HD and 5X7 still photos

I am trying to help a friend with PP. She has cropped and printed over 500 photos as jpegs at 5X7 with 240 resolution. She now wants to put them into a HD widescreen project. Is there a way to do this without going back to the originals? (She doesn't want to have to put them all in order again-she already has the 5x7's in order for the timeline). Any suggestions? If she does the "scale to fit frame" will that still not look quite right? Should I recommend something simpier than PP for these slideshows? (she will end up making about 10 of these things with about 500 pics each).
Any advice appreciated.

Yes, I do understand that dpi and photo dimensions are both irrelevant in video. My hope was that including the dpi would show I had some resolution to manipulate and perhaps that would help.
The project has now been changed to SD widescreen. I have never created a widescreen project but I have been reading messages here on the forum. It appears to me that if she would resize the 1680 X 1200 (5 X 7) images to 854 pix wide (which would then make them 641 pix high) she would fill the screen and lose 161 px on the top and bottom. BUT the images should stay clear. Am I thinking correctly here? Apparently, many were shot in RAW and she has done a great deal of editing on these photos. They are primarily landscape type photos.

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IPhoto and recognizing still photos Canon DC10

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Are you shooting to the MiniSD card or the DVD? iPhoto will never recognise the DVD. If you're shooting to the miniSD card, try put that in a USB Card Reader.
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Acceptable and Quality Still Photo Resolution for HDV Documentary

I've scanned through several pages of posts on photo resolution here, but I haven't actually found a simple answer to a beginner's question. Two, actually:
1. If someone is supplying you with still photo prints for scanning and use in a documentary (shot in HDV, edited on FCP5), is there a particular size print that you should ask for? Does the broadcast venue (theatrical, TV, etc.) have any relevance?
2. If someone is scanning photos and sending you a CD with them, what are the specs (size, resolution, etc.) you should ask for? And are there "minimum acceptable" specs and "preferred, high quality" specs?
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Power Mac G5 [email protected]; 4GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.4) FCP 5 (FC Studio), Logic Express, Presonus Firebox

Having worked on several long-form historical docos with hundreds of source photo scans, I'd highly recommend getting the originals in as high a resolution as you can (at least 300 DPI), and getting the entire photo scanned. You just never know when you need to apply pans or zooms or crop into a particular area to improve the edit, and there are many simple ways to prep the selected photos for import.
The simplest is just to do the scaling & cropping in FCP. It will do a fine job of this, but if it turns out most of the photos will be static, you can waste computer resources by importing unnecessarily-large images. As mooblie pointed out, you strictly only need enough resolution to prevent scaling up past 100%, as this will create pixelated lower quality output.
The most common way to prep scans is in Photoshop, where you can scale the image to a desired pixel size very easily. I'd still leave the image at its natural frame size (as scanned), so you have the most creative choice when you are framing it in the timeline using FCPs cropping & motion tabs tools.
If you've got lots of photos and lots of pans & zooms, consider using one of the third-party tools that will help with this, such as Photo to Movie from LQ Graphics, Moving Picture from StageTools, or even the plugin for FCP I wrote to help with the docos I mentioned above. It's called Pan Zoom Pro and you can see about it and download a demo here: http://www.lyric.com/fcp-plugins/index.htm#pzp .
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I do underwater video and add still photos to the video I create. When playing the video the still shots show distorted lines in any design in the picture and as it transitions to the next photo it clears up for a split second. What is causing this?

The photos are clear for the firt instant the appear during palyback and for the 3 or 4 seconds they are on the screen any pattern or design in the photo, say a patterned tablecloth, the pattern goes wavy, distorted, and then at the last moment before moving on the photo goes clear and smooth. It looks like when the picture goes in the "freeze" mode it distorts and when releasing for the next photo it smooths out again. This is really messing up some very good underwater still shots and land photos. I'm using a transition between photos and not using Ken Burns effect. Could use some help on this. Thanks.

so. to summarize your workflwo in my own words:
you're applying 12Mpix stills to an iMovie project
(btw: what setting has the iM project…?)
iMovie doesn't do interlaced internally…
you then 'share to iDVD'
as far as we know, iM converts to some h.264 file…
iDVD has to convert that again, to finally create a standard DVD:
720x480pix, interlaced = 0.3Mpixel resolution (yes, zero.point.three )
and, you're watching via a projector - most projectors have a non-video-resolution e.g. 800x600, 1200x800:
again, scaling effects.
so, tons of scaling/resizing, tons of comversions …
a) use any graphic tool (your Mac's Preview.app?) to scale the pics BEFORE import to iMovie to your Projects resolution (1920x0180, 1280x720, 720x480); choose tiff or png as doemat, avoid jpg
=> this avoids lossy scaling effect in iM
b) if DVD is your only delivery media, set iMovie's Project preferences to your TV-Standard (PAL/NTSC)
c) from iMovie, use 'Export using Quicktime', and in its options, choose AppleIntermediateCodec as … codec
=> this exports iMovies internal timeline without lossy conversions
d) set iDVD manually to same standard as your iMproject, 25/PAL or 30/NTSC
e) stay under 60min of length to allow max. quality
f) try to find a resolution on that laptop that comes close to DVDs res; synch res of laptop with proejctor
g) consider iDVD solo to create a slideshow; avoids any lossy 'inbetween steps' due to iMovie; very limited in terms of 'creation' … creates a slideshow (with music and transitions)
h) consider to avoid the DVD process at all; export from iMovie a 'file'; use a usb-stick to transfer to playback-computer; allows HighDef! DVD is SDef only ...
to create a file whic is compatible with any computer, follow my advice here:
How to create a video for playback with Windows/XBox/PS3/… etc?
For maximum quality of stills, I would use iDVD only (disk, but SDef only);
or avoid disks at all, create a charming HDef iMovie project and transfer via stick

Still photos from a DVD

I am trying to capture and print still photos from commercial DVDs. Any suggestions of a mac compatible software that will do this. Hopefully one that doesn't cost a bizillion dollars.
greg

Hi there & welcome to the forum!
Take a Screenshot of DVD Player in OS X...
http://highschoolblows.blogspot.com/2005/11/take-screenshot-of-dvd-player-in-os- x.html
screencapture -i ~/Desktop/dvd.png

Problem exporting Premiere Pro CS5.5 projects with still photos and h264 video

I'm a longtime Final Cut Pro user and evaluating Premiere Pro for my workplace before making the switch. I have been running into several problems when I try to export raw h264 video from a Canon 5D combined with still images on a Macbook Pro. Either I receive an error in Premiere Pro saying, "Error compiling movie. Unknown error." or Adobe Media Encoder appears to continue exporting (the time elapsed bar continues to move) even though the time remaining stays frozen once it hits a photo it doesn't like. It's not always the same photo.
I've spent several days trying to troubleshoot the issue, including batch resizing all photos to 1920 wide (to match the video settings), and it hasn't work. The sequence is currently set to render in ProRes 422. I've also tried HDV 1080p30 and MPEG-4. I cannot find any consistency with the errors. Occasionally an export will work, but every couple still photos will look like green static. I've also tried batch converting the photos in Photoshop to PNG and GIF without any luck. I'd include my default export settings but I've pretty much tried it all. I'm just trying to figure out what's causing the error since the message is very vague.
Couple other notes:
There's plenty hard drive space available for export
I can export the DSLR video (h264, 1080p30) without still photos no problem
I can edit the same still photos and video in Final Cut with no problem
I have the same problem with auto-save on and off
I tried re-installing production premium, deleting the preference files and cleaning the media cache - no luck. I also tried exporting under a different user account and it wouldn't work.
This is driving absolutely crazy. I'm affraid to use PP on deadline because I don't see any issues until it's time to export. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
- McKenna

Thanks Todd. Your questions were actually very helpful. I'm using a Macbook Pro with an Intel Core i7 processor and NVIDIA GeForce GT 330M graphics card. I'm running OS 10.6.8 and have the latest updates installed.
When I disabled the GPU acceleration, I was able to render and export without a problem. The problem only occured when using the GPU acceleration and mixing h264 with still photos. It also affected both rendered previews and the final export. I'm assuming its a support issue with the graphics cards, but it would be great if you had any other ideas. I appreciate your help.

Still photos in PRE 12 and output to HD DVD for TV

Hi,
I was using Final Cut Express 4 HD on my old iMac but bought a new late 2013 iMac and learned that FCE will not run on Mavericks (and if you install it you will destroy your OS X plugin manager without any chance to repair it)!
Ok FC Pro X is far way to expensive for me right now, as I just use the app to build nicer photo slide shows. iMove has just a single track and therefore I'm already on the limits. Ok this is where PRE 12 comes into the game and so far I love what I see in the editor. But when it comes to exporting and sharing my work for Full HD TV I'm more than disappointed.
Here is what I use. I exported all my images with 1920x1080 pixels as JPG, max quality with 72dpi and they are looking great on my iMac.
When I import the stills into PRE they are OK when I see them in the editor. I switched off the still optimization feature and set the highest quality to render the preview.
When looking at the clip on my iMac in the editor is ok so far, but at full screen the images are unsharp, blurry and have ghosting and artefacts. Well I could live with that when it would only be the preview but exporting the video a DVD with Full HD the result is as the preview, images are unsharp, blurry showing artefacts and ghosting. And I can't make it better by manipulating the settiings in the DVD dialog. Maybe I'm doing it wrong!?
The only way to make my photos in the video looking tack sharp and brilliant as they are is when I use MPEG format with Full HD settings and look at the video with quick time.
Why don't I get the same result when burning the video on DVD? Any hints?
In regards to the DVD quality I had no problems with FCE 4 HD! And the images (still photos) are the same footage I used to compare the output!
Secondly I just use the PRE 12 trial version, hope that this is not the reason? The annoying "always on" banner saying that it is a trial version is already something I dislike, but what I experience and makes it even worse is that PRE 12 is crashing again and again on different steps I take, sometimes when I change a setting, sometimes when I scrub, sometimes when selecting a fade, sometimes when importing footage and other step....
With all this the disappointing quality on DVD's and the many crashes I can't find a lot of arguments right now to make the trial a full version?!
Cheers and many thanks for help!
Happy New Year!
Yogie

Yogi
First, I want you to assure that you are not bothered by pile ups of preview files, conformed audio, and conformed video files. If these files are in the default location, please check wherever they may be in Premiere Elements 12 Mac (I am strictly an Elements Windows user)....
Adobe Premiere Elements Preview Files Folder....preview files
Media Cache Folder (cfa and pek files)....conformed audio
Media Cache (.mcdb files)....conformed video
Check Edit Menu/Preferences/Scratch Disks to assure that all the scratch disk categories are directed to a hard drive save location with adequate free space to accept them.
Now for the project itself...set the Premiere Elements 12 project preset manually, using
File Menu/New/Project
PAL
DSLR
1080p
DSLR 1080p25
Before you close out of there, make sure that you have a check mark next to "Force Selected Project Setting on This Project". Then, when you enter the Premiere Elements workspace, import your source media into the project with Add Media/Files and Folders/Project Assets.
Render the Timeline and then decide if the image quality is impoved. You might explore applying a very small Sharpen effect to the images. Have the others taken you through the drill of evaluating your computer video card and its driver version?
ATR
Let us determine what we have at this stage and then we can decide if any improvement on the path to PAL DVD-VIDEO Widescreen on DVD disc.
Thank you.
ATR

Can I create a new album in the photos then delete the photo fro the camera roll and it still stay in the album if so I do I do this?

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If you are on a PC, it's a little more difficult as there is no photo app on the PC to make it easy. Save the pictures to My Pictures like you would your regular still camera. Organize into albums. Sync the albums back on via iTunes.

I have been working on a book and have 418 photos already in my book. All of a sudden I cannot access the book format to see the multiple view, spread view, or single view. I can no longer see my book although I still see the collection with 418 photos

I have been working on a book and have 418 photos already in my book. All of a sudden I cannot access the book module and clicking on the multiple view, spread view, or single view does not take me back to the book I have been working on. I can no longer see my book although I still see the collection with 418 photos under collections. What I do see is a blank template for a new book and I can't find the unfinished book I started with 418 photos. It is like the new empty template is somehow covering it up. How do I get back to the book I have been working on?

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Hi skydiver, I have ios7.4, I tried two different USB ports and it still doesn't show,up on my desktops in my computer as iPad so I can't click it. If it was there I would open and see all my photos, and YES it ask me DO I trust this computer! several tim

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http://www.apple.com/support/ipad/assistant/itunes/
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http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1591
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Acceptable File Size and Resolution for Still Photos in Keyframe Motion

Hello Hello
I know that FCE HD (as other Video Editors), will automatically fit a still photo's size to it's default capability of 720 x 480 Correct?
Well, in regard to making the best possible ZOOMS, and Pans from Still Photos, is it neccessary to re-size all your photos (from an external editor like photoshop), to a specfic size?
According to an older book for FCE, it sez that actually photos re-sized to 720x534 with a resolution of 72 are best. *The proper proportion for NTSC.
And I noticed that when I inserted larger JPG still sizes (like about a meg), on the FCE timline, and when applying Panning, or Zooms, some of the rendered images with motion didn't pan or zoom smoothly.
Is that because those file sizes were TOO large?
Well I have soooo many stills that need to be imported into this particular project that it would be a lot easier for me to just generally reduce these stills (by percentage).
And is the magic resolution amount supposed to be 72?
Because if that's the case I can re-size all my photos to 72, and try to keep the file sizes down to say 300 KB's or so.
Sound like a plan?

Thank you guys
"basically, you should try to make your images large enough so they never have to be scaled beyond 100% in the motion tab in fcp."
Actually as I mentioned some of these file sizes are very large. About 800-900 KB's - and what as a result, what I've noticed is that I actually had to DECREASE the viewing area in both the Browser Window, and the Canvas Winbow just to be able to see the whole image.
Ok - so the 72 DPI is not as important as the dimensions of the photo. But as I said I have soooooo many of these that it would take me forever to manually re-size them all not to mention the fact that re-sizing some of them (odd shapes),would throw the images out of balance.
So again I ask - if there is NO motion applied to the photo, file sizes of about 200 to 350 KB's appear just beautifully ....
BUT
If I need to PAN or ZOOM, is it ok to laod a 1 MEG sized JPG onto the timeline and start working with Keyframe?????
In fact in some cases I'm actually using these larger file JPS's (1 meg or more), so that they TOTALLLY fit the canvas window (cropping them by enlargment)
*With some clipping of the original image of course ...
Why do I do this?
So that you don't see the usual border with horizontal images, or vertical images - know what I mean?
Thanx

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Problems setting duration for still photos and transitions in iMovie '11

I downloaded iMovie 11 from the Apps Store last night and am trying to make my first movie with it today. I use still photos exclusively.
For most - but not all - I like 5 seconds for photos and for transitions 2 seconds. I do vary this on occasion and so do not check "for all photos' or "for all transitions".
I can't get these settings to work with this version of iMovie. For example, I added a photo (5 sec) then a transition (2 sec) which changed the duration time of the photo - as it should. But when I double clicked the photo, to bring up the inspector window to change the duration of the photo, nothing happened. Then I added another photo. The duration of the first photo increased to 7 seconds and nothing I do seemed to change that.
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Interesting!!
I've spent a lot of hours on this too, but I have come up with a different solution perhaps because I like to vary both the image duration and the transition duration in my movies.
Here's my process:
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-> I discovered, as you have, that all the photos have to go in before I add any transitions. This was new to me. With all previous versions of iMovie I simply added a photo then a transition then another photo one at a time. I had to fiddle with the timing adjustments, but at least I could fiddle. With this new version of iMovie I can't. Once the transition is in place, I cannot change the duration of the photo.
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Thanks for sharing your process. I will use it when the circumstances are right.

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