draw a black as shown in figure 6A. This will give you a marker to follow when cutting.
Step 9: Attach the metal cutting wheel to the dremel and begin cutting across the black line. Danger: ALWAYS wear eye protection when cutting a metal object or any object. The metal is very soft and not much force is needed to cut it. Try not to damage the mounting holes when cutting (figure 6A). You may need to lightly sand the cut edge depending on how rough or jagged it is after cutting. When you’re done you should have a piece as shown in figure 7A. This will be your VRM heat sink. Important: MAKE SURE you clean the heat sink well and remove all metal particles. Also allow the heat sink to dry well before installing!!
Step 10: Next cut the new thermal pads to the shape of your VRM chips. It should look like figure 8A when you are finished.
Step 11: Gently place the heat sink into place and attach the screws. When you are done it should look like figure 9A.
Congratulations on your custom made VRM heat sink. The great thing is that it never has the risk of falling off, such as thermal taped ones, and can be removed and installed as many times as you wish. It also does not contain thermal adhesives which also do not facilitate removal as well. The stock spring screws will also insure secure contact between the VRM chips and the sink. The custom heat sink comes with nicely built in fins and much better cooling performance then individual dinky VRM heat sinks provided from the Arctic or Thermalright coolers.
p.s. It is possible to put old heat sink back on the card since each section has its own mounting screws but I would not recommend this unless absolutely necessary.

I'm running a corsair 750 watt PSU
Q660
Gigabyte g31 motherboard
1TB WD Hard drive
OCZ 1066mhz of ram
And I recently swapped the lighting with a gtx 260 and see what would happen in the same system. The GTX260 ran games smoothly, and would run furmark fine with the newest nvidia drivers. Swap back the gtx 275 lightning, and games are really slow and choppy especially when you add any kind of AA. The FPS is literally cut in half when I switched to the msi gtx 275. I think it's safe to say that the GTX275 is defective.

Cleaning heat sink on Macbook Pro Retina after liquid spill... HELP!

Hello all...
My wonderful boyfriend spilled about 3-4 tablespoons of orange juice on my Macbook Pro Retina (15in) on Thursday. Right over the left speaker and onto the ESC, ~, brightness up and down, 1, 2, 3, TAB, Q, W, Caps Lock, and A key. It also dripped down and got into the vent. I immediately (like within 1 second) grabbed it and turned it upside down, and wiped it up while holding it upside down. I then turned it off and held it upside down for some time, and let it sit open and off after that. I turned it back on the next day and had no apparent issues. (However today some of the keys have been "crunchy", so I think I better clean them...)
I couldn't get it to the Apple store until yesterday because of Hurricane Sandy and not having power or anything. I had the genius check it out. He could only take off the back without having to charge me anything and he said that none of the liquid sensors were tripped in the back of the computer but that there was some dried up orange juice in the heat sink (but apparently not really anywhere else which he said makes me the luckiest person in the world). He took a photo on his phone and showed me... just some residue and orange juice that looked "dried up" in like 5 or 6 of the vents. He said that I could try to clean it myslf with alchohol wipes and a toothpick at my own risk. But I am very nervous as I am not exactly tech savvy... I watched videos on how to take the back off, but the part about disconnecting the battery and all gets me nervous. My question is, do I have to disconnect the battery to just gently clean up the heat sink with a little toothpick and alchohol wipes? Do I have to ground myself? What do I do?
Also, how necessary do you think it is to even clean it up? Could the heat sink need to be replaced in the future from this? Is it really a big deal? I'm looking for honest answers, since I felt like the genuis guy had too much liabality to say anything to me about anything.
Unrelated, what are the chances that liquid got through the keyboard to anything more sensitive to liquid? The genius couldnt really give me an answer. I have noticed just as I am typing now that sometimes it seems that the cursor of where I am typing will just jump back to the end of the previous line when I hit the Caps Lock key... it's very strange and I'm getting agita just thinking about it. Could that be a problem with just my keys getting stuck somewhere or a bigger problem with hardware being damaged... help and THANK YOU!

When i start any game the CPU goes up to 90° in 2 minutes and the computer shutdown after at least 5 min.
I found a solution. after a lot of research i checked that my fans are working on the minimum means at 2000 rpm even when the games are on. so i install it a software called smcFancontrol that u can control ur fan speed and i make it up to 4000 pm (you can do it with iStat menu too) and i tested my computer. I Have been playing on my macbook pro since this morning and there is no problem of overheat or shutdown.
Is it normal that we need to change the fan configuration or control to play a game that was working fine before.?
for cooling my machine i have a mStand Rain design http://www.raindesigninc.com/pic_high%20res/mstand_macbookpro_keyboard_perspecti ve_unibody.jpg

Best cleaning steps for g4 processor and heat sink?

I just pick up a dual 800 quicksilver cpu. What is the least expensive/best way to clean the die surfaces as well as the heat sink surfaces? Also does anyone know a link showing stable higher than originally rated speeds?

Hi pheidius-
The surface description is odd- I would expect it to be smooth (as all heatsink surfaces I have seen).
You may be correct on the thermal pad. It would be the only logical explanation..... I've never really "dissected" a thermal pad before- just scraped them off and tossed 'em.
If it is a thermal pad, you may have clearance problems with just thermal compound. This is, of course, dependant on the thickness of the previous pad......Just check the heatsink and it's contact on the processor after you have finished cleaning the thermal pad from the heatsink. It should be obvious if there will be clearance problems.
Recommended removal proceedure for a thermal pad is to use a plastic card (like a credit card) or a plastic putty knife.
When replacing thermal pads, after the old is completely removed, the heatsink surface needs to be heated until hot to the touch (use a heat gun), and then apply the new pad, pushing the pad on firmly and evenly.
Note: When using thermal pads, wait until the heatsink and pad are cool before removing the protective paper and installing on the processors.
If you end up using thermal compound, carefully apply the compound. Getting sloppy, and applying too much, especially with Arctic Silver, can cause problems. The compound is not just thermally conductive.......it is also electrically conductive.
Back to the overclocking question- This article may be of interest.

Wind Box DC100 change fan/heat sink

Hi,
I just bought the MSI Wind Box DC100 with the AMD E-450 APU, which is nice and all. But the fan on this thing is so insanely noisy, I have had a look inside (I know, warranty voided and all that) and everything looks very proprietary. I am looking to replace the fan, or the whole heat sink including fan if possible. Does anyone know of any solution to that? I have not found any standard coolers that has the same form factor as the one used in DC100.

I completely agree with the first post; the fan in the Wind Box DC100 is insanely noisy.
I bought this tiny PC for using as a mediacenter, but the fan is always running and has a high pitch that it's impossible to ignore.
Even though I've been buying MSI motherboards and PCs for years, this is surely a serious design flaw; it's a real pity, because the DC100 is a nice computer in all other aspects. I solved my problem by removing the original fan and "fitting" a huge external fan (9 cm in diameter) on the left side. It was a LONG work, because I had to cut the internal steel chassis, then the external plastic chassis, find the correct pinout and solder the small original custom connector to the new fan, remove the old fan and adapt a heatsink to take its place, route the cable and so on..
Several hours of work, but the result is completely satisfactory; the new fan is impossible to hear at maximum speed when you are 10 cm away; it's almost like having a fanless PC.
I used an Arctic F9 Pro PWM, which is 12 Volt, while the computer outputs 5 volt in that socket; it's not a problem, because in this way the fan goes at half the nominal speed (2000 rpm @ 12 volt ==> about 1000 rpm @ 5 volt), which is more than enough to keep the CPU about 10° C below the typical temperature I experienced using the old fan, while being completely silent.
At startup the DC100 outputs a message that the fan is not working (it stays for 3 seconds, then the system continues booting without a problem); that's probably because the rpm it gets from the PWM signal is way lower than that of the original fan; the rpm value returned is correct indeed, and I can monitor it in Windows.
This is the colour scheme I used to solder the old connector to the new fan:
Original fan Arctic F9 Pro PWM
Black GND Black
Yellow +5 Red
Green Sign Yellow
Blue PWM Blue
The new fan is really good; it's isolated from the computer where it is attached by using 4 rubber ties which don't propagate vibrations to the chassis. I bought it for 4,38 Euro, which would be a real bargain, if only slightly less work to fit it to the PC were needed.

Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)

I recently acquired a mid-2012 MacBook Pro that is in need of repair. The device was advertised by the seller as needing repair, and I wanted to experiment in repairing such a problem.
The MBP suffered the symptoms of a failed logic board - no power, LEDs don't light up on either the side of the Mac or the MagSafe Adapter. Per the tutorial on Ifixit.com, I took a look inside the laptop and was able to safely remove the logic board. As I examined the heat sink and the thermal paste connecting it to the processor, I found that the paste had completely dried up. In other words, as I completed part 3 of Step 27 ("Carefully remove the heat sink from the processor."), the heat sink could be removed immediately after I unscrewed it from the logic board - no need to use the spudger to loosen the paste. While examining the interior, the battery also seemed to have signs of wear (the screw tab closest to the optical drive appears cracked); no damage/leakage of battery cells detected.
What are my options at this point? Will it be worth it if I try to clean the old paste from the heat sink & processor, then reapply as instructed (on ifixit.com or other reputable DIY repair sites)? Or, because the battery is slightly damaged in addition to the lack of processor-to-heat sink connectivity, would it be easier/better in the long run to make an appointment at my nearest Apple Store for a Genius Bar consultation?
Thanks for any advice & comments!

Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
This solved my question This helped me
And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only. I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out. I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also). I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge.

Shimmering + Dancing Pixels

I'm not sure how to trigger this and it's driving me nuts! At first I thought i was tired and seeing things, but then i looked closer. Occasionally my iMac displays a few dozen red pixels jumping around and dancing in once concentrated area. This is usually easier to see on black and sometimes occurs when I'm waking up my machine from standby; other times at random.
I know that this was a video card issue with certain iMacs, but my serial number falls outside of the range of known problematic units. When dealing with applecare, do i need to be able to trigger this dancing pixels issue to show them what i'm talking about? Applecare time is ticking!
Has anyone else had the same issue?
Thanks for any input!
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.8)

If the pixels move, your video card is bad so your logic board will need to be replaced. You will need to contact Applecare and get the ball rolling. As long as you initiate the call before your Applecare runs out, you should be ok even it takes longer for them to be convinced of the problem.

New Need Sink needed for MSI P7N Diamond nForce 780i SLi (Socket 775)

Hi Guys,
I've been having a problem with my machine where it will be working away as and then suddenly restart. I haven't been able to pin point the problem as it can happen regardless of applications or load thats on the machine. I've also run a couple of app's to check the RAM and its fine. The only thing I've been noticing is that the 4 cores of my Q6600 seem to be running a bit hot. On average on Idle there running between 45-55oc. Does this seem normal? I'm thinking that the cpu might be over heating when I'm running apps. I've seen one of the cores up around 68oc when under a bit of load. I'm using the stock heat sink at the moment and would like to cool things down it see if that helps. Can anyone recommend something suitable for my motherbroad.
Thanks
Garret

Quote from: Garret C on 15-October-09, 17:22:47
Intel Core 2 Quad Pro Q6600 "Energy Efficient SLACR 95W Edition" 2.40GHz (1066FSB)
MSI P7N Diamond nForce 780i SLi (Socket 775) PCI-Express DDR2 Motherboard with Free Creative X-FI Card
Thermaltake ToughPower 750W Modular Power Supply
My Q6600 (also G0/SLACR but don't know what you mean by "Pro") is OC'd to 3.4GHz and has had no problems running stable. Highest temps during OCCT/Linpack and LinX/Linpack peak at 80C 1st/2nd cores - 76 C 3rd/4th cores. Other tests (e.g. Prime95 small FFTs) run much cooler. I've run 2hr+ linpack tests with no errors, so I don't think you need to worry about your temps yet.
However, may I suggest that you check into is your power supply, in particular the modular connections. I had the ToughPower 750W Modular before upgrading to PCP&C. I noticed that the ToughPower's modular connections had a tendency to be just a tad loose. They wouldn't dislodge but they had a little bit of play. I could jiggle them ever so slightly while they were connected. As a result, the CPU power cable (8-pin/4-pin) would cause a restart upon the slightest disturbance or sensation. I've since discovered that modular connectors also affect the efficiency, power noise levels, and overall performance of a PSU. All in all, I plan to avoid modular connectors entirely going forward. Many newer cases have excellent cable management features and even old-style cases can be cleaned up with a little planning and effort. So the modular cabling advantages don't offset the severe disadvantages. Even if your problem isn't due to the PSU, it's something I'd recommend considering replacing.
Good luck. Hope all the suggestions are able to help you nail down and resolve your issue.

New aluminum Macbook and S-Video

New aluminum Macbook and S-Video
It have come to the conclusion that the new MacBook's and MacBook Pro's can not output to S-video. I have tired the Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI and then the Apple DVI to Video but no luck, the two do not connect as the Mini DisplayPort to DVI is missing 4 pin holes. I have tired Mini DisplayPort to VGA and then a VGA to s-video adapter but no luck, the MacBook did not even see a second display.
Is there any hope to achieve my goal? I need s-video out for work and will have to exchange the computer for a Black MacBook if the new computer can not output to s-video.
Any thoughts?

*Mini Review - PC to Video EZ*
_*It works!*_
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3236/29803095101fb261f66ao.jpg!
I, and many others, have been looking for a way to output video (composite and s-video) from the NEW Macbooks and MacBook Pro's sporting the Mini DisplayPort since Apple as yet to release such adapter. I use my computer to output video (s-video) for digital slide shows and presentations. If our new aluminum MacBook could not meet this requirement back to the store it would go.
While searching the web for a adapter, converter or whatever could help get video out of the new MacBook I quickly learned ($10 later) that a simple VGA to s-video cable would not work.
!http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41fD46i4gVL.SS400.jpg!
*NO GOOD!*
I soon came across the PC to Video EZ. It is sold at several online retailers but I finaly decided to buy it from NewEgg.com (links at bottom of post). NewEgg is retailer I knew I could trust and get fast shipping from. I ordered the converter box on Friday and it arrived today (Monday) with standard shipping!
Bottom line, the PC to Video EZ from GrandTec outputs video (both composite and s-video) at equal quality to Apple's own video adapters used on previous (pre-DisplayPort) computers. I, owning a MacBook Pro with DVI to video adapter, could not tell the difference.
The device itself is small. It is nothing you would complain about carrying around and it gets the job done.
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3222/29803104503aa9314222o.jpg!
*PC to Video EZ from GrandTec*
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3169/2979454029c07766ce1bo.jpg!
*PC to Video EZ with new button-less Track Pad*
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3171/2979454137839fb19b1do.jpg!
*PC to Video EZ with new aluminum MacBook*
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3018/29794542513448691da0o.jpg!
*PC to Video EZ with new Mini DisplayPort to VGA adapter (still a required purchase)*
The back of the unit has two VGA ports, one in and one out. You can use the VGA out port as a pass through so you can still have your computer connected to a VGA monitor while outputting to video. A feature I will never use but it is still nice to have, especially for desktops.
Also on the back is the video ("yellow" composite) and s-video out.
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3150/2980310816fd29234965o.jpg!
Back
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3209/2980310910a387be2a8fo.jpg!
*Back with end of Mini DisplayPort to VGA adapter*
On the right side of the unit you will find a place to plug in the power adapter. Good news, its powered by USB. Bad news, the thing needs to be powered at all... More bad news, the unit does not use a standard USB cable. You better not loose the one that comes in the box! At least there are no power bricks to lug around and a simple USB to wall power adapter (like the one used with iPod or the iPhone) should also power the device. My testing showed that power is required.
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3162/2980311010daa3207621o.jpg!
*Power in. Why no USB A to USB B?*
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3032/2980309856563935f1c3o.jpg!
*USB power cable*
The unit comes with every cable you would need which is a huge plus! Included in the box is a short VGA cable (3 feet, which is perfect), a s-video cable and a composite video cable.
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3168/2979453321a01c534560o.jpg!
*Included cables. All you need to buy is the Mini DisplayPort to VGA adapter.*
Although not as neat as an Apple Mini DisplayPort to video adapter would be it does get the job done.
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3251/29794536291b56a7febdo.jpg!
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3051/2979453521fe14baa0b1o.jpg!
*Typical Setup*
!http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3061/29803103608b7b074438o.jpg!
*Final Product*
*The unit supports the following screen resolutions & refresh rates.*
* # 640x480@60/72/75/85Hz, 800x600@60/72/75/85Hz, 1024x768@60/75/85Hz and 1280x1024@60Hz. _On my SD TV I had luck with 1024x768@85Hz. Anything larger would not display._*
Pros:
* Power supplied from USB ~NO BULKY EXTERNAL POWER SUPPLY!
* No software required! (works with Mac or Windows or any OS!)
* Composite and S-Video outputs
* VGA IN and VGA OUT for simultaneous TV/monitor viewing
Cons:
* Requires power
* Does not use a standard USB cable
* Not as neat as an Apple Mini DisplayPort to video adapter would be
* You still need to buy the Apple Mini DisplayPort to VGA adapter
*Package Contents*
* PC to Video EZ
* User Guide
* Composite Video Cable
* S-Video Cable
* USB Power Cable
* VGA Cable
Links:
http://www.grandtec.com/products/video/untimateEZ.html
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815117101
I HOPE THIS HELPED MANY LOOKING FOR A SIMILAR SOLUTION. I KNOW IF I WOULD HAVE FOUND THIS POST I WOULD HAVE BEEN VERY, VERY HAPPY! PASS IT ON.

Dancing pixels, new heat sink, then no video at all

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