Dropping in a shot

Hi,
I've searched the manual pages (honest!) and couldn't find this feature:
After laying a timeline off to tape, I often find I need to go back, adjust a shot and drop it in to the tape at the right place. So, how do I edit just that shot to tape without typing in it's start timecode to the 'Edit To Tape' window and thus leaving me vulnerable to typing errors?
Cheers for any help!

Scouse... firstly, take a chill-pill... secondly... That quote you used didn't appear in the public-forum because I edited it out as soon as i'd posted it, as I thought it was unnecessarily provocative... which obviously it was.
"...and James, you really missed a chance to mock me on my last one, big fella!! "
I don't want to burst your bubble, but I don't sit at my computer with an RSS feed linked to your posts and wait for an opportunity to mock you. I don't know you... I have no interest in knowing you... and I certainly have no interest in mocking you.
"So, can I run all my future posts past you first to check they're good enough?"
If you want. You can stick your question in a private message to me, I'll proof read it and edit it to make sure it's up to the high standards expected on this forum, then message it back to you with a little smiley face. You can then post it, knowing that you won't sound too stupid.
Anyway... sorry you were so deeply affected by my comment, it wasn't actually aimed at you alone, which is ironic as you were the only person to read it, in your email-update. I think that you might want to develop a "thicker skin" because, believe me, if you get SO rubbed up by my comment, just wait until you get flamed and trolled with real vitriol! That's public forums for you.
(Just for you, to show how helpful I can be.)
'Trolled' / 'Troll' definition: "An Internet troll, or simply troll in Internet slang, is someone who posts controversial and usually irrelevant or off-topic messages in an online community, such as an online discussion forum, with the intention of baiting other users into an emotional response."

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Color correction, muzzle flares and smoke questions

A couple of days ago I directed an action sequence called 'Silent takedown' using Premiere CS5 and After Effects. The goal was to do a very fast paced editing style but still within the realm of 'classic' action films from '90 like Face/Off and Mission Impossible 2. I've got some question regarding visual effects done in After effects. Tell me if you thought they were good or bad. Also the color correction was done in AE and PP. Does the overall movie look good?
Here's a full link again: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O62_hYOmlaY
Thanks for watchin'

Well, aside from it being quite disturbing to have a team of 14 year olds turning everyone to blood soup it's got some great camera work.
Your first mistake might have been thinking there's anything worth copying in mission impossible 2. Sorry, had to be said.
Todd's right. The clouds of blood is comical. Maybe tone that down? Right now it just looks like a string of video copilot tutorials one after another. You need to hide effects, and make them feel seamless.
Ask yourselves what are you trying to showcase. If it's post production, you have to tweak those effects and make them look classy. There are shots where bullet holes are appearing in glass and there's little breakage, and no reaction from the actors. You can't just glue in effects. If the actors don't react, you can't use the shot, or it should be changed so you don't notice. Add a shake etc.
If it's editing, then that has to be solid too.
You've got time shifting all over the place without it being stylistic. For example, the guys who walk up off the top are shown in a wide shot that you re-use for the security cam. They enter, put their masks on, walks softly up to the guards and take them out, but then we are inside and the scarface guy is watching action that happened minutes ago on the monitor. If you're going to jump around in time, you need to find a stylistic way to do that. Why not bring the scarface guy's scenes into the lead up, show the monitor, (drop that long shot at the top) to introduce the guys sneaking up. This introduced tension (will scarface notice???) gives you an idea of who the guards are watching out for and drops that opening super wide of the two kids going up against the wall. That shot doesn't work because when you show them super-wide, you get a feeling for how exposed they are and what a terrible job they're doing of "sneaking" up. But it works as security cam footage...
Another example is when you have one of your agents say "good morning gentlemen. He says something strange to men who are in masks and they give him enough time to put a gun to his head and pull the trigger in spite of the face that they're holding their own guns. Then you have the camera exposure flash cuts to the other agent sneaking up...
If you want to make this effect work, you need to use editing to explain why the second guard didn't reflexively shoot the first agent. have the agent say, "good morning gentleman" and start the action of raising the gun. Then flash cut to the other agent sneaking up, then back the the first agent shooting, then back to the second guard being shot. Then all of a sudden you have a frenetic action scene. Right now the pacing feels slow and unrealistic.
The effects go off the rails a bit at the end. The muzzle flashes don't aim in the right direction, and the particle smoke becomes very obviously added in post. One shot in particular is a dude walking through a black smoke cloud from behind a van. Loose that smoke in the second to jump cuts. And if oyu're going to have a smoky enclosed space. you have to add atmosphere in other shots.
If you're not going to use practical effects for the gunshots, you need to cut away. Having a guy explode with particles and stock footage will always be "funny" without having some squibs on set. I know it makes it harder and more complicated, but you have to have the whole package, or it'll always just look like kids messing around and...
... oop, my render is done.

A syntax of search is in final cut server

Is it possible as that in a search to set one more parameter? For example in the field of Status to choose not equals: done and fail ?

Yep. Just drag from the effects browser and drop onto your shot in your timeline. (type in "handheld" in your search bar in the effects browser and it'll pop right up.)

FIX SLIDE SHOW FREEZE (auto play / loop) IWEB 09

IWEB 09
I Dropped a still shot slide show quicktime video onto my home pg. I used inspector to remove the play menue bar tab and then selected the video to AUTO PLAY and LOOP
When you go to the site everything is fine until your mouse curser crosses over the video and you simultaneously scroll down... it freezes the video and unless your smart enough to double click on the video to start play again it will just freez up.
Why is this happeneing? how do we avoid this? the whole purpose to dropping a video on your pg and having it run in auto play and loop is to be hands free and allow playback while you navigate... it shouldn't freeze up like that
anyone ever have this issue? know how to fix it?
Would very much appreciate your help
go to www.flatironfinishes.com you will see what I am talking about
Thank you!!

yeah you bring up a good point, I think as I was reading tutorial on how to upload audio and auto play/loop it I added it to the pg. and then took the company logo and pasted over that audio box...... later I wtched tutarial on uploading a quicktimes video and auto playing / looping
Yeah I am not to savy on codes and website building.... but can go back into IMOVIE and add in the audio to the movie file and have only one file...
Thank you for pointing that out.
now the html snippet is not recognizig the folder and file in my FTP files?? so the quicktime icon is showing.
So lets say I combine the audio and the video and then drag n drop it into the home pg. as originally done...
If it continues to freeze when you move the cursure over the video and scroll down..... what would I do?
moving the curser over the video does nothing its the combonation of scroilling down and having the curser over the video that it freezes up??
appreciate you guys walking e through this
S
I am getting closer... I think?

How to edit my video in portrait mode?

Hey! I'm editing some video that a friend of mine took, and he of course held the phone in portrait mode
So now I'm editing it in portrait mode, mixed with some other landscape shots. But that's not so much the issue. I need help with scaling the portrait shots correctly, as now the overview window cuts the video in half while the preview window shows it just fine.
Picture:
So how do I scale the overview window to whats shown in the preview window?
Thanks for all your help!

I suspect that the issue is that the overview window is showing the *sequence* settings while the preview window is showing the clip settings (which is "side-ways").
I just did a test with a vertical clip. When I dragged it into an exisiting sequence I got the same result you did. Premiere did *not* ask if I wanted to confrom the sequence to the clip. It did not actually "scale" the clip but it did show the same thing you have where only part of the clip is visible.
When I dragged the clip to the "make new sequence from clip" icon. I got a properly sized sequence and preview window.
Of course that's not going to help you much if you're combining portrait and landscape footage.
I would start by dropping a piece of landscape video in a sequene and conform the sequence so you know it's right for that footage. Then drop a portrait shot in (doesn't matter which one) and go to "Effects Controls" amd Motion. Scale the clip down so it fits the window and make a note of the percentage. Now you've got the formula for all future portrait clips.
To get the bounding box change the "Fit" option to a percentage in the overview window.
Hope this helps

Date sorting enigma

Within library, I view photos as film rolls and these sort by date.
Also, I like to keep each roll as its own 'event' rather than just different import dates. By this I mean, if within a bunch of photographs I have two events lets say, such as birthday party and a wedding, I will import these independently such that 2 film rolls will show, and I can then label each independtly.
This worked fine when I could mount the camera drive onto the desktop and then select manually the photos to import. However, now that I have a Canon the mounting is no longer possible. Consequently, I have to import all photographs first, select the ones that I wish to keep seperated, drag them bag to the desktop (and delete the ones in iPhoto) then reimport them again. This then creates the new film roll as desired.
The problem I have today however, is that the 2nd import shows above the the 1st import eventhough the date is 'older'. ie each photo of the 2nd import were taken after the ones from the 1st but as a film roll it appears above. Any thoughts??
Many thanks,
Leo

Leo
Two solutions:
1. You can still create a new roll, and you don't have to go through all those hoops. Simply, in Library View, select a single pic from - say - the Wedding shots, and go File -> Create Film Roll. You can then drag and drop the remaining shots from the Birthday Roll to the Wedding Roll. Note though, that the Create Film Roll command is only available in the Library (not, in albums, or rolls) and you must have at least a single pic selected.
You can edit the title and dates of a Film Roll using the info panel (bottom left hand corner, the wee 'i' button.
2. Finally, if you use Image Capture, you can select which files to upload to the desktop - into separate folders if you wish - and afterwards import them into iPhoto. You can use the Preferences in Image Capture to nominate it to open when you connect the camera rather than iPhoto. Image Capture is in your Applications folder.
Regards
TD

40% of images missing when shooting tethered

I'm testing LR3 as a possible alternative to C1, and I like what I see so far. However, there is one big problem.
We're shooting with a 5d Mk2, and used LR3. After waiting a while for a low-pressure shoot to test LR3 with, we got it running and tethered the camera. All was good at this point, but during the shoot there seemed to be less frames coming in than were shot.
At the end of the shoot the connection dropped, so we shot the last 30 frames to card. I decided to check the whole shoot by uploading all cards into a seperate folder from the tethered folder - turns out there were 230 more frames in the card folder than in the tether folder. And it's definietly frames - not sidecars or anything else that's giving me the discrepancy.
Has anyone else come across this? I'm making a call on LR3 vs C1v5, and right now LR3 is my choice bar this huge issue.
Any thoughts?

Thanks Sean - appreciate the words of wisdom. There's a pretty good chance I wasn't paying attention to the tether pop-up while shooting, so the cable may have come loose. That said, it must be happening a lot and in small sections, because it's a few frames every now and then that are missing.
Definietly gives me option #1 to troubleshoot.
Cheers,
Kev

How to sync music video with XDCAM footage

Anybody have a recommendation of how to shoot a music video in 24p on the Sony EX1, and make sure the on-set playback matches the original music track for editing in a XDCAM EX 1080/24p timeline?
Is it like the crystal sync playback with film, or the 60hz playback with 60i video? Something else maybe? Slow it down in post?

Get your audio source and sample rate convert to 48K naming the export appropriately.
load that into an FCP sequence set up for what you're shooting, start your sequence at 59:00:00 first hit of audio at 01:00:00:00
you may want to make a countdown eg snare drum cross stick etc for it in soundtrack pro. make sure the countdown matches the tempo of the piece. You'll need this if the piece starts with sync audio of the musicians playing.
put a slug and a timecode generator filter on it. you'll have to fool with the offset to get it to match your sequence time.
note the Time codes for each of your setups and place a marker at each setup then back up a few seconds and place a start marker for each setup.
Playback off the FCP sequence starting a few seconds early. shoot the screen with the TC numbers and without going out of record shoot the next setup. Playback audio from this sequence. Obviously a laptop is the way to go here
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turn tracks on and off to select what you want and cut the piece.

Shoot in HDV, Output to DVCAM

I am a newbie to the HDV format and have been outputting programs simply using the print to video command in final cut and a DVCAM deck. I have some HDV footage that may or may not need to be mixed in with DV NTSC footage and was wondering the best way to go about editing/outputting this footage for broadcast on DVCAM.
Would the quality really suffer if i simply edited all of the footage together on a DV NTSC timeline? I figured better that than editing on a timeline better suited for the hdv footage.
Also, one last thing, as far as planning ahead what is the best way to shoot HDV if you know that you will be outputting to DVCAM, I have heard that 1080i 60 is the best wayto go but wasn't sure.
Thanks in advance,
Tyle

Just finishing a project that I did exactly this. It was shot on HDV with a Sony camera. I captured HDV and did a downconvert in the deck to DVanamorphic, recapturing exactly the same clips. You might want to capture and keep the HDV material for use in a SD sequence. On occasion, we found a shot we wanted to blow up and reposition. I simply dropped the HDV shot in the SD timeline and scaled and repositioned. This material was indistinguishable from the SD 100% material. Very handy.

Capture Problems. 50 clips per tape.

Hi Everyone. I am in a bit of a jam. I have a dozen tapes to digitize. For some reason, FCP acts as if there were Time Codes breaks all over (although there is none). The result is my tape end up divided in 50 clips, which is really annoying because the director needs to derush and I need one clip per tape for that.
I am using: MacBook Pro 17 Unibody
4 Go Ram - 500 Go HD
Sony Z7 via forewire
Tried with HDV capture codec and Apple Pro Res 422 (when I switched to Appel Pro Res 422, it worked and I got one clip for an entire tape, but then it started splitting again for the next tape)
All your help & insights will be much appreciated.
Take care.

you can go into your user preferences and on the first page, stop the create new clip on timecode breaks,
or you can drop all 50 shots on a new timeline then export as a self contained QT movie, then import that back in as one clip (you could even export a copy with the TC reader burnt in)
or when you are capturing do capture now and have device control set to non controllable, but you will lose the camera tape timecode on this one

Audio slowly goes out of sync over time

My capture segments are only 10-15 minutes long. However, my audio drifts out of sync and is severe at approx. 3 minutes with no dropped frames.
Shot with SDX900 (DVCPRO50)
Capturing from AJ-SD93

hi
i have exactly the same problem...
Im in really trouble with a project. I am producing a fitness dvd and the soundtrack is eating up frames in common to my video, where i try to syncronize the sound from. Its totally strange for me and i have no solution and answer why this is happening.And worst of all: no solution. The customer which - of course - is not satisfied.
I have NO clue what to do. Can anyone help?
the footage is taken from Sony HVR-V1E in HDV and the soundtrack is taken from a dedicated made CD and converted to MP3 before putted into finalcut. If i convert it to aiff instead it gives me files around 1 frame shorter than the mp3 files. "Sync Audio Capture to Video Source if Present" is on as well, like "thedirtyduo"s has.
Im lost (too)
Best from Mark, Norway

IMovie08 plays my video, but any export will not - WHY?

Hi. My short (<10 min) video and audio plays fine in iMovie, but sharing it to Media Browser, or exporting it using any of the methods, then opening it in iDVD always results in a project with audio but no video.
If I go back to iMovie, the video is there, of course.
Why isn't the video exporting?
Thanks very much for any help you can offer.
David

It works for me.
I export, choose a file size - Medium or Large - and it exports ..to the 'Media Browser', in which case it plays perfectly in QuickTime Player (..we-e-ell, as long as I turn on "High Quality" playback within QuickTime!..) and it also exports to the web, e.g: here.
It's a different kind of editing program ..well, not really editing, but Assembling.
It's for quickly assembling a whole load of clips, slinging in some music and a few quick Dissolves and adding a Title or two.
For laying video over an audio track, or for dropping in 'cutaway' shots, or for adjusting audio levels through the movie, for mixing audio tracks, etc, continue to use iMovie HD 6.
So we now have two movie-editing programs: quick assembly in iMovie '08 (..or "iMovie 7.0" as "About iMovie" describes it..) and considered fine adjustments, Bookmarks, Chapter Markers, Slo-Mo and Reverse, plus many other F/X, transitions and titles in the still-extant iMovie HD 6 version.
Two tools, and the new one has cost about $15, when you consider it to be just one item within "iLife '08".
I think it's a bargain at $15 ..it's got the optical tweaking of the high-priced 'Aperture' ..now also available for tweaking photos' highlights and shadows within the new 'iPhoto'.. and it's got very fast 'scrubbing' (..or 'skimming' as it's now called in iMovie '08..) with easy selection of just the sequence(s) which you want to add to a project, it's got multiple (unlimited?) Undo, for fixing mistakes, it's extremely stable compared with many previous versions of the 'old' iMovie.
I find it very easy to get timing right just by 'skimming', and although I can't fiddle with the audio to the extent I used to in iMHD6, it provides very fast editing, colour, contrast and exposure adjustment (..no rendering!..) and - just to emphasise this - it is STABLE ..no more constant Saving, nor having to Quit and Restart.
So - it's different.
As Beverly and Karsten have said, maybe it should be called "iVideo" to distinguish it from the previous versions of "iMovie".
But simply use the tool that's appropriate for what you want to do ..saw, screwdriver, chisel: iMovie HD 6 or iMovie '08.
'06 for delicate fine tweaking of multi-layered audio effects, insert edits and video effects and transitions; iMovie '08 for quick'n'dirty effortless assembly, and fine tuning the look of the video, but without much audio tweaking.
Personally, I don't miss the hours:mins:seconds:frames timecode of iMHD6 ..I edit by 'heartbeat' anyway, so the new, reliable 'skimming' is nice and handy.
..And - so far - I haven't had any problems with Exporting/Sharing ..except that QuickTime seems to display iM'08 material, by default, in lo-quality, so in QuickTime you MUST use Apple+'J' (Show Movie Properties) and tick the little "High Quality" box at bottom-right for decent playback.

Stop Insertion Process

Whenever I drag a clip into my timeline, FCP has this irritating habit of splitting the track below it, and I cannot seem to stop it. All I want to do is drop in the shot into an empty spot--leaving the other tracks alone.
Is there a preference I can choose to stop this behavior? The only way around this is to drag the clip to a no-track zone and have it create a brand new track. Then I can move it accordingly, but I would rather not have to do this. Any help would be appreciated.

Ditto what Jim said. But to answer your question... When you drag your clip down, you will see a little arrow either pointing down or to the right. If it pointing down then you will be doing an overwrite edit(what you want). If its pointing to the right you will be doing an insert edit which will push everything down.
I believe the closer you get to the bottom of the track you want to drop your clip on the arrow should point down. If you're in the top 1/4 of the track on the timeline you will get the insert arrow.
But it really is much more efficient to learn those shortcuts. I, O, F9, F10, and F11 can be huge timesavers when used properly.

CRASH REPORT Product: Adobe Photoshop CC Application running on: Apple iMac 3.5GHz / Mavericks 10.9.2 Application crashes without warning. . Symptom: Drop down boxes go blank white (I shot screen captures of blank drop down boxes) and application

CRASH REPORT
Product: Adobe Photoshop CC
Application running on:
Apple iMac 3.5GHz late 2013 / Mavericks 10.9.2
Application crashes without warning. Symptom: Drop down boxes go blank white (I shot screen captures of blank drop down boxes) and application stops working, actions for appox. 10 minutes preceding crash are lost. Force Quit required to quit unresponsive / frozen application and then Restart of Adobe Photoshop CC
Crash Frequency: Three time in this work day, 5.6.14 Once a day sporadically (approximately 10 times) in past two weeks.
Other applications running at time of crashes: Adobe Bridge - NOT effected. Computer was on line with no browsers open.
Otherwise computer continued to operate normally.
I have been using Adobe Photoshop CC for approximately two months.

Thanks, Chris,
I hope that this is the solution.
re: "And a crash report without an actual crash report (a long, detailed text document available from the crash report dialog), is not all that useful" :
I did in deed submit a homemade crash report.
I would have submitted "an actual Crash Report " and sooner, but: When this event occurs. there are NO dialog boxes. All frozen / blank. No possibility of "actual crash report" !
Thank you!

I dropped in 2 photos as a side by side (a before and after shot) in Pages. I went to upload it on a website, but said: not an allowed file type. I converted it to a pdf, but that didn't work either. Is there a way to convertPages doc to a jpeg?

I dropped 2 photos side by side (before and after shot) in Pages.
When I went to upload the photos on a website, message said
"Not an allowed file type". I then converted the Pages document into a PDF,
but that didn't work either. Is there a way to convert it to a JPEG? I didn't see
that as an option on scroll bar.

Hi iris117,
Welcome to the Support Communities!
One thing you can do if you can't just upload the photos individually, is to take a screen shot of your Pages document. Here's how:
OS X Mavericks: Take pictures of the screen
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14212
Cheers,
- Judy

Dropping in a shot

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