DV2899EA Artist Edition Motherboard Failure

Hi,
I have a problem with my Laptop. When I have given in HP service centre , they said the chipset has failed due to the over heat problem of NVIDEA graphics card. The only way is changing the complete chipset, but it costing around 400$.
Is that costs that much and Do I have any another way to bring my laptop into working condition.
My worry is if change the chipset, is there a guarantee that it works fine without heating problem?
Is there any other motherboard available without NVDIA graphics card for my laptop model?
My Laptop Model is DV2899EA.
Regards,
Raju
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You have the Intel version of the dv2700 series which is not as prone to failure as the AMD version. However, you do have the nVidia GeForce graphics, which as you have seen can fail.
460716-001
The above is the part number of the system board with the Intel integrated graphics. Here is a link to the Service Manual:
Manual
The motherboard itself is readily available on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-HP-460716-001-Pavilion-Intel-Socket-478-Laptop-Motherboard-/2308...
This motherboard would have lower performance in gaming and graphics but would run cooler and likely last longer.
The board should fit but there may be minor differences with the ports which could require some fitting.
You can likely get a local service shop to install the integrated grahics type board for around $150 labor, which would make the total bill more like $250 than $400. I would frankly buy a new laptop before spending that much to repair it but it is your call.

Similar Messages

HP Pavilion DV6-1264CA Artist Edition 2 left touchpad button is screwed up

I'm a proud owner of an Artist Edition DV6 laptop, but a few months ago the left touchpad button suffered a bit of a failure. Through normal use, the left side of the left button (the one you use to click on just about everything) seems to have broken down. I am not familiar with the inner workings of this device, but it feels like there are two underlying supports that hold the button up and allow it to be clicked down on, one on each side of the button.
A while ago, the left side of the button started squeaking while clicking, and now it sags down, and the button can be rocked from side to side. The right side of the button is still up, and it now sits on a slant. Visually it is just a minor annoyance, but what is driving me batty is that now the button essentially "clicks" on its own. It can still be used normally, but often the button will click multiple times within a fraction of a second. I only use the laptop for entertainment, but it's still annoying as hell, especially when playing games where unintended clicking can lead to irreversible actions.
I have looked into the HP catalog for repair parts, but as other Artist Edition owners have discovered, there are no specific parts for the AE model, and the only relevant part is a complete touchpad with the whole palm rest attached to it. Of course, the palm rest doesn't have the Artist Edition graphics on it, which I absolutely intend to keep.
So I was wondering, if i can locate another palm rest with the touchpad, is the touchpad transferrable to my palm rest? Or is it inseparable? Are all DV6 touchpads the same? Or alternately, if I disassemble my touchpad, what are the chances that it is repairable? Maybe something just popped out of place?
Oh, and before you ask, the laptop is out of warranty, and I'm not sure I trust the clowns at Best Buy to be able to fix it, and to do so in a timely manner. I'd rather explore all options and see if I can fix it myself first.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Phil

Does anybody have any input? I see tons of sellers selling HP DV6 parts on eBay, I just need to know if I can swap over a touchpad from one palmrest to another, and if all touchpads are the same in the DV6-7 range.

Motherboard failure: license redemption and changing OS?

Hi,
I own the CS6 Premium Production package -- I am a student -- which I purchased in September 2012. I have it installed on a MacBook Pro running OSX 10.6.8. Unfortunately I have recurrent problems with my computer: the motherboard crashed twice in late 2012 and early 2013 -- I already contacted Adobe Support at the time because the softwares were considered to be still installed on "another computer" due to the change of motherboard and this issue was solved very quickly -- and I am currently encountering what seems to be the same motherboard failure.
For now I haven't repaired my MacBook yet and I don't need -- yet -- troobleshooting concerning the licenses but I can't boot it anymore, which means I cannot cancel the license of my Adobe softwares. As it will probably be the motherboard again (same symptoms) I would like to know before handling my computer to Apple if it will be possible to cancel, again, my previous install on this almost-dead motherboard once it is replaced.
Second question, because I am a bit fed up with this expensive Mac issue, I am considering going back to Windows but I feel trapped for my also expensive Adobe softwares are Mac-only: what are my options? Is there any chance to do that for free since I would obviously exchange Mac for Windows and not be using both? Being a student, are there any additional options?
Best regards,

Thank you for your reply. I tried the chat earlier but for some reason it wasn't working... I'll give it another try now.
I took a look at the form to fill out for changing OS, I don't find the name corresponding to my boxset (here is what it looks like). Is it under a different name than "CS6 Production Premium"?
EDIT: no, I am still getting a "Chat is unavailable right now" message after submitting my question. What is strange is that it seemed to work for a few seconds since I first got a message "You're now chatting with <firstname>"...

Re: win7 (prof edition) hd failure

Just an update.
I believe some EVIL beings from some powerful organization has totally hijacked my Lenovo laptop. Now the F1 key would not bring up the BIO setup menu, instead, it asked if I want to boot to Windows 7. Windows update for .NET Framework 4 failed. Previously I fixed. Now it's gone again.
These [mod edit] despicable evil beings are most likely from a government. An individual would not have such motivation.
Moderator note: This message regarding a hijack has been moved to Security & Malware from the original discussion: http://forums.lenovo.com/t5/R-and-L-Series-ThinkPad-Laptops/win7-prof-edition-hd-failure/td-p/123610...

Hello,
My general rule of thumb when encountering these types of issues is to get on the phone with your anti-malware software vendor's technical support department. They are likely best able to investigate and troubleshoot issues you think may be related to malware (whether from governments, criminal organizations or just garden-variety hackers).
Regards,
Aryeh Goretsky
I am a volunteer and neither a Lenovo nor a Microsoft employee. • Dexter is a good dog • Dexter je dobrý pes
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TouchSmart tx2 motherboard failure

Hi,
Hoping someone can point me in a direction.. Turned my laptop on the other day and got nothing.. NUM lock and CAPS lock blink once... Yay motherboard failure!
It's well beyond warranty at this point, so I'm at a loss.. Do I attempt to replace it myself? If so is there a better place to get the part? is it worth it? Safer to bring it somewhere and have them do it? Risk of hard drive loss?
The internet suggests I remove the motherboard and throw it in the oven (325 for 8 minutes) thoughts? will a blow dryer (for shrink wrap, not hair.. more powerful) solve issue? (at least temporarily so I can run a backup that's not a week old?)
Really frustrating...
HP Touchsmart tx2 FR239AV running Windows 7 64 bit.
Thanks,
Joe

Okay, I have the fix for this and it is very inexpensive, but takes some minimal work. This same problem you all have described and I have found on many other forums happened to me 1.5 years into ownership; the screen did nothing, the num and caps lock lights flashed, and the PC otherwise acted like it was on (though the fan did not always run). The first time it happened--1.5 years into ownership--I checked around with some geeks and everyone thought it was the motherboard. I sent it back to HP because I had purchased an extended warranty and they said they had to replace the cpu. Almost exactly 1.5 years later, the same problem happened again; this time I had no warranty so I assumed it was the cpu again. I installed a new cpu and it did nothing to correct the problem. I, then, noticed that my GPU and Southbridge were after-market additions or, at least, re-solders (it is very clear that they were not original because the repair person had applied a red glue to keep them in place and the fellow I speak of below confirmed that the repairs were post-purchase). Since I purchased the computer new from HP and I knew that the only time the PC had been opened was by HP's repair department, this means HP's repair letter was incorrect when it stated they just replaced the CPU, because they actually did major work to my motherboard by replacing the GPU and Southbridge. I also researced online and found that the likely culprit was actually the Gpu, not the Cpu; others are catching on to this problem.
I asked my neighbor, whose business is hardware repair on PCs, servers, etc. He said that these AMDs were notorious for overheating (which I've always known) and he enlightened me on what happens when they overheat. THEY DO NOT BURN OUT. They just rise up off of the motherboard and come unsoldered from the motherboard. "That's great, but what can you do about it," I said. "Do I have to replace my motherboard when I almost certainly have 100% quality parts that just aren't connected to one another." He said "no" and educated me quite a bit further. The hair dryer thing can work, but these motherboard repair guys have an infrared heat gun to do the repair. He took my motherboard, wrapped it in aluminum foil, and shot BOTH MY SOUTHBRIDGE AND MY GPU (seperately) at around 150-200 degrees celcius, then pressed down on them until they cooled. Apparently, this works most of the time. The only exceptions would be if the GPU or Southbridge has risen so much that the connections touch one another and short out or the GPU/Southbridge did, in fact, burn out. Neither of these happen very often, though. A few notes on this repair: remove the CPU and clock battery from the motherboard before doing any heating and cover the other parts of the motherboard. The Southbridge is a processor that, on the tx2, is on the opposite side of the motherboard from the CPU/GPU. When assembled, it is just under the palm rest for the right hand (just to the right of the mousepad). It says "Southbridge" on it, but you might need magnification to read it. It has no heatsink, fan, or other heat dissipation mechanism. You should have both the Southbridge and the GPU shot with the heat and pushed down because the problem can be either one. You might be able to tell which one is the cause of the problem because you'll be able to see little metal beads under them if they have risen up.
But, that's not then end of the story. This reheat and press down repair worked for only a couple of weeks before the black screen problem happened again. My neighbor had indicated that, if it happened again, I should alter my heatsink and find a way to keep pressure on the GPU and Southbridge to keep them from rising and coming disconnected. Therefore, this 3rd time (once repaired by HP and the second and third by my neighbor) I put a little extra work into the reinstallation of the motherboard and took my neighbor's advice. One big problem you'll find is that the heatsink over them GPU has a piece of metal that is not copper, like the rest of the heatsink. In addition to that, that piece of metal does not even touch the GPU and HP just put a "cooling pad" between the two. Essentially, someone failed in the original design of the heatsink or the design of the motherboard because the GPU and CPU are not anywhere close to level with one another. The CPU is much taller, but the heatsink is level. To correct this, HP could have easily measured the distance and added a copper piece to the copper heatsink. Instead, they added some inferior alloy and a piece of fabric. Both likely conduct heat okay, but not nearly like copper and, because of the fabric pad, they don't put pressure on the GPU. The best fix for this would be to replace the non-copper piece, but I didn't want to bend the heatsink and not have it level (it needs good contact with the GPU). Therefore, I got a piece of flat copper from my neighbor, doubled it over, and used that in place of the fabric "cooling pad." I, of course, put Arctic Ice between all of the pieces. Arctic Ice is a silver compound that should always be used between pieces that are to conduct heat; it connects them. You can't let your copper pieces touch the resistors/transistors on the top of the GPU/CPU/Southbridge, or your short them out, so be careful.
For the Southbridge, since there is no heat conductor on it, but there is a metal heat shield on the underside of the wrist-rest, you can get some copper or take an old penny (you need a pre-1980s one for it to be copper) and bend it in half and in half again, so it is the general shape of a piece of pie. This could also be done for the copper needed for between the GPU and heatsink. After each fold, hammer it very well. This can be done with a minimal amount of tools: two pairs of pliers and a hammer. Grab the penny from opposite ends with the two pairs of pliers (with a little space between the noses of the pliers) and bend it as far as you can before the pliers touch. Then, keep the penny in one pair of pliers and beat the penny with the pliers as far as you can like that. Then, grab the folded penny with the pliers and squeeze it until the fold is flat. Then beat the penny until it is completely flat. Then do the whole process over again to make the penny 4 pennies thick. However, make sure to beat the penny enough between folds to where it is really just about 3 pennies thick. That way, it should be just thick enough to touch both the wrist-wrest and the Southbridge. Put the Arctic Ice between the Southbridge and the folded penny and maybe between the metal on the wrist-wrest and the penny.
I have done most of the above. I can't say that I've done the penny trick and you'll note that I wrote it as a hypothetical instruction, as I would never deface money. What I have done above has worked so far and the GPU and Southbridge are cooler and hopefully there is pressure on them so that they will not rise off the board and cause the problem again. Because the GPU is cooler, the CPU is also cooler.
I wrote this post on my repaired tx2!
As evidence that this works, search ebay and the internet generally for this motherboard (HP 504466-001) and see what you find. You'll find a lot of suppliers that want you to send them your old motherboard when they send you a REFURBISHED ONE. You'll also not that you can pay different prices for different lenghts of warrantly. It seems that these companies likely only use the heat method explained above (one even has a photo of their heat device) and they just constantly resell the same motherboards. It is a great idea because it is such little work to get it back in working order. Remember, though, if you buy one of these to somehow put some solid pressure on the GPU and Southbridge or you'll just be buying a new board again.
Another thought to fix this problem is to drill more holes for the intake and exhaust for the fan to pull air through. I tried this, but my drill bit didn't go through the bottom of the PC and I found that our tx2 bases are made out of metal! I never knew that. I did, however, remove some of the plastic from the underside of the keyboard, at the top-right of the keyboard, to get a little more air flow. One day, I might drill or dremel some more holes in the based between the current air inlets and the back of the PC.

MSI 865PE Platinium edition board failure?

hello guys,
umm i recently upgraded my pc's powersupply unit and installed a new MSI NX6200 video card in my MSI 865PE Platinium edition board. well when we started the PC there was no signal display on the monitor and i failed to get the my pc started the power was on but nothing on screen, no beeps from the motherboard at all. The D brack on the back of the pc indicated memory failure so we took out the memory nothing no beeps i asked a computer seller guy to check it he said that the chips of the board are not getting hot but are cold so might be the board failure, i really don't know what to do, the warrenty is over as it was 1 year nearly and i don't get it the CPU did not fall or nothing only thing was i usually never cleaned my pc from inside so dust could be the reason or could voltage surge or something could have done some damage anyway my 130 $ board has failed from MSI gurentee tests or whatever . ;-((any suggestions ? guys

midhat, try go through this to find out what's wrong?
is there a buzzer/speaker on the board? If there is no, can you hook up one buzzer on your casing? After that, try this:
1. remove EVERYTHING, except CPU. No RAM, no display, no EVERYTHING ELSE. All OUT!
---> you should hear 3 long beeps. If no, you have pretty much a dead BIOS, or an unsupported CPU, or a dead CPU, or a dead board, or really bad PSU.
2. as (1), but add RAM.
--> you should hear 8 fast long-short beeps. If no, it could be half-defected RAM, bad chipset, bad board, or a bad PSU.
3. as (2), but add Display card,
--> you should see POST screen. If not, then bad display card, bad board or bad PSU.
4. as (3), but hook up the rests, one by one. Try to repeat power on again and see what's wrong.

Re-Download Songs After Motherboard Failure

The computer with my son's iTunes library had a catastrophic hardware failure and is now a paperweight. The iTunes library was not backed up (great lesson).
Any ideas on whether we can re-download the files w/o his having to pay for them again?
Also any ideas on why "deauthorize all computers" does not appear on my account page so I can deauthorize the paperweight?

Apple have a strict download once policy, howver I understand they can occasionally make an exception, there is an email link here:
http://www.apple.com/support/itunes/store/lostmusic/
If you have the files on an iPod or another PC they can be recovered from there. The iPod needs a bit of extra work - I can give some instructions if required.
The other thing to consider if it was a mother board failure, is a drive cradle - a gizmo which will allow you to use an internal hard drive as an external drive via a USB cable. They are not that expensive compared to music and it would allow you to recover files from the old drive.
Try googling drive cradle or looking in site that supplies electronics such as Amazon.
Unfortunately you can't deauthorise a dead computer until you have used up all 5 authorisations, then you can deauthorise all in one go from your store account.
PS I think googling drive enclosure is better if you are intersted in that.
Message was edited by: polydorus

Hp dv9000 possible motherboard failure

I have had my dv9000 for about 3 years. This problem just started yesterday. Basically, it won't start. It worked ok in the morning, then I put it to sleep to take it somewhere. However, when I tried to open it back up, nothing happened. I hit the power button and the lights came on for a second or two and the fan started up, but I heard nothing else and then everything just turned off. I have tried to hit the power button again and again, but the same thing happens, the lights come on for a second, the fan turns on for a second then it all dies. I have disconnected the battery and tried it, and have tried it on battery only, no luck either way. I have also tried to flash the ram and it has done nothing either. I originally thought it might be a hard drive failure, but then I was told that it is probably the motherboard. I don't necessairily want to go and spend the money on a new motherboard if that isn't the problem, but I'm not positive what the problem is, or if its even worth the money to try and replace it. Any help would be appreciated.

I have the same problem. The Laptop worked two days ago, crashed (powered off) and will not boot. All of the blue LEDs light for 1 second when the Power Button is pressed then go out. Unlike the original post, I do not hear any fan or any other sounds. Local PC store told me what others have posted. Motherboard issues like this are common on these models. Not worth fixing. What a waste of money. This laptop was used in-home only as a desktop replacement. The furthest it ever traveled was between floors. Never dropped, never damaged in any way. Obviously a design flaw that cost me a bunch of $. I hope HP monitors these forums. They can see how many devices I have personally registered in the past, not to mention the ridiculous amount of HP hardware I have also been responsible for purchasing at work. Perhaps they can calculate just how much future business they have lost due to this cheap piece of junk. By the way, this is the first total failure of a personal computer, (Laptop or Desktop) since my first purcahse in 1994. Yes I have had equipment failures (Power Supply, A/C Power bricks,Laptop Screens, Audio and video cards and memory) but never a failure that would render the entire system useless and worthless. Disgusting.

SATA cable or motherboard failure?

Hey community,
my old macbook pro 13inch, 2010 mid, 2.4ghz, 250Gb HDD broke down. Tried many different solutions to fix it, but unfortunately there was no other choice then to buy new HDD. So bought the new one, installed, changed it and installed iOS, after using it for couple hours it started to got laggy and had to force shut. After tried to turn it on, there was no HD visible, not even in the recovery mode, tried to plug it in, back and forwards many times, but still gave no results. I can hear it spinning, but it won't recognize.
Is it the sata cable that has to be changed or it is the failure of the motherboard?
Thanks for answers!

Do you have the original DVD that shipped with the computer? If so you can try booting with it. If the computer boots with the DVD it would point to the cable being damaged or loose from the logic board. If you’ve been using TimeMachine with an external hard drive (not a TimeCapsule) and if the TimeMachine drive was plugged into the computer when you upgraded to Mavericks it should have its own recovery partition so you can try restarting the computer with the TM drive connected. This could also help indicate whether it is the logic board or SATA cable. For future reference, this is also one of the reasons I like using a clone backup as a secondary backup drive because I can always boot up with it if the internal drive isn’t functional.

HP ENVY DV7-7212nr Possible Motherboard Failure?

HP ENVY DV7-7212nr
Windows 8 (Factory) upgraded to Windows 8.1 Pro thru Windows Store.
8 GB DDR3 RAM
NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M 2GB GDDR5
750 GB HDD with 32 GB mSSD Cache
Ralink RT3290 WiFi Card (Starting dropping connections a few days before this happened)
Last night, I was using my laptop normally, and set it down to play a game. During the game, it died, and not even thinking about it, i just returned it to my desk for the next day.
Well, today, I charged it up, and went to turn it on and I get next to nothing! The power LED remains on solid, and the hard disk activity is solid for about 2 seconds before shutting off. The screen is blank, there are no blink or beep codes and the WiFi LED does not change colors indicating the computer has at least booted.
Being an IT technician, I removed the RAM and reseated it. That did not help. I also tried booting without the hard drive plugged in. That did not help either. I also tried the Win+B BIOS recovery with my hard drive and a USB drive, and no luck there iether. The last (probably) worst part is this...I removed the RAM and powered on without it, and still, no blink or beep codes.
At this point, I believe that my laptop has a failed motherboard, but I just want to check from now until I get the chance to call HP support if there is anything else I can try. My warranty expires in only three weeks, so at least it happened before, not after.
Also, does anyone know the direct phone number to HP support that is on-shore in the USA. I have never had a good turn-out speaking with the off-shore support, and would love to work with someone who can help me better right off the bat.
Thanks!
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Hi,
Thanks so much! I will be sure to contact that way.
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Win7 (prof edition) hd failure

Attempted different boot options all failed.
Went to BIO setup, attempted to test Hard Drive, testing went on for several minutes, status indicated 0% progress.
Set BIO to boot with diagnostics (instead of default quick).
Boot process indicated that Media Failure.
Opened up the back of the laptop and nudged the HD tighter (in case cable got loose).
Rebooted as Safe Boot to Prompt, after over 10 minutes waiting, finally booted to C:\Windows\system32
Issued the command of chkdsk /f
then, reboot with Safe Boot with Networking
After over 15 minutes it still hanged, finally rebooting with black screen.
All the while I was using a "Rescue/Recover" CD from Lenovo (their NC office sent it).
It seems obviously the hard drive has some serious issue. If it's totally bad, how come at some point today it was able to boot to C:\Windows\system32 and allowing some command?
Where I'm now it's impossible to find a PC repair shop over the weekend. By the way even last night it was working fine. But in the last few weeks it often crashed, initially I thought it was due to the issue of failure to update .NET Framework 4 but the day before yesterday I finally managed to update it.
Got an idea? Thanks.

Please mention your laptop's model and machine type. It is almost certain that your hard disk is defective though. You need to take the laptop to a Lenovo Service representative if you are still in warranty, or buy a new hard disk and use the rescue and recover disks to bring it to factory condition.
If you have access to a desktop computer you could try taking the hard disk off the laptop and connecting it to the desktop and run tests from there, or use a usb enclosure to connect it to another machine, laptop or desktop and try to troubleshoot.
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If you find a post helpful and it answers your question, please mark it as an "Accepted Solution"!
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Should I Get The HP Pavilion dv2800t Artist Edition?

Processor, Operating System and Memory
Operating system installed
Genuine Windows Vista® Home Premium with Service Pack 1
Processor
Intel® Core™ 2 Duo Processor T5550
• 1.83 GHz, 2MB L2 Cache, 667 MHz Front Side Bus
Standard memory
3072 MB
Memory type
DDR2 System Memory
memory layout
3072 MB (2 x 1536 MB)
Internal drives
Internal hard disk drive
250 GB
Hard disk controller
SATA Hard Disk Drive
Hard disk drive speed
5400 rpm
Optical drive type
LightScribe Super Multi 8X DVD±R/RW with Double Layer Support
System features
Memory card device
5-in-1 integrated Digital Media Reader for Secure Digital cards, MultiMedia cards, Memory Stick, Memory Stick Pro, or xD Picture cards
Modem
High speed 56K modem
Network interface
Ethernet 10/100BT integrated network interface
Wireless Technologies
Intel® PRO/Wireless 4965AGN Network Connection & Bluetooth™
Wireless capability
Yes
External I/O ports
2 Universal Serial Bus (USB) 2.0, 2 Headphone out, 1 microphone-in, 1 HDMI, 1 VGA (15-pin), 1 TV-Out (S-video), 1 RJ-11 (modem), 1 RJ -45 (LAN), 1 notebook expansion port 3, 1 IEEE 1394 Firewire (4-pin), 1 Consumer IR
Video capture interface
IEEE 1394 FireWire® Interface
Expansion slots
One ExpressCard/54 slot (also supports ExpressCard/34)
Display size
14.1” WXGA High Definition BrightView Widescreen Display
Display resolution
1280 x 800
Video adapter
NVIDIA GeForce 8400M GS
Video RAM
Up to 1407MB Total Graphics Memory with 128MB dedicated
Control Panel
HP QuickPlay media player software and its dedicated menu controls, music and DVD buttons
Webcam
HP Pavilion WebCam with Integrated Microphone
Handheld remote control
HP Mobile Remote Control
Internal audio
3D Sound Blaster Pro compatible sound 16 bit integrated
Speakers and microphone
Altec Lansing® speakers
Keyboard
101 key compatible keyboard
Mouse/Pointing Device
Touch Pad with On/Off button and dedicated vertical Scroll Up/Down pad, volume control, mute buttons, 2 Quick Launch Buttons
power supply type
90W AC Adapter
Software
Software - productivity & finance
Microsoft® Works, Microsoft® Office 2007 Student and Teacher Edition: 60 Day Trial Version
Included/Pre-installed software
HP PhotoSmart Essentials, HP Quick Play, Muvee autoProducer, Cyberlink DVD Suite, Adobe® Acrobat Reader, HP Games Powered by Wild Tangent
Software included
Recovery partition (including possibility to recover system, applications and drivers separately); Optional re-allocation of recovery partition; Recovery CD/DVD creation tool; Symantec™ Norton Internet Security™ 2008 (60 days live update); Notebook Help & Support

In my opinion, no. It's not worth it. I tested it in my office and I don't see the need to pay for that kind of price.

Logitech motherboard failure 14 month old iMac

Anyone else had this problem? My friend owns it. Is out of warranty. She is told at Apple store $700 to repair or buy new.
Thanks

UPDATE
My friend went back to the local Apple Store where the problem with her imac had been correctly identified as a faild motherboard. The manager offered to sell her a new one for the $700.00 she would have needed to replace the defective motherboard. Took several things into account. It was only about 3 months out of warranty. She had been without a computer for almost 4 weeks since she took it first to the other retailer where it had been purchased. It should not have failed in the first place.
This was her first Apple computer. She is now a lifelong Apple customer.
Thank all of you for your input.

How can I deactivate after motherboard failure?

My motherboard failed on my main desktop PC and I am just waiting for a new one. I could not deactivate PS (CS5) and I am worried that the new motherboard will be seen by Adobe as a new computer. Since I already have CS5 loaded on my laptop I guess I won't be able to use it on the repaired desktop. I have logged in to Adobe "Customer Care" to ask them about the issue but I keep going round in circles.When I try "contact us" under the appropriate topic I just get sent back to the first screen. Help please.

Take a look here: Activation & Deactivation Help

TX2000 Motherboard failure

Have had this tablet pc for 14 months and suddenly all that happens when you turn it on is that lots of lights come on but black screen stays black and
there is no whirring of hard drive. Local HP repair center says faulty motherboard...and $500+ for new one; I spent over $1,200 for this one...and cannot believe there is no recourse. I am searching for a better solution but don't know where to turn. On this forum I find plenty about other laptops but not hte tx2000 and when I google, all I find is reviews; none that tell you NEVER buy HP again. Can anyone advise what can be done?

Hi,
I have had the TX2000 for about two years and suddenly yesterday I saw the same issue that is discussed here. I am totally shocked to see the total disregard on HP's part to maintain their customers. This laptop had issues right from the beginning. The first piece I received was so beat up (literally had a dent behind the screen housing) that I had to get it replaced. The laptop would run so hot that it melted part of the plastic table it was sitting on.
The replacement laptop was plagued with heat and performance issues. A few months ago I dropped the laptop by accident (3 feet) and the touch screen crystal shattered. I cleaned the glass and continued using the laptop without it being a touch screen.
Now the machine would not boot any more. Once in a while it decides to boot up and works as if nothing is wrong. I wish I new about all these complaints before because I made the mistake of buying DV3 2155MX form my wife. Now this is where I found what HP is doing first hand.
This laptop is brand new from Best Buy. Three months into service the screen went dark. After that the laptop has been sent back to HP for service (Hardware issues) for FIVE times. Each time they repair and send it back with a new problem.
It almost seems like they are recycling old defective peaces of hardware when they repair computers. Because every time I notice a totally new issue. This is ridiculous. I am down 2500 USD on two laptops now and an enormous headache of talking to the customer service people and shipping this defective laptop back and forth. Needless to say, THEY HAVE REFUSED TO REPLACE THIS MACHINE OR REFUND MY MONEY.
I know i will have to post this in the other forum meant for the DV3 model but just wanted to reaffirm any one who is listening. DO NOT EVER BUY HP (AND MOTOROLA PRODUCTS)

DV2899EA Artist Edition Motherboard Failure

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