GT80 Titan Cooling Fans are on frequently than before

I just purchased the new 18 inch Titan and love it. However, I just started noticing the that the fans that use to come on infrequently and very quiet are now coming on more frequently. I have a cooling fan that sits underneath laptop there is nothing blocking or constricting the air ways. The laptop is turned off longer as I returned to a longer work day, and the temp in the home is in the low to mid 60s.
Is this something I should be worrying about? I have been frequently using the air duster on the laptop. Oh, I have only had the new monster machine for about a month.

Hi, how about updating BIOS and EC firmware to latest version?
Also maybe you have installed some resident programs in the background? Anti-virus and Windows auto update would also work in the background.
You can try to recover the OS to factory default and observe its status.
Using Shift feature to switch to Green mode might do some help when you only at office mode.

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How many cooling fans are in 13" MacBook Pro retina?

I just got a late 2013 13" MacBook Pro with retina display and I'm wondering how many cooling fans are in the machine. I've noticed when I use iTunes to play music/movies or use the iTunes visualizer, it gets hot. I've seen the videos on the retinas and I've notived that the 15" model has two and I can't find any videos or pictures indicating whether the 13" has one or two. I know that the openings on the side are to bring in air and then pushes it out where the screen and the keyboard meet. I notice a lot of hot air coming out more towards the right of the machine than the left. I had a mid 2012 non-retina Pro but I had it replaced as it had too many issues and I know when I used it, it didn't get as hot when I did this stuff. I'm just making sure in case it's an issue, even thought I got this new MacBook on Monday 6/9/14. I'm also guessing it heats up faster since its a smaller machine and the components are a lot closer. And I understand that playing games or doing something that requires a lot of processing or graphics power will cause the machine to heat up since it's requiring so much from the machine. Like I said, I want to avoid having issues with this one. My last MacBook had three logic boards, two hard drives, hard drive cable, hard drive bracket, and clam shell replaced in less than a year of purchase in September 2013. When the hard drive crashed last week for no apparent reason last week, I took it to Apple on Monday this week and they finally made the choice to replace it completely and I upgraded to a retina just by paying the difference.

This is my mac's info. I got it as a gift from australia. Initial 3 months it gave me a superb service, but recently it's having a major overheating issue,it shoots up up to 87 degrees. Is it possible that any other components are damaged somehow? Usually the temperature shoots up while I play online streamings.

Reports are runinng slower than before...

I notice that my reports are running slower than before and realized that nothing interms of data volume or dimension members has changed.i checked the logfile and found that no one ran calculation.
my team suggested to check the below things in the following
1)run a maxl comment to see if the database is fragmented.
2)check when was the last time the application was stopped
3)checking the data cache setting
4)check the commit - level setting
I think "Data cache setting" is not required to check as the data volume is not changed.Can any one sugegsts the best possible 2 ways from the above STEPS

I think you have arrived at the correct conclusions, by jumping or otherwise....
Looks like its maybe his 3rd or 4th recent thread along these lines rather than 2nd:
Re: Need clarification on the Hyperion stuff
Reports are runinng slower than before...
clarify on fragmentation
Re: Valid methods to back up ASO database
If only user8842356 could grasp the art of the Search functionality, the universe would be a happier place.

My macbook pro keeps zapping me. even when the charger is not plugged in, my hands keep feeling tingly and the fans are running louder than usual

over the last two days since i updated my software, my laptop seems slower, the fans are running louder, and i keep feeling mild shocks (even without the charger). my hands feel really tingly and a little sore. what is going on?

cheesecakeyumm,
have you tried resetting your MacBook Pro’s System Management Controller? (I don’t know if that would have any effect against mild shocks, though.)

Satellite A100-773 - cooling fans are not spinning

Hello,
My notebook fans are not spinning at all,
I installed speed fan and it does not even recognize the fans, the temperatures are 60-70 degrees, but when I stressed the laptop to 80 degrees the "emergency" fan start very low until it went down from 80.
Does it have to be hardware problem or because the fan did actually work it might be software issue? Can someone guide me where to look?
Thx in advanced
Yoni

You should definitely check the options in the Toshiba power saver (if preinstalled and available on you notebook).
But to be honest I dont see any serious problems with your notebook.
If your notebook doesnt overheat then the fans work fine.
With overheating I mean a suddenly shut downs. In such case the notebook would shut down to prevent the hardware from damage.
But it looks like your notebook runs ok However, you could check if an BIOS update (if available) would increase the fans performance and sensibility.
Bye

I have noticed lately that Firefox crashes a lot more frequently than before. Why? I am careful to install all Firefox updates.

Firefox has been crashing on many sites, not just Facebook. I started using Firefox years ago because of spamming issues with email. Now I get more spam than ever before and many websites crash while on them. I update the Firefox whenever there is an update. If you can't stabilize Firefox, I will be forced to go back to Internet Explorer which I do NOT like.

See:
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Preferences_not_saved
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Preferences+are+not+saved
It is possible that there is a problem with the file(s) that store the extensions registry.
Delete the files extensions.* (e.g. extensions.sqlite, extensions.ini, extensions.cache) and compatibility.ini in the Firefox profile folder to reset the extensions registry.
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Profiles
New files will be created when required.
See "Corrupt extension files":
*http://kb.mozillazine.org/Unable_to_install_themes_or_extensions
*https://support.mozilla.com/kb/Unable+to+install+add-ons
If you see disabled, not compatible, extensions in "Tools > Add-ons > Extensions" then click the Tools button at the left side of the Search Bar (or click the "Find Updates" button in older Firefox versions) to do a compatibility check or see if there is a compatibility update available.

Homepage startup on Firefox and other browsers are too slow than before.

Hi,
Whenever I go into the homepage at Firefox it loads it really fast. I was in a site today and found this program called Hide my IP or some related application. I wanted to try it out. I did and my internet was then slow, so I decided to uninstall it after unhiding it. Ever since I uninstalled it, my Firefox takes about a long time to load the homepage, however, after the homepage was done it loads every other page I go into just fine like normal. The only thing is bothering me is that Firefox takes a long time to get to the home page but seems to load everything else fine. Notice, I did not say Firefox is taking a long time to start up. I tried different browsers, disabled any existing proxy servers, and ran malware and antivirus scans, but the problem still persists. I have also cleared cache with Firefox and CCleaner and have restarted my router, but the problem still persists.

i have problem too
i know im use many addons but they must be not the problem on the future because that addons is high Necessary plz fix that on next version of firefox
thanks,

Y510p Ultimate Cooling Mods Revealed...Unshroud your cooling fans!

I cant really speak to the quality of fans that Lenovo has chosen for these laptops. If they are poor quality then they will fail like your brothers did. The manufacturer creates the cooling profile to provide adequate cooling for most situations with minimal noise. Noise is always a bigger concern than fan longevity. My script should work on that machine, as long as the program is named Energy Management, and the dust removal start button uses the same hidden name "DustStart" and after the process completes, an "OK" button appears. Does it look like this?

If you own a Y510p, you should take a look under the cooling Vent. A large part of the cooling fans are shrouded by unnecessary plastic that can be removed (carefully) to increase their efficiency.                                                                                                                                                                                                            The air vent/filter is attached to the bottom cover with 16 little metal tabs that are bent over to hold it in place. Just unbend them and pop it out. Take note of where these tabs go through the plastic, you don't want to remove the filter mounting holes! Now mark where you want to cut. Protect the bottom finish with tape and start grinding. I covered the ram vent with tape to prevent material from clogging it and marked the location of a couple mounting holes that I wanted to avoid.The finished result is a beautifully unshrouded set of cooling fans.  I usually leave the dust filter off because I am using it as a desktop with an external monitor. If it did start to fill with dust, this thing is easy to take apart and any place dust could accumulate is easily accessible for cleaning.CAUTION! With the dust filter off, the unshrouded fans are susceptible to damage. Install the filter when transporting! I normally take a very scientific approach to cooling experiments, but I was in a hurry to play a few new games I got and did not record any "Before Temps" but I remember hitting something like 91C cpu before this mod. Now the hottest it gets is 80C(with vent filter off)... Still too hot for my liking, So I wrote the following script to run the "Dust Removal" utility continuously. As far as I know, this is the first time this cooling method has been used on the Y510p. There is no other way that I am aware of (short of hacking into the fan wiring) to control the cooling fan speed. INSTRUCTIONS:****This only works for English at the moment**** I may rewrite it to be universal if it helps someone. To run this, download AutoHotkey (a great program to have if you do any repetitive tasks on the computer) at http://www.autohotkey.com/ Run the program and right click the tray icon (green "H"). Select "Edit This Script" and delete everything and paste in my code (from the spoiler below). Save the file and right click the tray icon again, Select "Reload this Script"                                                                                                                                             I programmed it with a hotkey to launch the script. With AutoHotkey running, you can press Control+Alt+F to start the script. This launches the Dust Removal program. The cancel button will not stop the process, only clicking the X in the top corner of Energy Management will stop it. You can leave the script running and whenever you want to start it you can just single click the Lenovo Energy Management tray icon.
^!f::
IfWinExist Energy Management
   WinActivate
else
   Run "C:\Program Files (x86)\Lenovo\Energy Management\Energy Management.exe"
Loop {
     Sleep 3000
     ControlGet bEnabled, Enabled,, Energy Management
     If bEnabled
          ControlClick, OK, Energy Management
else
       ControlClick, DustStart, Energy Management
ControlClick, DustStart, Energy Management
return

G6 1c58ca laptop want to replace cooling fan and copper part

i have probelm with cooling fan being really loud and making way too much vibration that actually numbs my hands while using wireless keyboard on same desk. so, i have taken apart the laptop to clean the cooling fan area with compressed air, and assembled it again, and ran the laptop.
a littble improvement but still same problem.
so i came to comclusion that the hardware part itself is the problem and i want to replace it.
so my question is where can i find or buy the cooling fan and copper colored line that is connected to cooling fan?

looked at amazon but they only had coolingfan part not the copper colored line.

3-day-old 13.3" MBP with rough sounding cooling fan

Hi all,
I just purchased a new MBP with retina, 13" 3 GHZ Core i7. I should note that I'm a replacing a similar, 13"MBP (retina) that was stolen from me. The new machine is awesome. However, the cooling fan is much louder than my previous machine. It's not extremely obnoxious, but noticeably louder than the last unit. It basically sounds like the fan has a bad bearing or something. Is this something Apple will look at in regards to repair? I don't want it to become a much bigger problem, a short while down the road. I purchased the machine on the 4th.
Thanks!

If you bought it from Apple, you have up to 14 days from receipt to return or exchange it.
After that, it is a repair problem, with its possible associated downtime.
Make an appointment at your local Apple store, if available, as soon as possible. Your serial number or product type will allow you to book the appointment online. Refusing to provide one of these will get you a never-ending run-around.

My laptops cooling fan and hinge are broken. if i were to get a new computer and activate photoshop

my laptops cooling fan and hinge are broken. if i were to get a new computer and activate photoshop on it, should i worry about how many times i have activated photoshop? Is there a limit to how many times i can download photoshop?

Hi Pinrose,
Welcome to Adobe Forums.
You can use the same subscription on 2 machines. If you want to use it on a 3rd machine you can deactivate
Photoshop from this machine. Please follow the below article on how to deactivate.
http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/activation-deactivation-products.html
Thanks

Has anyone experienced wrist pain with new mac computer...? if so what are suggestions other than warm up and cool down exercises..**

Has anyone experienced wrist pain with new mac computer...? if so what are suggestions other than warm up and cool down exercises..**

Very good advice but no one is asking for medical advice.... Was wondering if anyone had any ergonomic suggestions that may have worked for them.. ??

My Titan died!!! Does the GT80 Titan have a reset switch?

Greetings,
When I purchased my GT80 Titan notebook a few weeks ago, I knew that it didn't have a user-removable battery. But I was shocked that I couldn't find a reset switch when I needed one!
After working late Friday night, I turned off my Titan. The next morning on Saturday I tried to turn it back on but nothing happened. Nothing lit up. The display was dark, the power button stayed dark, the keyboard was dark and the WiFi, Power and SSD/HD LEDs along the front were all dark.
I had been using the AC adapter Friday and the battery was fully charged when I shut the Titan down that night. The AC adapter had been connected all night and was on and working now. The Titan had also been connected to my network via gigabit ethernet cable.
Since it had rained Friday night, I wondered if there had been any electric surges or if static had built up inside the notebook. I doubted the AC adapter would be the source because it was plugged into a full sine-wave UPS and was well protected from any irregularities on the power lines. That left the ethernet cable which connected to a router in my cable modem as a possible source.
There was just one other possibility (that I could think of): a defective lid switch. If the lid switch had failed, my Titan might "think" the lid is closed even when it is not. This could also prevent it from turning on. I hoped this wasn't the case because my Titan was not even 2 weeks old and had been handled like a baby. I expected more robust construction for a flagship product like this.
Since it was Saturday, I couldn't get help from MSI. The problem was: I needed my Titan to finish a job that weekend. What to do?
Normally, the first thing to do would be to unplug the notebook. Remove its battery. Press and hold the power button for 10-30 seconds to discharge any static present. Wait a few more minutes to allow any energized capacitors on the motherboard to "loose" their energy. Then re-install the battery, hook up the AC and try to start it again. This usually solves the static problem.
But that's a non-starter with the Titan because you can't remove the battery. So I hunted for a reset switch. You know the kind: a tiny hole through which you insert an unbent paperclip to press a tiny button which temporarily disconnects the battery from the motherboard. But I couldn't find one. The only paperclip hole I could find was the one in the blu-ray drive (to mechanically eject the tray).
I thought: "Maybe a key combination will do a reset." So I tried pressing and holding the Power, GPU and Fan buttons in various combinations but they didn't seem to do anything. Finally, out of ideas, I did what I didn't want to do and started to open the case of my Titan.
I removed the bottom panel (12 screws) and top panel and carefully examined both sides of the motherboard as best I could, looking for a reset switch---but never found one.
Next, I carefully examined the battery cables (left front corner when viewed from the bottom). Normally, you have to remove the left fan and GPU heat diffuser in order to access the battery cable connector on the motherboard. This would be a major job that I wasn't willing to undertake. And this is the only way to disconnect the battery as far as I can tell.
But it looked like there was enough room to disconnect the battery cable without removing the fan or heat diffuser. Sure enough, with care and a thin flat-blade screwdriver, I was able to push the connecter away from the motherboard, removing it. Mission accomplished---battery disconnected!!!
Next, I pressed and held the power button for 60 seconds (with all the trouble this took---I wanted to be sure I discharged the static). Then I let my Titan sit for over 40 minutes with the battery disconnected so there would be plenty of time for an residual energy to dissipate from the capacitors on the motherboard.
At last, it was time for reassembly. It was trickier to reconnect the battery connecter than to disconnect it. You have to be very careful not to push on any wires---just push on the plastic part of the connector with the screwdriver. Once you get the connector aligned properly with its socket on the motherboard, it will slide in easily.
Then I replaced the bottom and top covers and tried to turn on my Titan. It still wouldn't start. Next, I connected the AC adapter and, Voila!, the power button worked and it started. As soon as Windows had booted up, I checked the battery's power level. It was at 98%---almost a full charge just as I had expected.
I was very glad to resurrect my Titan on Saturday when MSI tech support wasn't available. And, any time rain is in the forecast, I'll be careful to disconnect my ethernet cable after I've turned off my Titan. But I was very angry at not finding a reset switch of any kind. Surely this notebook has one and I just didn't see it. Who would build a computer device of any kind with a non-removable battery and fail to provide a reset switch. It's unthinkable to me.
So I have to think that there must be some easier way to "reset" a GT80 Titan if it ever visits static twilight land again. If someone reading this topic can contribute some information, it would be greatly appreciated.
WARNING: What I did to my Titan (taking it apart and disconnecting the battery) is NOT recommended for novice users. This requires great care because many of its components are highly susceptible to static damage. You need to ground yourself to the chassis while you work on it so that you have the same potential as it does. If this really is the only way to "reset" a GT80 Titan, then you'll need to take it to someone qualified to do it. Don't turn your expensive Titan into a brick!!!
Kind regards, David

Quote from: chc on 18-May-15, 12:07:19
If you meant EC reset, you just need to press power button for about 12 seconds.
Thanks chc,
Every bit of new information is helpful toward documenting the "undocumented" features of the Titan. But the EC reset is not the same thing that I'm talking about.
Most folks seem to be missing the subject. There are a variety of things that can happen to a notebook computer that make it impossible to turn off or restart (in the Windows "restart" sense). The most common problem is a software problem. When a turned-on notebook "hangs" or "freezes", pressing and holding the power button for several seconds will force a shut-down. Afterward, you can start the computer again and it should boot up normally---unless there is a hardware problem.
But this is not what I'm talking about.
There are two battery systems in most notebooks. There is a small non-rechargeable battery on the motherboard that provides enough power to maintain the clock and system BIOS settings. And there is a large rechargeable battery to power the rest of the computer.
When the BIOS is replaced with a newer version, the new BIOS will often be out-of-sync with the embedded controller (EC). The embedded controller affects lots of things like the cooling fans, some keyboard functions, WiFi, bluetooth, GPUs, etc. In some extreme cases, a notebook computer with a new BIOS may not turn on until the EC is reset. MSI recommends that the EC be reset any time the BIOS is replaced---it should be done immediately afterward.
How do you reset the EC? Remove the notebook's main battery. Obviously, this won't work for the Titan and other notebooks that have non-removable batteries. In this case, some notebook manufacturers provide an "EC reset" switch for some models---but I don't know if these switches disconnect the main battery completely---they may only remove power to the EC circuit. If the reset does truly disconnect the main battery from all circuits, then it is sometimes labelled a "battery reset" switch (this is the name Toshiba uses).
Evidently the Titan takes a different approach---according to chc, holding down the Titan's power button for about 12 seconds will reset the EC (I'm assuming this only works while the Titan is turned off---otherwise it would simply trigger a forced-shutdown as described above).
But this is not what I'm talking about, either. (Besides, I tried holding down the power button for over a minute and the computer still would not start up.)
The problem I'm talking about is a build-up of static electricity inside the computer. This is the same static electricity that shocks you when you touch your finger to another object after sliding your shoes across a carpeted floor. You see, notebook computers operate without a connection to electrical ground---so they can pick up a static charge more easily than "grounded" computing and electronic devices. The static charge may not be large enough to permanently harm the notebook but it may be large enough to interfere with its operation.
When can this happen? During a thunderstorm or any time the notebook is located in an environment where a lot of static electricity is present. It also happens in space because there is no "ground". As I understand it, it is a periodic source of trouble aboard the international space station.
To correct the problem, you usually need to do two things: (1) Remove the main power sources from the notebook. This includes unplugging the AC adapter and removing the main battery. (2) Press and hold the power button for 10-30 seconds to give the static electricity a path to the power control circuit where it can (hopefully) be safely discharged.
The problem with the Titan and other MSI computers with non-removable batteries, is there is no convenient way to remove the main battery. Therefore, if static electricity builds up, there is no convenient way to discharge it.
Now I can't be certain that the reason my Titan wouldn't turn on two weeks ago was due to static electricity. It was a weekend and my troubleshooting tools were limited. Perhaps the EC decided on its own to go crazy. Perhaps something in the power supply is intermittent and failed for the first time---and I'll have to wait for it to fail again before it can be identified. But the conditions for a static electrical problem were present. There had been a rainstorm that night after the Titan has been shut off. The Titan was connected via ethernet cable to an incoming cable modem and line from Comcast. And the symptoms pointed to a static electrical problem.
Until I disconnected the battery's power cable from the Titan's motherboard, my Titan was dead as a doorknob. It gave absolutely no sign of life when trying to turn it on. It was as if the power switch no longer worked.
So, to my mind, what the Titan needs (as well as all MSI notebooks with non-removeable batteries) is an independent reset switch that will allow the user to temporarily disconnect the main battery for as long as the user presses the switch. If an "EC reset" switch will do this, fine. But I don't think it will work if the power switch serves double-duty as an EC reset because the user needs to disconnect the battery at the same time he/she is holding down the power button to dissipate static electricity. I believe the Titan's power switch cannot do both at the same time because I tried it multiple times and it never helped my Titan.
Perhaps there is some other method to dissipate a static electrical build-up. If there is and it is easier to implement---then I hope it is provided in future products like the Titan.
Kind regards, David

My cooling fan won't stop kicking in on Mac Pro

Suddenly in the last week or so my cooling fan started kicking in while over the past 2+ years it has only run once or twice - now it won't stop!
I thought that it may have been due to an increase in RAM from 7G to 24G (3, 8G matched sticks) but after un-installing the 24G it was still running frequently, though not as much.
I have performed (in order) both a PRAM and SMC reset. I have also repaired all discs, reset permissions and dumped render files (I primarily use my Mac for video editing in FCP X).
I am fearing now that this may in fact be due to recent updates to Lion (10.7.3) or FCP X (10.0.3)
In an attempt to get FCP X to run better (there are many bugs in the latest update as evidenced by numerous posts in that discussion area) I also contacted NVIDIA for updates to my graphics card and was told by them that it is not compatible with Lion. I now have a Radeon card on order from the Apple store.
Any other advice?? This fan is not only an annoyance for me but as I also record voice-overs for my clients I simply cannot have it running all the time.

> I am fearing now that this may in fact be due to recent updates to Lion (10.7.3) or FCP X (10.0.3)
Only if the RAM is "defective" or "boarderline" would a new OS trigger an issue. But then someone else jumped to same conclusion when they upgraded to Lion recently and had been running Snow Leopard for awhile.
Every new OS brings some changes and some RAM will fail and fall to the wayside but the only way to know is trial and error; to get the vendor to replace and test.
Sometimes the RAM has been loosely seated. Sometimes the OS seems to be potential culprit (doesn't happen with clean install).
A USB or Firewire cable can be enough, too, even if just plugged and not attached to a powered on device.
You can even try two 8GB DIMMs and leave one out and see if process of elimination is of any value, or even boot wtih just a single DIMM. You don't need to have two or more.
But I would not mix 8GB with others, sounds like you had 3 x 2GB + 1GB, or 3 x 1GB + 4GB which would look and sound to be more iffy than your new set.
Btw, where did you get new set?

RADEON 9800 cooling fan

I have a RADEON 9800 Pro Mac Edition 256MB in my QuickSilver 2002 mounted in the AGP slot. The 9800 cooling fan is very loud (grinding sound) after a cold startup then gets quiet after it warms up. I have looked at third party cooling fans for this RADEON and I have found the Zalman v700cu and the Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer 1, Rev. 2 that seem to be compatible. From the images of these two coolers it looks like the two mounting screws that project out the back of the garphic card are very close to the lower memory slot in my QuickSilver. I don't use the PCI slot next to the AGP slot so I know the coolers will be OK there.
My question is, has anyone actually tried one of these coolers in a QuickSilver 2002 and is there enough clearance between the mounting posts on the cooler and the memory card to prevent them from touching?

ATI fans are notoriously bad (read that as cheap). You will know the fan is going bad when you hear a loud whine or grinding noise after a cold startup or during heavy use. The fan went bad on my 9800 Pro 256 after just 5 months. I had to send the card to ATI for repair - nearly 3 weeks to get the card back. The replacement ATI fan started making noise after another 90 days. I can't see doing this on a regular schedule for the three year warranty term so I replaced the stock fan with an Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer 1, Rev. 2. It's easy to install. So quiet that I can't hear it run and my computer case and power supply fans run slower and with less noise than ever before due to the Arctic fan venting warm air out of the computer.
The Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer 1, Rev. 2 installed perfectly with no modifications and minimal effort. It has a 6 year warranty. I consider this modification the best thing you can do to protect the $250 (or whatever you pay) investment you make with the RADEON card. It's better than waiting for the stock fan to fail and cause your 9800 to melt down. Technically installing the Arctic fan voids the ATI warranty but I believe I could reinstall the old stock fan if the card needs other warranty repairs without anyone noticing the switch was ever made.
So your answers are yes and yes although I never had the monitor problem you describe. The ATI card is a good choice - keep it then download and install the latest drivers from the ATI/AMD web site and do yourself a favor and buy an Arctic Cooling ATI Silencer model for your card. Install it when you start to hear the stock fan going bad. You will be glad you did.
PS - many thanks to FangSuede for his excellent advice given to me.

GT80 Titan Cooling Fans are on frequently than before

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