Electrical Issues

I am using my MacBook on an Open Ground outlet. I can be shocked when touching metal objects attached to the macbook (e.g. usb cables). Today, I noticed the cord became hot. Not warm, but so hot that I can't hold on to it. I am certain that some melting has occured. It currently is unplugged and it seems there is some damage to the actual cord. I noticed the issue when I was running Windows Vista and playing a game while the battery was charging. The Macbook is currently out of warrenty. What should I do? Shouldn't the Macbook fare fine on an open ground? Or is this a result of charge build up in the macbook? Will Apple replace the adapter?

Hi Javad,
Actually you should stop using it when you get shocked and move to other power outlet.
Look like your open ground outlet not well grounded and you can get shocked by it.
Apple should be fine with open ground outlet as long as it well grounded.
I believe you should fix the open ground outlet (if that is within your property area), and or use other good outlet.
And get yourself a new mag safe. Also check with your local authorize service center or apple store to make sure there is no harm done on your macbook.
Good Luck.

Similar Messages

Home Electricity Issues - IP Profile Lowered

Hi,
We have been experiencing some issues with the electricity in our house today. An electrician has been round and it should all be fixed first thing tomorrow morning. Because of this the home hub/Openreach modem has been on and off randomly all day...
Our IP Profile has been at around 38000 ever since we had BT Infinity installed, however today I notice it has dropped to around 23000.
How do we go about getting it put back to normal profile? It's quite a drop considering our line is capable of sustaining the higher profile, as it has for the last 3-4 months!
Many thanks

By the sound of it, it is to late for switching off. The work is finished in the morning
All the op can do is , when the work has finished to keep it running, and hope the IP profile rises. That's not guaranteed though
toekneem
http://www.no2nuisancecalls.net
(EASBF)

E530 electrical issues

This is my second E530. The first one had to be replaced because of defective touchpad and keyboard. The second one has defective touchpad again but also it has elecrtical issues. When it is plugged in and the battery is in the laptop the power light is green. This is normal. But when i unplugged the laptop and stay only with the battery the power light is still green. This is not normal. Then, if i plugged in the laptop again and shut down, the next morning i have significant battery drain. Also, i have noticed that windows 7 and power manager software have some issues when it is plugged in (and the battery is in). For example, when i unplugged, the laptop does not recognise that it has to go at lower brightness settings according to the power scheme i have. it stays solid at maximum brightness and this can change only manually. Also, the power manager icon displays only the percentage of remain battery, not the remain time.
I dont know where to find the fault. Is it battery, ac adapter, motherboard? These are not normal for a brand new laptop. It is the second inthe row defective unit. Lenovo should have discontinue edge series. Most of them have problems, bugs etc.

I forgot to say that i have by default the latest bios 2,54. I have updated power manager and power manager driver to the latest versions. The only way to stop the green light stays on is to close the laptop and put away the battery. The green then will stop but when i plugged the ac adapter again, then it will be always green even if i unplugged the ac adapter later.

Waiting for a credit to be issued for a returned device that has been returned!

Since November 12, 2013 we have been waiting for Verizon to issue a credit on a returned phone for $450. Verizon has the tracking number it was delivered to the warehouse 9/25/13...We have called numerous times at least 7 or 8 times, I have sent 16 emails, I would estimate I have spent about 9 hours on the phone with Verizon, clearly you can see my phone records and I hope you look at them. We get the same story..I am going to submit a ticket to the warehouse and you will see a credit in 72 hours...It hasn't happened yet. My husband Spoke to Debbie that assured him that she was issuing the credit while they were speaking and made an agreement that when he saw the credit issued he would pay our bill...never got the credit as promised she lied to get him off the phone. This morning my phones were shut off...spend another 1:30 of my life on the phone trying to get this straightened out...I just don't get it? How can this many employee's not know what to do or how to credit a billing issue, I've called the gal at the warehouse investigation and left her messages and no returned calls. Ive emailed this one gal over and over no response. Every employee says oh yeah we did receive the equipment the warehouse blah blah blah....at this point we have been lied to repeatedly and I have lost total trust for Verizon. As a past AT&T customer of 12 yrs I thought I would receive better service and this is terrible! 4 phones that all had electrical issues and now this...In 72 hours if I don't see a credit I will be filing a report with the FCC...I just don't have any other options at this point. I cant seem to get the attention of the person can fix this.

Well this is one of Verizon's pet scams. Its normally we have not received the device back, the item was damaged, there is water damage, you sent back an empty box.
You have one good clear option. Small claims court, you will need a copy of the tracking report, a copy or receipt for sending it back to verizon, you will need a written summary of when you called verizon, the names of the people you spoke with, and telephone numbers and email addresses of the contact people you interacted with.
You will need to pay a small filing fee to the court but include the cost in your filing. Give the court the address of your billing and or a local verizon corporate store location address in your location.
You must also send a certified return receipt requested letter to the billing address in which you dispute the $450 they claim you owe. In the letter tell verizon you will pay only the amounts not in dispute, and that they cannot dunn you or turn off your service while its being hashed out. This is a Federal Law as well as a state law in many jurisdictions.
Take them to court. Also add in any expense of time off from work by the hour in your claim. Do not arbitrate under any circumstances.
Also file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau http://www.BBB.org and the Federal Communications Commission http://www.FCC.gov
Good Luck

I have a electrical problem with my Power Mac G4

My PowerMac G4 I think it has an electrical issue when when I boot up everything starts fine and I get to the desktop everything seems to be working OK but after a few minutes I hear the hard drive click off and then the hard drive restarts itself but the computer completely freezes up so the first thing I checked was the hard drive and did a diagnostic check and the hard drive is functioning properly so then I checked the wiring and everything looked to be OK so then I tried leaving the side door open and turning the computer back on and the computer works perfectly dozen freeze up and the hard drive doesn't click off so I think it might be overheating so I removed the heat sink and put more thermal paste on the heat sink and it still seems to have the same problem with the side door closed all the fans are running normally I've taken the computer completely apart and checked every piece and I don't know what else to check because inside it looks all normal the only other thing I can think of is that when I close the door there some kind of wiring that might be faulty and shorting out and the computer inside somewhere but if I leave the door open it runs perfectly and it doesn't freeze up if anybody else has any suggestions please let me know I've run out of ideas

BDAqua wrote:
so I removed the heat sink and put more thermal paste on the heat sink
Wonder if it was done properly?
How to apply thermal compound

HP 4120 Lync Phone Network issues

Hello Lync community!
We have a 2013 deployment running HP 4120 desk phones. I'd like to see if anyone else is having similar problems to ours. First things first: HP Lync Edition phone is manufactured by SNOM. While support/warranty comes from HP the packaging
materials on repaired units say SNOM. With this fact out of the way let me tell you what we are seeing. On initial roll-out the failure rate "out of the box" was about 5%. The downstream port would not function - and we needed it
to connect the workstations in the offices. The lights on the port would flash, but once you flipped the phone over and made a few calls the port would start acting up. On some phones the port would just go dead, on others it would come in and
out - causing endless frustration. You can typically fix the condition temporarily by unplugging and plugging back in the cable in the downstream/PC port. Needles to say these were sent back to HP for repair. By the end of 1st year about
another 5% of the phones had to be replaced due to the same issues. Initially we thought that some type of electrical issue on the phone side was at play - perhaps a poorly soldered connection, a batch of bad/loose network jack - something that has to
be addressed on the manufacturing side of things. Since then also learned that phones themselves can enter a state in which they remain powered on but claim no network availability. The phones are all powered via PoE - so they are connected, but
somehow they claim the lack of access to a network at an Ethernet/Level 2 level. A phone reboot fixes the problem. This makes us thing that the issue is not in wiring, but in some low level firmware on the phone - not the WinCE 6.0 the phone is
running - but maybe something else. Phones run the latest UC software available from Microsoft. We have some Polycom VVX phones in identical setup - those have no issues with the network.
Anyone seen this? Share your experience - let us know what you've done. We have no issues with phone provisioning, dropped calls or unexpected sign-outs. Lync farm running latest CU as well.

After writing the post above I did another experiment with the phone.
Took it apart to see if I can notice something obvious on the PCB - noting there - all is firmly attached and well soldered. Used a magnifying glass with high magnification to verify that there are no cracks in the solder where RJ-45 jack attaches
the to the PCB. Put it back together - plugged in the network cable. Phone boots, asks me to sign in - as I start the process and begin handling the phone I get disconnected from the network.
The error message that the phone shows:
"The Network cable was not detected. Please check that your cable is connected to the network port and that you have a network connection."
In this state the lights on the network port are off - they are not blinking. So the PoE is delivered but the interface is down. Looking at the port status on the switch shows that PoE is "delivering" but the link status is "down".
All you have to do is firmly press the network cable back into the phone and it starts working. Go figure what's at play.

Electric charge on Macbook Pro casing

I just notice that when I rn my fingers across the casing on either side of the trackpad on my Macbook Pro 17" I can feel a small current passing through the casing. This only happens when the AC adapter is plugged in and charging the laptop. Anyone else notice this? I have searched the posts but could not find an explaination.

I have this issue too, only when I plug in the UAE (Dubai). We have 110V three prong adapters there, and still, it buzzes and sometimes shocks me like a mad girlfriend.
I called Apple Care, added it to my list of issues, and they're sending me a new one. Although some say it's not a problem, it most definitely is. After my MagSafe sparks, battery grows fat and computer vibrates from electric currents, there is most certainly a defect w/ my unit.
Sorry I can't help you w/ your issue. One thing to note. Once I got back to Toronto, the electrical issues stopped, but suddenly, for about a week, there was a nasty scraping sound coming from behind the keyboard. It was about 5x louder than the whine and sounded like a hockey player sprinting down the ice.

That darn tabbing issue....

Hi Gang,
Using Cap 4 for an interactive CRM sim - lots of tabbing involved. However, even after inserting the seamless tabbing line in the script - no good - it still grabs the browser. Any ideas. Copy of the script object section below.
writedocument('<object classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://fpdownload.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=8,0,0,0" width="1" height="1" align="middle"> \n'+
'        <param name=movie value="' + strURLBase + strExitFile + strURLParams + '">\n'+
'        <param name=quality value=high> \n'+
'        <param name=menu value=false> \n'+
' <param name="SeamlessTabbing" value="false">'+
'        <param name=loop value=0> \n'+
'        <embed src="' + strURLBase + strExitFile + strURLParams + '" pluginspage="https://www.macromedia.com/shockwave/download/download.cgi?P1_Prod_Version=ShockwaveFlash" quality=high type="application/x-shockwave-flash" name="Captivate" width="1" height="1" align="middle" swLiveConnect="true">\n'+
'        </embed> \n'+
'      </object>');
Cheers,
Happy

Hey Cosmic,
I've been reading up on the CRT electrical issues... Some say that there is "probably" a (resistor?) that automatically discharges the CRT... but maybe not...
Yup there's supposed to be bleed resistors on the CRTs but sometimes they're defective.
One "easy fix" solution I read about was to get a power cord,.....This would thus ground the eMac, without allowing any power "in".
Sorry that's complete nonsense AFAIK. Read this:
http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/monfaq.htm#monsafd
The section on:
"Safe discharging of capacitors in TVs and video monitors"
When you do this make sure you ground to the frame of the eMac and not the heat sinks. (Did that, killed the Mac's high voltage driver chip dead!)
Here we're only worried about the anode voltage to the CRT and once grounded I use a clip lead to ground the anode to frame while I'm working on it.
I also generally ground any large capacitors I see even if they're low voltage ones.
On the other hand if you avoid touching any parts of the high voltage section that's also good practice. This even if you've grounded the anode. If you're installing a new optical drive you can easily do that. It's all on the opposite side.
Richard

Check your electrical status

Hi, I just wanted to write this post for if someone founds it useful. Since I put together my computer about 4 months ago, I've been having all sorts of problems. Constant lockups, random restarts and things like that... ah, and a lot of temperature problems.
This weekend, while making some housekeeping for change my desk (the old one just couldn't hold everything), I found a faulty electrical power cable from my speakers. Anyway, I changed the cable and the computer just started working great!!! I've been testing my computer all weekend and no problems at all!!!
I'm no expert in electrical issues, but even my Home Theater started working fine (without pops and crackles), and even as I know that this is not a great solution for the problems I've been reading about in this forum, maybe would be important to check the regulators, no breaks and even the cables (mine was shorting out causing some problem with the PSU)
Hope this post helps someone other than me... This computer just got great (and to think that I maybe clean installed the thing more than 6 times)

Well Thats Good that you Found the problem ....Isn't that a Great Fealing when you realize, that it is Not a Major Problem ...Thank you for the Update.............Sean REILLY875

Msi ge620 instability/won't turn on

Hello,
here's my story and i hope someone can help me out!! because ITS VERY COMPLICATED! and i cannot diagnose the main issue!!!!!
i have been having an issue with my msi ge620 for almost 3 months now, at first i thought it was a heat problem ,and then i started to believe its an electrical issue .and now i think its the motherboard dead or dying .. but sometimes my notebooks turns on and can work normal and get into games but might turn off after 10 min or 1 hour gameplay despite that the heat doesnot pass 85C , but usually in winter is less than that
my current warranty is invalid and 2 years already passed this summer, because i bought this notebook from kuwait , and i am currently in egypt, i couldnot send it back to msi for maintenance via shipment in order to check the issue,
because firstly i dont know how exactly to send it back there or to europe etc..
and secondly cairo is not a safe place to do so..or to search etc and to ask around despite that i asked most technician or electronic shops and i am not certain if there is msi in egypt !? ,, and i dont want to handle my laptop to a technician here because i had alot of problems with them and especially stolen hardware or replacement of hardwares without notifying me .. and especially with gaming consoles..
and thirdly i couldnt travel back earlier this year because of university etc,, anyways it doesnt matter because i already opened the notebook so i thought of seeking help here from experienced people.
this whole issue started when i was playing guildwars 2 suddenly during the game my pc shuts down, so i realized it was a heat problem and then
i did some googling early that month and believed it was really a heat problem especially that i could see dust inside the fan and couldnt reach it with my electronic vacuum and was worried about the warranty if i opened it but latter that month i realized i couldnt send it back or travel etc.. so i have opened it and started cleaning it and of course it was full of dust, and i did it by carefully watching videos and reading guides etc,,, and i am certain i did it correctly it worked perfectly afterwards with no issue at all FOR ANOTHER MONTH~! and also to note that i used to open my old desktop and replace parts or cleaning it but never did it before with laptops
and that made me realize it was a heat problem
and then later that month the issue reappeared so i went to clean it back again and it worked fine but afterwards it reappeared AGAIN and started to shut down! but this time when i opened it , it had no dust at all! so i gave it a rest, and i realized my pc was shutting down only after 6-8 hours of gameplay! and i have to mention its hot here , but i usually play with my home fan on or with my air conditioner on to cool the room
so i started giving it rest each 2 hours, and then one day it stopped responding and it wont turn on and i knew this would happen sooner or later..., so i didnt use it for a while maybe 3 days or so ,
and the next day it started again after holding shut down button for 30 second!!! i was really starting to get angry, so i did google search and i found that some guy had the same issue as me and when he replaced his electrical cable cord it worked normal, so i started to check how i can order from outside for replacement particularly from usa.. and i found a company called avadvancemax and rakkuten and also amazon that has a replacement for my discontinued msi product but the problem it kinda takes over a 1 month for the order to appear in egypt and i am certain that it will take longer with whats happening in the streets, so for the last two weeks it appeared that i cannot order from outside for certain issues , so i started to try to repair it until i can place my order for replacement,
this is what i have tried so far and it kinda worked out well but for a while only
hold power button for 30 seconds. and this brought my notebook back to life
remove power plug for 1minute then try again
remove li-on battery for 1 minute then put it back in
start the notebook by battery and then put the plug in and it worked
play with battery only or use laptop with battery only and recharge with cable cord
and this made me believe it was electrical problem , especially that my plug looks like one from UK which is usually used in kuwait and i convert it to european standard plug which is used in egypt
BUT! it only works for my notebook if i want to use the internet or watch videos etc,,, IF i decided to play a game such as the last remnant it shuts down, but if i play a very old game like final fantasy vii it works without shutting down .
and yesterday i played the game such as last remnant for almost 45 minute to 1 and half hour in very high graphics despite that its 2009 game and then it shuts down ,
i also bought a cooling pad just recently and started using it whenver i used the notebook , and notebook fan inside is working perfectly
and i also thought of replacing thermal paste but i am not sure if that will help since it wont turn on , and i am not sure if formating the pc would help, since it usually starts and shuts down on windows logo but now it wont turn on at all
and what made me post this today after all this experimenting and instability etc.... ,
is because;
today i tried to start my notebook from the battery and it wont start all and neither from the main cord plug
and when it starts its shuts down very quickly less than seconds,, it used to happen before but usually it would start if i used the battery only!
and now when my battery is plugged in , and the cablecord is also plugged it , it seems that the battery is charging ...
i am really sorry for the long post but anyways as you can see its really weird and complicated issues, and i never overclocked it but i usually play in high graphics etc.. and maybe it consumed too much power from nvidia perhaps ? i usually use it for maximum graphics and sometimes i use it for high performance only
i cant specify my notebook nor i can get dxdiag because my pc wont turn on but this is my notebook copied from msi website
CPU   - Intel® Core™ i7-2630QM Processor (6M Cache, 2.00 GHz)
OS   - Windows 7
Chipset   - Intel® HM65
Memory   - DDR3 1066/1333 MHz
LCD Size   - 15.6" Full HD (1920x1080) or HD (1366x768) LED backlight
Graphics   - Nvidia GeForce GT 540M + intel video card integrated
Graphics VRAM   DDR3 1GB
HDD (GB)   500GB / 640GB / 750GB
Optical Drive   Blu-ray / DVD Super Multi
Audio   7.1
Webcam   HD type (30fps@720p)
Card Reader   SD(XC/HC)/MMC/MS(PRO)/xD
LAN   10/100/1000
Wireless LAN   802.11 b/g/n (Intel or Atheros)
Bluetooth   Bluetooth v2.1 + EDR
D-Sub (VGA)
1
HDMI
1 (v1.4)
USB 2.0 port
1
USB 3.0 port
2
Mic-in/Headphone-out
1/1
Express Card
N/A
Keyboard
103 keys
AC Adapter
120W
Battery
6 cells
Dimension
383 x 249.5 x 37.6~32.3mm
Weight (KG)   2.4
*** note:
the same issue happened to my xbox 360 and it completed wont turn on and the issue by then was the cable cord , and then it worked out well after i replaced it and afterward my xbox 360 died... despite the new cable cord
and another note is that here in egypt and especially before the military coup that happened, usually the electricity here turns off suddenly and it really made me worried that it caused both my pc and xbox to fuse .. because they both faced the same issue..
and i never had this kind of issue in my 10 years old desktop in kuwait which is really making me believe its electricity issue
or maybe motherboard died..
and thank you in advance!

Quote
hello? firstly why i cannot edit or delete posts?
Quote from: Forum Rules
Users are permitted to modify their own posts for 180 minutes after posting
Quote
now after the testing, i noticed my laptop won't turn on even with the battery only and doing the 30second shutdown rest
you mean its doing at his own 30 seconds On, then shutdown for 30 seconds and repeatable in that way?
that hapends if you use battery only?
or its doing the same if you leave ac charger only?

I want to make a copy of my Time Capsule backups

Good day.
I have 2 directors with Macbook Pro's. They both back up via Time Machine to a Time Capsule.
Basically they wanted me to in a sense 'archive' a backup from time to time of the Time Capsule...the reason for this:
1. The time capsule automatically deletes old information when the drive gets full
2. They want a 'monthly' backup of the backups on the Time Capsule in case the capsule crashes tomorrow and one of the MAC the next day, they want to be able to get another capsule, copy the archive back and restore from it.
I know this seems very improbable but I am in South Africa and with the power / electricity issues we have here, I have seen my fair share of the weird and simply "whats the changes" scenarois to understand their concern.
All the posts I've come across all explain how to MOVE the time machine backups to a new destination - to create a new time capsule or time machine backup to a larger drive, etc etc. All I want to do is simply copy whatever is on the time capsule to another drive, but keep using the time capsule as per normal..kind of like a simple file copied backup of whatever is on the capsule.
Let me know if this is possible? My best guess would be to follow the process of changing the backup as per the posts I have come across to point to a new drive...let it copy, and then point the backup back to the original time capsule again.
My only fear is that its going to them do the copy process twice...which when 1Tb could be laboursome to say the least...especially to and from a time capsule on a 10/100 network!
Thanks!

My best guess would be to follow the process of changing the backup as per the posts I have come across to point to a new drive...let it copy, and then point the backup back to the original time capsule again.
My only fear is that its going to them do the copy process twice...which when 1Tb could be laboursome to say the least...especially to and from a time capsule on a 10/100 network!
Thanks!
Mountain Lion allows TM to backup to two different locations.. You can use the TC and a USB disk plugged into the TC.
It can then swap itself around or you can physically move disks around when you want to retain data.
Your guess.. of using the copy the backup to another location will also work.
Let me suggest it is no bad idea to backup.. a disk image with a different utility.. superduper does disk images only for free.. and you can do it from disk utility itself. A disk image can be far easier to recover from then TM which can be several hours and even then lots of stuff seems to need manual moving around.

Intel iMac stuck at desktop screen, no menu bar, no finder, spinning ball

Hi, I've just run into a serious problem with my 24" Intel iMac not starting up properly. At first it was getting stuck on the gray screen, then I got it to the blue screen, and now finally I can get it as far as loading the desktop picture, the cursor comes up and is responsive to the mouse, but has now become the spinning beachball. There is no menu bar, and the finder will not load. It's been in this state for about ten minutes. What I did to get it to this state is:
1. Disconnect all peripherals. I'm using an Apple wireless keyboard and mighty mouse, too.
2. Reset the PRAM.
3. Reset the PMU.
4. Used the installation disc to run Apple Hardware Test (the short version) successfully...no problems.
5. Used the installation disc to run Disk First Aid. Corrected a minor problem with the file structure.
6. Used the installation disc to run Disk First Aid. Repaired permissions.
7. Performed a Safe Boot, and got to the log-in screen, did not log in, but restarted normally as suggested in one of the Apple support articles.
8. Am now staring at my desktop picture without the menu bar or the Finder, but the spinning beachball is chugging along and is responsive to my mouse.
If it is of any help, I've noticed for several months that the computer would occasionally fail to wake from sleep, and I'd need to force a shut down by holding the power button for several seconds. Could this have been a precursor to the current problem?
At this point, I'm not certain which version of 10.5 I have, because I can't check. But I've installed all the Apple updates that have come through, so I must be at the current version of 10.5. I can't remember exactly how much RAM I have installed, either, but it might be 3 GB. I installed a second memory module at the time of purchase, which I bought from Crucial.com.
I'm having to write this on my ancient PowerBook G4, which is still performing admirably under OS X 10.4.11. Thanks for any help or suggestions anyone can provide! : )

It appears to have been a short of some sort on my power supply...it blew a capacitor somehow, though I don't know how/when that happened. Computer is on a surge protector, and generally sleeps during day while I'm away, but no power outages or other electrical issues occurred while I was out that I'm aware of.
Anyway, I had a new power supply installed by an Apple certified technician...opted not to do it myself...and discovered that the HD is perfectly fine. No data loss. Phew! Just two weeks w/o my computer, and no way to recover backup files on Time Capsule in the meantime.
Thanks for all the help and advice!

Why did my charger already go bad..bought another one and it went bad..now phone will not charge..only had it 2 months..what a disappointment so far..should have stayed with Apple..would like to get my money back. Terrible experience so far.

Why did my charger from Verizon already go bad..bought another one and it went bad..now the phone will not charge..what a disappointment and a hassle..should have stuck with Apple..only had the phone 2 months. Hope they will exchange it!!!!!!!!!!!!

This is either a Phone issue or an Electrical issue in your home.! when charging Do you always use the same electrical outlet? or did you try others..
You will know or should know if there are any issues with your other Electronics.. that you Plug into it..
If it is the s5 which it sounds like it could be then the Local Verizon store at there Discretion will determined if replacement is needed you have a 1 year Manufactures Warranty that covers for things like what your Describing I would take it too your local store see if they'll get you a Replacement or you may have to go through Samsung..
But I would Try another OUTLET just to see if your phone charges with it.. And Good Luck b33

HP 2575 will NOT print in Colour

Hello,
I have an HP 2575 All-in-One printer,originally it printed OK,but,it was printing more in colour than black/white,even any text,somehow,I played in the setup and managed to print ONLY in black/white,now,I can't print anything in colour,I've replaced the colour cartridge #95 with a new one,with no luck,I've also replaced # 98 (black/white) cartridge with # 99 as per manual to get more colour,unfortunately after the money I spent on the cartridges,still unable to print in colour.
The printer works well for scanning/copying/printing and etc.but,all in black,does anyone know if there's a software/hardware switch to turn the colours back on?? can someone HELP please,I would hate to throw this printer out and ending up buying a new one.
Thanks to All
Regards

The most likely cause for no color at all would be the #95 cartridge. The printheads are built in to the cartridge, replacing the cartridge would replace the printheads. One thing to try would be to gently blot the printhead on a damp tissue. A light smear of color or no color at all would indicate an issue. A working cartridge would show a strong blot of cyan, magenta and yellow. Are there any indications of color at all on the page? It is also possible (but less likely) that there is an electrical issue in the drive electronics. Even a tiny bit of color would indicate the electronics are likely OK.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
If your problem is solved please click the "Accept as Solution" button ------------V
If my answer was helpful please click the "Thumbs Up" to say "Thank You"--V

HP Officejet 7210 problem

The alignment pages look ok, have cleaned the print heads twice. Printer prints only half of every other line in document. Solutions?

ccornsilk wrote:
[snip] Every other line is half missing or faded. I didn't try cleaning the contacts yet, but as I said, I have now inserted 3 new cartridges. One that was purchased just today. Ok, it is not an HP cartridge. It is a refilled Office Max cartridge, but is that really going to make a difference? I know, it is probably your job to say "of course". [snip]
I do not work for HP (or anyone else for that matter), I am a volunteer here, so the following is not my job but is my experience: reman cartridges have been used up, returned to somewhere to be refilled, tested and repackaged. Along the way they are subject to various handling issues and the refilling and testing process can vary greatly in quality. See here for a study by Quality Logic (commissioned by HP) regarding the reliability of refilled cartridges. See especially Graph 2 on page 4.
That said, for an issue where a regular block of nozzles are not firing properly the most likely cause is not a clogged printhead but rather an electrical issue between the printer and cartrdige or an electrical fault with the printhead. Try printing a self test report as follo0ws (directiona re for my Officejet 7410, the 7210 should be similar): press setup, scroll to print reports, scroll to self test report and press OK. The resulting test page will include a nozzle pattern with a rectangular outline and solid well defined lines. If there are random misdirected or partially complete short segments (the ones about 1/8" long) this would indicate a problem with the printhead nozzles that may be corrected with nozzle cleaning. If there are missing nozzles in regular patterns then the issue is electrical, and it might be corrected by cleaning the contacts on the printer and the cartridge.
Bob Headrick, HP Expert
I am not an employee of HP, I am a volunteer posting here on my own time.
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Electrical Issues

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