Northbridge Heat Sink is running 90C. Is that too hot?

I've been having computer issues and just started watching temperatures. My Northbridge Heat Sink is running at 90C and I can't figure out if that is too high. And if it is what do I do about it? I've been inside the computer a lot lately because of graphics card and ram issues. Could that have done something? I have no idea what temperature it was running before since I've never paid attention.

I am using Temperature Monitor.
I've had several things happen recently with my computer and I can't seem to figure them all out at once.
First, my screen was freezing intermittently and had some pixeling then just finally it all went bad. After ruling out any hard drive problems I just replaced the 7300GT because I thought that was my primary issue.
Since I was already going to be opening the computer I decided to upgrade the ram as well. So I also installed new FBDIMMS - 4 x 2GB that I added to some 2 x 2GB that were added about 5 years ago.
(Side note: after the bad graphics card and before all the new hardward arrived my Airport Extreme seems to have also died on me! Haven't had time to completely troubleshoot that issue yet. I was waiting until the parts came in.)
After adding the RAM the "about this mac" showed that I had 12gb of ram running. Then the computer completely froze on me and the fan got really loud which it has never, ever sounded like that. I had to force it to shut down and then it just started up in its own. So now in "about this mac" it shows only 8gb of ram. It's not recognzing the original 2 x 2GB.
Because the of the fan getting so loud I decided to check temperatures and noticed the Northbridge Heat Sink at 90c and just wondered about it.
I'm just overwhelmed with so many issues. This computer has been great and I've never had such a rash of problems like this. It's getting over my head! And I've bothered my friends' husband enough already with all of this!

Similar Messages

  • What is Northbridge Heat Sink?

    Hi everyone,
    I have downloaded a trial version of Hardware Monitor Lite to try it out. One of the temperature readings it gives is for Northbridge Heat Sink. What IS Northbridge Heat Sink? What is a normal reading in Celcius?
    Rio.

    <What IS Northbridge Heat Sink?>
    see below R.C.
    http://www.atruereview.com/NB32J/index.php
    smc fan-control does the trick of loades of us its a free download, RioCreations.
    Fr.BlayZay.

  • [Solved] No grub installed. Now laptop running a little too hot.

    I had fedora and crunchbang already running on my laptop so I had't installed grub. Now my laptop is running little hot even after installing Laptop Mode Tools
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    Last edited by celebrimbor (2014-10-12 07:10:09)

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  • How to make 260 gtx 55nm VRM custom heat sink

    Warning: This will void your warranty
    The caveat above added by Mike, Forum Administrator
    How to Create a Custom 260 GTX 55nm VRM Heat Sink
    Introduction:  This guide was created to show how you can make a custom VRM heat sink from the stock heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooler.
    Reason:  Many aftermarket companies, such as Thermalright and Arctic, fail to provide a good VRM heat sink for the 55nm 200 series GTX’s.  The solution often involves poorly sticking thermal tape or no solution at all, such as the Arctic cooler, which states it’s ok to leave the 260 GTX 55nm VRM chips uncovered.  To leave the VRM chipset uncovered maybe ok for stock clocked cards but what about an over clocked card or an enthusiast trying to push the performance envelope?  That is after all, what these aftermarket cooling solutions are all about; especially the Arctic cooler which can cool up to 250 watts!  Fortunately the solution is very easy and should take you no more than 10 to 15 minutes to address.
    Use:  To create a custom made VRM heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooling solution such as the Arctic cooler and Thermalright cooler.
    Tools: 
    Dremel, with metal cutting wheel and sanding wheel.
    Thermal Pads, which you can buy in sheets from any performance pc store and should be 1.0 mm in thickness.
    Philips Screw Driver, very small size would be ideal.
    Before we begin I’d like to remind you that removing or tampering with the stock heat sink will more than likely void your warranty.  This guide was also constructed assuming an aftermarket cooler will be installed.  The card used in this guide is a MSI 260 GTX 55nm with reference PCB design (REV 1)  but will also work with other 200 series GTX cards.  When working on any electronic device, always make sure you are well grounded!!!
    Step 1:  Remove the screws with the springs only from the back side of the graphics card as shown in figure 1A.  There is a total of 13 spring screws that need to be removed.  Check to make sure that your card does not have two small additional securing screws which are located on the exhaust side of your graphics card with your DVI ports.  If your card does contain these additional screws, remove them before continuing on to step 2.
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    Step 3:  Remove the fan power connector from the fan power port as shown in figure 2A.
    Step 4:  Remove and discard all the old thermal pads.  You should never re-use thermal pads and especially not the low quality manufacturer ones!  NOTE: keep in mind the location of the VRM thermal pads since you will be making replacements.
    Step 5:  Clean off the voltage regulator chips with a tissue or with a soft eraser as instructed by Arctic.  Personally I use a tissue very lightly dipped in alcohol to clean the surface of the chips.  The voltage regulator chips for the 260 GTX 55nm are shown in figure 3A.  NOTE: I will not be covering the cleaning of the GPU or Ram since it does not pertain to the VRM heat sink.
    Step 6:  Flip the heat sink so you are looking at the bottom where the thermal pads were attached.  There are 6 very little screws which need to be removed from the assembly.  Figure 4A shows the location of the screws attaching the plastic shroud assembly.  Once they are removed gently pry the plastic shroud off and set it aside. 
    Step 7:  Now turn the heat sink over and remove the 4 black screws from the top side of the heat sink.  The fan should come off freely and set that aside as well.  Your heat sink should look like figure 5A.
    Step 8:  Now we are ready to begin cutting the stock heat sink.  With a sharpie draw a black as shown in figure 6A.  This will give you a marker to follow when cutting. 
    Step 9:  Attach the metal cutting wheel to the dremel and begin cutting across the black line.  Danger: ALWAYS wear eye protection when cutting a metal object or any object.  The metal is very soft and not much force is needed to cut it.  Try not to damage the mounting holes when cutting (figure 6A).  You may need to lightly sand the cut edge depending on how rough or jagged it is after cutting.  When you’re done you should have a piece as shown in figure 7A.  This will be your VRM heat sink.  Important: MAKE SURE you clean the heat sink well and remove all metal particles.  Also allow the heat sink to dry well before installing!!
    Step 10: Next cut the new thermal pads to the shape of your VRM chips.  It should look like figure 8A when you are finished.
    Step 11:  Gently place the heat sink into place and attach the screws.  When you are done it should look like figure 9A. 
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    I'm running a corsair 750 watt PSU
    Q660
    Gigabyte g31 motherboard
    1TB WD Hard drive
    OCZ 1066mhz of ram
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  • Question about the heat sinks in these models

    Hey all,
    Can anyone tell me about the heat sinks used in these model laptops?
    Here are my questions:
    Are they made from pure copper?
    What is inside the tubes that run between the processor covers and the fan? Is it just air? or something else?
    Is the thermal paste that sticks to the processors toxic?
    I'm not sure this is the right place to ask but thought i might as well try.
    Solved!
    Go to Solution.

    you mean the entire T series range, or are you after information on a specific T model?
    1) most of the parts are made of pure copper
    2) there is a working fluid within heat pipe, which should either ethanol or acetone. The phase change from liquid to gaseous phase is what transports the heat away from CPU/GPU/motherboard chipsets.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe
    3) thermal paste usually contains silicon and silver, it is not to be ingested as such.
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease
    Regards,
    Jin Li
    May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
    I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

  • Replace heat sink or fan (or both)?

    Would replacing the heat sink or fan (or both) help to to reduce the temperature of a really warm powerbook or is it hopeless?

    never seen "temperature guidelines" in any sources - either Apple service manuals ot otherwise.
    "official position" is that laptop is supposed to run hot sometimes.
    as a guess, replacing fan/heatsink is probably not worthwhile, especially since hot temps could be caused by different components, such as hard drive, RAM, AirPort card etc.

  • Wind Box DC100 change fan/heat sink

    Hi,
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    I completely agree with the first post; the fan in the Wind Box DC100 is insanely noisy.
    I bought this tiny PC for using as a mediacenter, but the fan is always running and has a high pitch that it's impossible to ignore.
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    At startup the DC100 outputs a message that the fan is not working (it stays for 3 seconds, then the system continues booting without a problem); that's probably because the rpm it gets from the PWM signal is way lower than that of the original fan; the rpm value returned is correct indeed, and I can monitor it in Windows.
    This is the colour scheme I used to solder the old connector to the new fan:
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    Black          GND     Black
    Yellow         +5      Red
    Green          Sign    Yellow
    Blue           PWM     Blue
    The new fan is really good; it's isolated from the computer where it is attached by using 4 rubber ties which don't propagate vibrations to the chassis. I bought it for 4,38 Euro, which would be a real bargain, if only slightly less work to fit it to the PC were needed.

  • Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)

    I recently acquired a mid-2012 MacBook Pro that is in need of repair.  The device was advertised by the seller as needing repair, and I wanted to experiment in repairing such a problem. 
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    What are my options at this point?  Will it be worth it if I try to clean the old paste from the heat sink & processor, then reapply as instructed (on ifixit.com or other reputable DIY repair sites)?  Or, because the battery is slightly damaged in addition to the lack of processor-to-heat sink connectivity, would it be easier/better in the long run to make an appointment at my nearest Apple Store for a Genius Bar consultation?
    Thanks for any advice & comments!

    Re: Heat Sink on MacBook Pro (mid 2012)
    created by PlotinusVeritas in MacBook Pro - View the full discussion
    This solved my question  This helped me
    And why again are you worried about re-applying thermal paste to the heat sink to CPU on logic, ...since youve already indicated the logic board is fried....?
    I assume you got a new logic and are asking about grabbing some white thermal paste off Ebay.....or?
    ... or I'm basically seeking the opinions of more experienced members of the Community (such as yourself ) that can verify my attempt to personally fix the device are not worth it, and are better left to Apple's Geniuses.
    Actually, I haven't gotten a new logic board yet. More or less, I was taking it apart for inspectional purposes only.  I wasn't intending to remove the heat sink, but the thermal paste was already worn out.  I am not sure if the logic board is fried, though after examining the whole laptop some more, the previous owner may have tried to do some fixing/upgrading and failed (foam missing, a bracket for the HDD missing also).  I was examining the logic board to determine if there have been any liquid damages to the machine - none found, to the best of my knowledge. 

  • Corrected amd web site on new heat sink with pipes

    http://forums.amd.com/index.php?showtopic=30520 foudn by doing yahoo search. amd + heat pipes.
    and cant get the following to work, yet that was up for a while.
    could be because it is a protected website. no idea what that means.
    http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/ComputingSolutions/0,,30_288_13265_13295^13332,00.html
    i found this and am curious it this will be available for amd processors that we have already purchased? Would be worth while if using amd parts would not void warrenty.

    It isn't gone, the link was just wrong.  It ships with FX processors only if you read further down.  Probably with the newer ones that are running warmer.
    As for warranty, you do not have to remain with the Stock Heat Sink to retain warranty, although if the heatsink goes bad and causes a CPU failure using a non-stock heatsink that will void warranty. :-/

  • G3 Pismo processor replacement - no heat sink bracket???

    Hi there
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    thanks

    troy:
    are any of the later G4 Powerbook processors interchangable with the Pismo?
    Unfortunately, no Would have been nice, though.
    a G4 processor and a gig of RAM I know the Pis would be a great back-up
    There are several threads in this forum which discuss processor upgrade. This one traces my own decision making process. As you will note in the thread, this is not an inexpensive upgrade. In my case it was an easy decision since this is my primary computer. I recommend getting your computer going and see it runs for you. At later stage, if you decide to go this route, you can research the different threads, and, maybe, even post one of your own. There are many Pismo owners who have upgraded and would love to share their stories.
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    cornelius

  • Expected cost to replace macbook heat sink

    Does anyone know how much it would cost have have apple replace the heat sink in my early 2008 model macbook? The warranty is obviously gone, but other than the fact that it overheats, the computer is in fine condition. here are my basic specs.
    2008 model mac book (black)
    2.4 ghz intel core 2 duo prcessor
    2 gb 667 MHz DDR2 SDRAM (upgraded from 2 GB by user)
    Intel GMA X3100 144 mb graphics
    running lion OSX
    I don't trust myself with opening up the main casing, I barely trusted myself upgrading the RAM.
    Approx cost anyone?

    The heat sink and fan are an assembly. What makes you think there's a problem with the heat sink specifically? Have you reset the SMC?
    Laptops with a battery you can remove 
    Shut down the computer.
    Disconnect the MagSafe power adapter from the computer, if it's connected.
    Remove the battery.
    Press and hold the power button for 5 seconds.
    Release the power button.
    Reconnect the battery and MagSafe power adapter.
    Press the power button to turn on the computer.

  • Larger heat sink for blue and white

    AAargh. I bought a couple of g4 500 zif/s for a couple of blue and whites. I popped of the heatclip and installed the new zif. Then when I popped the clip back on one of the little white protuberances designed to hold the clip just crumbled to pieces. Does anyone know if there was a heat sink made that used the two wider potential clip points on either side of the one that broke?

    Aha! Gotcha.. that certainly makes better sense now. I had removed the card to check the labels on the chipset and saw that it had the ATI Rage Pro 3D chipset, which now makes better sense as well after having read those articles that you posted links to. After reading your post I removed the Rage 128 just to test the Xclaim by itself (I had already run all of the updates for Panther last night, so I already had the 10.3.9 combo installed). Sure enough, the card works perfectly now AND shows 4MB of VRAM in System Profiler as it should. Seeing that and knowing that the maximum for this card is 8MB, I will be switching back to the Rage 128, although I will probably leave the Xclaim installed for nostalgia (that and I have no other use for it at present). That ebay link presents another question though.. the seller of that card indicates that the video-in is not supported under OSX. I'm wondering if that is true. The seller also indicates that the maximum additional memory that can be installed is 2MB, which is obviously NOT true, so I'm curious to find out if they are misinformed about the video-in as well.
    Either way though, problem solved! Thank you for the research. I'll be honest, I didn't even think about searching through Apple's knowledge database. At the time, it didn't seem like the kind of problem that would affect a large number of machines.
    edit: Haha! while I was typing this, the screensaver came on. I have it set on Flurry, and it's DEAD SLOW on the Xclaim! I will definitely be switching back to the more powerful Rage 128 now .
    Message was edited by: SundanceCody

  • MSI R6950 Twin Frozr III Power Edition – Replacement Heat Sink?

    Hello,
    Does anyone know of a good 3rd party heat sink that will definitely fit this non reference card? We all know that manufactures such has Artic, Thermalright and Prolimatech make such heat sinks, but of course they are for reference cards. I'm sure you can understand that I don't want to make any expensive mistakes!
    Thanks,
    Krutish.

    Thanks for the reply flobelix.
    My main concern was the amount of decibels this card produced when pushed, not its thermal properties. Under high stress the card would peak at 80-85c with a fan speed of anywhere around 80-100%. Normal gaming temps would be around 65c-75c depending on game, or gaming environment, with matching fan speeds. That is why I was looking for a replacement, the temps  were within the manufactures tolerances, even if a little high, but the db's were well outside of  mine!
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    Anyway, I removed the mess and used TIM-clean to dissolve what was left and finished the clean up with isopropanol. I applied a small amount of compound, replaced the heat-sink and Bobs your uncle! Max loads so far, GPU 64c – Fan speed 55%... That I can live with!
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    Made In China. (Sad Face)
    Krutish
    Oh almost forgot... i heard off Artic, they recommend the Twin Turbo II, Xtreme II or the Xtreme III for this card!

  • Dancing pixels, new heat sink, then no video at all

    I have an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro video card with a 23" Cinema Display and a 15" Cinema display running from a Geffen ADC/VGA adapter. I'm have a dual 500MGHz G4 running OS 10.4. It started off as the dancing pixels on the screen. A few green spots here and there, then it got worse. Then there were green and red bands up and down my monitors. I opened up the case and saw that the fan on the heat sink had broken off. I bought an aftermarket fan and heat sink and installed it with no problems. When I booted up the computer there was an ATI icon on the main display where the apple logo usually is. There was also a part of the logo that was blinking red. Maybe it meant that the power supply was inadequate but I don't know. Then the computer froze on that logo. I tried to reboot a couple more times but then the computer just wouldn't boot at all. Anyone else have this problem?
    AL

    It's OK- happens to the best!
    Unfortunately, the continuing screen artifacts could be caused by heat damage to the GPU done while the old fan was down. Heat damage to the chip is usually irreversible.
    As for the second monitor, it also could be a victim of heat damage to the card. Does the monitor show when you "detect monitors", either in System Preferences/Displays, or the ATI Control panel?
    And, you have verified that all your connections are secure?

  • Dancing pixels, new heat sink, then no video

    I have an ATI Radeon 9800 Pro video card with a 23" Cinema Display and a 15" Cinema display running from a Geffen ADC/VGA adapter. I'm have a dual 500MGHz G4 running OS 10.4. It started off as the dancing pixels on the screen. A few green spots here and there, then it got worse. Then there were green and red bands up and down my monitors. I opened up the case and saw that the fan on the heat sink had broken off. I bought an aftermarket fan and heat sink and installed it with no problems. When I booted up the computer there was an ATI icon on the main display where the apple logo usually is. There was also a part of the logo that was blinking red. Maybe it meant that the power supply was inadequate but I don't know. Then the computer froze on that logo. I tried to reboot a couple more times but then the computer just wouldn't boot at all. Anyone else have this problem?
    AL

    The red logo means you didn't connect the auxiliary power cable to the graphics board.

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