Wind Box DC100 change fan/heat sink

Hi,
I just bought the MSI Wind Box DC100 with the AMD E-450 APU, which is nice and all. But the fan on this thing is so insanely noisy, I have had a look inside (I know, warranty voided and all that) and everything looks very proprietary. I am looking to replace the fan, or the whole heat sink including fan if possible. Does anyone know of any solution to that? I have not found any standard coolers that has the same form factor as the one used in DC100.

I completely agree with the first post; the fan in the Wind Box DC100 is insanely noisy.
I bought this tiny PC for using as a mediacenter, but the fan is always running and has a high pitch that it's impossible to ignore.
Even though I've been buying MSI motherboards and PCs for years, this is surely a serious design flaw; it's a real pity, because the DC100 is a nice computer in all other aspects. I solved my problem by removing the original fan and "fitting" a huge external fan (9 cm in diameter) on the left side. It was a LONG work, because I had to cut the internal steel chassis, then the external plastic chassis, find the correct pinout and solder the small original custom connector to the new fan, remove the old fan and adapt a heatsink to take its place, route the cable and so on..
Several hours of work, but the result is completely satisfactory; the new fan is impossible to hear at maximum speed when you are 10 cm away; it's almost like having a fanless PC.
I used an Arctic F9 Pro PWM, which is 12 Volt, while the computer outputs 5 volt in that socket; it's not a problem, because in this way the fan goes at half the nominal speed (2000 rpm @ 12 volt ==> about 1000 rpm @ 5 volt), which is more than enough to keep the CPU about 10° C below the typical temperature I experienced using the old fan, while being completely silent.
At startup the DC100 outputs a message that the fan is not working (it stays for 3 seconds, then the system continues booting without a problem); that's probably because the rpm it gets from the PWM signal is way lower than that of the original fan; the rpm value returned is correct indeed, and I can monitor it in Windows.
This is the colour scheme I used to solder the old connector to the new fan:
Original fan Arctic F9 Pro PWM
Black GND Black
Yellow +5 Red
Green Sign Yellow
Blue PWM Blue
The new fan is really good; it's isolated from the computer where it is attached by using 4 rubber ties which don't propagate vibrations to the chassis. I bought it for 4,38 Euro, which would be a real bargain, if only slightly less work to fit it to the PC were needed.

Similar Messages

Static/crackling freezes/shuts down Toshiba L300 (already cleaned fan/heat sink)

Was slightly intermittent but pretty much unable to use the computer at this point. The only clues I can give is that there seemed to be 2 errors about usb so wondering if that could cause the static build up that freezes the computer? One was on shut down and the other was after static started and it seemed to be trying to grab a driver (for usb I think) almost as though the device disappeared but then the laptop froze. It wasn't too long ago one of three ports wasn't working but they all work recently (don't recall which one quit for a bit).
Unfortunately I need to fix it myself due to finances. How do I physically disconnect all the usb ports to rule them out? I probably did this when I took out the motherboard to clean the fan/heat sink but I don't know for sure which connection(s) they were.
If I'm way off please provide other suggestions. I REALLY appreciate any help given.

first off, please provide the entire model number of your computer. It is printed on the bottom. do not provide s/n.
Do you have a backup of all your personal data? If not, I would say that should be your priority at this point.
After that has been dealt with, the next question is "did you make restore disks when computer was still working?"
Can you get into recovery menu (spamming f8 on start up). If so, try going into safe mode and restoring the computer to a restore point at a point in time before the problems started.
When you cleaned fan/heat sink, did you reseat the heatsink. If not, you may want to open it back up and reseat the heatsink (i.e., remove old thermal paste and reapply).
L305-S5955, T9300 Intel Core 2 Duo, 4GB RAM, 60GB SSD, Win 7 Ultimate 64-bit

MSI Wind Box DC100 Hibernate Problem!!

Hi there.
i have a problem whit my MSI Wind Box DC100.
its brandnew btw.
i just install Windows 7 on it and got all the msi driver install to then i startet duing windows update and all was fine
and the computer was ready just wating for me to type my login on the welcome screen. so i toke a bath
and came back and the screen was black but the box still running like hibernate but i wont come online again what do i do ?.
Btw sry for my bad english iam danish and not good at typing Eng
-Carsten

okey, thanks. anyway the fps jumps between 40-100 is there anything i can install on the computer or that i can do to make this go away?
I've tried everything when it comes to the game settings. so i guess its just simply the little cpu that does it?
you should think counter-strike 1.6 didnt take much to drive on a computer!

Help with ICH and IOH heat sink change

Dear friends,
I apologize for my lack of knowledge, I am a new builder. I own a Mobo eclipse sli. I received it with out a pin which holds the IOH heat sink, that is joined with heat pipes with the ICH (I think). Also, I have read the last post regarding the temperature increase in the ICH and IOH due in part for the poor thermal solution in this MOBO.
I have to say that I resolved the first part of the problem, this is getting some push pins better than the original. However, taking into account the different posts, I had thought in changing the original thermal solution for a better one. Therefore, I got a thermal solution from thermalright for the chipset.
My question is: the thermal solution I got is apparently only for the IOH, if I remove the original heatsink from the IOH, I have to remove also the heatpipes ? and What happens with the heatsink from the ICH, it stay alone without the heatpipes? It is dangerous for the ICH?
The thermal solution I got is the HR-05 SLI/IFX
http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_page/product_page/chipset/hr05_sli_ifx/product_chitset_cooler_hr05_sli_ifx.htm?art=MTQyMywxLCxoZW50aHVzaWFzdA==
I am confused about that.
Please help me,
Santiago

Thanks four your replies.
So, In conclution I have to buy another one chipset cooler? It is ok? In that case I am going to change first the thermal paste of the stock heat sinks. If it doesn´t work I will change by the two chipset Thermalright solution. It it works I think I will test my computer some time before changing the complete chipset thermal solution.
For my cpu I bought the solution offered by gelid solutions,
http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=12&id=32
I have two case fans in adition.
I hope everything will be ok. I am just waiting for my Corsair dominator 6GB, I live in Ecuador so I had to wait some time until the components come from the US.
Thanks
Santiago

Best fan for this heat sink?

best fan for this heat sink?
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProductDesc.asp?description=35-109-118&depa=0
ty in advanced

Snakexor,
Hard to tell.
It really depends on your tolerance to noise and/or your goals - OC, pimped out rig, etc.
I usually prefer something on the silent side. SilenX were good for me, pretty quiet. I have XP90 though, XP-120 doesn't fit neo2.
Check out these guys:
http://heatsinkfactory.com/cgi-bin/HFAstore.pl?user_action=detail&catalogno=HS-004
They usually know what they are talking about. There are 3 fans suggested with XP-120 there.
Hope this helps.....

Replace heat sink or fan (or both)?

Would replacing the heat sink or fan (or both) help to to reduce the temperature of a really warm powerbook or is it hopeless?

never seen "temperature guidelines" in any sources - either Apple service manuals ot otherwise.
"official position" is that laptop is supposed to run hot sometimes.
as a guess, replacing fan/heatsink is probably not worthwhile, especially since hot temps could be caused by different components, such as hard drive, RAM, AirPort card etc.

I need a heat sink/fan for p7-1254

my desktop is getting really loud and i need to replace the fan and possibly also the heat sink, but i dont know what to search for. Can you help me?!
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Here it is on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-P7-Desktop-CPU-Cooling-Fan-Heatsink-644724-001-/360760738117?pt=LH_Defaul...
Part No. 644724-001
HP is out of stock at partsurfer
If this is "the Answer" please click "Accept as Solution" to help others find it.

WIND BOX DE500 fan error

here whe have around a 15 WIND BOX DE500
somtimes se give the Warning!! System FAN is not found or abnormal !!
Press F1 to Resume
what can we do so solf the problem

Sorry for the delay...
I looked inside:
Yes, it spins and is not loose or anything...
I don't know if it is the correct one?
The message does not appear every day. That is the strange thing about it.

Cleaning heat sink on Macbook Pro Retina after liquid spill... HELP!

Hello all...
My wonderful boyfriend spilled about 3-4 tablespoons of orange juice on my Macbook Pro Retina (15in) on Thursday. Right over the left speaker and onto the ESC, ~, brightness up and down, 1, 2, 3, TAB, Q, W, Caps Lock, and A key. It also dripped down and got into the vent. I immediately (like within 1 second) grabbed it and turned it upside down, and wiped it up while holding it upside down. I then turned it off and held it upside down for some time, and let it sit open and off after that. I turned it back on the next day and had no apparent issues. (However today some of the keys have been "crunchy", so I think I better clean them...)
I couldn't get it to the Apple store until yesterday because of Hurricane Sandy and not having power or anything. I had the genius check it out. He could only take off the back without having to charge me anything and he said that none of the liquid sensors were tripped in the back of the computer but that there was some dried up orange juice in the heat sink (but apparently not really anywhere else which he said makes me the luckiest person in the world). He took a photo on his phone and showed me... just some residue and orange juice that looked "dried up" in like 5 or 6 of the vents. He said that I could try to clean it myslf with alchohol wipes and a toothpick at my own risk. But I am very nervous as I am not exactly tech savvy... I watched videos on how to take the back off, but the part about disconnecting the battery and all gets me nervous. My question is, do I have to disconnect the battery to just gently clean up the heat sink with a little toothpick and alchohol wipes? Do I have to ground myself? What do I do?
Also, how necessary do you think it is to even clean it up? Could the heat sink need to be replaced in the future from this? Is it really a big deal? I'm looking for honest answers, since I felt like the genuis guy had too much liabality to say anything to me about anything.
Unrelated, what are the chances that liquid got through the keyboard to anything more sensitive to liquid? The genius couldnt really give me an answer. I have noticed just as I am typing now that sometimes it seems that the cursor of where I am typing will just jump back to the end of the previous line when I hit the Caps Lock key... it's very strange and I'm getting agita just thinking about it. Could that be a problem with just my keys getting stuck somewhere or a bigger problem with hardware being damaged... help and THANK YOU!

When i start any game the CPU goes up to 90° in 2 minutes and the computer shutdown after at least 5 min.
I found a solution. after a lot of research i checked that my fans are working on the minimum means at 2000 rpm even when the games are on. so i install it a software called smcFancontrol that u can control ur fan speed and i make it up to 4000 pm (you can do it with iStat menu too) and i tested my computer. I Have been playing on my macbook pro since this morning and there is no problem of overheat or shutdown.
Is it normal that we need to change the fan configuration or control to play a game that was working fine before.?
for cooling my machine i have a mStand Rain design http://www.raindesigninc.com/pic_high%20res/mstand_macbookpro_keyboard_perspecti ve_unibody.jpg

Question about the heat sinks in these models

Hey all,
Can anyone tell me about the heat sinks used in these model laptops?
Here are my questions:
Are they made from pure copper?
What is inside the tubes that run between the processor covers and the fan? Is it just air? or something else?
Is the thermal paste that sticks to the processors toxic?
I'm not sure this is the right place to ask but thought i might as well try.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

you mean the entire T series range, or are you after information on a specific T model?
1) most of the parts are made of pure copper
2) there is a working fluid within heat pipe, which should either ethanol or acetone. The phase change from liquid to gaseous phase is what transports the heat away from CPU/GPU/motherboard chipsets.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_pipe
3) thermal paste usually contains silicon and silver, it is not to be ingested as such.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermal_grease
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

How to disable or change fan check RPM settings at boot?

Hello all...
My system specs:
HP p6180t
Prod#: AV129AV#ABA
Q9550 Processor
8 GB RAM
IPIEL-LA3 Motherboard
Upgraded:
Corsair HX650W Power Supply
Asus GeForce GTX560
My original processor cooling fan stopped working recently and I chose to replace with a better heatsink while I was at it. I used a Cooler Master Gemini II M4 because it was the only increased capacity cooler that would fit in my current case.
After install, I got the "Error: CPU fan has failed, computer will now shut down to prevent damage to CPU. Etc..."
My guess is the motherboard doesn't like the new fan that came with the new heat sink. The fan is larger and I'm sure spins at a lower RPM than the stock fan. I checked my BIOS settings and do NOT have the "Hardware Monitor" section under the "Advanced" tab. My BIOS is at a newer level than what the HP site will provide for updates (mine is:
BIOS Version/Date American Megatrends Inc. 5.09, 8/19/2009).
Is there another way to change the RPM fan speed settings to avoid the error at boot other than in the BIOS?
I am able to boot the computer by using a similar sized 4-pin fan plugged into the motherboard while the proper sized fan (actually mounted to the heatsink) is unplugged. Even with no fan, the new heatsink is keeping the processor at 45 C or lower across all 4 cores under medium load.
I suppose I could always leave this small fan plugged in to the motherboard for the BIOS to be happy and power the CPU fan off of molex power (along with an additional case fan). This would be a last option as I would rather know if my CPU fan isn't working...
Any and all help is very appreciated, thank you!
John
This question was solved.
View Solution.

I understand that your new fan is not detected as working properly by BIOS. The BIOS doesn't provide all that many options to control functions such as fan speed and there isn't a way to access this feature to the best of my knowledge. I am afraid that the workaround you mentioned might be your only option with the existing fan without access to this setting in BIOS.
You mentioned you connected a similar sized fan to bypass the error. Does the fan have a higher RPM than the fan sitting on top of the heat sink? Reviewing the images located here, it looks like the fan is detachable and could be replaced with the fan that works with the BIOS. This is provided that the fan that gets past BIOS will fit the heat sink.
↙-----------How do I give Kudos?| How do I mark a post as Solved? ----------------↓

How Should My Heat Sink Gel Look?

Hey all,
Is this enough heat sink gel for my fan fixture to board connection?
I was having problems with overheating while gaming, so I took my fan fixture out and cleaned it out real well. Doing this required me to pull it away from the board, and I'm not sure if I should have cleaned the heat sink gel off and re-applied some new.
Here are some photos of how the physical connection looks. I simply put it back and place, and here I am typing to you now:
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2241.JPG
http://rosshardy.com/files/images/IMG_2240.JPG
Thanks!
Ross
P.S., my warrenty already expired (I'm aware that I would have voided it).

lead_org's idea of useing a credit-card or similar tool to spread the compound is a good idea.
My idea of iceing on a cake was a bit vague I suppose. The point was an even thin layer, liberally applied to fill the neccesary imperfections, yet thin enough to not be wasteful.
This excerpt from the Wikipedia artical on "Thermal Grease" may enlighten things a bit for all in question. There's more for those technically interested on the Wikipedia web site; referrenced via the link above, but I think the notes below should suffice enough info for the average person.
Purpose
Thermal grease is primarily used in the electronics and computer industries to assist a heatsink to draw heat away from a semiconductor component such as an integrated circuit or transistor.
Thermally conductive paste improves the efficiency of a heatsink by filling air gaps that occur when the irregular surface of a heat generating component is pressed against the irregular surface of a heatsink, air being approximately 8000 times less efficient at conducting heat (see Thermal conductivity) than, for example, aluminium, a common heatsink material.[2] Surface imperfections inherently arise from limitations in manufacturing technology and range in size from visible and tactile flaws such as machining marks or casting irregularities to sub-microscopic ones not visible to the naked eye.
As such, both the thermal conductivity and the "conformability" (i.e., the ability of the material to conform to irregular surfaces) are the important characteristics of thermal grease.
Both high power handling transistors, like those in a conventional audio amplifier, and high speed integrated circuits, such as the central processing unit (CPU) of a personal computer, generate sufficient heat to require the use of thermal grease in addition to the heatsink. High temperatures cause semiconductors to change their switching properties to the point of failure while CPU power dissipation overheating causes logic errors as heat raises electrical resistance on the multi-nanometer wide circuits of the CPU core.[3]
Applying and removing
Computer processor heatsinks utilize a variety of designs to promote better thermal transfer between components. Flat and smooth surfaces may use a small line method to apply material, and exposed heat-pipe surfaces will be best prepared with multiple lines.[4]
Because thermal grease's thermal conductivity is poorer than the metals they couple, it is important to use no more than is necessary to exclude air gaps. Excess grease separating the metal surfaces further will only degrade conductivity, increasing the chances of overheating. It should also be noted that silver-based thermal grease can also be slightly electrically conductive. If excess were to flow onto the circuits, it could cause a short circuit.
The preferred way to remove typical silicone oil-based thermal grease from a component or heat sink is by using isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). If none is available, pure acetone is also a valid method of removal. There are also purpose made cleaners for removing and purifying the surfaces of the contacts.
HTH.....
Regards,
Visible_Spirit

MSI R6950 Twin Frozr III Power Edition – Replacement Heat Sink?

Hello,
Does anyone know of a good 3rd party heat sink that will definitely fit this non reference card? We all know that manufactures such has Artic, Thermalright and Prolimatech make such heat sinks, but of course they are for reference cards. I'm sure you can understand that I don't want to make any expensive mistakes!
Thanks,
Krutish.

Thanks for the reply flobelix.
My main concern was the amount of decibels this card produced when pushed, not its thermal properties. Under high stress the card would peak at 80-85c with a fan speed of anywhere around 80-100%. Normal gaming temps would be around 65c-75c depending on game, or gaming environment, with matching fan speeds. That is why I was looking for a replacement, the temps were within the manufactures tolerances, even if a little high, but the db's were well outside of mine!
However, the situation as changed somewhat. While messing around inside the case trying to improve airflow I accidentally touched the heat-sink assembly, and upon doing so the fan instantly roared to 100% and the temps started to shoot up. I wiggled the assembly again and the fan and temps dropped back! So it seemed like the heat-sink was lose! I removed the card and tightened the screws a little, this solved the problem in regards to the temp/fan shooting up, but the temps were still high!
The next step was to completely remove the heat-sink, give it a good clean and replace the thermal compound in the hope that this would solve the noise/heat problem. It was at this point that I spotted the problem! The GPU was absolutely caked in thermal compound, so much so that all of the resistors around the GPU were also covered in thermal grease, (Don't these guys know less is better?) good job they hadn't used a metal based thermal compound, that could have wrecked the card!
Anyway, I removed the mess and used TIM-clean to dissolve what was left and finished the clean up with isopropanol. I applied a small amount of compound, replaced the heat-sink and Bobs your uncle! Max loads so far, GPU 64c – Fan speed 55%... That I can live with!
So there you have it, this card as been noisy and running hot from the day I brought it, but I didn’t know any better, I've never seen or heard a MSI R6950 in action before, now I have!
Made In China. (Sad Face)
Krutish
Oh almost forgot... i heard off Artic, they recommend the Twin Turbo II, Xtreme II or the Xtreme III for this card!

How to make 260 gtx 55nm VRM custom heat sink

Warning: This will void your warranty
The caveat above added by Mike, Forum Administrator
How to Create a Custom 260 GTX 55nm VRM Heat Sink
Introduction: This guide was created to show how you can make a custom VRM heat sink from the stock heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooler.
Reason: Many aftermarket companies, such as Thermalright and Arctic, fail to provide a good VRM heat sink for the 55nm 200 series GTX’s. The solution often involves poorly sticking thermal tape or no solution at all, such as the Arctic cooler, which states it’s ok to leave the 260 GTX 55nm VRM chips uncovered. To leave the VRM chipset uncovered maybe ok for stock clocked cards but what about an over clocked card or an enthusiast trying to push the performance envelope? That is after all, what these aftermarket cooling solutions are all about; especially the Arctic cooler which can cool up to 250 watts! Fortunately the solution is very easy and should take you no more than 10 to 15 minutes to address.
Use: To create a custom made VRM heat sink to be used with an aftermarket cooling solution such as the Arctic cooler and Thermalright cooler.
Tools:
Dremel, with metal cutting wheel and sanding wheel.
Thermal Pads, which you can buy in sheets from any performance pc store and should be 1.0 mm in thickness.
Philips Screw Driver, very small size would be ideal.
Before we begin I’d like to remind you that removing or tampering with the stock heat sink will more than likely void your warranty. This guide was also constructed assuming an aftermarket cooler will be installed. The card used in this guide is a MSI 260 GTX 55nm with reference PCB design (REV 1) but will also work with other 200 series GTX cards. When working on any electronic device, always make sure you are well grounded!!!
Step 1: Remove the screws with the springs only from the back side of the graphics card as shown in figure 1A. There is a total of 13 spring screws that need to be removed. Check to make sure that your card does not have two small additional securing screws which are located on the exhaust side of your graphics card with your DVI ports. If your card does contain these additional screws, remove them before continuing on to step 2.
Step 2: Gently work the card from the heat sink. NOTE: Do NOT force or pry heavily, you will damage your card. It may take a little caressing depending on how much poor quality thermal putty was used from the manufacturer.
Step 3: Remove the fan power connector from the fan power port as shown in figure 2A.
Step 4: Remove and discard all the old thermal pads. You should never re-use thermal pads and especially not the low quality manufacturer ones! NOTE: keep in mind the location of the VRM thermal pads since you will be making replacements.
Step 5: Clean off the voltage regulator chips with a tissue or with a soft eraser as instructed by Arctic. Personally I use a tissue very lightly dipped in alcohol to clean the surface of the chips. The voltage regulator chips for the 260 GTX 55nm are shown in figure 3A. NOTE: I will not be covering the cleaning of the GPU or Ram since it does not pertain to the VRM heat sink.
Step 6: Flip the heat sink so you are looking at the bottom where the thermal pads were attached. There are 6 very little screws which need to be removed from the assembly. Figure 4A shows the location of the screws attaching the plastic shroud assembly. Once they are removed gently pry the plastic shroud off and set it aside.
Step 7: Now turn the heat sink over and remove the 4 black screws from the top side of the heat sink. The fan should come off freely and set that aside as well. Your heat sink should look like figure 5A.
Step 8: Now we are ready to begin cutting the stock heat sink. With a sharpie draw a black as shown in figure 6A. This will give you a marker to follow when cutting.
Step 9: Attach the metal cutting wheel to the dremel and begin cutting across the black line. Danger: ALWAYS wear eye protection when cutting a metal object or any object. The metal is very soft and not much force is needed to cut it. Try not to damage the mounting holes when cutting (figure 6A). You may need to lightly sand the cut edge depending on how rough or jagged it is after cutting. When you’re done you should have a piece as shown in figure 7A. This will be your VRM heat sink. Important: MAKE SURE you clean the heat sink well and remove all metal particles. Also allow the heat sink to dry well before installing!!
Step 10: Next cut the new thermal pads to the shape of your VRM chips. It should look like figure 8A when you are finished.
Step 11: Gently place the heat sink into place and attach the screws. When you are done it should look like figure 9A.
Congratulations on your custom made VRM heat sink. The great thing is that it never has the risk of falling off, such as thermal taped ones, and can be removed and installed as many times as you wish. It also does not contain thermal adhesives which also do not facilitate removal as well. The stock spring screws will also insure secure contact between the VRM chips and the sink. The custom heat sink comes with nicely built in fins and much better cooling performance then individual dinky VRM heat sinks provided from the Arctic or Thermalright coolers.
p.s. It is possible to put old heat sink back on the card since each section has its own mounting screws but I would not recommend this unless absolutely necessary.

I'm running a corsair 750 watt PSU
Q660
Gigabyte g31 motherboard
1TB WD Hard drive
OCZ 1066mhz of ram
And I recently swapped the lighting with a gtx 260 and see what would happen in the same system. The GTX260 ran games smoothly, and would run furmark fine with the newest nvidia drivers. Swap back the gtx 275 lightning, and games are really slow and choppy especially when you add any kind of AA. The FPS is literally cut in half when I switched to the msi gtx 275. I think it's safe to say that the GTX275 is defective.

Will Exterior Heat Sinks Help My Burning Lap(top)?

Hi,
I have a mid-2012 13" MPB with a 2.9 GHz Intel Core i7 that I use out in the field and on set for video edits, Lightroom exporting, and other slightly heavy-duty processing (like 300% CPU usage). The problem is that the computer gets really hot (temp readings over 200F) and it's uncomfortable to be around, especially if using it in my lap.
Questions:
Would gluing head sinks to the exterior bottom case help get rid of the heat faster?
Would more cooling change performance for the better when its under load?
Is there a chance of it messing with the electronics inside or warping the case?
What if I sit the computer on a bag of ice while it's doing its heaviest processing? Would that be a bad idea or a good idea?
Thanks for the input.
RS

TommyBadger wrote:
Would gluing head sinks to the exterior bottom case help get rid of the heat faster?
Glue would act like an insulator. Resting the MBP on a thick aluminum plate in direct contact would act as a heat sink and help dissipate the heat.
Is there a chance of it messing with the electronics inside or warping the case?
Not likely.
What if I sit the computer on a bag of ice while it's doing its heaviest processing? Would that be a bad idea or a good idea?
Bad idea. Water and MBPs are enemies. Dry ice might work but in a humid environment, but it might create frost which the MBP would not favor.
Try a cooling pad or a large passive heat sink.
Ciao.

Wind Box DC100 change fan/heat sink

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for