Hp dv9000 possible motherboard failure

I have had my dv9000 for about 3 years. This problem just started yesterday. Basically, it won't start. It worked ok in the morning, then I put it to sleep to take it somewhere. However, when I tried to open it back up, nothing happened. I hit the power button and the lights came on for a second or two and the fan started up, but I heard nothing else and then everything just turned off. I have tried to hit the power button again and again, but the same thing happens, the lights come on for a second, the fan turns on for a second then it all dies. I have disconnected the battery and tried it, and have tried it on battery only, no luck either way. I have also tried to flash the ram and it has done nothing either. I originally thought it might be a hard drive failure, but then I was told that it is probably the motherboard. I don't necessairily want to go and spend the money on a new motherboard if that isn't the problem, but I'm not positive what the problem is, or if its even worth the money to try and replace it. Any help would be appreciated.

I have the same problem. The Laptop worked two days ago, crashed (powered off) and will not boot. All of the blue LEDs light for 1 second when the Power Button is pressed then go out. Unlike the original post, I do not hear any fan or any other sounds. Local PC store told me what others have posted. Motherboard issues like this are common on these models. Not worth fixing. What a waste of money. This laptop was used in-home only as a desktop replacement. The furthest it ever traveled was between floors. Never dropped, never damaged in any way. Obviously a design flaw that cost me a bunch of $. I hope HP monitors these forums. They can see how many devices I have personally registered in the past, not to mention the ridiculous amount of HP hardware I have also been responsible for purchasing at work. Perhaps they can calculate just how much future business they have lost due to this cheap piece of junk. By the way, this is the first total failure of a personal computer, (Laptop or Desktop) since my first purcahse in 1994. Yes I have had equipment failures (Power Supply, A/C Power bricks,Laptop Screens, Audio and video cards and memory) but never a failure that would render the entire system useless and worthless. Disgusting.

Similar Messages

HP ENVY DV7-7212nr Possible Motherboard Failure?

HP ENVY DV7-7212nr
Windows 8 (Factory) upgraded to Windows 8.1 Pro thru Windows Store.
8 GB DDR3 RAM
NVIDIA GeForce GT 650M 2GB GDDR5
750 GB HDD with 32 GB mSSD Cache
Ralink RT3290 WiFi Card (Starting dropping connections a few days before this happened)
Last night, I was using my laptop normally, and set it down to play a game. During the game, it died, and not even thinking about it, i just returned it to my desk for the next day.
Well, today, I charged it up, and went to turn it on and I get next to nothing! The power LED remains on solid, and the hard disk activity is solid for about 2 seconds before shutting off. The screen is blank, there are no blink or beep codes and the WiFi LED does not change colors indicating the computer has at least booted.
Being an IT technician, I removed the RAM and reseated it. That did not help. I also tried booting without the hard drive plugged in. That did not help either. I also tried the Win+B BIOS recovery with my hard drive and a USB drive, and no luck there iether. The last (probably) worst part is this...I removed the RAM and powered on without it, and still, no blink or beep codes.
At this point, I believe that my laptop has a failed motherboard, but I just want to check from now until I get the chance to call HP support if there is anything else I can try. My warranty expires in only three weeks, so at least it happened before, not after.
Also, does anyone know the direct phone number to HP support that is on-shore in the USA. I have never had a good turn-out speaking with the off-shore support, and would love to work with someone who can help me better right off the bat.
Thanks!
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Hi,
Thanks so much! I will be sure to contact that way.
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Motherboard failure: license redemption and changing OS?

Hi,
I own the CS6 Premium Production package -- I am a student -- which I purchased in September 2012. I have it installed on a MacBook Pro running OSX 10.6.8. Unfortunately I have recurrent problems with my computer: the motherboard crashed twice in late 2012 and early 2013 -- I already contacted Adobe Support at the time because the softwares were considered to be still installed on "another computer" due to the change of motherboard and this issue was solved very quickly -- and I am currently encountering what seems to be the same motherboard failure.
For now I haven't repaired my MacBook yet and I don't need -- yet -- troobleshooting concerning the licenses but I can't boot it anymore, which means I cannot cancel the license of my Adobe softwares. As it will probably be the motherboard again (same symptoms) I would like to know before handling my computer to Apple if it will be possible to cancel, again, my previous install on this almost-dead motherboard once it is replaced.
Second question, because I am a bit fed up with this expensive Mac issue, I am considering going back to Windows but I feel trapped for my also expensive Adobe softwares are Mac-only: what are my options? Is there any chance to do that for free since I would obviously exchange Mac for Windows and not be using both? Being a student, are there any additional options?
Best regards,

Thank you for your reply. I tried the chat earlier but for some reason it wasn't working... I'll give it another try now.
I took a look at the form to fill out for changing OS, I don't find the name corresponding to my boxset (here is what it looks like). Is it under a different name than "CS6 Production Premium"?
EDIT: no, I am still getting a "Chat is unavailable right now" message after submitting my question. What is strange is that it seemed to work for a few seconds since I first got a message "You're now chatting with <firstname>"...

PC no longer starts, possible CPU failure?

My 875p Neo used to work fine, then suddently stopped working. Now when you give power to the box the set of D-Bracket LEDs are all showing red. (they initially flash briefly all green, then go red). No beep from speaker at all. Clearing the BIOS similar has no effect.
In checking the manual, 4 red LEDs mean a possible CPU failure. So I have tried reseating the CPU and now replacing it for a new one (3Ghz P4). Neither having any effect.
Is this likely that both of the CPU's had died (the 2nd one being brand new), or a m'board failure? Any help before I return the m'baord welcome.
Rest of machine is running pair of 120Gb RAID1 drives, + 9600XT graphics card.
regards
Al

Well I have to say that the Chances of Having 2 P4's that are Faulty is Pretty Slim Indeed . I assume that you have Checked the Powersupply and all of the Connections mainly the 20 Pin Main Connector and the 4 Pin CPU Connection?....I would try another PSU (Borrow one) Before Returning the Board..Please tell us What Brand and the Specs of your PSU ......Sean

TouchSmart tx2 motherboard failure

Hi,
Hoping someone can point me in a direction.. Turned my laptop on the other day and got nothing.. NUM lock and CAPS lock blink once... Yay motherboard failure!
It's well beyond warranty at this point, so I'm at a loss.. Do I attempt to replace it myself? If so is there a better place to get the part? is it worth it? Safer to bring it somewhere and have them do it? Risk of hard drive loss?
The internet suggests I remove the motherboard and throw it in the oven (325 for 8 minutes) thoughts? will a blow dryer (for shrink wrap, not hair.. more powerful) solve issue? (at least temporarily so I can run a backup that's not a week old?)
Really frustrating...
HP Touchsmart tx2 FR239AV running Windows 7 64 bit.
Thanks,
Joe

Okay, I have the fix for this and it is very inexpensive, but takes some minimal work. This same problem you all have described and I have found on many other forums happened to me 1.5 years into ownership; the screen did nothing, the num and caps lock lights flashed, and the PC otherwise acted like it was on (though the fan did not always run). The first time it happened--1.5 years into ownership--I checked around with some geeks and everyone thought it was the motherboard. I sent it back to HP because I had purchased an extended warranty and they said they had to replace the cpu. Almost exactly 1.5 years later, the same problem happened again; this time I had no warranty so I assumed it was the cpu again. I installed a new cpu and it did nothing to correct the problem. I, then, noticed that my GPU and Southbridge were after-market additions or, at least, re-solders (it is very clear that they were not original because the repair person had applied a red glue to keep them in place and the fellow I speak of below confirmed that the repairs were post-purchase). Since I purchased the computer new from HP and I knew that the only time the PC had been opened was by HP's repair department, this means HP's repair letter was incorrect when it stated they just replaced the CPU, because they actually did major work to my motherboard by replacing the GPU and Southbridge. I also researced online and found that the likely culprit was actually the Gpu, not the Cpu; others are catching on to this problem.
I asked my neighbor, whose business is hardware repair on PCs, servers, etc. He said that these AMDs were notorious for overheating (which I've always known) and he enlightened me on what happens when they overheat. THEY DO NOT BURN OUT. They just rise up off of the motherboard and come unsoldered from the motherboard. "That's great, but what can you do about it," I said. "Do I have to replace my motherboard when I almost certainly have 100% quality parts that just aren't connected to one another." He said "no" and educated me quite a bit further. The hair dryer thing can work, but these motherboard repair guys have an infrared heat gun to do the repair. He took my motherboard, wrapped it in aluminum foil, and shot BOTH MY SOUTHBRIDGE AND MY GPU (seperately) at around 150-200 degrees celcius, then pressed down on them until they cooled. Apparently, this works most of the time. The only exceptions would be if the GPU or Southbridge has risen so much that the connections touch one another and short out or the GPU/Southbridge did, in fact, burn out. Neither of these happen very often, though. A few notes on this repair: remove the CPU and clock battery from the motherboard before doing any heating and cover the other parts of the motherboard. The Southbridge is a processor that, on the tx2, is on the opposite side of the motherboard from the CPU/GPU. When assembled, it is just under the palm rest for the right hand (just to the right of the mousepad). It says "Southbridge" on it, but you might need magnification to read it. It has no heatsink, fan, or other heat dissipation mechanism. You should have both the Southbridge and the GPU shot with the heat and pushed down because the problem can be either one. You might be able to tell which one is the cause of the problem because you'll be able to see little metal beads under them if they have risen up.
But, that's not then end of the story. This reheat and press down repair worked for only a couple of weeks before the black screen problem happened again. My neighbor had indicated that, if it happened again, I should alter my heatsink and find a way to keep pressure on the GPU and Southbridge to keep them from rising and coming disconnected. Therefore, this 3rd time (once repaired by HP and the second and third by my neighbor) I put a little extra work into the reinstallation of the motherboard and took my neighbor's advice. One big problem you'll find is that the heatsink over them GPU has a piece of metal that is not copper, like the rest of the heatsink. In addition to that, that piece of metal does not even touch the GPU and HP just put a "cooling pad" between the two. Essentially, someone failed in the original design of the heatsink or the design of the motherboard because the GPU and CPU are not anywhere close to level with one another. The CPU is much taller, but the heatsink is level. To correct this, HP could have easily measured the distance and added a copper piece to the copper heatsink. Instead, they added some inferior alloy and a piece of fabric. Both likely conduct heat okay, but not nearly like copper and, because of the fabric pad, they don't put pressure on the GPU. The best fix for this would be to replace the non-copper piece, but I didn't want to bend the heatsink and not have it level (it needs good contact with the GPU). Therefore, I got a piece of flat copper from my neighbor, doubled it over, and used that in place of the fabric "cooling pad." I, of course, put Arctic Ice between all of the pieces. Arctic Ice is a silver compound that should always be used between pieces that are to conduct heat; it connects them. You can't let your copper pieces touch the resistors/transistors on the top of the GPU/CPU/Southbridge, or your short them out, so be careful.
For the Southbridge, since there is no heat conductor on it, but there is a metal heat shield on the underside of the wrist-rest, you can get some copper or take an old penny (you need a pre-1980s one for it to be copper) and bend it in half and in half again, so it is the general shape of a piece of pie. This could also be done for the copper needed for between the GPU and heatsink. After each fold, hammer it very well. This can be done with a minimal amount of tools: two pairs of pliers and a hammer. Grab the penny from opposite ends with the two pairs of pliers (with a little space between the noses of the pliers) and bend it as far as you can before the pliers touch. Then, keep the penny in one pair of pliers and beat the penny with the pliers as far as you can like that. Then, grab the folded penny with the pliers and squeeze it until the fold is flat. Then beat the penny until it is completely flat. Then do the whole process over again to make the penny 4 pennies thick. However, make sure to beat the penny enough between folds to where it is really just about 3 pennies thick. That way, it should be just thick enough to touch both the wrist-wrest and the Southbridge. Put the Arctic Ice between the Southbridge and the folded penny and maybe between the metal on the wrist-wrest and the penny.
I have done most of the above. I can't say that I've done the penny trick and you'll note that I wrote it as a hypothetical instruction, as I would never deface money. What I have done above has worked so far and the GPU and Southbridge are cooler and hopefully there is pressure on them so that they will not rise off the board and cause the problem again. Because the GPU is cooler, the CPU is also cooler.
I wrote this post on my repaired tx2!
As evidence that this works, search ebay and the internet generally for this motherboard (HP 504466-001) and see what you find. You'll find a lot of suppliers that want you to send them your old motherboard when they send you a REFURBISHED ONE. You'll also not that you can pay different prices for different lenghts of warrantly. It seems that these companies likely only use the heat method explained above (one even has a photo of their heat device) and they just constantly resell the same motherboards. It is a great idea because it is such little work to get it back in working order. Remember, though, if you buy one of these to somehow put some solid pressure on the GPU and Southbridge or you'll just be buying a new board again.
Another thought to fix this problem is to drill more holes for the intake and exhaust for the fan to pull air through. I tried this, but my drill bit didn't go through the bottom of the PC and I found that our tx2 bases are made out of metal! I never knew that. I did, however, remove some of the plastic from the underside of the keyboard, at the top-right of the keyboard, to get a little more air flow. One day, I might drill or dremel some more holes in the based between the current air inlets and the back of the PC.

Motherboard failure - G4 Powerbook

I have a 15" powerbook G4 which I purchased in May 2006, and last week the machine failed to boot. I took it to the local Apple Store and they tell me the motherboard was fritzed and was quoted AUD$1600 to replace it.
Interestingly, a neighbour with the same model machine - just 2 days within warranty - had his machine diagnosed with the same problem at the same Apple Store . They tried to get him to pay for the repair even though he delivered it to them BEFORE the warranty expired - it just took them 3 weeks to get to it!
I would be interested to know if anyone else has experienced a similar problem and if it is unreasonable to expect more than 12 - 18 months operation of this rather vital component.
Thanks in advance..
Tony

I have the very same problem. my powerbook is a little older than 2 years and so far i've been really happy with it. it was a pretty big investment for me and now i can have it fixed for around 1,500 euros. nice.
i'm really not happy about it and to be honest i rather feel let down. i got a powerbook because i love its aesthetic and easy to use qualities and because apple is not so susceptible to viruses and other such stuff. right now though i don't know if i ever wanna spend so much money on an apple product ever again if it's gonna go to bits in no time. my old pc laptop lasted me six years and if it wasn't for the memory and speed and stuff i'd still use it. it's bloody microsoft but at least the motherboard doesn't die overnight. i've searched a few forums and apparently this powerbook malfunction is quite common. how can that be???
i'm currently looking into getting a second-hand motherboard if possible and have it installed by a private person who knows their stuff. doesn't look good though.
good luck to you! i

DV2899EA Artist Edition Motherboard Failure

Hi,
I have a problem with my Laptop. When I have given in HP service centre , they said the chipset has failed due to the over heat problem of NVIDEA graphics card. The only way is changing the complete chipset, but it costing around 400$.
Is that costs that much and Do I have any another way to bring my laptop into working condition.
My worry is if change the chipset, is there a guarantee that it works fine without heating problem?
Is there any other motherboard available without NVDIA graphics card for my laptop model?
My Laptop Model is DV2899EA.
Regards,
Raju
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View Solution.

You have the Intel version of the dv2700 series which is not as prone to failure as the AMD version. However, you do have the nVidia GeForce graphics, which as you have seen can fail.
460716-001
The above is the part number of the system board with the Intel integrated graphics. Here is a link to the Service Manual:
Manual
The motherboard itself is readily available on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-HP-460716-001-Pavilion-Intel-Socket-478-Laptop-Motherboard-/2308...
This motherboard would have lower performance in gaming and graphics but would run cooler and likely last longer.
The board should fit but there may be minor differences with the ports which could require some fitting.
You can likely get a local service shop to install the integrated grahics type board for around $150 labor, which would make the total bill more like $250 than $400. I would frankly buy a new laptop before spending that much to repair it but it is your call.

Toshiba P10-504 Motherboard Failure

I recently had a major problem with my Toshiba P10-504. I have no idea how it happened but according to the people at Toshiba who are fixing it the motherboard has failed. This meant that when attempting to power up all I got was the blue light and the sound of the fan and possibly the HD whizzing round and no display at all. The cost of fixing it has been quoted at about 450 and it will take a couple of weeks. As you can imagine I never want to run into this problem again and would really like to understand how it happened. Any information would be great. To help heres a list of everything I did and didnt do before it crashed that may be relevant:
Before the crash
1) Installed a new memory module: 1GB DDR333 SODIM (pqi brand?) - I installed the module a week before the system failed and it was running fine. Im obviously worried about re-installing the module when the laptop is returned (advice?).
One the day of the crash
1) Set processor scheduling to background services To increase the performance for audio software
2) Turned of all the power schemes and hibernation modes Always found these annoying
3) Fixed the swap file for the virtual memory to about 1.2GB Just experimenting with different performance settings, although that was probably a bit excessive.
4) After doing the above three things I simply shut the lid, no applications were running and the system had not yet been shut down and was running off batteries. Thats the last time it worked.
The laptop had not experienced any physical damage.
Thanks for reading through all that - hope Im making sense. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Chris.

Hi Chris
Looking at the list of things you done I cannot see anything that would damage the computer.
Installing hardware (memories, PC Cards and so on) are always a 'risk', but as long as you keep to the standards and use your head instead of force you should be pretty safe.
Since the memory had been running in your machine for a week it seems very unlikely that it can be the cause of the problem.
My very long experience with notebook hardware service tells me that I in but a very few cases have seen software damaging hardware. In theory it is possible, but in real life - it's the last possibility on my list anyway.
Stuff in the computer breaks most of the time for no visilible reason - means that it does not break because of misuse, bad handling or bad software. It just breaks.
Looking into the number of 'parts' 1 computer have inside (not counting just Motherboard, memory, harddisk and so on but counting connectors, transistors in the big chips, solderings on the big chips and so on) I (my personal point of view) feel sometimes that it is good fortune that they don't break.
So to answer your question: just take normal care of your computer, stick to hardware-options that are manufactured for your computer (prefer Toshiba originals) and you've done your part of the deal :)
BR
Tom

L655D-S5055 LCD horizontal line issue - possible motherboard or GPU failing??

Hello,
A few weeks ago a horizontal line running from the left edge to the right edge of the LCD about 2 1/4"
from the bottom of the LCD started to occur. The line shows up from the time the screen turns on
and remains in CMOS or the Win 7 desktop. I have replaced the LCD panel with a new OEM LCD
panel, this did not resolve the issue. I replaced the internal video cable, this did not resolve the issue.
Since the line occurs in the CMOS screen (DOS prompt screen) or in Win7, there is not video driver
issue I believe. I also updated the L655D BIOS to the latest v2.10 Nothing has resolved the issue.
Is this possibly a sign of a GPU issue at the motherboard level? I have noted that the space below the line does "flicker" or distort the image, but only below the line. The rest of the image on the screen stays without any problem. I have also attached the laptop to an external monitor which has no line like this or any issues with the display at all. Thus the reason I had originally concluded the LCD panel and internal
video cable.
Does anyone know if this is a known problem with specific motherboards with this model laptop, or GPUs?
Is there a replacement motherboard program for this laptop as this is certainly a quality issue that should
not be left for the enduser to replace the motherboard and be charged a high cost repair such as this!
I appreciate any guidance or advice on this issue. I have attached two pictures for reference of this problem.
One shows the line in a Command prompt screen, the other while in Win 7.
[Updated: 2-Apr-2013] based on further research and experience with other similar issues, I am beginning to think this is related to heat and the GPU impacted by poor quality soldering or some other issue of that nature. I have performed "reballing" with other products, but am not sure about whether this issue can be resolved or how to go about an effective "reball" for this product motherboard. A replacement, used motherboard is hard to find and if found are over $150USD. Again, it seems unfair to the consumer to have a laptop like this for 4 years and need to replace the motherboard or live with this issue until the unit fails completely.
Thank you in advance.
MP
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L655D_LCD2.jpg ‏9 KB
L655D_LCD1.jpg ‏8 KB

Possible os failure

Sorry if this is long winded. Also posted in hardware topic as well My son (just finished Uni but lives 200mls away) has a 33 month old iMac G5, recently it would not always power (eg no electricity) up before finally failing.
It was taken to the local Apple Centre who said the logic (motherboard) had failed (due to a FireWire prob), a new one was flitted this week under 3yr warranty, however the shop said it will not boot up with the existing Hard Drive (but will with another) due to an OS failure (not covered under warranty, they said the Disk Utility is greyed out, (guessing they put it in a caddy). They said they will do several formats of the drive before reinstalling the OS on existing drive at a cost of £100!!!!!!! Now I have some questions as they need to know ASAP.
1. Could the logicboard failing, affect the OS or via versa.
2. Is the shop trying some rip off on cost of multiple reformatting saying it will take 2hrs to do?
3. Would we be better off getting a new hard drive and installing OS ourselves, or get shop to put in new HD rather than multireformat old HD to save on time? And then get some data recovery specialist to get my sons photo’s off (although shop says it can’t be done), only stuff he did not backup.
4.Is there a known issue with the board failing so early board?
Thanks in advance.
iMac G5 Mac OS X (10.4.2)

1. Certainly, it could/would mess up everthing.
2. It does take a long time, but why can't you do it at home? Yu just need your install disks. They don't have to stand there while it's doing it btw.
3. Yes, a new HD would be a good idea. I'd just get a Good Drive and do everything yourself. If DiskWarrior can't fix it, you might try Data Rescue II...
http://www.alsoft.com/DiskWarrior/
http://www.prosofteng.com/products/data_rescue.php
(Has a Free Demo to see if it could or not, but you'll need another drive to recover to).
Or FileSalvage...
http://www.subrosasoft.com/OSXSoftware/index.php?%20mainpage=product_info&productsid=1
to recover what you can.
4. Lots of G5 problems with Power Supplies & Logic Boards.

Gt683dx possible motherboard problems?

Hello,
May 2012 I bought a MSI Gt683dx laptop. My experience with this laptop has not always been positive, but now a new and even stranger problem has arrived!
In December 2012 I got a glass fiber internet connection of 100Mbps. Since my laptop is connected directly to the glass fiber modem with a cable, it will use the full internet speed. With several speed testers, I always get a download speed between 85/100 mbps.
As of yesterday however, my laptop refuses to download faster than 9Mbps. I reset the modem, switched cables and contacted the provider. They told me there was no connectivity problem at my adress. Sceptical as I was, I connected a 5 year older MSI laptop I still had laying around to the cable. To my great surprise this one did manage to pull in the full internet speed.
So, same router, same cable, but one Laptop doesnt manage to get the full internet speed while the 5 year older one does.
I used the F3 recovery function to completely reinstall my computer. Then I went to the MSI site to update my drivers. It simply refuses to update the BIOS ("not compatible with x64") and with the Realtek driver I get the "findfile" error.
I ran the speedtest again, and to my surprise; still only 9mbps.
Over the past week weeks, my computer has experienced some 'stutters', wherein the sound and image will hang and sound mechanical for a second or more, usually with an interval varying between 10 seconds and 1 minute. A restart fixes this problem (temporarily) but my tech savy friends told me that this might indicate a motherboard problem. Since this problem is now added to the list, I wonder whether they are right.
I have tried contacting the MSI customer service for problems in the past, but I want to avoid that if possible :/ the people I get on the phone barely speak Dutch or English, which makes communicating about technical problems quite daunting. I tried the email too, but I never got a single reply.
So is there someone here who can help me?

In order to update the bios you need to use the MSI flasher...
>>Use the MSI HQ Forum USB flasher<<
The stuttering is quite difficult to really diagnose without being there and seeing it. It could be a driver or software or it could be hardware. I've had all those cause stuttering in different computers I've had. That being said, if you feel there is a hardware problem, I would still contact MSI support about it and possibly get an RMA going.
>>How to contact MSI.<<

Possible motherboard or CPU malfunction

So my girlfriend's iMac has been acting really strange lately. Unfortunately, unless I know what's actually wrong, there's little I can do to help her over the phone. She lives 100+ miles from the nearest Apple store and she's out of warranty, so no help there. This also happened rather spontaneously, and she has encountered 0 issues before the symptoms listed below.
Symptom 1: Built-in iSight camera appears disconnected (neither Skype nor Photo Booth recognize it)
Solution 1: I tell my gf to restart the computer.
Symptom 2: Computer hangs on restart.
Solution 2: Reset SMC (unplug and hold power button for 5+ seconds; plug back in, restart)
Symptom 3: Computer boots, but takes 5 minutes to finally load up.
Solution 3: Verify/repair disk permissions (tons of stuff was wrong, not everything was repaired); restart computer
Symptom 4: Computer takes 5 minutes to boot again. Computer now fails to recognize both the built-in camera AND a USB printer
Against my recommendation, the computer is plugged directly into the wall with absolutely no surge protection; to make things worse, she lives in an old building with ****** wiring in a remote part of town. Also against my recommendation, she has no backup disk whatsoever, making file recovery a chore (I'm REALLY hoping there's a way to fix it that doesn't involve reinstalling the OS from scratch). Lastly, I've told her to take it in to have its innards dusted, but no such luck; there's probably a huge fur ball from her cat clogging the heat sink for all I know.
I feel this is a motherboard or CPU issue, but have no way of testing either hypothesis from 250 miles away. Anybody know what could possibly be wrong?

I am thinking it is the hard drive, have her start her computer with the original DVD that came with the system and run disk utility on the hard drive make sure all items are repaired. Also have her repair her disk permissions. She needs to purchase a external hard drive to do a time machine backup as soon as possible.

SATA cable or motherboard failure?

Hey community,
my old macbook pro 13inch, 2010 mid, 2.4ghz, 250Gb HDD broke down. Tried many different solutions to fix it, but unfortunately there was no other choice then to buy new HDD. So bought the new one, installed, changed it and installed iOS, after using it for couple hours it started to got laggy and had to force shut. After tried to turn it on, there was no HD visible, not even in the recovery mode, tried to plug it in, back and forwards many times, but still gave no results. I can hear it spinning, but it won't recognize.
Is it the sata cable that has to be changed or it is the failure of the motherboard?
Thanks for answers!

Do you have the original DVD that shipped with the computer? If so you can try booting with it. If the computer boots with the DVD it would point to the cable being damaged or loose from the logic board. If you’ve been using TimeMachine with an external hard drive (not a TimeCapsule) and if the TimeMachine drive was plugged into the computer when you upgraded to Mavericks it should have its own recovery partition so you can try restarting the computer with the TM drive connected. This could also help indicate whether it is the logic board or SATA cable. For future reference, this is also one of the reasons I like using a clone backup as a secondary backup drive because I can always boot up with it if the internal drive isn’t functional.

Windows 7 won't load properly / possible HDD failure?

Well I will start off by saying I've been having problems with this since I've bought it. It used to be under warranty and I had to ship it back twice, and I've had to do countless system recoveries but this time I'm at a loss. My current problem started about 4 days ago. I had skype downloaded, and my skype started freezing randomly, but only for 30 seconds to a minute, and then come right back to working. Then this started happening more frequently, and then it got to the point to where it wasn't just skype that would freeze, it was my computer. It must have only been explorer.exe that was freezing or something because my mouse still moved, and if I was in a skype call the skype call would work but I couldnt type or click on skype without it saying that it wasn't responding. Then yesterday that problem upgraded again to nothing working very well. My computer (again I can only assume it was explorer or something) would start up normally, and then once I got to my desktop the load light would come on my tower and freeze / slow down anything and everything. Example was I had VLC media player open watching a show and the video would freeze for 2 to 5 minutes, play for 10 seconds, then freeze again. Beforehand it was only slight lock ups, but then it became full blown lockups. Once that load light came on it stayed on and never wavered and I would be forced to restart my computer to even give it a chance to run properly for a few minutes before this same problem would occur. Yesterday however the problem upgraded once again, and my computer wouldn't even let me get to my desktop normally. I was able to load into safemode with networking to try some solutions but nothing worked. Then the hangup issue started occuring in safe mode as well, forcing me to restart again. This is where it just keeps getting worse sadly. My computer would get to the "Starting Windows" screen, sit there for a couple minutes, then maybe 1 out of 10 attempts it would get to the "Welcome" screen as if it was trying to load my desktop but never would load it, and on the other 9 attempts I didn't make it to the "Welcome" screen it just sat a black screen with the load light going and it would never do anything. My mouse has never been frozen at any point so it's not a full on freeze situation, but something isn't right. I did a sytem recovery last night, put it back once again to factory settings and it still locked up a little but nothing compared to how it had been. I turned my pc off and went to sleep, and then this morning it did the usual not getting past the "starting windows" screen. Sometimes it wouldn't even recognize my hard drive, giving me the old "insert media and boot from disc" or "No media found", I also got two errors, PXE-E61: Media test failure, check cable, and the other message was PXE-MOF: Exiting PXE ROM. Then after receiving those messages my computer would restart and give me the choice to hit a button to load from disk. Throught the course of this problem I tried startup repairs, smart tests, anti viruses, nothing did anything to help. So I decided once again it was going to be time for a system recovery, but now when I hit f11 to go into the system recovery options, all of it is blacked out. I can't even click on system recovery anymore. So at this point Windows 7 won't load at all, not even in safe mode, and I'm lucky to even be given the OPTION to start it in safe mode. Half of the time it seems my computer doesnt even recognize my harddrive, and I can't even do a system recovery or repair tools, but the repair tools didn't really do anything anyway. So I have no way to use that computer, and Im thinking it might be HDD failure but I'm not hearing any noises coming from it and my computer has always been a little slow so it's not like things have slowed down by a lot so I'm not so sure its my HDD but I have no idea what to do or where to start since I've exhausted all my of resources on trying to fix this issue myself. I know this problem is probably way too vague to try to get an accurate idea of what is wrong, but I will check back now and then and answer any questions to the best of my ability (I'm not tech savy so if you need really fancy PC information you wil most likely need to tell me how to acquire said information). I mean I guess if I have to I will get a new HDD, but that means I will most likely need to get a new OS, and I love windows 7 with all my heart and I don't want to upgrade at windows 8. I feel like it's my OS but it could very well be anything at this point.

Hi @rhhox ,
I have brought your issue to the attention of an appropriate team within HP. They will likely request information from you in order to look up your case details or product serial number. Please look for a private message from an identified HP contact. Additionally, keep in mind not to publically post ( serial numbers and case details).
If you are unfamiliar with how the Forum's private message capability works, you can learn about that here.
Regards,
George
I work for HP

W510: How to access my data from a functional hard drive after motherboard failure

I made a mistake and paid the major price .
That mistake being spilling a sugary drink on my laptop. I know, I know, my keyboard can and protect against damage from spills, but it was an entire glass. Anyway, I panicked and shut the system down and turned it upside down and removed the keyboard. And being the impatient person I am, I made what was probably the ultimate mistake. I didn't give everything adequate amount of time to dry and tried booting the system back up. There went my computer. Or at least I think.
Symptoms: It started to bootup, kept beeping, then at a certain point just shut down and wouldn't turn back on.
Anyway, I'm assuming my laptop went kaput. Now to the point of this thread. I had not undergone a recent backup and can't recall when the last backup was actually done. Assuming that my hard drive is ok, I would like to get all of my data so I saw several possible options:
-send the system to a data recovery service where I'm not going to pay below $300, but probably 2 to 3 times that
-buy an equivalent model laptop and put the HDD in there
-by an external SATA hard drive enclosure and attach it via USB to another computer
I bought an external enclosure and assembled it this evening. I had read about difficulty accessing data with a non-Lenovo system because of data encryption. I proved that out by attaching it to my work laptop (a Dell) and I couldn't access my data directories. If I have access to another Lenovo Thinkpad, will I be able to access the data if connected via USB? I'd read that I can access the hard drive contents if it is connected to another Thinkpad, but I wasn't sure if that means I have to have it interfaced via the SATA connection or if it will still work via USB.
I'll appreciate any suggestions for accessing my data.
Best Regards!
Solved!
Go to Solution.

I didn't have a password on the drive itself, but I did have a Windows password.
Connecting the drive to a Dell via SATA external usb enclosure and attempting to access the data directory gives the below prompt (See image below). I understand that I could click continue and try to gain permanent access, but I haven't attemped yet because I also don't want to permanently mess something up so that I can't access.
So this was connected to my work computer, which is a Dell. I do have access to another Thinkpad (X200 series tablet) with the same results. I'm concerned that if I do follow the steps to gain permission to the folder that the data will also be encrypted. I read at this Lenovo link http://support.lenovo.com/en_US/research/hints-or-tips/detail.page?&LegacyDocID=MIGR-69621 about full data encryption. I don't recall ever manually setting up encryption.
Alternatively, could I boot from the old drive using the X200?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks again.

Hp dv9000 possible motherboard failure

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